Hi Fulvio,
One more topic ... or two?๐
1. Shaft and blade - I assume you are referring to the propeller.
"The blade is assembled by thread?"
If it is there should be a locknut screwed tight up to propeller hub.
If there is no thread a short locking screw (grub screw) should be visible on the side of the propeller hub.
If the propeller is fixed firmly to the shaft I would leave it alone and make any adjustments needed at the inboard (motor) end. Grease the shaft and the tube and insert the shaft with a thrust washer between the prop and the tube.
Inboard adjust the motor mount and shaft coupling for as straight alignment as possible.
I also fit a thrust washer and a collet (ring with locking screw) to the shaft just in front of the tube, and adjust it to give about 5/1000 (approx 0.125mm) movement of the shaft in the tube. The collet stops the shaft sliding out of the boat if the coupling becomes loose on the shaft.
2. Motor driven by the BEC.
Sorry to disappoint you again Fulvio but that can't work.
Firstly; the BEC is only designed to provide 1, 2, or 5Amps depending on the type.
Second; there is no way to switch the BEC output to the motor. Unless you build an external relay or FET switch. Even if you did that you would have no control over from the TX. It would simply be On or OFF, with no speed control or reverse if it worked at all.
Not sure what would happen (I'm not going to try it๐), you may even destroy the ESC by connecting the BEC to the motor wiring๐ฅ
A better solution is to fit a Low Battery Alarm (a few Euros on Ebay/Amazon etc).
They can be wired to set off an audible and/or visual alarm (e.g. siren or flashing lamp).
This gives you a chance to bring the boat back before the motor stops.
Even better is an ESC that reduces power to the motor when the battery is low.
You can then bring the boat slowly back before the ESC switches off completely.
Hope this helps,
Cheers, Doug ๐
Buon Natale๐
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