Sorry shipmates but this is getting simply bloody stupid.
The alternative answers that AI is offering are getting progressively more ridiculous.
The knowledge of a quiz contestant counts for nothing with such nonsense.
One only has to choose the least daft of the options offered.🙄
In this case: Without ever knowing who William Froude was, or what his groundbreaking contribution to hydrodynamics and hull design was.
In short-
This AI is insulting our RI (Real Intelligence).
Doug,😎

Roy,
Re: "I was / am nackered I think it was the Pint Noir!"
You're not supposed to drink Pinot Noir (12.5%) by the pint!!😮🤣🤕💤
(To be read with a Michael Caine accent as in-
You're only supposed to BLOW THE BLOODY DOORS OFF!)

😎

"I am just going outside and may be some time”.
Famous last words!

😎

Looks rather like a version of a 15th century Chinese War Junk / Treasure Ship. Probably derived from the Javanese Jong, a large trading ship. Bit different from today's Junk.
See top of left column in attached pic.
Musta bin a bit top heavy, as Mary Rose and Vasa also were😮

Given that it was built by POWs they would have been building with limited resources.
And most likely from sketches made from memories of life and hobbies from better days.
A most remarkable job under the circumstances.
Just my Two Yens worth😁
Cheers All, Doug😎

Ahoy model shipmates!
Agree with previous comments.👍
Correct answer: None of the above.
AI screwed up again.🙄
Uncle Wiki got it right😊🤓:-

"SS Servia, also known as RMS Servia, was a successful transatlantic passenger and mail steamer of revolutionary design, built by J & G Thomson of Clydebank (later John Brown & Company) and launched in 1881. She was the first large ocean liner to be built of steel instead of iron, and the first Cunard ship to have an electric lighting installation." End quote.

BTW: this is also a deja vu. Second time we've had this debate.
Cheers All, Doug😎

Necessity is the mother of invention Garth👍
Nice one.
Doug😎

And GWS from Munich Phil.
Chin up old chap😁
Or, Halte die Ohren steif! As my German friends would say.
(Hold the ears stiff!🤔)
Cheers, Doug😎

Got steam up in 2😉
My favourite 3 vowel starter, ocean, got me off to a good start😀
Cheers All, Doug😎

Very odd Roy!?
How did you manage to post your query if you weren't logged in???
Using a Windows PC I haven't noticed any changes or difficulties logging in.
What are you using?
Is this perhaps another 'Dumbphone' phenomenon🙄
Cheers, Doug😎

Rock On Rockbag😀
Coming on well👍
Hope you're feeling much better now.
Cheers,Doug😎

Another deja vu!🙄

😎

So far so pretty good Garth👍
Keepa da pics a comin'😉
Doug😎

Oy vey Roy!
That's so bad it's good😂

😎

Aha! I saw the light today (13th)💡😇

😎

Agreed all👍
Correct answer is 'NONE of the above'. None of the wrecks mentioned were discovered in 1995.
But it's obvious what the AI (🙄) 'thinks' is the correct answer.
A, C and D can be eliminated immediately as they are well known and documented.
But the Whydah Gally sank in a storm in 1717 off Cape Cod. The wreck was discovered in 1984 and positively identified in 1985; ships bell and a brass plate inscribed with the ship's name and maiden voyage date.
Another example of the AI getting it's digital knickers in a twist😮🤔
Cheers All, Doug😎

P to M😉
Not exactly a question for our worldwide membership.🤕

😎

Highly useful for building wooden ships/boats, or manufacturing deck planks for steel/FG boats. 😉
Uncle Wiki says-
"A lumber edger is a device with saws used to straighten and smooth rough lumber or bowed stock by making a cut along the sides of the boards. The result of this process is dimensional lumber."

😎

Sorry Ron,
My old eyes can't decipher your emoji☹️
The site displays them so tiny.
Cheers, Doug😎

Re: "(C rating). How many times the capacity the battery can stand being pulled at any moment."
Just a note to clarify what this actually means😉
C rating is not a function of the capacity itself, usually expressed as X000mAh for marketing reasons, looks better than XAh🙄 But of the capacity in mAh expressed as Amps.
E.g. a 5000mAh (=5Ah) capacity battery rated at 50C can allegedly deliver max 50x5=250A. BUT for how long? Maybe 1.2 minutes if you're very lucky. (5/250)x60.
But at least it has a short term reserve current capability. If that helps? I don't know.
If the motor stalls a correctly rated fuse, or a high end ESC with temp/current protection should obviate such high currents being needed.
Cheers All, Doug😎
PS I also like Hobbywing QUICRUN ESCs (1060 for brushed, 16BL30 for brushless).
Their programming card makes brushless set up a doddle. No messing about with beepy de beeps😁

Très bon Hermann, great build👍
A small word to the wise if I may!
I have never been on any flight deck/helipad where the landing lights protrude so far out of the deck. (And I've been on several, including a hair raising flight through a tropical thunderstorm from Port Harcourt Nigeria out to an oil platform in the South Atlantic. Looking through a small gap in the clouds I saw a 'postage stamp' size platform way below and asked the pilot "You want to land on THAT?") I digress!😁
That protrusion would be dangerous for the flight deck crew and embarking/disembarking passengers and flight crew. High risk of tripping over them. The heli could also damage them.
All such lights I have seen on flight decks (from ground stations, platforms and corvettes to aircraft/heli carriers) are recessed into the deck with a thick glass dome flush to the deck to protect them.

Looking forward to the bottom wetting😉
Salutations, Doug😎

" by the members for the members."

Whereby all members are equal.
But some members are more equal than others.

Sound kinda familiar?
Maybe a shorter Term of Office would help. Quarterly elections?
Votes of No Confidence?

😎

"power wenches"!?😮
Wow! Wonder Women😉

😎

It IS the rudder Ron😉
Cheers, Doug😎

Oh yay oh jay! Now the questions and options are getting infantile as well🙄
'The Trouble with Tribbles'! I'm sure that most of us 'old codgers' will recognise that from Star Trek (TOS).😉
The other options are poetically prehistoric.😁
😎

Jonathan,
Such a response makes my day😀
Glad I hit the spot.
PS The bill for the therapy is in the post😁
😎

Senator Tora Canis,
" wrong end in thee wrong place...ask me how I know"
We don't wish to know that🙉 Forum benigne relinquite.
Kindly leave the forum.😁

😎

I agree with Lucky and Frankie.👍
The green nav light also gives it away, should be on the starboard side not port.
It is also showing astern instead of forward.

😎

Thanks Lew, agreed.👍

This topic has been beaten to death. No further comment on my part.
Cheers, All, Doug😎

I'm sure cos I've got a static model of her on the shelf above my PC desk😀

😎

Oh dear. I thought we had already put this topic to bed!🙄
My dear Alessandro,
I am giving you the benefit of the doubt, in that you may have some troubles / ambiguities with the translations back and forth. I will deal with the comments in your epistle in order of appearance. (Sorry shipmates but this may get a bit long! Electrically well versed readers have permission to skive off this lecture😁)

"So much so that I specified that you need to tighten the connection well and make sure there is no play."
This implies a screw connection, or worse a clip or crimp connection. ON NO ACCOUNT should these be used on high load (current) wiring.
You can never be sure of the true contact area. The smaller the area of contact the greater the chance of causing a hot spot at high currents, e.g. 25 to 50A as we have here. The current density problem!
Also these connector types are seldom (if ever) available gold plated. Thus being susceptible to corrosion in a damp (marine🙄) environment. Not to mention coming loose under vibration or due to heating / cooling cycle effects.

"If, however, you think that the fuse creates problems because the metal foil causes greater resistance (when you refer to the 1st and 3rd Ohm's laws, V=R*I, P=V*I or P=R*I* I ) because of its subtlety, then I disagree. Allow me to disagree, no pretensions on my part just to reason."
"metal foil fuse" This may be a translation problem.
A slow blow fuse consists of a straight solid wire. A quick blow fuse is a coil under tension.
"In other words, I find it difficult to believe that the greater resistance caused by the fuse foil creates such a significant Joule effect. Fuses would no longer have any reason to exist if they were capable of melting plastics before melting them."
My remarks re heating were specifically directed at the connections of the fuse holder. The fact that the fuse itself did not blow means that the current was less than 25A. But high enough to create heat in a bad connection. Say I=20A and R=0.5Ω. P=I²R --> 800W.😮

"I take it for granted that a new connector does not yet have oxide and corrosion."
'In this the most perfect of all perfect worlds.' Perhaps. But my experience in our real world is that most non gold plated connectors are already lightly corroded on opening the packet, and need cleaning before use and protecting (e.g. WD40) in use. Pull out any spade connector (e.g. auto type fuses) and see where it is dull, most of it, and where it is shiny, very little showing the few points of real contact.
"gold is preferred to copper in these cases (mobile connections), not because it is less resistive (or more conductive) than copper but because it is almost immune to oxidation and corrosion ." Both reasons actually.
"So if we're just talking about contact issues, I agree." Thankyou. That IMHO is the issue here.

"Nothing about the correct section of the cables, but I don't think that is the cause."
In this case probably not. This was simply part of my general advice on safe installations.

"Regarding this statement: "Most folks don't realize that fuses are fitted to protect wiring from overheating and causing fires. NOT specifically to protect the devices they are connected to."
Sorry but I don't completely agree with you. ... I can refer to civil electrical systems (the one in your house): fuses and circuit breakers serve to prevent fires but also "specifically" to safeguard the system (consisting of cables and various devices)."
That is exactly my point Alessandro. A house system consists of many circuits which are protected by fuses / circuit breakers of various values according to the use of the circuit; lighting, power sockets, high power 3 phase for cookers.
If a device on a power socket circuit develops a fault causing an overload the fuse or breaker on that circuit pops to prevent a fire in the cabling and the fault dragging the whole house system down. It has absolutely nothing to do with the device which caused the fault in the first place. Your example puts the cart before the horse.

"I don't know the brushless motor well enough.
I certainly know, in general terms, the operating principle. It is a direct current electric motor because it is powered by direct current ..."
NO it is not! If it was you could power it by directly connecting it to a battery (PSU).
But how? Which two wires would you connect to + and - of the source?
Or would you use two batteries in parallel with a centre tap for the 3rd wire?
Try it if you like I'd be most interested to hear how it goes.
" ... but in fact it works with different alternating currents (not sinusoidal but mostly square)."
Now you're getting it😀 Partly!
True the battery provides DC power to the ESC, but not to the motor.
The ESC receives a decoded pulse train (as you say 'almost square') from the RC receiver.
So far the same as a brushed motor setup. BUT! (There's always a BUT.😉)
In the case of a brushless motor the ESC needs instruction from the motor what to do with this pulse train. It receives this instruction, in the most common brushless motors, by monitoring the EMF feedback from each connecting wire of the motor.
As you know, when you energise (apply a voltage) a coil it generates both an electric and magnetic field. When you remove the energising voltage these fields collapse and send their energy back into the supply wires in the form of a Back EMF pulse. This tells the ESC which coil of the stator was last energised and thus which is the next one in sequence.
Other, more expensive, brushless motors have sensors built in which provide this position information. Never been down this alley, so far haven't seen any reason to, so I don't know precisely how it works but I assume that it requires an ESC capable of digesting the info from the sensor. Maybe other members can enlighten me. Never stop learning👍
"These currents that create the rotating magnetic fields are generated by the ESC (in our case) ..." The magnetic fields do not rotate. The fields are static and the coils generating them are built into the stator of the motor; in an Outrunner the inner part, in an Inrunner the outer part like the can of a brushed motor. Whichever, the magnetic fields generated by the stator coils act against the permanent magnets in the rotating part thus driving the motor round.
"I'm not sure that, in the event that one of the three cables is interrupted, the system will continue to provide alternating voltages (as you are convinced)."
I'm not sure either. But my gut feeling is that the ESC would do it's best to carry on with the feedback it gets from the remaining two connections. With considerable stuttering and loss of power. Which corresponds to the symptoms that FB reported. Be interested to hear the result of your experiment Alessandro.

Cheers all, I warned you this post could get a bit long😉
(Even though I left some detail out, such as pulse train type and coding/decoding PPM or PWM😉)
Doug😎