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September 2018: 10 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 17 people |
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HMS Munich, Ostpark Biergarten
Since: 24th Feb 2017 
South Bavaria Scale Model Boat Builders
Since: 22nd Jun 2017 Harbour
"Jessica" A Sea Scout renovation
Type: Pleasure Craft 
HMS Belfast
Type: Naval Ship 
Graf Spee
Type: Naval Ship |
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Hi John, Near the bottom of the article peak power of 0.41bhp @ 20500 rpm (!) is mentioned, so almost twenty times the power of the Supermarine at ~ 5 times the revs😲 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Martin, ALL Dumbphones and PCs (or better said the browser used on the PC) have these irritating auto correct / auto type functions. BUT they can always be switched OFF. Just look in the [Settings] of your web browser. Cheers, Doug 😎
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666 is the Devil's number! Draw your own conclusions folks 😁 Martin, every time you post something that number will increment, Cheers, Doug 😎
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"Maybe but ballast ,is ballast,is ballast. However it's achieved." Sure John, but at least a heavy battery is useful load and not 'just' ballast.😉 Have no idea what shaft power the Fuji produces (only know their excellent 35mm film😉) but the Taycol Supermarine is rated at 22.5mHP (22.5/1000HP) at 3.5A, 4000rpm. Efficiency 52% 🤔 so you have to stick twice as much electrical power in to achieve that! Sooo, given that 1HP = 745.7 Watts - And electrically P=IxV (Current x Volts) 22.5/1000HP = (745.7*22.5)/1000 = 16.778W so ~33.55W in. Thus if I = 3.5A they must have done that test / measurement at about 9.6V. The Supermarine also runs great at 12V but maybe not with max efficiency!? With a spec weight of 2&1/2 lb i don't even want to get into Power to Weight Ratio, although I measured Colin's motor at 947gm = 2.0877776229lb 😉 But then, some of the motor had corroded away As I'm currently renovating a Supermarine for Colin H. This makes me start thinking about rigging up a test jig so I can see what it actually produces!!! Always up for a challenge 😁 Got nowt else to do 😁😁 Would be useful for other motors as well if I can get it figured out😉 Happy fiddlin' folks, cheers, Doug 😎
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Soooo! How did it all turn out Richard? Where are the pics or vids of the Sea Trials??? Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Martin, Apropos mini Milling machines; this is the one I use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qffdG_d2fJ0 https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-37... Pics show using it to mill my new Sea Scout propshaft to secure the grub screws in the motor coupling. I just changed the tool holder from collets to a proper chuck. I also bought the little machine vice which clamps to the table, and the dividing head. There is also a CNC (putah driven version - ain't got that far yet, bit expensive😉) But this little job has served me well for several years now, very happy with it👍 I also use it as a precision drill press; e.g. to make the new phosphor bronze brushes for my Taycol target renovation. See last pic. Have also recently used it to make the little gearbox so I can fit the renovated Taycol Target into my ancient Billing Danish fish cutter 'Gina2'. See, I don't just do the 'Grey Fleet', sometimes I also mess with wood😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Gardener, Don't know the Sadolin stuff, I use Billing Boats stains meself, BUT whatever you use, esp on balsa, apply a coupla coats of sealer first. Then at least one or two coats of clear satin varnish; e.g. from Lord Nelson range from Holland. THEN AND ONLY then, apply your stain til you get the depth of colour you want. After that seal with matt, satin or gloss varnish / lacquer according to taste😉 That's the way I did my Sea Scout 'Jessica' renovation, see blog on this site for results!!! Coupla sample pics attached. The whole process is described in the Blog. Otherwise the balsa will soak up all your stain and still not look right 🤔 A 'preserver' as such is not normally necessary if the wood is properly treated inside and out; sealer, stain, varnish etc! Or just EzeKote resin inside. Stain no needed inside of course. Good luck and above all have fun with your endeavours. 👍 Keep us 'up to date' ('on the running' as my German friends would say; 'auf den Laufenden'!) 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS I like Danish Blue meself 😁😁 On the other hand; I wouldn't have used balsa for speedboat deck in the first place. I use a close grained marine ply 0,8 or 1.0mm. Takes the stain better and looks more realistic. Balsa is too coarse grained for stain and varnish on scale speedboats. Thick coat of paint ... OK. On the cabin roof and after deck (which I had to renew) I used 1.5mm mahogany veneer. If I had to do it again I would use a close grained 0.8mm marine ply (birch or pear) and cherry stain (also Billing) as I used on 'Jessica's deck.
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Shucks! An I was hopin' you'd build me a little 4 cylinder diesel for me to run a brushed motor as a Genny for all the lighting on my ships! Or for the diesel electric propulsion on my Type 45. Now wouldn't that be cool!?😁 BTW Some of Nick Carters tips an tricks showed me how to convert one of my tools to something that'll do what I want! So, out with the Proxxon mini-grinder😉 Cheers, Doug PS It wasn't a wrong steer cos it led me to all sorts of useful 'stuff' and above all helpful info👍
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Be more careful with your hammer then 😡😭😁 Carter don't ship outside US and Canada so I had a look at Haig and from there to Peatol! Veeery interestin'. Useful stuff. Like the tips an tricks on the Carter site though, excellent. Cheers, Doug
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Hi Martin, Reckon bushes are worth a go, can't be worse than two thicknesses of Paxolin! Thanks for the Carter tip 👍 I'll look 'em up. Cheers, Doug
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You beat me to it Colin 👍 I found those as well and zoomed 'em. Looks like a form of Hi-Drag Stockless to me. ZY-6 perhaps? https://www.google.com/search?q=anchor&client=firefox-b&tbm=... Cheers, Doug https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Stockless_anchor
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I know 😁
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That's what i was wondering Mike 😲
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BTW TJ, to paraphrase Maggie Thatcher's immortal words to the German Chancellor; "You may call me Doug"! 😉 Cheers, U No Who! 😎
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My pleasure TJ, get well soon👍 But as an ex Pat living in Germany for 30 odd years and having worked on several types of Fast Patrol Boats / Fast Attack Craft your spelling of Schnellboot is still making my hair stand on end! 🤔 BTW: DON'T cut the switch wires on the ESCs or you won't be able to turn them on! Cut the red wires in the 3 wire cables from the ESCs to the RX. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW 2: boat looks good, nice work👍 I have a couple of 1/72 kits for E-Boat / S-Boot, hope mine turns out as well as yours! 😉
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Mornin' John, agree re chromite, but still don't know what chroDite is! I only personally own the one Taycol Target. I got into this whole Taycol business while I was renovating Dad's old Sea Scout last year and decided I wanted a bit more Oomph so upgraded it to a 1000kV brushless, which gives goods results on a 3S LiPo. See the vids I've posted of the the 'Sea trials' (Lake Trials!?). So I decided to use the Target in the ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter I'm restoring and converting from static to RC. Figured the Target would cope OK with the plodding pace of a fish cutter😉 BUT, I wanted it to be reversible without cumbersome external switches or relays as recommended by Taycol / Keil Kraft in those days. After surfing around a bit a found a website where others had tackled the same problem. Looked at their solutions and refined them slightly. All I do is rectify the pulsed (square wave) signal from the ESC with a bridge rectifier (4 hi-current diodes in a bridge form in one package), apply the + and - outputs from the rectifier to the field coil so that it produces a constant magnetic field just like the permanent magnet of a canned motor. The two alternating (pulsed) outputs of the ESC are applied to the AC (~) inputs of the rectifier, which go + / - or - / + according to the command from the TX, I apply to the brush terminals just like a normal brushed motor setup. The output of the ESC is a train of either positive of negative going DC pulses. Pic 2 the positive train on the scope. Pic 3 the negative train. The larger and wider the pulse the higher and longer the voltage is applied and the faster the motor spins. So called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). The gaps between the pulses are smoothed out by the inertia (flywheel effect) of the motor, and anything hanging on it - like a prop and a few million gallons of wet stuff 😁 Hey presto, a field coil motor that runs forwards or backwards on command 😊 Main thing is simply to separate the field coil from the armature coil (i.e. brush gear) so you can control each one independently. No rocket science but highly satisfying when it all comes together and works on the pond. OK, I'll look up Mr Lynch, wasn't he the Sarge in Z Cars 😁😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi TJ, that instruction is quite correct👍 It indicates that the ESCs have Battery eliminator Circuits (BEC) which means that there is an internal circuit which 'syphons' off 5V from the main drive battery to supply the receiver via the red wire in the ESC to RX cable. The ESC itself takes it's power from the drive battery. If all three red wires are left connected this will cross couple all three BEC circuits and may well damage the ESCs. The RX only needs one power supply! 😉 In my multiple shaft boats I usually disconnect all the red leads from ESC to RX and fit a separate RX battery. Cheers, Doug 😎
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Don't remember Joe Lynch but John Bluthall was brilliant 😁😁😁 PS OK, I'll leave the shafts at 6mm, less a tiddly bit for the oil film! PPS Apropos lathe spares; I'm having a little trouble finding 6x6 tools for it. the Proxxon spares are a bit pricey🤔 Oh well, there's always the grinder! (Also Proxxon!!!)
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Hi Peter, I wouldn't use ply at all.😲 Especially not for a powerful brushless. I only bought the Krick adjustable mount so I could scan it and then make my own from 2 or 3mm aluminium, depending on how heavy and powerful the motor is. I will never use the original wooden one. It was just a 'means to an end' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Colin, my mini lathe I'm using for most of the work on your motor is a Proxxon FD150/E. Great for such stuff. Only minor drawback is that there's no auto feed. But then, you can't expect everything for sixpence!😁 So far I've been very happy with it, although it's a bit finicky with setting up the clearances on the cross table. Patience is a virtue!!!! I also have a much bigger Proxxon bought ca 20 years ago but it's seldom used now that I have the littl'n. cheers, Doug 😎 PS I'll have a look at the Oilites, may be handy in the future. But for your motor I'll make some 'bespoke' bushes - 1 Cos I love a challenge! 2 They'll have to be tailored to fit the shaft and to hide 'em inside the existing end caps. Hence 'bespoke' 😁 'Never mind the quality - feel the width'! Anyone else remember that hilarious nonsense!? Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Martin, Colin's Supermarine doesn't have a pressed brass cap. On the inside of the Paxolin frame end plates are two circular paxolin plates, on the out side a plastic (?) holder for the felt oiler pad. The whole shemozzle held together with 4 brass nuts n bolts. The slop in the paxolin plates is somewhere between 1/64" and 1/32" so I reckon it's worth fitting some decent bearings. I'm going to try and hide 'em inside the paxolin and plastic parts to preserve the 'vintage look'. Wish me luck! Cheers, Doug.
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So Colin, Last instalment for today. just finished fettling up the armature and drive shafts. Pic 1: having flattened off the ends I used a centre drill to prepare the shafts for machining using the 'live centre' on the mini lathe. Pic 2: machining the output end. Pic 3: polishing up the brush gear end, this is where you can attach your fan Colin. As shown on the micrometer I stopped at 6mm, less 2/100mm clearance, and will make the bearing bushes to suit. If you want the shafts turned down a bit more for the drive coupling and/or the fan attachment let me know Colin. I'll keep the actual motor bearing sections of the shaft as it is at 6mm to fit the bushes I'll make tomorrow. All the best, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Ain't never no not 'eard of Iolite neiver!😲 But then I'm only an igorant lectrickery engineer 😁 Learnin' fast with all this mechanical magicery! All good fun folks, and MOST of it actually woiks!😊
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Thanks Martin👍 Funny thing is I can't find any reference to such a metal anywhere! Are you sure it's not ChroMite? Anyway; I'm sure it will make superb bearings for a Supermarine😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Peter, see attached pic for adjustable mount suitable for 400-480 size motors! I have one, but only used it to scan the parts so I can scale it for various size motors! 😉 If the size is right for your motor buy one from Krick, delivery always within 3 to 5 days. otherwise scale the pic to the size you want, print it and use it for a template to make your own. Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Colin, sintered PB would be my first choice. Let me see how this mysterious Chrodite turns out. I'll let you know. Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Mike, Suspect that Martin's steam powered computer can't display the thumbs up, so it shows a default square instead. Where the 'green' came from I've no idea! Cheers, Doug 😎
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Hi Boaty, The Taycols have fascinated me as well, ever since I dug the Target out of the Sea Scout my Dad built in the early sixties. I blogged my renovation of that and the conversion to run with a modern RC system and presumably that, and the converter boards I built for Martin (Westquay), is what triggered Colin to ask me to have a look at his Supermarine. How could I resist!? 😉 The 'smell of something electrical' is the ozone gas caused by the prolific sparking of the Taycol metal to metal brush / commutator combination. The other source of Ozone is on the coast wherever there is a strong surf! I agree, a nostalgic smell, which unfortunately disappears when the converter board is attached to make it run with a standard brushed ESC. The diode bridge kills almost all the sparks. 'Almost' so the usual suppression capacitors are still recommended. 0.1µF across the brush terminals, 0.047µF from each terminal to the motor can, or frame in this case. Earth to prop shaft tube as well if possible. The motor may not disturb the on-board electronics of your own boat, if using 2.4Gig, but could still affect anyone nearby using 27 or 40Megs. The power density of spark transmitters (e.g. unsuppressed E-motors, peaks in the upper HF bands and diminishes to almost zilch in the UHF bands. I.e. approx 300 MHz upwards. Like me and other submariners for instance; 2.4Gig is useless for subs cos it don't go underwater. Cheers, Doug 😎 But here! BTW Boaty: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
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Evenin' Colin, Thanks for the offer. I'm going to use some stuff the Martin sent me, called Chrodite apparently, although I can't find any description or reference to Chrodite anywhere! Looks like brass with an extra ration of tin. Supposedly harder wearing. Anyway, stator and frame spacers etc are now finished.👍 So after feeding the inner man I'll start measuring up for the bushes and see what I can do about tidying up the drive shafts. Have just sorted out a 'Live Centre' for the mini lathe which should help. I want to hide the bushes inside the original Paxolin cards and the external end plates which contain the felt oiling pad. So ball races are out of the question unfortunately; too large diameter and too thick 🤔 Needle roller bearings would be nice, but I ain't got none that small😭 (Nah, admit it Doug you ain't got none at all, they're way too expensive😭) Amused myself today polishing up all the brass nuts and bolts! Confucius he say "Polishing nuts - very painful" 😁 Weather should be good for spraying tomorrow so I might fire up the compressor and give my PTB a blast of Pacific Green. 😊 Cheers All, Doug 😎 BTW: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 Oops! This doesn't belong here!🤔
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Ain't got no 'Alfords in Germany 😭 But the hull is looking good Neville,👍
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Evenin Pete, Here's link to a Harbour tug site with more pics, including work deck and inside the wheelhouse. Cheers, Doug 😎 http://www.danwalker.co.uk/Harbour_Tug_html/tuginfo.html
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