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Model Boats Website Team
March 2018: 9 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 13 people October 2017: 9 people September 2017: 15 people August 2017: 10 people July 2017: 4 people
Servus Peter, yes it is. My Hood is also 1/350 but Trumpeter. Both kits look pretty well detailed but I've also bought some PE, metal props and of course the wood decks. Also have Titanic, Ark Royal, Prince of Wales and USS Enterprise in the same scale in the stash. I should live so long! Flat's bustin' at the seams already - no chance for 1/200 versions 😲 Ciao, Doug 😎
Round off the edge? Difficult to believe that they'd deliberately add a piece to protect one thing but endanger another 😲 Presumably it was to prevent the line chafing the painted caprail and was considered expendable and replaceable. Looks like unpainted wood in the picture. Bolted on? Happy Capping 😁
Hi Steve, Great! Worth all the searching, waiting and effort 👍 A word to the wise! Don't rely completely on the self-sticky back! I made the experience with my Graf Spee that it tends to lift at the edges, and always in the most awkward places to get to 😤 - Thanks 'Murphy'! Recommend gluing round the edges with a medium thick gluper-sue!! Or sealing with a thin type if already fixed on! For my Flower Class, PoW and Bismarck & Co I shall stain the wood decks with Jotica Oak and then seal with Lord Nelson Sanding Sealer, as I also used on my Sea Scout. Followed by Lord Nelson spray satin varnish. BEFORE I fit it to the ship!! I am also going to refurb the decks of my Belfast cruiser and Graf Spee the same way. Keep on blogging, cheers Doug 😎 BTW: loved the antipodean 'deck' care instruction!! 😲😉 Would have loved to have been a 'fly on the wall' when your Missus found it! Can almost imagine the giggles 😁
Thanks Boatshed👍. Yep, after consultation here on the site I've decided to 'Go For Gold' pin-striping. Never attempted that before, hope I don't screw up the hull 😲 Sea Trials have been postponed due to snow and sub-zero temperatures again 😡 Soon as it warms up I'll be off with TX and cam! Oh yes, and perhaps the boat as well😁 PS: Have some gold enamel (14ml tin) so will fire up the compressor and use my smallest air brush nozzle ~0.03mm! Out of practise so will try on scrap wood / gloss photo paper first!!!! 😉 Many thanks to all for the very encouraging responses 😊😊 All the best, Doug 😎
Many Thanks MT, 👍 You're right! I've already marked out the 'hatch' on some 1.5mm mahogany to match the roof. Have to think about the surround, i.e. have a rummage through the bits box! But I reckon you're right again, it would look better with some sort of frame. Still haven't figured out what to do with the cockpit, or even what scale crew I should be looking for ... Help!😲 Re Cabin roof detail .. That's it for now, until I start fiddling with mast and lights an' such 😉 What did you want to know? I've got a ship's wheel ca 1", some chrome deck fittings and Skydive has given me some inspiration regarding the 'Pulpit' rail, apart from that ...... Ciao, Doug 😎 Just remembered; I've started cutting out some 1.5mm mahog strip to make the wooden handrails on the roof. More later 😊
Hi Mark, here's the link to the manufacturer website. http://www.kwasny.com/en/products/ Forgot to mention, the gloss white I used is also from them, from the 'belton' series. The Primer Filler and Protection Laquer are from the 'Auto K' series. Don't know if they can send paints to UK🤔 Maybe they have a British distributor? look forward to pics of the Puffer 👍 Doug 😎
Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car paints I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. If you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.
Mornin' Donnieboy, Thankyou😊 That was just the first phase of the hull job, see above for the latest instalment! You might be right about the white 👍 Light blue may not stand out enough though? Have been pondering gold? Ciao, Doug 😎
Magnificent, beautiful work, as ever👍 Do you ever sleep??? 20ft? How do you know? Did you follow it down with a tape measure? 😁 My Akula sub has a big tank and about half a pound of electronics in it to control the diving 😉 I will set it to max 2m (6 feet or so)! Happy Tin Bashing, cheers Doug 😎
Sooo ... Happy with the cabin and main deck so onward and upward with the hull. At a previous stage the hull was already sealed, primed and two coats of gloss Royal Blue, or at least what passes for Royal Blue in Germany - seems a little light to me but I like it anyway. Over-spray from other operations was sanded off with a 600 grit sponge. This revealed a few imperfections around the bow that needed sealing (EzeKote) and re-flattening. No one's perfect!😉 These areas were re-primed using a primer-filler from the pro auto branch, flattened off with 1000 and 1500 W&D and the whole hull given a quick blast of Royal Blue again and flattened with 2000 grit wet. Pic 1. The finishing coats were then applied: 3 coats blue and 3 coats protective lacquer (contains a UV filter😎). Flattening with wet 3000 plus liquid soap between each coat. Finally cutting polish and finishing polish, as for cabin roof and main deck. Polishing might give her an extra knot or so, scale of course😊 Results of all this can be seen in pics 2-6. After removing all the masking tape full effect is shown in pics 8-10. Minor Arrrgh!: the masking tape on the main deck had been on too long and the white on the cabin walls had hardened, so when I removed the tape some paint came with it 😡 No sweat! I'll trim the cabin with a mahogany moulding 😁 BTW: the W&D used here are all Tamiya sanding sponges. Not the cheapest sort of W%D but I'm so impressed with how they work and their longevity that I've acquired a modest stock of grits from 240 to 3000😉 Only slight disadvantage; it's virtually impossible to get old colour out of them, unlike W&D paper, so you need new sponges for a new colour! E.g. I didn't want to use sponges I'd used on the blue hull for the white cabin walls!! Big advantage: you can use them wet on raw wood without staining the wood black! So, that's how I've spent the last two weeks, what have U lot been up to??? 😉 Happy painting people, cheers Doug 😎
Hi MT, the 'common' supply lines could be used for running lights, which all come on together, via a tiny distribution board (e.g. Vero Board) set into the cabin roof. I'm contemplating a similar arrangement for my Sea Scout. In your case just make sure that there are no hinges / pivot points in the line. I.e. solder an extendable loop of wire to the last element of your lifting mechanism and connect this to the distribution board. If you want to fit separate roof mounted searchlights etc it gets more complicated, but doable I think. More power to your innovation, cheers Doug 😎
Plasticard! 😲 That's cheating 😁 but I can more than appreciate why, being in the middle of renovating a 60s built wooden boat! I also separated the bridge and deck houses on my destroyer to hide various switches and sockets👍 BTW: if you're using LiPos DON'T CHARGE THEM IN THE BOAT PLEASE!!!😡 Charge 'em in a LiPo Safe bag! Cheers Doug 😎
Hawsepipes Old Chap, Hawsepipes! 😁 Pronounced hawse(r)pipe. Build is coming on fine, very tidy work 👍 The weights you use look extremely familiar 😉 Did the same with the cabin roof for my Sea Scout reno. Carry on Blogging, cheers Doug 😎
Sorry the advertised Flash Gordon reel has gone 'walkies' so you'll have to make do with this boring description of how to occupy a day or three and stink out the house!😁 After the eventual success with the cabin roof I continued with the main deck using essentially the same process. First I had to extend the planking (engraving) from cabin leading edge back to the transom. Dad had only done the foredeck. Pic 1 shows starting point. AKA Square One! Pic 2 after initial staining, pseudo planking and sealing. Plank engraving was done with a fine hardened steel scriber / centre punch and a steel rule clamped at 7mm centres. Rule was aligned so that the wood grain pushed the scriber against it. Don't ask how I realised that that was the way to do it (minor Arrrgh!)😡 Anyway, worked out in the end. I had started with cherry wood stain but it came out too bright red so from Krick I obtained some Jotica mahogany stain (also some Oak stain for the decks of my Prince of Wales and Bismarck - but that's another pair of Sagas to be.) Using basically the same process as for the cabin roof: two sealing coats, two matt varnish primer coats, two gloss varnish coats, two protective lacquer coats, polishing with cutting polish and top gloss polish, and lots of patience and elbow grease (this time an Italian Lugana😉) pics 3 to 5 show the result. I'm 'appy with that 😊 Note: to remove build up of sanding residue from the 'planking caulking' I had to resort to an old toothbrush or nail-brush from time to time. The sponge couldn't hack it. The aft deck 'hatch' is still the temporary bodge-up I made 25 years ago to quickly get the boat going for my daughter. Think the ply (ca 4mm) came from the back of an old bureaux! Haven't decided yet whether to make the new one from the same mahogany as the roof or thin ply and stain like the main deck. Suggestions welcome please. After the deck time to turn my attention to the cabin walls, looking pretty shabby and full of over-spray - pic 6 😲 Step 0: masking off, pics 7 & 8 'All Dressed Up and Nowhere To Go'🤔 Step 1: mucho sanding starting with 180 grit and working through to 600 ensuring removal of all traces of blue as I wanted the final finish to be Arctic White (not Ice Blue!) Step 2: two sealing coats, flattening with 600 grit. Step 3: spraying with Revell white primer, not impressed, gave a rough dusty finish🤔 Step 4: sand off Revell muck, flat back with 1000 and 1500 grit sponges, respray with two coats of pro white primer, flattening with 1500 and 2000+ soap respectively. Much better 😊 like the proverbial baby's ...! Step 5: two coats of gloss white, same make as the primer!!!, flattening with 3000 grit sponge, wet + a drop of liquid soap. Step 6: two coats of protective lacquer as with the varnish. Flattening with 3000 and soap between coats only. Interesting effect with this lacquer and the paint (as opposed to the varnish); it seemed to 'melt and fuse' with the paint surface and smooth it out.😊 Just had to be careful not to apply too much at once in case it all ran down and took the paint with it! Step 7: finishing with cutting polish and anti-hologram polish. Results: pics 9 - 11. Final effect makes it look and feel like plastic or fibreglass, almost forgot that there is wood underneath😁 Next in this theatre "Hi Ho Silver Awaaaayyyy!" (Sponsored by KiOra!) or 'I'm gonna finish this hull if it kills me!' (sorry Flash reels got lost in the post😡) Cheers Doug 😎
Cross my palm with silver!!! (Just call me Fagin😉) Labour and materials free of charge. Travel expense only will be charged: 'At Cost'! Business Class of course😁😁 Before I started on that little exercise I spent an hour or so cleaning, oiling and adjusting the set screws! The actual work only took about 15 or 20 minutes😲
Evenin' MT, Thanks👍 Yep I know blooming from my car restoration days. Causes a dull satin effect with some whitish fogging 😡 That's not what happened here, suddenly a patch of yellowish spots appeared under the gloss!😭 Only thing I can think of is that with the last flattening with 3000 grit I used a drop of liquid soap to lubricate the sanding sponge, gives that almost glass finish. Maybe some soap residue was still there and the next lacquer coat reacted with it? The soap is a trick I learned during car repairs. Of course then I could wash it all off with a big sponge and chuck a bucket of water over it! Not such a good idea with a model wooden boat🤔 Re 'Your skins' 😲 I used mahogany 'because it was there' and I suddenly had a picture in my mind what it could look like (Riva style😉) if I could do the job right! I'm pretty happy with how it eventually worked out 😊 Not sure that a mahog roof fits the image of an RAF boat? and painting it would be a shame 🤔 But if you do decide to use it you may have more luck with 0.5mm, mine was 1mm+. What are the 'existing skins'? Re clothing: I didn't do that, didn't want to risk obscuring the wood grain on the outside and the inside I had sealed with two coats of EzeKote anyway. Cloth would have been superfluous. But if you're going to paint the roof anyway then - why not? Would give strength and rigidity. Thicker ply? More than 0.5 / 0.6mm and you may have the problem I had with the compound curve!!! Cheers Doug 😎
Typical of Aeorokits the cabin roof skin was made of two thin pieces of ply < 1mm. Over the 50 years or so the overhang corners had started to curl up and crack 😲 Pics 1 & 2 show the 'off the shelf' condition after 25 years of neglect 🤔. First I tried to correct this by soaking in hot water and flattening under a car battery (flattens most things😉). So far so good. Then some super glue in the cracks and back under the battery. After a day or two it just curled up again. Ho hum! Pour a glass of wine and back to the thinking board. Seconds Out - Round Two! Thought, OK make new pieces from the 0.6mm ply I still have and paint it - then my eye fell on some 1mm mahogany sheet (Ouch 😭). Tried to make the whole roof skin in one piece of this but the compound curve defeated me. The skin was steamed and soaked in hot water and clamped across the roof frame. Next morning - Arrrgh! Had started to crack along the centre line 😭 More thinks!! Carefully cut down the middle and glued and clamped the separate pieces; pics 3&4. Getting the two pieces to match in the middle was a tedious ***!!! Pic 5. Then mucho sanding. followed by 2 coats of Lord Nelson sealer, sand back with 600 grit sanding sponge. Then two coats of Lord Nelson matt varnish, sanding with 1000 grit in between. then two coats of Lord Nelson gloss varnish, sanding with 2000 grit in between. Pic 6. So far so good, pic 6. 3rd coat of varnish and - Arrrgh 2! 😡 Pic 7. No idea why! Sand off and start again, pic 8 😭 Treated each side separately, pics 9 & 10 and flatted off with 2000 grit. Then applied three coats of clear protective lacquer, sanding with 3000 grit between coats. Finally cutting back with auto paint restorer / cutting polish and finally polishing with anti-hologram finishing polish. Pic 11. Now I'm happy 😊 Pic 12. Only took a week 😉 Next week in this theatre - "I love you too Flash but we've only got 15 minutes to save the world"! or 'Will I ever get this hull finished?" 😎