"I hope they all paid for there ticket LOL!!"
I'm sure they all did Martin 👍
BUT, all with teeny weeny weeny Yen notes 🤔
😁 😎

15ft !? What takes so long Pete?
Better tell the helmsman to go on a diet 😁
Which reminds me-
Caught sight of myself in the hall mirror today and thought
Hmm, looks like I could use to lose something!
PREFERABLY THE MIRROR!😂🤣
On that happy note, G'night all, Doug 😴😴

Hi EdH,
"The LiPos I use are 4400s at 12.6v fully charged."
I take it you meant 4400mAH, cos 4400s would be 16.28kV (nominal!)
Please please tell me who makes 'em cos I want some shares in that company😁

Must look up Eflite, never 'eard of 'em! Sound interesting.

BTW: What format are your videos?
What comes after the . in the file name?
Happy refurbing, cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Mike,
👍 Then any ol' 5A switch will do, relay or FET output.
The dual 10A job from Action will give you a second option as well😁
Yes, the fuse is an absolute must!
Contrary to popular opinion it's not there to protect the load device, but to stop the wiring bursting into flames and destroying the whole boat / plane or whatever!🔥😭
Have fun,
Cheers, Doug 😎

I say chaps! Looks like a few of the ladies forgot something when they got up that morning!😮🙈 All over tans!? 😁
Nice one Steve👍
😎

So you should be getting on apace now Marky,
Chop chop!😊
晚安 😎

"Everyone else seems to be too far away............. "
I'm soooo alone, oh woe is me 😭
Know the feeling Red 😉
Except here, amongst kindred spirits👍
"You'll never walk alone!" 😊
Cheers, Doug 😎

"hopefully its maiden voyage will be this summer. "
Looking forward to the vid Michael 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi EdH,
Oh dear, you've got a job on there🤔
Even worse than my Sea Scout restoration, originally built by my Dad around the same time as your Crash Tender👍 See Build Blog 'Sea Scout 'Jessica'' here for details of my renovation and upgrade!
I wonder if your 950kv motor will be 'man enough' for the job!? Only one!?🤔
Would be nice to see it upgraded to two or three shafts👍
My 24" Sea Scout needed a minimum of a 1000kv motor on a 35mm 3 blade 1.4 pitch prop and a 3S LiPo to get on the plane.
See here for sea trials and test report.
https://model-boats.com/gallery?q=Sea%20Scout
Oops! I turned a Broads cruiser into a sport fisher😁
Your boat is considerably larger and heavier!?
I wonder if your 50mm prop may simply overload the motor and just draw more current without delivering any more performance?
I'm sure Rob can help with the motor / battery combo👍
Looking forward to your progress reports.
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://model-boats.com/gallery?q=Sea%20Scout

🔗

Mornin' Michael,
First thing I do when deciding what RC switch to buy (or build) is to run a test to determine the max continuous current the switch must handle for the load I have in mind😉
Second; is the control element on the TX a simple ON/OFF switch or a three way ON/OFF/ON switch? The latter giving the possibility to control two special functions😊
From your query "or do I need a relay type ?" I construe that the Turnigy switch uses FETs for the switching output.
Personally I generally prefer encapsulated relays for such purpose as it eliminates even the small voltage drop across the transistor and reduces heating effects when operating high current loads. Which takes us back to the first thing I do😉
Using encapsulated relays eliminates the contact corrosion which plagued the early open relays😊
If your TX has (or can be retrofitted with) a three way switch I can heartily recommend the Action Electronics P91 Dual 10Amp switch, which would give you the option of a second fun function😁 Data sheet attached. Get 'em here -
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p91-hi-load-twin-switcher.ht...
OK, so it uses FETs not relays, but they seem to have very low ON resistance and I've never had heating problems with them👍
Cheap alternative, which needs a bit more work and hull space, would be a servo with two micro switches mounted on top. Check the current capability of the microswitches before you part with the spondulucks!!
See attached pic , from my Sea Scout as dug out of the cellar after 25 years neglect! One microswitch was connected to a piston pump!
The other to a siren, both of which were experiments but did sterling service as kiddy's fingers deterrents when the boat was on the water close to shore or on the table next to the lake!😁
Looking forward to the action vid😊
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p91-hi-load-twin-switcher.html

🔗

"As it's snowing at the present time!"
You just HAD to go and mention SNOW didn't you ED!
Half hour after you posted that it started snowing here ❄️😠
Mind you, I was pretty much expecting it cos it's been clapping like the snowers all day south of Munich. Made the guys with the snow cannons on several Alpine sports sites look a bit silly😊

On a more serious note (ME! Serious? - You've got to be joking!😂🤣)-
Be careful using 'Light Grey paint' as a primer!
There's a reason (or two) why primer is primer and top coat is top coat!
Primer is designed to stick to and bond with various substrates.
Especially on hard 'smooth' surfaces it provides a stable bonded layer for the top coat to stick to.
To this end it usually has a filler element of finely ground chalk powder or similar which gives the gloss / matt top coat something to grip on.
There are various formulations designed for metal, wood or plastics etc etc.
Including the Etch types which 'eat' into the substrate for extra grip.
Molecular bonding I guess, like in new car spraying with the help of electrostatic attraction!
Using 'ordinary' paint as your first coat you run the risk of areas lifting off under any stress (knocks and bangs) 😭 Fingers crossed for you🤞 At the very least use a matt paint as it has a surface finish more like a primer paint.
BTW: Most paints I have ever used recommend not storing or using below 20°C 😮
BTW 2: Please open those blinds for the next photo session! More light would help reduce the grainy effect in your photos 😉
For most of my posted photos I use the ironing board 🙄 under a couple of ceiling mounted spot lights☀️☀️
Build going well though👍, so I look forward to 'stereo Sea trials' next spring; Brooklyn and Smit in tandem😊
Cheers, Doug 😎

Dat's what I thunked Ed😉
Hang a P62 Quad switch on one of your spare TX stick channels and you'll have a total of 8 special functions available using 3 TX channels😁
Should keep you busy for a day or two rigging up that lot😂
Best regards, also to Jenny.
Good night, 💤💤💤, Doug 😎
BTW: If you use a 10K pot instead of a three way switch you can use it to drive a servo or an ESC, e.g. for bow / stern thrusters, cranes, winches ...... 😊

Wow!
"5 coats of full strength Eze-Kote!" 😮
Your boat must be bomb proof now!
Don't think I ever used more than three.
I found that diluted it took longer to dry, logical as more water in it!
And best not to dilute more than 20%.

BTW: Re your query "How many coats of Jotika wood stain"
Guess that depends on how dark you want the final effect.
I used 3 coats on my Sea Scout.
Be sure to let each coat dry thoroughly before applying the next one.
Otherwise it may smear and smudge and produce a very uneven finish.
Don't ask how I know 😠 Didn't use enough patience!
When done and real dry seal it with matt, silk or gloss varnish to taste😋
Cheers, Doug 😎

Mon plaisir mon chère Amiral😁
😎

Ed,
Here's something for starters (got some second wind 🌪️ tonight😉), suitable for the two channels you've fitted with the three way (ON/OFF/ON) switches.
It's a two function switch to hang on one RX channel and handles up to 1Amp loads.
Action Electronics module P44 from Component Shop, data sheet attached.
I have a couple, no problems at all. Someone recently posted he had problems with Component Shop, I never have and all the modules worked as advertised😊

Here's the link to the source where you will also find a 300mA version, P69, which could be used for LED lighting circuits, and a 10Amp version, P91, for heavy loads.
https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches....
There's also a 4 Function 1Amp version, P62, which you could use with a TX stick that you ain't using for gas or helm.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS No, I don't have any shares in either Component Shop or Action Electronics😁
I just like their modules cos they work and are compacter and probably cheaper than I could lash up myself.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/switches.html

🔗

So far so very good Phil👍
Scale? Looks a big beastie😮
Kit or scratched?
Being a naval ship fan I'm full of curiosity and questions😁
Cheers, Doug 😎

Thanks for the Heads Up Pete,
Unfortunately a bit short notice for Sunday☹️
Also the only concert in Munich is at the Muffathalle, one of Munich's smaller venues, and usually standing only. Not so good for an ol' codger!

@ V. Admiral Ed,
Sorry Ed ran out of steam last night 🤔💤 and I'll be busy tomorrow so I hope you can wait 'til Sunday when I'll have more time to get some stuff together.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Nice one Bill👍
Might have a go meself one day, had the plans for yonks.
For the Springer novices-

here's how to build one
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DI1exv2TgE
and here's how to sail one😁
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn6LXZ-5g4o
and how to build a mega version😮
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVgCRGyUWnc
Happy 'Tugging' Gents, and of course Our Welsh Lass if she's so inclined😉
Basic plans attached.
Cheers, Doug 😎
(I must write out 500 times
'I must not get sidetracked when I'm supposed to be posting about something totally different'! 🤔) RC Function decoder/switches follows 😌

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DI1exv2TgE

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zn6LXZ-5g4o

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVgCRGyUWnc

🔗

▶️

Actually Mark I was referring to the original Dickens character!
David Copperfield an' all that? 😉
Strangely I don't have any UH albums, quite liked Lady In Black though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0H48bpJziQ
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0H48bpJziQ

🔗

▶️

Why pray thank-you kind Sirs! (blush blush😌😊😉)
(My best Uriah Heep act😁)
Always good to get some feedback, positive or negative!👍

Ed, So that's covered the TX end.
Later this evening / night I'll post some solutions for the RX end.
I was faced with this problem with my 1/72 destroyer some 30 years ago, when commercial decoder switches were as rare as rocking horse droppings, so I built my own 4 function decoder to make use of the otherwise redundant AUX pot on my TX.
BTW: instead of one of the switches you can use a small 10K pot to give you an additional proportional channel. With a 4 function decoder at the RX end this gives you 4 EXTRA FUNCTIONS😊 Some years ago I did a similar MOD on my Graupner MC-10 TX to give me 2 extra switch channels divisible into two functions each, and 2 extra proportional channels divisible into 4 functions each as above. Details later!
Nowadays there are some excellent and simple solutions on the market, and cheaper than that expensive relay you mentioned to me Ed 👍
More later,
Cheers, your ever so 'umble (🙄) Fleet Admiral servant, Doug 😎
😁😉

Hi Kevin,
"The purpose of having left hand and right hand props installed on a twin screw vessel is in order to stop one propellor sucking water away from the other, therefore making one of the props inefficient by starving it of water that it needs to develop thrust. "
Well, they say you learn something new every day.
But I'm not sure that the above is a learning experience!
I've never seen that postulated in any analysis of single versus twin screw performance for high speed naval craft. Including those done by the USN Design Bureau. Which prop would under which circumstances 'suck' water away from the other?
The main reason for using opposite prop rotation on a twin screw setup is to cancel out the torque reaction of each screw on the hull (regardless of inboard or outboard rotation for ahead). This effect is even more noticeable on models as they don't have the mass inertia of their big bruvvers😉
I do agree with you though that inboard rotation should be used especially if you have twin screws with a single rudder. Like most WW2 destroyers for instance.
USN calculations and practical trials showed that for twin screw small ships; such as Fast Attack Craft, FPBs, Corvettes etc, with twin rudders that outboard turning screws gave a minimal advantage in manoeuvrability when the rudders were set slightly inboard of the shafts.
Since USS Crocket was a Gunboat (which would now be called an FAC) capable of 50 knots and seems to have two rudders it would seem logical to make the screws outward turning on drspock's model.
Cheers, Doug 😎

"You can use tank steering as the device has two speed controllers in built, but you need to have two channels for this i.e. One channel for each motor."
True - Mode 1. But why waste an RX channel when the built in rudder mixer gives you excellent manoeuvrability anyway
You do normally connect two channels from the RX to the P94 board (Modes 2-4) BUT; one for the rudder and one for the two ESCs.

To avoid any further confusion regarding the P94 board attached is the 'official' data sheet describing the various operating modes available; including reversing the inner motor on hard rudder commands. So spinning on your axis should be possible, depending somewhat on the length to beam ratio of the boat.
But then destroyers aren't built to do that anyway 😁
Mind you, I'm gonna try it with my 1.35m 1/72 H class destroyer; 135x12cm 😉
An' I'll be using the P94 to do it.
I agree with Pete (our 'Rooky😮' Lieutenant) the P94 is the simplest way to get the best of both worlds - if not the cheapest!
But add up the price of two ESC's and a Mixer Board and you won't be far off the P94 price anyway. Maybe above it🤔
Cheers, Doug 😎

Glad you're happy with them Steve 😊
Looking forward to seeing them in action 'clothed' with colour👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Yep, a 'mine of info and fun' Phil😉
Glad you like it👍
Just watch out that you don't spend all day and all night browsing ...
and forget to build something😮
You don't have to be slightly crazy to be here - but it helps a little🤣
Cheers, Doug 😎

"Oh Sh..............ugar!"
All's well that ends well Rob 👍
Bit puzzled by your measurements though; 0.0023 thou, 0.0001 thou!?😮
Pretty thin😉
😎

Hi Zdenek,
Welcome back😀 Was wondering what you were up to!
Your usual excellent and meticulous work I see 👍
I took the liberty of correcting your description of the ship😉
A cut and paste error I guess!
HMS Tyne is a River Class Offshore Patrol Vessel (OPV) built by Vosper Thornycroft for the Royal Navy and commissioned in 2003. Lead ship of a class of three, Batch 1.
I recognised her immediately cos the company I used to work for did the communication systems for the class and I've been on this vessel😉
Easily recognisable are the three HK014 VHF/UHF antennas, two on the starboard boom one to port, and the STA type HF rod antennas, with the ATU in a box at the base, at the rear of the bridge deck / gantry around the funnel😊
Looking forward to your sea trials video👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW Thanks again for the Tyne plans that you sent me a couple of years ago.

"Paint sprayers use an infrared heater to help cure the finish I believe."
So do I Rob, either IR or a 300W halogen lamp.👍
The latter helps to see what I'm doin' as well 🤓
Cheers, Doug 😎

Sounds good to me Ron👍
Thinks! If you use white decal paper 'all you have to do'🙄 is match your print background colour to the hull colour!
That's what I couldn't manage with the royal blue hull of my Sea Scout 🤔
But with a black hull it should be a bit easier.
Let us know how you get on.🤞
Cheers and G'night from Munich, Doug 😎

Hi Nod,
Some 5 months ago we pointed you in the right direction.
Since then no news☹️
Did you realise your project?
If so some feedback would be appreciated.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Thanks for the 'heads up' Phil👍
It irritates me a little when we take the trouble to find answers to such queries and then get no answer whatsoever 😠

Er PPS,
Forgot to mention Ron 😌-
You will need to first paint a block of white on the hull where you want to apply the decal prepared as described in my previous post!
Uvverwise you'd end up wiv black on black! Oops 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎