JP,
I'm sure that your humour is surpassed only by your SARtorial elegance 😁
I'm wondering; are perhaps you and Cash both Sons of the American Revolution?
Or do you just want to submit a Suspicious Activity Report?
..... 😁😆
😎

Certainly was up mine Bill, although I'm by no means a barge fan as such.
An extremely well written and humorous account of an 'unintentioned' but nevertheless ultimately successful build.
I nearly fell off my chair laughing when I got to the episode in the doctors waiting room!!
😂🤣🤣🤣😂
😎

We know you'll figure it out 'Jonah' 😁
Say Hi when you get spat out again!🤞
If you need any help (which somehow I doubt) re mini/micro motors & RC gear let me know.
I've got loads in my stash and specs / sources in pdfs and links in my archive.
SFSG with the sticking.👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Brubaker,
(AKA Robert Redford?? Great film 😀)
Ref RC Frequencies, check this out.
https://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-frequencies-uk.html

or here for the official version with all the government blurb.
https://www.ofcom.org.uk/spectrum/radio-spectrum-and-the-law...

Scroll to the bottom (past the blurb🙄) and click the 'What frequencies are available' box.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: For the record; from my Bookmark archive.

https://www.rc-airplane-world.com/rc-frequencies-uk.html

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https://www.ofcom.org.uk/spectrum/radio-spectrum-and-the-law/licence-exempt-radio-use/licence-exempt-devices/Radio-controlled-models

🔗

Hi Spock,
Nice one👍
All you need now is a synchronised belch of smoke.🔥🌪️
Ran across this article in Model Boats mag showing how to do that.
Needs a bit of basic machining but nothing too complicated.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Some good stuff you're hatching out there Rick 👍
Especially like the striped planking.
Shame though that you had to cover up all that nice woodwork in the bulwarks with filler🤔🤔
Cheers, Doug 😎

I reckon the majority of us are in that situation Bill 🙄🤔
My STASH has most probably reached the SABLE stage.
Stash Accumulated Beyond Life Expectancy!🤔
More power to your glue toobs folks 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Good choice 👍 Slàinte Mhath Colin😋
Superstition or???
😎

I'll drink to that Fleet Nerys 👍
Double tot of Havana Club coming up ... going down😋😋
Down the hatch Shipmates & Matesses. England Expects ...
😎

Very nice Dave👍
Reckon she'd fit very nicely on the deck of Bill's gi-normous HMS Repulse!
(Wonder whatever happened to that?🙄)
Doug 😎

Seems to work fine Ron, (Media Player on a PC), but I blinked and missed it!😮😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

"working a new one atm of a pt 109 boat, powerd by a jet motor like the origional design."
Sorry Staffros, but I think you've got your wires crossed somewhere🤔
The PT Boats were never fitted with water jets.
As far as I know water jets hadn't even been developed in the 1940s.
PTBs were driven by 3 conventional shafts and screws powered by Packard engines.
You may be thinking of the PBR (Patrol Boat River) as used in Vietnam.
Otherwise known as Pibber.
As I am restoring an old wooden PTB, and rebuilding as PT109, I have done considerable research on the PTBs. Mainly ELCOs like 109.
Here's a couple of basic links to illustrate what I mean.
PT Boat
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrol_torpedo_boat_PT-109
PBR
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrol_Boat,_River

There are plans and kits for the PBR on the market, and some examples of models here on this site.
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrol_torpedo_boat_PT-109

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patrol_Boat,_River

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Can't wait to see the 'curvy parts' Jacko! 😮🙈
Oh dear! Slapped wrist again 😭
😎

Absolutely can't wait to NOT!! see you in your Tutu and tights Bill! 😮
Whoda thought that bilge pumps and ballet dancing could ever meet in the same thread!?
I s'pose pumps are the connection😁
Cracking job so far Bill (Nureyev would be proud of you!)

Looking forward to the next gizmos.
Cheers, Doug 😎

"I assume the two x 10 Cell NiMh Batteries would be connected in Parallel not in series. Otherwise the voltage would be too high. Do you agree?"
ABSOLUTELY NOT CHRIS!
Connecting batteries in parallel can be dangerous, unless both have identical characteristics and charge states. Which is seldom the case! Danger is if that if one battery is at a significantly lower state of charge (voltage/capacity) then the other will try to charge it, which can cause very high current to flow --> FIRE🔥😭 So called Back Charging.
The way to prevent that is to connect the two batteries via fast Schottky diodes to prevent the reverse current flow. Connecting two 12V NiMh (10 cell) in parallel still only gives you 12V supply for the ESC and motor.

BUT, you NEED the high voltage to make the ESC and motor you are using work properly.
Connect the two batteries in series; i.e. + of one to the - of the other. Giving a nominal 24V using 10 cells or 19.2V NOM for the using 8 cell batteries. If you're worried go for 8 cells.
Should still give you decent performance
Make sure that the two batts are from the same manufacturer and of the same capacity (mAH).
When you get the new batts put them through 2 or 3 discharge / charge cycles to condition them for their new life 😉 That will help to get them both to the same charge state and prolong their useful life.
If you don't already have one I recommend that you get a voltage / capacity checker. Available all over Amazon/Ebay for a few quid.
Happy Batting😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Jacko,
" wheels needs to be printed photos as and when "
Why not have a trawl round the RC car/truck sites?
I'm sure you can find some suitable wheels (and drive train parts) there.
Or with your skills, why not 3D print some rims?
Then buy some RC truck tyres, to give better traction than the hard 3D print plastic.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Awaiting developments with great interest Jacko.
I do hope that yours isn't Leaky though!😮
Will you build this one as proper duplex drive?
I guess you can paint it any colour you like -
AS LONG AS IT'S BLACK!! 😉
Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

"the rice lights died after an hour"
Ah sooo! Special flied lights 😂

That is one beautiful boat BW ☀️☀️☀️ And great furnishings.
Love the comfy looking armchair and sofa. A post on how you made 'em would be very interesting. What's next? The flat screen TV and HiFi?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Chris,
I kinda figured that ballast came into the SLA equation there 👍
I do that with my larger warships (ca 1.5m) as well.
I too prefer 'power ballast' to 'dead lead' if possible.

Reckon you'll be pushed to find NiCads nowadays.
They're rather environmentally infradig these days due to the cadmium.
I'd go for two (8 or 10cell) NiMh of the highest capacity that fit the budget.
That should provide decent ballast and decent performance/endurance.
You could also consider fitting one either side of the hull to help with roll stability in turns.
Just a few thunks😉. Happy sea trials🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎

Like the hinge idea Rick👍
Are you going to make ladders or steps to get up to the doors? 😁🤣
Doug 😎

Looks like you're gonna have to brush up on your panelling/planking Rick 😉
BTW; Where's the kettle in your galley? 😁
Nice job👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Terry,
I note from the SLEC website that they recommend a Brushless Motor : 3536/8 1000Kv.

"Parts Needed to Complete the Model
10in x 4mm Prop Shaft PR830B
4mm to 5mm Coupling PR840C
Small Rudder PR833A
2 Bladed Prop 40 with 4mm thread PR 834A
Brushless Motor : 3536/8 1000Kv
50amp Brushless ESC with Reverse
3s Li-Po Battery Pack
White Metal Fittings Pack Available Part No PR804A"

Considering the size of the boat (25.75") and the motor diameter (36mm) I would be more inclined to fit a 35mm prop. I'd use a 3-blader but that's a matter of taste / aesthetics 😉

For reference, my 24.5" Sea Scout gets on the plane and runs very nicely with a 2830 1000kv brushless, 30mm 3 blade brass prop, running on a 3S (11.1V NOM) battery.
See my trials results here
https://model-boats.com/gallery?q=Sea%20Scout
Hope this helps,
Cheers, Doug 😎

gallery?q=Sea%20Scout

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Yayyyy! 😀Well done 👍
Now; Wotcha gonna do with the other 7 channels Peter?😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Rowen, Graham, Chris,
All very valid points, but -
I started with an even simpler thing - looking up the Specs of the components and Battery voltage required! (My test engineer instincts coming through 😉)

I believe that 12V is not enough for this ESC / Motor combo.
I found the same manual as Graham and checked the ESC specs, see page 1.
Esp. Operating voltage and Battery type (relevant for Cut off voltage!)
The ESC expects a minimum of
14 NiCad / NMIH cells, =16.8V NOM
or 4 LiPo cells. = 14.8V NOM.
So I strongly suspect that it detects a 12V SLA as a deep discharged battery and goes into Cut Off mode, i.e. shut down, with beep beep beep ... alarm.
Unfortunately the ESC manual does not specify the default values.
These may well be in the Programming Card manual though.
Strongly recommend that you buy the programmer Chris, much easier and quicker than 'beeping around'.

The motor spec also specifies higher voltage;-
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/P4445810.html
"Energ Brushless motor, suitable for large model boats such as Sea Queen
Battery - 5-6 cell Li-Poly, 20 Cell Nimh (18.5V / 22.2V NOM Lipo, 24V NOM NiMH)
Weight - 300g
670Kv
Connectors - Gold included
Working current - 40-80A : Peak 85A
Shaft diameter - 6mm
Speed Controller requirement - 85A."

So Chris;
Either get another 12V SLA and put the two in series or (and much better cos the ESC won't recognise the two SLAs and may 'think' they are a 20 cell NMIH) get yourself a 5 or 6 cell LiPo.
That will be much lighter and have a much better power to weight ratio than the SLA.
SLAs are generally not happy delivering high currents.
They were developed essentially for long term back up low current supplies.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/P4445810.html

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Brilliant stuff Stephen,
(Er! Oops! Stuff means summat totally different down there doesn't it! Learned from the Sea Patrol series 😁)
Great work and an excellent tutorial, keep it up 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Jock,
Welcome aboard 😀
Nice subject. At that scale you're gonna end up with a 174cm model😮
Hope you've got a BIG wagon!
I limit my ships to under 150cm.

Here you can find a few more piccies-
http://www.aukevisser.nl/german/id53.htm
(Includes one of Bill's)
and
http://www.aukevisser.nl/german/id327.htm

Looking forward to your Build Blog.
Have fun wiv all dem toobs!!😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

http://www.aukevisser.nl/german/id53.htm

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http://www.aukevisser.nl/german/id327.htm

🔗

"You will also note there are no instructions shown.Silly Billy lost them,or rather put them somewhere safe a long time ago and now because of many and increasing senior moments can’t find them!"
Know the feeling Bill🤔
Had to grovel around the internet to find some instructions for my 1/350 Merit Ark Royal (1939). Had gone nuts tearing up the flat looking for them.

These any good to you?
See attached pdf.
It's a slightly later version but the basics should be the same, just retooled I think.
Your version, 05061, doesn't seem to be available on Revell's Download site.
If not I can scan the instructions for my earlier version (05007) bought over 30 years ago here in Munich. First generation Revell version?
I had just seen it advertised as NEW in ModellWerft (Model Shipyard), kinda German Model Boats, and thought she'd be a great partner for my 1/72 destroyer. I'll get to building her one day🙄
Cheers, Doug 😎

Trying to find a South American channel were you Rick?
I was wondering if tube is correct for the TV antenna.
On the plan it looks more flat to me?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Glad you like the Eze-Kote Rick.
I swear by it - especially when I spill it 🤔😁
SFSG on the construction👍

BTW; Can it be that your shaft toob is a tad close to the rudder?
Gonna need a real slimline prop!
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Stephen,
"Yeah who would have known I would get to being a fish head.😁
I guess that's better than being a 'Cod Piece' 😮
I wish you more steam to your drifter (might stop her drifting 😁).
Watching (and learning) with enormous interest👍
'Fair dinkum cobber!'
Cheers, Doug 😎