Ya...😀
Half a yahoo for you Nerys.
The other half when Alice is jabbed too.
(Or 'jagged' as apparently they might say north o the border😉)
Cheers, Doug 😎

Why not Nerys?
AB is only a long and unpronounceable additive to the 'S' - Styrene😉
Apply with a small brush - and don't get all stuck up!!🤗😁
As I recall the solvents evaporate faster than with 'standard' kit polyS cement.
So speed and accuracy is required!!
All the best, Doug 😎

"Finally, to hold the roof in position, two brass pins were added to the roof hatch framework. These locate into corresponding holes in the cabin end panel. At the opposite end of the roof, a bent stainless steel clip fits through holes in the end wall and the roof frame to lock the roof in position. A similar fixing method will be used for the other hatches. "

WHAT?😮 Run out of mini magnets Graham??😁
Seriously though folks! More stunning woodworking, love it.😍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Martin,
Stern is definitely pointed.
Can be clearly seen in photos on this site.
All about the Leggatt family who commissioned them and operated them.
https://leggattfamily.co.uk/fishing_years/
https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=R.J+Perkins+and+sons+Whitstable&client=firefox-b-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjN0vWTgKvuAhXQzaQKHdlSASQQjJkEegQICxAB&biw=1920&bih=949#imgrc=nNq5mUp6A0dtfM
https://www.google.com/search?q=R.J+Perkins+and+sons+Whitstable&tbm=isch&chips=q:rj+perkins+and+sons+whitstable,online_chips:leggatt&client=firefox-b-d&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwikoqqmna3uAhULxhoKHb0ZBVYQ4lYoBnoECAEQHw&biw=1903&bih=949
Cheers, Doug 😎
More later, I've been enhancing some pics posted here and some I found.
Gotta go now, fridge / freezer needs restocking!

https://leggattfamily.co.uk/fishing_years/

🔗

https://www.google.com/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=R.J+Perkins+and+sons+Whitstable&client=firefox-b-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjN0vWTgKvuAhXQzaQKHdlSASQQjJkEegQICxAB&biw=1920&bih=949#imgrc=nNq5mUp6A0dtfM

🔗

https://www.google.com/search?q=R.J+Perkins+and+sons+Whitstable&tbm=isch&chips=q:rj+perkins+and+sons+whitstable,online_chips:leggatt&client=firefox-b-d&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwikoqqmna3uAhULxhoKHb0ZBVYQ4lYoBnoECAEQHw&biw=1903&bih=949

🔗

"You may have seen my posts on ships nostalgia ?"
Yep, that was it!
https://www.shipsnostalgia.com/threads/wells.52139/
😎

https://www.shipsnostalgia.com/threads/wells.52139/

🔗

Hi WellsBoi,
This seems to be a lifetime quest for you!
I'm sure I've seen you on another forum some 7 years ago with the same query.

On this site there are a number of guys who are expert at designing and building from photographs.
Notably jbkiwi in New Zealand.
Also several guys like redpmg, Ianh (SA) and myself are OK with graphics / drawing software.

If you can supply basic dimensions; length overall and maximum beam, as well as photos taken square on to the boat showing side profiles bow and stern views, maybe between us we can sort something out.

As far as motors are concerned there are many members who have built models of that size.
I hope at least one of them picks up on this and offers advice from their experience.
With respect to RC gear there are countless possibilities (and prices!), but that decision can be made way down the line when the boat is under construction and you have decided what you want to do with it, and thus how many control functions (TX channels) you will need.

First equipment decision should be size and type of motor and prop combination.
I hope that between us we can help you realise your dream.
Good luck🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎

Jim,
I know I've not been getting much exercise with Lockdown and all, but I haven't put on THAT MUCH weight😁
Still hovering around 90kg😊
Cheers, Doug 😎

No theory Graham, simple physics 😉
λ=C/f !!
Wavelength (metres) = Speed of light (metres per second)/ Frequency (cycles per second or Hertz)
😎

Thanks for the info Mike.
I think I'm gonna be taking more interest in kitchen equipment shops in future!
Should puzzle and amuse Gisela😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

What an entrance!!
Magnificent😮 right down to that beautiful base.
What wood is that?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Absolutely brilliant☀️☀️☀️
and I thought I was in trouble when I renovated a 12" model of Parmir about 30 years ago.
Was a walk in the park compared to this Mike.
Keep it up. What's next I wonder?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Main thing is that you're feeling fine Mark👍 Good to hear.
Trust your Mum is also still feeling fine, I bet she's looking forward to whizzing around in her jag when she finally gets it 😁
My Mum is coming up on 96 and also still hasn't received her jab - near Nottingham.
Stay safe young man😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Bill,
"I have had a similar problem in the past on another system and I used the old style GPO telephone wire,which is the same fine diameter."

Good choice👍
Main thing is a single solid core (like phone wire😉) not stranded like general use 'hook-up' wire.
I too have seemingly endless coils of multicore phone cable.
Used it for my 40MHz antenna on my Type 1A U Boat from bow to stern, just like the original.
Cheers, Doug 😎

I accept the challenge Graham😉

Jim,
"A question for the more technically minded the ariel cables on 35 mhz are often a couple of feet long and those on 2.4 may only be 6 to 8 inches long. If while you are replacing a lost cable on a 2.4 can you make it longer and will it give better reception. "

The short answer is NO as Graham says.
The 2.4Ghz RC band is a large chunk of the 2.4 -2.5GHz ISM band (Industrial Scientific & Medical band for license free transmitters - also used by Bluetooth, WLAN, WIFI, Smart Homes, Microwave cookers etc etc.
Actual frequency range usable for RC is 2.400 to 2.485 GHz.
The centre frequency of this band is thus 2.4425GHz, which has a wavelength of 12.274cm (or 4.832 inches). This is the correct 'effective' resonant length for our 2.4 Gig RXs, giving the best response over the whole band.
Why 'effective' length? You may have noticed that some RXs have a much shorter antenna wire outside the case, I have some with only about 5 or 6 cm visible. The rest is made up by a loading coil inside the case and the length of circuit track from the coil to the input stage of the RX amplifier.
BTW: 6 to 8 inches is unusually long for a 2.4 Gig, too long. 6" gives a resonant frequency of 1.967GHz and 8" a frequency of 1.499GHz, both outside our 2.4Gig RC band🤔

Lengthening the the wire outside the case puts the antenna off resonance causing a partial reflection of the input signal back to the antenna thus reducing the RX sensitivity to your TX signal.
Lengthening the wire moves the resonant tuning point to a lower frequency out of the 2.4 RC band☹️
All this applies to any single wire (monopole) antenna designed for use in a particular frequency range.
That's why all the 27, 35 and 40MHz RXs also had the warning not to change the antenna length.

Hope that this helps more than it confuses - and meets Graham's expectations😁
Cheers, Doug 😎

BTW2: you will find that some RXs have two antenna wires.
This is known as Antenna Diversity giving receiving two paths. If reception on one fades or is blocked by some object (another big model?) the RX will switch to the other always choosing the best signal available.
The two wires should be installed at right angles to each other. one VERTICAL and one HORIZONTAL.
This is to match the two antennas in the TX. One in the handle transmitting horizontally and the 'rubber duck' which should be adjusted or held so that it is vertical.
If you install both RX antennas in the same plane (either vertical or horizontal) you loose the advantage of this diversity.
Some more sophisticated (expensive🙄) sets even use separate channels for the two paths.

"How ,what ,why when"

Hi Roger,
Most (all?) modern ESCs need to be 'taught' which is All Ahead, All Stop and All Back, by moving the throttle stick on the TX Up, Centre, Back.
Seems like when you plugged the ESC into channel 6 you just happened to 'waggle' the stick in the right sequence👍😁
All's well that ends well😊
Happy sailing, if/when possible.
Stay safe, cheers, Doug 😎

😍Hi All, something to cheer us up a bit😉
"The Covid Anthem"
Turn up the sound and sing along😁
Just received by email from Rick (Newby7) in Canada.
Hope it works 🤞 If not I'll go via UToob!
Cheers, Doug 😎
UHU it woiked😀

Hi Nerys,
It is HIPs = High Impact Polystyrene.
Cheers, Doug 😎

"LiPo Batteries Explained."
Sorry Martin, I dipped out as soon as I heard "twelve volts of current"!
He also rather 'glossed over' what the polymer in Lithium polymer actually means.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Strictly speaking the correct designation of a LIPo (Lithium Polymer) accumulator (rechargeable battery)
is 'Lithium Ion Polymer'.
An Ion being simply a particle (atom or molecule) with an electrical charge.
Thus the chemical processes in a Lithium-Ion and a LiPo battery are essentially the same:- i.e. transfer of Ions via the electrolyte from the + end (a Lithium compound) to the - electrode (usually carbon compound).
The Ions are then 'tired guests' in the carbon electrode. Applying a voltage from your charger 'wakes up' the guests and sends 'em back to the Lithium electrode thus restarting the cycle.
The basic difference is in the physical construction; Li-Ion uses a liquid electrolyte as a conduction medium and spatial separation of the + and - electrodes, whereas a LiPo contains the electrolyte (which may be held in an organic or inorganic solution so the video guy's mention of organic in an Li-Ion is irrelevant) wrapped in a polymer separator film. Usually some kind of polyethylene compound - which is a long chain Polymer plastic. Well wadda ya know, that's where the Po in LiPo comes from😁
The separator film is micro-porous allowing the Ions through but not any larger particles from the + electrode.
Thus they can easily be shaped into cylindrical cells (the video guy's rolled up sheet), flat pouches etc etc.
Just follow the rules included with any LiPo battery and you'll be fine folks👍
BTW: A slight expansion (puffing) of a LiPo when fully charged is normal, caused by some vaporisation of the electrolyte. True solid state electrolyte LiPos are still in development.

OK, Plan checked out, it shows Ajax in 1940, so after repairs following the River Plate action.
I'll have a shufti through my archive pics of Ajax at various stages of her career, see if I can detect any changes/upgrades after Rio de la Plata. Catch up with you soon.
Like the hull plating you've done👍 RU gonna let us into your secret???
Cheers, Doug 😎

So far so very good Norm, as I had expected👍
I'll check on the origins of that plan, see if I can determine what status (year) it depicts.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Nick,
Hadn't realised that you were that old!!😁
Which ship were you on?
😎

Always the good guys that get clobbered!
Where are the Trumps, Putins, Lukashenkos etc ... on this list?
A great loss to the MB world but most especially of course for his family and friends.
My thoughts are with them.
There but for the grace of God ...

Hope I didn't give you the needle Mike🤞
Not my intention😌
I go green with envy every time I see another example of your excellent woodwork.😋
Keep 'em coming👍
Cheers, Doug 😎

Nice job Mike👍
Just needs a bit more fettling (rounding off).
The 'fair' in fairlead means it allows leading a line out or leading it in without chafing it on sharp edges 😉
1st pic shows 'Three mooring hawsers running through fairlead on a RNZN ship.'
2nd a typical 'add on' metal fairlead on a sailboat.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi Mike,
Somehow the link that I originally wanted to post vanished when I added the pics!😠
So here it is, should provide some tips and tricks for working with plastic😉
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=working+w...
Cheers, Doug 😎

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=working+with+plasticard

🔗

Hi Hilly,
"Working off the drawing is proving a challenge, having limited knowledge of ships rigging."
You might find some tips and tricks here😉
Might take a while to browse through (get some beer and sandwiches in😁) cos there's 'undreds of 'em!
Cheers, Doug 😎
https://www.pinterest.de/prairieseadogs/rigging-ideas/?rcpt=...
or
https://www.pinterest.de/mickderuyter/watercraft-diagrams/?rcpt=630011572781105997&utm_campaign=rdboards&e_t=ccd4f3760076421a8b5510b3ce2edb9a&utm_source=31&utm_medium=2004&utm_content=320740873401540236&utm_term=1
or
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#G

https://www.pinterest.de/prairieseadogs/rigging-ideas/?rcpt=630011572781105997&utm_campaign=rdboards&e_t=ccd4f3760076421a8b5510b3ce2edb9a&utm_source=31&utm_medium=2004&utm_content=587508782579010872&utm_term=4

🔗

https://www.pinterest.de/mickderuyter/watercraft-diagrams/?rcpt=630011572781105997&utm_campaign=rdboards&e_t=ccd4f3760076421a8b5510b3ce2edb9a&utm_source=31&utm_medium=2004&utm_content=320740873401540236&utm_term=1

🔗

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_nautical_terms#G

🔗

Asbolutley bind moggling Hilly😮
1000+ clove hitches!! You've got those ratlines well and truly knotted. What patience👍
Job very well done Sir.
How many decades did you say you've been working on her?
Cheers, Doug 😎

Hi ADIMike,
(How's the driving instruction going?😁)
Ref working with plasticard have a look at the links here, something there should spark you off💥💡😉
Are you working to a plan? If not - MAKE ONE! At least accurate sketches of major parts.
Cover the plan with tracing or baking paper then you can glue bits together on it accurately without getting into a 'stick up' with the plan. Use a thin plastic glue that you can brush on and it should run into long joints by capillary action.
To reinforce the inside corners I use square or L profiles. If the corner is not 90° I cut appropriate brackets from thicker plasticard ca 1/8" (3mm).
Used the same techniques (except for thin plastic glue😁) with 0.5mm ply for the superstructure of scratch built 1/72 destroyer. I glued up with thin waterproof PVA.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Your destroyer HMS Temerity is very similar to my scratch build, HMS Hotspur. See pics.
Made to plans I scaled up from an Airfix 1/600 kit when I was 15. Since been rebuilt, twice😁

Good call Cash👍
To paraphrase Martin's signature-
'If it doesn't look right, it probably isn't!'
Cheers, Doug 😎

Nice bit of argy-bargy there Nerys 👍
She's gonna look the bee's knees when all fettled up and painted😊

I agree with Martin on the LST shafts.
You definitely need supports at the inboard end of the toobs to stop them whipping about and putting excessive load on the bearings and couplings. Or possibly even cracking the glue around the hull exits!😮
A half bulkhead would do the job nicely, and add some extra hull stiffening to boot😉
Very glad to see you back on the slipway😊
All the best, Doug 😎