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    Basic electrical connections of a modern RC model receiver.
    2 Posts ยท 1 Follower ยท 6 Photos ยท 2 Likes
    Began 2 months ago by
    Commodore
    Italy
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    Latest Post 2 months ago by
    Commodore
    Italy
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    AlessandroSPQR
    Commodore
    ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น Italy
    ๐Ÿ“ Basic electrical connections of a modern RC model receiver.
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    I don't know why, but I had already inserted this part in the first message and instead I must have made a mistake in some "copy/paste" from the translator because it wasn't there. Instead there was a duplicate of the text already present.

    Okay, it's okay, I'll report it in this new message.

    From what I have written so far it is clear that the receiver, in addition to receiving the signals via radio and forwarding them to the various channels to control the ESC, servos and switches, also distributes the power supplies in parallel.
    In fact, by powering any row (group of three pins), all the others are powered.
    As already mentioned, if a pin of the central column (the positive one) goes to an electrical potential of +6 volts, for example, all the pins of the same column will have the same potential.
    Similarly, if one pin of the negative column is connected to zero potential, to the negative of the battery, all the others will be at the same potential.

    To power the receiver you can choose to connect the BEC to one of the channels, or (after having isolated the positive of the BEC) to connect a battery to the dedicated line (It would work on any line but a channel would be wasted unnecessarily).

    Knowing that the receiver also acts as a sorting power supply in parallel is important to understand that: the voltage range of the receiver must be compatible with the voltage range of the servos.

    In this standard configuration (in which it is sufficient to correctly insert the three-cable plugs into the correct slots) all the servo currents pass through the receiver.
    As a rule, they are low electric currents, certainly much lower than the electric current that powers the motor (the latter does not pass through the receiver at all), so you never worry about checking the powers involved or installing fuses. The circuits are in fact galvanically separated.
    However, in the case of simultaneous use of many servos, if a great effort is expected from these servos, it is better to check the values of the powers involved.
    To check the powers (since the voltage is the same) you can refer to the values of the electric current.
    The sum of the maximum currents absorbed by the individual servos must not exceed the maximum current value sustainable by the receiver.
    This value is usually indicated in the technical specifications of the product and is stamped on the receiver itself.
    AlessandroSPQR
    Commodore
    ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น Italy
    ๐Ÿ“ Basic electrical connections of a modern RC model receiver.
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    Good morning everyone.

    From reading some posts on the forum, but above all from private messages I received, I realized that we take many things for granted.
    For example, how the pins of a normal receiver are connected.

    For many modelers these are obvious things but for others not, so I will post some photos for the benefit of those who are starting to use these objects for the first time.
    The questions are never stupid or trivial, but I hope to help the more shy ones.


    On the receivers we can always identify (except in rare cases) groups of pins organized in rows of three pins each.
    Three columns are therefore always formed.
    As you can see in the first attached image.

    The number of rows (always stacked one below the other) varies depending on the number of channels.
    In the example of the first attached image we can see that there are seven lines of three pins each, in fact there are six channels plus the battery (power) line.
    The battery is intended as power reception, there is no battery in the receiver, in fact the receiver does not supply voltage independently.
    Each channel is distinguished by its caption as well as the pinout for connection to the battery.

    In the central column there are always the pins of the positive connection (see the second attached image).
    This is not accidental.
    If an inexperienced modeller makes a mistake with the connection by inverting the standard plug (female) of the servo, BEC or battery, the positive can never be inverted as it is in the central position.
    Accidental reversal of the other two does not cause any damage, but be careful and avoid it.

    In the side columns there are the negative pins and the signal pins of the individual channels.
    In this case the pins of the left column are the signal pins (except the battery connection row), as you can see in the third attached image.
    In the right column there are the negative connection pins, as can be seen in the fourth attached image.
    To understand which is the negative column and which is the signal column, just read the caption on your receiver, like the one indicated by the red arrow in the first attached image.
    Generally, the voltage range to correctly power the receiver is always indicated. It is usually a value between 4 volts and 6.5 volts. Much more commonly the range is 4.8 volts to 6 volts.

    But how can you understand which column has the signal pins and which column has the negative pins if there are no indications on the receiver?
    I actually happened to see many receivers without this indication.

    Just do some continuity measurements.
    You need to know that:
    1. All the pins of the central column (i.e. the positive ones) are in electrical continuity. This means that if I give 5 volts to one pin, all the others will be at the same electrical potential of 5 volts.
    2. All the pins of the negative column are in electrical continuity. This means that if I connect one to the negative all will be connected to the negative.
    3. All the signal pins are isolated from each other and therefore are not in electrical continuity.

    Knowing that the central column is always dedicated to the positive pinout, it will be enough to discern the other two.
    You will have already understood that it will be enough to carry out, with your electric multimeter, a measurement of electrical resistance (or electrical continuity which is easier) between two pins of the same column.
    If the chosen pins are in electrical continuity that is the negative column, if they are isolated, that is the signal column.

    But how are these measurements made?
    1. Select the tester to ohm (electrical resistance measurements).
    2. Connect the measurement cables to the tester correctly.
    3. Let the tips of the measurement cables touch any two pins of the same column, as shown in the fifth attached photo.
    4. If the tester indicates very low resistance, the pins are in electrical continuity and therefore that is the side column of the negatives.
    5. If the tester signals a very high resistance (tending to infinity) the pins of that column are isolated and therefore these are the pins of the electrical signal.

    If you are not familiar with resistance measurements, you can look to see if the tester has the buzzer symbol.
    This symbol on the tester is the one (above the diode symbol) indicated by the red arrow in the sixth attached image.
    When this symbol is on the tester you can make simple electrical continuity measurements.
    If you select the cursor on this type of measurement and touch the test leads, the tester will emit a sound that signals electrical continuity.
    Therefore, by touching two pins of the same column, if the tester beeps, they are the negative ones, if it doesn't ring they are the signal pins.



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