I'm enjoying this topic and especially Jbkiwi and ChrisF's posts.
Your tests are very useful and interesting. You do well to share them.
I will try to memorize as much of the information you have provided as possible.

Don't worry Doogle, in the ranking of the slowest ship modelers, like snails, I'll keep you worthy company.

Fantastic!

Hi Colin, condolences on the loss of your mother.
I'm happy every time you participate in the forum.
Whoever gets your models will be very lucky, I hope you treat them well. It is a real disappointment to have to get rid of the ship models due to lack of space.

Thanks so much Dave.

Is that alloy mainly lead-based?

Hi Martin, I like how it looks in the water.

I really appreciate you paying attention to realistic speed.

Sorry, out of curiosity, but I have never bought kits for rc models and I don't have extensive experience in general: what metal is white metal? What chemical element is it composed of, or is it an alloy?

Hi everyone.

I discovered that the terms: warp and warping have many meanings in English and are used in many areas.

This is the correct interpretation of the term:
The "warping" is the movement of the vessel when a crew member on board exerts a force on a cable or line fixed to the ground (which may be connected to an anchor, a dead body or a bollard).

So what does it have to do with the lifeboat with good displacement, capable of carrying the ship's large anchor?

Well, in the event that the ship had run aground on a sandbank, in addition to lightening it, as well as causing movements on board to create oscillations, it may be useful to bring the anchors to a certain distance and warping.

I don't know if I was clear.

Sorry, the correct term for the word "tonneggio" I think is "warping". I hope it's clear now what I meant. The word "tonnage" was incorrect and misleading.
For us Italians tonnage means "tonnellagio" (i.e. how many tons and it has nothing to do with it).

As I had anticipated, the previous projects did not completely convince me.

I found some time to redesign a lifeboat from scratch.
After various corrections I found the right and consistent water lines for the hull.
As usual, I reported the drawing of the keel and the frames on an A4 sheet in PDF format, for the subsequent cutting of the wood.

In the photos you can see some steps and the current state.

For this lifeboat I thought of a shorter but wider shape. I couldn't make it longer (like the side ones for example) due to space problems. I wanted it wider to allow greater displacement.
I imagined that at least one lifeboat of this type would be useful on board.
I thought it would be useful for the commander to have a lifeboat available to carry an anchor.
Do you think it was useful? Question of the day without AI.
I think it could prove useful for tonnage the ship. Did I use the right term? Does anyone understand what I mean by tonnage?
Maybe that's not the correct translation.

Beautiful!
Great photos.
The fourth photo is very suggestive.

Hi StephenT, this model does not need a heavy restoration.
The conditions aren't that bad.
Good work and have fun with the precious help of the good Hermank.

Sorry Ross, I only replied to the private message now. I read it some time ago, with the intention of replying as soon as possible and then I forgot.
In my haste I may have made some mistakes, bear with me.

Very beautiful and elegant even in the water.
Have fun Wolle.

Hi Gary, I'm glad you found a solution already, thanks to Doug.
For me, however, the great and good news is that you are building a new steam model.
For me it's a model just to be admired, I can't wait to see some images of the developments.

Yes EdW, I didn't know this modeling company but I trust your positive opinion. You're right, it's a real shame that a model production company is closing down.
How unfortunate that it hasn't been taken over by anyone and has to close.
Thus knowledge and experience in the sector are lost.

Great Peejay, an exemplary philosophy and way of taking life.
When you want to undertake the construction of a naval model, know that I will be in the front row following you.
In the meantime, I enjoy your very active presence in this forum, always full of spirit and positive.

Hi Jbkiwi, your internal electrical setup is very interesting and original.
It is clear that you are very familiar with Lipo batteries.
What I really like (among many other things) is this thermal protection.
You had a great idea and you have implemented it in an excellent way. Just be careful that Aliexpress sells some defective components, but it is too convenient to make purchases there. I also get many components from that site.
However, all the precautions to ensure greater safety for the life of the naval model, always arouse my interest and have my approval.

From the electrical point of view your naval model is becoming a leading model and a school for others, congratulations there is a lot to learn from you.

It looks great!
Typically the model that looks like it just rolled out of the shipyard.

Great Mike, with laser cutting at your disposal you do what you want and you do it very well.

Very nice Jumpugly and Wolle.

Hi Jumpugly, what a great genius your father had!

It should also be put on those poor sea turtles. Have you ever seen any videos of sea turtles full of barnacles? Luckily when they find them many fishermen free them by removing them manually.

Hi Champdriver, it happens to me too.
I don't know why, I don't know much about computers, I just know that it's a server-side error, I don't think we can do anything about it.

Hi everyone, I have very little time to devote to modeling, but that doesn't worry me as much as the lack of space worries me.
After finishing this naval model in progress, I have many things in mind and I can opt for two restorations and two new projects.
Given how I am, I'm sure that, in the end, I will opt for the creation of the new one and will continue to postpone the restoration indefinitely (or I will restore at the same time as the new one).
But I really don't know where to put other models and that's frustrating.

Hi Doogle, happy to read you.

Good evening to all ship model builders.

I have finished the hulls of the two test boats (made of cardboard).
The models are not well finished, they were made quickly just to have a rough idea of ​​any errors.
The second boat has several small errors, frame no. 5 must definitely be completely eliminated.
I am not convinced yet, I think I will start drawing again to find something that convinces me more in shape.
As for dimensions, however, I think they are fine. At most a centimeter and a half centimeter shorter.

Hi Ross, sorry for the delay in replying to your PM, check your private messages folder now.

Hi Duncan, I cut the hull with a simple cutter.
They recommended electric cutters to do it but I didn't trust them, the work was too delicate.
To follow the line you want and not the grain you can use a steel ruler, or a mark (pencil, marker, tape, etc. etc.) the important thing is that the first grooves are light, then gradually you can sink and push more because the blade will not take other paths.

"Having 'chewed over' all of discussions about fiber glassing the hull I 'chickened out' and instead just applied a coat of Z-epoxy 2 part finishing resin."
Excellent decision.

I also think it's very realistic, I like how it cuts through the waves and how the smoke comes out of that smokestack.

Hi Jbkiwi.

Yes the motor is a bit noisy but, in my opinion, it's already fine like this.
Excellent water drain and other sound automations.

Good evening to all naval modelers.

I mainly answer to the double R: Roy and Ross, but this message is for all modelers interested in this topic.
I thank Ross for reopening it.
Actually, let me say one thing: I really like it, in fact I adore "much ado about nothing".
I already said that for those who design a hull for a sailboat from scratch, knowing certain information is important, in fact essential. But here we talk about it for pure pleasure and I like to hear your ideas, especially from people so prepared and sharp.

Tonight I really got behind with the messages, there is a lot of meat and cooking and I hope I understood everything you said.
I will reread it better even after this message.

So I start from Roy's message in this topic that begins like this: "Have you tried the old methods? I get a good estimate using the Prismatic coefficient..."
And I will follow the discussion in chronological order.
I speak as a layman and ignorant compared to you but the prismatic coefficient method, although valid, is not the most precise, in my opinion.
It is certainly the fastest.
If you remember, in the topic (see link at the end) of the Esso Deutchland tanker by JockScott (hey Jock, greetings from me, you see that your question was very interesting) we had addressed this issue.
More precisely in message no. 33 of that topic, dating back to about nine months ago, I had compared the final results of three methods to calculate the immersed volume.
The methods were the following:
- 3d software method.
- mathematical/geometric method (without 3d software).
- prismatic coefficient method.

The most precise value is the one provided by the software. However, you need to have the software and you need to know how to use it.

The prismatic coefficient method is fast but the least precise.

The method I called "mathematical/geometric" is very laborious and long, but precise and does not require software.
I will not repeat it here (I described it in the second attached link).
I have not read it anywhere, it seemed the most logical and natural to me, especially when I learned to draw (badly and little unfortunately) with Rhinoceros.
Of course I have not invented anything new and who knows how long it has been used. I simply want to say that (for having arrived at it by myself) it is quite simple and intuitive.

Before moving on, a question please: in point no. 1, where you write:
1 Measure area of ​​2 adjacent stations.
Are you referring to submerged sections? In that case, how do you calculate the areas of sections with curved lines (that are not circles, ellipses, parabolas, hyperbolas etc. etc. i.e. not identifiable by a mathematical formula or function)? Do you use the method I used for JockScott?

The method that Ross intends to follow, instead, seems different from all the three listed. I think I understood it from these sentences of yours:
"This isn't the usual 'measure the area of ​​the cross-sections and multiply by the length' I did that in high school, and it worked well. I want to try something different this time. This is not my tested and proven method yet. It is still being developed."
Probably the method you discarded is, with some small variations, the one I prefer and use (in the absence of software).
Well, this intrigues me a lot. I am absolutely curious to see it.
It doesn't matter if it won't be a sure success, the mere fact of trying is a merit from my point of view, you have all my moral support.

Well, now let's get to your method.
I think you explained it from the point where you start with this sentence:
"So, visualize an imaginary box that the vessel ..."
I have to be honest. I need to reread it a few times and maybe I'll ask you more questions to understand better, (sorry but translations always put me in difficulty) but like this, at first glance, it seems to me a compendium between the calculation method that Jock Scott empirically did and infinitesimal calculus (but very empirical-practical and without formulas).
If I understood correctly, this method becomes more precise the more cubes of subdivision there are. That is, if instead of 28 units you use many more (increasing the subdivision) you increase the precision.
However, whether I understood or not, it is truly a method that interests me a lot, logical and not impossible to apply in practice. You have my full attention. I will follow all the developments.

Finally, I take a small step back to your question:
"Question I ask here, are there techniques that will allow paper drawn curves to be transferred to computer hull design programs? "
I don't know if I have understood your doubt perfectly but I can tell you that if I have a drawing done on paper, after having scanned it, I have no problem with Rhinoceros to trace all the lines (frames, keel, water lines etc. etc.) in order to reproduce the drawing on Rhino. Creating the hull surface and the volumes is much more difficult (at least for me, not for the good ones).
I already did it for the JockScott tanker.
So if I understood the question correctly, the answer is: Yes, it can be done.
However, if I understood the question correctly, if my answer is correct, your method continues to interest me a lot.

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