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Vosper MTB 77 - Italeri kit
I have just finished refurbishing this boat. It was given to me by a Club members wife whose husband had passed away. The boat was made some years ago and was in a fragile state as the adhesive used had dried out. The parts almost fell off and I managed to strip the model completely down and repaint and build it again. I have installed new prop shaft, prop, motor, rudder assembly and RC throughout. 'Sea' trials will be held soon as long as I can properly seal between the hull and the deck.
ads90
3 years ago
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(Trawler) Milford Star
This is my latest build and is from the Caldercraft range. It has taken me 3 months during the Covid 'lock down' period. It was challenging at times due to the poor information in the so called instruction book and not to scale drawing. The parts list in areas bore little resemblance to what was included in the contents however it makes up to be a very good model and it does help if you have your own stash of materials that you can substitute or make the parts you need or replace.
I used an MFA geared motor at 2.5:1 ratio and a Viper 15 Amp ESC. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and it should give a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening later in the year. In all it was a very satisfying build.
ads90
3 years ago
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Dragon Flite DF95 (Yacht)
The DF95 yacht by Joysway is a great introduction into sailing a racing yacht. Easy to sail, not too expensive compared to IOM's and 36R's and you can change the rigs in about 5 minutes as the weather dictates. The standard A Rig supplied is perfectly acceptable for a lot of wind ranges on an inland lake but you may need to change down to a B rig if you sail in exposed locations. There is a great racing scene around the country and internationally as DF 95's in their own special class. I had the opportunity to sail mine in very high winds last Sunday (01 Feb) and had some fantastic sailing especially on the downwind legs where it was 'flying' but not submarining. (10/10)
ads90
3 years ago
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(Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)
This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)
ads90
5 years ago
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(Yacht) DF65
The DF65 range of yachts by Joysway are an exciting introduction into sailing a racing yacht. Easy to sail, not too expensive and you can change the rigs in about 5 minutes as the weather dictates. I also sai lother yachts incuding my IOM Class but the DF65 is so easy to transport in the car to the lake. I usually use either my A or A+Rigs and find them perfectly acceptable for a lot of wind ranges on an inland lake but you may need to change down to a B rig if you sail in exposed locations. There is a great racing scene around the country and internationally as the DF 65 and DF 95 in their own special class or within the RG 65 class. (10/10)
ads90
5 years ago
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(Fire Boat) Vosper Firefloat
This is one of my oldest and favourite boats - as you can see it is a Fireboat but it is not a Vosper Mk 2. it was kit built at one time but I haven't been able to track down what it is. is like a Vosper Firefloat Mk.2 but it is different. The bridge section of my boat is different being longer, the mid-ship section having three windows in lieu of two and the stern is completely different in profile. I first wrote about my boat on the Model Fireboat Website back in 2010 and asked for any help in identification but despite lots of good comment but I was none the wiser. I contacted Terry Holtham who is an acknowledged expert in RAF Marine craft having written many books and he provided me with a lot of information and said "It bears an uncanny resemblance to the drawing I received which was an official Vosper drawing but not with a number or date I have presumed it to be what I believe is the Mk 1 version of the 46ft Firefloat". However this is not definitive and I still have no real answer. Great fast little boat that 'turns on a sixpence' though. (Motor: Graupner 600 Turbo) (ESC: Torpedo 30 Amp) (8/10)
ads90
5 years ago
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(Yacht) Koh-i-Noor
I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary motor, batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy. (Motor: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10)
I have now made and fitted a fin to the keel to imprve the handling of the yacht in higher winds. Robbe used to supply one as an accessory but not avialable now of course so I made my own using layers of lead sheet wrapped in plasticard then filled, sanded to shape, fitted and painted to match the hull/keel. Certainly improves the sailing and the yacht doesn't heel over in high winds or gusts as it did previously.
ads90
6 years ago
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(Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer
The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I sail her regularly on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights, wheelhouse lighting which gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening and I also installed a small Graupner smoke unit in the funnel. An electronic sound generator Steam whistle completes the 'add ons' for my Northlight.
(Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10).
ads90
7 years ago
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(Tug Boat) 'Westbourne' PLA Tug
Westbourne is a Port of London Authority steam Tug from the Caldercraft Mini-Fleet Range - it is 1:48 scale. This model was discontinued a few years ago but I did manage to purchase a brand new boxed one via ebay a couple of years ago. it has taken me about 18 month to complete but only working off and on for some time until recently when I decided I needed to get a move on with it. The hull has limited access for the RC, batteries, steering servo and motor but I have managed to fit it in neatly with access to all parts, I have fitted batteries on both sides amidships in the hull acting as both ballast and stability. I have now run my tug on our club pond and she sits perfectly on the water and no other ballast required. I originally installed a geared motor at 2.5:1 and I thought that the tug was sailing a little faster than I wanted so I changed to my 6:1 setup but the speed and control was poor, so I went back to my original set up. On the whole I am very pleased at how she has turned out. Now started on my Northlight Clyde Puffer. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper 15 Marine) (9/10)
ads90
7 years ago
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(Working Vessel) Paula III
A great little boat from Graupner, plenty of detail and sails/handles very well. it was sunk on our lake by one of the other larger yachts but I managed to retrieve it and dry it out - the only issue was that I didn't have too much low speed control in forward from the ESC but nevertheless still worked well.
I gave my Paula 3 a makeover - just used some spare bits and pieces that were left over from othere builds, plus a good rubbing down and re-spray. (Motor: 540) (ESC: Mtroniks Viper) (8/10)
ads90
10 years ago
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(Working Vessel) Lady Laura
This was a scratch built boat made of ply which I based on a hull from Model Boat Magazine but modified. Wheel house and superstructure to my design. Not yet completed in full but sails well with no leaks. Great little general purpose fishing vessel suitable for my grandchildren to sail as slow enough for them to learn to handle and control the boat properly. (Motor: Graupner 600 ECO) (ESC: Hitec 10 Amp) (8/10)
ads90
10 years ago
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(Naval Ship) Perkasa
I have just completed this model - just waiting for the new prop to arrive along with a flag for the main mast. it was a Precedent all wood kit and not too Impressed with the materials but you only get what you pay for. Overall I think it has turned out not too bad and it seemed to get better the more I worked on it (or is that psychlogical)Tested in the Marine testing laboratory (white bath) and floats OK with no sign of a leak (fingers crossed).
Boat finally completely finished 30/12/12 and new 2-blade prop fitted and great turn of speed.
Now got the ESC working properly and she has taken on another dimension in terms of speed - no more taking turns at high speed !!
She is planing on just the stern and very skittish at heavy turn of the rudder so gently does it. (Motor: Graupner 700 Speed Turbo) (ESC: Tornado 50 Amp) (9/10)
ads90
11 years ago
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(Other) Bruma
Bruma is a Ketch based on a converted trawler. it is a plank on frame model by Mantua. (Motor: 2 x MFA 400) (ESC: Viper Marine) (9/10)
ads90
11 years ago
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(Tug Boat) Alte Liebe
My tug Alte Liebe is from a Caldercraft Kit. She weighs about 30 lbs including ballast. She sails really well at a realsitic scale speed. I keep adding bits to her (adding to her beauty - in my eyes !!) as and when I feel the need to or when I am bored of working on my other boats. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Hitec SP-610 RF) (9/10)
ads90
11 years ago
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Recent Posts
π¬ Re: Moonbeam with J class sails
4 months ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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The sails look good and your Moonbeam sails well. However, I think you have lost the original charm of a superb yacht that sails well in most winds. We have 3 Moonbeam yachts in our Club and they look stunning under full sail as intended.
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π 40th Midhurst Model Exhibition
4 months ago by
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40th Anniversary of Midhurst Model Exhibition.
Sunday 12 February 2023. Open 10.00 - 16.00 hours. Entrance fee about Β£6 plus you can get family ticket
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π Americas' Cup, a bit of good news
2 years ago by
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I too watched it this morning live and the first race was not very exciting with NZ out in front and extending their lead from the off. A little odd inasmuch that there was not a lot in it with regard boatspeed of both but possibly NZ were heading to wind a bit higher. 2nd Race a lot better with Italy in the lead from the off but covering every tack made by NZ. Not a lot in it at the finish but showed NZ what Italy can do.
Interesting to see that with these foiling yachts a breeze of 14 kts can be turned into a boat speed of 40 its or more, even touching 50 Kts at times. What a great venue to sail in.
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π Flashing LEDs
2 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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But the cost of a Nano is so low such that it is a very flexible tool and can be re-programmed quickly and provide additional outputs, etc. Coupled with the cost of LED's and resistors which are cheap as chips (excuse the pun) makes it a simple cost option. However, each to his own.
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π Flashing LEDs
2 years ago by
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So much easier with an Arduino especially controlling the dimming and flash rate.
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π Americas' Cup, a bit of good news
2 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Absolutely fantastic racing with Ineos GB touching just over 50 Knts with a yacht that wasn't 100%. 9 passes over a 6 leg race with lead changes all the way. Well done Sir Ben and all your team. Luna Rossa did a great job except for their whinging protests from their helm. So look forward to see them up against the USA next Friday.π
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π Americas' Cup, a bit of good news
2 years ago by
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Absolutely excellent and exciting racing today. Couldn't beleive that American Magic went for that particular maouevre when rounding the mark - I could see something was going to go wrong from the angle they approached it but if it had come off would have been a win for them over Italy.
I love my sailing however, now confined to sailing my model yachs - IOM, DF95 and DF65.
Next rounds a week away - bring it on. β΅β΅β΅
Alan
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π Americas' Cup, a bit of good news
2 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Plenty of information this morning on BBC News plus if you want to see the races proper, go to the Americas Cup website. Great exciting racing by GB Ineos at phenomenal speeds with going into tacks at plus 40 knots and completing the tack at about 24 knots - the ultimate racing machine. Tactics were spot on especially on the 2 minute ccoutdown to the start to gain the best position across the start line. You can see the races on the A C Website as they have uploaded them to Youtube and with on board cameras and microphones you see and hear how it all pans out. A fantastic improvement on their early races pre-Christmas.
Alan
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π Masking Tape too strong or clumsy - simple solution
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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I use cheap electrical insulation tape on the hull as it stretches and can mold to the contours of the hull plus it is low tack as it is cheap. I then mask with newspaper below the tape. Next is to give a quick spray of the colour beneath the tape/masking just to seal the edge and stop paint bleeding then I spray the other hull colour over it. Before the paint is dry (just a bit tacky) I then take the tape off pulling diagonally and this seems to do the job with me. You may feel a light ridge between along the colour 'join' line and if you feel brave and while the paint is still soft, wet a finger and gently stroke along this line just to soften the edge.
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π Caldercraft vs Deans
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Caldercraft are my favourite kit build but agree about the drawings and instructions. However, I always investigate my builds first on the web to see if there are any drawings or photos of the real ship and also look at other's builds to get an idea on what you are up against. A small amount of time spent at the beginning in planning saves time in the end. The metal fittings are generally good and now seem to be sending out kits with brass stanchions rather than soft metal which is much better although the piano wire they include can be a pig to work with but getting used to that now. I think all FG hulls have issues by their very nature but Caldercraft are generally robust but might need warming to shape the top edge better.
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π Caldercraft vs Deans
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Thank you for your apology regarding Sir Kay and as you hint, many of us competent modeller are pleased with the amount of detail in the Caldercraft kit. Of late they have replaced the stanchions with brass and they now include piano wire which is a bit of a pain to use but with care and making formers first works well and is not flimsy like brass wire. As for the Aberdeen drawings they have the labelled Sir Kay wrongly inasmuch as Sir Kay is shown with paravanes - it was an acoustic minesweeper. If you look at the correct drawing which is wrongly named even that has differences to the actual ship in the only photograph I have mamaged to secure so the ship developed between the original plan signed off by the MOD and the finished article, I.e. the drawing is not an as built so to speak.
Some of us seek perfection but others build a boat that is realistic and one that can be used regularly on the water so also needs to be robust. As for Caldercraft drawings and instructions they are certainly frustrating at times but you can scale them using a bit of experience and I would not say that they are really good for new modellers but you have to start somewhere.
Alan
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π Promotion
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Well done Brian.
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π Caldercraft vs Deans
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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You cannot say that the Caldercraft GF hulls are flimsy in any way. But the Deans kits to me have always been lightweight in their nature but are very detailed and look good when built and finished correctly.
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π Caldercraft vs Deans
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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It depends on what materials you prefer to work with. My favourite is Caldercraft and their kits mainly consist of fibre glass hulls, timber decking and superstructure and white metal fittings. Whereas Deans are often fibreglass hulls and plasticard type sheet for everything else plus fittings etc.
Alan
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π Promotion
3 years ago by
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Many thanks Nerys.
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π Promotion
3 years ago by
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Many thanks - slow but sure.π
Alan
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π Promotion
3 years ago by
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Thank you Sir - much appreciated.
Alan
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π Caldercraft Northlight Clyde Puffer
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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I have used various surform tools to trim the top edge of the hull and they do not compare to doing it with a dremel.
My dremel and I think most, have variable speed controls and with care (which most modeller practice) you can complete this task quickly and without any damage to the hull. I usually mark my line with a permanent marker and take it down to the line with my dremel and then finally finish with a smooth flat file.
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π¬ Re: Robbe Atlantis
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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One of my boat club members has built the Atlantis and made a great job of it and has even included roller reefing on the jib sail. It sails superb in many wind ranges.
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π Caldercraft Northlight Clyde Puffer
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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I couldn't find a before and after trimming photo of the hull of my Northlight as I only had a photo of it once I trimmed it.
However, I did have a couple of photos of my Milford Star just to show you the difference - not so much to take off on the Milford as opposed to the Northlight though.
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π Caldercraft Northlight Clyde Puffer
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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I agree Nerys, any hull material other than a 'wood' build usually needs trimming to a certain extent, some more than others.
Alan
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π Caldercraft Northlight Clyde Puffer
3 years ago by
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I have now built 4 Caldecraft boats and on all of them I have had to trim the top edge of the hull to the correct line. Also, you may find the hull slightly distorted and you can rectify this if you warm the areas up with a hairdryer and then hold in place.
Alan
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π¬ Re: Vosper MTB 77 - Italeri kit
3 years ago by
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Thanks Martin. I see the smallest width is still 10mm which would mean cutting it down to size along the length which is feasible with a scalpel and steel straight edge. Cheers Alan
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π¬ Re: Vosper MTB 77 - Italeri kit
3 years ago by
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Thanks Nerys and Martin for the comments. Any suggestions regarding the waterproofing between the hull and the deck ? As you may know, the whole of the deck is fixed to the hull by 7 screws - there is no recess to insert a seal between both parts but wondered if there may be a thin rubber strip about 3mm by 2mm that has an adhesive backing on one side only that might be used ? I need access to the internals through the hull although I have made a small removable access to enable the BEC supply via a switch to the receiver and possibly a battery charging point.
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π Vosper MTB 77 - Italeri kit
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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π¬ Re: Aero Naut Jenny
3 years ago by
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It looks a quality build and finish - well done you.
Alan
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π Model Boats Magazine August 2020
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Rob,
Go to the Model Boats website and it is there, don't use the magazine website which directs you to Pocketmags.
The offer is for direct debit on either debit or credit card but not a lot of info of terms, etc.
Alan
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π Model Boats Magazine August 2020
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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Cheers Graham, I will have a look.
For years I had it on subscription and they did some good offers with it like a Planet 2.4 Gus transmitter, soldering iron, etc.
Alan
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π Model Boats Magazine August 2020
3 years ago by
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The August edition of Model Boats magazine was in our local Tesco stores today - only one copy though. I had a look and the content looked OK and I thought about treating myself to it as a holiday read but at almost Β£6 for a magazine decided against - 'cheapskate' I know ! That money could be more wisely spent on more bits for my boats.π
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π Arduino and model boats - zero to hero the easy way!!
3 years ago by
π¬π§ ads90 (

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I don't disagree with your comments but to get people to start using this type of technology you have to keep it simple to start with. Not everyone has an electronics or programming background so you need to take gentle steps and consider what they might want to use the Arduino for in most of their boating applications. I hope I am not generalising but not all modellers build boats that are crammed to the gunwales with electronics and apply control systems to every part of the boat. Draw people in slowly and use plain language and then you might get them 'hooked', other than that they switch off as they feel it is too 'technical' for them.
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