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Hi Colin, I think the wood for the doors is about 2mm thick, a thin strip slightly wider than 2mm of plasticard is super glued around the edge, then using wet and dry sanded flush front and back. After drilling the hole for the porthole, the whole lot was given a couple of coats of Halfords clear lacquer and the knob stuck on. 👍
Here is a photo of the doors for the main superstructure, made out of a thin piece of Oak with a surround made from plasticard, brass portholes and dolls house knobs. The watertight doors made from plasticard and the hinges also made from plasticrd with the aid of a magnifying glass 😁 I bought the two sets of portholes from MMModels as it wasn't worth the trouble of making them all, lazy I know 😜
I have made the superstructure out of plasticard as it is much easier to paint, no filling in of the grain as there is with wood. The main superstructure and the engine room structure are supposed to be as one, I am keeping these separate in the hope that I can house the switches and charging sockets under the engine structure. I only have the two photo's of this stage I'm afraid.
I forgot about this bit, it was done before the hull and decks were painted. The tubes to take the anchor chain, there is probable a proper name for these but I have no idea what it is 😡 The positions on the deck were marked off and two holes drilled slightly smaller than the plastic tube that I was going to use, the same size holes were drilled on the hull, there are markings on the hull were the anchors go. Using a small round file the holes were opened up to take the tube, a small amount of super glue to hold the tubes in position and then the plastic tubes sanded off against the hull and deck. A bit of P38 around the tubes and sanded. Job done 😁
So, here we go again. Bulwark capping, I didn't have a piece of teak wide enough to cut these out off, so two strips of teak were cut to the relevant size on the band saw and sanded. A large piece of plywood was laid on the top of the hull, the hull outline was drawn onto the plywood, blocks of wood were secured to the plywood to hold the strips of teak in place but exaggerating the curve. [To allow for spring back] The teak was soaked overnight, the next day it was soaked in boiling water a few times, whilst still hot and wet it was placed in the blocks to dry. I had to alter the blocks once to gain a bit more curve. After the strips were properly dried, the top and sides of the strips were given two coats of finishing resin and left to dry, then the underside was coated with super glue and left the dry. Then the tricky bit, wearing my best glasses I applied with the aid of a tooth pick super glue to the tops and bulwark supports and fitted the capping's. The piece around the stern was cut out of one piece and looks alright.
The deck and bulwarks were given another coat of paint, after this had dried the wash ports and rope hawsers were masked off and the hull given two coats of red primer, the water line was marked using a pencil on a block of wood, bottom part of the hull masked off and the top part given two coats of satin black. Starting to look like a boat now. The rope crate was made out of plasticard to be a good tight fit on the coaming. The bulwark positions were marked with pencil on the top of the bulwark. After cutting them all out of plasticard, each one was sanded to fit it's position, then keeping them in order and sticking them to upside down masking tape they were sprayed with paint. All the supports were glued into position with super glue, a toothpick and my best glasses.
Templates were made out of cardboard, good job that I like Weetabix, a bit of messing about but eventually I got a good fit, these were transferred onto the 3mm ply for the deck. Before fitting the deck the ply was given a couple of coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin rubbing down in-between coats, this filled in the grain ready for painting and also made it waterproof. After the glue had dried the deck and bulwark were given a coat of primere, then two coats of the finishing colour. After a week of the paint left to harden the coamings (if that's the right spelling) were glued in place.
Thanks Fred, you did pass on the information thanks, and I have read the builds. Thought I would post my build on this site as I have had a lot of help from people here. I am going to try to give a bit more detail of the build, bad bits and all. Alan
The next stage was to smooth out the Bukwarks so that a deck support could be fitted around the hull, the washports and rope hawsers were cut out, if I was to do this again I would cut these out after filling the bulwarks. P38 was used to smooth out the Bulwarks, this really was a labour of love, lots of filling and sanding. For the deck support around the hull I used 3mm lime (Ikea blinds) two layers to give 6mm support glued with Araldite. The rest of the deck supports were then glued in place, I think it was at this stage that I added the two battery placements after having the hull in the bath to work out were they had to go.
The next stage was to fit the prop tubes and motors, MMModels prop tubes and T4 motors were used. Now I will admit that getting the tubes lined up and getting them to come out of the hull nearly horizontal gave me a lot of headaches. The hull had different thicknesses and shapes of fibreglass were the motors had to be fitted, the A frame markings on the hull, especially the inboard ones were way out, all of this plus the fact that the motors had to be fitted more or less on the bottom of the hull. Aligning pieces were made on the lathe to go between the prop shafts and the motors. Motor mounts were made from hardwood and shaped on a belt sander to fit the hull bottom. I think I had about five attempts at this stage using all sorts of pieces of ply with holes in them, wooden wedges and of course masking tape. Motor mounts, I only have one photo of these, holes drilled in hardwood with a hole cutter, then cut in two on the bandsaw to give two halves that can clamp the motor, draught excluder stuck on the inside and the two halves fastened together with two wood screws.
This is a build of the LadyT from Mobile Marine Models, I am quite a way into the build now and have not taken photo's of every part of the build and I may get things a bit out of sequence, but I will do my best. The hull and a set of templates was given to me, I have found out that the templates in most cases are for guidence only. The hull is not one of the best mouldings I have had but with a bit of effort was knocked into shape. In order that the rudder could be removed from the boat for repair I glued a piece of 3mm brass strip to the hull with Araldit and P38 filler, another piece of brass with a hole to take the rudder was laid on top and two 3.3mm holes drilled through both pieces, the brass on the hull was tapped 4mm and the piece with the hole for the rudder was drilled 4mm clear and countersunck. By undoing the tiller arm and removing the two 4mm countersunk screws the rudder can be removed for repair. The rudder was made with thin ply and P38 using the drawing to make a template of the shape.
Thank you all so much for the links and information. Every day is a school day 😁 Thanks Dave for the photo's, they have thrown light on something I was not sure of 👍 I will be making the Thurl pin rack out of some hard wood and tooth picks, eventually. I have uploaded a photo (I hope) of the boat as far as I have got, its a slow build as there are a lot of little bits to make. Alan
Thanks for the reply Fred. I have looked on MMM site and found the Thurl pin rack made in white metal, can't say that it appeals to me, so I am going to make my own. It's nice of you and Doug to take an interest and I appreciate it, it's a very nice model but there is a lot of work involved in the woodwork and making of the bits. Thanks again Alan
I am building the Lady T steam tug. The drawing says that the halyards go to the Thurl pin rack, I have looked for images of these on google in order to make some and only come up with cycle racks for cars, but I have found belaying pins, would these be fitted in a rack and be the same thing as a thurl pin rack. As you will have gathered by now, I don't know what the hell I am talking about, so any help would be appreciated. Alan
Not liking to see a thread unfinished, here are the photos as promised of the finished planking. Lime planks (Ikea blinds) glued with super glue, black card for caulking, Teak edging, several coats of Halfords spray lacquer, wet and dry in between coats. Final coat rubbed down with 1200 wet and dry then cutting compound, and polished with car polish. Alan
Thanks for the replies lads, (good explanation Wayne) that's pretty much confirmed what I was thinking. The 4400mah it is then, the high C rating will help to get it up on the plane without taking too much out of the batteries. Thanks Alan
My main interest is scale boats, but I have a few fast electric, just for the adrenalin boost. The Blackjack and the Rocket reach the upper 40mph range with no problems in smooth water. The boat in question is a bit bigger and will handle rougher water. At the moment I am running it on two three cell 4000 mah 25-50c batteries, these are well used and get warm and swell. For the money I am prepared to spend for my adrenalin rush, I have the choice from Hobbyking of two 4400 mah 65-130c or two 4500 mah 35-70c batteries. I have never really quite understood the C value of these batteries. Any advice would be most welcome. Alan
Thanks for that explanation Dave, your finger must hurt after that. It will be a while before I get to the stage of making them, I like to have things clear in my head well before hand, but I will let you know how I get on. Thanks again for your help. Alan
Thanks Dave 👍 well explained 😁 I will use that method for the ladder that goes up the funnel. Perhaps my heading is a bit misleading, the others that I have to make have flat treads rather than rungs, I don't know but maybe this sort are called companionways, or something other than ladders. Thanks again Dave. Alan
Yep, Ikea wooden blinds are a good source of Lime wood, unfortunately they have stopped making that sort, so it is looking in skip times. Cut into strips and the coating sanded off are excellent for plank on frame boats, also good for deck planking and will take a stain. Alan