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📝 Dutch sailing barge
4 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 (
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Roy is right about using model railway parts. The handrail knobs are from a model engineering supplier and are intended for a 5 inch gauge loco, the actual handrail is 2mm dia. stainless steel, which just about fits the aprox. 1:10 scale that I'm working to.
As for painting, there is an initial two coats of thinned varnish and then a spray coat of a "filler primer" from Halfords. A fine modelling filler/putty is used to fill small imperfections, before rubbing down with some wet n dry. This process was repeated on two more occasions. The top coats will be completed using a spray paint from B&Q, aimed at furniture restoration. There are a selection of colours and the white is available in gloss, satin and matt finishes. The other option is car spray but tends to be glossy finish.
The red oxide, below the waterline, is a red primer from Halfords.
As for painting, there is an initial two coats of thinned varnish and then a spray coat of a "filler primer" from Halfords. A fine modelling filler/putty is used to fill small imperfections, before rubbing down with some wet n dry. This process was repeated on two more occasions. The top coats will be completed using a spray paint from B&Q, aimed at furniture restoration. There are a selection of colours and the white is available in gloss, satin and matt finishes. The other option is car spray but tends to be glossy finish.
The red oxide, below the waterline, is a red primer from Halfords.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Have used spray paints for the hull. However, varnish does come from a tin but tend decant some into a jam jar, which means that opening the tin is kept to a minimum, especially if it is being used on a daily basis. The varnish in the jam jar is thinned 50/50 with white sprit.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Before going any further with the deck and rigging, felt that the hull should be "faired" and given an initial coat of paint. In fact it ended up with three coats of primer (yellow), with some fine filler used in places, rubbing down between coats. The final overall colour will be white, with a red oxide under the water line. A initial "dusting" of white confirmed there is no conflict between the two paints.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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The roof is finished - using stainless steel for the handrail. Have also started to shape the lee boards. There is a need to think about other details, shroud fixing etc. There are a number of additional "wooden" parts that can be seen on photos of "real boats" which need to be added.
The underside of the hull needs priming and sanded smooth - think that will be the next task.
The underside of the hull needs priming and sanded smooth - think that will be the next task.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Thanks for the interest. I’ve not given up on adding a control to the Lee boards but at the moment it’s not on the “must do” list. I’ve struggled to find examples of other Dutch barge models, so it’s good to hear someone else has built one.
I’ll look at painting and finishing the cabin roof, then the next job will be the Lee boards.
I’ll look at painting and finishing the cabin roof, then the next job will be the Lee boards.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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The cabin now has a roof. This lifts off and then its possible to lift out the door and cockpit, which should provide good access to the inside of the hull.
The handrail along the edge of the roof needs to be added but I'll need some 2mm dia brass rod and will then add a further 4 supports each side.
The handrail along the edge of the roof needs to be added but I'll need some 2mm dia brass rod and will then add a further 4 supports each side.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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A bought a pack of three capacitors, so will have the option, currently working on cockpit floor, door and finishing rudder.
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📝 Karoline, Dutch potato boat.
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 8 Views · 1 Like
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Lovely model, sorry to see the damage. Interesting to learn more about how you built the hull. Am currently building a similar boat and the shape of the hull has proved a “challenge” to build.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 41 Views · 9 Likes
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Been a bit distracted recently but have now wired the RC system together and decided how it will fit in the boat. Still need to add a fuse and capacitors for the motor but it does all work.
Made some card templates for the pieces of deck, before making and fitting the final pieces.
Made some card templates for the pieces of deck, before making and fitting the final pieces.
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📝 Karoline,
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 20 Views · 3 Likes
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A great looking model and pleasing to see a traditional sailing boat being built. Be interesting to see how well it sails and how you’ve set the sail controls up.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 37 Views · 3 Likes
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Thanks
The next step is to get the rudder and sail servos in and working, along with the motor control. That will use all the controls up on the Rx/Rc. Not using the motor control would make room for a servo/winch for the Lee boards. Decisions ?
Unfortunately I don’t subscribe to Facebook etc but thanks for the suggestion
The next step is to get the rudder and sail servos in and working, along with the motor control. That will use all the controls up on the Rx/Rc. Not using the motor control would make room for a servo/winch for the Lee boards. Decisions ?
Unfortunately I don’t subscribe to Facebook etc but thanks for the suggestion
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Thanks Alessandro. Slightly to my surprise - I've struggled to find other models of Dutch barges - a few YouTube clips and that's it. There is more information about the building of model Thames Barges, which are similar in design to the Dutch version. These models seem to use a rudder extension and additional keel, I have designed/built the hull to incorporate a bolt on keel, just in case. It would be nice to avoid both of these and allow the use of the lee boards as on the full size boat.
It could be possible to use a sail winch mounted sides ways, so the lee boards could be raised and lifted, on a push/pull arrangement - but the boards would need to be weighted to ensure they dropped as the line from the winch was eased. The other option would just have them adjustable and made so they could be fixed in a down position.
All ideas to be considered.
It could be possible to use a sail winch mounted sides ways, so the lee boards could be raised and lifted, on a push/pull arrangement - but the boards would need to be weighted to ensure they dropped as the line from the winch was eased. The other option would just have them adjustable and made so they could be fixed in a down position.
All ideas to be considered.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Here's a couple of photos with the outer gunwales fitted and topsides trimmed, which shows the true shape of the hull.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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A little bit of progress. The rudder is fitted, along with the servo. The green/yellow acrylic extension is easy to remove but should improve the rudders performance, it can be shortened if the current size proves to big.
The topsides are made from 1.5mm thick plywood. The line of the gunwale has been marked out and this will be glued in place, before the excess plywood is trimmed off.
Currently thinking about where/how the two sail winch arms will be fitted - the plan is to use two HiTec 765's. The roof of the cabin will be removable, as will the the cockpit - but have yet to decide how to achieve this.
The topsides are made from 1.5mm thick plywood. The line of the gunwale has been marked out and this will be glued in place, before the excess plywood is trimmed off.
Currently thinking about where/how the two sail winch arms will be fitted - the plan is to use two HiTec 765's. The roof of the cabin will be removable, as will the the cockpit - but have yet to decide how to achieve this.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
8 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Making mistakes - the greatest learning tool?
Colour? White initially, then perhaps red oxide or black under the water line. Think the rubbing strake will black, but that’s all along way off. A few coats of white and lots of rubbing down will be needed first.
Next task, the rudder and operation via a servo.
Colour? White initially, then perhaps red oxide or black under the water line. Think the rubbing strake will black, but that’s all along way off. A few coats of white and lots of rubbing down will be needed first.
Next task, the rudder and operation via a servo.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
8 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 65 Views · 11 Likes
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So I'm glad that Dutch barges do not have a varnish finish, such as a classic carvel built yacht. Some sanding and Isopon P38 meant the hull was reasonably "fair". However, the planking is only 1.5mm thick, so added a layer of glass fibre tissue with West Epoxy. Once cured this was sanded smooth, with some smaller marks filled with P38, before a final sand. An initial coat of thinned varnish has now been applied. The plan is to give a few more coats before another fine sand. The hull will be finally painted - not certain what colour yet.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
8 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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I assume a second layer of planking may smooth things out but it seems reasonable at the moment and with some sanding and filler it should be ok. To be honest, I found the planking a little frustrating and not my greatest pleasure - so one layer will have to do !
Thanks for the video Ross - interesting but the challenge on a Dutch barge (or similar) is the bow, where the planks have to bend round 90 degrees, as the bow has the cross-section of a football, rather than a fine cutting edge, as found on a classic J class yacht.
Thanks for the video Ross - interesting but the challenge on a Dutch barge (or similar) is the bow, where the planks have to bend round 90 degrees, as the bow has the cross-section of a football, rather than a fine cutting edge, as found on a classic J class yacht.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
8 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 55 Views · 8 Likes
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Have managed to finish the planking - not a perfect result - but the next task will be some filler and sanding, on the outside, to try and get a reasonably fair hull shape. Have coated the inside with some West epoxy, this should fill any gaps between the planks - chalking - and give improve the strength.
I'd be interested to see how the planking is completed on the full size version, as it seems they use fewer but wider planks.
I'd be interested to see how the planking is completed on the full size version, as it seems they use fewer but wider planks.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Using a motor? - Certainly useful to beat a falling tide when coming into a drying harbour.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 57 Views · 6 Likes
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Originally there had be no intention to include a motorised prop, the plan being for just a propeller on a false shaft for pure aesthetic reasons. It is a sailing boat and I’ll admit to having no interest in powered craft.
However, as we should always be interested in learning new things, the decision was made to add the auxiliary power source. The actual prop size is currently 40mm, which just fits. I look some advice and the motor size was recommended, as was the specification for the speed controller. The motor/prop will only need to move the boat slowly when there is no wind, but that is along way off yet and we need to remember it is a sailing boat.
You can still hire sailing cruisers on the Norfolk Broads that do not have a motor. Such joy and thus skill needed.
However, as we should always be interested in learning new things, the decision was made to add the auxiliary power source. The actual prop size is currently 40mm, which just fits. I look some advice and the motor size was recommended, as was the specification for the speed controller. The motor/prop will only need to move the boat slowly when there is no wind, but that is along way off yet and we need to remember it is a sailing boat.
You can still hire sailing cruisers on the Norfolk Broads that do not have a motor. Such joy and thus skill needed.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 59 Views · 8 Likes
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Six Planks - however the challenge is yet to come. As the bow rises in the front third of the boat, the space between the flat bottom and side rubbing strake increases. This will create a problem - which will need to be filled with some additional tapered planks. Unless anyone else has some ideas?
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Started the planking - something I have no experience of. The barge hasn't the fine lines of a classic J class yacht, so the planks for bow/stern do need some pre bending. Have completed the top two planks, not perfect but plan to add a coat of west epoxy, before sanding smooth. The planks are visible on full size/real boat, so am happy for some planking lines on the model.
Decided to add the flat bottom, from 1.5mm ply, an initial paper template helped get the shape close, before final fitting. Plan is to then add two lines of planks at the bottom, before completing the rest.
Decided to add the flat bottom, from 1.5mm ply, an initial paper template helped get the shape close, before final fitting. Plan is to then add two lines of planks at the bottom, before completing the rest.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Decided to add a motor, as auxiliary power, have no experience of such things but have bought a speed controller as well. Its only for when the wind totally disappears and there's also one on the "real boat".
The plan is to have an additional/detachable keel, which will be bolted through the brass tube. Still thinking about the linkage for the rudder but will get it fitted before any planking is added. However, there is a slot in the underside of the rudder, so this can be extended while sailing, which should increase its control.
The plan is to have an additional/detachable keel, which will be bolted through the brass tube. Still thinking about the linkage for the rudder but will get it fitted before any planking is added. However, there is a slot in the underside of the rudder, so this can be extended while sailing, which should increase its control.
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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After some distractions - have now made a start actually making the barge. The next stage is some "fine tweaking" of the frames, so there is a nice smooth line along the chine and gunwale. Its not until you get the basic frames in place, do actually realise how tight the bow is curved. Have tried some "thin" wood/planks as a test and things to seem achievable.
However, some decisions are needed about the rudder, this will need a removable piece to be used while sailing, which is quite easy to achieve but its the lower rudder bearing (pintle) that needs some thinking about. There is length of brass, 1/2 inch wide, that will form the bottom of the keel. This will add some weight low down and keep the wooden keel straight, as well as protected. It will form part of the lower rudder bearing.
However, some decisions are needed about the rudder, this will need a removable piece to be used while sailing, which is quite easy to achieve but its the lower rudder bearing (pintle) that needs some thinking about. There is length of brass, 1/2 inch wide, that will form the bottom of the keel. This will add some weight low down and keep the wooden keel straight, as well as protected. It will form part of the lower rudder bearing.
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💬 Re: Hansjolle
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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This photo shows how the servos are fitted. The long armed servo controls the jib and with 2:1 ratio, there is just enough movement, so the jib can move from one side to another.
The servo controlling the mainsail is top left and uses a 3:1 ratio on the sheet and this creates enough travel to allow the mainsail to move out while sailing downwind.
The third servo controls the rudder. I use a FlySky FS-i6 transmitter.
The servo controlling the mainsail is top left and uses a 3:1 ratio on the sheet and this creates enough travel to allow the mainsail to move out while sailing downwind.
The third servo controls the rudder. I use a FlySky FS-i6 transmitter.
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💬 Re: Hansjolle
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Hi Alessandro - I tried the paste/return, but no change. There must be away of making the text/web address into a direct link. It does seem to work if you cut and paste, not ideal I appreciate.
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💬 Re: Hansjolle
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Hi Alessandro
Thanks
Sorry the link doesn’t work, could someone please explain how to create a direct link from a post as I couldn’t work this out? I notice some contributors manage to embed a video into their post.
Thanks
Sorry the link doesn’t work, could someone please explain how to create a direct link from a post as I couldn’t work this out? I notice some contributors manage to embed a video into their post.
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📝 Hansjolle
10 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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The Hansa dinghy was introduced in 1947 by Henry Rasmussen, founder of the renowned boatyard Abeking & Rasmussen (A&R). During the post war years there there was an Allied ban on larger new boats. The Hansa is really a keel boat with a fixed keel and has a draught of 50 cm. The ballast keel is 150 kg and the beam is 1.65 meters, which gives good stability, but still has the character of a dinghy. The boat is 5.85 m long, and was designed to be a small, safe cruising boat for inland and coastal waters.
This model is made from an Aeronaut kit. It has three servos, rudder, mainsail and jib. This means the model needs to be sailed "properly", changing the jib as you tack and trimming each sail to ensure the boat sails well. Its quite enjoyable to sail.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=AENF9UBeGWY
This model is made from an Aeronaut kit. It has three servos, rudder, mainsail and jib. This means the model needs to be sailed "properly", changing the jib as you tack and trimming each sail to ensure the boat sails well. Its quite enjoyable to sail.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=AENF9UBeGWY
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📝 Hansjolle
12 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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The Hansa dinghy was introduced in 1947 by Henry Rasmussen and a kit is available from German manufacturers Aeronaut, the hull is 940mm long.
Have made some reasonable progress so far and would be interested in hearing from anyone else who has built one of these kits, especially concerning the ballast.
The kit contains a plastic keel, which I have replaced with one made from 3mm stainless steel, to add some weight low down. The hull shape allows for lead shot and resin to be added, as on the real boat. The kit also does suggest an added "clamp on" weight to the end of the keel, which I'm planning to do. I'll drill a small hole in the lower area of the keel and use a two piece weight that can be clamped around the keel, with a pin going through the hole, to ensure the weight can not drop off. This is most likely to be made from brass.
Its the relative weight of the keel and lead shot that needs to be considered. Current thinking, is to add the weight to the keel, do a float test, with batteries and RC equipment etc on board, and then add lead shot to bring the boat down to its water line and correct trim.
I have found a couple of "build blogs" on German sites, but they seem to follow the instructions and just add lead shot in the bottom of the hull.
Any other suggestions or experiences? - thanks
Have made some reasonable progress so far and would be interested in hearing from anyone else who has built one of these kits, especially concerning the ballast.
The kit contains a plastic keel, which I have replaced with one made from 3mm stainless steel, to add some weight low down. The hull shape allows for lead shot and resin to be added, as on the real boat. The kit also does suggest an added "clamp on" weight to the end of the keel, which I'm planning to do. I'll drill a small hole in the lower area of the keel and use a two piece weight that can be clamped around the keel, with a pin going through the hole, to ensure the weight can not drop off. This is most likely to be made from brass.
Its the relative weight of the keel and lead shot that needs to be considered. Current thinking, is to add the weight to the keel, do a float test, with batteries and RC equipment etc on board, and then add lead shot to bring the boat down to its water line and correct trim.
I have found a couple of "build blogs" on German sites, but they seem to follow the instructions and just add lead shot in the bottom of the hull.
Any other suggestions or experiences? - thanks
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📝 Dutch sailing barge
12 months ago by 🇬🇧 AndyB2 ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Some progress :
Obtained a copy of the "Dutch Yacht" plans, having scanned these, it was possible to "double" the size, so the planned model should be 37 inches long and 12 inches beam. The article in the 1975 issue of model boat is quite short but interesting, as is a book "The Dutch Barge" - more historical but does provide some information.
Just need to start - what could go wrong ?
Obtained a copy of the "Dutch Yacht" plans, having scanned these, it was possible to "double" the size, so the planned model should be 37 inches long and 12 inches beam. The article in the 1975 issue of model boat is quite short but interesting, as is a book "The Dutch Barge" - more historical but does provide some information.
Just need to start - what could go wrong ?
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