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Liked 08 Balsa bow 1 year ago
Liked Star Yachts, Birkenhead 2 years ago
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Liked Star Yachts, Birkenhead 2 years ago
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📝 The Balsa Bow Blocks
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS (
Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Another stage I felt quite apprehensive about, most of what I had read said the shaping of the balsa was tricky.
I have mentioned previously that there was a slight deviation in the supplied parts and instructions for this stage. There were 2 over large bow shaped blocks and a thin rectangular piece to increase the height in the centre. I was advised, on this forum, to position the top piece with the grain in the same direction as the block....which of course I did.
Positioning, glueing and clamping was quite simple, although I did realise (too late to change) that I missed putting glue between the 2 blocks! Fortunately there's enough glue elsewhere and the top piece ensured a good bond.
Now the shaping.....I'd read several different techniques to do this, I started with trying to cut it with a sharp craft knife, which worked (sort of) but only removed a very small bit each cut and would have taken forever to complete.
So I cheated a little and used a multi tool/sander attachment, which (for me) worked really well and gave much better accuracy and speed.
I used the front part of the assembled keel as a template, which helped shape the centre of the blocks, but the edges still had to be shaped by eye. I will admit to having to use a little filler to completely fit the keel.
I couldn't glue the back end of the keel on yet, as the instructions said that the prop shaft had to be fixed in place prior to doing it.
I have mentioned previously that there was a slight deviation in the supplied parts and instructions for this stage. There were 2 over large bow shaped blocks and a thin rectangular piece to increase the height in the centre. I was advised, on this forum, to position the top piece with the grain in the same direction as the block....which of course I did.
Positioning, glueing and clamping was quite simple, although I did realise (too late to change) that I missed putting glue between the 2 blocks! Fortunately there's enough glue elsewhere and the top piece ensured a good bond.
Now the shaping.....I'd read several different techniques to do this, I started with trying to cut it with a sharp craft knife, which worked (sort of) but only removed a very small bit each cut and would have taken forever to complete.
So I cheated a little and used a multi tool/sander attachment, which (for me) worked really well and gave much better accuracy and speed.
I used the front part of the assembled keel as a template, which helped shape the centre of the blocks, but the edges still had to be shaped by eye. I will admit to having to use a little filler to completely fit the keel.
I couldn't glue the back end of the keel on yet, as the instructions said that the prop shaft had to be fixed in place prior to doing it.
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📝 Star Yachts, Birkenhead
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Thanks Chaps for your reminiscences, there certainly is a lot of interest about them on the net and the 'Appreciation' website (link in earlier post) is well worth a browse.
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📝 Boat Show
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Hi Derek, I found this on Google, appears your fears were correct,
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📝 Star Yachts, Birkenhead
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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How it should look....!
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📝 Star Yachts, Birkenhead
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Whilst putting the garden furniture to bed and having a bit of a clear out of the bike shed, I came across what remains of my kids old sailing yacht. I must have bought it for them in the late 70's/early 80's. There's not a lot of it left (see pic) and it was covered in expanded foam (a can exploded in the shed).
I cleaned it up with some fine wire wool and white spirit and discovered the makers badge, 'Star Yachts of Birkenhead'.
I did a Google search and was amazed to see so much information about the company. There's even an appreciation society (birkenheadstaryachts.co.uk) which offered to identify and date said yachts. I gave it a go, sent a pic and dimensions and within a couple of hours had a reply from Graham, who runs it. Apart from the id service, he provides restoration information and many spare parts.
Whilst I realise that this isn't a model boat/kit I found it very interesting and when I eventually finish my current project, hopefully will try and restore it to its former self.
I cleaned it up with some fine wire wool and white spirit and discovered the makers badge, 'Star Yachts of Birkenhead'.
I did a Google search and was amazed to see so much information about the company. There's even an appreciation society (birkenheadstaryachts.co.uk) which offered to identify and date said yachts. I gave it a go, sent a pic and dimensions and within a couple of hours had a reply from Graham, who runs it. Apart from the id service, he provides restoration information and many spare parts.
Whilst I realise that this isn't a model boat/kit I found it very interesting and when I eventually finish my current project, hopefully will try and restore it to its former self.
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📝 Hull glassing?
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Thanks Colin, amazing story, I'll update my wife, she's a sucker for stories like that, especially if they involve 'woofs'.
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📝 Hull glassing?
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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PS My wife just looked over my shoulder (nosey) and wants to know what you have on your shoulder in your avatar!
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📝 Hull glassing?
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Thanks for that Colin, think I've got it.
That one piece you cut for the keel and first 1/2'' of hull either side, presumably folds/bends over the bottom edge of the keel?
Sorry if I've misunderstood, but this is my first build!
Thanks again, Andy
That one piece you cut for the keel and first 1/2'' of hull either side, presumably folds/bends over the bottom edge of the keel?
Sorry if I've misunderstood, but this is my first build!
Thanks again, Andy
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📝 Hull glassing?
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Quick question; just about to glass the hull (using the Ezi-cote option, not sure if that makes a difference?)
Do I put the cloth on the keel as well? If so (I suspect that you do) do you cut a separate piece or pieces or make a fold/crease in the bottom cloth where the keel joins the hull?🤔
Do I put the cloth on the keel as well? If so (I suspect that you do) do you cut a separate piece or pieces or make a fold/crease in the bottom cloth where the keel joins the hull?🤔
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Colin H
📝 USS Fort Henry (U.S. Civil War era gunboat)
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 29 Views · 1 Like
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Just out of interest, I was lucky enough to visit Vicksburg National Military Park a few years ago and I remember seeing an amazing US Civil War gunboat, The USS Cairo, that had been salvaged from the river bed. I have a photo of it, that doesn't do it justice, but I would think a model of it would be amazing.
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📝 Bottom and rear skins....
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 78 Views · 8 Likes · 2 Comments
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I'm still following Michael's and Rob's blogs quite closely and apart from their 'off piste' improvements, probably will be to the end of this project.
Although the supplied instructions are comprehensive in telling you what to do, they don't often tell you how!
Having completed the side skins without too many problems, I wasn't as apprehensive starting this stage. Before fitting the skins, I made sure the formers were level and in line to prevent bumps and dips in them. I made a template for the bow former, so that I could shape them to the same size and shape.
Also, I had to install the under deck wiring as there would be no access after the skins were in place. I also added some pull throughs in the tubes, just in case. I had to consult my son on the placement of the main wires, battery and rudder servo, he's quite an expert on all things r/c.
The bottom skins were fitted in much the same way as the sides, steamed (kettle fashion) positioned, marked, excess removed, glued, drilled/pinned and clamped in place. The only difference was that I decided to use epoxy, stronger I think?
I did them one at a time and when set, I planed and sanded them to size. The aft skin was fitted in exactly the same way.
In all I was quite pleased with my work, I feel I am improving my technique, accuracy and confidence.
Although the supplied instructions are comprehensive in telling you what to do, they don't often tell you how!
Having completed the side skins without too many problems, I wasn't as apprehensive starting this stage. Before fitting the skins, I made sure the formers were level and in line to prevent bumps and dips in them. I made a template for the bow former, so that I could shape them to the same size and shape.
Also, I had to install the under deck wiring as there would be no access after the skins were in place. I also added some pull throughs in the tubes, just in case. I had to consult my son on the placement of the main wires, battery and rudder servo, he's quite an expert on all things r/c.
The bottom skins were fitted in much the same way as the sides, steamed (kettle fashion) positioned, marked, excess removed, glued, drilled/pinned and clamped in place. The only difference was that I decided to use epoxy, stronger I think?
I did them one at a time and when set, I planed and sanded them to size. The aft skin was fitted in exactly the same way.
In all I was quite pleased with my work, I feel I am improving my technique, accuracy and confidence.
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📝 SKINS cont (submitted early in error)
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 85 Views · 5 Likes
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Cont: Before gluing the skin in place, I re-steamed it, then using the locator tacks, glued, clamped and pinned it in place.
After drying all seemed fine, made a little bit of a bodge where the skin right at the bow join didn't look right.....sandable I think?
I repeated the above (bar the bending...kettle this time) producing a far better outcome than the first one.
Planing and sanding both skins to size went well and in the end I felt it wasn't a bad first time attempt. I certainly learned a lot for any future project!
After drying all seemed fine, made a little bit of a bodge where the skin right at the bow join didn't look right.....sandable I think?
I repeated the above (bar the bending...kettle this time) producing a far better outcome than the first one.
Planing and sanding both skins to size went well and in the end I felt it wasn't a bad first time attempt. I certainly learned a lot for any future project!
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📝 SIDE SKINS.......
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 85 Views · 1 Like
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Whilst I was looking forward to the experience of 'bending' the skins to the shape of the hull, I have to say that I was more than a little nervous when it came to starting this part.
Having read the previous blogs of making this model I had a good idea of what to do and they really helped and gave me confidence.
I started by checking that all the formers were level and in line, gently sanding where necessary.
Next I heated the bow end of the skin with a heat gun and sprayed water onto a cloth covering (afraid of scorching it). It did make the
ply more pliable, but it took a while to do. With the second skin I used the kettle method, which was much quicker and less likely to mark.
Firstly, I positioned the skin onto the hull side. It was quite a bit larger and I tried to leave an even margin all round. I then clamped it in place and when satisfied with the position I drilled a small hole at each end and hammered in brass tacks to act as locators.
On the skin I pencilled the outline and the position of the formers etc.. I was then able to cut away most of the excess skin and drill 1mm pin holes in for fixing to the formers.
BIG mistake here, not discovered until much later and hopefully rectifiable. Without realising it, the excess I cut away included the high bits at the bow with the rope notch (did this on both sides)! Just realised why, the plan shows the skin edges flush with the chines. There are a couple of separate 'rope gunwhale' parts in the kit that I think I can use?
Before gluing the skin in place, I re-steamed
Having read the previous blogs of making this model I had a good idea of what to do and they really helped and gave me confidence.
I started by checking that all the formers were level and in line, gently sanding where necessary.
Next I heated the bow end of the skin with a heat gun and sprayed water onto a cloth covering (afraid of scorching it). It did make the
ply more pliable, but it took a while to do. With the second skin I used the kettle method, which was much quicker and less likely to mark.
Firstly, I positioned the skin onto the hull side. It was quite a bit larger and I tried to leave an even margin all round. I then clamped it in place and when satisfied with the position I drilled a small hole at each end and hammered in brass tacks to act as locators.
On the skin I pencilled the outline and the position of the formers etc.. I was then able to cut away most of the excess skin and drill 1mm pin holes in for fixing to the formers.
BIG mistake here, not discovered until much later and hopefully rectifiable. Without realising it, the excess I cut away included the high bits at the bow with the rope notch (did this on both sides)! Just realised why, the plan shows the skin edges flush with the chines. There are a couple of separate 'rope gunwhale' parts in the kit that I think I can use?
Before gluing the skin in place, I re-steamed
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📝 Work stand
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 64 Views · 1 Like
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Glad it works for you Neil, mine has been great, although I need to change the base.
The only flat piece of wood I had was some 5mm mdf, but it's not really sturdy/heavy enough, so must get some thick ply.
All the best Andy
The only flat piece of wood I had was some 5mm mdf, but it's not really sturdy/heavy enough, so must get some thick ply.
All the best Andy
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neilmc
📝 Bow blocks....
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 95 Views · 2 Likes
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Hi Chaps, thanks for your input, I'll certainly do it the way you suggest.
Rob, the keel is supplied in 6mm ply, made up of 4 pieces. The photo shows the front 3, that I'll use to assist shaping the balsa bow blocks.
Rob, the keel is supplied in 6mm ply, made up of 4 pieces. The photo shows the front 3, that I'll use to assist shaping the balsa bow blocks.
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📝 Tubes/conduits and balsa blocks
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 99 Views · 4 Likes · 3 Comments
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Thanks Michael, yes I installed some clear plastic tubes through which I've fed some pull throughs, the main battery wires and the rudder servo wires, prior to attaching the bottom skins.
I was in a quandary, looking ahead at the step after the skins, which is the balsa block prow/bow. Whereas you had a single block (of balsa) and Rob had to laminate several layers, my kit has 2 bow over size shaped blocks. However, when I positioned them they were shorter than the height of the keel? I remembered from checking the contents on delivery, that there were a few pieces which weren't identified on the list, one being a thinnish rectangular piece with number 3 on it. Having spoken with the nice man at VMW, he confirmed my suspicions that No 3 was part of the bow block set, its addition to give it the necessary height. Apparently, it's a new change and they haven't got round to updating the parts list, instructions or plan.
Now the question is, which way is the best way to orientate the top piece (No 3) or doesn't it matter? I've never carved/shaped balsa before.
I was in a quandary, looking ahead at the step after the skins, which is the balsa block prow/bow. Whereas you had a single block (of balsa) and Rob had to laminate several layers, my kit has 2 bow over size shaped blocks. However, when I positioned them they were shorter than the height of the keel? I remembered from checking the contents on delivery, that there were a few pieces which weren't identified on the list, one being a thinnish rectangular piece with number 3 on it. Having spoken with the nice man at VMW, he confirmed my suspicions that No 3 was part of the bow block set, its addition to give it the necessary height. Apparently, it's a new change and they haven't got round to updating the parts list, instructions or plan.
Now the question is, which way is the best way to orientate the top piece (No 3) or doesn't it matter? I've never carved/shaped balsa before.
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📝 The Chines.....
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 114 Views · 7 Likes · 2 Comments
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There are 4 chines, 2 upper and 2 lower and each come in 3 separate parts, which have to be glued together prior to fixing to the formers.
As said in previous posts and blogs, although the instructions direct that the parts be pinned to the plan to join them, it isn't actually necessary as they are laser cut so accurately.
So, when set the chines were attached to the formers. I did the bottom set first and when dry the top 2. They fitted very easily, with just a little sanding/rounding where the top set met the front former (F1).
Then I pinned and glued several small detail pieces which give shape to the stern and deck.
The 'box', has now suddenly taken on a boat shape and I'm very pleased to have got this far without a major catastrophe! However, I see the 'skins' ahead and steaming and fixing them looks very daunting!
Think I've downloaded the pics in reverse order...😋
As said in previous posts and blogs, although the instructions direct that the parts be pinned to the plan to join them, it isn't actually necessary as they are laser cut so accurately.
So, when set the chines were attached to the formers. I did the bottom set first and when dry the top 2. They fitted very easily, with just a little sanding/rounding where the top set met the front former (F1).
Then I pinned and glued several small detail pieces which give shape to the stern and deck.
The 'box', has now suddenly taken on a boat shape and I'm very pleased to have got this far without a major catastrophe! However, I see the 'skins' ahead and steaming and fixing them looks very daunting!
Think I've downloaded the pics in reverse order...😋
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📝 Bulkhead Formers
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 126 Views · 3 Likes
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Next stage, the bulkhead formers, there are 6 sets mostly made up of 4 parts: 2 attached either side of the keel and the other 2 to the sides of box, aligned along the laser markings on the box, another 2 pieces fit on the front of the keel.
I thought I'd copy Michael's idea of providing conduits for the wiring, but instead of 'homemade tubes', I used some flexible plastic 8mm tubing I had.
However, I started with another schoolboy error (see photo). Having drilled the holes for the tubing through 3 bottom formers (at the same time) a trial fitting (before gluing) proved that the middle one was out of line due to the thickened laminated part of the keel! I was fortunate that this was the side of the keel that only required the shorter tube. So after a bit of filling/sanding and re-drilling all formers pinned and glued as necessary.
I thought I'd copy Michael's idea of providing conduits for the wiring, but instead of 'homemade tubes', I used some flexible plastic 8mm tubing I had.
However, I started with another schoolboy error (see photo). Having drilled the holes for the tubing through 3 bottom formers (at the same time) a trial fitting (before gluing) proved that the middle one was out of line due to the thickened laminated part of the keel! I was fortunate that this was the side of the keel that only required the shorter tube. So after a bit of filling/sanding and re-drilling all formers pinned and glued as necessary.
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📝 Work stand
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 88 Views · 1 Like
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Sorry, meant to add a thank you to all those who offered their advice and experience on this post.
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neilmc
📝 Work stand
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 88 Views · 1 Like
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Yes strongly agree with you Neil, I also purchased a set on Ebay which weren't expensive and arrived really quickly. Sold (and presumably made by) H.A Kits, mine is XL and is constructed in 6mm ply, laser cut in a sheet plus nuts/bolts. You provide your own base.
Finding it very useful in building my 36'' Police Launch.
Finding it very useful in building my 36'' Police Launch.
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neilmc
📝 Work stand
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 126 Views · 1 Like
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Thanks guys, I'll have a look at both, they seem to be what I need.
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📝 Work stand
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 132 Views · 1 Like
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I'm getting to the stage of my build when I have to have some better support whilst working on it. Up to now the inverted box has supported the keel and bulkhead work, but I'll have to turn it on its keel soon.
I've tried a forum search, but only found stands for storage/displaying, any ideas for a simple, strong structure would be much appreciated?
I've tried a forum search, but only found stands for storage/displaying, any ideas for a simple, strong structure would be much appreciated?
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RonH
📝 Keel
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 129 Views · 5 Likes
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So, apart from the small hiccup over the drilling of the prop-shaft hole (thanks to Michael) the construction of the keel went very smoothly.
I drilled an 8mm wide rectangular hole, the length of the gap between the 2 parts of keel, as shown on the plan.
As said previously the laser cutting is so accurate, apart from sanding the nibs, the various keel parts can be pinned and glued together quite easily. Similarly, the 2 made up sections of the keel are then glued to the centre of the bottom of the box.
The keel is then strengthened around the prop-shaft hole and rear of the box (rudder?) by laminating.
Please excuse my lack of technical knowledge and vocabulary!
I drilled an 8mm wide rectangular hole, the length of the gap between the 2 parts of keel, as shown on the plan.
As said previously the laser cutting is so accurate, apart from sanding the nibs, the various keel parts can be pinned and glued together quite easily. Similarly, the 2 made up sections of the keel are then glued to the centre of the bottom of the box.
The keel is then strengthened around the prop-shaft hole and rear of the box (rudder?) by laminating.
Please excuse my lack of technical knowledge and vocabulary!
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📝 36 inch VMW Police Launch
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 26 Views · 0 Likes
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Thanks for that Michael........I'll take that on board...
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📝 36 inch VMW Police Launch
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Hi Michael, I'm starting the next stage now, the bulkhead formers. As already mentioned, I'm planning to use some flexible plastic tube I have for the wiring as in your blog. So having removed the formers from the sheet and de-nibbed them, I'm planning to drill the 10mm holes. I just thought before I did, I would check with you if the amount of conduit you did worked out the right amount, could you have done with less or more? Thanks Andy
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📝 36 inch VMW Police Launch
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Hi Michael, yes I think I've done it correctly now.
I've attached all the keel pieces, including the laminated strengtheners and tomorrow I hope to move onto the next stage, the bulkhead formers.
I have some 8mm (hole) plastic pipe, which I hope I can use for the underneath wires, instead of making your custom made pipes! I'll update the blog at the weekend.
Thanks again for your help!
I've attached all the keel pieces, including the laminated strengtheners and tomorrow I hope to move onto the next stage, the bulkhead formers.
I have some 8mm (hole) plastic pipe, which I hope I can use for the underneath wires, instead of making your custom made pipes! I'll update the blog at the weekend.
Thanks again for your help!
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📝 36 inch VMW Police Launch
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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Sorry, firstly I'm not sure if you are a Mike or a Michael, I've seen both used on the forums.
Thanks for your post, which I have only just seen as I've been busy typing one and trying to attach pictures (not very successfully) and our posts have crossed......
I have been consulting your blog and have scanned through it, but obviously missed that. Probably because I've been concentrating on the first steps.
I think my result is similar to your advice, if a little long winded and unnecessarily complicated.
Thanks again for your advice, I'm sure I'll be askin for some more soon!
Thanks for your post, which I have only just seen as I've been busy typing one and trying to attach pictures (not very successfully) and our posts have crossed......
I have been consulting your blog and have scanned through it, but obviously missed that. Probably because I've been concentrating on the first steps.
I think my result is similar to your advice, if a little long winded and unnecessarily complicated.
Thanks again for your advice, I'm sure I'll be askin for some more soon!
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📝 36 inch VMW Police Launch
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 39 Views · 0 Likes
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I've worked on this most of the afternoon, unfortunately I had no luck finding an answer on YouTube or elsewhere.
I eventually worked out, that by mocking up the 'hole area' of the box base with a spare piece of ply, that 3x 8mm close drilled holes and careful filing/sanding the angled ends, makes the right size prop shaft hole.....probably.
By placing the 'proxy' ply on the plan and putting a pencil through the hole, it appears to be the correct size and angle.
My son, who makes models (but not boats) thinks the prop shaft would probably be a 9inch/228mm M4 ?
I'll have a go at it tomorrow, so that I can continue fixing the keel.
I eventually worked out, that by mocking up the 'hole area' of the box base with a spare piece of ply, that 3x 8mm close drilled holes and careful filing/sanding the angled ends, makes the right size prop shaft hole.....probably.
By placing the 'proxy' ply on the plan and putting a pencil through the hole, it appears to be the correct size and angle.
My son, who makes models (but not boats) thinks the prop shaft would probably be a 9inch/228mm M4 ?
I'll have a go at it tomorrow, so that I can continue fixing the keel.
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📝 VINTAGE MODEL WORKS 36'' THAMES POLICE LAUNCH (2022)
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 157 Views · 4 Likes · 1 Comment
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Well the heat has subsided and I am able to get back into the shed....I mean workshop and make a start on this model.
I've studied the plans, the directions and a couple of blogs on this site (Robob's & mturpin's) for the same model.
The first small difference is that the base of the box now comes in one piece of 6mm ply.
Initially I found cutting the nibs of the ply sides quite hard, there isn't a lot of blade room, but I found a firm cut with a Stanley knife worked well.
The box was then glued, pinned and clamped and checked for square.
I've made a start on the keel, but at the moment I'm unsure about drilling the prop shaft hole.
I've studied the plans, the directions and a couple of blogs on this site (Robob's & mturpin's) for the same model.
The first small difference is that the base of the box now comes in one piece of 6mm ply.
Initially I found cutting the nibs of the ply sides quite hard, there isn't a lot of blade room, but I found a firm cut with a Stanley knife worked well.
The box was then glued, pinned and clamped and checked for square.
I've made a start on the keel, but at the moment I'm unsure about drilling the prop shaft hole.
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stevedownunder
robbob
KeithL
Colin H
📝 36 inch VMW Police Launch
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 AndyS ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)
Petty Officer 2nd Class)✧ 74 Views · 2 Likes
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I have just started building the above kit and as mentioned in my intro, I have no model making experience.
As well as using the provided instructions and plan, I've been referring to mturpin's blog of the same model, which is very helpful.
I haven't got very far, box built and keel parts glued together, but not yet attached.
First problem, the instructions say drill a hole for the prop shaft, but I'm not sure exactly where to, what angle, or what size hole. I haven't got a prop shaft yet, its being sourced by my son...possibly M4?
Any help, directions would be much appreciated.
As well as using the provided instructions and plan, I've been referring to mturpin's blog of the same model, which is very helpful.
I haven't got very far, box built and keel parts glued together, but not yet attached.
First problem, the instructions say drill a hole for the prop shaft, but I'm not sure exactly where to, what angle, or what size hole. I haven't got a prop shaft yet, its being sourced by my son...possibly M4?
Any help, directions would be much appreciated.
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KeithL
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