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HI Oldtimer Suggest next time you see the prats who laughed at you, that you guide them to this website where they might learn something. I really cant believe this happened to you, any decent member of our community would never have treated you in such a disgusting way. Personally I run 4 boats on 3 x Planet 2.4g Transmitters all with brushed motors which all came from old cordless power tools and never had any problems. I also sell via eBay Model boat motor fitting kits. Kind regards John 😀
Hello shipmates. Well I finally managed to find and win on ebay a Hooben Perkasa that I so longed for. Why the Hooben rather than one of the others on the market ?, because It has a far greater level of detail than the other two !!! The previous owner had only assembled the forward Bofors and the torpedo racks so there Is plenty left to do, Including rebuilding the previous mentioned parts as there assembly was abysmal. Having waited so long to get one of these kits I am very disappointed at the poor quality of the mouldings especially the deck which has a moulding line down the middle from stem to stern, which seems to step from port to starboard, (don't quit know what to do about that) The cabin / bridge superstructure has positioning lugs moulded to the under edge which are supposed to align with Indentations In the deck but guess what, they don't align ! so I have cut them all off, the raised lip around the deck opening lines It up ok, so not so much of a problem, just annoying and reflects the poor quality of the kit. This will be the first plastic kit I have built for over 40 years so Its going to be a challenge. I'm a bit fussy so Its got to be right, think I'm going to have to find someone to assemble those brass torpedo racks though, don't think I'm quite up to that, any volunteer's ? I Intend to have the forward hatch open and will make a ladder down a access tube Into the forward hull. Have also fitted a minI servo to give the forward Bofors a degree of rotation. Will post some pictures sometime. Any advice / assistance from anyone who has built one of these would be gratefully received. Bye for now, John
Hello fellow boatmen. Sorry this Is a rehash of a previous post, but does anyone have any experience of building the "Hooben Perkasa" I am trying to compare It with the NMM version which I have read about.
HI thething84 Thank you so much for your response 😊 . Yes I realised about 30 seconds after I had placed the post that Googling was probably the way to go, which was why I never bothered to update It. Plans changed and I no longer need to use poly s for the foreseeable future but will check out Google If required again. Strange that yours was the one and only reply to date 😭 I was expecting the responses to come flooding In considering how helpful other members of this site have been to me and others In the past. Perhaps people thought such a subject was not worth responding too. Anyway thanks again Kind Regards, John
HI again Dave So sorry, I didn't realise (lack of concentration) that I was communicating with the same person In two different conversations. That will teach me to look at who I am talking too. Polishing your nuts round In a drill, now that does sound painful !!!! Ouch All joking aside small engineering projects are just not my forte. I'm more your blacksmith type If you get my meaning. If I do purchase the moulded Perkasa (whichever one) I can see It now, Glue everywhere !!!!!. Well maybe not that bad, but you know what I mean. John
Looking good, to what scale are they? only ask as those props would look great on my 1/32 Perkasa torps, did you buy them or are you one of those talented people who make there own, envious as hell me, I couldn't make custard Ha Ha.
HI Dave and thanks for your contact. I have visited your website on many occasions and very good It Is too, unfortunately the specific Information I require Is not addressed there. I have purchased 3 Precident Perkasa's on eBay, the first 2 were terrible and quickly resold via the same source and at a profit I'm glad to say, despite my description being more honest than they were when I bought them. The 3rd one has been completely refitted with my preference of running gear, but the superstructure Is another matter, there Is only so much one can do with wood ! and I'm no chippie, which Is why I am considering a moulded construction, Its all In the detail. Just love the lines of the Perkasa, some things just look right, other examples being the Meriden Triumph Bonnyvilles & E Type Jaguar, you just know they will top the ton just by looking at them 😀 (If I tried to explain you wouldn't understand). 👍 I cant understand why you were the only one to respond, surely there must be someone out there with experience of one of these kits. Regards John
HI John Try reading "The Sea Hunters" by Clive Cussler, ISBN; 978-84983-306-06. It blew my mind. Among others Included are; USS Cumberland, USS Carondelet, CSS Florida, CSS Arkansas & The Confederate sub Hunley. Regards John
I saw a article In Model Boats Magazine a few months ago regarding the making of a homemade polystyrene cutter, unfortunately I have mislaid, Ie accidentally sent for recycling the Issue concerned. I wondered If anyone could email me ((Email Removed - PM Only)) a copy of the article. Many thanks In anticipation. 😊
For Sale Model motor fitting kits comprising the following; 3 x Suppression capacitors 4 x Stainless Allen cap motor mounting screws (2 x 2 different lengths) 2 x Stainless split washers 2 x Nylok nuts 1 x Allen key. At a price of £3.99 Including P&P To order see my ebay listing or email me; (Email Removed - PM Only)
Hello All. I am afraid I am In need of some advice again ! I am considering purchasing a new Perkasa kit, I have two In mind, the Nautical Marine Models twin motor version at £235 or the Hooben three motor version at £200. Does anyone have any experience of either of these kits and could offer any advice to help me decide which one to go for. The number of motors has no bearing on my decision as I already sail the Precedent 1/32 wooden hull Perkasa running with just one motor and she runs fine on It. I am more Interested In opinions of the quality of the mouldings and the ease of construction. Looking forward to any responses, the more the merrier. Thanks for taking the time to read and respond. John
HI Dave Its the shorter of the Perkasa's at 36 Inches, the battery Is quite heavy being a lead acid and sits 6 Inches from the stern and 24 Inches from the bow so I think Its well back. The prop Is a red plastic one with a diameter of 2 Inches no Idea of the pitch. I don't have a selection of props to play with, Advice/suggestions on motor and prop size/pitch would be appreciated.
HI Dave and thanks for your response. I am perfectly happy with the way the Perkasa gets up on the plane on full throttle. I guess I have the balance correct to achieve this. I am using 2 x UJ couplings even though the line of drive Is quite straight. Of course If I were to fit a larger motor the drive would then end up slightly out, due to the motor output shaft being higher but no real way to remedy that without stripping out the propshaft. My prop Is a 3 blade plastic one no Idea of the pitch. What size would you suggest for a 550 motor ? You are of course correct In what you say about restricting the movement of the stick, but doing so with my setup would then prevent the boat getting up on the plane. I guess I will have to limit the time I run at full stick and cool the motor and ESC
HI Nasraf I don't doubt what you are saying and after all you have been In the hobby for a long time and I respect your experience. But this Is another thing I am failing to comprehend, I did take the time to check out the specifications and most of them are MabuchI 500/550's and the specs seem the same as for those supposedly sold as being specifically for model boats. Unless I made a error as usual, HaHa. Even some I have carrying a Johnson sticker which I have often seen criticised are actually Mabuchi. Anyway at the moment I have 25 of various voltages sitting on the shelf so replacements are no problem for a while. The 550/12v set up gets the boat well up on the plane at full speed so I am OK with this, I guess I will just have to try and keep the motor/ESC cool. But we have gone slightly on a side track as the original question was how to lower the voltage to the ESC by 3 volts, which In doing so should also underpower the motor just as we have been discussing.
Many Thanks to Dave & Nasraf for your response, The Perkasa motor Is a single RS550/12v running of a 12v 3.4Ah battery, I did have a problem with the motor & ESC getting hot and everything shutting down especially after a short burst high speed run. I have fitted a small fan to the ESC to try and keep It cool but have yet to try It to see If the problem Is solved. May water cool the motor as well. I have a lot of motors of various voltages all removed from rechargeable power tools so would also ask If It Is better to; Run a 9v motor off 12v supply or run a 18 v motor of 12v. Thinking logically about this I would have thought; 9v motor/12v supply = overheated motor, 18v motor/12v supply = overheated battery, so either way one cant win. 😭 But then this would only apply when running at full speed which wouldn't be all the time so one of the answers must be a happy medium. 😊 Thoughts welcome
HI to all fellow Boatmen. Is anyone out there a electronics expert ? as I need some advice which I am sure would be also helpful to other members. I am running my boats on "Tornado" type ESC's (the blue ones that come from the east). My concerns are, that I am using 12 volt sealed Lead Acid / Gel Battery's which have a output of anywhere from 12 to 14.5 volts. The ESC's have a maximum Input voltage of 12 volt. Is there a way to reduce the output voltage of the battery's to say 9 volt max to avoid over powering the ESC'S but without reducing the battery's current output significantly. Or am I being over cautious and have nothing to worry about. All comments gratefully received.
Hello all my nautical acquaintance's. At last thanks to the wonders of eBay my Mystery Billings boat now has a model name, It was called the "Sea King" (photo uploaded) and appears to have been produced around the 1970's, and mine named the "Fay Irene" of the TRB MBC whatever that may be. (Enlightenment would be welcome) After she has been refitted and painted she will be renamed the "Lady Lena" after my wife. Thanks to Dave M for trying to Identify. As for the billings "Kadet" I am rebuilding, I got to the stage of spraying the primer but by this time the weather had changed with winter settling In, and It Is too cold and wet the paint wont stop running, so will now have to wait until next summer before painting can resume. Then I hope to complete It and then move It on. I don't like these smaller models I find It much easier to work on models of 30" . Might try and obtain a Hooben Perkasa does anyone have any experience of this kit? O'well 23.30 and time for bed Cheers all John
Just a word of warning/reminder to anyone considering useing this wonderfull stuff. "YOU CANT OVERPAINT IT" paint or varnish will not stick to It. If you wish to overpaint use a acrillic sealant this will "skin over" when dry and then may be painted/varnished whilst still maintaining a flexable seal, although not as good as silicone Its a trade off, as a thin bead of acrillic will dry through. Sorry If It seems Im trying to "teach mother to boil a egg" but there may be someone out there who didnt know. Regards to all John
Hello again my nautical friends, More advice needed again, (still dont have a 100% positive ID on this one, Many thanks to those who responded,so any more Ideas?)Having sanded the deck and superstructure I have decided to paint the cabin and wheelhouse (light blue with white roof) and just varnish the deck,(as I dont think the real thing would have been all varnished wood) problem Is the mahogany ply has simulated planking grooves which due to being sanded now require some work. Anyone have any Ideas on how to deepen the grooves and highlight. I did start lining with pencil as may be seen In one of the photo,s, but as the grooves are not very deep It was hard to follow the curves Any Ideas welcome.
Hello again Dave. Thanks for your response, yes the woodwork Is mahogany, thankfully there dos'nt seem to be any problems with the joints, not that I've come across yet, but then I'm too busy with the Billings Kadet which Is needing almost a total stripdown to remidy rough painting by the builder. Why spend so much time building a kit and then ruin It with shoddy paintwork I'll never know. You may recall my previous post regarding adhesives, for the Kadet, to fix the wood deck to the styreen hull I chose to use "Gorilla" glue. It has a finished dry appearannce like foam filler, sticks like you know what to a blanket and Is claimed to be 100% waterproof. The dry edges did require some filling with another adhesive though as the finished edge did appear to resemble a aero chocalate bar. Back to the boat In question where the cabin edges rest on the deck there Is some light splintering. The product that I usually use In these circumstances Is "Ronseal Wood Hardner" Its a thin resin wood rot treatment that really soaks Into the wood and does what It says on the tin! binding the fibers together. This will be the first time I will try It on mahogany though so I am hoping for the same results that I have had with lighter woods. Till the next time, Cheers John
Hello all nautical friends. Can anyone Identify the latest aquisition to my fleet. It wears a billings twin flag transfer on the bow but thats all I know, any Info appreciated. I am considering selling my 36" keil kraft fireboat, Its In a bare hull/superstructure condition no fittings Incl, (see pic) offers please PM, or email *email removed - Admin*
HI Dave and thanks for your further response, I have just had a Idea and wondered what you think about fitting 2 rudders, one as close to the prop as pos and one as far astern as pos or am I just being daft. Regards John
Hello fellow boatmen (and women). Me again with another plea for help. Another one of my ebay purchases under restoration/refit, (4 now, god this hobby Is addictive). This one was originally built as a straight runner (see photo) but now I wish to add a rudder for full RC. Problem Is where to fit It, do I put It right behind the prop just cutting away part of the keel, put It right behind the prop and remove all of the keel, or put It as far astern as I can, just removing as much of the keel as required. Please see photo attached. Any advice greatly appreciated. 👍 Have just added more photos
It was a Billings Kadet purchased on ebay, while I was sanding down the paintwork on the hull and deck they parted from each other. The adhesive used looked like a 2 part epoxy similar to that Stabilit I have since seen In another thread. It was real hard and well stuck to the ply but came away from the hull very easily, I am assuming that was because the hull lip had not been sanded to provide a key. This will be remedied but I was just unsure If to use It again or If there was something better available. I thought about useing a building adhesive such as Gripfill but was concerned the solvent would attack the styreen.
Hello everyone, hope you are all ok. I need some advice again. What Is the best adhesive to stick a styreen hull to a ply deck (permitting a small amount of alignment time) and also Polyester sheet windows to ply. Thanks In advance to all who may reply. Regards John
Thanks to all who responded with Ideas. I have purchased a new folding trolley from ebay which does the job a treat It folds / retracts to a small size, will take up to 30kg and cost under a tenner with free postage. I have Included a photo for anyone that may be Interested, (Hope It uploads).
Hello Friends Just wondered If anyone had any plans/ideas for a launching/recovery sling for my Perkasa. Due to severe arthritis In my spine & hips I am going to have to launch/recover from a standing position. Has anyone In Cornwall seen the water at the new "Heartlands" In Pool, just wondered If It was deemed suitable for model boats? Regards John