Updated build photo'sLong process but it's getting there

What did you make them out of? are they 3 D? outstanding work.

well I'm getting there still a long way to go. Painting the cabin and Hull before adding all the attachments.
Thought it would be easier to do with out all the lights railings and other stuff are added. I used 220 wet and dry sand paper for the anti-skid look on the deck.
Interior cabin is done and painted. Will add the windows / Glass after painting is done
I'malways open to new Ideas and ways of doing this.
1st Styrene boat I have built. Huge llearning curve.

Use Styrene it comes in all kinds of thiknesses and widths also can get sheets in different thickness. It's easy to work with, you can cut it with a xacto knife. Score with knife and then bend it at score mark and it breaks. to paint it use a lite sanding 320 grit, paint with real lite coats of paint.
If using Balsa use balsa sanding sealer do several coats and sand in between each coat until smooth with 220 then finish off with 300 sand paper

Chugalone I'm using Vallejo paints right now with a Iwata IPH 80 here is first time with this set up, Color is real bright due to the sun I'm buillding a Model Slipway boat the 'TRENT'
I had to many issues paint with laquer and enamel paints due to the thinners on Styrene glues and fillers they seemed to made the Styrene and paint soft for several days. took to long to cure. befor applying 2nd coats.

Up date to missing link Do a search for " Airbrushing for modelers 101" hopeflly this works again
Also if you're using the different plastic fillers Tamynia on your models don't use enamal or laquer paints the desolve these fillers.

https://scale-model-workshop.com/lts49-005/005-3766/paint-scale-model/airbrush-s

I found this information very interesting.

https://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.htm

https://scale-model-workshop.com/lts49-017/lts49-017-000.html

I'm currently building a Model Slipway Trent Class rescue boat. and could use some input, I'm at the stage where i need to join the upper deck to to the Cabin, along with the Radar arch. the radar arch and upper cabin both have wiring in them for the lighting and Radar that needs to be run down into the hull.
I'm trying to figure out how to do this with out installing the radar arch at this time, do to sanding and painting the cabin after the upper deck is added to the cabin. the upper deck is epoxied to the cabin. So I will be sanding and painting the seam. once done it will be difficult to run the wires for the arch.
I probaly didn't explane the very well, my apologies thank you

This is what I use and I can cut it to size of the object. this is Amazon USA though wouold think it would be listed in UK and other countries.

https://www.amazon.com/Neoprene-Vibration-Adhesive-Absorbing-Material/dp/B07KYS9

Dave
Thank you
I have been looking into doing the 3 servo's and thinking at this time I will stay with the one. My problem is I'm having difficultity in understanding how the rigging is hooked up (routed) and looking for some good drawing photo's on how it should be.
I wrote to Billing asking them for help and there answer was: "We don't offer technical support for RC since 2015 as we don’t have any here with the right skills any longer.
We also don't sell RC- BUT you can join our facebook group - For advice from other builders that have experience with RC installation!"
Ast to the Motor and ESC I will try it they way it is set up with a new Fly Sky FS - i6 X 10 Channel ( got the 10 channel for $3 more on Amazon)

Good Morning
I just acquired a Billings Boat The Colin Archer “414” , And it is currently rigged For RC and electric motor. It is set up with a Futaba Receiver 6 Channel (the Old FM Radio) I would like to Upgrade to a 2.4 MEG radio and new motor and ESC.
It only has servo’s for one sail winch servo, Rudder servo and old style motor controller. The plans I was able to get off of the web site, for this boat show shows 3 sail servo’s but does not show how to rig the sails for sail control.
Is there anyone who can tell me what I need for new updated electronics’ Sail winch Size( can I use the old servo's with new reciever 2.4meg), What Motor size, With ECS Battery size ( Lippo, Nimh, or any other Battery) boat did not come with a battery I assume it was Lead acid. Don’t know what size I would need other than 6 volt.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

This is what I used on my Dusseldorf they are refrigurator water line Quick disconnects 1/4" 3/8" 5/16" Plastic Hose Quick Connector, Quick Shut-Off Hose Joint Tube Connector, Valved In-Line Coupling Insert Quick Connect Fittings (1 Male+ 1 Female) (1/4") Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/BBTUS-Connector-Shut-Off-Coupling-Fittings/dp/B0B1HMSSTF/

Depending on how big your boats are try this. I use one like this for my sail boats.

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Collapsible-Multipurpose/dp/B0B1S4C4

here is the manual

https://fccid.io/N4ZFLYSKYT4B/User-Manual/User-manual-part-I-1696520

well an update on my build. it has been a challenge. I have been struggling to understand the instruction in the book. but working thru it. I have added some photo's of the build.
Iam trying to update the boat to match upgrade Trents that now have Bow trusters the "Esme Anderson" "14-02" out of Ramsgate England. she is coming out of refitting this month.

I biult the same model when I was stationed in the Netherlands in 1983. Last year I upgraded it tho new electronics motors, ESC, batteries (lipo), throttle control. and have had it on the water a few times now. It was a fun build.

What Airbrushs are you using on Larger projects like Hulls over 36"?
Do you use Paint booths? and what size and where do you get them?
Or do you use Larger paint guns for these large hulls? If so what are you using?
Are you using Enamels. or Poly paints?
Thank you

you might search for 3D files. they all can be sized to what ever you need

Thank you Dave976
Do I need to add watercoolers to these motors? Did you use one or two ESC's?
Anouther Trent user is using Turnigy D3536/6 1250KV Brushless Outrunner Motors is this over kill?
How did you mount these motors. did you have to get special motor mounts? (who From)
Again thank you

Looking goodThese monitors were interesting putting together. it took me a while to get them set up On my Dusseldorf. still having problems getting my boat davit working. have you got your going yet?
Nice Job

I'm building a Model Slipway Trent.
What is best motor and ESC for this? I have the Slipway Belt Drive reduction gear units with the Kit, Would I be better upgrading to Brushless motors.
Any Idea On what motor to us and what ESC to use, and what batteries to use.
Thank you

It might help if you mention what boat you are looking for.
These people are outstanding they contact me within 24 hours and I am in the states
Outstanding pepole
Cornwall Model Boats Ltd
Unit 3B, Highfield Rd Ind Est
Camelford
Cornwall
PL32 9RA
Tel 01840 211009
United Kingdom

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/

I'm Starting a new build today Slipway "Trent" 1:16 size Scale
I'm also looking for build Input from others who have built this Life Boat
Had a slight problem fitting the 2 'A' frames as the indents for the location were missing from the mold.
will try and keep this updated as i go😊
I have many other builds on here under bruce1946
Sorry for double post seems a new page was created for me. back in nov.22

Here is my build

blogs/71068

I have included photos I'm unable to identify this boat. I have Talked to US1M of the AMYA and still not able to get any other information on it.
It is a carbon fiber hull. With Carr sails they cannot not identify this boat either.
I'm trying registering this boat as a US1M, so I can get a number for it.
The photo number ending in 085331 is a part I need.
I'm working on restoring it right now cleaning up the deck and other stuff.
The person I got it from doesn't know much about it other than he believes it's a Seattle Wa, boat.
Thank youo in advance

You might check out doll house supplies they are 1:12 scale

My understanding is brushed have lower RPM more torque Brushless High RPM low torque
Brushed will run longer periods like hours where LIPO's are short run times for Brushless.
Brushed usually use Lead acid which are heavier and give more Ballast for boats.
Scale boats tugs brushed Speed boats Brushless

Brushed and Brushless Motors: Advantages and Disadvantages Depending on your application, there are reasons why you might choose to use a brushless motor over a brushed motor. The following table summarizes the main advantages and disadvantages of each motor type:
Brushed motor Brushless motor
Lifetime Short (brushes wear out) Long (no brushes to wear)
Speed and Acceleration Medium High
Efficiency Medium High
Electrical Noise Noisy (bush arcing) Quiet
Acoustic Noise & Torque Ripple Poor Medium (trapezoidal) or good (sine)
Cost Lowest Medium (added electronics)
Lifetime
As previously mentioned, one of the disadvantages of brushed motors is that there is mechanical wear of the brushes and commutator. Carbon brushes in particular are sacrificial, and in many motors they are designed to be replaced periodically as part of a maintenance program. The soft copper of the commutator is also slowly worn away by the brushes, and eventually reach a point where the motor will no longer operate. Since brushless motors have no moving contacts, they do not suffer from this wear.
Speed and Acceleration
Brushed motors rotational speed can be limited by the brushes and commutator, as well as the mass of the rotor. At very high speeds, the brush to commutator contact can become erratic, and brush arcing increases. Most brushed motors also use a core of laminated iron in the rotor, which gives them large rotational inertia. This limits the acceleration and deceleration rates of the motor. It is possible to build a brushless motor with very powerful rare earth magnets on the rotor, which minimizes the rotational inertia. Of course, that increases the cost.
Electrical Noise
The brushes and commutator form a kind of electrical switch. As the motor turns, the switches are being opened and closed, while significant current is flowing through the rotor windings, which are inductive. This results in arcing at the contacts. This generates a large amount of electrical noise, which can get coupled into sensitive circuits. Arcing can be somewhat mitigated by adding capacitors or RC snubbers across the brushes, but the instantaneous switching of the commutator always generates some electrical noise.
Acoustic Noise
Brushed motors are “hard switched” – that is, current is abruptly moved from one winding to another. The torque generated varies over the rotation of the rotor as the windings get switched on and off. With a brushless motor, it is possible to control the winding currents in a way that gradually transitions current from one winding to another. This lowers torque ripple, which is a mechanical pulsation of energy onto the rotor. Torque ripple causes vibration and mechanical noise, especially at low rotor speeds.
Cost
Since brushless motors require more sophisticated electronics, the overall cost of a brushless drive is higher than that of a brush motor. Even though a brushless motor is simpler to manufacture than a brushed motor, since it lacks brushes and a commutator, brushed motor technology is very mature and manufacturing costs are low. This is changing as brushless motors become more popular, especially in high volume applications like automotive motors. Also, the cost of electronics, like microcontrollers, continues to decline, making brushless motors more attractive. Summary Due to declining costs and better performance, brushless motors are gaining in popularity in many applications. But there are still places where brushed motors make more sense. Much can be learned by looking at the adoption of brushless motors in automobiles. As of 2020, most motors that are running whenever the car is running – things like pumps and fans – have moved from brushed motors to brushless motors for their increased reliability. The added cost of the motor and electronics more than makes up for the lower rate of field failures and decreased maintenance requirements. On the other hand, motors that are operated infrequently – for example, motors that move power seats and power windows – have remained predominately brush motors. The reasoning is that the total run time over the life of the car is very small, and it is very unlikely that the motors will fail over the life of the car.

Ed Happy New Year to you
I'm not sure that I would ever buy anouther Dumas kit again. the Instruction and plans are horrible. The Wood and parts are horrible, the die cutting of the parts is sad they should be using laser cutting. plywood parts cutting only goes partway thru the wood having to use alot of time cutting parts out with xacto knifes is both time consumming and unsafe. I ended up using a scroll saw to cut out the parts.
Plans & Instructions for Kit #1219-Barge
You can order the plans and instructions here for the barge $2.50.. the kit is $100

https://www.dumasproducts.com/product/plans-inst-kit-1219-barge/

No I haven't yet I'm not very smart on the electronics I do have a friend here to help me. I'm planning on setting it up like they suggest with 2 ESC's.
But I'm hoping I can use one motor in reverse and one in forward also for motor steering