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Hi thanks for your input The pictures do not show the mini fans now attached to each motor which were robbed from PC cooling fans. The boat is not a performance craft I will hopefully only pull 20 to 30A from each of the low kv motors. Spec. 2808 1400KV 14 Poles Brushless Motor Max Watt: 350W Voltage range: 7-15V Max amps: 35A No load: 1.2A
This Boat is a bit experimental the main goals where for it to be light in weight, and also a more correct hull shape, also to keep cost to a minimum and as scale as practically possible. To answer the question about not using one single skin, is that ply will not bend in two directions, the sides of the hull have curves to them, the length of the hull is also curved, especially the bow but also curves to a narrower stern/ transom. The best way to skin the boat is by 60 degree planking in two alternating layers but this would make the hull too heavy for me to transport, due to back problems.
Some pictures of the original sails and rigging, to my surprise the carbon fibre mast was in two sections, there is no mention of this in any manual or information regarding this boat. It could be a replacement (Perhaps a fishing rod!).
Ok start by removing all I can from the hull, rudder, mast, stickers, stays. etc a) Sand down the hull and wash with white spirit. b) Fill scratches and re-sand. c) Reinforce mast position surrounding area.
I have by luck, not judgement acquired a second hand 'Nirvana' Yacht, it is a sloop rigged craft that was only sold in America and retailed between $250 and $350 according to the revision version and the year brought. This was a bit of a surprise to me as I only paid £10 for it. The Nirvana RC Sailboat was first produced by Megatech in 2002. and is 32in long and the hull& deck are ABS plastic. The quality of the boat is unmatched in the price range, with such features as a lead keel ballast, superior polyester sails that won't mildew, stretch or tear, and fittings that make the boat a dream to sail. The mast and booms are made of carbon reinforced composite that is light and very strong. The Boat hull is in sound condition just a few scratches, there is a hairline crack in the mast area, no radio gear at all. and sails are usable but really need replacing.
Installed the three out-runner motors, I hope I never have to replace them. They have rubber mounting washers and nylock nuts and spring washers in M3. They are about half inch apart took a few hours to install with full access as currently boat has not been skinned. I hope to add small fans to the prop hubs to keep them cool Now have received the rudders and water scoops. they will be installed after the bottom skins are on.
Hi Please be careful with copper/brass alloy propellers as they often contain beryllium which is is highly toxic, read about the dangers and take the appropriate safety precautions. Before you work on these propellers, such as balancing, sanding, polishing or repairing.
DIESEL TUG TIRRICK Plans by Sarik Hobbies, Schneider powered tug1:50th scale. Model is 740mm loa & 230mm beam and intended for power by model VS units. Unusual hull form but no model construction data. Featured in: MM NOVEMBER 1994 https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diesel-tug-tirrick/
[Score: 5/10] 26"/1400g HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class Capable of 12mph and a runtime of 15mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 35mm) Direct Drive Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China 60A (30Amps) ESC - Comments: Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed bearing. Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators: Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 – Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16 m (52 ft 6 in) Beam: 3.1 m (10 ft 2 in) Draught: 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) Propulsion: 2 × MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37 mph; 59 km/h) Range: 260 nm (480 km) at 19 kn (35 km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted)
Pictures Rubbing down hull, Close ups of hull repairs Drill holes in transom for the exhaust pipes (water cooling outlets). Added spray rail to side of hull. Have found that I am having bad reactions to the fumes from Gorilla Glue.
Thanks to ChrisF I am able to rebuild the boat with a different superstructure, but using the Huntsman 31 hull, he informed me of a Sport version of the 31 that had similar cabin as the 28. With some investigation. The New boat will now be '2017 Huntsman 31 Cockpit', this is a modern remake of the original design by a new setup. https://www.faireymarine.com/new-boat-showrooms/huntsman/201... Fairey 2017 Huntsman 31 cockpit, 2 berth classic sports cruiser Length: 31’3” Beam: 9’6” Draft: 2’10” Displacement: 4.5 Tons
The boat was free but I gave a small donation to the club,(Darlington & District Model Boat Club). Started by removing all hardware, motor mounts, prop shaft, rudder, water-scoops and outlets. Next fill the holes I have made, remove some excess wood. roughly sand down hull. Foam bow area, and glue crack in deck. Find a lot of damage to the fibreglass hull, large chips out of the gel coat and associated stress fractures, and other spider web cracks. Drimmel all crack lines and open up chips and dents, then fill with a filler. an experimental mix of P38 and Araldite, hope it works. Start planning drive options I have a number of items that I have brought and not used that will be put in this boat, otherwise they may never find a home. last picture shows drive option to use up components.
Sorry but when you said 6v I assumed it was a SLA so your NiMh, must be a 5 cell as they come in multiples of 1.2v. So I agree the simplest solution is a Rx battery pack and disconnect the BEC supply. (May need to remove +ve wire from ESC(s) plug?)
Hi RNinMunich, Should not be too bad as will cut ply slit/profile from tubes to the transom then reinforce inside under rudder compartment. rest of the tubes length are already supported. I really wanted to make sure the motors and shafts were in excellent alinement, and being able to see through the hull is a good advantage. (note. do not have facilities to make alignment tools). In previous models I have left it towards the end of the build to fix motors couplings and have found alinement to be a bit difficult, especially on smaller boats.
I think it would be worth the risk of running the DC Motors at 7.2v (NiMh) or second choise 7.4v (Lipo) and get rid of the 6v lead acid battery. The chance of damaging the motor is limited, the battery packs will be lighter than an equivalent lead acid, but will need to by a charger as well. Always put a fuse in line rated 5 amps below that of the ESC. Or buy two higher voltage motor? only £6.99 each plus P&P link copy and paste into browser address:- https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/graupner-speed-600-8-4v-mo...