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Liked Modified Stiletto project 3 days ago
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💬 Re: Modified Stiletto project
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF (
Lieutenant Commander)
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That's a great idea for making the handrails JB. I've got quite a few to make for my various builds and wasn't looking forward to but a jig will be a great help.
For my modified Stiletto/Rapier I was only going to do a quick build, unlike my Faireys, but seeing how nice yours is looking I may have to rethink that and add some detail!
For my modified Stiletto/Rapier I was only going to do a quick build, unlike my Faireys, but seeing how nice yours is looking I may have to rethink that and add some detail!
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📝 Fairey huntsman steering
9 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Yes, thanks Alessandro.
As is often the case there is no right or wrong answer just choices. For sports cruisers a 3 blade prop is ideal as it gives plenty of shove and enough speed for planing boats. As I said 2 blade props are used but as alluded to they tend to be better suited to high speed and racing boats but sometimes they do use 3!
I've never heard or seen anyone using a 4 blade in a Fairey.
As is often the case there is no right or wrong answer just choices. For sports cruisers a 3 blade prop is ideal as it gives plenty of shove and enough speed for planing boats. As I said 2 blade props are used but as alluded to they tend to be better suited to high speed and racing boats but sometimes they do use 3!
I've never heard or seen anyone using a 4 blade in a Fairey.
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📝 Fairey huntsman steering
11 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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As Boatshed says 4 bladed props aren't generally used on fast planing boats and infact I've heard of serious cavitation occurring if used with them.
2 and 3 bladed are used (my 47" Huntsman came with a 2 bladed plastic one) but I much prefer 3 bladed brass/bronze ones as they just look so good!
Also, and whilst most of us don't build our Faireys to true scale in that we only have one prop shaft instead of two the full-sized boats have 3 bladed props so its a no-brainer for me! The only one of my Faireys with a 2 bladed prop is my Huntress fitted with a stern-drive and that prop is plastic.
As regards your mention of LiPo batteries earlier, yes, they can get very expensive! Especially the higher voltage and capacity ones. There's a few quids worth in a model if you add up the cost of the brushless motor, ESC and LiPo battery.
Chris
2 and 3 bladed are used (my 47" Huntsman came with a 2 bladed plastic one) but I much prefer 3 bladed brass/bronze ones as they just look so good!
Also, and whilst most of us don't build our Faireys to true scale in that we only have one prop shaft instead of two the full-sized boats have 3 bladed props so its a no-brainer for me! The only one of my Faireys with a 2 bladed prop is my Huntress fitted with a stern-drive and that prop is plastic.
As regards your mention of LiPo batteries earlier, yes, they can get very expensive! Especially the higher voltage and capacity ones. There's a few quids worth in a model if you add up the cost of the brushless motor, ESC and LiPo battery.
Chris
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📝 Fairey huntsman steering
13 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Haven't done any research so may be wrong but in the UK we navigate rivers on the RHS, so opposite to the side that we drive, and therefore the helm is on the left-hand side. We had a cruiser and I've hired them on the Norfolk Broads and that's how they were. Smaller boats like speedboats have the steering on the RHS.
I thought for cruiser type boats in the US and Canada the opposite is the case?
My 47" Huntsman which I bought built had the wheel on the right which I considered wrong for the UK.
Wez- good shout on the console. I have a Huntress 23 that was built by Dave Milbourn and I copied the console from that for my other builds and yours is very similar. No right or wrong anyway as many in the full-sized boats have been modified or replaced anyway.
Chris
I thought for cruiser type boats in the US and Canada the opposite is the case?
My 47" Huntsman which I bought built had the wheel on the right which I considered wrong for the UK.
Wez- good shout on the console. I have a Huntress 23 that was built by Dave Milbourn and I copied the console from that for my other builds and yours is very similar. No right or wrong anyway as many in the full-sized boats have been modified or replaced anyway.
Chris
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📝 Fairey huntsman
15 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Good that you mentioned Overlander as they are my go to motor for my builds and was the one I was going to recommend.
The 47" Huntsman 31 is a quite big and heavy boat and so needs a torquey motor to get it moving and then sufficient revs to get it to plane.
The Tornado Thumper V3 5045/10 720kv on 4S/14.8v should give good performance. You need a minimum 80amp ESC.
Have you got a charger for LiPo batteries? To charge safely you want a smart charger and Overlander do some good ones. I've got a Turnigy Acucell 6 which is good with a mains adapter but you can't get them new anymore.
Starts getting expensive but you can charge other battery types and the battery can be used in more than one model. Ive got 2s and 3s Lipos but will need to get a 4s for my Swordsman 33.
Brushless can be manic, especially inrunners, but if you are sensible with the kv rating and battery volts then they are fine and controllable. I like brushless, especially the build quality and use them in all my Fairey builds even the slow ones. I use one in my River Cruiser on 2s and it pulls away very slowly and smoothly and pootles along.
The 47" Huntsman 31 is a quite big and heavy boat and so needs a torquey motor to get it moving and then sufficient revs to get it to plane.
The Tornado Thumper V3 5045/10 720kv on 4S/14.8v should give good performance. You need a minimum 80amp ESC.
Have you got a charger for LiPo batteries? To charge safely you want a smart charger and Overlander do some good ones. I've got a Turnigy Acucell 6 which is good with a mains adapter but you can't get them new anymore.
Starts getting expensive but you can charge other battery types and the battery can be used in more than one model. Ive got 2s and 3s Lipos but will need to get a 4s for my Swordsman 33.
Brushless can be manic, especially inrunners, but if you are sensible with the kv rating and battery volts then they are fine and controllable. I like brushless, especially the build quality and use them in all my Fairey builds even the slow ones. I use one in my River Cruiser on 2s and it pulls away very slowly and smoothly and pootles along.
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📝 Fairey huntsman
16 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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When I bought my 47" version it was fitted with the ubiquitous 850 brushed motor and heavy lead acid battery and the performance was mediocre at best.
Wez, are you Ok with brushless and LiPo battery? I was going to change mine so can give you advice. I sold mine before doing so but that's what the new owner did and it performs really well.
I'd recommend a 5mm prop shaft though I see SLEC suggest 4mm. And they do a windscreen now, though not metal framed.
Chris
Wez, are you Ok with brushless and LiPo battery? I was going to change mine so can give you advice. I sold mine before doing so but that's what the new owner did and it performs really well.
I'd recommend a 5mm prop shaft though I see SLEC suggest 4mm. And they do a windscreen now, though not metal framed.
Chris
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📝 Fairey huntsman 47 restoration
16 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Just over a year ago there were actually two Huntsman 31s on Windermere; Double Century and Sabre Knight.
Both were up for sale with the owner of Sabre Knight saying in his case it was because of the 10 mph speed limit. Must be frustrating when you have a thoroughbred chomping at the bit!
Trouble is if you want to use the performance you need deep pockets!
Don't know if one or both were sold and have gone elsewhere so you might be lucky Wez.
Both were up for sale with the owner of Sabre Knight saying in his case it was because of the 10 mph speed limit. Must be frustrating when you have a thoroughbred chomping at the bit!
Trouble is if you want to use the performance you need deep pockets!
Don't know if one or both were sold and have gone elsewhere so you might be lucky Wez.
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📝 Battery's
17 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Another vote here for the HobbyWing Quicrun ESCs, I also use their Seaking for higher ampages.
Annoyingly though you can't use the programming card on the 30amp ones and I had use the beep method!
Chris
Annoyingly though you can't use the programming card on the 30amp ones and I had use the beep method!
Chris
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📝 Fairey huntsman 47 restoration
18 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Might be wrong but I think it was up for sale and possibly not there now?
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📝 Fairey huntsman 47 restoration
18 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Which I took from the full-sized boat, a Swordsman called Tireur which I based my Swordsman build on and used the bow detail for my Huntsman 31 as well. I got the method and advice from a chap on Mahem. This is what forums are all about.
For the lighter timber I used Tanganyka from Cornwall Model Boats. Should be a matt finish really but I like a bit of gloss varnished timber!
Did 4 decks in the end as I did my Huntress twice. It wasn't too bad but I wasn't happy with how some planks distorted and cracked where bent not helped by being a tighter curve. It was a fiddly process and next time I think I'll use thicker planks and steam them to get the curves required.
Chris
For the lighter timber I used Tanganyka from Cornwall Model Boats. Should be a matt finish really but I like a bit of gloss varnished timber!
Did 4 decks in the end as I did my Huntress twice. It wasn't too bad but I wasn't happy with how some planks distorted and cracked where bent not helped by being a tighter curve. It was a fiddly process and next time I think I'll use thicker planks and steam them to get the curves required.
Chris
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💬 Re: Modified Stiletto project
19 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Looking really good JB and progressing well. Approaching the finishing line but all those bits and pieces and details always take a long time.
Chris
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📝 Fairey huntsman 47 restoration
19 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Funnily enough Wez I used a similar process doing mine but used thin ply instead of paper. It's difficult to bend such thin planks, I used 0.5mm thick, and doing it off the deck means if you make a mess of it then you can redo it. Once glued to the ply you glue it down to the deck.
For those curves at the bow you really need some curve templates. I had some and French Curves from my draughting days but bought some bigger dressmakers curves for the mahogany along the deck edges.
Chris
For those curves at the bow you really need some curve templates. I had some and French Curves from my draughting days but bought some bigger dressmakers curves for the mahogany along the deck edges.
Chris
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
21 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Thanks RN (Edit: overlapped with your last comment) for the detailed reply as that is along the lines of what I I was going to say but less succinctly and without the important calculations. Electric/electronics isn't my area of expertise so I tend to rely on logic and common sense which serves me well most of the time.
Alessandro - I'm sure that fuses, holders and connections could be manufactured to meet the requirements to allow fusing of the individual three cables but certainly for RC model use they appear not to be - I think a search would be fruitless? The main reason being cost as you would be approaching the cost of the thing i.e. the motor, that you are seeking to protect. The motor is usually the cheapest of the major components so why bother, especially when you could be introducing further and more likely risks?
My understanding is that the main thing you want to avoid in a model boat is a fire and why a fuse, if installed, is between the battery and ESC.
My brief online search didn't bring up any agreement on fitting fuses in the motor cables and usually the opposite. The flying lads in the main won't use fuses at all, especially if using a BEC as control of the plane will be lost.
If the motor stalls because of say weed then it could overheat and be damaged but most folks would come off the throttle and as said before decent ESCs have thermal and overload protection. Cheap ones may not but that's always a risk when using cheaper components.
Carry out your tests to satisfy your curiosity and understanding (nothing wrong with that) but it isn't really going to help modellers as we aren't going to do it, that is install fuses in the motor cables. FBs experience has been good in a way because it has highlighted the pitfalls of doing so.
Chris
Alessandro - I'm sure that fuses, holders and connections could be manufactured to meet the requirements to allow fusing of the individual three cables but certainly for RC model use they appear not to be - I think a search would be fruitless? The main reason being cost as you would be approaching the cost of the thing i.e. the motor, that you are seeking to protect. The motor is usually the cheapest of the major components so why bother, especially when you could be introducing further and more likely risks?
My understanding is that the main thing you want to avoid in a model boat is a fire and why a fuse, if installed, is between the battery and ESC.
My brief online search didn't bring up any agreement on fitting fuses in the motor cables and usually the opposite. The flying lads in the main won't use fuses at all, especially if using a BEC as control of the plane will be lost.
If the motor stalls because of say weed then it could overheat and be damaged but most folks would come off the throttle and as said before decent ESCs have thermal and overload protection. Cheap ones may not but that's always a risk when using cheaper components.
Carry out your tests to satisfy your curiosity and understanding (nothing wrong with that) but it isn't really going to help modellers as we aren't going to do it, that is install fuses in the motor cables. FBs experience has been good in a way because it has highlighted the pitfalls of doing so.
Chris
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
21 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Alessandro - I simplified my mention of the motor leads by just saying that the motor relied on accurate timing from the ESC which RNinMunich kindly expanded on with his detailed description. And also his mention that the leads should all be the same length with good quality, preferably gold connecters. It would be very difficult to ensure that amount of uniformity if introducing fuses and almost certainly the resistance would vary from lead to lead.
You are right that when identifying problems that you should only change one thing at a time but I was pretty confident it was the introduction of the fuses that was causing the problem. And so seeing as I considered the prop to be too big for the model it should be changed anyway, not so much for it being the cause of the problem. I did say that brushless motors can turn big props and as has been said there was no warming of the battery, ESC or motor so there didn't appear to be a problem because of the prop size as such but it wasn't helping.
I was going to mention the motor rpm which I calculated a bit less at 13690 unloaded which when loaded would be 10952 (80%). It is a little high for a planing hull cruiser and I reckon would still perform well on a 4S. But once the electrical issues have been rectified the 5S should be Ok as long as the throttle hand is restrained or Tx limited!
Good luck with the changes FB.
Chris
You are right that when identifying problems that you should only change one thing at a time but I was pretty confident it was the introduction of the fuses that was causing the problem. And so seeing as I considered the prop to be too big for the model it should be changed anyway, not so much for it being the cause of the problem. I did say that brushless motors can turn big props and as has been said there was no warming of the battery, ESC or motor so there didn't appear to be a problem because of the prop size as such but it wasn't helping.
I was going to mention the motor rpm which I calculated a bit less at 13690 unloaded which when loaded would be 10952 (80%). It is a little high for a planing hull cruiser and I reckon would still perform well on a 4S. But once the electrical issues have been rectified the 5S should be Ok as long as the throttle hand is restrained or Tx limited!
Good luck with the changes FB.
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
22 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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I was concerned at the number of fuses you have and still am. Different folks have different views but personally I side with the those that say only one fuse is needed and that should be in the positive lead between the battery and escape.
I don't see why you feel the need to have a fuse in each or any of the battery wires and I'm leaning to this as being where the problem lies.
My reasoning being that even though the motor manufacturer has sized the cables for the design current I do think sometimes there isn't a lot of leeway and given that you are quite likely introducing resistance with the fuse/fuseholder and the added joints and this resistance is causing heat build-up and the melting. Also brushless motors rely on precise timing from the ESC to run and again the fuses might be causing a problem here?
I don't use fuses at all in my builds (I may use one at some point when I'm using the boats more often) as in my case I consider the risk quite low - we don't have a weed problem and I also oversize my motor and ESC (no water-cooling at all) along with smaller props so that components aren't working that hard. If I was racing I'd fit one but I don't think my bought plastic race boats have one, I'll have to check. But they are built to a price and not as precious as my builds!
So, if it was me I'd remove the three fuses to the motor and try with the smaller prop. Your ESC has a good rating and its own protection. Fuse size needs more discussion as I've seen it mentioned that it should lie between the max. current of the motor (50amps in your case?) and below that of the ESC of 90amps. 5 to 10 amps lower is mentioned but that is with lower amp ESC's so I think one closer to the motor rating would be better - this isn't an area I know much about so caution on that and see what others think about a safe fuse rating.
Edit: just remembered that you have 40amp breaker between the battery and ESC and no problems with that so that value would seem to be fine particularly as it is lower than the motor rating as well as that of the ESC.
One other thing. If you are going to do an extended dry run make sure the top bearing has sufficient lubrication and that the bottom bearing is running in water. For less mess and resistance leave the prop off!
Chris
I don't see why you feel the need to have a fuse in each or any of the battery wires and I'm leaning to this as being where the problem lies.
My reasoning being that even though the motor manufacturer has sized the cables for the design current I do think sometimes there isn't a lot of leeway and given that you are quite likely introducing resistance with the fuse/fuseholder and the added joints and this resistance is causing heat build-up and the melting. Also brushless motors rely on precise timing from the ESC to run and again the fuses might be causing a problem here?
I don't use fuses at all in my builds (I may use one at some point when I'm using the boats more often) as in my case I consider the risk quite low - we don't have a weed problem and I also oversize my motor and ESC (no water-cooling at all) along with smaller props so that components aren't working that hard. If I was racing I'd fit one but I don't think my bought plastic race boats have one, I'll have to check. But they are built to a price and not as precious as my builds!
So, if it was me I'd remove the three fuses to the motor and try with the smaller prop. Your ESC has a good rating and its own protection. Fuse size needs more discussion as I've seen it mentioned that it should lie between the max. current of the motor (50amps in your case?) and below that of the ESC of 90amps. 5 to 10 amps lower is mentioned but that is with lower amp ESC's so I think one closer to the motor rating would be better - this isn't an area I know much about so caution on that and see what others think about a safe fuse rating.
Edit: just remembered that you have 40amp breaker between the battery and ESC and no problems with that so that value would seem to be fine particularly as it is lower than the motor rating as well as that of the ESC.
One other thing. If you are going to do an extended dry run make sure the top bearing has sufficient lubrication and that the bottom bearing is running in water. For less mess and resistance leave the prop off!
Chris
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22 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Thanks Doogle. I've seen many pheasants on country walks but never been able to get a decent photo of one. But on this occasion, during a walk around a lake, we were sitting down eating our sandwiches when this fella came wandering past only a few yards away!
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💬 Re: Brushless motor sync problems
22 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Bit of a funny one that. As Alessandro says we could do with more information.
Slowing down like that can be indicative of the LiPo low-voltage protection cutting in - what's the Mah of the battery as if it's say less than 4000 you won't get much run time?
But the damaged fuse holders suggests another problem and a worrying one. Are the connections to the fuse holders sound as loose connections could cause overheating and erratic power supply which could get worse as things heat up.
55mm prop is a bit big for a boat of that size, I'd probably use 45mm but brushless motors can turn big props. I prefer to go for a smaller prop that allows the motor to rev higher and more freely rather than risk overloading it.
You're using 25 amp fuses but what ESC are you using? If Allessandro is right about the motor it looks as though max. amps is 50 so you want to be using a 60amp ESC or greater. You could then use higher rated fuses. Talking of which, one fuse is usually used so where are you fitting them?
Whilst I can see you are using 5S because the kv of the motor is relatively low I must admit I get a bit twitchy with higher voltages! I usually use 3S though I do intend to use 4S in my Fairey Swordsman 33 which is a similar size to your cruiser.
Give us some more info. and we can give it some more thought!
Chris
Slowing down like that can be indicative of the LiPo low-voltage protection cutting in - what's the Mah of the battery as if it's say less than 4000 you won't get much run time?
But the damaged fuse holders suggests another problem and a worrying one. Are the connections to the fuse holders sound as loose connections could cause overheating and erratic power supply which could get worse as things heat up.
55mm prop is a bit big for a boat of that size, I'd probably use 45mm but brushless motors can turn big props. I prefer to go for a smaller prop that allows the motor to rev higher and more freely rather than risk overloading it.
You're using 25 amp fuses but what ESC are you using? If Allessandro is right about the motor it looks as though max. amps is 50 so you want to be using a 60amp ESC or greater. You could then use higher rated fuses. Talking of which, one fuse is usually used so where are you fitting them?
Whilst I can see you are using 5S because the kv of the motor is relatively low I must admit I get a bit twitchy with higher voltages! I usually use 3S though I do intend to use 4S in my Fairey Swordsman 33 which is a similar size to your cruiser.
Give us some more info. and we can give it some more thought!
Chris
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23 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Just enjoying a stroll.
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26 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Alessandro - Yes, fallow deer. Another here from my archives.
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📝 Wanted: Can I commission you to build a boat? UK based
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Problem is James, as you say, model boat building can take a long time and for most of us we don't have enough time for our own builds, especially if we have other hobbies and commitments. We only really have enthusiasm for and can make time for building our own models really.
I've seen a number of similar requests on other forums without success unfortunately.
Chris
I've seen a number of similar requests on other forums without success unfortunately.
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1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Thanks, they are cute aren't they. Got to keep the photos coming!
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1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Goslings.
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💬 Re: 2K clear coat
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Nicely painted, hopefully for the last time! Will look really good once finished.
I must get on with mine as all my builds have stalled for quite a long time now. ☹️
I must get on with mine as all my builds have stalled for quite a long time now. ☹️
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📝 Fairey huntsman
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
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Righty-O Wez, let the horses go again! Don't know why I thought yours was a 34", must be confusing yours with someone else's.
Good that you can get the bits Ok as with mine being 1:12 I will have to get from difference sources.
Chris
Good that you can get the bits Ok as with mine being 1:12 I will have to get from difference sources.
Chris
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Wez
📝 Fairey huntsman
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
Lieutenant Commander)✧ 33 Views · 2 Likes
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Hold your horses Wez!
If I remember your Huntsman is 34" long and a scale of 1:11. Those that SLEC do are 1:16 and 1:8 so the fittings are nowhere near the sizes you want.
As for the rubbing strips I use mahogany or bass both of which bend fine with steaming.
Chris
If I remember your Huntsman is 34" long and a scale of 1:11. Those that SLEC do are 1:16 and 1:8 so the fittings are nowhere near the sizes you want.
As for the rubbing strips I use mahogany or bass both of which bend fine with steaming.
Chris
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Len1
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📝 Fairey huntsman
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
Lieutenant Commander)✧ 28 Views · 6 Likes
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Yes the bend at the bow is pretty sharp. On other builds I've had the join at the bow but with the Huntsman 31 I found it better to have joins down the sides so that you have plenty of timber to bend around the bow and glue along the sides. I used an angle joint to stop the ends springing out.
Chris
Chris
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Wez
📝 Fairey huntsman
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
Lieutenant Commander)✧ 31 Views · 5 Likes
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What you could do is carefully sand the old rubbing strip away to give you a sound basis to fix the new.
As far as bending the timber goes all three options work but I prefer using the steam option using the kettle using oven gloves!
Trouble with the water option is that you have to wait for the timber to dry before being able to glue it. Its Ok if you want to tape the timber in place say overnight to conform to the shape required.
Chris
As far as bending the timber goes all three options work but I prefer using the steam option using the kettle using oven gloves!
Trouble with the water option is that you have to wait for the timber to dry before being able to glue it. Its Ok if you want to tape the timber in place say overnight to conform to the shape required.
Chris
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📝 Fairey huntsman
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
Lieutenant Commander)✧ 33 Views · 5 Likes
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Absolutely. Some of my Fairey builds stalled and was an excuse to start another one because I'd reached the stage where the deck needed planking!
In the end I did three in one go which was a task, well four actually as I did the Huntress twice as I wasn't completely happy with the first one.
I haven't done anything on my builds for over 6 months for various reasons and am looking forward to starting again.
Chris
In the end I did three in one go which was a task, well four actually as I did the Huntress twice as I wasn't completely happy with the first one.
I haven't done anything on my builds for over 6 months for various reasons and am looking forward to starting again.
Chris
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📝 ESCs
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
Lieutenant Commander)✧ 46 Views · 5 Likes
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They don't list LiPos as that ESC doesn't have a low-voltage cut-off. Volts are volts at the end of the day so I don't see why they wouldn't work but for safety use another device for warning of low voltage.
But I wouldn't do that anyway as they do one for use with LiPos that has low-voltage protection built in.
What boat is this set up for as NiMh batteries might be suitable rather than heavy lead acid?
But I wouldn't do that anyway as they do one for use with LiPos that has low-voltage protection built in.
What boat is this set up for as NiMh batteries might be suitable rather than heavy lead acid?
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📝 Kyosho RC Boats ....
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Lieutenant Commander)
Lieutenant Commander)✧ 61 Views · 7 Likes
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Noahs Ark RC do a good range of components, worth a browse.
Chris
Chris
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