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📝 My ARTR Plastic Yachts
7 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF (
Rear Admiral)
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I bought the HydroPro Affinity not long after I started the hobby to learn to sail and do some club racing. It is 650mm long and complies with the DF65 racing regulations. Like the more common DragonForce 65 it was built by Joysway and was introduced as a slightly cheaper model but as it used many parts from the DragonForce I doubt it was very viable and wasn't available for very long. I built it with the B Suit of sails for windier days.
A few years later I wanted something a little more competitive (the HydroPro is quite beamy) and so bought a DragonForce 65 which I fitted with the A suit of sails for less windy days - saves having to change sails!
A few years later I wanted something a little more competitive (the HydroPro is quite beamy) and so bought a DragonForce 65 which I fitted with the A suit of sails for less windy days - saves having to change sails!
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📝 Fairey Swordsman Plans
8 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Hi Ron
I bought a few off Ebay a few years ago to use in my 1:12 scale Fairey builds. They aren't too bad but some of them are still a bit cartoonlike. I will still see if I can get some better resin or 3D printed ones.
They are Fisher Price Loving Family Doll figures.
I bought a few off Ebay a few years ago to use in my 1:12 scale Fairey builds. They aren't too bad but some of them are still a bit cartoonlike. I will still see if I can get some better resin or 3D printed ones.
They are Fisher Price Loving Family Doll figures.
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Ronald
📝 Fairey Faun - Almost There
8 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Today I started on the RC installation by fitting the prop shaft and motor, the rudder (very fiddly small screws!) and servo etc. Once the battery was fitted I tried it in the bath.
Very pleased as it sat at just the right angle and although a round-bottom hull it is very stable. Despite only being 16" long it is starting to weigh a bit now (I never build light) which means it should perform well on the water.
Water level is just below the bottom rudder bracket and so little chance of any water going through the slot for the rudder arm. Even if it did the inside of the hull has been sealed, primer/undercoated and glossed.
Once I've finished the RC installation and the windows it will be ready for trying on the lake.
Very pleased as it sat at just the right angle and although a round-bottom hull it is very stable. Despite only being 16" long it is starting to weigh a bit now (I never build light) which means it should perform well on the water.
Water level is just below the bottom rudder bracket and so little chance of any water going through the slot for the rudder arm. Even if it did the inside of the hull has been sealed, primer/undercoated and glossed.
Once I've finished the RC installation and the windows it will be ready for trying on the lake.
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📝 Tools
19 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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When I first started building models a few years ago I was working on the house and so had room and it was OK to have my B&D Workmate in the house which was so useful for my builds.
Once the house was finished it and most of my tools were dispatched to the shed and garage. I managed but struggled sometimes without something to clamp materials for cutting etc. I use the small bedroom as a workroom so no space for the Workmate.
When I recently started the Fisherman build the problem arose again and so I looked around for something suitable and bought a very nice solid wood vise, Swedish I think. But too nice and too bulky for convenient use. A chap on another forum said he'd got a Dremel vise which looked more like it.
Sadly it's no longer made unfortunately but I managed to find one on Ebay which was virtually as new so snapped it up. It's perfect for what I wanted and just sits on the worktop when needed, unlike the other one which was clamped. Lightweight and portable, I just leave it in another room when not being used.
Once the house was finished it and most of my tools were dispatched to the shed and garage. I managed but struggled sometimes without something to clamp materials for cutting etc. I use the small bedroom as a workroom so no space for the Workmate.
When I recently started the Fisherman build the problem arose again and so I looked around for something suitable and bought a very nice solid wood vise, Swedish I think. But too nice and too bulky for convenient use. A chap on another forum said he'd got a Dremel vise which looked more like it.
Sadly it's no longer made unfortunately but I managed to find one on Ebay which was virtually as new so snapped it up. It's perfect for what I wanted and just sits on the worktop when needed, unlike the other one which was clamped. Lightweight and portable, I just leave it in another room when not being used.
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EdW
💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
19 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 19 Views · 2 Likes
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Great shots Harry. They clearly show the stern moving sideways when turning which Bob's wouldn't do because of the deep keel. This was then forcing the bow to turn sharper than what usually happens and throwing up all that water which was causing him those issues.
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Madwelshman
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📝 Fairey Swordsman Plans
19 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Thanks for posting Ron. I used those and the Aerokits kit drawings as the basis for my Swordsman build which I must finish!
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Madwelshman
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📝 Fairey Swordsman Plans
19 hours ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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What's MMM Rod, is it a forum?
Chris
Chris
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📝 Sprite
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 22 Views · 2 Likes
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Looks good Bob - certainly better with the coamings to the cockpit area. Glad that it's coming together as intended without the benefit of me doing a test build. It's one thing doing the drawings but it's very easy to overlook something or get it wrong. I think the most important aspect of any build is getting the shape of the keel and frames right and after that anything can be made to fit and work. My Faun is obviously a lot more complicated build and I've had to make lots of changes and do things on the hoof as I've gone along. But by and large that's my usual method - I draw the basics and then start and then sort things out, maybe with some more drawings for the superstructure etc. That's why I like scratch building so much.
Funnily enough I did initially extend the cabin sides to Frame 2 but decided that it wasn't really doing anything so stopped them at Frame 3! As far as the angled cockpit/cabin side goes, I was going to do it in two pieces and fill the joint if needed with P38. That way I can adjust the lengths easily if required.
Funnily enough I did initially extend the cabin sides to Frame 2 but decided that it wasn't really doing anything so stopped them at Frame 3! As far as the angled cockpit/cabin side goes, I was going to do it in two pieces and fill the joint if needed with P38. That way I can adjust the lengths easily if required.
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Madwelshman
hermank
💬 Re: Fairey Faun - Windows
2 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Phew, that's those pretty much done. Bit of final filing and they are ready to be painted. Fortunately there's no rear cabin with additional windows as was the case with my River Cruiser which I've done and the Huntsman 31 which I've yet to do.
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📝 How many revs do you need on a brushed motor for a 32" model
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Hi Duncan
I work on 12k. unloaded to give around 10k. when loaded when on the water, though you could get away with 9k. as you don't want manic performance.
Chris
I work on 12k. unloaded to give around 10k. when loaded when on the water, though you could get away with 9k. as you don't want manic performance.
Chris
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💬 Re: Fairey Faun - Windows
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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And some goodies arrived a bit later.
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📝 Sprite
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Hi Bob. Yes, I did put a note on to use 3mm but of course you can use what you want. Is the 3mm stiff enough? I thought it should be as the lower part of the cabin sides are restrained and the cabin is butressed with the rear frame and front windows.
I do have obeche but I only use it for motor and servo mounts. It is a nice timber but I would have thought it is too stiff for stringers and the like? I use bass mostly for my strip wood as it bends and sands easily, along with mahogany for when it is varnished.
Actually thinking about it, I think it is beech I use for engine mounts etc. which is very stiff. I don't think I have used obeche. I'll get some on my next order and try some. If it is similar to bass/lime I don't think you will find anything better for general timber than bass or obeche.
Will be interesting once you start assembly.
I do have obeche but I only use it for motor and servo mounts. It is a nice timber but I would have thought it is too stiff for stringers and the like? I use bass mostly for my strip wood as it bends and sands easily, along with mahogany for when it is varnished.
Actually thinking about it, I think it is beech I use for engine mounts etc. which is very stiff. I don't think I have used obeche. I'll get some on my next order and try some. If it is similar to bass/lime I don't think you will find anything better for general timber than bass or obeche.
Will be interesting once you start assembly.
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Madwelshman
hermank
💬 Re: Another Pusher Tug
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 43 Views · 3 Likes
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You're as bad as me Ed! Hence my determination to finish my Faun build before I do anything else! 😁
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📝 Fairey Faun - Windows
3 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Unlike with my other builds I'm determined to finish this one before I move onto others!
One task I never look forward to is making the windows but once I get into the swing it's not too bad apart from when I have to remake the odd one. I use 0.5mm plastic sheets for the frames and 0.5mm clear sheet for the glazing.
I cut the frames out with a Stanley knife and nail scissors and finish off with some diamond needle files and glass nail files.
I usually finish with chrome paint but as these are going onto mahogany I want less contrast and so ordered some Humbrol paints including various shades of brown to see what works best. These have just arrived which is timely.
One task I never look forward to is making the windows but once I get into the swing it's not too bad apart from when I have to remake the odd one. I use 0.5mm plastic sheets for the frames and 0.5mm clear sheet for the glazing.
I cut the frames out with a Stanley knife and nail scissors and finish off with some diamond needle files and glass nail files.
I usually finish with chrome paint but as these are going onto mahogany I want less contrast and so ordered some Humbrol paints including various shades of brown to see what works best. These have just arrived which is timely.
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📝 Sprite
5 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Coming along nicely Bob. Yeah, I had brain fade with the rear cabin wall and frame - I'm so used to designing for lift-off superstructures! I'm modifying it for the outboard version where I've returned to a fixed superstructure. Hopefully the rest of the build goes to plan though with any necessary tweaks.
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Madwelshman
💬 Re: Fairey Faun - More Roof
5 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Today I gave the roof its first coat of primer/undercoat and applied some varnish, which is something I really enjoy, especially to mahogany. I've also just ordered a ship's wheel in brass finish.
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EdW
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💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
6 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Yes, that was why I sold my big 47" Fairey Huntsman model, which was a pity as it was nicely built. The actual weight wasn't so much a problem (but that was a few years ago for me as well!) but it was unwieldy carrying it downstairs etc. I never got as far as launching it as I was going to install a brushless motor but that would have been a challenge as well.
I sold it to a fellow club member who did replace the motor and it looked really good on the water - as you say bigger models do. When I recently saw the club member he said he'd sold it on for the same reason!
That was my reason for deciding to build all my Faireys at a scale of 1:12, as even the biggest one will only be 33" long. My water-jet project is only an inch or so longer and that's as big as I want to go really.
Chris
I sold it to a fellow club member who did replace the motor and it looked really good on the water - as you say bigger models do. When I recently saw the club member he said he'd sold it on for the same reason!
That was my reason for deciding to build all my Faireys at a scale of 1:12, as even the biggest one will only be 33" long. My water-jet project is only an inch or so longer and that's as big as I want to go really.
Chris
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Madwelshman
hermank
📝 One to file away
6 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 44 Views · 1 Like
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First thought was that it was some sort of bowsie?
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📝 Tools
6 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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There's been the odd things as well, not only tools, that I've never found! 🤔 😊
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robbob
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📝 Sprite
6 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Whoa betide any boat that gets in the way of Super Sprite! 😀
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Madwelshman
hermank
💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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I've already advised someone on a Facebook group who is about to start building a Sea Commander to reduce/remove the keel.
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📝 Tools
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Doh! Just had another look and found the chisels at the back of a drawer. Serves me right for having a tidy up a few months ago!
Came across the screwdriver set I mentioned which will work with the chuck. Could be useful as it has a ratchet but it is quite long and a lot of play due to the various parts. Another option anyway.
Came across the screwdriver set I mentioned which will work with the chuck. Could be useful as it has a ratchet but it is quite long and a lot of play due to the various parts. Another option anyway.
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📝 Tools
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Tell me about it Ed. I was looking for my miniature set of Veritas chisels recently that I've had on the end of the work area for ages and can I find them? And yesterday I was looking for my bag of off-cuts of lightweight cloth - had to open a new pack just for a small piece. 😠
Chris
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📝 Sprite
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Looking good Bob. You mentioned the thickness of the keel at 6mm earlier. I use that thickness, and for doublers even with my smaller builds, because and especially for M5 prop shafts, it leaves plenty of meat on each side once it has been channeled out/drilled.
Also it gives plenty of gluing area for the hull skins. Because of the low height of the keel it doesn't add much weight and it is low down anyway which is good. Sanding the total of 18mm is hard work though and gives my PermaGrit blocks a hard time which is why I had to buy another!
Also it gives plenty of gluing area for the hull skins. Because of the low height of the keel it doesn't add much weight and it is low down anyway which is good. Sanding the total of 18mm is hard work though and gives my PermaGrit blocks a hard time which is why I had to buy another!
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💬 Re: Fairey Faun - More Roof
7 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
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Surface filling was done and then sanded smooth. Eze-Kote and lightweight cloth was the applied and once touch dry another couple of coats of Eze-Kote was applied. I also gave the bottom of the roof a couple of coats to combat any warping.
Good thing about using cyano for the roof construction is that as it is quick drying it doesn't cause much, if any warping. On one build, which had a lift-off superstructure I used my usual aliphatic resin and because I hadn't clamped the superstructure to the hull it twisted it. Used aliphatic for roofs since but also clamps!
Eze-Kote dry I removed the excess cloth with a sanding block and gave it another couple of coats to fill the weave. Light sanding and it will be ready for painting.
Good thing about using cyano for the roof construction is that as it is quick drying it doesn't cause much, if any warping. On one build, which had a lift-off superstructure I used my usual aliphatic resin and because I hadn't clamped the superstructure to the hull it twisted it. Used aliphatic for roofs since but also clamps!
Eze-Kote dry I removed the excess cloth with a sanding block and gave it another couple of coats to fill the weave. Light sanding and it will be ready for painting.
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EdW
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robbob
💬 Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 38 Views · 2 Likes
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That looks good now as the prop should get a good, uninterrupted flow of water to it now.
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zooma
📝 Tools
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 40 Views · 4 Likes
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Don't worry I'm not going to post about all my tools! The aim of this thread was prompted by RobBob's right-angle drill attachment and is really more about the less common tools and those being intended for other purposes but have a use in model boat building.
In the latter category are my palette knives. I'd popped into my local Hobbies store (unfortunately many have/are closing) to buy some more brushes and as they were closing had a sale on. Wandering around I came across some paint palette knives and thought they'd be useful for surface filling and small areas as they are small and flexible, so I bought three of what I thought would be the most useful. Tried them on my Faun roof and indeed they are, being ideal for the job.
Knives and sets are readily available from other sources.
Chris
In the latter category are my palette knives. I'd popped into my local Hobbies store (unfortunately many have/are closing) to buy some more brushes and as they were closing had a sale on. Wandering around I came across some paint palette knives and thought they'd be useful for surface filling and small areas as they are small and flexible, so I bought three of what I thought would be the most useful. Tried them on my Faun roof and indeed they are, being ideal for the job.
Knives and sets are readily available from other sources.
Chris
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📝 Tools
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 38 Views · 1 Like
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Like I said Lew, I wish I'd bought one a long time as well! You mentioning compatibility, reminds me I've got a screwdriver with various bits somewhere. I rarely use it as I prefer standalone screwdrivers but it will take the chuck and that could be useful in tight spaces. I must dig it out.
Chris
Chris
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💬 Re: Fairey Faun - More Roof
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 34 Views · 2 Likes
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Yes it is Bob, the Faun is only a few mm longer than the Sea Urchin. I did find a build on another forum of the Sea Urchin and I was interested in how the builder had tackled the rudder and servo, because as you know space is very tight. I found the build after I'd already sorted my rudder/servo and it was a similar solution to one I'd looked at originally but as I'd already finished the deck I didn't have access to do it.
My final solution encroaches on the cockpit area but as all the inboard Fauns (Fairey sold it as an outboard boat) are conversions/one-offs it doesn't really matter to me.
The Sea Rover looks very similar to Faun but it is significantly larger at 24" and both those kits are hard chine hulls. And of course, not a Fairey! 😊
My final solution encroaches on the cockpit area but as all the inboard Fauns (Fairey sold it as an outboard boat) are conversions/one-offs it doesn't really matter to me.
The Sea Rover looks very similar to Faun but it is significantly larger at 24" and both those kits are hard chine hulls. And of course, not a Fairey! 😊
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📝 Tools
8 days ago by 🇬🇧 ChrisF ( Rear Admiral)
Rear Admiral)✧ 38 Views · 6 Likes
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Alessandro, I can understand the shortcomings of your multi-purpose drill. My Proxxon takes small drills of 1mm and less and whilst it is more accurate and doesn't vibrate as I said it doesn't run slow enough for delicate drilling work so I've only ever used it for cutting and grinding timber. I have a Dremmel as well which I bought many years ago for DIY and that is good quality as well.
Drilling brings me onto another accessory/attachment. For model building and small scale DIY I prefer to use my smaller hex drive drills/drivers rather than my bigger drills with a chuck. But needing to drill some 1mm holes at my son's flat I couldn't find any 1mm hex drills. So I looked for a hex to chuck converter and found a nice little Bosch one. Despite it's relatively cheap price it was good quality and held 1mm drills no problem. Hex bits and this converter do move a little but at slow speed it was accurate enough for the job. As I said before if drilling something really delicate and want accuracy I use a pin vise. But anyway this converter is a useful thing to have and wished I'd bought one years ago.
Drilling brings me onto another accessory/attachment. For model building and small scale DIY I prefer to use my smaller hex drive drills/drivers rather than my bigger drills with a chuck. But needing to drill some 1mm holes at my son's flat I couldn't find any 1mm hex drills. So I looked for a hex to chuck converter and found a nice little Bosch one. Despite it's relatively cheap price it was good quality and held 1mm drills no problem. Hex bits and this converter do move a little but at slow speed it was accurate enough for the job. As I said before if drilling something really delicate and want accuracy I use a pin vise. But anyway this converter is a useful thing to have and wished I'd bought one years ago.
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