You appear to have two separate threads running on this?

Chris

As DodgyGeezer says the model in question is an Aerokits Swordsman with an aft cabin under the deck - others versions had an aft cabin with a higher roof just under the side coamings (I'm building one) or a full length open cockpit, which is the one that many models are based on.

The Huntsman 31 was available in two versions, the more common version with the aft cabin and the rarer open cockpit version the Sport.

The Huntsman 28 and as stated the Huntress are open cockpit only.

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Stuart - as you can see from the article in Model Boats, Colin has fitted a contrasting timber to the perimeter of the hull and up the centre of the bow and then infilled with planking.

Another method is to veneer the deck and just varnish it or drawn lines on it with Biro or pencil before varnishing.

SLEC do laser etched ply but the planks are straight.

Really it depends on how accurate you want the result to be and how much time you want to spend on it.

With my Huntsman 28 build I'm just using birch ply and varnishing it whilst with my larger Swordsman 33 (but same scale) I'm going the whole hog and planking it.

Chris

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Hi Stuart - I have a Huntress which is the same length as your Huntsman which was built by Dave M. it will be a little lighter as it doesn't have an aft cabin. it is fitted with a Turnigy D2836/11 750kV so the one recommended to you is a good choice.

Chris

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I guess you will only be able to tell properly is when it's primered. I suppose you could always fill it and resand - that will be my fallback position!

Is the motor size in the instructions? Had a look at a build article and it's not in there. if you haven't got it it's well worth getting because as well as the build of that very kit Dave Milbourn has written an article on finishing nd painting which I'm reffering to. it's the Model Boats Winter Special Edition 2018.

Chris

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Hi Stuart - I'm scratch building a Swordsman, albeit larger than your Huntsman as I'm building at 1:12, so 33" long. I haven't worked on it for a few weeks but am at a similar stage with the hull in that I'm just about to sand the concave into the bow to form the flare. This is a stressful part and I might delay it and start on the superstructure!

From the photos it's difficult to tell if you have overdone it or not due to the different materials breaking up the lines. it looks OK head on and from the side but when looking down towards the keel it does look a little excessve.

I'm going to be building a Huntsman 31 as well soon but again at 1:12 so will be from plans, either existing or my own. I've got three Fairey builds on the go at the moment and another on the drawing board, well PC.

Chris

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I would have thought the motor size would be given in the build instructions or on the plans given Dave Milbourn's (the kit designer) attention to detail.

Chris

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An outrunner is better for this type of boat as it is more torquey. if cooling is needed (and it may not) just use a proper water cooled motor mount. Chris

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Only just seen this thread, don't know how I missed it? Some lovely boats.

Here's my Fairey River Cruiser which is in the process of being built along with a couple of other Faireys. Chris

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Yes, that is what was thinking. Normally with brushless motors it is the motor mount that is water cooled which draws the heat out of the motor. it may not need cooling anyway.

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"I wish I had never said anything or about Biro pretend deck planking Cheers Ian T"

You weren't to know he was selling such crap! Are you sure it's the same guy you got yours from? I can't believe he was supplying first class drawings years ago and is now supplying rubbish. Why bother drawing (well trying to) around the frames etc. when you already have good drawings?

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Yes, copyright is a real hornet's nest.

I remember reading an article in Building magazine many years ago on the subject of copyright where one large housebuilder tried to take another to court because it had copied one of its designs. But because the defendant had slightly altered the design it got away with it.

So for example if I put my Swordsman drawings on Ebay, which were based on the kit drawings, I shouldn't have any problem as I have made a number of alterations. I won't be of course as I've only drawn enough for me to build my model, they are not full working drawings and I'm not interested in doing that.

Where that guy on Ebay is at fault is that he is blatantly copying the original kit drawings with Aerokits on them rather than redrawing them - not that he has the wherewithal!

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Don - that's basically what I did but went a stage further by tracing the top and side views on the PC and then producing the frames from them which is very accurate.

DodgyGeezer - I'm in no way condoning what that guy on Ebay is doing but the problem with the copyright owner is that they are not making drawings available for all of the boats that they produced hence why the likes of that guy on Ebay are able to keep on selling albeit illegally.

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Yes, I first started redrawing the frames by choosing the "best" side and then doing a mirror image but they are so poor even that didn't work as the angle and position of the stringers wasn't consistent from frame to frame.

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Absolutely. Why would you think anything less? if he was being honest he would say "very badly and inaccurately drawn and printed to a high standard!

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Sorry a bit off the original topic but here's a picture of my Swordsman build underway, ready for skinning.

I made quite a few modifications to the drawings because I wanted the aft cockpit version at a scale of 1:12 and added a spine and "fingers" to help with construction.

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Don - Unfortunately I didn't see your post until after you had ordered, so too late to warn you and I may have been wrong as regards those particular plans. Unfortunately I wasn't.

Jacko - I see what you mean but drawn and printed are all one sentence so I read it as both were to a high standard and that is what you would reasonably expect. Even if the draughtsmanship wasn't the best (and I can draw to a very high standard on the drawing board and PC) they should at least be accurate, which they are anything but. The guy's just a chancer.

Modelboatdevil - the plans I got were for the Swordsman. There are some original Philip Connelly plans for the Swordsman on Ebay at the moment, though they are somewhat yellowed and creased! I've never seen an example of the Aerokits Swordsman or Veron Huntsman 28 kits. What size are you looking to build to?

Chris

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Probably means 500mm, I hope so! Otherwise it is going to need one hell of a motor!

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Hi Don - unfortunately I didn't look at them in detail for some time and it was too late to do anything about it. it was useful having the kit drawings though which are drawn well. Whilst redrawing I did modify the construction etc. so not a complete waste of time.

Yes, the "drawn to a high standard" made me laugh, maybe if they had been done by a chimp! Lines were wavy and the frames weren't symmetrical and would be a nightmare to build from and someone even had the cheek to put the copyright symbol on them!

Maybe the ones you bought will be better, but I doubt it.

Chris

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Hi Steve - yours is 1:12 then which is the scale I'm building all mine at.

Yes, the building is the best bit (and the drawing in my case) as I doubt I will use them that much.

Where did you get your bollards etc. from as I shall need to start getting those bits and pieces together.

Chris

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Let us know what the quality is like. I bought some plans for a Fairey and the quality of the drawings for the templates was appalling.

Fortunately I was able to redraw them using the kit drawings for the plan and side view.

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Good to see another Fairey. What size is your Huntsman? I'm busy scratch building three different Faireys at the moment and the Huntsman 31 will be a future project.

I've got one of the Precedent 46" but it's too big and heavy really.
Chris

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Eh? This section is called Non-Hobby Chat!

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Hi

That boat will look great when it's finished. The hull of the Huntsman 31 is the sleekest of the lot.

I'm looking to build an aft cabin version in the near future but at some point would like to build a Sport version.

As per part 1, yes the scale of 1:11 is a bit strange, will have to ask Dave Milbourn how that came about.

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Canabus - I bet Dave had a fit when he saw the spelling of Fairy on those instructions!!

Chris

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The hull of the 31 is much sleeker than that of the 28. By changing the superstructure you will have a Fairey Huntsman 31 Sport. Not many of these were sold as most 31's had the aft cabin.

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I came across those clamps by luck a few weeks ago. Had gone to Homebase (one of those large DIY/gardening/kitchens etc. superstores) with my wife for something she wanted and stumbled across them, and thinking they look useful bought a couple.

When I went back again a few days ago I virtually cleared the stock! Could do with getting a few more though because as you can see and know you can soon use them all up!

I'm really lucky with the IMBS as it's only about 20 minutes away! Been there two years in a row since getting interested in the hobby.

Chris

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Smiffy - they're the ones. Agree about the bigger spring clamps, I struggle with some of the larger ones and I don't have arthritic hands! Some of that type can be a bit too strong for delicate joints as well, probably the smaller plastic G clamps would be better suited as light as well.

I have to say we are pretty spoilt with all the types of clamps etc. that are available nowadays.

Chris

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You are absolutely right Doug but it was quite late with work (getting there, down to 3 days!) the next day and couldn't be ars@d to get the photo off my camera!

But photos attached with other clamps pressed into action as well as only straight pieces of timber and not as much force required.

I picked up those one-handed clamps from the international Model Boat Show and they are good as well but I only have two.

Chris

PS is there any way of quoting posts on this site as I haven't sussed how to do it if you can?

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I've got a number of spring type clamps and Bulldog clips etc. but having read that glued joints benefit from proper clamping I bought a number from Homebase which are of a scissor type which you apply pressure to to clamp and release via a lever.

I've glued some timber bent to a curve, so under pressure and the joint is sound so happy with that. Will have to get some more!

I'd already got some G clamps etc. of different sizes but I like these scissor type.

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