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    ChrisF
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    Member No.#3875
    Registered๐Ÿ“…10th Sep 2016
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…2nd Jul 2022
    City๐Ÿ“Warwick
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
    Genderโ™‚๏ธMale
    Age๐Ÿ‘ถ68
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ211
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    Building 6 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and another in the pipeline!
    Members Harbour
    Fairey Huntress 23 Long Cabin
    Since I got interested in building model boats (well any model building) about 4 years ago my main aim has been to build the classic Faireys; Huntsman 28 and 31 and Swordsman 33. But I also decided I wanted to be a little different, though still sticking with Faireys. One result of this was the River Cruiser and another is this build with one of the main reasons being that it is fitted with a stern drive which I wanted to do at some point. Also as per the name it has a longer cabin and more modern side windows which I like and prefer the overall proportions of the boat. Unfortunately it never went into production which I think was a pity. I started building this a little while ago (surprise, surprise at a scale of 1:12) and got as far as the bath test! I will return to it soon and finish the hardware and electrical installation and progress it to painting.
    Fairey Huntsman 31
    As with my other builds this model is being built at a scale of 1:12. Like the Swordsman there are drawings available but I like to alter things to suit the way I build and so did my own. Also I started building this as the Sport version - no rear cabin and large cockpit which were primarily built for racing. But I sold my big 46.5" Precedent Huntsman 31 (too big and wrong scale!") and so part way through the build decided to convert it to the more common aft cabin version. The Sport looks great but I will have a number of rear cockpit boats in the fleet. As with the other builds with a bit more work it will be ready for painting.
    HydroPro Affinity Yacht
    This is a 650mm long yacht and was brought out as a cheaper alternative to the DragonForce 65. It has a wider beam than the DF but the sails etc. are very similar. It is a great yacht to sail and is ideal for learning to sail as it was for me.
    Fairey Swordsman 33
    This is the third of my scratch builds in progress and again at a scale of 1:12. There are drawings available at this scale but I wanted to produce the rear cockpit version where the roof sits just under the coamings rather than the one with the roof level with the deck or the fully open cockpit version. I also wanted to incorporate changes to make it easier to build it the way I wanted to. The build of this boat is behind the other two and will continue to be so because I'm going to plank the deck and rear cockpit roof.
    Fairey Huntsman 28
    This is the second of my scratch builds in progress and like them all is being built to a scale of 1:12. I've produced my own design because I wanted the whole of the superstructure to be removeable in one to allow easy access.
    Fairey River Cruiser
    This is the first of the scratch builds I'm undertaking and is at 1:12, so 23" long. The River Cruiser was a Fairey prototype based on the Huntress 23 hull but with a greater freeboard. Only one was built and didn't survive. My build is based on a black and white photograph and reference to the Huntress hull.
    Fairey Huntress
    This is a 1:12 model, so 23" long. It's one of the 2 prototypes designed and built by Dave Milbourn and as such the build quality and attention to detail is superb.
    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lorelei
    1 month ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
    Flag
    Hi - taking a keen interest in your build as have had thoughts recently about building a model with a water jet. Most of my current builds (Faireys) are prop driven and one has a stern-drive so fancy something a bit different. Part of the enjoyment for me is finding out what is available, what will fit and what is involved, so looking forward to that.

    I'm going to do my own drawings and will be building around 30/33". Would be nice to use twin water jets to maintain a vee hull but the installation can get a bit tight in a relatively small hull and the control systems more complicated. Also the installation will start to get pretty expensive for what will be a fun boat rather than a scale model.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Virgin Challenger II
    2 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Blimey Steve, you have been busy on the acquisitions front. Good to get what you want though and you have to buy when they are available.

    Pity some clumsy oaf damaged it.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ motor fitment
    2 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Martyn

    As others have said it is very important to have the motor and prop shaft in line. Not just because of noise and vibration but because the motor can get very hot.

    In a model of that size and weight I'd be wary of using those red Huco couplings as they can break. Raboesch do a better quality one (Cornwall Model Boats etc.) but in larger models I've standardised on the alloy ones with the rubber block in the middle and you can get the solid couplings to aid alignment as you can mount the motor and then fit the base snugly under it. They are longer but that might be a benefit as it will move the motor forward to clear the step, make it easier to get a base in and all four screws.

    If you do use a Huco coupling you can tape splints around it to provide a temporary solid coupling.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ BLUEBIRD K7
    2 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Actually Rowen, I think Ashley did an article in the magazine, I'll see if I can find it. And I'm sure Ashley would provide any info. that you'd want.

    He didn't do an exact scale replica as he doesn't do them, but some of the info. will be useful, especially as regards the DF.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ BLUEBIRD K7
    2 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Ashley on the Model Boats Magazine forum has built one. Look in All things floating/Today's boating. Trying to find which page as there are many.

    Sarik list the plans for the K7 which could be adapted for DF.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Holding screws for hull gluing
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Doug

    I think it is somewhat easier to hold balsa in place rather than ply! From my post I think that you can see that I use all the other methods for "clamping" as well and I do steam and it was only as a last resort that I used screws, which aren't brass, are cheap and reusable. It's no trouble filling and sanding the holes afterwards and the whole hull is then covered with lightweight cloth and Eze-Kote before painting. You shouldn't criticise other modellers because they use different methods. We all have a lot of common ground when building but we also have our own methods and if they work, why not?

    I achieve what I set out to do and will continue to use screws when necessary, I think their use is a perfectly acceptable way of holding things in place. I'm not advocating their use in all cases. The OP asked, which screws, and I answered him, unlike others who are telling him he is doing it wrong. Alternatives offered are fine they aren't the only way to skin a cat.
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Finally the Rapier
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    "I feel different now, no longer an outsider ! They are a unique design for sure."

    Great that you've now found what you were looking for Steve, and not just one but both variants!

    Funnily enough I mentioned on Mahem that I was feeling left out of the Stiletto/Rapier/Arrow/Javelin club! Though Bob did kindly offer to trace the parts for me. Who knows!

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Holding screws for hull gluing
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi - as you can see from the photograph, I use all sorts of holding down methods, plus elastic bands, but have found on a number of occasions I need the additional, localised, clamping that screws provide, where clamps cannot be got in or clamp securely.

    I also routinely use some screws for holding bottom skins in place, after gluing, after had one slip in the past.

    The screws I use are 2.5 x 20mm Pozi head. Shorter would be better, because as you see I use small timber pieces to reduce the amount of penetration and spread the load if required.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ 48 inch Huntsman 31
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Ok, will do. PM me your email address.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Brushless motor set up for SLEC Mr Tom
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    If you look at the kit on the SLEC web-site it tells you what you need! They even sell the motor and ESC.

    If you don't want to use their makes you could look for similar spec. motors from Turnigy, Surpass and Overlander.

    An alternative ESC is the HobbyWing Quicrun 30amp. It's not water-cooled but you shouldn't really need it with that motor and ESC as they shouldn't be working very hard on a boat of that size and weight.
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    ๐Ÿ“ 48 inch Huntsman 31
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    What build is it, I'm guessing an earlier Precedent?

    If so, if you don't have any luck PM me your email as I have them.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 52 Views
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    ๐Ÿ“ International Model Boat Show
    3 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Good news as only about 20 minutes away from me. Great to see it returning.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 94 Views
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    ๐Ÿ“ Teak decks
    4 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    1.5mm is fine for that size and scale, 1.38mm to be exact!

    I don't fancy working with planks that small myself! My Faireys are 1:12 using 5mm wide planks which is more my sort of size!

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 48 Views
    ๐Ÿ“ Teak decks
    4 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    If the planking supplied is to scale then that would give a full size plank width of 3 x 60 = 180mm or just over 7". Build being at a scale of 1:60.

    The planks may be a bit over scale but less width may not be readily available and would be difficult to handle and glue in place?

    Paul, for your build, depending on the scale your planks may be wider. What scale are you looking at/building to?

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ motor to prop shaft connection.
    4 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Jim

    I set up my motors and prop shaft using a solid connecter and then replace with one of the alloy connectors with the rubber middle section. To do this though you obviously need to use solid and flexible connecters of the same length.

    Those cheap Huco connecters, often red, aren't the best quality and are really only to be trusted in fairly low-powered, low-speed craft as damage can be done if they break. Raboesch do make better quality ones though, from e.g. Cornwall Model Boats.

    I do have to say though, that motor mount looks a little flimsy and alignment may well alter when power is applied! Perhaps a solid connecter is a better bet! Also, you don't look to have a lot of space between the motor and prop shaft to fit a flexible connecter in? Only one that might fit is one of those alloy spring type connecters. Having said that I've just remembered that you can get the stainless Huco type which are pretty short.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Bertram 38 III Convertible "Azote"
    4 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Nice boat and nice lake!
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Lesro Sportsman
    4 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Yes, generally it is rule of thumb for brushed motors that the diameter of the prop should not exceed the diameter of the motor case except say where you have a heavy slow running boat like a tug running a big prop where the motor is likely to be overworked and run hot.

    With brushless motors being more powerful they can run bigger props but personally I wouldn't go too much over the motor diameter. So for 28 dia. motor 35 prop would be Ok and for 35 dia. motor 40 prop would be Ok, especially where the type of boat has a turn of speed and the motor is running freely.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Lesro Sportsman II
    4 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Looks like the Lesro models are certainly having a resurgence! ๐Ÿ‘

    Thanks to Eraser for the loan of the Stiletto plan.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stiletto
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Eraser - You've been very helpful as that is the only plan seen so far.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Modern Books on RC modelling
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Mike - message sent.
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 55 Views
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Stiletto
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    The superstructure is very simple and with a few measurements, which parts lift off for access and reference to Bob's Arrow kit it would be an easy task to produce a drawing for it.

    Bob, is there a drawing with the Arrow kit? And is the Rapier built the same as the Stiletto but bigger? If so, can't the Stiletto parts be referenced to it?

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Modern Books on RC modelling
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    When you're ready there's a couple I can recommend if you want. Worth a visit to the Overlander Batteries web-site to read the specs. which will provide what they are about.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 63 Views
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    ๐Ÿ“ Modern Books on RC modelling
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    It's a pleasure Mike. To be honest many boats are very similar in that they have a motor and a prop shaft and prop or multiples of and a rudder or rudders. These are used in a large range of boats from speed boats/cruisers through police boats to naval craft and so if your interest falls into one of those areas it is pretty straightforward. You can also have stern-drives and water-jets.

    If you fancy a tug though, many of these, especially the larger ones, are commonly fitted with korts which is where the prop(s) are within a housing and the whole lot turns.

    Once you've done a bit of reading let us know what type of craft you fancy. One piece of advice I will give you now for when the time comes is to get a decent quality balance charger especially if using LiPos.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ“ Modern Books on RC modelling
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Yes, I nearly mentioned the first book but reviews weren't that good as folks are saying it's outdated- 2003 is still a long time ago! Brushless motors are widely used now and I doubt they are mentioned much if at all?

    Wouldn't hurt to get a copy though (I think I will) to give the basics and then look elsewhere for detailed and more upto-date information.

    Brushless motors and electrics are probably the area that have changed most and for reference I can recommend an article on the Home page of Model Boats Magazine forum by the late, great, Dave Milbourn.

    Chris

    Edit: Having read the reviews again on Amazon as I've already gained some knowledge I'm not going to bother. Still think it best to target research and knowledge gathering based on what it is intended to build.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Modern Books on RC modelling
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Mike - I may be proved wrong but I think you will be unlikely to find anything given that model boats is only a small market nowadays and for a publisher it wouldn't be viable.

    I only got interested about 4 years ago and picked up what I needed to know from various forums and magazines and have kept notes in a note book. All part of the fun really! And obviously a lot of stuff is on YouTube nowadays.

    Sorry, not the answer that you wanted and if you already know all of this.

    Have you got a boat in mind? If so you can ask questions which we can answer and you will soon start to learn the basics and more. Build blogs are also a very good way of finding out how things are done.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fairey Marine Huntress 23 Long Cabin
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    As far as the bellows goes just had a look and I've got two quite large holes through the stern!

    Maybe it's because the snakes were going to sit in them? That's the trouble with leaving builds for too long!

    One way or another it will be water-proofed!

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fairey Marine Huntress 23 Long Cabin
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Boatshed - good to hear that you have a Huntsman 31 and Spearfish to build - I think the Spearfish would be an ideal boat to use and they were fitted with them. I wonder if the bigger stern-drive that Bauer-Modelles do would fit as a bigger prop would be beneficial in that size model?

    Be good to see another stern-drive build.

    I had an unbuilt Spearfish Mk. II but sold it as it didn't fit with my 1:12 builds. Spearfish are sought after kits/models.

    Chris
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 70 Views
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Steering
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Boatshed - yes, I've been building a Huntress with the same drive for sometime which is where I think Rick got his inspiration from - it's in the Harbour. You messaged me on Mahem about it.

    I only mentioned the bellows because it looked as though he had missed your question. It's not the servo causing the lateral so much but the arms on the stern-drive and being close to the transom there's nothing that can me done about it. I don't understand why swinging the servo around would reduce the lateral movement? The servo arms are always going to strike an arc. Servo can't be laid on its side as it's a push pull system.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Batteries
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Elvis has left the building! ๐Ÿ‘
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 78 Views
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Cooling
    5 months ago by ChrisF ( Warrant Officer)
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    Looking good.
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    ๐Ÿ‘€ 155 Views


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