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    ChrisF
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    Member No.#3875
    Registered๐Ÿ“…10th Sep 2016
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…24th Feb 2026
    City๐Ÿ“Warwick
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
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    Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
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    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ“ HiTech Winch Drum
    3 hours ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Seems strange that other builds just call for a sail winch, why should this one be any different?

    Found this photo from someones' build and you can see that the central ridge is in place. He mentions that it uses a loop system for operating the sails, is this what your instructions call for?

    It's a big model and the force from the sails will be large, which Hitec servo do you have as they do a bigger, more powerful one?

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    12 hours ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    I think it got messy because his son, I think it was, got involved with supplying some drawings for a time and the likes of SLEC have obtained the rights to release and update some of the kits.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    15 hours ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 6 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Yes, that was set up and maintained by Dodgy Geezer who posts on RC Groups. Note the lack of Lesro. I think that is because of copyright issues.

    ๐Ÿ“ Upcoming Projects
    15 hours ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 10 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Those frames are a good idea as they are self-supporting when floating.

    For Sprite Plus one end could be made specifically to fit and could possible use magnets for when reversing or other quick release method.

    I won't use my outboard version for recovery but will probably do a quick no frills build for that purpose.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    15 hours ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 9 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    That's good to hear. As I said the bow is usually well clear of the water, unless going through a chop so job done.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 12 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Steaming or saw cuts?

    But I found a video on YouTube of one with an IC engine which was going quite quickly and no real problem with water as the bow is clear of the water and water is being thrown outwards quite far back where the curve of the hull then goes flat.

    ๐Ÿ“ HiTech Winch Drum
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 43 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Ok, with you now. If you are careful you should be able to remove the central ridge with a small file. Fiddly but it could be done.

    Or if you know someone with a small lathe and can mount the drum then that would be a better solution.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 16 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Hi Bob

    No, the original Sprite doesn't have chine/spray rails and as you say it isn't a deep vee hull so the corner between the bottom and side skins is quite sharp so will act as a chine rail and help with turning.

    But spray/water coming up the sides and over the deck is another matter. OK the rubbing strips will stop/deflect some of it and in theory the shallow angle of the hull and lack of flare at the bow should mean that water will be deflected outwards but you never know. So perhaps a good idea to fit them now rather than later and they do finish off the corner?

    Worth a look at the video for Sprite but as Sprite Plus will be going faster then maybe they will be a good idea! ๐Ÿค”๐Ÿ˜‚

    ๐Ÿ“ Upcoming Projects
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 25 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    That balsa is hairy isn't it! ๐Ÿ˜€

    Yes, I carried on making changes when I was modifying the drawings for the outboard and am still making the odd tweaks as I'm finalising them ready for building but not straying too far away from the overall look of the original Sprite.

    Not sure if I mentioned it on the Sprite thread but I'm building it upside down off the deck (as per my Huntress build) as the deck edge is straight/no sheer and is a simple way of building once the deck has been cut out. I will then add camber later in the build.

    I should be starting Scimitar first as that was drawn up a couple of years ago but it will be Sprite Plus (plus outboard! ๐Ÿ˜€) first.

    The parallel sides on your build look fine though, in fact better than I thought they would being a bigger model, so no problems there.

    ๐Ÿ“ HiTech Winch Drum
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 45 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Not sure what you mean, but if it's removing the winch drum from the servo it's a case of removing the screw and pulling it off the splines. The Hitec ones are all one piece so can't be taken apart.

    ๐Ÿ“ Upcoming Projects
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 26 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Pointed nose, which as well as removing the flatness echoes the shape of the windows to the front of the cabin - not shown on sideview.

    You can see that I've finished the rubbing strips where the nose starts.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Upcoming Projects
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 27 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    I do like the Sports Fisherman (obviously! ๐Ÿ˜) and plenty, if not most of them are fitted with outboards to provide more space inside the boat but yeah it looks like a vote for the Sprite Plus as it is so different and the Scimitar wasn't already on the cards with the same hull.

    Also it will be a good test bed for sorting out the mounting of the outboard. It will be my first water-cooled model as well!

    Bit busy, as it's got my construction lines on it, but here are the plan and side view. The keel, frames and cabin/cockpit sides are drawn up so all ready to go.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rapier 1. Current.
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Can't open it Bob?

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fairey Fisherman 27
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 8 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Thanks Bob and Will.

    Not for the speed merchants obviously, but I'm glad to have built the Fisherman and Faun as they are so different to the the other Faireys in looks but mainly their construction. I'm certainly looking forward to getting the Fisherman on the water with it being sail and power.

    Chris

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Bob, which was the model you started building but then left because of not having a satisfactory way of operating the rudder?

    It had an external rudder and a tiller didn't it? If so a chap on another forum I know showed me his answer for this. He has the servo at the front of the model and fishing line is run inside small copper tubes along the hull sides and then turned through 90 degrees to face the tiller. It is a pull/pull closed system so runs up both sides of the boat. The fishing line is attached to the underside of the tiller arm and you can hardly see it. It would work well in my Faun, though that doesn't have a tiller arm but I needed boxing for the battery anyway.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 1 Like
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    You've failed there Will, it's the Sea Nymph Bob wants a piccie of. Though you've probably got both! ๐Ÿ˜‚

    ๐Ÿ“ Upcoming Projects
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 40 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Bob

    The Bayonet 35 (as you say 35" or thereabouts) is actually the updated Stiletto/Rapier with the modified stern and more modern superstructure with my Scimitar being based on the open top Sports 35. I've actually made quite a few changes because as well as those for the water-jet I've narrowed the hull towards the stern, put some angle on the hull sides and the cabin/cockpit sides are curved to follow the shape of the hull. Still has the DNA of the Rapier etc. though.

    My Sports Fisherman more closely follows the design of the Fisherman 35 but with similar changes made as per the Scimitar and has a taller and longer top part to the superstructure to as I said to better balance the outboard.

    No problem with the Swordsman 37 as you are basically going to build a stretched 33 hull and the superstructure will be easy enough to draw. I shall start looking at it before too long.

    Chris

    ๐Ÿ“ Fairey Fisherman 27
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 13 Views ยท 2 Likes ยท 3 Comments
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    Before I go much further I need to paint the hull (which I was procrastinating on!) so I've switched to fitting the deck so that I can then fit the rubbing strips and paint the hull - I need to do this now as unlike most of my other Faireys which have removeable superstructures this one is fixed so it will be difficult to work on the model upside down and will risk damage.

    So first job was to form the camber on the bow which I did with a triangular bass strip along the centre-line to give the height and angle and glued balsa sheet either side which was then sanded to shape. 2mm ply was then glued in place and sanded at the edges. Next I added in some additional ply pieces to support the joints and cardboard templates were made for the side decks which were transferred to ply with an allowance for sanding and again glued in place and sanded. The stern was a bit more complicated because of its shape but followed the same procedure. I hand sanded the decking around the outside of the hull which is always hard work on ply edges and so for the inside of the cockpit area I used my multi-tool with a grinding wheel to take most of it away and then finished off with curved and round files.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Yep, exactly as Bob says. I also use Powerflex couplings and the matching solid connectors for alignment in my faster boats. In my slower ones I use good quality Huco couplings and splint them to obtain correct alignment.

    Here is the solid connector for alignment in my Huntsman 31 build.

    ๐Ÿ“ Upcoming Projects
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 39 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    I'm keeping the impetuous going with my Fairey Fisherman build and must return to my other Fairey builds to finish them but I'm also thinking I must make a start on some of my other planned projects. I like to have more than one build on the go and I recently stocked up on thicker ply for the keels etc.

    One of these is Scimitar, my water-jet project, for which I produced the drawings over 2 years ago and bought the water-jet well over a year ago. The hull is based on the excellent Rapier etc. hull.

    The other is my outboard project. After a long wait, I ordered it before Christmas, the outboard arrived a few weeks go. It's a big old lump and nicely made. Bigger than I wanted really, but there are very few on the market nowadays, unless you go for 3D printed, and the smaller TFL one is not really suitable for my needs.

    But I'm now in a bit of a quandary! I've drawn up a version of the Sprite Plus suitable for an outboard and at 30" that's around the ideal size I wanted and the size of the motor looks OK. But I was also thinking I fancied something with a more traditional and sleeker look and already having drawings produced for a Fisherman, again based on the Rapier hull, so I've modified those and called it Sports Fisherman. Not only for the outboard but I've also increased the size of the top part of the superstructure in height and length to balance the size of the outboard, I think it just about looks alright. But this a bit bigger at 35" over the Sprite Plus's 30".

    So, I think I'll build the Scimitar and the Sprite Plus for now, as the Sports Fisherman has the same hull as the Scimitar and the Sprite Plus is a quicker easier build, though the outboard has its own challenges. I can always build the Sports Fisherman later with another outboard or maybe traditional prop. Then again! ๐Ÿ˜€

    Chris

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    There's definitely something wrong with this site. older posts in this thread are taking ages to load and the pictures aren't showing. And on the Classic Model Boats thread I can't even get back to one post.

    Anyway Bob, reason I'm saying this is that I posted a picture of a modified bow. Because of the increased size of Sprite Plus, as you say the front looks too wide and blunt so I put some angle into it. Not so good for pushing but looks a lot better.

    Chris

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rapier 1.
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 28 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    What is that pile of bricks/concrete(?) sitting in the water? As anyone ever hit it?

    We have a hazard in our lake being a steel launching cradle - you really have to watch it coming round the last bouy, particularly when racing.

    I caught it once when practising with my Club 500 - bent the rudder and dislodged the servo and battery trays which I replaced with ply.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Water-Cooled Model Power Boat Engines.
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 9 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Yes, I agree with what is said about running motors in a vice but we did all sorts of stupid things when we were young!

    As you say, a control line motor. My brother was into those and an RC stock car he built and later RC aircraft.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Water-Cooled Model Power Boat Engines.
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 14 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    I didn't have much to do with model IC when I was young, actually not much to do with models at all apart from a few Airfix aircraft kits, toy boats and a pond yacht, though I did experience full-size boats and was in the Sea Scouts (despite being in the Midlands!) hence my interest in model boats when looking for a winter hobby when approaching retirement.

    But one thing I did build was a high wing aircraft for which I got a FROG 249 diesel. I didn't fly it though as it was quite a big plane and free flight and the motor doesn't have throttle control. I only ran the motor a few times held in the vice in the garage.

    Just dug it out and it turns over fine. The compression screw is tight and probably needs some easing. The plane went some 50 to 60 years ago.

    I also have a Mamod twin cylinder stationary steam engine that I havenโ€™t run for many years.

    Chris

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: LesRo Rapier 1 Rebuild.
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 1 Like
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    You are the master of saving old models Bob.

    As you've said before it's harder than building from new and there can be some real challenges.

    ๐Ÿ“ construction Boat Mr Kim film fifth element
    8 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 23 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    There's certainly some detail work in that!

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    8 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 45 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Can't argue with any of that Bob.

    Whilst the Sprite Plus is a little shorter at 30" I have a feeling that it will cope with rougher conditions just fine! ๐Ÿ˜€

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    8 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 30 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Balsa block when coated in epoxy resin is very strong and resists dings or maybe fibreglass it?

    If it does get dinged you can soon fill and repaint just the nose anyway.

    ๐Ÿ“ Is this site running slow?
    9 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 6 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    One thing that is still happening is that topics are still very slow to open if at all if trying to access via Trending Topics.

    Not a biggie as can be started via the relevant heading e.g. Build Blogs.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Dumas Pay n' Pak
    9 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Vice Admiral)
    โœง 61 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    You've done a great job of "straightening" her out. Good that you managed to save the ply as it looks to be good quality and a testament to the strength of the construction given the weight of the bricks etc.



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