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    ChrisF
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    Member No.#3875
    Registered๐Ÿ“…10th Sep 2016
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…27th Sep 2025
    City๐Ÿ“Warwick
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
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    Age๐Ÿ‘ถ71
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ922
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    Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
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    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    14 hours ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 11 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Yes, I quite often add additional things to an order so that the postage works out fairer.

    I was annoyed with myself when making a biggish order for timber for a build and stock and forgot to include some essential timber for the build! ๐Ÿ™„

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    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    1 day ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 18 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Making some more more progress on the Sprite Super Duper. Working on the frames now - who thought it was a good idea to have 9 frames including the bow and transom! ๐Ÿ™„ ๐Ÿ˜€

    The number arose basically because I just added extra ones in between those existing whose position in some cases is determined by e.g. the cabin. I could reduce the number but it would only be by 1 or 2 so I'll leave as is for now so I can get the drawing finished. I can soon alter them later if required.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    1 day ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 18 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    As I've standardised on a number of components, a couple of years ago I stocked up as I thought there was a possibility that supplies might be disrupted from China at sometime.

    I bought enough motors and ESCs for all my existing builds that I hadn't already bought them for and estimated future builds (not that many planned after my Faireys) plus a few spares.

    This was also partly prompted by being caught out and not being able to get my favourite alloy motor mount when the company ceased training. I also stocked up on Hitec receivers as manufacture of these stopped (tipped off by a neighbour who also uses Hitec). Fortunately managed to get enough from dealers who still had some and from Ebay.

    Fortunately I've got most of the prop shafts I need as I had to buy those as I went along to incorporate in the construction. Good job given the prices now as mentioned.

    Good job my wife doen't look in the cupboards in my workroom! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
    1 day ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 15 Views ยท 1 Like
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    The problem's with Bob's throttle hand! ๐Ÿคฃ

    ๐Ÿ“ Lost Transmitter
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 10 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    That's good to know if I do change them. Where do you buy the parts?

    Brubaker - this will probably be the way you have to go if you want to save what you have done so far. Out of interest can you post a photo of the boat including the inside.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 17 Views ยท 1 Like
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    I use the maintenance free Raboesch prop shafts in most of my builds but noticed the last time I bought any the price seemed to have suddenly increased. If I used one in the Sprite it would be at least twice the price so the Maxishaft price isn't too bad really and I will probably use one in my Sprite build.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 1 Like
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    This method will be useful for when I make the removable roof for my Fairey Faun, my first build that doesn't have a fully removable superstructure!

    ๐Ÿ“ Lost Transmitter
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 22 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    That's useful to know. Do those for the smaller scales work with Radiolink Tx as well as some of my RTR boats are pretty small?

    We forget sometimes that parts and components can be applicable between cars and other vehicles and boats unless we are interested in and run both.

    ๐Ÿ“ Lost Transmitter
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 24 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    This is the problem with ready-to-run boats that come with their own transmitter. I have a few I use for general boating and club fun racing that ideally I'd like to run with my better quality Radiolink wheel transmitter but as Bobby says components are integrated and I'd have to replace everything except the motors. Whilst they are working I'm not going to bother.

    Trouble is as well that problems may be experienced in finding space for any replacement receiver and ESC as likely they will be bigger.

    ๐Ÿ“ Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 29 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Turnigy is a brand in its own right and confusingly HobbyKing is a supplier as opposed to the HobbyWing brand that produce the Quicrun and Seaking ESCs. A Turnigy program card, if available for your particular ESC would be needed.

    When I first ordered an ESC, from Component Shop, I ordered a 60amp Leopard Hobby and when it arrived found it was a HobbyWing Quicrun that had been supplied. I was on the verge of sending it back but when comparing specs and looks it appeared to be identical so kept it, especially as other users gave them good reports and they and the water-cooled Seaking have become my standard ESCs. I think I read somewhere that Leopard could use the HobbyWing Program Card but my memory is not clear on that now and I have no need to find out.

    Here is the HobbyWing Seaking ESC I bought to use in my Swordsman.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Aerokits Sea Commander. Strange Handling ?
    2 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 23 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Yeah, we did mention that in one of the posts I think Will and could be likely as the bow drops so much when coming off the power.

    I noticed it a bit when doing water trials with my Huntsman 28. Not to the extent that Bob's model does but just a bit of a snatch when turning sharply. The chine rails don't turn up much at the bow. I just turn slower and more gently now! ๐Ÿ˜€

    Things might alter when the build is finished and the weight distribution changes a bit.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Bob, are they not the HobbyWing Seaking then?

    Or are they of Seaking manufacturer which I can't find any info. on?

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 17 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Morning Bob. Great minds think alike! I was only thinking earlier about a split front screen, particularly as the model is bigger than original.

    Not sure about the vee because as you say the blunt front end but that can easily be accommodated if you wish. How difficult will it be to make the removable roof if curved and with a vee?

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 15 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Do you like the angle of the deck? Only a bit but to my mind it looks better than being parallel to the keel and gives a bit more depth to the bow.

    Fortunately I'm going to be a little less busy than anticipated over the next few days so will be able to progress the drawings.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 15 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    See what I mean and I've added a curve between the cabin and coaming! ๐Ÿ˜

    ๐Ÿ“ Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 34 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Thanks Doug, that's brilliant!

    I either never had, or have mislaid the instructions for the LED program card (surprised if mislaid as I keep all my instructions in a folder but you never know) and because of what is said in the ESC instructions concluded that you couldn't use the program card - and not helped by what the vendors say in their descriptions or don't say! I've now downloaded the program card instructions.

    The two models I'm using the 16BL30 in are only slow speed craft and I was able to set up OK using bleeps for the forward-Reverse and battery cut-off so that's fine but I will check using the program card.

    So, great info. Though I doubt Bob will be using a 30amp ESC in any of his models!

    Chris

    ๐Ÿ“ Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 1 Like
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    I didn't buy mine that long ago but see that they have bought out an updated version namely the WP 16BL30 G2 Brushless Sensorless Mini 30A ESC which does accept card programming!

    As you've been using yours for many years doubt that yours are the updated version.

    ๐Ÿ“ Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 39 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Doug - when did you buy yours? I hope I am wrong but I'm using two of those (and have more in stock) presently and had to program them using the "bleep" method which applies in more than one way! ๐Ÿ˜€

    From memory they don't have a port for connecting the card to and I'm pretty sure that in the instructions it says you can't use a card. Paradoxically you can program the 30amp SeaKing.

    I'll have to check the instructions.

    There you go, no programming port for the 16BL30. Trust me I tried to find somewhere to connect my program card and was very disappointed that I couldn't! I think, again from memory that the 60amp and above use the port for the fan which the 30amp doesn't have.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 1 Like
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    I must admit when I look at the side view that it needs a bit of angle to the deck to deepen the bow! ๐Ÿ˜†

    ๐Ÿ“ Adding a Reverse to Forwards Only ESC?
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 34 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Bob, the HobbyWing SeaKing and the non-water-cooled Quicrun ESCs, both of which are my go to ESCs (more of the Quicruns) can be programmed in a number of ways including forward only and forward-reverse - all of mine being the latter.

    Apart from the 30amp Quicrun, all can be programmed using a dedicated card, which is around ยฃ10. This makes programming a doddle and includes things like cut-off voltage for LiPos, soft/hard start response and throttle settings etc.

    Once programmed for forward-reverse the stick when at the middle position is zero throttle/neutral.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 18 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Interesting Harry, do you know who came up with those modifications?

    Trouble is I suppose, that it is moving away from the simple original design and those type of additions are at odds with a lack of window frames etc.

    But that's never stopped us and there will be a temptation with our bigger Sprite Plus to add detail! ๐Ÿ˜€

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    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 23 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Rudder moved to 70mm from stern, water inlet added and prop shaft and motor repositioned for 45mm prop.

    As you can see there is plenty of leeway if you want to allow for a bigger prop than this. These changes unsurprisingly didn't make make any difference to the length of the prop tube so remains at 11". This assumes that the motor mount can be fitted that low in the hull OK? Not a problem I guess with that type of design unlike the ones I usually use. I do have one I used for dimensions when working on the Stiletto derivatives and will use it in Sprite Plus!

    Upstand to be added to keel to support the rudder.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 23 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    It's no problem altering it Bob and you will building it first I think!

    I'll work on it being a 45mm prop positioned close to the bottom of the hull and position the water inlet between it and the rudder. I think this model will fly even with a max 45mm prop!

    Once everything else is drawn the frames will be easy peasy!

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 26 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    The prop tube as drawn is 11" but this might change when I make the alterations to accommodate the 55 prop? Though I guess this can be achieved by increasing the angle though I like to try and keep as shallow as possible - what is the max. angle you are happy with?

    Yes, bulkheads are 4mm and the keel and doublers 6mm with the doublers reducing to 3 or 4mm in front of the prop tube though they can be 6mm all the way. Stringers will be the usual 2 No. laminated at 1/8 x 1/4" or 3.2 x 6.5mm.

    Not had any time to do anymore today and I've got a pretty busy week but if I do get time I'll have a look at the prop tube. What length do you usually use?

    Are you going to water-cool?

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Bow Blocks.
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 28 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Nice job. It's unusual not to position the bow former inline with the chine and therefore called chine former as that would have negated the need for the chine to be formed in the balsa block as the side skin would be taken there. I'm guessing the slight curvature at the bow rail stopped being able to do that?

    ๐Ÿ“ VIC SMEED'S VIVACITY
    7 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 26 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    As Bob says a triangular fillet is common practice with another being a P bracket as I often use.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 34" Lesro Sportman mk1
    7 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 7 Views ยท 1 Like
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    You're not selling the restoration route to me Bob! ๐Ÿคฃ

    More elements of the Sprite can be seen in this one.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    7 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 45 Views ยท 1 Like
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    If you message me when you're ready with your email address I'll send you the PDFs.

    ๐Ÿ“ Sprite
    7 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 25 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    I think you're right Bob, it will make a great everyday model.

    I'm a bit (well a lot!) precious about my Faireys, because of the amount of work I've put into them and the uniqueness of some of them and it will be good to have something relatively simple, quick to build and if it does take a knock it will be easy to fix.

    My plastic RTR boats serve that purpose but it will be nice to have a timber, self-build to fulfill that role as well.

    Not been able to do much of anything today as the back door lock decided to self-distruct when locked and I've had the fun job of replacing it!

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Classic Model Power Boats
    7 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง ChrisF ( Commodore)
    โœง 46 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Dave

    As you are thinking of changing the superstructure you could make it more modern by using one of the designs that was a joint venture between Bob, Will and myself if you fancy it?

    It started off with Bob and Will wanting the frames for a Stiletto but thoughts then turned to wanting one a bit bigger between the Stiletto and Rapier, about 33", and then making it more modern.

    This was around 3 years ago and for various reasons we haven't built one yet. I've since taken it a stage further and modified one of the designs as I wanted to build something with a water-jet and with this hull I think it should perform well. I bought the water-jet unit well over 12 months ago and haven't started it yet as I've returned to my Faireys which I must finish - but this winter, who knows!



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