Lew:

Great advice—that’s a really good point about the figures. I’m going to rethink the scale and likely change it.

“By wise guidance you can wage your war, and in an abundance of counselors there is victory.” — Proverbs 24:6

This forum has an abundance of counselors for sure.

I double-checked the blueprints, and at 1/35 scale the model would only come out to about 26", which is a bit smaller than what I had in mind

I may need to look at a larger scale to get the size I’m after—open to suggestions if anyone has gone through this before.

😎

JockScott,
Are you referring to the Pamir—the large steel sailing ship, a four-masted barque and one of the last commercial windjammers still operating in the 1950s?
As I understand it, the grain cargo shifted in the holds—a known risk if not properly secured—which caused the ship to list heavily. Combined with the storm conditions, she lost stability and eventually capsized. Out of 86 people onboard, only 6 survived. A tragic event that really shook the maritime world.
So what you’re saying is that this powerful, real-life story drew you in—possibly even more than the idea of building the tug Mariana?
A tug like Mariana is quite the opposite type of project—more focused on machinery, piping, winches, and overall function. It’s about realism and engineering rather than romance, often built as a working RC model.
That said, I know you’ve got a strong feel for both sides of the hobby.
😎

At this point, I went ahead and coated the entire outside of the hull with CA glue, following the instructions from the manufacturer. I know—it might sound a little crazy, but I figured I’d give it a try and see how it turns out.

They mention that the CA will soak into all the joints and seams, helping to strengthen the hull and also even out the color of the wood. With all the planking lines, that actually makes a lot of sense.

To apply it, I wrapped a small disposable brush with wax paper and used that to spread the glue around—just like they suggested. Surprisingly, it works pretty well and gives decent control.

We all have our own ways of doing things, but every now and then it’s fun to try something different from one build to another.
😎

After the hull was fully planked, I started the long process of fairing and smoothing everything out.
At that stage, the overall shape of the boat really began to come alive, and I could finally appreciate those beautiful Galilee boat lines.

The bow and stern needed a bit more careful attention to get both sides looking even and balanced. That was probably the trickiest part, but little by little it all came together.

Looking at these photos now, I still think the designer did an excellent job with the plank layout.
Once sanded, the hull flows very naturally from end to end, and the shape looks just right to my eye.

At this point, the model was still on the strongback, but it was already giving a very good idea of how elegant the finished boat would look.

😎

After making a jig to help shape the parts, I decided to experiment with a darker wood for the stern and keel. In theory it sounded like a good idea… in practice, not so much. It just didn’t look right, so I went back to the original mahogany pieces that came with the kit.

Lesson learned—sometimes the kit designers knew exactly what they were doing from the start.

😎

And no… don’t try this at home, kids 😄

Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of how I first started the planking, so I’m including a few reference images from the manual to show the initial steps.

These are just a few of the many images that helped me decide how to approach building the model. Besides that, they all gave me a bit of inspiration along the way.

The first one is, of course, The Storm on the Sea of Galilee by Rembrandt van Rijn. It’s a powerful scene, but you can notice that the artist took some liberties—like adding a flag to the boat. As far as historians can tell, fishing boats of that time didn’t carry flags.

Still, these images capture something deeper than just historical detail. They reflect moments like those described in the Gospels, when Jesus calmed the storm and strengthened the faith of his disciples (Mark 4:39). That sense of struggle, trust, and calm after the storm is what I tried to keep in mind while working on the model.
😎

This is the strongback mounted on its base.
You really have to read the instructions carefully, because there’s only one correct way to assemble it.

The last two pictures show an idea I came up with after I had to remove the hull due to not following the instructions properly.
I ended up asking Scott for more planks, and he kindly supplied them for a few extra dollars.
What I did was add wax paper over the frame forms so the glue wouldn’t stick to them. That way, if I ever want to reuse the strongback for another model, it will stay intact—and it worked perfectly.
😎

Without further ado—and humbly tipping my hat to LyleK1—here is the start of my building log.

I’ll begin with the kit contents.

This is a strongback-style kit, with the base provided in two sections. As you can see in the photos, Scott has meticulously marked all the parts, making identification very straightforward.

The step-by-step instructions come on a CD. I printed all 54 pages so I could have them handy at the bench.

When I first opened the kit, I was really impressed to see that all of the hull planks were already tapered. That detail truly blew my mind. After so much experimentation, Scott clearly arrived at the perfect tapering for this build.
So, as I mentioned before, this is a very approachable kit—as long as you follow his instructions carefully.
😎

This boat is currently preserved and displayed at the Yigal Allon Museum.
In the last picture, I noticed a mosaic artwork in the background that appears to depict a Phoenician-style vessel, which I found quite interesting.

Since there is limited detailed information available about the Galilee boat itself, I based much of my research on similar vessels from the Phoenician, Greek, and Roman periods to better understand construction methods and overall design.

While there is no evidence that this was the exact boat used by Jesus and his disciples, it dates to the same time period—around the 1st century AD—and closely matches the type of working boats used in that region.
😎

Hello everyone,

I’d like to share a project I completed some time ago—a Galilee boat from around 40–50 BC, built at 1:24 scale. It was a very enjoyable build, mainly because of its historical background and straightforward construction.

I think it’s always important to mention the story behind a model, and this kit comes from SE Miller Guitars, owned by Scott Miller:

http://www.semillerguitars.com/sea-of-galilee-boats/

JockScott:Hi Joe,
I completely understand your point, and I actually agree with you. That personal connection is what really keeps a project alive, especially during those long stretches when progress slows down. Without that, it’s very easy to lose motivation and let a build fade away.

Your experience on that tug sounds incredible—three weeks on the Rio Napo in a convoy like that is something not many people can say they’ve done. That alone is more than enough reason to bring that particular boat to life as a model. You already have the most important ingredient: the story behind it.

As for not having plans, don’t let that stop you. With your photos and your firsthand experience, you actually have a big advantage. You can work from similar tug designs and adapt the details to match what you remember.
Many of these push tugs share common proportions and layouts, so a set of general blueprints can get you 80% there, and your memories will take care of the rest.
In a way, that makes the project even more unique—because it becomes your tug, not just a copy of a set of plans.
If you decide to go that route, I’d be more than happy to help you get started with some reference drawings and ideas.
😎

Lew:
My mind is set up already, that’s my next model Based on my blueprints. I of course might trick a couple of things just to make it more interesting.
I was thinking to build her anywhere from 30-40”, but 36” seems the right size.

At the bottom of the plan it shows the vessel length as 125 ft (full scale).
Convert to inches
125 ft × 12 = 1500 inches (real boat)
My model, I want: 36 inches.

Scale calculation
Scale=
1500
36
​
=0.024
Invert it:
36
1500
​
≈41.7
Final scale:
≈ 1:42 scale
😎

Jumpugly, great progress on your Brooklyn tugboat. 😍
The addition of the rubbing strakes adds a lot of realism to the hull, and the overall finish is impressively clean and precise. Excellent craftsmanship.
😎

Hi Alessandro,

How about going for a simple scratch-built model?
After a long, tedious project, it’s always nice to build something a bit easier—just to catch your breath and enjoy the process again.

As it happens, a certain modeler from this forum=, will soon be starting a build log on a push tug… and that got me thinking. As soon as I finish my Juanita, I’ll be starting a build log of my own for a push tug as well.

This type of build can be quite straightforward, especially if you have the right blueprints. I happen to have a very old set of plans that I’ll be using for mine.

I’m sharing the blueprints along with a few photos of real vessels for reference—the first two are actual boats built from those same plans.
😎

Just letting everyone know that the Dumas kit #2339 has found a new home with one of our members. Thanks to all who showed interest!
😎

THE HOMEBOUND PENNANT

This type of pennant served a different purpose.

Some ships in the U.S. Navy marked their journey home by flying a homeward bound pennant.
These were custom-made and often extremely long—sometimes supported to keep them from dragging in the water.

They symbolized the end of a voyage and were part of a long-standing naval tradition.

The one I made for the SC-96 represents a 285-foot pennant, with one star for each officer and one foot for each crew member (13 in total). It reflects the occasion when the ship steamed into San Francisco Bay on her return.
At first, I printed 22 stars, but later found out that the SC-96 only had 13 officers, so I corrected it.

I followed the same process used for the flags, but printed this one on a larger-format printer to achieve the length and keep the stars evenly spaced.
It’s the same printer I worked with for over 27 years before retiring—though I still get the chance to use it now and then.

The pennant is first printed on paper just like the other flags, then hand-painted to finish.

😎

Now for THE PENDANTS.

Always beautiful and colorful.
They were meant to show life, motion, and presence even when the wind was barely there.

Here is a brief history about them:
Pennants (or pendants) go back to medieval times, when they were used on lances and ships to show identity.
By the Age of Sail, they became standard on naval vessels, usually flown from the masthead.
The most important was the commissioning pennant, which showed a warship was officially in service—it stayed up the entire time the ship was active.
Their length and style could also indicate rank or command.
Aside from symbolism, their long, narrow shape made them very visible even in light wind, which helped with identification at sea.
So while they look decorative, pennants were really a mix of signal, status, and tradition.

Steps for Making Scale Pennants

1. Research & Artwork
Like the other flags, always try to obtain reference material for the design. At this scale, simplify the artwork but keep the key elements recognizable.

2. Print & Prepare
Print the pennant design on good-quality paper. Keep proportions accurate and leave extra margin for handling.

3. Paint & Detail
Paint the colors carefully. Use fine brushes for the emblem and outlines. At this scale, suggestion of detail is more important than perfection.

4. Cut to Shape
Cut the pennant cleanly to its final outline, including the taper and any split tails if required.

5. Form the Shape
Gently pre-shape the pennant to simulate wind flow. Slight curves and twists will make a big difference in realism.

6. Make the Frame
Using thin brass wire, form a triangular frame. Solder or secure the joints, then add small bead tips to represent finials.

7. Paint the Frame
Paint the triangular wire to resemble rope, giving it a more realistic and period-correct appearance.

8.Rope Effect Tip:
Paint the wire a light tan or beige base coat, then lightly drag a very fine brush with a slightly darker brown in a subtle spiral motion along the wire. Finish with a thin wash to blend it—this gives the impression of twisted rope without overdoing the detail.

9. Attach the Pennant
Glue the pennant to the frame, wrapping slightly around the leading edge if needed.

10. Rigging Lines
Add fine thread or line to the frame. Keep it light—too heavy will ruin the scale effect.

11. Final Shaping
Once installed, adjust the pennant to create a natural flowing motion. Avoid symmetry—real wind never looks perfect.

12. Weathering (Optional)
Lightly tone down colors or add subtle wear if you want a more realistic, aged look.

Thank you to everyone who has been following along with this tutorial.
This marks the end of the flag tutorial—I hope someone can benefit from it.
😎

Hey guys,
I’ve got a complete motor and running hardware set for the Dumas American Beauty (#1215) available if anyone is interested.

This is the full Dumas kit #2339, including:
Shafts & stuffing boxes
Bronze props
Rudders, shafts & tubes
Drive dogs, arms, and fittings
Electric motor

All associated hardware (as shown in the photos)
Everything is new and unused, still in original packaging.

If you’re building the American Beauty—or thinking about it—this saves you hunting down all the running gear separately.
I’m happy to let it go for a very reasonable price to a fellow builder.
👉 Feel free to PM me if interested or if you need more details.
😎

She’s really coming along beautifully now—deck, bulwarks, and cap rails all in place, it must be very satisfying to see her take shape like that.

Your craftsmanship really shows through in every stage. The attention to detail is excellent, and she’s clearly becoming a very impressive ship.

Looking forward to seeing the rub rails go on—keep the updates coming.
😎

Do we have any members from the Netherlands here on the forum?

I’d really appreciate your input on these Dutch flags.

😎

CONTINUING :

9. Next, flip the painted flag onto its back and hand-draw small oval shapes along the center line. These will later simulate the spaced attachment points of a flag being pulled by the wind. (pic #1)

10. Now take a thin thread (or rope) and carefully glue it along the cut-out openings, following the line of the ovals. This will represent the rope used to secure the flag to the halyard.
Take your time positioning it so it sits naturally along the edge, as this detail will enhance the overall realism and give the impression of a properly rigged, wind-tensioned flag.
The loops were added afterward. (pic. #2 and 3)

11. Now fold the flag with the painted side facing out. Carefully cut out the oval openings (half-moon shapes) along the edge. Once done, glue only the cut-outs, making sure the rope sits neatly inside them.
Do not apply glue to the flag faces just yet—that will come later. Take your time aligning the edges so everything matches cleanly, as this step locks everything in place and gives the flag its final, realistic shape. (pics. # 4-6)

12. Using a long needle, carefully create a small hole through each of the cut-out openings. These holes will allow the attaching rope to pass through, just like on a real flag.
Take your time and make sure the holes are centered and clean, as this will help the flag hang naturally once rigged. (pic #7)

13. Now for the grand finale.
Fold both halves of the flag together using white glue—apply just enough to bond them, but not so much that it oozes out. Don’t worry if the paper feels slightly wet; remember it was pre-sealed earlier with clear coat.
Here comes the critical part: before the glue dries, begin shaping the flag by hand (or using any preferred method) to create natural waves and movement. I used different small dowel diameters and semi-wrapped the wet flag with varying twists, similar to what I did with the Arrested flag.
Don’t worry if both halves don’t align perfectly along the edges. Once everything is fully dry, you can trim the edges with scissors and touch them up with paint.
After the flag has dried in the desired shape, apply small amounts of CA glue along the attachment edge to seal and strengthen that area. Once that has cured, you can make the small holes for the attaching rope. (pics. 8,9).

14. Once the flag has dried completely, check the edges and trim them evenly. After trimming, touch up and paint the edges to give the flag a clean and finished look. (pic #10)

15. Attach the flag to the mast, spar, or flagpole using the holes you made earlier with the needle and a very thin rope. Secure it carefully so it sits naturally along the staff. Don’t forget to also add a halyard to complete the installation.
Here you can see the results of wetting and wrapping the flag using different dowel thicknesses, which helps create a more natural and dynamic flow to the fabric.

Next entry I will explain "How to create the Pendants"
😎

Great work, Nick—you’re already past the halfway mark! That’s fantastic progress, and it’s really shaping up beautifully.
😎

Introduction:

Hi everyone,
I’d like to share a small tutorial on how I make my own custom flags for my models, particularly focusing on antique Dutch (Holland) flags like the ones I’ve made for my Half Moon build.


Before getting into it, I just want to say that this is simply my way of doing it.
There are many different approaches out there, and every modeler tends to develop their own methods and preferences over time. This is just one option that has worked well for me.

As a bit of background, the Half Moon (Halve Maen) was the ship used by Henry Hudson in 1609 while sailing under the Dutch East India Company. During this period, Dutch vessels often carried a variety of flags—not only the familiar tricolor, but also regional, company, and heraldic designs such as the Prince’s Flag and the Dutch lion emblem.

These flags added a lot of character and identity to the ships, which is something I wanted to reflect in my model.
Hopefully, some of you might find this useful, or at least it may give you a few ideas for your own builds.

(picture #1)
I’ll start with the 🦁 Dutch Lion (Leo Belgicus / States General emblem), which I’ve placed on the main mast—and to me, it’s the best-looking one of the lot.

The rest of the flags were all made using the same method, so once you see this one, the others follow exactly the same process.

The Meaning of the elements:
• 🦁 Lion (Leo Belgicus)
o Symbol of strength, courage, and sovereignty
o Used widely across the Low Countries
• ⚔️ Sword
o Represents defense and readiness to fight for independence
o Especially tied to the Dutch struggle during the Eighty Years’ War
• 🎯 Bundle of arrows
o Each arrow = one of the Seven United Provinces
o Bound together = unity and strength through cooperation
• 🔴 Red background (field)
o A bold heraldic color symbolizing power and authority
is emblem represents the Dutch Republic and its unity during the 16th–17th centuries.

1. First, I search the web for the most appropriate flag design.
Once I find it, I print it out at full size.
Using tracing paper, I then hand-draw the image with a fine-point black pen, adding a bit of extra shading—you’ll see later why. (picture #2)

2. Once I’ve completed the ink hand drawing, I make a copy and reduce it to the scale needed.
It’s also important to create a reverse copy of the image, as the finished flag will have an opposite side (this method isn’t applicable to all flags). This is where tracing paper becomes very useful—you can simply flip it over to produce a mirrored version of the artwork.

3. Now for the final shape. Don’t draw the flag as a perfect square—add some natural waves to give it movement. Also include the attachment edge where the flag will be secured using a needle and thread—you’ll see how this comes together later. (picture #3 and #4)

4. Once you have both sides printed to the correct size, it’s time to pre-seal the paper.
Before painting, pre-seal the paper by spraying one light coat of satin clear enamel, and then apply another light coat after you’ve finished painting. (picture #5)

5. Now you have both sides of the flag (one right and one left) along with the final wavy shape.
At this stage, pick up your brush—and maybe a small shot of whiskey to steady the hand—and start painting.
In my case, I painted the red background using small brush strokes to give it a fabric-like texture.
For the lion, I used three different shades of yellow, along with blue for the claws and to add depth to the sword shadows.

6. Once the red background had fully dried, I proceeded to paint the main yellow base for the lion.

7. Next, I added a lighter shade to create the highlights on the lion. (picture #7)

8. Next color. (picture #8)

9. Adding the blue. (picture #9)
As you can see here, painting the background with a fine brush gives the flag a subtle texture, creating the visual impression of real cloth.

Next entry I will show how to attach the flags to the model.

Jumugly:
Man, you are moving pretty fast.
😎

Edw:
What a feast for the eyes—truly a modeler’s heaven. The level of craftsmanship and variety on display must have been absolutely inspiring. Thanks for sharing that glimpse of Switzerland’s show with us!
😎

Jmpugly:
Great model to work on — that’s a big one, almost 40” long.

This is a railroad tug:
• Her job was to move “car floats,” basically floating barges loaded with railroad cars
• She would shuttle them across New York Harbor, connecting the rail lines between New Jersey, Brooklyn, and Manhattan
• Back then, before tunnels and modern freight systems, this was absolutely essential infrastructure for moving freight around the city

Really fascinating piece of maritime and rail history brought to life in model form.
😎

Alessandro:

The Half Moon was actually the first wooden model ship I ever built, and unfortunately I don’t have a build log for it. At the time, I never thought I would be able to finish it—let alone have it turn out the way it did.

Back then, I didn’t even know forums like this existed, so it was a very challenging build with no prior experience and no guidance from anyone.

This forum is truly a great place for both newcomers and experienced builders to share advice and opinions.

It helps all of us improve—not only in making our models look better, but also in achieving better performance.

I’m very glad to follow so many fellow modelers and continue learning more about this wonderful hobby.

I do have a sequence of pictures showing how I hand-build and paint my flags, which I will post.
Sometimes our kits don’t include accurately scaled flags, or we may want to add others that simply aren’t available on the market.
😎

LewZ;
you are a great detective.
😎

Lew:
You are a grreat detective.
😎

Stephen
That is a great question for all of us.
😎