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Followed Julio 10 hours ago
United States
Recent Posts
💬 Re: Checking in the pond
3 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 (
Captain)
Captain)✧ 24 Views · 2 Likes
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Kevin:
I may be mistaken, but from the picture you posted it seems the paddle wheels might be sitting a little on the high side, with perhaps not quite as much contact with the water as one would expect.
Maybe once the rest of the structure and the remaining components are added, the wheels will naturally sit a bit lower and the immersion will look just right.
😎
I may be mistaken, but from the picture you posted it seems the paddle wheels might be sitting a little on the high side, with perhaps not quite as much contact with the water as one would expect.
Maybe once the rest of the structure and the remaining components are added, the wheels will naturally sit a bit lower and the immersion will look just right.
😎
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hermank
Ronald
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💬 Re: JUANITA STERN WHEELKER
3 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 12 Views · 2 Likes
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I want to thank all of the ways that share with me their favorite way of applying a finish to their model.
So far, I have never used acrylics on my models just the thought that they are water base draws me away from them, but on the other hand I have to accept Ronald's positive experience with acrylics showing they are reliable.
Both Ronald and Jumpugly are correct about the Minwax products.
For many years I owned a door business and applied this products on many kind of wood with a very lasting results.
Some times when the doors where very exposed to the Miami sun for a very long time during the day, the customers will call me back after 3 or 4 years to refinish the door because the finish had dried and became very yellowish, but I guess that will be a good products to apply over models mahogany decks and after all we only take them out once in a wile.
After experimenting with several commercial rattle cans, my favorites so far are Tamiya, Vallejo, and Citadel.
After stripping the Juanita’s bottom hull four times and refinishing it, I finally achieved the finish I was looking for using Tamiya Black and Tamiya Clear. The only downside with this product is that the cans are small and don’t last very long.
Like Jumpugly said:
“Remember the old rule: If you think it's gassed out, it hasn't… and if you think it's dry, it's not.”
Very wise words when dealing with paints and finishes. 😄
😎
So far, I have never used acrylics on my models just the thought that they are water base draws me away from them, but on the other hand I have to accept Ronald's positive experience with acrylics showing they are reliable.
Both Ronald and Jumpugly are correct about the Minwax products.
For many years I owned a door business and applied this products on many kind of wood with a very lasting results.
Some times when the doors where very exposed to the Miami sun for a very long time during the day, the customers will call me back after 3 or 4 years to refinish the door because the finish had dried and became very yellowish, but I guess that will be a good products to apply over models mahogany decks and after all we only take them out once in a wile.
After experimenting with several commercial rattle cans, my favorites so far are Tamiya, Vallejo, and Citadel.
After stripping the Juanita’s bottom hull four times and refinishing it, I finally achieved the finish I was looking for using Tamiya Black and Tamiya Clear. The only downside with this product is that the cans are small and don’t last very long.
Like Jumpugly said:
“Remember the old rule: If you think it's gassed out, it hasn't… and if you think it's dry, it's not.”
Very wise words when dealing with paints and finishes. 😄
😎
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Ronald
Mike Stoney
📝 Dumas Closing
3 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 33 Views · 2 Likes
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Jumpugly:
I will have a conversation with ME production manager, but from what I know, for now they just obtain a huge shipments with lots of Dumas kits but he didn’t mentioned anything about reproducing Dumas kits.
I’ll keep you posted.
😎
I will have a conversation with ME production manager, but from what I know, for now they just obtain a huge shipments with lots of Dumas kits but he didn’t mentioned anything about reproducing Dumas kits.
I’ll keep you posted.
😎
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hermank
jumpugly
📝 JUANITA STERN WHEELKER
4 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 24 Views · 4 Likes · 2 Comments
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Tomorrow the video I uploaded to YouTube should be ready. It shows all the different colours that were needed to paint the stern and the back splash.
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jumpugly
pressonreguardless
Mike Stoney
hermank
💬 Re: JUANITA STERN WHEELER
4 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 24 Views · 3 Likes
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Brinkman,
I do believe that persistence and devotion are two elements we all need when it comes to model ship building.
Thanks for those kind words.
😎
I do believe that persistence and devotion are two elements we all need when it comes to model ship building.
Thanks for those kind words.
😎
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pressonreguardless
hermank
DWBrinkman
📝 JUANITA STERN WHEELER
4 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 24 Views · 4 Likes · 5 Comments
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So, after I took many precautions and sprayed the red decanted color and waited 48 hours, it was time to take the final step and that is applying the clear coat.
After the two-day curing period of the red paint, I applied the final clear coat using Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic. I used the same method as with the color coat: a light mist coat first, followed by progressively wetter coats with drying time between them.
Sooo....
CLEAR ALSO WRINKLED.
Im glad I don't own a gun or I have shooted the damed thing.
Now I tried a different approach, I used this recently acquired wet sand papers from Amazone.
I wet sanded the surface starting with 800 grit, then moved to 1000, followed by 2000, and finally finished with 3000 grit.
Once I could see that the wrinkled finish was completely gone and the surface was nice and smooth again, I moved on to polishing.
For that I used my XMT Series polishing compounds, working backwards from #4 down to #1, gradually bringing the shine back to the surface. After that, I applied a final coat of Best of Show Wax to give it that last bit of depth and gloss.
😎
After the two-day curing period of the red paint, I applied the final clear coat using Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic. I used the same method as with the color coat: a light mist coat first, followed by progressively wetter coats with drying time between them.
Sooo....
CLEAR ALSO WRINKLED.
Im glad I don't own a gun or I have shooted the damed thing.
Now I tried a different approach, I used this recently acquired wet sand papers from Amazone.
I wet sanded the surface starting with 800 grit, then moved to 1000, followed by 2000, and finally finished with 3000 grit.
Once I could see that the wrinkled finish was completely gone and the surface was nice and smooth again, I moved on to polishing.
For that I used my XMT Series polishing compounds, working backwards from #4 down to #1, gradually bringing the shine back to the surface. After that, I applied a final coat of Best of Show Wax to give it that last bit of depth and gloss.
😎
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Mike Stoney
hermank
pressonreguardless
DWBrinkman
💬 Re: Painted paddle wheels
5 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 42 Views · 5 Likes
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Kevin:
I absolutely love the beauty of the brass and red contrast … it gives the paddle wheels a powerful industrial, nostalgic character.
The precision and engineering of the assemblies are truly impressive; every detail looks purposeful and finely executed.
This stern wheeler is clearly on its way to becoming another classical museum-quality piece.
Outstanding craftsmanship.
😎
I absolutely love the beauty of the brass and red contrast … it gives the paddle wheels a powerful industrial, nostalgic character.
The precision and engineering of the assemblies are truly impressive; every detail looks purposeful and finely executed.
This stern wheeler is clearly on its way to becoming another classical museum-quality piece.
Outstanding craftsmanship.
😎
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Ronald
AlessandroSPQR
hermank
Mike Stoney
pressonreguardless
💬 Re: Second run of primer...
6 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 18 Views · 4 Likes
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Jumpugly:
Your model looks like a very good candidate for using a small touch-up spray gun and decanting your Krylon Fusion.
I’ve used that rattle can before and still keep a few in my arsenal.
When you decant your favorite color, thin it with the proper thinner and spray a light mist coat first, then a medium coat, and finally a wet coat, waiting about 30 minutes between coats.
Doing it this way gives you much better control over the finish and helps avoid runs or orange peel. The same principle applies even when spraying straight from the can, but with the gun you get a lot more control.
That’s what I would do… but I have a serious case of Modeler’s Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, so I tend to overdo things a bit.
Here is the type of spray gun I would recommend.
The truth is that for many years I did a lot of wood finishing, spray work, and even some car painting and restorations, so I got very used to working with spray equipment.
This is my 1973 Volkswagen Beetle, which took me 19 years to restore. Still one of my favourite projects to this day.
😎
Your model looks like a very good candidate for using a small touch-up spray gun and decanting your Krylon Fusion.
I’ve used that rattle can before and still keep a few in my arsenal.
When you decant your favorite color, thin it with the proper thinner and spray a light mist coat first, then a medium coat, and finally a wet coat, waiting about 30 minutes between coats.
Doing it this way gives you much better control over the finish and helps avoid runs or orange peel. The same principle applies even when spraying straight from the can, but with the gun you get a lot more control.
That’s what I would do… but I have a serious case of Modeler’s Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, so I tend to overdo things a bit.
Here is the type of spray gun I would recommend.
The truth is that for many years I did a lot of wood finishing, spray work, and even some car painting and restorations, so I got very used to working with spray equipment.
This is my 1973 Volkswagen Beetle, which took me 19 years to restore. Still one of my favourite projects to this day.
😎
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pressonreguardless
EdW
hermank
jumpugly
💬 Re: JUANITA STERN WHEELER
6 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 28 Views · 0 Likes
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BACK SPALSH PAINT REPAIR
Since I’m done installing all the loose deck fittings, it was time to start assembling the paddle wheel. While test-fitting the parts, I noticed that the back splash board had a major flaw.
The red paint was badly damaged and full of tape marks. This happened because I didn’t allow enough drying time before applying masking tape to paint the other sections. Lesson learned the hard way.
To fix it, I had to strip the damaged area, remask everything, wet sand, and repaint.
All together I spent about four days reworking the part, but in the end the finish came out much better and smoother than before.
Sometimes going backwards is the only way to move forward in this hobby.
This time Im using the DECANTING PROCESS.
How it’s usually done:
1. Insert a small straw into the spray nozzle
2. Spray into a glass jar or bottle
3. The paint will come out mixed with propellant
Let it sit a few minutes until the bubbling stops. (picture 7).
Now the paint can be used in an airbrush.
In my case, and since I’m using the Behr No-Drama paint, I decanted the spray can and diluted the propellant-free paint 50/50 with mineral spirits.
Using my airbrush at about 25 psi, I got excellent results.
Now I will wait 48 hours before applying the Krylon Crystal Clear sealer.
😎
Since I’m done installing all the loose deck fittings, it was time to start assembling the paddle wheel. While test-fitting the parts, I noticed that the back splash board had a major flaw.
The red paint was badly damaged and full of tape marks. This happened because I didn’t allow enough drying time before applying masking tape to paint the other sections. Lesson learned the hard way.
To fix it, I had to strip the damaged area, remask everything, wet sand, and repaint.
All together I spent about four days reworking the part, but in the end the finish came out much better and smoother than before.
Sometimes going backwards is the only way to move forward in this hobby.
This time Im using the DECANTING PROCESS.
How it’s usually done:
1. Insert a small straw into the spray nozzle
2. Spray into a glass jar or bottle
3. The paint will come out mixed with propellant
Let it sit a few minutes until the bubbling stops. (picture 7).
Now the paint can be used in an airbrush.
In my case, and since I’m using the Behr No-Drama paint, I decanted the spray can and diluted the propellant-free paint 50/50 with mineral spirits.
Using my airbrush at about 25 psi, I got excellent results.
Now I will wait 48 hours before applying the Krylon Crystal Clear sealer.
😎
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💬 Re: Assembly paddle wheels prior to final finishing
6 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 47 Views · 5 Likes
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Kevin,
Your paddle wheels look like something straight out of a steampunk film — incredibly realistic and beautifully made.
Your precision machining skills leave us all open-mouthed.
The gearbox is magnificent, almost like a Swiss watch mechanism in its detail and craftsmanship.
It’s clear you’re a machinist applying your talent and experience to this wonderful model ship hobby — and the results speak for themselves.
Congratulations on a superb piece of work.
Julian 😎
Your paddle wheels look like something straight out of a steampunk film — incredibly realistic and beautifully made.
Your precision machining skills leave us all open-mouthed.
The gearbox is magnificent, almost like a Swiss watch mechanism in its detail and craftsmanship.
It’s clear you’re a machinist applying your talent and experience to this wonderful model ship hobby — and the results speak for themselves.
Congratulations on a superb piece of work.
Julian 😎
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Ronald
AlessandroSPQR
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Kevin55
💬 Re: Second run of primer...
6 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 19 Views · 2 Likes
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Jumpugly:
Curious what you’d go with for the main finish coat — spray can, airbrush, or touch-up spray gun?
Any pros/cons from your experience?
😎
Curious what you’d go with for the main finish coat — spray can, airbrush, or touch-up spray gun?
Any pros/cons from your experience?
😎
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hermank
jumpugly
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💬 Re: Victorian Steam Launch
7 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 57 Views · 3 Likes
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Kevin,
You’ve just built an authentic museum piece.
Outstanding craftsmanship and attention to detail.
😎
You’ve just built an authentic museum piece.
Outstanding craftsmanship and attention to detail.
😎
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mogmaker
hermank
Kevin55
📝 "MAKE DO AND MEND"
10 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 42 Views · 8 Likes
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I would like to dedicate this post to the many extraordinary modelers on this forum (you know who you are) who take particular pleasure in one of the most intricate aspects of our hobby — restorations.
I always enjoy seeing your new projects and recent finds. No matter how poor the condition of the model when you acquire it, you somehow manage to bring it back to life — often better than it ever was.
So, here are my two penn’orth.
At present, I work part-time in retirement for Creative Displays, a Miami-based exhibition display company. We design and build custom show booths for a wide range of businesses to showcase their products at trade events.
In the photo, you’ll see a table filled with various scale models belonging to different yacht companies we work with. My role is within the Art and Graphics department, where I handle signage and graphic production — printing, laminating, and applying graphics to the many different substrates used throughout the stands.
You’ll also notice my own sloop displayed alongside several of our clients’ models.
And yes… that’s me about ten years ago.
One of the models shown had arrived to us nearly destroyed during shipping. Bringing it back to its original condition proved both challenging and deeply rewarding. It remains one of those restorations I look back on with a quiet sense of pride.
😎
I always enjoy seeing your new projects and recent finds. No matter how poor the condition of the model when you acquire it, you somehow manage to bring it back to life — often better than it ever was.
So, here are my two penn’orth.
At present, I work part-time in retirement for Creative Displays, a Miami-based exhibition display company. We design and build custom show booths for a wide range of businesses to showcase their products at trade events.
In the photo, you’ll see a table filled with various scale models belonging to different yacht companies we work with. My role is within the Art and Graphics department, where I handle signage and graphic production — printing, laminating, and applying graphics to the many different substrates used throughout the stands.
You’ll also notice my own sloop displayed alongside several of our clients’ models.
And yes… that’s me about ten years ago.
One of the models shown had arrived to us nearly destroyed during shipping. Bringing it back to its original condition proved both challenging and deeply rewarding. It remains one of those restorations I look back on with a quiet sense of pride.
😎
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Mike Stoney
GaryLC
zooma
Rookysailor
hermank
Wolle
Ronald
pressonreguardless
📝 JUANITA STERN WHEELER
11 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 44 Views · 7 Likes · 2 Comments
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VERTICAL ACCESS LATTER –
Mounted Aft of the Pilothouse for Roof and Equipment Access.
To create this ladder, the kit fortunately includes a soldering jig, which I followed precisely. However, during final fitting, I discovered that the overall geometry produced by the jig is not entirely accurate.
After reviewing and giving the ladder my final approval, I identified an issue that is not related to workmanship, but rather to the dimensions established by the supplied jig.
Also, in the first picture you will notice a bracket extending from the back of the pilothouse that supports and locates the ladder.
This bracket plays a critical role in maintaining correct alignment and spacing between the ladder and the pilothouse structure, and its position further highlights the dimensional discrepancy created by the kit jig.
On the real vessel, the cross brackets are positioned just above the fourth rung from the bottom. With the kit geometry as supplied, that alignment cannot be achieved correctly.
CORRECTIVE MODIFICATION
To address this kit-related dimensional issue, I added an extension to the bottom of the ladder.
Below are the steps I followed, which you may wish to replicate:
1. Cut away approximately half of the lower section of the ladder assembly.
2. Insert a coupling tube into the lower end of the ladder assembly, applying a small amount of CA glue only to the bottom of the tenons.
3. Once the coupling tube is secured, insert the extension piece.
This modification provides a longer and significantly stronger deck anchorage.
As shown in the final photograph, the extension is barely noticeable and results in a very secure attachment.
Important Note Regarding the Ladder Brackets
When trimming the ladder support brackets to their final length, ensure that they are long enough to be properly inserted into the pilothouse wall.
😎
Mounted Aft of the Pilothouse for Roof and Equipment Access.
To create this ladder, the kit fortunately includes a soldering jig, which I followed precisely. However, during final fitting, I discovered that the overall geometry produced by the jig is not entirely accurate.
After reviewing and giving the ladder my final approval, I identified an issue that is not related to workmanship, but rather to the dimensions established by the supplied jig.
Also, in the first picture you will notice a bracket extending from the back of the pilothouse that supports and locates the ladder.
This bracket plays a critical role in maintaining correct alignment and spacing between the ladder and the pilothouse structure, and its position further highlights the dimensional discrepancy created by the kit jig.
On the real vessel, the cross brackets are positioned just above the fourth rung from the bottom. With the kit geometry as supplied, that alignment cannot be achieved correctly.
CORRECTIVE MODIFICATION
To address this kit-related dimensional issue, I added an extension to the bottom of the ladder.
Below are the steps I followed, which you may wish to replicate:
1. Cut away approximately half of the lower section of the ladder assembly.
2. Insert a coupling tube into the lower end of the ladder assembly, applying a small amount of CA glue only to the bottom of the tenons.
3. Once the coupling tube is secured, insert the extension piece.
This modification provides a longer and significantly stronger deck anchorage.
As shown in the final photograph, the extension is barely noticeable and results in a very secure attachment.
Important Note Regarding the Ladder Brackets
When trimming the ladder support brackets to their final length, ensure that they are long enough to be properly inserted into the pilothouse wall.
😎
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GaryLC
zooma
hermank
Mike Stoney
AlessandroSPQR
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💬 Re: Port Area
12 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 32 Views · 5 Likes
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Mike,
That picture of the harbour sitting in those crystal-clear waters is absolutely superb.
It must be a real pleasure to navigate a model with precision and care around such beautifully realistic structures — that setting truly does them justice.
If I lived in Switzerland, I’d be immensely proud to build a lighthouse for that harbour… it would feel almost like a duty to the scenery! 🇨🇭⚓
😎
That picture of the harbour sitting in those crystal-clear waters is absolutely superb.
It must be a real pleasure to navigate a model with precision and care around such beautifully realistic structures — that setting truly does them justice.
If I lived in Switzerland, I’d be immensely proud to build a lighthouse for that harbour… it would feel almost like a duty to the scenery! 🇨🇭⚓
😎
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AlessandroSPQR
RodC
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Mike Stoney
Ronald
📝 JUANITA STERN WHEELER
12 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 47 Views · 4 Likes · 1 Comment
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Maybe I do a cup holder also. 😜
😎
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Mike Stoney
hermank
DWBrinkman
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📝 JUANITA STERN WHEELER
12 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 47 Views · 7 Likes · 3 Comments
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LITTLE WHITE AND RED CHAIR
I’m almost finished completing all the loose deck and sundeck fittings.
One small detail that caught my attention on the real Juanita was a little white and red chair positioned in front of the main structure.
Naturally, I had to build one.
What I did not anticipate was that it would take an entire week—and several failed attempts consigned to the scrap bin—before I finally worked out the correct sequence for soldering such a tiny chair.
The process required the use of multiple custom balsa jigs to maintain alignment and consistency during soldering. At this scale, alignment, heat control, and the order of assembly are absolutely critical.
The slightest excess of solder or even minimal movement during heating becomes immediately apparent.
My first attempt at painting was done with a brush, but it left very noticeable brush marks that were unacceptable at this scale.
I ended up stripping the paint completely and refinishing the chairs using an airbrush.
For the red detailing, careful masking was required—and yes, I had to use my jeweller’s glasses to see what I was doing. The final outcome, however, was well worth the extra effort.
In many ways, it became a true shokunin experience — a lesson in patience, repetition, and craftsmanship, where improvement only comes through persistence and attention to the smallest details.
Below is the photo sequence showing how I successfully soldered a 3/4" high chair using 1/16" brass rod.
Hopefully, this sequence may help anyone attempting similar miniature brass fabrications.
😎
I’m almost finished completing all the loose deck and sundeck fittings.
One small detail that caught my attention on the real Juanita was a little white and red chair positioned in front of the main structure.
Naturally, I had to build one.
What I did not anticipate was that it would take an entire week—and several failed attempts consigned to the scrap bin—before I finally worked out the correct sequence for soldering such a tiny chair.
The process required the use of multiple custom balsa jigs to maintain alignment and consistency during soldering. At this scale, alignment, heat control, and the order of assembly are absolutely critical.
The slightest excess of solder or even minimal movement during heating becomes immediately apparent.
My first attempt at painting was done with a brush, but it left very noticeable brush marks that were unacceptable at this scale.
I ended up stripping the paint completely and refinishing the chairs using an airbrush.
For the red detailing, careful masking was required—and yes, I had to use my jeweller’s glasses to see what I was doing. The final outcome, however, was well worth the extra effort.
In many ways, it became a true shokunin experience — a lesson in patience, repetition, and craftsmanship, where improvement only comes through persistence and attention to the smallest details.
Below is the photo sequence showing how I successfully soldered a 3/4" high chair using 1/16" brass rod.
Hopefully, this sequence may help anyone attempting similar miniature brass fabrications.
😎
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Chum444
GaryLC
zooma
Mike Stoney
hermank
DWBrinkman
pressonreguardless
📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
12 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 18 Views · 4 Likes
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Wolle,
That sounds like quite a project! The Wotan may be a “small restoration” in your words, but that’s a big model to bring back to life. 😄
Please keep us informed throughout the restoration … I’d really enjoy seeing the progress and all the details along the way.
Looking forward to it!
😎
That sounds like quite a project! The Wotan may be a “small restoration” in your words, but that’s a big model to bring back to life. 😄
Please keep us informed throughout the restoration … I’d really enjoy seeing the progress and all the details along the way.
Looking forward to it!
😎
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Mike Stoney
hermank
Wolle
DWBrinkman
📝 Model exhibition in Goes NL
12 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 37 Views · 4 Likes
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Hermank,
Great show — absolutely brilliant.
Many thanks for sharing the videos and photos from the R/C event.
It’s much appreciated.
For those of us who couldn’t be there, it’s the next best thing.
😎
Great show — absolutely brilliant.
Many thanks for sharing the videos and photos from the R/C event.
It’s much appreciated.
For those of us who couldn’t be there, it’s the next best thing.
😎
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hermank
Mike Stoney
DWBrinkman
AlessandroSPQR
📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
12 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 27 Views · 7 Likes
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Of course Ronald:
Here it is.
😎
Here it is.
😎
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jumpugly
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AlessandroSPQR
hermank
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💬 Re: 1930 Runnabout Build Update
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 20 Views · 2 Likes
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Presson,
With that much epoxy on her, she’s going to be so shiny you’ll need sunglasses just to look at her.
That’s going to be one slick lady when she hits the water!
😎
With that much epoxy on her, she’s going to be so shiny you’ll need sunglasses just to look at her.
That’s going to be one slick lady when she hits the water!
😎
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hermank
pressonreguardless
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📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 40 Views · 6 Likes
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This painting and the congas took me two years to finish and frame — clearly proof that I can’t sit still for long. I always have to be tinkering with something… keeps me out of trouble, or so I’m told.
😎
😎
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📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 39 Views · 3 Likes
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Mike:
On the other hand, which particular model have you tucked away in the cupboard that you’d most like to build?
☹️
On the other hand, which particular model have you tucked away in the cupboard that you’d most like to build?
☹️
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jumpugly
Mike Stoney
hermank
📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
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Mike:
You sound remarkably like my wife 😂 — she refers to my models as “the other wife.”
Like yourself and many of the chaps here, I was bitten by the modelling bug at the age of 11… and really, why should one stop now? I dare say when they finally bury me, I shall have an X-Acto in my hands.
😎
You sound remarkably like my wife 😂 — she refers to my models as “the other wife.”
Like yourself and many of the chaps here, I was bitten by the modelling bug at the age of 11… and really, why should one stop now? I dare say when they finally bury me, I shall have an X-Acto in my hands.
😎
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📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
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Hey Presson
I’ve got the Ulysses sitting on my “to-do” list too — gorgeous tug. Since I’ve never built an R/C fishing boat before, this out-of-production beauty practically jumped out at me and whispered, “Build me…” So now I guess I don’t have a choice — resistance is futile.
😎
I’ve got the Ulysses sitting on my “to-do” list too — gorgeous tug. Since I’ve never built an R/C fishing boat before, this out-of-production beauty practically jumped out at me and whispered, “Build me…” So now I guess I don’t have a choice — resistance is futile.
😎
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📝 OUR NEXT PROJECTS
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
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Looking around, I’ve noticed that most of us have several kits waiting patiently in our closets. But I’m sure many of us also have that one special model we’re eager to start once the current project on the bench is finished.
For me, that next project will be the Aeropiccola Susanna II, scale 1:34.
Like many of our members, I hunted this out-of-production kit on eBay for months before finally securing this one for $150.00.
The kit was produced by Aeropiccola, a historic Italian model manufacturer based in Turin (Torino), Italy.
The company was especially known for its wooden ship kits, which were marketed worldwide during the mid-to-late 20th century. Although no longer active, Aeropiccola is still remembered fondly for its “Made in Italy” craftsmanship and the nostalgia associated with its kits.
Aeropiccola ceased regular operations in the early 1990s. Its founder, Domenico Conte, passed away in 1990, and the family continued the business only briefly before closing the company.
This one has been on my wish list for quite some time.
Show me yours.
😎
For me, that next project will be the Aeropiccola Susanna II, scale 1:34.
Like many of our members, I hunted this out-of-production kit on eBay for months before finally securing this one for $150.00.
The kit was produced by Aeropiccola, a historic Italian model manufacturer based in Turin (Torino), Italy.
The company was especially known for its wooden ship kits, which were marketed worldwide during the mid-to-late 20th century. Although no longer active, Aeropiccola is still remembered fondly for its “Made in Italy” craftsmanship and the nostalgia associated with its kits.
Aeropiccola ceased regular operations in the early 1990s. Its founder, Domenico Conte, passed away in 1990, and the family continued the business only briefly before closing the company.
This one has been on my wish list for quite some time.
Show me yours.
😎
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📝 decals
14 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 42 Views · 6 Likes
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Billj,
You should create your design in AutoCAD before printing your decals. This makes it much easier to control scale, proportions, and alignment.
How about customizing or making your own original decals?
These are the products I use to make my decals.
1. Before using the decal paper, always run a test print on regular paper to check size, alignment, and any adjustments until you’re satisfied.
2. Once everything looks right, print the final version on the decal paper.
3. After printing, apply three to four light coats of Krylon Crystal Clear, allowing adequate drying time between coats.
This seals the ink and prevents it from running when the decal is applied.
😎
You should create your design in AutoCAD before printing your decals. This makes it much easier to control scale, proportions, and alignment.
How about customizing or making your own original decals?
These are the products I use to make my decals.
1. Before using the decal paper, always run a test print on regular paper to check size, alignment, and any adjustments until you’re satisfied.
2. Once everything looks right, print the final version on the decal paper.
3. After printing, apply three to four light coats of Krylon Crystal Clear, allowing adequate drying time between coats.
This seals the ink and prevents it from running when the decal is applied.
😎
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💬 Re: Classic Model Power Boats
15 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 47 Views · 1 Like
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Thank You Zoma.
Understood.
😎
Understood.
😎
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hermank
📝 RESTORING MODELS
15 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 24 Views · 4 Likes
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Trev The Gatling gun parts were supplied by Model Expo.
Here is a link:
Here is a link:
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📝 How to secure acccess deck covers /hatches
15 days ago by 🇺🇸 chugalone100 ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 78 Views · 1 Like
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Zooma:
I used magnets on my fireboat too, but my hatch was made from a piece of galvanized sheet. What material did you use for yours?
😎
I used magnets on my fireboat too, but my hatch was made from a piece of galvanized sheet. What material did you use for yours?
😎
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