Good job Ed. I always use red oxide when a red hull is required.
For those of you lucky enough to have access to a Halfords car accessory store, I find their shake and rattle tins easy to use. The paint is very forgiving with a quick drying time and the gloss gives quite a good finish when polished up with a wax car polish

Nice one Ed.Love the weathering on the wheelhouse door!
Steve

Dear redpmg
Yes, I find the fumes from glooper sue quite irritating and it does stiffen the joint as you say. I did try water resistant pva in my initial experimentations, but it did not dry quickly enough for my patience.
I do find pva extremely useful for rivet heads and the like, once again using a cocktail stick to apply and painting the appropriate colour when dry.
Please don't apologise for teaching grandma again - all tips and tricks gratefully received!
Steve

Thanks Pete, you are quite right!
I have built a 1/200 scale model of HMS Hood and only dare take her out on Very Special occasions.

I was hoping to use them as signal halyards and secure them to the flying bridge with the row of belaying pins.
Problem is, the flying bridge is attached (not permanently yet), to the centre sub deck, which is removable to access the hull. The mast is permanently attached to the foredeck and the hull. That means I need some way of quick releasing the halyards.
Best put my thinking cap on.
Ps. If you will go for designer label anoraks, what do you expect?

Thanks Doug. Lot of info to go on there, even if it does blow my cross tree theory out of the water. I think I'll stick to my method of ratlines and 'blooper sue' and leave the half hitches to the experts.
Keep listening to your anorak - I'm told trainspotting may help.
Cheers
Steve

Please forgive me if I am starting to sound like an 'anorak', but the more this build goes on the more excited I get!
Having resolved (excuse the pun) the problem with the oversized dowel, I have now (almost) completed both masts.
The tapering of the upper parts was a bit hit and miss but the id's of the various mast rings was a good guide. Once again, there was a lot of white metal, but I was able to file most of it down to get a reasonable finish.
The rigging diagrams were okay, but it would have been most helpful if the lengths of thread could have been indicated on the plan, particularly where things like double blocks were used. I have ended up ordering more thread to be on the safe side. However, it was good to be able to use the blocks and belaying pins in the way in which they were intended!
During my many visits to youtube and other build blogs of Resolve, I found a noticeable lack of cross trees on the foremasts. I had almost decided not to go ahead with the crosstrees when I realised that all the other boats were built as civilian vessels. They had not the same requirements for signal halyards and flags as my RN version? (RNinMunich - what do you think Doug?)
There are a total of eight lamps on both masts , which I intend to electrify and will be including in a separate block for lighting.
There are ratlines on both masts which I thought would be quite easy to make. The plan says to fix the ratlines to the shrouds using clove hitch knots. As the ratlines are no thicker than cotton thread, no messing with knots fo me, I would use superglue! The vertical shrouds would be laid on A4 lined paper and the lines would indicate where to glue the ratlines. When finished any surplus glue and paper would be tweezered off leaving a perfect finished item. What a load of b******s ! Glue and surplus paper everywhere - in the bin!
I built a wooden frame on top of A4 lined paper and being careful to keep the shrouds and ratlines away from the frame and paper ended up with a reasonable result. I propose to source some 'climbing' figures to attract the eye to them and not the ratlines.

Thanks Pete. Despite the frustrations, it really is a most satisfying build. Yes, the kit is expensive, but it is very comprehensive and if you have any problems with duff parts etc., Jotika are only too pleased to help.
I have found this video very helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSg3opDAszo

Steve

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSg3opDAszo

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Many more (mostly) happy hours in the boat shed and the build still goes well, but with plenty more to do.
I have almost finished the flying bridge, which previously gave much trouble with the cladding. However, with most of the fittings, including racks of belaying pins and other detail, it looks ok, though I'm still picking the superglue from my fingers.
I loved building and fitting out the workbench on the after deck, which contains a vice and a number of spanners.
The large cowl vents are made up of white metal and dowel. Frustratingly, the dowel needed much fettling to fit the white metal base and cowl. I completed the task satisfactorily, but it took a long time.
I have made a start on the foremast, as you can see, the basis of which is dowel and plastic (referred to as alloy in the plans)tube. However, another frustration was that however much fettling I did I was unable to fit the dowel into the tube.
A visit to Jotika found that the dowel was 0.5mm oversize. John replaced it without problem, but I was a somewhat disappointed that I had to make the trip.
It seems that the main jobs remaining are the foremast to complete, the aft mast to construct and the funnels to build, fit and rig.
Ps. The figure you can see is one of the 3D printed ones, but only partly painted - more detail to follow.

An update - the maker, Luis, has a facebook page, which he has invited me to view, where he is "printing figures in resin on my own for Customers at a high quality and much better prices."
https://www.facebook.com/HOLDEN8702

May be of use to you.

Steve

https://www.facebook.com/HOLDEN8702

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Thanks for the tip Doug.
Just received 10 figures, purchased from the link you sent, working out about £6 each, which includes shipping and handling.
The detail and quality is very good, though the photos don't do them justice.
Very pleased.

Steve

Thanks Doug. I've just looked at the link and there is certainly plenty of choice. Just compared the cost with Deans [£6.29 each] and a set of five at Shapeways [£24.13]. Got to be good.

Cheers

Steve👍

Hi Bill
These seem to be just what I'm looking for so if you could find out where they came from, that would be great.
Also, I will take you up on your kind offer of the figure and will pm you with my address.
Thank you and a happy new year.

Steve

Thanks for all the info chaps, I should be able to sort some figures out now.
As you say, Doug, there always seems to be a dearth of RN crew, whatever the scale.
Thank you
Steve

My latest build is a 1/48th scale tug, Resolve.
I am building the naval version and am looking for appropriate figures to crew the vessel.
I can't source any at the moment.
Can anyone help please?
Steve

I have decided not to fit the working anchor winch. Having been unable to resolve the 'friction' problem, I suddenly realised that as the hawse hole is so close to the waterline, I would lose the effect in any case. Ah, hindsight!
However, construction progresses with the engine room, steering room and towing gear. Once again, I love the attention to detail, as you can see from the stern steam winch, and engine room telegraph and muzzle loaders on the centre deck.
The inside of the wheelhouse, which will only be visible if the flying bridge is removable, is also full of detail. (Yes, I know the binnacle needs tidying up and Kelvin's Balls need painting in the appropriate colours).
The flying bridge is still under construction, but the lack of a diagram has made the fitting of the cladding difficult, with trialling which bit goes where and which edges to glue to which ends. According to the instructions, the cladding is on a 'screen printed' sheet, which is no longer screen printed but laser etched, I am told by Jotika.
It is also very frustrating when the paper plan, giving part numbers, bears no resemblance to the layout of the sheet itself. (Another item to add to my 'snagging' list for Jotika). Much sanding and filling needs to take place, before the item is worthy of a photograph. I have found that you need to read the instructions three or four times and still be prepared to make mistakes!
However, I am still excited with the build and I am looking forward to more progress now that my Christmas ban of entering the boat shed has been lifted!

If you would like to go to a lovely island with lovely people and lovely weather, then, despite the 12 hour flight, Mauritius is the place! The view from our hotel room should give you some idea.
Back to business. Having further investigated a working anchor winch, I pushed the boat out and spent £60 on a Krick kit. It comes as a flat pack, is easy to assemble and as you can see, it works!(see YouTube link). However, whilst I can successfully raise the anchors when the winch is in situ below decks, I have yet to overcome the friction to 'drop anchor'. This is work in progress, but I have every confidence. Can someone please remind me to do this Before I glue the foredeck in position next time?
I love the fine detail in the kit (including the scale lumps of coal) and I am currently in the process of making bottlescrews. The before and after pictures show the scale and what's involved and I have 24 to make. I found that a magnifier viewer is a great help.
As you can see, the foredeck is taking shape and I am now satisfied with the rail around the 12pdr. However, the instructions are still frustrating, with the 'bulwark stay bases' not being numbered, but identified in the parts list as 'stanchions' and numbered 255.
I have also learnt another nautical name, 'chain sheaves', an integral part of the steering gear. Having identified the component parts from the pack number, they were easy to assemble, though part number 113, which turned out to be a cowl vent base, was thrown in to the list to further confuse and frustrate.
Having said all that, that parts and fittings are of good quality and I am looking forward to making more progress (wife permitting!)

Krick Anchor Winch

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Thanks Peter and Doug.
I did mention that the instructions said to thread the wire through the stanchions when they had been fixed in place. This required pushing the wire as well as pulling, and it got more difficult the more stanchions that were 'wired', causing the kinks.
My suggestion that the stanchions were 'wired' before fixing in place was in hindsight. I may well remove them and start again.
Hope this makes sense.
Steve

Thanks Martin. The manufacturer, Jotika, is just up the road and I visit quite often for bits and pieces. I have already mentioned the part numbering issues and he, John, has asked for a list when I have worked may way through, to rectify the problem.
Steve

Having suddenly remembered that my wife is dragging me off for two weeks in Mauritius next Tuesday, I thought I had better update things.
Construction of the windlass was very satisfying so I thought I would jump the gun (sorry!) and build the 12 pounder.
Another annoying incorrect part number for the gun platform (399 read 361), but the remainder of the mini build went OK. The suggested use of scrap 0.8mm ply as a spacer ensured parallel planking on the gun deck platform and again, the white metal parts required very little fettling.
Instructions say to fix the stanchions in place, then thread the 0.2mm railing wire. I think it would be easier to thread the wire onto the stanchions and then glue them into place. I also found that the vague instruction to leave a gap in the railings on the 'left rear side' for the ladder, required fine tuning to avoid the bottom of the ladder coming up against a cowl vent. Shouldn't have jumped the gun!
Next job was to glue the ply capping rails around the top of the hull. I used superglue which gave a quick fix, together with the usual stuck fingers. However, once sanded and painted the end result was very pleasing.
Supplied are sheets of 'screen printed' deck overlays, which are detailed with planking etc. Instructions say that these decks can be lightly stained, which I initially decided to do. Not a good move! Even a light staining masks a lot of detail. Luckily, I only messed up the foredeck, so a trip to Jotika for a replacement. A chat with John (Jotika) resulted in leaving the decks unstained, which will later be clear lacquered. It seems that the decks were originally screen printed giving much 'heavier' detail which would take a stain. However, the current decks are laser etched so the planking isn't as heavily defined. (More about that later).
Ok, I have been ordered to start packing my case, so more in a few weeks.

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I have three of these units and find the sounds excellent. The added advantage is being able to sync gun flashes with the respective sounds and add whatever you want in wav. format.
Downside is the software is ancient and long winded and will not work on a Mac.
I would still highly recommend it.

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With the hull fitted out I decided that a few coats of paint was in order.
For some reason the plan recommends (Humbrol) colour 127, which is 'US' ghost grey. I refuse to use an American colour on a Royal Navy boat, so I have chosen RN Admiralty medium grey 507B, by Lifecolor.
I have used Lifecolor in the past and find it gives an excellent finish with no brush marks. Below the waterline, the good old favourite Halfords red primer in the 'shake and rattle' tin. I plan to mark the waterline with a boot stripe so "you can't see the join".
Having promised to be able to control the anchors I thought I had better investigate the practicalities before going any further with the build.
Why not spend half an hour or so making the anchor windlass as a start? I found this to be a model in itself, which took a couple of days! Very satisfying though.
First, read the instructions. Then assemble the 35 or so parts on the bench, then read the instructions again.
The white metal fittings took some fettling, as usual, but the mouldings were much better than most I have come across. (Jotika tell me that they are tooling up to 3D print the fittings in the future.)
The written instructions missed a few part numbers, but this was compensated for with a full page exploded plan view and a full page drawing of the completed item.
I found it better to dry fit as much as possible to ensure all the bits lined up and the cogs meshed. Once happy, I used superglue.
The pictures show the windlass in the raw, but I'm sure it will look much better with a careful paint job.
When I said "read the instructions again", this was in hindsight, as I am sure you rivet counters will spot my mistake in the completed build. However, if, like me you use the two foot rule, my error in construction should go unnoticed.🤞

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Hi Peter. If I remember correctly, Ron Dean didn't supply enough, or enough brass railing, so I had to ring up for some more (before the days of the internet!).
That was 30 or so years ago, just after he had started, but I don't think he has got much better. I steer clear of him now.
You might have a look here
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-White-ABS-Plastic-Rod-Round-So...

Steve

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-White-ABS-Plastic-Rod-Round-Solid-Bar-DIY-Model-Material-250mmx1-2-3-4-5-6mm/183938969282?_

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The rigoles came as complete portholes in the white metal fittings.
However, many years ago I built one of Deans Marine kits, HMS Verulam, a 1/96 scale destroyer. Included in the kit were lengths of thin plastic sprue with the instruction to wind the sprue tightly around a pencil. Remove the resulting 'sprue coil' from the pencil and cut it lengthways with a small pair of scissors.
The semi circular pieces created by the cutting made quite acceptable rigoles.
Steve

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Now for the good bits! This is part of a build which I really enjoy, when the boat starts to take shape. With 750 white metal parts there should be plenty of detail.
With the main sub decks in place, I fitted the bulkhead facias, together with the extended bulkhead. The parts are pre cut to take the white metal portholes and watertight doors, which I glued in with superglue. The holes needed enlarging to allow the portholes to fit correctly. (Irritating).
Using the screen printed sub foredeck overlay as a guide, I drew around the curve to give the position of the breakwater. The breakwater is made of ply and to achieve the curve, I soaked it in water for 10 minutes which made it supple enough to follow the line I had drawn. To get a quick and secure fix I used superglue.
Cutting the gaps in the forecastle bulkhead down to deck level was straightforward, but if you use a dremel cutting disc, don't get over enthusiastic and cut into things you shouldn't!
The last bit of this section is fitting the portholes, ash shute doors, hawse lips and and mooring port lips. All these are white metal and the hole centres are marked on the hull. Having used a small drill to start the holes off, I enlarge them with a reamer to prevent the gel coat cracking.
The portholes on the hull have rigoles (eyebrows) and when I have fitted these in the past, I have always got some of them on the scunt (aka crooked). Having taken great care to get the first one correctly orientated, I drew a line through the rest of the holes, which helped aligning the remainder.
I found that the hole centre for the hawse lip was close to the waterline and to maintain the correct distance I had to enlarge the hole upwards (if that makes sense).
The fitting of the mooring port lips was straightforward and for extra detail they are both inside and outside.

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The problem is, once I start a build I get obsessed and spend much too much time in the workshop (according to my wife!).
The build and the blog have now 'caught up', so there will be more photos.

The fore sub-deck is glued onto the bulkhead assembly, prior to fixing it into the hull. This is a straightforward operation, but some sanding of the sub deck is needed, particularly around the bow. With short strips of square balsa glued onto the hull sides between the deck beams, to support the edges of the foredeck, the whole unit was again dry fitted.
Happy with the dry fit and armed with various clamps and clothes pegs, I glued the assembly into place. (Once again, apologies for the lack of photos as I did this before deciding on doing the blog).
Before fitting the aft sub-deck, I cut out an opening to get to the tiller if necessary. The opening will be disguised later in the build.

Sea Trials.
I decided on lead acid batteries, as the weight would go a long way towards ballasting - she sits very low in the water. Jotika advised 60mm 4 bladed props, which were duly fitted.
As I have already said, I use a Taranis radio and this has the advantage of being able to set up a differential drive between the motors and rudder in the transmitter. As you can see on the video, she turns in her own length.
You will also see from the video the 'deck cargo', or cardboard box full of the white metal fittings. This gave me a better idea of how much more ballast I would require for the finished model.
I did have a scary moment when the 'deck cargo' shifted and she took on an alarming list to port! I thought I would be a contender for the 'Titanic Award', presented annually by our club for the best sinking. However, with nerves of steel, I navigated her safely back to the slipway.
I was most pleased with the way she handled and moved through the water. The motors and props supply more than enough power and she will require very little more ballasting.

HMT Resolve Sea Trials

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Hi Martin
I am an Apple user and I open photos with an inbuilt bit of software called Preview. The magnifier is one of the included editing tools. I only discovered it the other day!

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And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings.
Having removed deck camber beams, mid deck bulkheads and longitudinal stringers from the CNC sheets, I glued the assembly together and taped it to a flat surface to dry, as per the instructions. However, as you can see from the two magnified sections in picture 1, the deck camber beams and stringers are not flush. I only became aware of this after glueing the assembly into the hull and trying to dry fit the aft deck.
Once again, the trusty Dremel with cutting disc attached came into its own and I managed to rectify the problem - not without difficulty.
Before glueing the bulkhead assembly into place I fitted the motors. As I have already mentioned, with the propshafts parallel to the hull, there is very little clearance for the motors. However, with the offset shafts on the 2.5:1 540 geared motors, this was not a problem.
I used vac formed plastic 'cradle' motor mounts and standard universal couplings.
I am now a great believer in using proprietary silicone sealant to fix the motors onto the mounts. This not only cushions vibration but allows tweaking of the final line up, which I do by eye. Before the sealant sets, I run the motors and further tweak to get as little vibration as possible. See pic 4.
With motors in place it was time to fix the bulkhead assembly into the hull. Instructions suggest using slow cure epoxy, but I used Gorilla glue, which does the job just as well, without the trouble of mixing. Included in the bulkhead assembly is the servo tray for the rudder and with that connected and the power plant -two 12v 7ah lead acid batteries - in place, sea trials were fast approaching.

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Hi Peter
I only used the P40 for holding the prop tubes in the hull, as I was informed that the glass strands in it would give a more secure fix. No sanding required and I don't think the texture would lend itself to that.
I still use the P38 for filling.
Steve