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I am completing a Pilot boat which has been built from plans by Vic Smeed. The plans indicate scale as 3/4 inch - 1ft The boat is 34 and a half inches long. As I am a mathematical no hoper, can anyone help with the scale e.g. 1/25th Thank you. Steve
This is a re-issue of my previous post as the link to the video failed. It shows a Sunday morning's sailing at WMBC through the 'eyes' of my 46inch Perkasa. Details of the Club can be found here: https://www.worcestermodelboat club.co.uk/
Hi Dave I am using Mtronics Viper Marine 20s- (I did order 15s but Howes sent these by mistake). I am using 3cell 30-40c 5000mah in the Perkasa - batteries are overkill I suspect? A 7.4 2 cell lipo seems a good bet then? Steve
Hi Dave. Motors installed and running smoothly with double couplings as you suggested. Thank you. Called in at Jotika for some bits and spoke to John about my fear of piercing the hull. He suggested I use silicone to fix the motors to the mounts as he uses it for things such as flexible drives on his big powerboats. That's what I've used and it seems to work. I am using 4 -15v 540 brushed motors. Being sold on lipos, what batteries do you suggest I use? I'm not looking for high speed. Steve
Thanks Dave M. Not a fair representation of boats, just those that happened to be there at the time. We have plenty of scale boats, including an RAF Crash Tender and warships from the South African Navy. You are more than welcome to visit our website gallery on the link below. Dave W, yes we welcome new members! We are a new club, still developing our sailing HQ. It's not County Hall as that has been closed for some considerable time due to an outbreak of blue/green algae bloom. If you follow the link to our website you will see what we are about and get an application form on line in the Contact Us section. https://www.worcestermodelboat club.co.uk/ Look forward to hearing from you Steve
My latest project is the completion of 'Pilot II', built from plans by Vic Smeed. (Not sure of the vintage but the plans cost five shillings). (Picture 1) If I mount the motors using conventional u/v couplings I cannot secure them without making holes in the hull. (Picture 2) The only remedy I can see is to extend the coupling, therefore giving me enough gap between the hull and the mounts to secure them without damaging the hull. This would mean extending the couplings by approx 37mm (Pic 3). I am unable to use what appear to be the already built mounts as I cannot get the motors to that angle. I have never extended motor mounts so any advice would be welcome. Steve
Thank you for your compliments. This is in fact my second Perkasa. I built the first one about 40 years ago (see photo), before the introduction of the GRP hull. Losing interest in the hobby some years later, I sold the boat and have lived to regret it. (I was also the proud owner of a 37" Aerokits Crash Tender powered by a Frog 2.49cc diesel. That went the same way!) The first boat was quite lively powered by a Merco 61 i/c engine. No pictures of either I'm afraid. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Steve
I acquired this boat part built some months ago through Dave M. I have not put too much scale in detail but I am quite pleased with the overall finish. It is powered by two brushless 1250KV out runners and in the first sea trials I used 12v lead acid batteries. (That video was posted a few weeks ago - mdlbt.com/26793). This video shows its second sea trial after I was persuaded to use lipos. The difference in performance is very pleasing. Thank you Dave M for your help and advice during the build.
Morning Folks. Thank you for all the advice. The prop, as you can see, has eight blades which are at different levels on the spinner. Having no experience of moulding, my latest plan is two use the two props on the rear torpedos. Unless I can find suitable props for the front torpedos I leave them out altogether. I can also leave the two forward torpedo launchers empty. As Octman has suggested, I can always say that the props are not visible as they are spinnng up for launching. Bit of a cop out I know. Steve
I have managed to acquire two props (thanks Dave M), but I require two more for the other two torpedos. The suggested use of a 3D printer is also a non starter and trawling the internet has also drawn a blank. Any ideas where else I might try? Thank you Steve
Hi Dave Glad to hear you are up and running again. These virus things are not pleasant. Superb idea about the 3D printer. A model boater colleague of mine has access. I will let you know how I get on and I look forward to the new parts. Steve
Hi Ed. I was thinking of painting it, but how to do it with such small links? My first thought was thinned down acrylic and dipping it several times to try and get and even coat. What do you think? Steve PS. How is the tug and did you decide to build the Pilot Boat in the end? This is mine at a recent evening regatta https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=4pTQgjg8ZuY
Hi Glyn I got all my running gear from Howes Models which is where I bought the kit. It was on their recommendation and I got 540 brushed motors, three bladed brass props and Mtroniks Viper marine ESCs. This gives me what I consider to be a good scale speed. For gap filling I use Milliput and for small cracks, decorators caulk. Cheers. Steve
Hi Glyn An excellent choice if I may say so. I am very pleased with mine, particularly at this time of year with all the onboard lighting. The most difficult part of my build was skinning the hull. Although the plastic sheet is flexible it requires bending in two planes to accommodate the curvature. The skins are held in place with tape then glued to the bulkheads on the inside. My mistake(s) were failing to take enough time positioning the skins, particularly fore and aft, not using enough tape and using too much glue. The chemical reaction created by the glue, caused the plastic to heat up and shrink resulting in the bulkheads showing through - see pic 1. Initially this caused me some concern but when I had finished the build I was pleased with the overall result - pic 2. Best of luck. Steve