Thanks Doug. I have me Bearding Line and Butt Shift System to contend with next, but the more I do the easier it becomes.
Steve.

No, just soaked them for about an hour. They become very flexible, but I'm now pretty certain that the problem around the bow is my own fault for not tapering them soon enough after the first planks.
I've just put two more on since writing, paying more attention to the taper, and they seem to be laying better.

I thought the first planking would be a tester for me and I was right. My main problem is getting the planks around the bow to stick flat to the bulkheads as you can see from the photo. However, having seen first planking on other blogs, before and after fettling, I feel I am not doing too badly.
On the premise that bits can be glued in and then sanded back and the very comforting comment by Nonsuch, that this is only a dress rehearsal for the second planking, I am feeling quietly confident.
I decided to follow the kit instructions and plank from top to bottom. Soaking in warm water aids bending and when tapering the knife blade is less likely to follow the grain of the wood.

As I am writing this log, I have the hull next to me and I think I have found why the planks are not lying flat on the bulkheads.
I did not start tapering the first planks soon enough! I am sure you experienced builders will put me right. Once again, a lesson learned for the second planking perhaps?

I am only fixing two planks per day at the moment, one port and one starboard. This allows me to use modified foldback clips and only brass tack at the bow and stern.Yes, it will take time, but I'm in no rush.
In the meantime I have started to build some of the deck fittings.

Next instalment on completion of first planking, which will hopefully be 'alright on the night'.

Thanks Martin. I have already picked this one up and found it to be of great assistance.
I am making steady progress but have already learned two valuable lessons.
1. Despite the fact that the parts appear to have been accurately cut, I need to take more time in preparation and dry fitting before applying the glue. This became apparent when I decided to glue the false deck onto the bulkheads. I should have sanded the knees on the bulkheads and the slots in the false deck more accurately.
2. The equivalent of 'measure twice, cut once'. I am embarrassed to admit, but I attempted to fit the first gunport bulwark the wrong way round, i.e. the front bit at the back and the back bit at the front !
This involved bevelling and cutting the wrong end to the 'correct' angle to fit at the bow. Luckily I noticed my mistake before glueing and only had to fit a small wedge into the back end where the bulwark joins the transom..
I put this bo**ock down to my age (again)!

The next job on the build was to bevel the bulkheads to allow the planks to fit flat on them. Quite a time consuming task. I found that moving a plank down the bulkheads and sanding or filing each one and moving down about an inch at a time was the best way.
I then needed to bend and fit the gunport bulwarks.
Having researched various methods of bending the wood, I decided to follow the instructions which suggested soaking in warm water for an hour or so. Having done this I dry fitted and clamped them to the bulkheads, leaving overnight. (picture 3)
This worked very satisfactorily (picture 1) and they are now glued in place, including the wedge mentioned above! (picture 2).
I have dry fitted the pre-formed bulwark capping strips and I seem to have got the shape and curve of the bulwarks pretty well.

Next job is the first planking of the hull, so if I haven't bored you too much with my ramblings, please stay tuned.

I soaked these gunport bulkheads in warm water for about half an hour (as recommended in the instructions), then dry fitted them overnight with clamps. Seemed to work pretty well.
I've just glued and tacked the starboard side in place.

Having been thoroughly disappointed, almost disgusted, with the overpriced Deans Marine warship kits (of which I have built two), I decided upon a change of tack.
I have already built Caldercraft's tug, Resolve, and impressed with the quality of the kit and the opportunity to learn new skills, I decided to have a go at a plank on bulkhead model.
I chose Cruiser because she is aimed at beginner/intermediate and also, to me, pleasing to the eye.
Once again, the kit is made up of very good quality materials, with all the wooden structure parts CNC cut, the wooden fittings nicely detailed and the cannons made of turned brass.
The instruction manual is adequate, but there are seven sheets of full sized plans.
I am in the process of building the basic hull, the easy bit. The wooden parts have been accurately cut and require very little fettling.
However, the first skill I have to practice is bevelling, the stern bulkhead to enable the deck to fit flush, but mainly the bulkheads to enable the planks to fit flush.
My main concern was, and still is, planking the hull. M B Website member Nonsuch has been of great help with this and plank bending, but more of that later.
So far , so good.

http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Nelson_2.htm

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Sounds like a good plan. I will go for the dress rehearsal then.

I was thinking of something like this
https://www.mantuamodel.co.uk/products/ship-fittings/lifeboa...
The price won't break the bank, what do you think?

https://www.mantuamodel.co.uk/products/ship-fittings/lifeboats/858/life-boat-detail

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Ah, yes. I had looked them up, but couldn't quite work out the relevance to planking. I will treat myself to a pair and all will become clear when I start to use them!
Thanks for the pic. A good idea to try something smaller first perhaps. I take it they are both from kits?

Thank you, I have a copy of Harold's book on order!
You mention the use of 'proportional' dividers. I have ordinary dividers - would they serve as well?
Also, you forgot to attach the pic.

Thank you Nonsuch, for the very helpful advice. It is also suggested that if the wood is wet, the knife is less likely to follow the grain when tapering the plank?
Can you tell me how you fix the second planks? Jotika recommend using medium super glue, being very aware of the drying time. The alternative is using pins but then you have the holes to contend with.

If my planking comes anywhere close to yours I shall be well pleased!

Hadn't thought about it, but I did enjoy doing the one for Resolve, so I may well do. I'm just finishing a Deans RAF HSL (I will never part with my hard earned money to him again!).
Will be starting the new venture in the next few days.

For the last few years I have been happily building (mainly naval)RC boats.
Now is the time to learn new skills, so I have purchased HMS Cruiser from Jotika's (aka Caldercraft ) 'Nelson's Navy'.
http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Nelson_2.htm

One of the main jobs, of course, is to plank the hull.
Jotika does not advocate the use of plank benders, but instructs soaking the wood.

I would welcome your views and any experiences?

Thank you.
Steve

http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Nelson_2.htm

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Thanks for the tip Mike. I've just ordered the twine.
Steve

Thanks for trying Bill. I've just ordered the twine to do it myself per mturpin's suggestion.
Steve

Can you still get string vests?
In the 60's I lived near a teacher's training college in Worcester. One sunny day I happened to spot a young student wearing a string vest as a dress. Those were the days!

Hi Bill
Thank you. I calculate the squares to be about 10mm. The plan shows the piece to be 190mm long x 80mm to the waterline. One piece for each side of course.
Cheers
Steve

Construction of the Deans Air Sea Rescue Launch proceeds, despite the poor plans and drawings.
However, the net supplied with the kit (picture 3), would be great for fishing, but it's not really fit for purpose, and will not be used.
The net in picture 4 is much more realistic, but so far I have been unable to source any.
Worst case is that I weave my own, but I don't really want to do that.
Can anyone help please?
Thank you
Steve

Hi Will
It seems many people have, or had a Perkasa.
My first one I also built in the '80s - 49" plank on frame and shape the bow section from solid balsa blocks.
My mate was in an army Air Defence Battery and target practice was shooting at drones which were powered by the Merco 61 glow engine. He shot a drone down and managed to retrieve the motor on which we put a water jacket and mounted it in the Perkasa. It went like the proverbial!
I am now up to date with a power train of two brushless motors and lipos. It also makes a good platform for filming.

Steve

Sailing with Worcester Model Boat Club

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An excellent job on both the model and the sounds. Well done Ed!

Hope all is well with you all.

Steve

I did ask what the service/admin charge was for. I was told that, as every kit was made to order, it paid for the careful picking and packing. It didn't help them spot my defective hull.......

Ah, but now you know why. "It has to be made light for fast launches......?"

I would go for Caldercraft every time.
I have just bought a Deans Thorneycroft HSL 2661 (much against my better judgement) and had to have the hull replaced as the gel coat on the transom was crazed.
In the first instance Deans replied -
" not a problem at all, possibly it has been dropped hard in transit,
sand over the hull with fine wet and dry as in the normal cleaning off the wax on the hull a wipe with body filler when touching up the hull join.
The coat of primer with fill over the marks."
When I pointed out that the fibre glass was only 0.9mm in places they replied
" fairly standard thickness of a g/f hull, they have to be made light for fast launches it is not a problem at all, but if you wish we will change it for anther one ?
send it back to us in the box".
They did not offer to refund my postage.
On the other hand, I made the tug Resolve by Caldercraft. As has been pointed out, the main materials are fibreglass and wood. Attention to detail is superb, the fittings are all of very good quality and the finished model is excellent!

Thought I might have got the wrong end of the stick. Sorry about that.

Hi Chaps. Sorry to come into the discussion at this late stage, but I have been off grid for some time.
I can't seen any mention of flexible beech strip for the curve in the bow, but I'm sure someone must have thought of it?
I have used it successfully on two or three occasions and the curve is quite easy to achieve.
The curves in the attached images are not that acute but the wood is capable of more. A 10minute soak in cold water helps.
8mm strip of various thicknesses is available.
Sorry if I am stating the obvious.

Steve

Hi Folks
Having read many of your comments, can I try and put a positive note on 3D printing.

I knew nothing about it when I purchased an Ender 3 Pro just after Ed bought his. In that time I have successfully printed quite a few model boat fittings - Bofors, vents, lifeboats etc., from Thingyverse, using Cura software to slice and re-scale (if necessary).
I have also upgraded to a silent motherboard and a dual drive extruder, with great help from YouTube.
Like you Ed, my first purchase of filament kept breaking so I am now using this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/1-75mm-Black-PLA-Printer-Filament/d... with no breakages so far.
To date, touch wood, I have had no problems and have really enjoyed the experience.
Steve

Ps. Please don't take this as blowing my own trumpet, it's trying to encourage those who are thinking of going for it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/1-75mm-Black-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZ5ND8O/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2R66Y2NGX4NVB&dchild=1&keywords=pla+filament&qid=1602748696&s=industrial&sprefix=pla%2Cindustrial%2C146&sr=1-8,

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Hi Ed
Glad to hear that you are back up and running and printing again.

I have just upgraded my printer with this:-

Creality 3D® Upgraded Supersilent 24V Super Silent Mainboard Motherboard With TMC2208 Driver For Ender-3 / Ender-3 Pro 3D Printer - Ender-3
which I got from Bangood

Two of the main advantages are that it takes all the noise out of the stepper motors, and has a built in boot loader.
The boot loader means that I can easily upgrade the firmware .
It is a straight replacement with the existing motherboard and you will find plenty of help installing it on YouTube.

Cheers
Steve

Being an ex smoker, just love the pipe!
Superb filming too.
Well done indeed.

I tried soldering photo etched parts recently. Of course, I was immediately disadvantaged as it was part of a Dean's kit.
I ended up using super glue. Some sticky fingers but much better than my soldering attempts.
I've used super glue on several occasions and have always been successful.
Worth a try in the future Ed?

Steve

What can I say Ed. Makes up for all the breaking filament and the horrible smells.
Very well done!

Steve