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    DodgyGeezer
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    Member No.#1291
    RegisteredπŸ“…18th Dec 2010
    Last OnlineπŸ“…20th Apr 2019
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Seaplane tender
    14 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    It looks like the Adamcraft kit - minus the roof. Here is slightly closer picture of that kit...

    kit
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    πŸ“ Look for a simple balsa build
    16 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    "......the plan was off, which for my first build was a pain......"

    Sorry. Which one was it?
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    πŸ“ Look for a simple balsa build
    18 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Had to add another reply to add two websites...
    http://marinecraft.tk/mSPB.html
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    πŸ“ Look for a simple balsa build
    18 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    The obvious place is the EeZeBilt site, or perhaps the Marinecraft site. But I would say that, wouldn't I! Perhaps you have already used it - the earlier plans are less accurate than the later ones.

    Any particular type of boat, any specific size?
    http://eezebilt.tk/plans.html
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    18 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Ah well, grandmothers and eggs... 😌 Still, I did say that the collet was cheaper than 1 grubscrew - not 100...

    I found that mine worked first time, so you probably won't need the platform. You seem better equipped than I am for the rest of it πŸ˜‰

    I can, however, report that holding balsa sheet in this way is very effective. It is a sheet of ply bolted to the base, with another sheet of ply 4" wide on top. The sides have hard balsa edges rising about 1/4 inch above the ply, which are held in with a spruce strip. A 4" sheet of yellow correx is there to provide a soft base for under cutting. If I cut outside the workpiece the cutter just goes through the balsa sides, so no damage done.

    4" or 100mm sheets of balsa drop into the 1/8th recess on top, and are held by the side balsa, which is slightly sprung inwards. If necessary they can be packed around the edges, but the recess is sized to hold them tightly. They are firmly held against the cutter, do not move at all, and the workpiece can be removed and replaced precisely in the same position if necessary. If you want you can put a weight on top of the sheet during cutting to hold it perfectly flat, and move it when the cutter is going to go over it.

    sheets
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    20 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    ".......I am on a bitof a learning curve at the moment........"

    A few lessons I learned:

    1 - Get a good, solid base-board which isn't warped. The local timber yard may have off-cuts of 3/4" ply. You will want to assemble the mechanics on a proper base, and it helps to have it available first. You will want to paint it anyway, so it will need time to dry.

    2 - Get a dial indicator. An easy way to check for precision in assembly is to attach a dial indicator to the end of the Z axis and run it over the base board. It's good for other fault-finding and calibration as well. There are cheap ones on Ebay.

    3 - Plan out all the wiring. I put my limit switches in as an afterthought, and found that I had wires which couldn't go in the places I wanted them to go.

    4 - Wiring loom control. Consider Drag Chains, Heat-shrink tubing and Braiding. All items are very cheap from Ebay. If you don't put the wiring in at assembly you won't be able to put it in later once everything is connected up...

    5 - If you use a drag chain for the USB connection, you will either have to make sure that it's wide enough to take a USB plug passing through it, or cut the plug off, pass it through and re-solder it afterwards. If you do the latter, note that the shielding in a USB cable is aluminium, and won't solder. So you will need to use a connector plug which has a physical connection to the shielding, because interference can ba a problem on these machines....

    timber yard
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    20 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    "....Good cheap screw supplier...."

    I looked there for grub screws. There were 58 entries. Of the cheapest orders of these, only 12 were cheaper than the Chinese mini collet set. And not by much.

    Once you counted in postage, the cheapest grub screws you could get from a good, cheap supplier in the UK, at Β£3.20, were about twice the price of a complete mini-collet set from China, which comprised a shaft, locking head, selection of 8 different sized collets, two grub screws and an allen key....

    grub screws
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    23 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    "How is the cutting tool held in place? Do you use just a rigid coupler with grubscrews or a minature collet system?"

    A miniature collet system. Cheaper than one grub screw (if bought in this country!). Here is an ebay link to one for Β£1.28. You have to get one with the right hole size for your motor shaft, of course. There are several standard sizes. This one is 2.35mm ... Go to ebay and search for 'mini drill collet'. You can see a picture here...


    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8Pcs-0-5-3mm-Electric-Drill-Bit-C...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8Pcs-0-5-3mm-Electric-Drill-Bit-Collet-Mini-Twist-Drill-Tool-Chuck-Set-Golden-BE/332680957934?hash=item4d75548fee:g:vJ8AAOSwGUBaRQRg
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    23 hours ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Aluminium for stables? Perhaps a slab of oak would be more appropriate? I am cutting slices off old oak fence posts for use as coasters and think I can engrave them using the 'boat motor cutter' - so long as the cut is not deep.

    A laser would be ideal - but the cost and the danger mean that it needs a bit of thinking about.

    I must look up the Rumba and mega2560. One issue I have with the Uno and GRBL is that the software does not do 'tool radius compensation'. You have to do this in your conversion, and Dfx2Gcode does not do this either. I do not know if there is a GRBL version running on the 2650 which does do this. Essentially you need a GRBL which implements G41/2 commands, or you will have to do the compensation in your original drawing. I am using sub-milimeter cutting tools for balsa, so the compensation required is negligible and can be ignored, but when cutting ply I may need to worry about it.

    Your TMC2130s may not need endstops, but the limit switches are also used for homing. You will find that if you want to cut lots of parts out of a single sheet of material, it helps to be able to home accurately. GRBL allows you to have a 'master machine home' and then several subsidiary homes. So, when cutting, I start with the cutter in the master home position in the top right corner, then move it to a secondary home position which is directly over the workpiece top right, then do all of my cutting in relation to that secondary home position...

    boat motor cutter
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    πŸ“ Noodle Jet Boat
    1 day ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    "....There were plans for a noodle boat in a fairly recent model boats mag..."

    Several years ago I drafted up an EeZeBilt RIB. This used foam pipe insulation (ready-split!) for the inflatable section, had a standard brushless prop and used a servo hidden in a dummy outboard to swing the outboard for use as a rudder.

    I never completed the boat, and did not publish the plans, but if there is some interest I will look at revisiting the idea. Here are a few pics of what the boat was to look like:

    boat
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    1 day ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    You seem to be doing pretty much the same thing as I am! I picked an eShapeoko whose mechanical kits are a fair bit cheaper, which meant I could afford the longer rails initially, but apart from that we are pretty much identical! Oh, and I'm using a different breakout board...

    You will be adding limit switches? I find them essential for decent control, but also found it a bit tricky to get data on the best way to connect them to an Arduino. Does Ox provide an advised circuit and pinouts?

    I see you are using DesignSpark. I don't think this accepts .DXF files, which are the standard 2-D interchange format. It will output them, but not import, which seems crazy to me! Which is a shame, because I could send you any of the model boat plans on the EeZeBilt or Marinecraft sites as a .DXF...

    Most of the EeZebilts can be made on the cutting area you have, and all the Marinecraft. You don't need a powerful router to cut balsa - a model boat motor is sufficient, with a cheap Chinese cutter for a couple of quid. The great thing about that is that there is essentially no cutting noise, just the quiet hum of the motor.

    A 4" wide plank with balsa edges will hold a sheet nice and firmly. What materials are you thinking of cutting? I am experimenting with cutting ply, and find that old dental burrs (which I got free from my dentist!) will go through 1/8" deal like butter powered by a Graupner Speed 400.

    Arduino
    butter
    model boat motor
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    2 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    That's a later version of the Shapeoko, isn't it? Tell us more! Where did you get it? What are you using for the electrics - an Arduino and GRBL? How are you going to do workholding? What size cutting area do you have? And are you going to put G Code out for any of the parts you cut?

    Arduino
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    πŸ“ Plan Sources
    2 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    You must have done a lot of research to find that matching boat? Dedication!!

    boat
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    3 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    "....I want one😊....."

    Easy to obtain! In retrospect I bought one that was a little too wide for model boat use - it has a cutting width of around 15", while the next size down at 10" would have been fine for most purposes. But you really need the length. Perhaps I should have gone for the 55" rather than the 36".

    This is probably the cheapest way to get a cutter of this size. But I suspect that the prices will be coming down all the time, and I look forward to the time when we can simply pass G-Code files to each other rather than plans...

    cutter
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    πŸ“ Editing photos
    3 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Do ypu mean Model Boats magazine? https://www.modelboats.co.uk
    https://www.modelboats.co.uk
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    4 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    The vacuum jig seems to hold items very well - but there is always a danger that something may be nudged by the cutter and then items cut inside it may be out of place... I found that leaving a few thou uncut keeps everything nicely in position.

    The ragged edges seem to be caused by moving the cutter too fast through the wood when the RPM was low. They seem to have cleared up now that I am using 6-flute cutters instead or 2-flute.

    I suspect that when I go to ply I will need to use a beefier drive motor and slower feed speeds - probably multi-pass as well. But I've completed a whole kit now and will put it together before moving onto ply or other hard woods.

    One thing I would like to do is dump a log on the work area and carve a Streamlinia out of solid. But that will have to wait for a while.... 😊

    items
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    Streamlinia
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    πŸ“ Plan Sources
    4 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Looks like you have found the source of Mr Rowell's inspiration..!!!

    They really are very similar, aren't they?
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    πŸ“ CNC boat kits...?
    4 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Having successfully used the machine to make the workholding support for the wood sheets, I started on the final leg - getting the machine to actually produce parts for a model boat. It's just going to be used for EeZeBilt balsa parts initially, until I understand a bit more about cutting tools and feed rates.

    I'm not using a 'professional' spindle motor (which can cost well north of Β£100), but just an old model boat motor with a cheap Chinese chuck and milling head. You can see a couple of examples in the pictures below.

    The first material I tried to cut was cardboard. I wanted something really weak, because the cutting tools are very narrow, and I did not know how much sideways force they would take. Turned out fine, though.

    Further pictures show the first attempt at cutting balsa sheet, a whole sheet of 1/8 balsa being cut, and a couple of parts which have just been cut.

    Points to make:

    1 - you need a high RPM from the cutting motor if you want a fast feed speed. Boat motors work, but a high speed brushless would be better. As it is the edges of the balsa are a bit ragged...

    2 - Probably the best way to keep all the parts in the balsa sheet is not to use tabs, but just to cut 90% of the way through. I left about 5 thou on the balsa part, which meant it stayed in place but could easily be pushed out...

    3 - you need a soft surface under the balsa sheet in case you do cut deeper by mistake. I thought of felt but that gets caught up in the blade too easily. You could use another balsa sheet, but I used a bit of Correx. Depron would be fine...

    So there we are. I have now cut a complete kit out of balsa and will start to make it up. I can recommend this machine if you want to just sit and have a beer while all the hard work of cutting parts is done for you...!

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    πŸ“ Swordsman or Huntsman?
    6 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    It's an Aerokits Swordsman. is it 34 inches long? I see it has no under hull strakes, and the motor mount is not the original design...
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    πŸ“ posting problems
    6 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Anyone else having problems selecting a category when replying? I find that I can't do this, and then I am stopped from posting... :(
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    πŸ“ Model boat w gas motor/nitro
    10 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    'Is it Safe' is an unanswerable question. All action, including inaction, carries some sort of risk - much of it unquantifiable, since we cannot predict the future.

    You may be asking 'How much will a lake be damaged by running an I/C motor?' - that also is unquantifiable. More likely you are asking 'Will I be allowed to run an I/C motor on a lake?'. The answer to that will be in the various local laws covering that amenity.

    If we are just considering oil pollution, technically, all motor craft may leak some oil from the prop-shaft if it is lubricated. Exhaust gases may carry some oil from an I/C engine overboard, and will emit quite a lot if they use a total loss lubrication system (mixing oil in with the fuel). Pretty much all 2-stroke engines use this lubrication method. Steam engines also mix oil with the steam...

    You can add an oil trap in the exhaust pipe to capture much of the emitted oil. That's generally a good idea, because it's messy. I was doing this for just that reason in the 1960s when environmentalism was a crank religion...

    The actual danger, if any, depends not so much on the fact that some oil may be emitted, but on the total amount. But proportionality is no longer of any concern in today's world of manufactured panics.
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    πŸ“ Model Boat crew....
    11 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I think I understood that - it looks as if using computers is getting very close to being a general option for people instead of being an approach that only specialists would consider.

    I have successfully made up a CNC cutter and am starting to use it to cut model boat parts. I had no prior skill in that field and it cost me about the same as a Billing Boats Absalon kit.

    If people will put their work up on the web for free download then we can create a very useful resource for the modelling community. All someone who wanted a 1:8 scale winch would need to do would be to download the file and take it to the local library or MakerSpace for a cheap replica. I think that this is the way things are going, although the model parts companies are going to be very unhappy about it...

    computers
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    πŸ“ Model Boat crew....
    11 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I wonder if the 1:12 poseable mannequin available on ebay might be a good basis for the figure you require. You could pose it manually and then put the clothes on using filler...?
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-She-he-S-H-Figuarts-SHF-Body-Kun-DX-SET-Action-Figure-In-Box-Kids-Toy-Gift/283325849773?var=&hash=item41f78960ad&enc=AQADAAADAFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVUZmu2ebxPHrFnbzhYLpZZXkC2nWwE2z6ZxM9DVRF9VapUZUgbt7jNqFJTxg6s%2FnRNmRCEEY9zjkyOs6l8gv8NSuuXbOip4j%2FZ9kaVm7M93A09d39jCXIuHMqFncH1xqvJSnbUWH9TBS3dOfaNzCltBR5xcMBglCJyPUfOn86YwDgVAVNPv277Iuy4%2FXB9Az85CRtZV%2BxWj1%2F0ZiX%2BniVhQ3EXpijtbGlASc2ervpjxxzJMoGbGWU%2BBW4KrVKxNXVYhKisdfJvVTWoMDllb2exzzb2%
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    πŸ“ Model Boat crew....
    12 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    Now THAT is a useful thing to know. All we now need is a 3-D modeller with time on his hands to design half a dozen basic sailor forms in different sizes...
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    πŸ“ Model Boat crew....
    12 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I had hoped that this thread would cover ways to obtain useful model boat figures in the right scale and at a low cost. Re-casting existing models is useful, but only lets you reproduce what you already have, and 3-D printing seems VERY expensive at the moment.

    Perhaps 3-D printing will come down in price? And G Code files to print them might be offered free on the Web? In the meantime, I am still looking for good ways to obtain figures without having to pay the cost of a kit to get them.

    For my foreseeable future, I expect that modifying existing figures will be the best answer. As well as railway figures, there are a wide range of toy 'action figures' for sale at reasonable prices, particularly from charity shops. Looking on Ebay, these come in various sizes from 2" to 16" - but few of them will be suitable for modifying into nautical people with a bit of filler!

    This artist's mannequin at 5.5" looks promising for a 1:12 scale at less than a fiver - see below. If anyone can find some other good examples of good cheap scale figures, do mention it...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-She-he-S-H-Figuarts-SHF-Body-Kun-DX-SET-Action-Figure-In-Box-Kids-Toy-Gift/283325849773?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140328180637%26meid%3D0238345ecad344c6af20f5b5015319dc%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D113459497715%26itm%3D283325849773&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982
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    πŸ“ Static Model Boat Builders
    16 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    What is wrong with the current big static model site on the web: http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net ? That's been around for over 10 years now, and has sections for aircraft, land vehicles and boats. There are many original kit plans for download as well....
    http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net
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    http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/index.php?cat=4
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    πŸ“ Model Boat crew....
    16 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    A model vehicle - car, boat or plane - looks a little odd if it seems to be operating with no driver. Aircraft have quite a selection of different scale 'head and shoulders' figures - road vehicles seem to be made to standard scales so that driver figures are readily available - but boats are often made to a wide variety of scales and then need scale figures which are not readily available, and can be very pricey when they are!

    I was asked recently about figures on the boats I make, which are continuations of the Keil Kraft EeZeBilt line. These were originally 'pocket-money' starter kits for young children, so they were very cheap, and the fittings were not bought, but made from available household items like paper-clips. I have continued that tradition, so making an EeZebilt remains cheap and encourages manual dexterity rather than a large wallet!

    Figures can be made cheaply by adding filler to a wire armature, but this does require a bit of carving skill. It is easier to start with a basic shape and alter it a bit, and the obvious place to start is with a model railway figure. Cheap Chinese copies of products like the Preiser range are available on Ebay for around 10p per figure - see the link below for example.

    These figures are available in many scales from 1:200 up to about 1:24. The first point to make is that choosing a suitable scale to build your boat to will make it a lot easier to populate it with figures! I typically look to make boats at 1:24 or 1:48, two common scales for railways.

    Now the only problem is that the typical figures for sale are not sailors or naval personnel. Instead they are usually civilians, railway staff or workmen. But that is easily solved by using a modelling knife. I have illustrated this below with a set of drawings for a 1:48 figure - see the PDF link below:

    1 - a typical figure. Note the jacket and tie lines embossed on the body. I wanted to make an Indian Naval Officer, so my first step was to look up the colouring and shape of their uniform. I find that they wear white, with either a plain-front tunic or shirt and shorts.

    2 - To make a plain-front, simply scrape away the clothes lines embossed on the figure's trunk. You may also need to cut any hanging parts of a jacket away, or fill a hole with some modelling putty.

    3 - To adjust arms, slice them off and then re-attach with Plastic Weld. The plastic will melt and conform to the new shape.

    3 - To make shorts, just trim the long trousers in a bit at the shorts hem, then carve the lower leg to show the bulge of a calf.

    4 - An officers cap is easy to make. Stamp out two tiny paper disks using a sharpened brass tube, and cut one disk in half. Cut a slot across the figure's forehead, and superglue the half-disk in there to be the cap peak. The full disk goes on top of the figures head, and the excess glue is drawn by surface tension to make a brim. The glue will soak through the paper and make it hard. See the PDF below for details...
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-20Pcs-1-50-Scale-Unpainted-Model-People-Miniature-Figures-Human-Scenery/253556925439?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3Da655b27644144d6b88012aad6436f534%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D282226798553%26itm%3D253556925439&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
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    boat
    model vehicle - car
    vehicles
    jacket
    wallet
    range
    products
    shorts
    trousers
    shirt
    tunic
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    πŸ“ Radar with rotational drive
    16 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    They are made from cheap Chinese railway figures. I'll start another thread with more info, since this one is meant to be about radar.....
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    πŸ“ Radar with rotational drive
    17 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    I don't know the FS6. Can you adjust the rotational speed of the servos using it?
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bollards!
    17 days ago by DodgyGeezer ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)
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    You always have this lathe, of course. It's making torpedoes for the EeZeBilt PT Boat..... 😊
    http://eezebilt.tk/img_1222.jpg
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    lathe
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