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>> Home > Members > DodgyGeezer
18th Dec 2010
Last Online
18th Feb 2019

Member Stats
Member No. 1291
Registered 18th Dec 2010
Last Online 18th Feb 2019
City (Unknown)
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 0
Sailing Locations 0
Forum Posts 104
Photos Posted 26
Likes Received 59
Likes Given 0
120 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
No Sailing Locations
Empty Harbour
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
184 points away from Captain!
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 0
Forum Thread 5 35
Forum Post 2 208
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 10
Photos Response 3 6
Video Post 15 0
Video Response 3 3
Build Blog 20 0
Blog Post 5 0
Blog Response 3 36
Sailor 8 0
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 0
Received Likes 2 118
416 Total Points
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 18 hours ago
Things will be a bit up in the air with the Hobbico bankrupcy. But Horizon Hobby have taken over Futaba distribution - see They advise chasing Futaba USA for anything further - so these people might be the best to ask: Don't buy poor photocopies of manuals at exorbitant prices without checking with the manufacturer first....

New to Forum by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 day ago
"..Are any of the clubs focused on non RC models?..." Some people make the small EeZeBilts as static models - see here:

New to Forum by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 2 days ago
"..., however I have built from some plans. I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that..Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build.." Have you seen this site? Provides free templates for exactly the kind of models you make. See the illustrations.... While clean surfaces are the correct way to make solder flow and stick properly, you will find that plumber's Acid Flux will give you a successful solder joint on pretty much any surface, no matter how dirty...

Props - dumb question? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
The down side of prop rotation is that the Europeans use one method of defining it and the Americans use another - and they are contradictory. From the Prop-Shop site "Please note that propeller rotation is based on the British and American standard (viewing the boat from the stern) which is the opposite to that in Germany." See,3541...

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 3 days ago
I'm not a Futaba specialist, but isn't that the Helicopter version of the FP-7? If so, it will have a lot of settings and features which will be 'very confusing' to a marine modeller...

Trying to trace a boat by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 5 days ago
There are very many small remote controlled ready-to-run model boats on the market - mainly from China. Lots of shops do a selection of them. Almost all of them come in several colours - they are intended to be bought for kids in a family to race against each other. See

Help with vintage rc. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
I wouldn't want to stop people running old kit - far from it! I have a single-channel 1962 Macgregor with a Kinematic which I use occasionally - when there's no other 27Mhz around. But you need to be aware of the issues. With this sort of kit (and even worse for valve systems) you will find that summer is for sailing, and winter is for repairing. Here is the start of a thread on RC Groups with myself and Taurus Flyer sorting out a capacitor problem on the TX - which meant reverse engineering both the Rx and TX.... One example of problems you may encounter is that the caps in old kit tend to die, particularly if the equipment has not been used for many years. Electrolytics, in particular, suffer. See You can sometimes reform the electrolytics by turning the TX and Rx on and leaving them powered up for a day or so. It's tricks like this that you need to be aware of if you are going to run vintage equipment....

Help with vintage rc. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 8 days ago
I think the Digimax had interchangeable crystals - but didn't it also have 4-wire servos? If so, you will need a full Digimax set.... In general, it is not a good idea to use Vintage equipment unless you know what you are doing. The kit will be old, could need maintenance or repair (which may not be easy to source) and will have less range, reliability and interference rejection capability than modern sets. It will be 27Mhz. You may have to repair the electronics yourself. If you source a transmitter which SHOULD work with it, but doesn't, you will need expert attention to determine what is wrong - again, this will be hard to find. I assume that you do not know if that receiver works at the moment.... Running vintage radios is rather like running vintage cars. They look great when they are operating properly, but need a lot of work to maintain, and do not perform as well as modern kit. One source of help might be the Single Channel and Vintage RC group here - . They have specialists in old equipment...

Emma C. Berry by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 9 days ago
I see that you have uploaded copies of the Sterling 'America' plan. I run a website which provides copies of old model boat plans for free download, aimed at letting a new generation of modellers create past models so that they are not entirely forgotten. 1 - Would you be happy for me to load these copies (or better ones if you have them!) to this site? 2 - Do you have any further information - part templates or box are, for instance - that you could contribute? You may see what we already have under the Sterling name here:

Uploading pics by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 12 days ago
Frequently the camera has a 'micro USB' connector on it. If you plug a lead into that (should have come with the camera, or buy one on EBay) and connect that to your computer you will probably see an extra drive - which will be the camera, and on this will be your pictures. If you tell us the name/model of the camera, we can easily find the manual on the web. This will give you all the information you need about loading pictures from it....

Sea Queen - strakes by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 14 days ago
The principle is simple. Fluid flowing over a surface tends to stick to it (Google Coanda Effect). It's worse at the low Reynolds numbers that models work at. The result is that water displaced by the boat at speed tends to flow up the sides of the hull, sticking to them, and can even pour onto the deck. This slows the boat down and can swamp it. If you have a sharp chine, you can force the water to move away from the hull at the discontinuity, because it can't easily flow around a sharp angle. Ideally, you can deflect it downwards and get some lift, helping the boat onto the plane. So a lot of models have small rails along the chine, shaped to deflect the water downwards a bit. This is what many of the Aerokits models have. Deep Vee design relies on these a lot - the bottom of the hull has a series of parallel spray rails so that as the boat rises in the water the spray is deflected downwards by each rail in turn and an ever-smaller part of the hull bottom is wetted - reducing drag a lot. But the Sea Queen is not a Deep Vee, and doesn't need more that the one set of rails along the chine. Deep Vee spray rails can also help to cushion the shock when a boat drops back into the water after leaving it - but that's more useful in full-size practice rather than models....

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
I'm thinking about interchanging boat plans as CNC files - so I'm thinking about the sort of machines people are going to have at home. There are a lot of 'cheap Chinese' machines on EBay for £200 up to about £500 - but these will be used for engraving, and will have cutting tables of about 8" square. Boat modellers really need a long axis. The Shapeoko is an 'open source' hardware design - much like the Rep-Rap, and the great thing about it is that you can specify the axis sizes - so you can have a machine which is a foot by six feet if you wish. I have just bought a UK kit for one called the eShapeoko - 1m x 500mm - cost about £500. But there is so much to consider - calibrating the machine, choosing a spindle drive, picking a software set....

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Ah - I've never used any commercial packages - just Open Source. I presume that your company matched their software to the machines they had. i'm finding that different home machines seem to have slightly different command sets - for homing, for instance....

Dumas kit by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Which country are you in? There are a few available on the US EBay site....

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 15 days ago
Not much point uploading a .pdf, unless it has some unusual conversion software. CNC machines work off G Code. The work area is critical for model boat work. Typical parts are long and thin. The eShapeoko I am building is a nominal 1m x 500mm, which lets me do a 36" keel piece. I would like to put out G Code for cutting the EeZebilt boats, but am not sure how to standardise it so that many CNC machines will be able to use it. Different CNC controllers seem to use subtly different G Code commands...

1950s sea commander refurb. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
".....Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones ....." There was never a 'templates sheet', of course. There were just the original kit parts. This is a fundamental problem with trying to 'save' old model boat plans. The aircraft plans usually have all parts described precisely. Many - possibly most - boat kits are essentially sets of parts with assembly instructions. So, if you need to reproduce an old kit, you need to include part templates as well. Which means a lot of work for someone. Not only do you have to obtain an example of the original kit, measure it up and draw it using a CAD package, but you also have to allow for the fact that wood changes, and that die-cut parts may be cut badly, and so what you have measured may need correcting - sometimes quite extensively. Here's a classic example - the old Yeoman MINX, with templates drawn up...

1950s sea commander refurb. by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 16 days ago
".......If you have a computer, they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "Paint" or use Take the image and open with Paint, then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save........" The fully-featured Open Source image processing package is called 'The Gimp'. You can download it for free, and it enables you to perform any image manipulation process you like - matching professional packages like Photoshop. I use it to create full drawings of vintage model boat plans which are often sent to me as a set of partial A4-sized scans. These can easily be re-sized, rotated, matched up and stitched together to make a full-sized drawing. For example, look at any of the Stirling plans on my Old Boats website:

Help to indentify this tug please by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 19 days ago
"..... Hi al2612, and rather a pity that folks on here don't have proper names......" When you see what occasionally happens to people who put their real names, or any other identification data, on the internet you can see why many people do not.

Lazer cut Kits by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 23 days ago
There would be no need to remove them if you simply follow the correct procedure and ask permission from the rights holder. I have found that Amerang are quite happy to allow people to make use of their old plans. They were happy for me to reverse engineer the kits, create line drawings and place them on my web site for the use of younger modellers. Maybe you came across them there? If you had asked, I could have given you a .DXF file and saved you some work......

Lazer cut Kits by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 24 days ago
The first two look like the Mermaid and the Cresta from the old Keil Kraft range. You should be aware that Amerang still hold the rights for those....

AIR FOR STEAM by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 24 days ago
CO2 fizzy drinks cylinders? The old CO2 engines used to get reloaded from 'sparklets' mini-cylinders...

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 28 days ago
"........Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa...." That reminds me - how are you coming along with the Taycol Board tests? And the modified circuit? I remain interested to see what you have done. Have I missed the post? ".........Do those boards follow the circuit diagrams on the Taycol web site? I seem to remember that you said you had 'refined them slightly'? Hi Dodgy, The board for Colin's Supermarine yes. After I modified my original version when I discovered excessive heating effects during initial trials. The 'little ones' I made for my Taycol Target no, not quite! Will publish details, with wiring diagrams and test results, in the relevant blogs shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎..........."

If dogs could talk by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
What is this 'facebook' of which you speak?

Park lakes by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
"........PS I'm not sure if any other members are in the Leeds area who may be interested in sailing at Roundhay Park, please contact me........." I have a son living close to there who might be interested in model boat sailing opportunities...

Smoke generator by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
The first time I ever made a smoke generator was in the 1960s at school - for flow visualisation in a wind tunnel I was building. There there was no shortage of power, so i used a 1/4" glass tube wrapped with asbestos and nichrome heating wire, and boiled paraffin in it - no wick. Loads of lovely white smoke once it was forced through a cooling fan - but it was oily and smelly, and not ideal for lab work.... Later when I built a Revell Bluebell corvette, I made a shallow perspex dish with the glass-fibre wick, and used the smoke fluid from a disco smoke-maker. That's essentially a glycol/water mix - much less smelly. Unless they add perfume.... I suspect that paraffin would be less smelly outdoors, though fire and an oily residue would be hazards. You should be able to get a bottle of glycol smoke/fog fluid for less than a fiver....

Smoke generator by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I made a smoke generator back in the 1990s, and used some nichrome from a broken hairdryer wrapped around a wick made from glass fibre insulation. That withstood the heat very well...

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
That could, indeed, be the simple answer..!

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I'll probably go for a laser cutter in the end. A big CO2 one - but these are powerful tools, and i'd like to have a reliable cutting bed before experimenting with something that might cut the shed in half! The obvious answer is to use some driver software that does handle tool radius compensation - I understand that the Tiny board firmware is now open source with a new name - G2Core. I think it needs a bit more poke than an Arduino Uno, though. I intend to simply slot sheets of balsa into it and crank out kit parts - which means a single pass cut. One issue is how to hold the sheet of balsa down without interfering with the cut. I was wondering about a vacuum base. If you want to observe a laser cutter safely, I hear that the Yank modellers are sealing them in enclosures, and viewing progress through a webcam, which is one answer....

CNC boat kits...? by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
I'm doing the eShapeoko - I wanted a more rigid machine for general purposes, and I liked the fact that you could specify the X and Y axis lengths. For cutting model boat parts you rarely want something as wide as 1 foot - but you often want items of length greater than 1 yard. The eShapeoko has standard sizes as extreme as 15 inches by 60 inches, and can easily be extended. I've gone for 18 x 36 inches - should be fine for EeZebilts... One of the things that's a bit annoying with GRBL is that it doesn't currently do tool radius compensation. I'm using an arduino with grbl as well, and if I cut my plans as drawn they will all be a tool radius out. I am currently looking to use a 0.5mm tool so the effect will be small - but if you know of a better driver interpreter...?

Rx-tx confusion by DodgyGeezer Commander   Posted: 1 month ago
"....Am I expecting too much to get a definitive answer from the inter web?...." If you ask a system which has 3.25 billion people connected to it, you are unlikely to get just one answer... 😤