Brian
Over hear in the US we have the american model association has all specs on all model sailboats . I have a 10 rater which is 60 inches long 18 inches wide. The keel on my looks same as yours.

My boat is scratch built. Make the rudder out of Fiberglass it worked for me😊.

Harbor models have 1/20 scale which are 3 3/4 " . Close to 1/16
Have a look

I completed the Dumas 36" CHRISCraft several years ago. I made sure all of wood planking was completely smooth and minus all dents. I covered the model in 5 oz. fiberglass cloth and cover it with resin/Hardener. The planking immediately shine out. I then did a light sanding and gave it one more coat of resin/hardener. When dried I put some auto wax on it. You can purchase this material in marine stores or a good hardware store.
My father and i did this a long time ago a real 22 foot ChrisCraft barrel .
We did a small corner of the boat first, you can do the same on the model. We did fiberglass the whole boat so that we didn't have to soak the boat at beginning of the summer

I have 5 working but cannot do them all at once and 1 being work on and one in planned restoration and something down the line.

Have you given any though to installing the electrical gear

Great idea I will be reviewing your Pictures. Well done

I have 3 boats that way and they turned quite good. They are definitely strong. I have fiberglass a 4 real boats. The product can be messy but definitely worth the work and time.

You made a hard job look easy. Do you cover the boat with fiberglass cloth and resin

😊 Great looking boat. I love it when a boat gets up on plain .

Excellent looking tug did you put any lighting on it. I am building AZIZ kit which is being quite demanding. I like tugs because represent brute force.
I have a 55 inch tug with sound system which was built from scratch

Absolutely great job. How does she run

I have large tug 54" long and weights approximately 70LBS. I have has a terrible time in making the model respond to anytype of turns when in reverse.
Harbor models has a throtte and Rudder Mixer. that solve the entire situation. Each engine must have it own controller. When you go to starboard the starboard prop stops while the port prop continues. To make it even turn quicker to can set the switches on the mixer make the starboard Prop go in reverse and still have the port prop continue foward. You almost don't need the rudder. it has been a life saver. (harbormodels.com)

The tug has running with excellent control. Just added a sound system which even makes it more
realistic . The mixer is a P40D. I am now working AZIZ Build by model shipways.

The Sidney Madison is part the David Towing Company located in PA USA it has running lights and deck lights. it weights 75 lbs has a 21" beam and draws 6" of water. She handles 2 barges quite nicely. The 4 bladed prop is 100mm. it contains sound system and a moter mixer which allows for easy steerable control (Motor: Stature) (ESC: Marine 30) (7/10)

Thank you for the reply. I got them running but I put everything on a work bench and it easy to see how everything is wire and easy to test all connections. I will keep everyone posted.

Thanks again

Electronise esc's come with the red/black/white receiver wire with 2 of the wires disconnnected when new, well mine did last week, same model!

I think its incase you have a different wiring set up, but cant think why. You have to just push the 2 small connector pins into the connector block, MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE CORRECT ORDER! or it wont work. The motor wires are blue and yellow, but dont have pos/neg markings, you cannot do any damage if you get them the wrong way round, the motor will just run the wrong way, so make the connections temporary before soldering to check its right. I would recommend Deans connectors, not tamiya etc, as they fit together tight, are polarity matched so you cant get it wrong, and carry much higher amperage than tamiya.
DONT GET THE BATTERY WIRES WRONG! as that will blow the esc and invalidate the warranty, I thnk thats what you are referring to! 😊

Gregory Thank you very much for the reply. When I said the draw by the motors that is when they are running a max speed which will not be the case here. I think my problem occurred when I was trying to align the receiver wires. Futuba has a cutout on the end of receiver(prevent from plugging in incorrectly) and with the hitec one can easily plug it incorrectly. I have built a test bench with everything I need in the boat. This way one can easily test the entire apparatus before putting it into the boat.

Greg I might have some questions later on but thank you for your reply

Don

HI Don6398
As gregoryk9 says your speed controllers each need to connect their three wires (red,black,white) to the receiver.
I do not understand when you say the red and black are not connected. in many ways a speed controller is identical to a servo with regard to the control signal so needs to have this connection to work.
Then again I do believe Electronize used to supply their units with different plugs to allow you to select either a Futaba type connector or Hitec etc. in that case you need to put the black lead into the left slot, the red lead into the middle slot and the white lead into the right slot. I suggest you look at one of your servo leads and copy the wiring.
The other four wires will be much thicker. Red to battery positive, Black to battery negative, and if my memory is correct Yellow and Blue to you motor.
Yes you do have all the wires connected - 1 3pin plug to your servo, 1 3 pin plug to a speed controller, 1 3 pin plug to the other speed controller, 1 3pin plug to your 4.8v receiver battery or switch harness.
I am not familiar with your distribution box (harbor models) but assuming this is just for the 12v supply it should not affect the receiver side.
Motor draws of 12amps will as gregoryk9 says not give you a long run on you 7Ahr battery. However gel cells are designed to give more power than their rated capacity - this is really just a measure of what capacity the makers claim the battery will deliver for 1 hour. if the battery gets very hot after a run then I suggest you uprate or possibly change to NiMh/NiCad.
Do ensure that all the high current (ie motor wires) are kept well away from the receiver signal wires and your aerial. Also some form of suppression in the form of capacitors around the motor connections would ensure you don't experience interference at distant range. Hope this answers your questions. Good luck
dave 😛

I have just purchase 2 Electronize speed controllers model
FR30HX which have no BEC.

I am running with to stature motors which In high continuous running use 12 to 14 amps (12 volts. I am using one 12 volt 7amp cell battery which Is contnected through a distribution box (harbor models)

I have a 4 channel Futaba receiver. I have been using a 4.8 volt receiver battery to power the servos.

The controllers have a receiver harness that has the regular black(-) red(+) and white(signal). The red and black are not connected.

If I have just the receiver battery on do I leave the black and red from the speed controller disconnected.

I am looking for help. I do not want to burn the units up.
Any discussion would be greatly appreciated.