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    EdH
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    Member No.#5734
    RegisteredπŸ“…17th Jan 2020
    Last OnlineπŸ“…6th Jun 2020
    CityπŸ“Edgecomb
    CountryπŸ‡ΊπŸ‡ΈUnited States
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    πŸ‡©πŸ‡ͺ RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Recent Activity
    Liked Re: Concerned Doctor 2 months ago
    Liked Re: Fold down mast rigged 2 months ago
    Liked Re: Fold down mast rigged 2 months ago
    Liked Re: Anchor, chain, hawsepipe 2 months ago
    Liked Boat hooks 2 months ago
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    Ed H
    Recent Posts
    πŸ’¬ Re: RAF Crash Tender maiden run
    7 days ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Rob, I had a club member running it and still managed to mess up the photography. Part of the trouble was the sun made it hard to see the camera screen and my camera doesn't let me look through the viewfinder for video. Ed
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    πŸ“ RAF Crash Tender maiden run
    7 days ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Brought the Wesmac and this winter's RAF Crash Tender to my local model club meet. First time for the Tender and I was happy with her performance, but not with my photography. Will bring a tripod next time! When you run models at far greater scale speeds than the original, instability is always a risk, but she was very steady even in tight turns. With the finished interior, figures and added details, she is quite a bit heavier than intended, which might well have helped. She was at full throttle once in the video, towards the beginning, just after passing the other boat. I particularly liked the way she flattened out at speed. The massive Wesmac seemed to dwarf the tender but at 34.5", she's not that small! An enjoyable day with like minded souls and their beautifully made models. Hope the video loads ok! Ed
    RAF Crash Tender first run
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Concerned Doctor
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    This is great. Thanks Doug.
    Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Concerned Doctor
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks, this is helpful Doug! So the working uniform would be a jacket and trousers, all dark blue? Perhaps a crew neck sweater underneath?

    I had also heard this picture was taken during the delivery and these were employees.

    The doc would be too difficult to change at this point. He's glued to his bunk and only accessible from above!

    Thanks again. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Concerned Doctor
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks Doug, but for better or for worse, the doc is done and glued in place, white overalls and all! The figure I need help with is the guy manning the forward fire hose on deck, to be done some time in the reasonably near future. I posted an old time picture, but it's hard to see what they are wearing. It's definitely not yellow though! Thanks. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Concerned Doctor
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks Martin. It looks like those not in formal uniform are wearing Guernsey style sweaters. That's a possible idea. Not sure I'm going to give him a cap though. That would be tough to keep on while hanging on to those hoses! Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Concerned Doctor
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    I was surprised I didn't get more people weighing in on this, as in the past this site has been a good source for information, even when, as in this case, no one often really knows the answers to the question! Love to hear what people think my guy would be wearing. Need some constructive help and inspiration here! Ed
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    πŸ“ Concerned Doctor
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    For some reason I missed posting the concerned doctor, done a while ago. He was made the same way as the previous figures. Not sure how he would be dressed, but put him in a white coat so it was a little more obvious who he was.

    I want to add a figure on deck, operating the forward fire hose. I purposely pointed this hose high in the air, so the figure can be kneeling, giving a larger area to attach and less chance of breakage by a grandson! He could either have one knee on the ground like the guy to the left, or both like the guy on the right. Suggestions?

    Where I really need HELP is how he would be dressed. I was thinking some kind of oilskin, but I'm not sure if it should be yellow. The picture isn't much help as I believe, as someone else said, that this was a builder's demonstration run picture. Maybe even Vosper employees! Suggestions very welcome!

    I'm going to put this on hold for a bit, as I put the floats in last week and we are getting ready to play with real boats! We have to make the most of the boating season in Maine. My daughter sends me pictures of tree blossoms and beautiful flowers in London but here the daffodils are just starting (2" little green shoots!).
    Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Fold down mast rigged
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Doug, I use split pins a lot. One of my favorites was the chain plates for a Bristol Channel Pilot a couple of years ago. One side of the pin was bent 90 degrees and epoxyed into a bulkhead, while two smaller pins held it against the side of the boat. It was so strong you could lift the (heavy) boat by the shrouds!
    I was wondering if doing a weekly build blog on a past scratch build is frowned on. Every one of my boats has been built in a different way (some radically different!) so they might be of interest, but I don't know if it should be a current project. I only do one a winter! Ed
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    πŸ“ Fold down mast rigged
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    The metal mast is rigged. The forward cleats are split pins with epoxy sanded to shape. The aft cleats are rectangular brass with a brass pin. After cleaning windows etc., permanently glued the wheelhouse roof on, sealing this area.
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    πŸ“ Anchor, chain, hawsepipe
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    The anchor chain that Graham sent to me arrived yesterday. He wouldn’t accept money for the item or the international postage to the US. I post on 4 Facebook pages and Instagram, so, without using your name Graham, plenty of modelers now know about your random act of kindness! The chain is naturally quite delicate and I imagined it would end up broken if left to flop around on deck, so I replicated the cabin top and deck with scrap wood and ran CA glue down the chain to make it rigid, moving it to the model when dry. Thank you Graham, both for the chain and the kind gesture which left a good feeling in these strange times!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Wheelhouse Roof
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Doug, I was misled by the salesman who was not totally honest. There was no Kelvin number quoted but he made a point of saying how white they were. It’s not a problem and not too noticeable unless the voltage drops, plus I only paid $5 for 50 of them! Maybe not quoting the kelvin should have been a sign. Our house is full of LEDs and we are very careful what we buy. Was my own fault but it doesn’t look bad!
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    πŸ“ Wheelhouse Roof
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Although the hatch opens, the wheelhouse roof cannot be removed, so decided to add more light to show the details inside. Put 6 concealed bulbs in the ceiling, as well as a spotlight and masthead light. These bulbs were advertised as white but there's a very slight blue caste, which goes away if you up the voltage slightly over the rated 3v. Of course they then get very hot and the only way to replace an LED is to cut the roof off! The bulbs are tiny - 1.4 millimeters!
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    πŸ“ Electronics and running gear
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Electronics and running gear were a bit of a challenge as the fake engine room insert had to be large enough to be realistic which left very little space underneath it. There's just 1/8" clearance above the flexible coupling and the lower end is resting on the connecting strip screws! The motor is forward under the center cockpit and there's a wall panel at the aft end of the sickbay that snaps out for access to the screws if the motor needs to be changed. The 60 amp ESC is tucked under the aft cockpit switch panel, with a ventilation screen cut into the fake engine room. Not as neat as I would have liked but everything had to fit in a very small space.
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    πŸ“ Kent Clear View Screen and fold down mast
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Wanted to include the Kent clear view screen. I've driven boats with them and they really work! Ground down a black plastic washer to make it thinner. Cut the end off a metal tube for the center and filled it with epoxy. The drive mechanism should be behind the glass, but this was a lot easier and isn't that noticeable!
    Also started on the fold down mast. Made it from brass tubing, but had to be careful not to let solder clog up passages as the masthead light wiring had to be threaded through.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The stand
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Sorry Peter, only for family! Ed πŸ˜€
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    πŸ“ The stand
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    The stand. I enjoy designing them differently for every model, attaching in 4, 3 or even 2 places! They have to hold the model securely, be comfortable to lift and carry, yet appear elegantly simple! Made this one in Poplar wood, but instead of clear coating it as normal, I used a light grey/green colored stain as there is so much grey in this model. Being a stain, the wood still shows through. A light spray of clear coat protects it.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Graham, this really is incredibly kind. I will PM you with the info. Thank you. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Graham, that's very kind, but we live in the US, so postage would be more than if we were in the UK and I'm not sure how I could get funds to you! Hope you are fairing ok in these crazy times. Ed
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    πŸ“ Homemade Hawsepipe and Fairleads
    2 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    The set of accessories for the RAF Crash Tender did not include a hawsepipe for the anchor chain and was missing two aft fairleads. I made a 90 degree bend in some brass pipe, making some aggressive V cuts on the inside, filling in gaps with epoxy and sanding to shape. The base was made by adding two additional sleeves, then cutting, leaving a lip. Painted, then distressed with lacquer. Now all I need 3" of fine chain but at this time it's not worth visiting the stores or ordering such a small amount online. The two aft fairleads I made in wood and painted them the same way. I think the accessory set meant me to use cleats aft instead, but the original had cleats further forward and fairleads aft!
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    πŸ“ Painting and enhancing fittings
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Painted the set of soft metal fittings (still made 58 years after my Dad and I built this model, though quality has slipped a bit). The lifebelt was virtually a plain metal ring, so to make it more realistic (like others on this site), I epoxied a rope around it, using CA glue to make the 90 degree bends rigid. I wanted to show the bindings more realistically, but wanted to paint the threads before mounting them, so instead of winding them on directly, I made a frame, wound fine cotton around it, soaked the threads in CA glue and painted them. When dry, I cut the cotton into lengths, bent them around the lifebelt and glued.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Rob, the tip of the iron not only is tapered but also bends up, so it’s possible to touch only a very small area against the item if required. I used 1/8” tape and the paint didn’t suffer. I didn’t leave it touching for very long though (!) and quickly pressed it down with a clean cloth. If I did it again I would probably use thee pieces across the chine instead of one continuous piece. It stuck fine, but I probably could have made it look a bit better. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Doug, the iron is from Horizon Hobby and is part of the Hanger 9 series of products, though who knows who actually makes it. I’ve tried a couple in my days of building planes and like the way it stays at a pretty steady temperature, which of course can be adjusted. It also can take cloth β€˜gloves’ that make it less aggressive when smoothing out film. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Hull preparation and painting
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Rob and Peter, I have used Ultrastripe, which is part of Hanger 9’s UltraCote system, on all boats for some years. We live on a tidal estuary so these boats have spent plenty of time in salt water and one has never come off yet! I have never clear coated my hulls, but see the need with these transfers. UltraCote is used to cover model plane frames and the iron shrinks the plastic but it also seems to do something to the adhesive. It seems to be made in Germany, probably under a different name. Ed
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    πŸ“ Hull preparation and painting
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    I've been working on the hull for the last couple of weeks. Considering how rough it was, it came out ok. Leaks, holes and strength issues were already taken care of from the inside with fiberglass and resin, so glass work on the outside was largely cosmetic. Added a strake along the chine, which was pretty banged up. Did three coats of brown primer, the first sanded almost all off, then black topsides. Used a knife mounted in a block to scribe the waterline, then masked and painted the antifouling. Added transfers. After reading some of these blogs, I intend to coat the whole hull in matte clear coat, which I haven't done in the past, but I also I haven't had to use transfers. The white waterline is put on with an iron at 300 degrees.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Nerys, I'm fascinated by what people do with 3D pens and printing and realize it takes an enormous amount of time and skill, but I shy away from it for myself. I love the detailed 3D pieces some members bring to the meetings of the local modeling club I belong to. Likewise I personally get more pleasure building from scratch, using a (sometimes completely) different building method for each project and trying to figure out how I can engineer it, but I have such admiration for the museum level quality people can bring their projects to, however they start! Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Pete, with brass pieces I tend to be a heavy hitter! I use a torch with very hot MAPP gas, heating the whole piece very quickly, then melting the regular flux cored solder along the whole length. Because every part was so hot, the solder melted away evenly into the sides. I didn't have to turn it over to do the other side and as you can see in the picture taken while it was still hot, there was very little to clean up. Best. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Nerys, after buying the tow hook and being disappointed to the point of not using it (except for the hook), I looked at pictures of the crane kit and felt it was worth trying to create something better. You might be surprised how easy this was to make. True it doesn't have the nice curve of the real thing, but it was easier to build this way. It's amazing what you can do with bits lying around the bench. The two servo linkage ends made a winch handle and the block assembly (the handle part of the winch is the threaded part of the linkage bent at 90 degrees, if it's not clear how it worked). Likewise the bollard in the kit wasn't great and this was a simple, but more realistic solution. Best. Ed
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Yes Robbob! Your blog has been quite the inspiration for several things I’ve done in this project. Thanks. Ed
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    πŸ“ Crane for the RAF Crash Tender
    3 months ago by EdH ( Warrant Officer)
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    Made the crane for loading cargo and presumably unfortunate ditched airmen. Made the attachment for both sides in the center cockpit, but only one works. The crane does swivel. I used brass sheet and rectangular brass pipe cut along one edge, soldered together. The winch handle and end pulley were both made from servo linkage ends. One side was removed and the other bent to make the winch handle and two washers made the pulley block. Painted it with oil based grey metallic, a fine spray of black and finally graphite dust lacquer (breaking all the rules) to distress it. It's wider and not as curved as the original, but gives the idea. Also made the bow bollard from brass tubing (rectangular and round). Anchored it solidly, deep into the bow section, in case someday a grandchild uses it for its intended purpose!
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