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    Elsrickle
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    Member No.#4731
    RegisteredπŸ“…7th Jan 2018
    Last OnlineπŸ“…26th Apr 2020
    CityπŸ“Bridgend
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
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    kelpie
    Springer Tug with fibreglass hull and plastic card deck. The rest of the build I have done on 3D printer using the easy cad part programme just as a fun project to see what could be done on a 3D printer by a beginner. The Shottel drives I bought and are driven by speed 600 motors, also I bought the 19mm bow thruster. The lights are all working remote using a quad switch from Action Electronics the spotlights can move on mountings and lens are removable for lamp replacement, with the rear flashing beacons coming on when the winch is selected using the aux channel. The engine sound generator works from the throttle channel and the horn operates on the gear switch. As I have only one loudspeaker fitted below the winch platform the gear switch for the horn also energises a relay which transfers the loudspeaker signal from engine to horn. Speed controllers are fitted to bow thruster and winch motors. There is also a photo sensor on the front which brings on the flashing light on wheelhouse roof when a object is within 150mm from it(ie boat to be pushed). The names on side and rear are all 3D printed letters not transfers. And the wheelhouse roof is held on with magnets for easy replacement of lamps or resistors. I have also fitted with two receivers to work from either of my two transmitters for convenience if a rescue is required, while I am sailing with one transmitter then I can use the other. This is easily selected by use of double pole three position slide switch. Apologies for photos being a bit mixed up.
    Walston (Fifie)
    Amati kit not much extras fitted this time only Navigation and interior lights and water cooling pump, also all working rigging and Mizzen sail. Fishing buoys all tied with strong nylon with 3mt coil below if boat is lost floats give its position.
    Puffer
    Built from Mountfleet kit. Chain drive operates Rudder . Puffer sound, whistle, smoke generator, working lights Navigation and interior also flickering orange and red for boiler fire.all switched from transmitter.
    (Fire Boat) Fire float Mk2
    Old kit which I renovated tried to make near as original. Quite fast with the brushless motors. (Motor: Graupner) (ESC: Hawk) (8/10)
    (Other) Pesce Volante
    Static kit from Gilberto Penzo modified to Rc on rudder only (5/10)
    (Naval Ship) MTB 77
    Italeri Kit with triple screws running from one Esc had to fit larger rudders for better manoeuvrability (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Mytroniks) (6/10)
    (Yacht) Surmount
    First RC yacht build (5/10)
    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Alternative Deck Planking
    3 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    The method I use especially on my trawlers is to leave a gap between the planks. The size of depending on the scale, usually I use a piece of thin strip of wood as a spacer. After all decking is down I then smear the whole deck with a dark wood filler making sure it is pushed well into the gap and allow to dry. Then sand it back to the wood. I seal it with 2/3 coats of varnish.
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    πŸ“ kelpie
    3 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Springer Tug with fibreglass hull and plastic card deck. The rest of the build I have done on 3D printer using the easy cad part programme just as a fun project to see what could be done on a 3D printer by a beginner.
    The Shottel drives I bought and are driven by speed 600 motors, also I bought the 19mm bow thruster. The lights are all working remote using a quad switch from Action Electronics the spotlights can move on mountings and lens are removable for lamp replacement, with the rear flashing beacons coming on when the winch is selected using the aux channel.
    The engine sound generator works from the throttle channel and the horn operates on the gear switch. As I have only one loudspeaker fitted below the winch platform the gear switch for the horn also energises a relay which transfers the loudspeaker signal from engine to horn.
    Speed controllers are fitted to bow thruster and winch motors.
    There is also a photo sensor on the front which brings on the flashing light on wheelhouse roof when a object is within 150mm from it(ie boat to be pushed).
    The names on side and rear are all 3D printed letters not transfers. And the wheelhouse roof is held on with magnets for easy replacement of lamps or resistors.
    I have also fitted with two receivers to work from either of my two transmitters for convenience if a rescue is required, while I am sailing with one transmitter then I can use the other. This is easily selected by use of double pole three position slide switch.
    Apologies for photos being a bit mixed up.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Final stage
    5 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Martin Will be doing a video later.if don’t get the weather a bit milder might do one inside to show the working parts.
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Final stage
    5 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Have managed to complete the masts and final parts of the build just got a couple of flags to fix to funnel. When the weather gets a bit better will get it in the local lake.
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    πŸ“ Puffer
    5 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi jugge I have built the Mountfleet kit of the puffer. Nice kit with fibreglass hull and white metal fittings instructions and plans are also good. Called the Highlander comes as 1:24 scale and 840mm long.
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Arduino Transmitter link up
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi G6SWJ thanks this is getting more complicated for me but am going to give the circuits a try will take me some time to fully understand it all but it’s a great challenge. Have been reading a lot on the arduino site you told me about a lot of help there as well.
    Elsrickle
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    πŸ“ Arduino Transmitter link up
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Stephen thanks your are right on the track I am trying to get too. Will give this a try. I will only be trying it as test at the moment and will work on one led only. As I am totally new to this field I have a lot to learn have only managed to get the default light working so far. But will get onto your circuit first chance I have.
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Arduino Transmitter link up
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks G6SWJ am looking at some leds 4 or 5 on one switch and 3 grain of rice on another not more than 80-100 milliamperes per circuit.
    Will check out for tutorials on the net on how to read the PWM outputs
    Many thanks Ian
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    πŸ“ Arduino Transmitter link up
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks Martin will check it out
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Arduino Transmitter link up
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Am looking into a new project. I would like to use an arduino board to switch lights on and off to start with. Using the stick on the tx in one direction for on and opposite direction for off by jabing it a set number of times for each set of lights is this possible
    Or can the arduino be used to programme an ic to do this job.
    Is this possible for a beginner with arduino or is it too complicated.
    All advice and ideas welcome. Am trying to avoid relays and make my own circuits instead of using action quad switches.

    stick
    relays
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    πŸ“ Superstructure
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Have at last almost finished the superstructure, just the mizzen sail and funnel emblem to make and fit. All lighting system done fitted and with multi pin plug for lights and JR plug for d/f motor.
    Loudspeaker is for the ships horn. Decking is done same as main deck and wheelhouse done with planking same as forecastle front. Hard to see but small figure in wheelhouse at the helm. Funnel is fitted with smoke generator. Main mast same as foremast made in sections on printer just so both would match.

    printer
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Oceanic refit
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Ian just seen your query. It is the qidi x pro printer that I’m using.had no problems with it, comes quickly from amazon. As this is the my first dealing with it I’m impressed I can set it to print a selection of small model in two different colours at the same time. Have made Nav light board with red inside and black outside by merging the two. Can scale down or up a model to the size required. I work with easy cad it is quite simple to make models on.
    Their after sales service for advice in operating it is really good.
    I’m extremely happy with mine.
    Any other queries let me know I’ll help if I can
    Ian

    printer
    models
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Deck planking
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Absolutely no staining at all just smear on lightly making sure it gets in between the joints and leave till fully dry, then sand down to planking.
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    πŸ“ Deck planking
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Decided to fit planking instead of the printed sheets, and also planked the forecastle entrance. This is held in position with two magnets at each end as I require access to anchor winch. After glueing down the planking with half mill spacing I then coated the gaps with dark wood filler and when dry sanded off to give the caulking effect between planks. Then finished with a satin varnish. Have glued down deck and fitted the bulkhead fillets also most of the fittings on main deck and fore deck.

    sheets
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Many thanks Graham will check it out now
    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics 2
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Martin any time at all only too happy to oblige. Enjoy the challenge, hardest part is finding the circuits.
    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Maybe when I start trawling
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Electrics 2
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Some of the circuits I built on veroboard board using circuit drawings I found on the net. Steam sound generator is MRW, whistle, single and quad switch are from action.
    Voltage regulars I built, drive switching circuitry for pump, smoke generator, d/f and Morse lamp. I built also the cycle timers for d/f,Morse lamp and boiler fire lights.
    So I don’t get too mixed up with all the bits. The engine sound, smoke generator, boiler fire lights and water pump come on when prop runs forward or reverse, the d/f and Morse have each got a cycle timer of different times and run only when prop runs forward.
    Then the only things I need to switch are the lights on quad switch and single switch for the sound. Motor, rudder, anchor and quad switch are on joysticks so still have a spare channel at the moment.
    I would like to make my on quad switch and sound generators but can’t find circuit drawing anywhere.

    lamp
    sound generators
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Oceanic refit
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Sounds like it going to be an interesting refit, looking forward to it.
    Good idea about the printer just recently purchased one myself. Great useful item once you get the hang of designing the parts, plenty items can be made.
    Elsrickle

    printer
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    πŸ“ Electrics
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Various photos here of the electrics. Have fitted some electrical trunking down each side it helps keep the cables tidy. Have also fitted a 20amp 6volt auto relay which is operated by hidden switch on deck which controls all power to electrics. Small 2 amp fuse fitted to safeguard the ancillary equipment. For ease in binding have installed a switch in binding plug link then you don’t have to mess about plugging in and out the bind plug, it will be fitted opposite the fuse holder at top of battery compartment. On the top opening where superstructure fits have a 9 pin socket for electrics in superstructure as well as loose plug for d/f motor supply.( would have liked to fit pc board connectors but not sure what to get so went this route instead.)

    auto relay
    motor supply.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch Linkage
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi Martin you are dead right mark seven is in my mind, and a dual one pointing bow to stern one side wound clockwise the other anti clockwise
    Ian
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch detail
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Thanks glad you enjoyed it
    Ian
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    πŸ“ Winch Linkage
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    For the linkage system I used 8mm x 1mm brass sheet, the first piece from the servo I tapped a M2 hole at servo end with a flat washer between the servo this is then adjusted for free movement and secured with a lock nut. Second angle piece had both holes tapped M2 and again fitted with flat washer and fastened with locknut.
    The pivot piece I soldered a brass tube in centre as seen in photo also had to add spacer pillar of 10 mm to get correct height as a straight pull on pillar is required so no twist on pivot as with the magnet pull there is a lot of strain hence the reason for upgrading from micro servo to 3kg servo. This is fitted with thick washer and nyloc nut to allow free movement but not sloppy.
    The final part of the linkage is the most critical this is 2mm brass rod with a long thread for adjustment and ease of fitting, other end is 6mm dia x 2mm thick brass disc also tapped M2 and screwed onto the rod then soldered for for security. Next the two brass pillars one drilled for the rod the other solid both have 1mm shoulders and tapped M2 with the link approx 12mm between centres (may change according to servo movement) on top to move freely on pillars.
    The hole going through the motor mounting for the rod also tapped M2 with locknuts either side to keep secure. This must be exactly below the centre of the motor shaft to ensure a straight pull from the magnet drum.
    The operation of servo. When magnet is against chain drum and servo in neutral position inside pillar should be resting against disc on the rod. When servo moves to down position it should pull the the magnet totally free from the chain drum and allow the it to revolve freely the motor at this stage will also turn but if servo is fully over should not affect the free fall. When the servo is returned to neutral position the outside pillar will tap the disc on the rod and the magnet pull draws the magnet drum back home. Now when the servo goes to the raised position the linkage slides along but does not press on disc and the motor will be raising the anchor. Bother motor and servo are connected to same receiver plug. The speed controller allows inching of the anchor as it comes home. Adjusting servo movement on transmitter is not advisable as it will effect motor speed. Best to adjust linkage to get correct.
    Hope this is all clear any queries with this just ask and I will try to help.
    Elsrickle

    1mm brass sheet
    washer
    rod
    M2
    flat washer
    transmitter
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    πŸ“ Winch detail
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    As you can see this is made mostly with printer but am sure could be made with wood or plastic. The base has a slot 8mm wide by 5mm thick a hole 1.8mm goes through it and the sliding motor mount 1.5mm wire is used as guide and holds the mount in place the wire is also held in position with the small keeper block. The mount must be able to slide freely with no tight spots. Pictures show wire in base and on mount.
    Next chain drum and drive disc have 2.1mm hole all the way through for 2mm brass shaft the 3mm hole drill 10mm deep in drive drum at motor end. The motor then gets fitted on sliding platform. On drive drum face drill 2 holes 6mm Dia and 3mm deep, 180 degs apart for magnets. These are then glued in with a bed of epoxy adhesive as in photo, where the 2mm shaft goes through drill a recess 5mm Dia and 2mm deep for cable drum retaining ring. Also drill a hole 1.5mm Dia about 5mm from end of motor side of drum and tap for M2 grub screw for holding motor shaft. Now fix drum on to motor.
    At chain drum side cut a thin piece of tin and glue to face of drum this I used super glue and a mall brass nail fitted for a bit of extra security as in photo. Two 1mm holes drilled through the centre length of the drum very close to the outside diameter and clear of centre shaft. A piece of copper wire can be fed through one hole the chain link fed through the copper wire and the wire is fed through the other hole then the two twisted together or soldered to hold chain in centre of drum.
    Now 2mm brass rod is pushed through the drum ( I fitted 2 x 2mm flat washers at this point between mounting bracket and chain drum to ensure the drum did not rub on bracket) making sure sure the drum spins very freely the rod is pushed through the hole in the motor drum until it meets the motor shaft then push hard to slide the motor to end stop. Now slowly push motor forward towards the chain drum (fully open gap between drum 7-10mm) when fully home fit holding sleeve on brass rod at outside of bracket and tighten grub screw this should give the correct length for rod. Now push motor back to end and make sure shaft is still in motor drum. If not adjust until it is still in shaft Next push chain drum back against washers and shaft pushed towards motor make a saw cut in brass rod to mark drum position now remove shaft and make a brass ring to fit tightly on saw cut on shaft and solder then clean all solder from chain drum side of shaft refit and check drum still runs freely adjust as required when sure cut off brass rod as photo
    The base I made is 120 x 50mm x 5mm, chain drum 30mm x 25mm Dia, mountings were 28mm high x20mm wide. Will continue with linkage setup next. Any questions or ideas please feel free to let me know.

    printer
    flat washers
    adhesive
    washers
    rod
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Haven’t tried anything like that. But need to watch it might also slip when lifting the anchor if it has to pull through weed or anything while raising the anchor. I watch as it comes up as with the speed controller you can creep the anchor as soon as it’s in sight.
    Elsrickle
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    6 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi will give a more detailed story soon just looking out some old bits to photo to help explain better
    Elsrickle
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Anchor in boat
    7 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi guys will try and explain it in more detail will I keep it here or post in another area
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    πŸ“ Anchor in boat
    7 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    Here is video of anchor working from boat. Couldn’t get the two videos in same blog.
    18 November 2019
    ▢️

    boat
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    πŸ“ Anchor Winch
    7 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    This is now the the mark six version(previous versions scrapped) after various attempts I found the use of magnets for the clutch the most reliable. The drum with the chain has a metal disc made from top of soup tin as this was thin and light, superglued to drum with a small brass nail in to give extra security. A brass rod going through the chain drum also protrudes through into the drive drum for a short distance top keep things in alignment. A brass ring is also soldered to the brass rod to keep chain drum in firm position, the drive drum is also recessed for this ring enabling magnets to close up to metal ring. The servo is used to disengage the magnet allowing the anchor to free fall in lower position servo neutral position brings magnet back to chain drum holding anchor taut then when the servo is push forward it only slides on linkage and the motor turns to raise the anchor. The motor is a small geared motor of about 100 rpm and has a esc fitted for better control when inching home the anchor. Both magnet and servo I operate from tx stick. Care has to be taken to get the adjustment on the linkage correct and the chain drum must spin very freely. I also had to change the servo to a 3kg servo to beat the magnet pull and fit ball joints on linkage for better adjustment. My anchor was 4grams and that seemed the lightest the drum would move freely with. However the motor can lift 40 grams as that what I tested the lift at. Also did 100 non stop free fall drops and lifts to check reliability and everything was firm after my test.
    18 November 2019
    ▢️

    version
    ring
    stick
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    πŸ“ Mast lights
    7 months ago by Elsrickle ( Warrant Officer)
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    As I wanted to install lights in foremast and had trouble trying to drill the centre of the doweling in one piece. I decided to try a hollow section mast. This is in five sections with 4mm thin brass tubing a firm push fit. The length of these sections was determined by where the mast rings are positioned. Which enabled the joints to be hidden.The mast rings are glued only on the top side of the ring and a strengthener fitted below the deck to hold the mast in position. Lights are fitted and wired through the sections one wire used for ovolt of mast lights and one wire used for ovolt of deck lights. Wiring has two plugs at end for connecting to main cabling under the deck. The mast is then assembled and when installed all the rigging at the various rings will hold the mast firmly in position. This style of fitting means the mast can always be removed for lamp replacement if required. Although I made the mast on my printer it could always be done this way using short pieces of doweling which are easier to drill though the centre.

    ring
    lamp replacement
    printer
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