Hi Colin, Bondo is just automotive body filler! It's made by 3M corp. The Folks at Dumas swear by the stuff. It's ok smells a bit while it's drying though! Also there's a lot of elbow grease needed as well. 😲
OK, what is it they say. Measure trice cut once! Well after making the markings for the frames. Pieces of 1/8" squared spruce. Used as simulated hull frames. I noticed the marks were off. So had to remark in black marker. to tell where the new marks are going to be! Luckily after the model is painted. you won't see the marks.
The Bulwark is reinforced using 1/8" ABS plastic. It adds thickness and makes the boat more rigid! Also you have to put 1/8" squared wood pieces! This adds more thickness to the Bulwark. Gives it more to grab on to when you go to glue the caprail on!
Hi Doug, The Brooklyn Tug will be my last model from Dumas. Their QC is really bad, they give you a very well drawn blue print of the model. then give you sub standard components to build said model! I just noticed there's going to be a difference of 1/2 a millimeter. In port and starboard Bulwark thickness. This won't be seen to others. But I'll know it's there! I must press on..... I really wish they would have stayed with the fiberglass hulls!
The Keel on the Brooklyn. Has a gap from where it meets the hull. It's recommended to use Bondo. Which is a auto mobile body filler! There is a lot of sanding. Required after you Bondo the hull. When I built Serenity aka Jersey City by Dumas. I remember having to do the same procedure! The folks at Dumas. Say the Bondo won't crack. Well mine did, it was a small crack. which I used zap-a-gap on!
First I had to draw lines from. One corner to the next. This was done to get the center of the block! But as I don't have a drill press. The hole I drilled is a fraction off! The tube that goes through the block. Comes out of the hull in the right location! 😁 I then glued it in place. And ran some polyester resin to hold the block in position.
Hi Dave I know what my problem is. I was suppose to place the prop shaft. 1/4 out of the hull, I have accidently placed it 5 1/6th of an inch! So the shaft is a 1/16th to far out! There is no way I can correct this at this point.... I placed 2oz of resin towards the stern. To hold the prop shaft in place. And made sure no water gets in the hull! From know on I will measure everything twice!
It's said necessity is the mother of invention. Well, I looked at the top of zap-a-gap bottle top. Saw it was shaped like a 1/6" nylon washer. Drilled through the center and presto! One nylon thrust washer, made up! As soon as I have a chance. I'll go to the local Hardware store. And I will get some stainless steal washers! Thank you, all for your valuable in put. It is well appreciated!
Thanks Rowen, Doug, I don't want the prop shaft to grind against the bearing. Now I realize this! I shall try my best to find a washer that's the proper size. that's half as thick as the nylon washer.👍 Or can I grind the nylon washer. to half it's thickness?
The rudder is in place! I saw where Dumas used a cast skeg for the rudder! I think they should have kept using the cast skeg! Now they give a strip of brass. that you must bend to shape. And drill into the keel! I don't like this at all. should be ok I hope!
Hi Steve, I know your going to have a good time putting her together. Don't forget to document it with pictures. And a video give or take 1 to 2 yrs from know! Ed PS. If I get another boat. I think the wife will kick me out! I showed her a picture of the HMS HOOD. she loved it until I asked won't to get one!
Hi Dave M, The pond I go to is quite clear of debris! I shouldn't run in to anything I hope! Thanks for the Idea! about the padding and brass rods! I just wish Dumas would have made the rudder already made! But, like I said I'll order the rudder parts. and give it another go.👍
Hi Doug, I will do better, but for now that rudder will do! I know I Know bad solder job! I'll do a better job once I order replacement parts! For now it's just to see how she'll look. And to find proper positioning of the rudder!
So, the rudder is completed! It's made up of thin ABS plastic with a brass core. The rudder has to be cut out of a sheet of ABS plastic You are suppose to laminate the rudder. I found this task a bit difficult. Because both halfs are the same size! What the folks at Dumas recommend. Is to overlay one half over the other! Then glue the seam, with out gluing your fingers! It's mentioned that the pilot house has a thin film. You must remove prier to assembly Well, I found out the hard way so does the Rudder! Dave M, I will be ordering a new rudder and rudder post. once I have a better torch. I will do a better job at soldering the rudder together!😉
Hi Dave M, Thanks for the advice. I couldn't create enough heat. or had any flux to help the solder flow! I was using a pen torch, not a lot of heat behind it! Will keep an eye on it! Had to make do with what I have on hand! Will have to buy myself a real torch for such projects. As for your tugs wheelhouse 6mm short, OUCH! Thank you though advice well taken! I find one of the hardest steps in my build was the rudder!
After grinding the flange that's 1/4" high. Took all day long! grind here, sand there! False keel is now in place. A bit of bondo to fill the gaps! Lots of sanding to do! there's a big difference between the fiberglass and the ABS. Lots more work to do on the ABS hull!
Unlike the fiberglass hull. that use to come with the Brooklyn. The ABS hull has to be trimmed down (Flange) to the hull! After this you'll put a 3/8" x 1/4" piece of plastic on the hull! This will then become the keel! Be careful not to go into the hull. While your trimming the hull!