Members Harbour
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Thames Bawley
Kathryn is a Thames Bawley fishing boat completed by me in 2020. It has detachable keels of different lengths and weights, plus several suits of sails which can be readily changed.
flaxbybuck
6 months ago
1 Attribute
3 Photos
19 Likes
Sea Queen
Purchased from a deceased member in 2013 I spent many hours refurbishing this classic. Two lots of 10 NiMH cells power the MFA Torpedo 850 at a bit more than scale speed for the whole morning cruising. The crew look a bit surly but the dog is cheerful enough, and turns his head on demand.
flaxbybuck
6 months ago
8 Attributes
1 Photo
8 Likes
Lorette - Police Launch PL502
I managed to intercept just before this hull was going to the tip. Originally made by a friend with help from his father some 50 years ago, I transformed this Vic Smeed design first into a work boat, then into a police launch which is how I run it now. It took a year to get all the running gear and electrics right !
flaxbybuck
6 months ago
8 Attributes
4 Photos
9 Likes
SPT441 and SPT409
Between 2017 and 2019 I made the Deans Sea Plane Tender SPT441 and concurrently made an identical plank on frame model which I called SPT409. Plans were prepared using a number of sources (which varied a little from Deans), and the build progressed with both boats, side by side, checking comparative weights as progress was made. A Pro 400 motor was fitted to SPT441, whilst SPT409 has a brushless motor. At first glance the two boats appear identical, but the moment the superstructure is removed the differences can be seen.
flaxbybuck
9 months ago
2 Attributes
1 Photo
9 Likes
Felix
Felix is a Krick model of a Hamburg harbour launch, a number of which survive to this day. It is the first model boat I made in recent years (2012/13) after a break from model making of 50 years.
flaxbybuck
9 months ago
8 Attributes
2 Photos
11 Likes
Speedwell
I started building this auxiliary ketch when I was 13, see photo. It is scratch built from balsa using the two shelf principle, finished with two or more layers of doped tissue to give the skin more strength. Originally it was steered with the help of a simple Braine gear but over the years I have updated various features and it now has radio control. I will post details of the construction and adaptations in due course.
flaxbybuck
9 months ago
8 Attributes
2 Photos
11 Likes
Albert IV
Albert is a pond yacht made by an uncle in 1926 and passed onto me in 1959. I have carried out three major restorations/refits since then, hence the name. The last was in 2018/19 and the most challenging. I will post items about the work shortly.
In 2009 I rescued Albert from the loft, and this is how she looked. Saggy red sails, and a little unloved.
flaxbybuck
9 months ago
1 Attribute
Members Blogs
3 Posts
5 Followers
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Speedwell - auxiliary ketch
How should I start to tell you about Speedwell ? I was 12 when I made her and the accompanying photo shows me with her some months later in 1960. My interest in model boats was launched in 1958 when I started to experiment with balsa and balsa cement. I subscribed to Model Maker magazine which gave me an appetite for making boats properly, so after 'messing about' with prototypes I settled down to make an auxiliary ketch. No plans. No instructions. No mentor. Just me and my juvenile brain !
The boat was made deck down using the two shelf principle. A number of bulkheads were shaped and glued on, then the 'shelf' glued in place. For those not familiar with this method, the 'shelf' is a horizontal member that takes the approximate form of the boat at the water-line. A vertical keel member was shaped that fills the whole space from shelf to keel. Bulkheads were then glued between the shelf and each side of the keel piece. Sheet balsa was then attached except at the bows where a solid block was used.
The sides of the boat were prepared, then covered with two layers of doped tissue before painting.
A piece of galvanised sheet was bolted to the keel piece to form the keel, and a lead weight later bolted on.
A Kako No4 electric motor was mounted on the underside of a hatch with direct drive to the propellor via a simple coupling. Batteries were two lots of 5 U2s (D cells in today's terminology), and I made a pendulum switch that turned the motor on when the yacht was becalmed and upright. Steering was with a simple Braine type gear made from an old school set-square.
Masts and spars were simple dowel, and the first set of sails were made by Mum using old bedsheets.
Taking Speedwell sailing was quite an exercise in itself. I made a box to mount on the rear carrier of my bicycle, and cycled around 8 miles to reach a boating pond on Wanstead Flats. Sometimes it arrived in one piece !
Fast forward 40 years and after a move north of 200 miles and Speedwell had not only survived, thanks to that box, but had been given a new set of sails, this time blue.
More later.
flaxbybuck
6 months ago
Recent Posts
๐ฌ Re: Dec 5 2023 update
2 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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I am intrigued by the 'dickie seat' in front. I have not seen one like this on a boat before. ๐
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๐ Fitting deck to FG hull
5 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Good morning Les, and welcome to the world of model boating !
There are two basic ways of attaching deck as shown in my sketches 1 and 2.
If you are using ply for your deck I would recommend method 1 because the edges of the ply can be fully sealed to prevent moisture getting in. First make a card pattern for your deck. Keep adjusting it by cutting bits off or adding bits until your pattern is as perfect as you can achieve. Only then should you transfer this to your ply and cut it out. Before putting it into place I suggest gluing blocks to the hull, all the way around, onto which the deck will sit. You should wash the complete hull with detergent to remove any traces of releasing agent, then rinse and dry it. The blocks can be glued on with epoxy. Give them a day to set before gluing the ply deck into place, again using epoxy.
You can use the same method to make patterns for your bulkheads before cutting them out and gluing into place.
When using wood in a boat remember that water WILL get everywhere so make sure you paint or seal absolutely everything that is in the boat. And I mean all the undersides or internal parts that you will not have access to once the boat is complete. With the deck you might consider marking on the underside where the blocks will be, mask off those areas and paint or varnish the rest before gluing it into place.
Good luck with your build. If you need any further guidance just ask. Yiou will get plenty of help on this site. ๐
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๐ Modello RC scala 1/60, di piroscafo armato a goletta, liberamente ispirato alle cannoniere classe US
6 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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I'm so impressed with your work and the model you are creating. This is truly a museum quality boat. Do you have a maritime museum lined up ready to receive it ? You really should. ๐
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๐ฌ Re: Rc kayak
6 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Oh Wow ! Quite brilliant. To say 'well done' is such an understatement, but you should win a prize for this. ๐
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๐ Sealing Balsa & Ply
7 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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My preference is for oil based paints.
Prime with ordinary wood primer (oil based), rub down with fine sandpaper and give a second coat. Then go ahead with undercoats, gloss coats etc.
OR, after the first primer, rub down then go ahead with spray car primer (Eg Halfords grey or red)
OR, prime with Halfords spray car primer, rub down, give second coat primer, rub down, then top coats.
If you prefer to use acrylic paints I suggest watering down the first coat, then rub down, then second coat (also watered down). I don't know how car primer will take to this.
OR, just varnish, rub down, varnish, rub down, repeat, repeat, repeat.
Hope this helps
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๐ Inga IV sails
9 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Sail making is not so difficult, but first you need to decide what you want to achieve.
If you are looking for total replication of the real thing then you need to study plans and photographs to determine the features you wish to replicate. Some will be too small to bother with whilst others might be a notable feature that you feel should be done.
On the other hand you may choose to dispense with complete realism for a more practical solution that will enable you to sail the yacht without undue difficulty. This approach might involve just a single sail servo that operates all the sails.
You might opt for an 'in-between' solution that couples the most important features with ease of operation.
The bottom line is - who do you want to satisfy ? If it is yourself then you have free reign to do whatever works for you, and whatever you feel is OK. ๐
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๐ split keel at 100 years
11 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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The best half hours tuition I had was learning how to use a sewing machine. ๐
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๐ฌ Re: Typhoon Finished!!!
18 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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You've made a lovely job of this but oh dear, you really must get out more often !
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๐ Sea Plane Tenders 10
25 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Here I am preparing and painting the top-sides and superstructures of both boats. I cannot over emphasise the need for good masking when preparing to paint. Overspray can get to places you wouldn't imagine, and paint can track under the edge of ordinary masking tape. So use good quality masking tape that you know will not bleed, and thoroughly mask off everywhere you are not painting.
The motor covers are easily made and painted, the rubbing strips being done last.
With the superstructures made and painted I then turned my attention to manning the boats, using a mix of cheap Chinese figures and a more expensive British make. You can tell the difference. Painting the figures needed a large magnifying glass, good work light and tiny paint brushes. The smallest has just one bristle ! This comes in handy when painting the eyes. You can see from the pictures that I have not yet mastered the art of painting faces, but I will keep practicing .
Adding detail to the superstructure is shown next with items like lifebelts, lights, horns etc going on. The lifebelts were made from large rubber O rings which just happen to be the right size. Rigging to the masts was deliberately kept quite simple with just rear stays to the back of the cabin and a single forestay. These are all made of black elastic cord (another delivery from China) and tiny brass hooks made using cane-crimping pliers. The masts both have a brass ferrule glued on, with corresponding brass tube mountings. This enables the masts and rigging to be easily removed to permit removal of the superstructure.
Next time, finishing touches.
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๐ Steam Drifter
26 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Looks an interesting project Terry.
Good luck
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๐ Thank you Model-Boats.com & members during a rough time!
26 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Glad to hear you are getting better Lew. Having a hobby or pastime can be very beneficial in aiding recovery.
Whilst in hospital for 9 weeks I did not have access to the internet and felt quite cut off. As soon as I was home I was able to contact people again and better still, continue with my boat modelling. The hobby is so diverse that it embraces solo home activity as well as social activity outdoors, and this is what is so satisfying.
Best wishes Lew
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๐ฌ Re: Finishing touches RTTL 2755 finally complete
1 month ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Well done Rogal. A real tour de force. ๐
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๐ Came across this Fairey Swordsman
1 month ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Hi Schmango, the advice from Zooma re attaching spray rails is spot on. Wood becomes easier to work when it is wet, and/or when hot. So dipping in hot water works well, or steaming. Then gently bend the wood and hold it in place, eg. with pins knocked into a baseboard. Don't expect too much ! You can always re-wet or re-steam the wood and bend it into a tighter radius. Ideally the wood should already be shaped to the curve of the boat before you start to glue it on, but you can always apply a little more pressure when actually gluing. You will find that as the wood goes around the tighter curve of the bow it not only needs to be bent into the correct curve, but a twist is required. This is best achieved when wetting or steaming and shaping on the baseboard. Use a small adjustable spanner to hold the wood at the bow end and turn it through 90 degrees. You will have to hold the spanner in that position with a weight or clamp.
Putting on the chine and spray rails was the worst job when making a hull recently. I was jolly pleased when it was all done ! ๐
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๐ฌ Re: Land yacht
1 month ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Great fun JB. What a wonderful way to use an empty car park. Love it !๐
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๐ A challenge
1 month ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Looks good. Have fun ๐
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๐ฌ Re: Schooner Kamanik
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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She's beautiful Zbip and sails really well.
As a fellow schooner sailor I am interested to know how you have arranged your sheets such that your jib sails are able to overlap. I have not been able to get sufficient slack on the windward side sheet. In consequence the clew of the sail is held back by this sheet and prevents the sail from setting properly.
A sketch of your sheeting arrangement would be helpful ? ๐
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๐ฌ Re: Bluebird of Chelsea
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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I really enjoy seeing boats being built plank by plank, quite literally with a plank on frame model. Whilst starting off with a Tupperware hull is easy and convenient it is no substitute in my mind for making the hull yourself. Not only do you know every nook and cranny, and every slight glitch that had you awake at nights, but you get a heightened sense of achievement and satisfaction, especially when first showing it the water and subjecting it to comments from fellow club members or onlookers.
This particular craft, Bluebird of Chelsea is so well known that it demands a very high standard of workmanship, and Chris, you have risen to the challenge. She looks bloomin' marvellous ! ๐
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๐ฌ Re: Kingfisher (Slipper Launch)
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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What a lovely looking boat, and so beautifully finished. Any pics of her on the water yet ? ๐
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๐ Question of the Day?
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Likewise Doogle.
The trouble is my memory ain't what it used to be. I used to be certain but now I'm not so sure. Too often my memory plays tricks on me, usually at times of maximum embarrassment. ๐
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๐ฌ Re: (Working Vessel) Wellard
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Well done Chris. Boat modelling to please yourself. Just as it should be ! I love the look of it. ๐
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๐ Rescue mission
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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All looking spick and span ! ๐
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๐ Rattle can SALE
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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The York (Huntington) branch is handy for me. Thanks for the tip ๐
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๐ Sea Plane Tenders 9
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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At this point I was able to progress the two boats side by side.
These pictures show the hulls being prepared for primer by masking off other areas, and in the last picture, after further masking off, application of red paint to the hull bottoms.
Paint used was Halfords grey and red primer spray paints (rattle cans).
After a little practice I learnt how to avoid unwanted blobs of paint. The trick seemed to be to (a) warm the paint by immersing in hot water for a few minutes and (b) rattling it well and (c) starting and ending each pass beyond the boat. Any blobs tend to come at the beginning or end of a pass so start and finish beyond the subject. Then (d) apply a number of light passes (say 3 or 4), pausing a few moments between each pass. Then wait for the paint to dry before applying further passes. Repeat this until happy with the result.
With these small items (including the hulls which are quite small) I put them on a sheet of newspaper. They could then easily be turned by spinning the paper around.
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๐ฌ Re: RAF rescue, target towing launch
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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I have never seen a rudder servo mounted 'upsidedown' before Rogal. Was this arrangement indicated by the plans ? Surely it makes connecting up a bit of a fiddle ? ๐
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๐ Question of the Day?
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Whether to swim around the yellow buoy or stay away ? That is the question.๐
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๐ Rttl2755 maiden voyage Video
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Superb boat Rogal. Looks even better on the water.
I'm quite envious ! ๐
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๐ Rttl2755 maiden voyage
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Wow Rogal, she's a real cracker ! Good job. ๐
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๐ DF65 easy leak test
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Without removing any patches or mast. Very easy . Very quick. Super successful.
Remove drain stopper. Insert tube and blow gently into hull. Brush soapy water over hull. Leaks show up where bubbles form.
Rinse off.
Job done !๐
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๐ DF65 easy leak test
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Without removing any patches or mast. Very easy . Very quick. Super successful.
Remove drain stopper. Insert tube and blow gently into hull. Brush soapy water over hull. Leaks show up where bubbles form.
Rinse off.
Job done !๐
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๐ Dragon Force 65 waterproofing
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง flaxbybuck (

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Thank you Trident73 for your suggestion about testing a hull for leaks. Your idea of blowing into the drain hole whilst covering the hull with soapy water worked a treat. It was so easy, simple and quick to do with immediate results.
In my case I discovered leaks around the three grommets at the stern, and at the attachment point for the halyard.
I would recommend this method to anyone. ๐
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