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    flaxbybuck
    Member Stats
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    Member No.#6407
    Registered๐Ÿ“…8th Nov 2021
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…28th Mar 2024
    City๐Ÿ“Knaresborough
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
    Genderโ™‚๏ธMale
    Age๐Ÿ‘ถ77
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ593
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    ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡น AlessandroSPQR ( Captain)
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    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ronald ( Admiral)
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    About
    Design, make and sail model motor boats and sailing craft.
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    ๐Ÿ“ Death of a member.
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 74 Views ยท 9 Likes
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    What devastating news. My condolences to you and your family.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn, a Thames Bawley - 9
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 42 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 1 Comment
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    All about the masts, boom, gaff, sails and standing rigging. The standing rigging are those parts of the rigging such as shrouds, stays etc that may be set up permanently.

    Having prepared the masts and spars the next job was to assemble them, add the necessary fittings and fixtures and then to add the standing rigging.

    Photos 1,2 and 3 show the mast foot set into the cabin roof; the cabin chimney; the boom and gooseneck with parrel line and beads, and the elastic kicking strap. Also, the black wire seen crossing the deck from the hatch and heading up the mast is the aerial wire for a 27MHz receiver. The gooseneck (or jaws) is made from ply which is slotted and glued into the boom. The parrel line and beads (chrome was not the finish I really wanted) hold the boom onto the mast whilst allowing it to move freely. The gaff is arranged in the same way but is finished off at an angle where it meets the mast. (photos 5,6 and 7)

    Photos 4 and 9 show the chain plates and shrouds. The cord chosen for the shrouds is nylon. Nylon cord stretches and this enables tension to be exerted by use of bowsies. Should non-stretch cord have been used then bottle screws would be needed to tension the shrouds, and this is a much trickier job to get right than using bowsies on a stretchy cord. In addition, bottle screws are many times more expensive than home made bowsies. Bowsies for the shrouds were made from black 4 x 5mm strip nylon. Smaller bowsies of clear perspex are used for outhauls and uphauls which are under much less tension.

    Photos 5, 6 and 7 also show the arrangement where the topmast is supported at the head of the mainmast.

    Photos 8, 11, 12 and 13 show the arrangements used on the bowsprit, the boom, top of the topmast, and peak of the gaff. There are three sets of shrouds, the foremost passing through the spreader and on to the top of the topmast. The other two sets are attached to the top of the mainmast.

    In photo 14 I have shown the various screw eyes used. Mostly I have used the 10 x 5 size, but where there is little stress or tension I have used the smaller sizes. In all cases I drill a 0.5mm pilot hole first. There might appear to be a lot of screw eyes in some of the spars, but each one has a purpose.

    Lastly, for the eagle eyed amongst you, photo 10 shows two cleats attached to the port gunwhale used for tying off jib halyards.

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 8
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 47 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    You will have gathered that I spent a lot of time planning how everything should be; where it should go; its size; the sequence of work to be done; how I wanted it to look; the compromises made; how it should operate; the convenience etc etc. That's not to say I was happy with things first time around. On the contrary, some items were made and re made several times before I was satisfied.

    Working to the sail plan (see photo 1) I decided which sails I would like, and which would not be needed. Throughout this build I was mindful that this was to be a sailing model rather than an accurate and detailed model. I wanted to be able to attach sails or remove them easily at the pondside, and to accommodate different wind speeds opted for two sizes of mainsail and headsail; a staysail, one jib and a flying jib, also a large staysail that would take the place of the last three sails.

    The mast is made from 18mm dowel; the topmast, boom, bowsprit, and gaff from 12mm dowel and the spreader from 6mm dowel. Dowels were first shaped and smoothed, then stained and varnished. (photo 2)

    The foot of the mast was shaped (photo 4) and in the bottom of the hull a 'mound' of car body filler created with a matching socket. This prevents the mast from turning or swivelling whilst in use.

    A wooden ring was made and slid down the mast where it was glued into place. Beneath this and reaching down to the deck I glued vertical timbers encircling the mast with brackets supporting the ring. This ring supports the jaws of the boom. (Photos 5 and 6).

    In photo 7 can be seen the cleats and mouldings below the ring for tying off various sheets and ropes. The cleats are made by shaping a long piece of wood to create a shallow 'C' section, then sawing off each cleat to the desired thickness, and finally sanding to shape. They are attached to the mast with both glue (PVA), and screw eyes. I use these because they are available in very small sizes, are simpler to screw into place than normal screws, and also provide an additional eye to which things can be attached. Hidden from view is an 'O' ring on the mast that prevents water getting into the hull.

    Photo 3 shows some of the sails laid out. Sails are made of cotton (old bed sheets I believe). The material was first dyed, the light colour using tea, the dark brown using Dylon fabric dye. Full size patterns for all sails were drawn up. From these drawings patterns were made of stiff paper, the actual size of the finished sail. After marking out the material was cut using a steel straight edge and sharp knife. These 'proofs' were then checked against the drawings before proceeding.

    The first operation on the sewing machine was to cut out and sew on the corner reinforcing patches. Narrow bias binding (5/8" I believe) was sewn onto all sides and the corners trimmed off. Small eyelets were then put into each corner.

    ๐Ÿ“ Convention for displaying a model Boat
    13 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 34 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Wow Colin, that photo of a Fairey in flight. Wonderful ! ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Large lipo
    14 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 20 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Thank you all for responding to this subject, and especially to Alessandro - you must have spent quite a time preparing your response.

    From the nature of the responses received I form the impression that there is a basic need for definitive advice on this topic that can be readily accessible to all modelers. I'm not sure of the best place for this. Any thoughts ?

    Having spent a considerable sum on the battery, ESC and motor I feel it best to install the best protection, so I will insert a fuse between battery and ESC, and three fuses between ESC and motor. Fuse ratings will follow advice given, initially using lower rated fuses. As you say, they are cheap enough.

    Again, thank you all for your help ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Large lipo
    15 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 27 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Thanks for your suggestions so far.

    I have now put all the information I have onto a sketch, attached, and my questions are:

    1. Would you put a fuse between the battery and ESC ?
    2. If so , what size ?
    3. Would you put 1 or 3 fuses between the ESC and motor ?
    4. If so, what size ?

    I am very interested to know your thoughts on this subject.
    Thanks ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Large lipo
    17 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 55 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    I am in the process of making a 1m long power boat which will be driven by a large brushless motor and a big lipo battery. The motor is is a 4240- 740, and the battery a 5 cell, 5000mAh. This is the first time I have used a large brushless and a big lipo, and I would like readers' suggestions or recommendations regarding (a) whether a fuse should be incorporated in the circuit and, (b) whether to include a voltmeter. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Connectors
    17 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 15 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Thanks for your reply CB90.
    After carefully measuring the diameter of the plugs again I ordered a number of the 3.5mm size. Thankfully this proved to be correct, and I have now soldered the females onto the ESC leads. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Automatic Bilge Pump for RC Boats
    18 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 59 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Nice one Lew. This is just the sort of thing I wish to install in one of my boats. At present the pump is operated by a switch controlled by the transmitter, and it is complete guess work as to whether the bilges need pumping or not. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 7
    19 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 42 Views ยท 4 Likes ยท 1 Comment
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    My assistant in filming the operation of the sail winch is Kathryn, after whom the boat was named. Please see the attached videos.

    These videos show the sail winch in operation, but without sails, just the sheets that operate the sails. The sheet emerging just astern of the hatch is for the mainsail. That emerging off to one side of the hatch is for the staysail and jibs.

    The 'closed circuit' or 'loop' is what we call the cord that starts at the sail winch, passes along the length of the 'rack', around a pulley and back to the winch. The winch has two sections. The outward leg is attached to the lower section whilst the inward leg is attached to the upper section.

    Watch for the knot on the jib sheet appearing. When it reaches a nearby screweye it stops. At this position the both sheets are fully extended. When the sheets are hauled in you will see the knot on the mainsail sheet appear and travel up to the sail winch when it stops. At this point both sheets are fully inhauled.

    The travel distance of the sheets is about 30cm. That distance is enough for the mainsail to be let out fully, but more than sufficient for the staysail and jibs. So their sheets pass through an eye or pulley on the clew of each sail and lead to an anchoring point back on the opposite gunwale.

    If you would like to see detail of this arrangement please let me know and I can post a futuyre blog on the subject.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 'Fairacre', Broads Cruiser
    20 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 30 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Congratulations on a great restoration JB. She looks beautiful, and a boat for which you can feel rightly proud. And I do like the curtains; they seem so fitting and of the period. Sometimes it is the small details that really set off a boat. ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜‰

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    ๐Ÿ“ Day Dreamer gets a newly painted hull
    20 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 52 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Nice work Ronald ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 6
    20 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 29 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Hi Alessandro, thanks for watching the video, and I'm glad you were able to see it. Yes, I could increase the rudder travel but I have found the present set up to be quite satisfactory.

    The system for controlling the sails on Kathryn is with a closed circuit (I refer to it as 'a loop') It has advantages and disadvantages when compared with the system you are using. One advantage is that slack sheets never get tangled with the winch. One disadvantage is that the length of the loop is limited by the length of the boat; in a small boat it may not be workable.

    I will see if my filming assistant (galley mate) is available to help me film the sail control system in operation. Watch this space. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 6
    21 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 57 Views ยท 8 Likes ยท 6 Comments
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    How the sheeting loop and rudder operate.

    Pic 1
    shows the general layout as seen inside the hatch opening. Top left is the switch; mid left is the receiver (This is an old Acoms 27Mhz) with protruding crystal carrier; immediately beneath is a brass tube which carries the main sheet towards the stern (just to keep it out of harms way); mid left is the rudder servo and arm; then to its right is the sail winch, drum and servo (Kingmax Sail Winch Servo, 4 turn); the sheeting loop can be seen passing around the drum and going forward where it passes around a large pulley; the battery pack is stowed in an alloy box and neatly goes into the slot in the wooden 'rack' ; at the bottom (disappearing from view)can be seen the sheet which serves the staysail and all the jib sails.

    Pic 2
    much the same as the first picture but slightly different angle. To the left the main sheet is seen emerging through a sheeting eye (from P J Sails). The rudder servo and arm are seen with the cord leading away to the tiller through saw cuts in the top edge of the coaming.

    Pic 3
    Shows the battery pack which goes into an alloy box mounted beneath the centre of the sheeting rack.

    Pic 4
    Shows the battery pack slotted into place. The leads can be tucked away. At the top the jib sheet can be seen emerging from a sheeting eye (from P J Sails). The cord is terminated in a loop to which all sheets from individual jibs and staysail are attached.

    Pic 5
    This is a video showing the rudder winch in operation.

    A little more explanation of the sheeting loop. A knot is tied in the cord each side of the loop such that when one knot reaches the end of its travel, the other knot does so at the other end, ie. one ends up near the forward pulley whilst the other ends up near the servo drum. The main sheet is attached to one knot and the jib sheet to the other. When above deck the jib sheet ends in a loop to which each of the sheets for all the forward sails are attached. So for example, if only a staysail is in use then just one sheet is attached to the loop. If a staysail, jib and flying jib are in use then three sheets are attached to the loop. Adjustment to trim each sail is achieved at the sail end of each sheet.

    I will give more detailed information and pictures of the sails, standing rigging and running rigging in future posts.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 5
    22 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 16 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    Mike, your winch system looks beautifully engineered, not like my amateurish attempt !

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 5
    22 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 28 Views ยท 9 Likes ยท 3 Comments
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    Designing the sheeting loop was perhaps the most important single item beneath the deck. It needed very careful planning to make the travel distance on the loop as long as possible whilst maintaining sufficient space beneath it to mount the winch servo. I also wanted the facility to remove the whole thing as easily as possible, and this was done by locating the front end in a 'socket', and the rear end retained with a single screw.

    Careful calculations were made to determine the travel distance required, whether the winch should be 2,4 or 6 turns, and placement of the nylon grommets through which the sheets emerge above the deck. The servo is mounted on slotted holes so the right tension on the sheeting loop can be achieved.

    The rudder servo is also mounted to the underside of the deck using two strips of aluminium. Operation of the tiller is by thin cord which is led through screw eyes back to the servo arm. The cord passes through shallow saw cuts in the hatch coaming immediately beneath the hatch itself.

    Location of the 5 x AA battery pack took a while to sort out. None of the locations shown in the photos was used. Eventually I made an aluminium box which is slung beneath the sheet loop platform which enables me to insert or remove the pack through the central slot in the platform. A switch is attached to the hatch coaming, and covered with a piece of latex glove to make it watertight. The receiver is also mounted on the coaming with velcro.

    Detailed design of the sheeting arrangements was done after all the mast, spars, rigging and sails were planned.

    ๐Ÿ“ Connectors
    24 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 4 Likes ยท 4 Comments
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    My latest Turnigy brushless motor, a 4240, 740 has banana type plugs moulded on to the three leads which connect to the ESC. See picture. The pins of these plugs are 3mm diameter.
    I would like to know what these are. Are they 3mm bullet connectors ? I need to know what they are so I can buy the other half, otherwise I will be snipping them off and using a Wago connector block instead.
    Thanks for your help ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Still Needed Some Work
    25 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 18 Views ยท 2 Likes
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    First you show us a picture of a most enviable workshop, now a picture of a fantastic testing tank. Wow, what a set up !!! ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: ESC relocation
    25 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 70 Views ยท 1 Like
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    You've got enough spare to knit yourself a new jumper ! ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rudder mechanism
    26 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 56 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    I am interested to know how you get on with the rudder configuration. Generally the principle to follow for a rudder set-up is for both arms (that on the servo and the rudder yolk) to be parallel, and for the linkage to be at right angles (90 degrees). Whilst this is the ideal set-up, other configurations will work, but with perhaps more steerage to port than to starboard (eg)
    When you are on the water let us know how your boat steers.
    Good luck ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging
    27 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 0 Likes
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    Thanks for your response Mike.
    On a number of occasions I have threaded a hole through a plate hoping it would be strong enough and each time I have had to put a nut on the back of the plate to provide sufficient thread turns to give the required strength. It all depends on how many Newtons you are dealing with ! ๐Ÿ˜‰

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Rigging
    29 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 41 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    I so like your attention to detail in making these fittings.
    Will there be sufficient thread in the 1.5mm brass sheet to resist the tension that will be put on the fittings ?
    Keep up the good work. It is looking superb. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 4
    29 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 41 Views ยท 11 Likes
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    This section of pictures is slightly out of order because prior to this stage I spent some time designing the internal installations. These comprised the sheeting loop, the operating sail servo, the rudder servo and a battery box.

    To start with the whole installation had to clear the keel box and struts. These can be seen in the last picture. In this picture the interior has also been treated with flow coat. Not only does this provide a waterproof coating but the light colour makes it much easier to see the interior when working on it , making adjustments or simply baling out.

    The first three pictures show work on the deck progressing with the main hatch, the forward hatch (which is fixed) and the hole for the mast. The foot of the mast is shaped with two flat sides so when it is in place in a socket created in resin in the bottom of the boat it is not able to turn.

    The old lead keelson was removed, the vacant space filled with wood with a slot left into which a keel box is fitted. The box is made of sheet aluminium, superglued together and clad with fibreglass. (see photo). This was then secured in place with car body filler and fibreglass. Later the box was further strengthened with internal struts (see last photo). Externally the box projects to the same depth as the keel so when viewed from the side it cannot be seen.

    Where the original brass strip chain plates emerge on the boat sides I attached wooden blocks to more closely resemble the real construction. These blocks come in very useful to support the boat in place on the carrier/stand which was simply made from scrap.

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 3
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 45 Views ยท 9 Likes
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    After doing a bit of research into Thames Bawleys I discovered they were built in a number of different lengths, and this enabled me to adopt a scale of 1:16 for my boat. Once this was settled it allowed me to progress with the build.

    The original deck was in a terrible state, and totally unrepairable, so I removed it completely whilst retaining sections of it around the gunwales. The new deck would then sit on these sections. The bowsprit supports (the two vertical members) were left in situ, so I decided to have a join in the deck at this point, the small section forward being fixed in place, whilst the main deck piece was planned to be screwed down and removable. This was to allow access to the inside of the hull which would otherwise only be accessible through the hatch.

    After making a card pattern for the deck and adjusting it for a close fit the new ply deck was cut out and the edges smoothed. Screw positions were marked on the ply, holes drilled and countersunk. The planking was then drawn on using a black pencil. A simplified (ie. rectangular) hatch was then cut out and coamings glued into place, with supporting battens on the underside of the deck.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: PUFFER by Caldercraft
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 38 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    A good purchase, and a model with plentiful detail. If it sails as good as it looks you have got yourself a winner ! ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Sea rover cabin cruiser
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 78 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi Schumango,
    I really like your choice of colours, and the white coach stripe on the chine and around the superstructure really sets it off. I congratulate you on doing this. I know just how tricky it can be. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Crew, People, and Detailed Interiors
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 71 Views ยท 8 Likes
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    Hi Lew, I enjoyed your post, and seeing the pictures of your various figures and interiors. Too often I see models of open boats that have no one at the helm (or wheel) which, in my view, detracts from the boat.

    Interesting to see that you also use Bruder models occasionally. They are available in the UK where the current price is around ยฃ13. The scale is 1:16 which suits some of my boats.

    Sourcing figures is problematic at best. If you are prepared to pay ยฃ55 - ยฃ60 per figure there are one or two companies that will make accurate facsimiles of whatever subject you choose. My pocket does not stretch to this so I look for figures elsewhere, sometimes even China !

    I agree that model boats look better for having figures on board, even if they are Ken or Barbie dolls, or Dr.Who fugures. ๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Kathryn - A Thames Bawley - 2
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 20 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Yes Andy, lots of progress pics to come ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Kathryn - A Thames Bawley - 2
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 33 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Hi Andy,
    Scale is 1:16

    ๐Ÿ˜‰

    ๐Ÿ“ Kathryn - A Thames Bawley - 2
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง flaxbybuck ( Commander)
    โœง 48 Views ยท 8 Likes ยท 4 Comments
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    Amongst the model boat magazines from Ernie was a copy of Marine Modelling International, February 2010 in which Barrie Griffin had written an article about construction of a Thames Bawley model, including some very helpful plans, diagrams and photographs of his model during construction.

    Further research brought to light other plans and sketches which helped me plan what to do with the boat hull, and formulate the sail plan.

    From the outset I intended that this would be a sailing model, and that accuracy would therefore be compromised in order that it would sail in different wind strengths. One such compromise was the addition of a boom, where the real boats had no boom but the mainsail was loose footed.

    The photographs show the respective plans and sketches studied.



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