Doug,

The smoke is using "oil" as the smoke liquid - not sure I like the smell - it's pretty awful - gave me a headache within minutes - long term the model will reek even if the effect does look good.

I will be looking for an alternative I think but it will have to do for now...

Jonathan _._

Smoke fluid is "scotch mist"😂

Funnel smoke production testing - not bad for an 850mm stack (all I could find for the video!)

https://youtu.be/S6VtC3Un9B4

https://youtu.be/S6VtC3Un9B4

🔗

▶️

Just communicated with my Rodney co-conspirator and he says he always gets the "matt" finish from Shapeways - but sounds like that was not an option for you(!)

Thanks for your comments re Rodney - Next outing will we Wicksteed Park Model Mayhem - It should be a fun model but even with 2 of us beavering away we still have loads to do!

Jonathan

Hi Doug,

No issue with Shapeways parts - all been very good quality so far.

Maybe you should go back to them and ask about the finish quality?

Regards
Jonathan

One small step... - the begining of the radio control system for HMS Rodney

and yes I know the degrees are out(!) an easy fix

https://youtu.be/9ISfzF4owk8

https://youtu.be/9ISfzF4owk8

🔗

▶️

Hi CaptLarry - yes - 73's Jonathan

Thank you for the supportive comments - a couple more pics of work in progress

It's a bit of a hybrid! - Hull and main superstructure built by Mr Ron Dean - Deans Marine - he does a semi kit.

Then a current joint effort between 2 modellers - I am doing the techie fit out (radio/turret rotation/ gun elevation and smoke firing, sound system etc) and my co-conspirator Peter Ward is doing the model build - it's his painting of the pom pom gun! - We both have empty piggy banks having placed multiple $$$ orders with Shapeways for 3D printed parts

Additional items like the crane, catapult and Walrus aircraft are supplied by John R Haynes

Freshly painted - looking good...

Sorry only only FaceBook

See 30 seconds onwards

https://www.facebook.com/techtamar/videos/833982853702579/?t...

And Callum's exploits

https://www.facebook.com/watch/techtamar/

https://www.facebook.com/techtamar/videos/833982853702579/?t=27

🔗

https://www.facebook.com/watch/techtamar/

🔗

The magic is supplied by Peter Ward (my co-conspirator) in the form of the detailing of the hull/supersrtucture - Shapeways 3D prints are a major feature along with John R Haynes brass work.

The 3 turrets will rotate and be able to auto track a target. The 9 guns will be controlled individually or in groups and will elevate, smoke, flash. An awesome sound system that will be synchronised both water and shore based. Everything controlled by a bespoke application on an internet enabled browser device (phone or tablet)

So a fun project

Video is an early mock up of turret functions
_._

HMS RODNEY - Turret development

▶️

---

Hi Martin555,

The ballast is likely to be removeable in multiple cast lead modules and installed at the lakeside. There is so much "tech" going inside the massive 30cm beam hull that even though it's enourmous - space will need to be carefully managed.

Transport of the main boat will be using an old ladder modified with supports and side/end restraints - at least that's the current plan

Watch this space!

This boat was Ron Dean's personal project which he reluctantly sold recently (the paddling pool pictures on this thread are as purchased) so the base hard work and credit to for that is his - I am, with a friend just adding some magic to Ron's work.

_._

HMS Rodney 89" - Ballast test - 28KGS

First turret well under way - one gun smoking - yes too much but it's fun!

HMS Rodney

▶️

Example pulseIn() code to read RC RX pin (tested-working)

/* This is example code for an RC switch */

unsigned long ch1;

/* run setup code once*/
void setup() {
pinMode(4, INPUT); // Set our input pins as such
pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(115200);
}

/* loop code*/
void loop() {
ch1 = pulseIn(4, HIGH, 22500); // Read the pulse width of the channel - timeout after X milliseconds if no change to pin

if (ch1 > 0) {

if (ch1 > 1700) { //assigned to a 2 position switch
digitalWrite (3, HIGH); // turn on
if (ch1 < 1300) {
digitalWrite (3, LOW); // turn off
}
}
Serial.println(ch1); // print value read to serial monitor
}
}

Note: Pin 13 on many Arduino boards is connected to the onboard LED - This is great as a fast way to test code. Be aware that as the Arduino boots it normally flashes the led on pin 13 - so if you connect your switch circuit to pin 13 it will also switch on/off on board startup

---

Never tried using analogRead for PWM - does it work?

I know you have typed this code from memory which from my experience always leads to silly errors - couple of observations - to stand a chance pin should be A1 not 1 but I think you would have more success with pulseIn() (mandatory use of timeout parameter as if no change in signal code it will waste time waiting for one to arrive!!!) - however I am not a fan of this command due to it's "code blocking" side effect - far better to use Interrupts

Another pointer - repeated use of analog Read can lead to spurious readings - there is only one AD convertor - the analog pins are multiplexed to the single AD - the solution is to read any analog pin twice with a 5 millisecond delay between and only use the second read.

The first read forces the multiplexer to look at your desired pin, the delay allows voltage sabilisation and the second read will be a good stable reading

How do I know this - because I lost many brain cells and hours of my life before I found the solution!!

Projects have a habit of evolving and getting more complex, using puslseIn() (with timeout parameter set) for reading a few RC receiver pins to control some switches works well, if you then progress to more complex projects you will eventually find that using pulseIn() comes back to haunt you (code blocking) - using interuppts is a sure fire way of sucess with complex projects

See this link for a great tutorial and explanation - I have used a variant of Ryan's code for years

https://ryanboland.com/blog/reading-rc-receiver-values/

_._

https://ryanboland.com/blog/reading-rc-receiver-values/

🔗

---

Hi Doug,

The K in morse code is an abbreviation for "over" or "Invitation to transmit " or variations of that ilke.

If your local you call the town Ket ring - if not you would pronouce it as Ketter ring - easy to spot a local!!!

Hopefully we can pique others interest in Arduino, a very rewarding aspect to the hobby and it certainly exercises the brain cells. As many will know but if they don't Arduino is designed to be "accessible", whilst the first few hurdles might seem like vertical brick walls they are worth knocking down as once some of the concepts are mastered you can create some amazing projects.

It's a shame many will not scratch the Arduino surface and see what's invloved - we don't think twice about sending a text message on our phone - but if you put a phone in front a someone who had never done this before they would not have a clue of what to do, and it would seem a complex and all but impossible task!!!

_._ de G6SWJ

---

Sometimes things are not as they seem!

I was not trying to keep a secret - more wanting to be a responsible forum member.

A few years back a forum was started for RC & Arduino - the majority of the content relates to model boats or subs.

It was started as fellow modellers wanted to discuss and progress their Arduino adventures but clogging up a model boat forum with the minutiae of microprocessors and software syntax, the discussion and pursuit of misplaced semi colons, did seem fair on other members who had no interest in the subject.

It was also not possible to structure and present the techie information in a way that a dedicated forum facilitates (sections/categories/groups etc) – hence we started our own forum.

Our intention was/is that the detail would be kept away from cluttering up the modelling forum’s – the results however in all their glory would be published and celebrated on the various modelling sites and shared with all members – hopefully a win-win situation.

My PM contained the link to the RC & Arduino forum where all are welcome to join – it is not my intention to divert posts, traffic away from the modelling sites as explained above – if admin do not approve of this post then please delete.

RC & Arduino forum - http://rcarduino.freeforums.net/

And yes to both ‘K’s although I wouldn’t want to boast about the Ket ring one!
_._

http://rcarduino.freeforums.net/

🔗

---

PM sent...

_._

Hi Elsrickle,

It's easy to connect an Arduino to an RC RX and read the PWM output(s) from the receiver channels and then apply some 'logic' to this/these readings/states and then act on that logic to do something e.g. switch something on/off

Working backwards - what types of lights do you want to switch?

And I would say YES - it's possible for someone new to Arduino to achieve what you want with some guidance - we all started somewhere!

With most things to do with Arduino you don't start with a completely blank sheet - you often use someone elses code and modify/add to it - you will find that there is not much you can think of that hasn't been done by someone else before using the internet.

Do be aware that some of the Arduino forums can be scary places even for seasoned Arduinoers...

_._

---

Looks good - If you are into this type of things - check out free Vixen Lights software - sequencing software( looks simple but it's powerful software - takes a while to get used to - outputs serial commands to the like of Arduino - software downloads/install often flag as malware etc - they are 100% safe

http://www.vixenlights.com/

Great use of RGB addressable LEDS

And then you can do this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90oZ52M4IC0

_._

http://www.vixenlights.com/

🔗

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90oZ52M4IC0

🔗

▶️

---

Does it include the jet drives?

Hi JB,

I have caught up now and by reading through the posts to see your journey. I have been on a similar journey - I thought I would share some of my learnings.

The electronics in the vape devices may well drive a display, buttons +/- and a display interface etc but the basic electronics for the power to the coil are very simple.

The power is "pulsed" to the coil using Pulse Width Modulation - basically in each cycle how much time the power is ON or OFF - very similiar to a domestic dimmer switch. By varying the pulse on/off period (Duty Cycle) I can adjust the power being supplied to the coil

The coils do not have a voltage limit (I run my standard coils from a 12v SLA) - they do have power (watts) limit where watts =volts x amps.

I am not sure on the spec of you voltage regulator - it may be constant current - so when you drop the voltage to 2.x volts your are essentially dropping the overall watts in the circuit.

The resistance of most coils is single or sub ohm so are almost a short circuit - no surprise your voltage regulator gets very hot/spits it's fury

I create my pulsed power to the coil using a MOSFET

I also have a temperature sensor in place to auto shut things down if needed and will be a able to remotely monitor each of the 9 smoke devices remotely

Hope this adds to the subject

_._

---

I don't have any pics right now.

See the post I made about the fan specifcation

I mount the vape tank in a box, the vape outlet exits through the box and the fan vented to the outside world

_._

Hi,

I apologise - I gave an incorrect link previously - should have been this one

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/axial-fans/8621595/

Yes they are expensive £19 (I am using 9 of eveything in my build - the ££££ - ouch) but when you power them up you realise why - they are unlike many fans you will come across - they have some real grunt and the air volume they move is awesome - leave them running face down on a desk and they will almost take off!!!

Spec - an Air Flow 36m³/h and high static pressure (they can move static air quickly from startup =grunt)

Many fans (computer type - black case) have 4 wires. This normally indicates that they have an inbuilt speed controller and often a speed sensor output.

The inbuilt speed controller uses a square wave signal @ 25khz - you vary the duty cycle of the PWM signal to change the speed - this is an industry standard spec

You may well hear you computer fan run at different speeds - that will be using the system described above

So the catch is how you get your 25khz control signal - I use a standard microprocessor board to supply the 25khz signal. I am able to remotely change the speed of the fan to shape how much smoke is exiting the system

_._

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/axial-fans/8621595/

🔗

Hi Graham 93,

These pumps are great - they will self prime.

I have slowed them down until the motor is about to stall and they still pump/prime with water source 1 meter vertically below pump

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharplace-Water-Aquarium-Motor-Diap...

_._

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sharplace-Water-Aquarium-Motor-Diaphragm/dp/B076PM94PX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=370+Mini+Water+Aquarium+Pump&qid=1575304138&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-4

🔗

---

Just a quick note - the fan speed control is a 25khz PWM signal - nothing to do with RC ESC!

_._

Yes - I have mine 100% open to get maximum air flow.

I can then control the fan speed to control air flow

The fan I use is a wee beastie - would not go amisss in a hovercraft - the fan has an inbuilt speed controller

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/axial-fans/7815048/

_._

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/axial-fans/7815048/

🔗

---

Hi Jb,

Have you binned the vape circuitry completely?

_._