You are without a doubt making a fantastic job of putting that together, absolutely love the fine details right down to the last rivet. Incredible achievement, you should be really proud of your efforts.

Finally completed after near enough four years work off and on. Mind I am very happy with the result, the superstructure was slightly modified so as the steam plant can be removed easily in one piece.

Where are the molygoggers? There should be two of them. Regards,Gary.

I had very much the same problem and ended up with a set of photos of the building of a plank on frame hull, plus the two photos I had added. Get the post back up and try "edit" the photos in the window all have a little cross top right-hand corner, click it and they will delete. It is a bit hit and miss so best of luck. The problem is it does mess up your harbour. Regards, Gary.

Finally completed on 5th April, I must be slowing down with age. Despite the weight of the installed steam plant, it requires more weight to sit more realistically on the water.

Hi Stephen, and P on F verses Fibre-glass is a bit of a quandary, it is the sense of achievement factor completing a plank on frame hull, versus the time factor of installing a steam engine straight into a completed ready painted hull. As my present build has taken more than three years, because I opted to also rebuild a 1960s motorbike at the same time. I think the Fibre-glass hull is the right way to go as I do enjoy the steam engine installation, and that will be my starting point. I have a 9/16" bore twin slide valve in mind as a very efficient engine, as this is a 48" hull I hope I can manage the weight of the completed boat. Regards.

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I am pleased to hear you are doing a building blog, and even more so in the fact it will be steam powered. Both myself and plenty of others will be monitoring your progress with interest, and I wouldn't worry about the time factor as it takes as long as it takes, and it's as simple as that. I think your Formidable LT100 has inspired me enough to buy the John Hemmings version of the same, despite the fact it is rather expensive. you are an inspiration young man enjoy your build, I think I can safely say that as everyone is younger than me. Regards, Gary.

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Hi Steve, I can't get over that hull with its ultra-thin strakes, it has to be the best plank on frame build ever, incredible workmanship and patience. I love its canoe like quality. Regards, Gary.

Incredible workmanship Steve, and a beautiful end result, when you attach this to the back end of Formidable LT100 make sure it is the right way up and don't fit a cover. How goes the steam plant installation into the hull? Be on the safe side and fit a gas cut off from Clevedon Steam, and an attenuator valve to save you both gas and water, check out Microcosm China. (A gas control valve working off boiler pressure.) Regards, Gary.

Hi Stephen, and thank you for answering my query, I now understand exactly what you did and why you did it, and of course it gives you an amazing amount of room inside the hull with no obstructions. You must have the patience of Jobe or even St. Stephen, and I really admire you for that as a normal plank of frame build takes long enough, but your method must have taken forever, literally. LT 53 has a TVR 1/2" bore twin side valve, 3 1/2" x 6" boiler, that is a fibre glass hull a kit from Mountfleet. The other drifter is a plank on frame Marvon Models kit, and I installed a 6.5cc Four Stroke an OS engine, it ran on tick over with a very good silencer on it, plus it was in the seventies which means I am knocking on a bit. When you have time read being sociable from the beginning, it will make you smile I promise. Regards, Gary.

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Hi Steve, thanks for the photos and info, as this just happens to be a boat I really love as in North Sea Drifters. I am really interested in how you managed to cut the ribs down to such a small profile, making the hull look canoe-like. If you are interested in the history of Formidable LT100 there is a book called From Tree to Sea, written by the master carpenter who worked on this boat with lots of diagrams photos and information. Plus check out John Hemmings Steam engineer he has a Formidable kit at around the £2000 mark, plus a couple of photos of my two Drifters, it could be his brother LT53. Regards, Gary.

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This model has been on the go for the last three years and is now finally almost complete, this one as per the others is powered by a TVR1ABB steam engine and a 3 1/2" diameter x 6" gas fired boiler.

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I feel I have to comment on your Anteo Tug, that has to be one of the neatest planked hulls I have seen in a while, and the paint job on the hull is quite incredible, wow. I built this kit back in the 1970s and it definitely is and was really good value for money, none of your white metal rubbish, near enough everything was brass and good quality. I opted for the authentic look and fitted a steam plant into the hull, not an easy job to cut down and strengthen all those ribs, but worth it in the end. Enjoy your hobby.Regards.Gary.

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As the Thread title is Being Sociable and believe me I am on a good day, I have a suggestion to make if you are interested. As you are in the Leeds area and I am only say ninety minutes drive away, would you care to pay me a social call? I would like to help you get started in your S***m quest, I have a few engines here which are new or home-made and not used, and I am willing to part with one of them for free. This could be the Answer to Question 1 Cost. Let me know if you are interested. Regards, GARY.

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Just thought I would add this as an after-thought. Concentrate your search on China as that is definitely where the bargains are. The biggest problem with this is they expect you to buy in bulk as a dealer, and the minimum purchase seems to be TEN pieces, do you have nine like-minded friends who need engines. the thought has crossed my mind about buying ten and putting say eight of them on eBay. Regards, Gary.

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To Michael, as I can't really ignore your question although that does not apply to all comments, I am hoping this information helps you to find what you are looking for, and gets you involved with boiled water vapour. Just a little apprehensive about using that word now, (S***m.) Google: Paddleducks, then click on Links, then click on S***m Engines. you will hopefully be pleasantly surprised and that is only half of it. Check out USE an oscillating single acting engine assembled and machined at £38.00, you would need to couple two together to make it self starting. Boilers, more expensive than engines, your best bet would be, buy it in kit form and find a good gas welder to put it together for you, a DIY type gas torch won't do it, and it requires silver soldering and an awful lot of heat. Hoping this helps. Regards, Gary.

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Doug, the Thread Title on my post is Being Sociable, and not how to be AntiSocial. Thank you for retyping my words of wisdom, did that catch a nerve or rub you the wrong way or something. if you feel you must comment then kindly do a little research and get your facts right. I could correct all six points that you felt you had to share, but there would be no point as per water off a duck's back. I am a fan of steam but not a fanatic, and I won't get steamed up and unlike you, I didn't get my wires crossed.

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I really can't believe that considering all the members that use this website, that no one is interested in steam engines and what steam has to offer. Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam engine. When I think of the problems involved to find plans and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam engine. in the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat. if anyone out there in the ether shares my passion for steam, kindly get in touch, I would appreciate not being completely on my OWN.

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Clinker built open launches built to show off the boiler, steam engine and complex plumbing. (Motor: The Caton piston valve) (ESC: servo controlled) (9/10)

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This Drifter was a Marvon Models Kit and was incredible value for the money, a double planked plank on frame hull, and detailed instructions and good quality timber and fittings. As the engine was a four-stroke and silenced, plus the fact it was ticking over at very few revs, it made less noise than your average electric motor. Plus we were not trying too hard to save the planet in those good old days. (Motor: OS. 6.5cc Marine 4 stroke.) (ESC: servo controlled) (10/10)

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My first ever Tug about fifty years ago, and my very first steam engine hence the super-structure looks a little hacked about, especially the engine housing with globe valves stuck out here and there. this was and still is an amazing kit from Panart, a plank on frame double skinned hull, and all the fittings were brass to a very high quality, (note the anchor winch all brass and it works. The engine and boiler was from Maxwell Hemmings one of the very few manufacturers at the time. (Motor: Piston Valve Twin Cylinder) (ESC: Servo controlled) (10/10)

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Hi Rick I am having a few problems here trying to manipulate this website, I have read your message asking about an engine flywheel, and I will make one for you as I have the necessary diameter brass bar. your problem is figuring out how I get it to you, let me know how we can accomplish this problem. Regards, Gary.

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Inspiration, a beautiful thing almost a work of art.

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Hi Rick, and I am hoping this helps, the inlet and exhaust manifolds on the engine have no fittings included for you to screw onto, the connecting end is just a plain 1/8" brass pipe, so you need to silver-solder your fitting to suit. I have included a photo which hopefully will help. you are going to need some elbows (90* bends) and maybe a Tee piece or two, globe valves and the pipe fittings to put it all together, plus a condenser to collect and separate the exhaust waste steam. My condenser is simply a piece of 2" brass pipe, I can do you some piping diagrams for you if this helps, or send me a plan of how you are going to connect it all together. The end result will be worth it I promise. Regards, Gary. Hang on in there I have every confidence.

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Hi Rick, would you believe it is me yet again, I just thought you might like to check out my Harbour, as I have just put three boats in there, all with steam engines. Plus I was thinking if I where you which I am not but if I was. you will need to buy an oil lubricator for your engine, and Clevedon Steam has a lubricator with a throttle lever control valve attached to it, this would make a lot of sense. Question, can you silver solder as you will need to fabricate some pipe work? Regards Gary.

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I decided to build an open steam-boat to have the boiler and piston valve engine on show, all that polished copper and brass should be on show and not hidden away, this hull is clinker-built to my own design. (Motor: Maxwell Hemmings Caton) (ESC: servo controlled) (9/10)

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An almost scale version of the real thing, with a gas fired boiler driving a Tvr1 bb, 1/2" bore, twin cylinder, slide valve engine. this utilises an attenuator valve using boiler pressure to conserve both gas and steam pressure. (ESC: Servo controlled) (10/10)

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A Victorian/Edwardian steam launch from the 1800s as sailed on Lake Windermere, this is very similar to a launch called Branksome, which it was copied from. (Motor: Cheddar slide valve) (ESC: servo controlled) (8/10)

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Hi Rick, did you clock the two videos Danish steam I put on the video section?

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Hi Rick, and there is no news like good news, I promise you will not regret buying the engine, a wonderful piece of kit and runs like a Swiss watch. its crowning glory is the fact it runs on less than 30 PSI an easy boiler pressure to maintain. I am sure you will enjoy building the engine and sorting out the slide valve timing, and you will have a good understanding of exactly how it works. Hoping the old eyes are still sharp, for all those tiny screws. Regards, Gary. PS. The ideal boiler size is 3 1/2" dia. 6" length, will give you near enough 30 mins. run time.

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