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Registered
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Last Online
4th Nov 2023

Graham93

Member Stats

Stats
Member No.	#	5557
Registered	📅	5th Jun 2019
Last Online	📅	4th Nov 2023
City	📍	Macclesfield
Country	🇬🇧	United Kingdom
Gender	♂️	Male
Age	👶	Not Provided
Posts	💬	1039
Followers	📣	11
Likes Received	👍	4353
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11 Followers

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1139 Points Away From Admiral!

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Gaff Rigged Cutter 'Ellen'

Semi-scale inspired by the design of gaff rigged pilot cutters. Based on plans from Gary Webb (bearospaceindustries.com) it took 6 months to build. Hull is ply sheeting over ply bulkheads. Three channel RC - two sail winches plus rudder. Removable rig, keel and rudder plus retractable bowsprit for transport. Overall length 58in, hull length at deck level 43in, beam 12 3/4in. Sail area is 1180 sq ins. Lots of scale like detail added to the basic plan including anchor winch, tiller, skylight, gooseneck, deadeyes, working blocks with brass sheeves... A couple of videos produced by Buxton Model Boat Club member Phil: https://youtu.be/VgHNemEOfn0 https://youtu.be/gcM6U8VguXs Full blog here: https://model-boats.com/blogs/86653

Graham93

2 years ago

5 Attributes

11 Comments

Scullduggery

Scratch built model rowing boat. Built during Covid19 lockdown from salvaged Oak and Mahogany. Propulsion by oars only. Two servos on each oar to provide the rowing action. Two channels used on the TX to control rowing - the equivalent of 'throttle' and 'rudder'. On board PIC microprocessor converts throttle and rudder commands into oar movements. Will row forwards and backwards as well as turning. The two figures are 'bionic' upgrades to Action Man. Bionic Bill the rower has two servos installed, one to provide forward/backward rocking syncronised with the rowing action. The second servo provides head rotation, controlled from the TX. His younger brother Ben has three servos installed to provide twisting of the body, arm raising and head turning. These are controlled from a second on board PIC to provide either the fishing rod control sequence or the smoking sequence. Smoke is produced from a smoke generator built from an e-cig and air pump. Accessories on board include fishing rod, landing net, bucket, lunch and radio. The radio plays a selection of sea shanties controlled from the TX. Build time - 6 months. Another YouTube video here: https://youtu.be/MReEIPmiZ1U

Graham93

3 years ago

0 Attributes

12 Comments

34" Crash Tender

Here is my Crash Tender together with the homemade 27MHz transmitter. Built in the early 1970s. The collage photo is from 45 years ago, sailing on the boating lake in Llanfairfechan, North Wales. Recently rescued from the garage covered in dust. Diesel replaced with brushless motor and on the water again. Now in dry dock for a major refit!

Graham93

5 years ago

0 Attributes

17 Comments

Members Blogs

35 Posts

30 Followers

465 Likes

Kayak

Time for a new scratch built boat. A couple of years ago I built 'Scullduggery' a scratch built rowing boat manned by Bionic Bill and Ben. https://model-boats.com/blogs/68795 Scullduggery is always well received when Bill and Ben are out rowing on the lake, so I've decided to have a go at building something similar, this time a kayak. After a bit of research, I came across a book by Nick Schade which describes in great detail how to build a full sized wooden strip kayak. There are several instructional videos by Nick on YouTube. There is also a company in Cumbria (https://www.fyneboatkits.co.uk/ ) who offer kits to build full sized kayaks based on the designs in the book. The photo of the full sized kayak is from their website. The book includes tables of offsets for three different kayak designs. Using these offsets it is possible to draw up a set of plans. Entering all the figures from these offset tables into a spreadsheet makes it relatively easy to change the scale of the plans, but what scale to use? The scale for Scullduggery was determined by the scale of the readily available Action man figures used for the crew i.e. 1/6th scale. Why not use the same scale for the kayak? One concern is the load carrying capacity of the model kayak as well as it's stability on the water. The full sized kayak has a maximum loaded all up weight specification of 160kgs. This equates to only 740g for a 1/6th scale model. Not very much for the complete model including the paddler and radio gear, servos, battery, etc. Using a larger scale of 1/5th for the model improves the all up weight target to 1.28kg which may be more achievable. At 1/5th scale, the completed model will be 39" (986mm) long with a beam of 4.8" (120mm). Using a 1/6th scale figure as the paddler should not look out of place. As I did with the rowing boat, before starting construction of the hull, I want to be confident that I can build a mechanism that will drive the kayak, provide realistic looking paddle movement, fit inside the hull, and not weigh too much. So that is the next step.

Graham93

6 months ago

15 Posts

17 Followers

114 Likes

Racing Sparrow

Having taken a few months off from building, its time to start a new build before the weather improves and the grass needs cutting. I currently have two yachts, a Wee Nip and Ellen, a Gaff rigged Pilot Cutter. I sail the Wee Nip most weeks, and the Pilot Cutter occasionally when the weather is suitable (it needs a 'good blow'). I decided to build something between the two in terms of size. A bit of on-line research came up with the Racing Sparrow. A design by New Zealander Bryn Heveldt. I bought a second hand copy of his book, which includes a full size plan. There is also a website where copies of the plan can be downloaded for free. https://racingsparrow.co.nz/ The cost of the book was less than the cost of getting the free on-line plans printed at a print shop. I have downloaded the free plan so that I can print parts of the plan on A4 sheets to use as templates. I soon found that there are differences between the plan included in the book, and the on-line plan both in terms of the hull shape, and the overall scale of the plan. I chose this design because it is a size I hope will be easy to transport, it is plank on frame construction using balsa which I haven't tackled before, and it looks good! The book includes step by step instructions for the complete build, including details of the materials and tools required. Good for a complete novice to boat building, although there are some strange anomalies when it comes to metric and imperial dimensions. For example 1/8th of an inch is converted to 4mm while 1/16th is converted to 1mm! First task is to start accumulating bits and pieces, and to order the balsa.

Graham93

2 years ago

12 Posts

19 Followers

151 Likes

Rescue Launch

A few weeks ago, while looking after our 7 year old grandson for the day while his mum and dad were at work he asked (several times) if he could help me building my boats. As I'm not currently building anything, we had to find other things to do build (Lego) for the day. After he had gone home, I started to think about a boat he could help build. I had come across HAkits in a couple of blogs on this site so found their website and decided that their Rescue Launch would make a nice model for a 7 year old. The kit was duly ordered and arrived a few days later. Building from a kit like this is a bit of a departure for me as I usually scratch build my models. The kit was well packaged but there didn't seem to be much in the bag. Three sheets of laser cut ply, a few sticks (rubbing strakes), some plastic window frames, a sheet of clear acetate with a template for the windows and an instruction manual. The instruction manual will look familiar to any 7 year old who is used to building Lego kits. It has numbered steps, each with a drawing of the assembly showing the next piece to be fitted. Each of the laser cut parts is identified with it's name etched into the surface. However I did notice that in some cases the name of the part used in the instructions is different to the name etched into it. For example assembly step 3 says 'glue the bow former .. in place'. The required piece is etched with 'bulkhead 1 support'. Guaranteed to confuse a 7 year old (and his grandad occasionally ). The pieces need to be cut from the ply sheets with a Stanley knife. I didn't like the idea of sending my grandson home with bandaged fingers at the end of the day so decided to make a thin 'chisel' from a snap-off blade mounted in a dowel handle. This should allow the pieces to be freed from the ply sheet using a hammer with less risk to little fingers. So now I'm ready, waiting for the return of Finley....

Graham93

2 years ago

44 Posts

35 Followers

482 Likes

Gaff Rigged Pilot Cutter

And so the story begins....... A few days ago on the 'Jolie Brise' forum topic I stated "I have a plan". Well I meant this literally! While searching the Web for inspiration for my next model, I found a plan for a Pilot Cutter. I was searching for schooner plans, and came across this plan and was hooked. The plan was ordered on line (on my birthday) and was delivered electronically within a few hours (nice birthday present ). It comprises a large A0 sheet, six A2 sheets plus seven A4 pages of build instructions. All for $15 US. I had the plans printed using an on-line print shop (during lockdown). The printing cost was more than the plan cost I could have printed at home by 'tiling' the large sheets onto multiple A4 pages and then glueing them together but didn't want the distortions that would inevitably occur using that approach. The plans are very detailed with most parts being drawn full size. The build instructions are comprehensive. Time will tell how good they are in reality, but initial indications are promising. The Cutter has a full suite of sails, mainsail, main topsail, stay sail, jib and jib topsail. There are two winch servos, one to control the mainsail and one for the foresails. The plans do not have a lot of scale detail. Gary the designer states in the build instructions " This boat practically begs for more scale like detail" I intend to take him up on that challenge. I'll let Garry Webb the designer tell you more about it in his video. Graham93

Graham93

3 years ago

7 Posts

9 Followers

61 Likes

Micro Tug

Last week, after enduring a week of lockdown, I began to wonder when I would be able to get back to the boating lake. It is obviously going to be some time, so what is the alternative? The only water I have in the garden is the plaster mixing bath 'test tank', so could I build a boat to sail in that? Last night, here on the site discussion turned to similar thoughts: https://model-boats.com/forum/69162#69493 But what to build? A recent copy of Model Boats included a free plan for a 'Pusher Tug'. I decided to have a go and see if I could build something based on the plan, with the added challengs of not buying any materials. Key parts of the plan were scanned using an A4 desktop scanner and then reduced in size to half the original scale using Photoshop. A couple of sections had to be scanned as two pieces, and then recombined in Photoshop. Once scaled down each part then fitted onto an A4 sheet and could be printed out. Collecting dust behind a bookcase in what used to be my sons' bedroom were some sheets of 1.5mm balsa. Ideal! After a few hours work, the basic hull was assembled using superglue. I haven't built anything in balsa since the 1980's with my sons. We used balsa cement in those days, but superglue makes it much quicker and easier. Graham93

Graham93

4 years ago

40 Posts

24 Followers

432 Likes

Row, row, row, yet another boat

In response to Martin's call for more blogs to help see us through the isolation brought on by Covid-19 I thought I'd start this one. For a while now I have been thinking about building a rowing boat. I like the idea and the challenge trying to build something that moves using oars and looks right. There are several videos on YouTube. I especially like the attached one. But where to start? I have been collecting materials over the past few months but haven't started to build anything yet. The plan is to control the oars with servos and electronics, two servos on each oar. A microchip to control the servos to give the rowing motion and to allow control of speed and direction. 'Throttle' and 'rudder' inputs from the radio gear. As for the dingy I have found the attached plan which is a possibility if I scale it down. The rower will be an Action Man (acquired from ebay for 99p!) so the dingy scale will be around 1/6 to suit the rower. That is as far as I have got. Anyone here with experience of this sort of model? I would welcome advice from anyone who has tried this sort of thing. Is the dingy plan I found a good starting point or is there a better way? Can I simply scale the plan down to 1/6 by reducing all the dimensions pro-rata, or is there something I'm missing?

Graham93

3 years ago

12 Posts

11 Followers

107 Likes

34 inch Crash Tender refit

I posted a some pictures of my Crash Tender a few months ago and it was suggested that I should do a blog. So here we go. This is my first blog, and my first boat. I am not going to provide a blow by blow account of the refit, as this would largely turn into a repeat of the excellent blogs by Rob (Robbob) and Mike (mturpin013). These two blogs have been a great inspiration and source of guidance for me over the past couple of months. I built the boat in the early 1970s, but haven't had it on the water for nearly 45 years. Until recently, it had been collecting dust in my garage for all that time. The first task, having given it a good was to remove most of the dust, was to remove the ED Racer diesel engine, fuel tank, exhaust, etc and to fill in the exhaust hole in the transom. The diesel had always been a challenge to start, and to keep running. That, together with the unreliable, home built 27MHz radio gear is the reason the boat had been in dry dock for 45 years. A new brushless motor, water cooled ESC and 3S LiPo battery were installed in place of the diesel. The propeller also needed replacing as the old one was too large. This identified the first problem. Times have changed since the 1970s and props now have metric threads, whereas my 1970s propshaft had a 4BA thread at both ends. A new 4mm silver steel shaft was fitted threaded M4 at each end. The new shaft diameter necessitated also replacing the plastic bushes in the shaft outer. Plastic bushes were probably not a good idea in any case. New phosphor bronze bushes were turned and fitted and it was then time to get it back on the water. The first trial was very encouraging. The modern radio worked well, the boat was easy to start, quiet, and performed better than it ever had with the old gear. When I originally built it, I did not fit chine strakes. I cannot remember now why. It may be I didn't realise they should be fitted, or perhaps I felt they would spoil the smooth lines of the hull! Even without them it did manage to plane a little. Being fired up with enthusiasm after this first trial, I decided it was time to get back into the workshop, fit the missing strakes and start the refit proper.

Graham93

4 years ago

Recent Posts

💬 Re: HMS Verulam R28 Refit Part 4.Torpedo tubes.

4 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 66 Views · 2 Likes

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Nice solution in a very restricted space Bill. 👍 Great set of photos which make it much easier to understand.

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💬 Re: New Paddle

5 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 21 Views · 2 Likes

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Thanks Michael, still fiddling with the kayak. May have another update soon.

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💬 Re: Ship of the desert ? new project

5 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 98 Views · 7 Likes

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The steering arrangement looks good JB👍 I also like the novel sail 🤣😂

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💬 Re: New Paddle

6 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 45 Views · 3 Likes

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Thanks everyone for the 'likes' and the comments. I expect I will continue to fiddle with it. Models never seem to be quite finished.....

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📝 New Paddle

6 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 59 Views · 23 Likes · 10 Comments

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Having gained some experience with the test paddle, and having worked out the feathering angle needed between the two blades by trial and error, its time to make a fancy replacement.

Some cedar and pine were cut into strips and glued to produce a striped blank. This was then cleaned up and cut using a bandsaw to produce four blanks taking care to ensure that the stripe pattern lined up. A shaped sanding block was used to sand a curve into the blades which were then glued to a redwood shaft and cut to shape. Lots more sanding was needed to thin the blades and blend the joint between the blades and the shaft. Once the sanding was finished the blades were strengthened with a layer of lightweight glasscloth and epoxy on both sides, followed by 3 coats of yacht varnish.

The new paddle is slightly longer than the original, and the blades are also a little bigger.

A short video, courtesy of 'philcaretaker':

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📝 HAKits ???

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 87 Views · 0 Likes

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Here it is:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=HAk

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📝 HAKits ???

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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Great kits 👍 Take a look at my blog for one of the HAkits:

blogs/99841

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📝 New Rudder

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 70 Views · 11 Likes · 2 Comments

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The original rudder was made to "scale size" (1/6th). It worked, but the turning circle wasn't great. I attached a piece of plastic to the rudder with double sided tape to try the effect of a bigger rudder, and as expected, the maneuverability of the kayak was much improved, even if the appearance wasn't 😆.

A replacement rudder made from western red cedar looks a lot better. The shape ensures that the increase in size is not visible when the kayak is out on the water.

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💬 Re: Update

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 83 Views · 3 Likes

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Hi Doug,

She is quite quick on the water, and surprisingly unaffected by the wind. Bill and Ben in the dinghy just get blown around if there is any wind, but Katie is fine. Probably down to the low profile hull not catching the wind.

The paddle blade penetration can be adjusted using a spare channel on the Tx so I can set it for best result. Once adjusted, I can then store the setting permanently with a command from the Tx. Several other parameters can be adjusted in a similar way, for example the port/stbd balance of the paddle and the rudder compensation to offset the alternating paddle thrust.

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📝 Update

8 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 88 Views · 16 Likes · 5 Comments

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I can't believe it's been two months since my last update to this blog. I haven't been idle though and have continued to tweak the paddling mechanism and the control electronics.

The latest tweak was to increase the size of the rudder as I had foolishly made it the correct 'scale' size, forgetting that water doesn't scale and a model rudder needs to be larger than scale. Anyway, I glued a bit of clear plastic on to the wooden rudder with double sided tape as a trial and it has greatly improved the turning circle. Now I just need to make a wooden replacement to replace the plastic and sticky tape version. I'm also part way through making a 'fancy' paddle to replace the test paddle, now that I have the blade feathering angle worked out.

Here's a short video clip of the latest outing yesterday:

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📝 Fun/funny Boat

8 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 90 Views · 10 Likes

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Hi Westwind,

I like fun boats. I have three, a rowboat, a kayak and a duck!

There are Blogs on this site for my Rowboat and Kayak - both are scratch built.

The only rowboat kit I'm aware of was the Graupner 'Tina' but it is no longer available.

Graham93

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📝 Buck converters

8 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 64 Views · 8 Likes

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Hi Nick,

Simple answer - it depends!

So it depends on the specification of your converter. Certainly there are plenty of converters available that will happily step up from 7.4v to 12v.

The other consideration is matching the current rating of the converter to what you intend to drive with it.

Also be aware that the current drawn from your 7.4v battery will be higher than the current output from the converter. So if you want an output of 1A at 12v, the converter will draw 12/7.4 A = 1.6A from the battery. Indeed, as the converter isn’t 100% efficient, the current drawn will be a bit more than 1.6A.

Hope that helps

Graham93

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📝 Accidents happen.

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 87 Views · 4 Likes

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Oh dear Colin. Sorry to hear about the accident, but good to know you are feeling a bit better this morning. I’m sure you will be taking things easy for a few days and will be back to modelling soon!

Best wishes Graham93

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💬 Re: Modifications - 1

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 108 Views · 6 Likes

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Hi Peter,

A longer paddle might be necessary but I think a spacer might weaken the shaft too much. As it’s only a trial paddle, I’ll just make a longer one if I decide to go that way. Meanwhile I’m working on software changes to tilt the paddle more on each side when paddling in a straight line. The blades go into the water deeply enough when turning.

Graham93

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💬 Re: Modifications - 1

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 108 Views · 2 Likes

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Hi Neil,

Now that would be a challenge! One to add to the list of possible future projects perhaps🤔

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📝 Modifications - 1

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 114 Views · 13 Likes · 5 Comments

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I wanted to keep the paddle shaft in one piece for strength, but while undergoing 'sea trials' it has become clear that a means of adjusting the feather angle between the two paddle blades is essential. Accordingly, a brass coupling was made on the lathe. It comprises two pieces which screw together with a knurled locking nut. The paddle shaft was cut into two halves and epoxied into each end of the coupling. The two halves can now be adjusted to set the blade feather and locked in position.

The other problem during the first outing was Katie letting go of the paddle. Whilst this gave an impressive demonstration of one, or even no, handed paddling, it wasn't very realistic 😂🤣. Loops of elastic cord were added to keep her hands on the paddle.

The paddling action is produced with a combination of mechanics and software control. A few changes were made to the software to improve the ability to steer. There is still more to be done to improve this. If you watch carefully at 0:35 seconds in the video, you can see the rudder compensating for the paddle stroke to help keep Katie moving in a straight line.

Sorry the video is a bit jerky in parts with my camera mounted on the transmitter. I expect Phil may have something better to show, once he has had time to edit it.

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💬 Re: "Katie the Kayaker"

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

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✧ 286 Views · 3 Likes

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Thanks Phil, your videos are so much better than mine 👍

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River Rat

💬 Re: Maiden voyage

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 134 Views · 1 Like

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Hi Trev,

I think she needs to get a grip...🤣😂

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stevedownunder

💬 Re: Maiden voyage

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 134 Views · 2 Likes

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Thanks Colin,

I think once she has learnt how to paddle properly the boys will have trouble catching up with her 😂🤣

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jbkiwi

stevedownunder

📝 Maiden voyage

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 134 Views · 18 Likes · 8 Comments

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Before the maiden (!) voyage, a quick head 'transplant' !! I'd like to introduce 'Katie the Kayaker' 😂🤣

It was with some trepidation that Katie was carefully launched onto the Buxton lake. An ideal day last weekend with very little wind. I knew she would float, but would she move, and be controllable? Well the answer is yes - sort of 🤔

Thanks to Philcaretaker for the video clip.

She managed to paddle out, turn and paddle back, which was a great start. At least she didn't need rescuing. Shame she wouldn't keep hold of the paddle!

The paddle blades are not feathered at the right angle. The starboard blade is at the wrong angle and is hitting the water causing the kayak to rock excessively from side to side.

Once back on dry land, the kayak was checked inside for water. There was just a drop but nothing to worry about, which was also a relief.

So, overall it was reasonably successful, but several teething problems to be resolved before the next outing.👍

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💬 Re: Installing the mechanism

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

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Thanks to everyone for the comments and likes. It is finally coming together after what feels like a long journey. Not much more to do - I hope!

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stevedownunder

GaryLC

📝 Installing the mechanism

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 138 Views · 17 Likes · 8 Comments

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With everything finished, it's just a matter of installing it all into the hull.😉

A temporary paddle was made for initial trials on the water. There are many variables to be settled for the paddle in terms of paddle length, blade size and the feathering angle between the blades. Once these are established, then a 'fancy' paddle will be made.

Pictures 3 & 4 are from an earlier post and show everything in situ, before the deck was added to the hull.

With the deck in place, it is difficult to see very much. It is also difficult to install all the bits, but with a little patience, it all fits.

Manufacture of a spray deck from rip stop nylon was subcontracted to my wife, who has much more patience than I do.😇 An elastic cord run inside a seam around the edge grips over the cockpit rim.

With everything in place, a short video to show the action:

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Scratchbuilder

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💬 Re: Fitting the Rudder

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 138 Views · 4 Likes

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Thanks Peter,

“Kevin the kayaker”. Now there’s a thought.

Only a few days left to finish it off. At least it didn’t take 4 years 😉

Graham93

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dave976

📝 Very sad news Martin555

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 136 Views · 35 Likes

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I sent a link to this topic to Martin's family so that they could see all the tributes from our members.

I received the following response from Martin's son:

" It was very touching to read the comments from the members; dad would have greatly appreciated them. The forum was a large part of dad’s life since he retired around 5 years ago. He loved being in contact with like minded hobbyists and I believe he considered you all as his friends."

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📝 Fitting the Rudder

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 142 Views · 15 Likes · 6 Comments

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The rudder mounting pivot was attached to the stern of the kayak using brass pins and epoxy. The rudder itself was then fitted using a length of M2 threaded rod as a pivot. As with a full sized kayak, a length of bungee cord holds the blade vertical but allows the rudder blade to tilt backwards if it comes into contact with something underwater.

The rudder is linked to the servo using two cords which run from the servo, under the deck through the previously installed aluminium tubes and then exit through the deck adjacent to the rudder. The small springs provide some tension in the cords to remove any slack and backlash.

An additional line runs from just behind the cockpit, through small guides glued to the deck, and attaches to the top of the rudder blade. On a full sized craft, this allows the kayaker to raise the rudder blade to avoid obstructions.

The short video shows the rudder in operation:

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dave976

MouldBuilder

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💬 Re: Finishing the hatch

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 142 Views · 2 Likes

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Won't be long now Michael 👍

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stevedownunder

pressonreguardless

💬 Re: Finishing the hatch

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 145 Views · 5 Likes

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Thanks Colin,

That thought had crossed my mind, I think it’s a really nice idea. No promises though.

Graham93

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pressonreguardless

stevedownunder

HappyHaggis

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Colin H

💬 Re: Finishing the hatch

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 145 Views · 4 Likes

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Thanks Gary,

Nice suggestion. Trouble is he would need eyes in the back of his head as the hatch is behind the cockpit🤔

Graham93

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stevedownunder

HappyHaggis

GaryLC

Colin H

💬 Re: Finishing the hatch

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 145 Views · 5 Likes

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Thanks Steve,

I have a name in mind. All will be revealed on the maiden voyage 😉

Graham93

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pressonreguardless

cormorant

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stevedownunder

📝 Water cooling advice

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 Graham93 (

Vice Admiral)

✧ 73 Views · 2 Likes

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Hi Scott,

A few years ago, JB kiwi and I worked on intermittent cooling water with added air/smoke. It was controlled with a custom programmed microchip.

You can find more on what we did here:

(You need to scroll down a bit to “exhaust smoker”)

blogs/60819#63592

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stevedownunder

HappyHaggis

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