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Model Boats Website Team
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First photo a hit & miss vent, cut to make gratings, painted streaky brown. This is not my idea, but its a good one. The hawser hole finished & the stern ready for filler & paint. Will finish hull paint before completing topgallant rail. Although I have a stand still using the pillow, as it makes a good pin cushion.
The cunning plan for the sails. Heming & stitching is difficult to get anywhere near to scale, unless the scale is large. So I experimented with the flying jib, worked very well. Except I have the bolt rope on the wrong side. I had tried this on glass before but the glue puddled showing badly. Using the Paper pattern cut out the cloth ( I use ticking) With at least 1/2" all around. Mine was washed & ironed. This was because it has been folded in a drawer since the last boat. Cut 4 Teflon blocks & drilled 2 holes ( Teflon cut from an old chopping board). A panel pin through holes one up one down. Place paper pattern on a board, nail the blocks so the nail sticking up is on the point. The other nail is clear of pattern, this will allow the block to pivot. Wind a string that has been soaked in PVA (water resistant type) around the nails. The cloth is slightly dampened with a spray, not to much or it will be to heavy & also the glue could run. Push the nails up through the cloth letting it sag again not to much. When dry remove it from board, cut off the excess cloth as tight as possible to the string. I then mark the panels with pencil. I do this on both sides, after the first side I tape it to the window so I can see & get them the same. Then give sail a coat of very watery coat of PVA, some mixed with acrylic paint. Seen on my model Flying Foam I had over done it a bit.
Here is a trick I am proud of. The cast hawser hole in the bulwarks can be difficult to carve. This is the easy way. Drill a hole down the centre of a dowel, of a suitable size. Cut off the end at a sharp angle, then a slice at a slightly less angle. Then cut in half across the shortest point, turn one piece over & glue back together. (right hand side No 4) A bit of sanding jobs a good'un. Coming together. Yes but its the little bits that take the time.
First the hand rail fitted then bottom plank on bulwarks, then chain plates. then the rest of the planks, Around the stern the planks are vertical. Started on the topgallant rail. Also made a vent for the engine room, from the handle of a milk container.
Thought I would have ago at the fittings for the booms. The bands around the mast made as before ( bore a bar to fit & part off). Solder a lug on place on a mandrill together & drill pivot hole, so they are the same. The barrel, drill down the centre of a 3/16th rod to fit a 3/32 rod. Solder on a lug wile soldering the rods together. Notice the small rod protrudes farther out at the bottom. This is so as I take the tension of the sail the top can pull out freeing the barrel, allowing the sail to be rolled around the boom. The lug is drilled 10BA clearance. The rod in the centre of the boom is turned from hexagon bar, a saw cut down the centre of the remaining hexagon. Drilled & tap 10BA & clearance one side. Now looking in my old gears, thinking of a size to make the reefing drum a stroke of luck. I found the wheels from a correction tape dispenser just the job. Made the stanchions in the 4 jaw. A jig to get the holes the correct distance from the out side of the hull. As the hull planks are 3" & the bulwark planks only 1" the do not run up flush as nearly all models show.
Alan a fleet admiral & you don't know what dead eyes are. Or have I spelt it wrong? They are on top of the chain plates & bottom of shrouds pulled together by rope threaded through the holes, to tension the shrouds. Hatches the hold & deck house no problem, but needed one near the bow. A strip of rubber stuck between 2 strips of balsa form the seal. The rubber from a split windscreen wiper. The hatch planks project at the front so hatch slides under. The back screwed down by dolly winch. The present state of play.
Chain plates made, dead eyes turned from aluminium as I had no wood dense enough to hold together. Rod placed in 3 jaw with a 1/16th packing under one jaw, drill one hole move rod around one & repeat for other holes. Needed a magnifying glass for this. flotation test & placed the lead on deck. Fitted the mast using 2 levels. Good day norm, I hope mine looks as good on the water.
Thank you do you still have your model? I have plans acquired from Dr Morrish 6 or 7 years ago maybe longer time flies. Although I am building her as in 1920s. Saw her in Tenerife February. Took lots of photos much changed now.
Here are the parts for the gearbox, motor from a scraped model monster truck. Gears from my stock, old printers, toys & anything I can get my hands on. Motor & box in place. Marking the prop shaft for the blades. silver soldering blades in place, held temporary with fire cement.
Pic 1 shows the drop keel & rudder extended. The carrying handle will hold it up until in the water. The stand doing the same when on display. Pic 2 the sail arm servo & the plastic tubes for control lines.
I draw my plans on the sub deck. Used sticks from fast food & coffee shops for the finish deck. Mark edges with marker pen only one edge touching another. Forgot to say in last post, use dividers to transfer measurement to plank
I am in Teignmouth, not Torbay not that far though. Used to sail at Youngs Park. Then Crealy. Not sailing much now as the new pond ( can't call it a lake realy) at Canonteign falls doesn't fit my boats. That is why I am building Irene. ( build blogs).
I have used balsa for the planks, covered with resin inside. Last plank going in, as shown I start with the garboard strake and the top plank & work towards the bilge. To decide the width of the planks, I rap a paper over each frame & mark the length & number. On an A4 paper mark 1/2" spaces across the top staring at the middle. Mark the same number on the bottom at 1/4", join top to bottom. Place the frame length paper across until the length touches the out side lines, draw a line across at this point. After each frame has been done cut out a strip 1/8 each side of the lines. This needs to be replicated one each side of the hull & pasted on each frame. As I fit a plank first remove the paper up to the next mark, fit the plank to this. One red arrow shows the only stealer in the original ship, which I replicated. Other shows the zinc protection against the anchor.
Have to turn the boat over for the planking. Resting on a pillow, this allows it to rest in any position & can be hit with a hammer if required. Can't do this with a stand. At the bow can be seen part of the steel keel, the rest pivots down from here.
Yes in all cases, scratch every thing, paint & glue is all I buy. The motor out of a R.C. car installed because new pond has trees hanging over more than half the bank. All my other sail boats are sail only, impossible to sail in these conditions. Two steam driven paddle steamers also. All scratch harbour.
Irene still sailing but very much altered, as she burnt down to the water line. My model will be as in 1930s. Built 1909 in Bridgwater, my home town, that is the inspiration. I have a few photos, a rough drawing & her measurements. I sometimes draw my own plans or as this time work from the drawing & photos. I am using a two sided home made scale rule, red for drawing & black on other side for model.
I am the Hammer, so called because if I can't do it with a hammer no one can. As you say screwdriver, claw doubles as an axe, chisel, spanner & nail extractor, the length of 14 inches the distance between studs & rafters, and if hit hard enough makes a beautiful 1 1/8 hole. That's all that comes to mind at present. Hammer
Meany modellers don't realise that a steam engine running free will use a lot more steam than when it is under load. Me included when I started. I added extra tubes to my boiler, for more steam. But later found it was unnecessary.
Not knowing any thing about Belle Margot I goggled and it took me to you blog on this site. So a French kit? Is that right. I think she would look better without the extra gaff sail. Looks to much like a bat wing, that is just my opinion. The spars painted brown would also help.