Electronic engineering, well you must be far more intelligent than an old carpenter. I will look at the Proxxon range & turn green with envy. I have been retired 21 years on a private pension. Not index linked. 😱
Thanks for your comments appreciated, Doug. Unfortunately I don’t have a milling cutter smaller than 3mm. The slot is only 1.5. I will have a look at your build. Gina my daughters name. I also don’t have a rotary table. I needed to cut the curved slots in the regulator- reverser. So with a fiddle I managed, with the vice which can turn. Stuck to a square of brass (super glue). Careful measuring so the centres all line up, including vice pivot. 3mm cutter in use Doug. The two parts of the regulator parted off 1in brass rod. Something learned doing this with a fixed steady, place card between tool and steady. Stop chips getting in the steady & jamming it. Silver soldered the pipes to block. Did have to drill one out after, even being mean with the solder. And carbon on the end of pipe.
Keyed one web & gear to the shaft. Thought I would drill into the joint but the drill kept drifting off the chrome. So drilled as close as I could each side. Then diamond file to make it into a slot. cut a wedge & hammered it in. Probably fix other side with epoxy on final assemble.
Companionway & skylights. I took a strip of clear plastic, this cam off packaging of some sort. Strips of wood stuck on with contact adhesive. (evo stick) Scored the corners bent around fitted in place. It fits so will remove & paint wood white. Then stick hard wood strips on the out side.
Started the separator tank. Well cut a tube & a space it will just fit, I hope. If not I have a smaller gas tank, in another boat, but like to keep it there. The paddle wheel looks crooked in the photo it is not, blame the ipad lenses
Some times I am stupid. No need for extra bends on the pipes. All I needed to do was turn the engine over putting the pipes on the other side. Clear of every thing. I have threaded studs in the passage holes drilled from the side & end to form the steam ways. Fixed with metal-epoxy, trim when set. Also started the bed.
Made a bracket for the bottom of engine. The two holding screws block the holes drilled for the ports, the other two will have studs. The bracket at the other end will be fitted by trial & error. I had a fright thought the shaft gear was going through the deck. but as seen just got away with it. Fitted the pipes towards the regulator - reverser. Those 10BA screw head look big in the photo! I will have to cut and fit bends as they foul the gas tank as they are. No one has asked how the cylinders will be kept against the frame. I have several plans see which is best, soon.
Hub made for the shaft gear. Some will notice I am using 10BA slotted counter sunk screws, this is because bought at a show by mistake. So must use them up. The layout of the engine room can be seen now. Gas tank can be removable from ther ,for filling. The engine will not be at such a steep angle. I also have to find room for a separator. O yes the boiler moves back 1/4in when fixed.
If I make another set of wheels I would use brass strip, not the bronze spring material I had this time. I could silver solder the main parts then. I would also try one strip around each size, mark the holes, then use as patterns for the rest. Then soldering them afterward.
All parts of the engine made. It is set at the angle it will be installed in the boat. The regulator- reverser will probably be mounted remotely, but how knows. The gland nut drilled down a solid core in the cylinder for better alignment I hope. Have to hold the nut when drilling other wise it will undo.
Almost done pistons & rods. I had to revert to threading the rods into the pistons. Had a disaster with silver soldering them. Holding rod in the lathe turning the piston true to the rod. I had upset the temper, both rods snapped. I had no stainless of that size left. Had to turn down larger diameter. I had a home made traveling steady, so very easy. All other photos taken to day lost in computer somewhere. Take more tomorrow.
Trouble with big pictures all the rough bits can be seen. I will be smoothing & polishing when construction complete. Made the crank webs first glued the together, super glue, drilled the holes. Unfortunately they fell apart so had to use bolts to file to shape. Soldered the gear & pin, used an aluminium stubb to hold gear in place. Solder won’t stick to it of course. Marked the ports in the frame with gauge. Not drilled yet will do that in mill. Using a hat pin as a centre finder.
A little more done on the engine. Steam ports & pivot holes drilled in cylinders. Oil light bronze bearing ready to fixed. Piston rods ready I will be silver soldering piston blanks in place. Then with the rod in chuck turn the blanks to fit. Chrome crank shaft, pin & web in the picture ready for cutting. The strip of ali with four holes will mark the steam ports in the frame. when the crank is fitted. The small gears fit between the bearing & crank web. As I said before this will give the chance to change ratios if the low is to low.
End caps fitted to cylinders. Drilled & tap 10BA. Marked the centre for pivot hole. I use marker pen cheaper, than engineer's blue. Only two screws on the caps, might be considered poor. That is one reason I have made them thicker than normal. the other reason will give more cover to the ports, as they will be very near the end. Not much time in shop, at the pool with grand kids.
Thanks for replying Doug. Steam is simple I wish I understood electronics. It will be come clear soon I hope. The steam passages inside the frame are the difficult bits t o explane. The 4 holes in the end drilled 1-1/4ins along the frame they have to miss the pivot hole & connect to holes in the port face to be drilled later. I do like to design my own engines.
Original Standard sadly distorted when silver soldering together I got it to hot. A change of plan I now intend have two output gears one at 3to1 the other at 5to1. Three to one is my normal preference. But the 12 floats (paddles) are very close together so will start with 5to1. If this is slow can use 3to1 without much trouble. I have remade the standard, Second attempt soldered the bar then machined it after, this stopped any distortion. Stainless pivot bar fitted, will cut out inner section later. Large hole for removable crank bearing. Just the exit holes to the ports to drill when the crank it finished & blank off the 4 ports at entry end.
David thanks for reply. On the wheels I used this small blow torch. Small flame but very hot at point. Temperamental to light. My technique is to listen to the gas escaping, lighting when strong. I also have three soldering irons of different strengths which I used on the dull plating.
I have added wood to the outer edge of the deck, (the scuppers) it projects out from the hull, forming the knuckle. That's what I call the half round strip around the hull, another needed below the sponsons, this one just stuck on. There is a raised section over the rudder arm, with a grating. Small gratings can be a problem, here is a solution, not my idea but a good one. A plastic hit & miss air vent, D.I.Y. store. I cut it with a band saw, as the blade cools down, were a jig saw melts it back again.
Milled the frames from square bar for the engine. Drilled the pivot hole & hole to take the bearing. Second photo shows the layout. The gearing is lower than me previous models at 5.7 to 1. I have used 3.5 to 1 before. We will see.
Started work on the engine. Drilled & turned the cylinders & end caps off centre. Simply done by packing one jaw of the chuck. The reason so I can mill down the port face to increase the width. (arrow & black mark) Also reducing the amount of metal, reducing start up condensation.
Having used spring bronze, (Thanks Derek) I wish now I had used brass & silver soldered the joints. I will have to epoxy the floats in place now. Don't want them to melt the rest. Can't say I altered the plan because there isn't one. But I dished the inner wheel more than the outer in the end.
May be someone may want to make paddles using this method. If you do & you have a lathe should be no problems. First turn wooden blanks & mark centre & number of spokes required. Rap strip brass around the former cut & join to a tight fit. it is important as this will keep them the same size. Align the drill accurately to the spokes. Drill one & pin it with a short piece of spoke material, so the strip doesn't move wile drilling rest. The centre hub was divided in the lathe. On assemble three spokes in my case immediately aligned the rings, that is if the holes are right. If not fettling is the order of the day. I soft soldered mine as the structure is inherently strong. Note soldered away from the marks on blanks, to preserve them. The dishing can be seen on the finished upright wheel. This was achieved by a thick washer under the hub, & clamping the outer ring down on to the former. I did try bending the spokes before fitting. But had trouble as the rings didn't align automatically. Clean up by hand. Only Three more to make.