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Soldering almost finished. I have used two different melting point solders, I found that very useful. Tip don't keep you legs under the solder point, OW! The foam mould removed along with the wooden frame. Will be replacing the frame around the deck level, and the two bulkheads each side of the engine room. Bulkheads will be recut 15mm deeper, to allow for the extra depth to accommodate the different boiler. This will be cut to the mark, the stick is on the shaft line. keeping the shorter section. Need to clean up the outside and stop the leaks, Yes there are a few, but then to few to mention.
I said on post until the plating finished. Well finished one side, just three more on the other. Drilling the portholes with a cone drill. Holding with grips don't want to cut my fingers. Sized to fit brass tube, (chromed will skim off) That will be the surrounds, fitted after finished painting the hull.
I usually use coffee stirring sticks. But at this scale far to wide. I cut 3/32" strips off a 7/8" plank. Stuck them back together with a mixture of P.V.A. & acrylic black paint. Clamping over the whole length. Next day cut down the opposite way to about 1/16 & sand to a finish. Mark in the joints & nails with a pen. The planks could be any width required, & the black joints aren't to big.
The plating is going essayer with every plate, just a slow job. Finished the garboard strakes & the keel. A brass rod joins the bow. At the rudder post a tube for the rudder stock. No more on plating until it is complete. Unless someone has a question.
Over the weekend I had been thinking maybe it would be easer to epoxy the plates together. Having almost finished the 2 bottom strakes I will continue soldering. Finding it easer with each plate, as I learn, little tricks. Cleaning the plates with a sanding drum (dermal), keep the plate flat on the bench. Otherwise the plate will cruel up and destroy the sand paper. Don't put to much solder on the iron, or I get lumps of solder as it runs down. I am now holding the plates in place with masking tape. That is working well. Two strakes are taking almost half a can, as there are 12 strakes I will cut up 2 more cans.
The patient slept most of yesterday, so managed a little play. Cut and joined 3 plates, beet to shape on the padding on my stool. Cleaned the edges with sand paper & steel wool. Tinned where they join, big soldering iron is ideal. Seeing as I may have success I will now fit edging around the top to strengthen the edge of the tin. The reason for tin plate, I have a plan of the Duchess of Fife specifying this method. I was afraid to try before now.
Drawn the plans on the sub deck, no problems there. Started the plating always work from the stern, unfortunately the most difficult part. But if I can manage here should be no problems with the rest. Cleaned off the tin with brake cleaner, before & after shown. Work will be delayed a little as I have my nurses uniform on again. My wife has just had her 5th opp in 4 years, if I can look after her half as god as she looks after me I will be doing ok.
Ply for the deck veneer on both sides now. I am hoping this will set the shear on the model without fixing. It will be removable as with steam plenty of room & quick access is required. the marks on the foam are the run of the plates.
Marky, this is only the armature for me to build the hull on as I may plank it & add ribs later as in a clinker hull. But the present intention is to make it of tin plates soldered together. I originally intended to make T.C. at 1/2"= 1ft all the way back in 2013. I made an engine & boiler for it but got involved with other things. The boiler is to big now, the engine will fit but will a boiler that fits supply enough steam for it we will see. I will often change tack, can't see plan as there isn't one. Engine can be seen running here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PsbzyY5hjQ And the Duke of Devonshire engine here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtMKpGHblHc
Cut off most of the excess foam with a knife. Then into the garden standing up wind, removed the rest with a blacksmith's rasp. Took about 5 minuets. Started on the deck will be making my own ply, consisting of 1/16" balsa with hard wood veneer on the bottom & deck planks on top.
Right I better get up to date. Laid the keel fitted the box for the engine room & a temporary plank at deck level. The engine room scale size as I hope to fit out the saloons. The poly foam cut out 2 for each section, the silver backing removed except for one side. Each pair is then stuck together & reduced to fit between the stations. The centres cut out to help remove all later. Having stuck this all together I will be knocking off the lumps until the silver backing at the stations shows. I hope this makes sense?
I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2 paddlers before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. Increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.
[Score: 5/10] 35" IRENE Capable of 2mph and a runtime of 30mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 30mm) Geared to a from printer (4 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) Batteries - Comments: Irene is still in existence, now Irene of Bridgwater. I have shown her as in 1930's. Built from my own plans, plank on frame. Will be mostly sail, the motor for emergencies.
Sent away for some rigging cord. After waiting a week it arrived, well I got it wrong to thin. So I have decided to make a rope walk. Then I can make exactly what I want. Found a set of gears from my rubbish, probably out of an old printer. Turned axels to fit the bore with a sharp point on the end. Placed a small gear against the large on top of 3/4 ply. with the axial in each tap with hammer & gives the spacing. draw a circle & divide by three. Drill the holes starting with a small drill, then one of the correct size. Cut the point off axels push through the holes. An angel cut on the axels of the small gears where they protrude through the ply. These will hold the cord, & the tension will hold the gears in mesh. I am using an off cut of decking board for the track. That's the Whorls finished. Just the Topper & Looper to follow soon.
First photo a hit & miss vent, cut to make gratings, painted streaky brown. This is not my idea, but its a good one. The hawser hole finished & the stern ready for filler & paint. Will finish hull paint before completing topgallant rail. Although I have a stand still using the pillow, as it makes a good pin cushion.
The cunning plan for the sails. Heming & stitching is difficult to get anywhere near to scale, unless the scale is large. So I experimented with the flying jib, worked very well. Except I have the bolt rope on the wrong side. I had tried this on glass before but the glue puddled showing badly. Using the Paper pattern cut out the cloth ( I use ticking) With at least 1/2" all around. Mine was washed & ironed. This was because it has been folded in a drawer since the last boat. Cut 4 Teflon blocks & drilled 2 holes ( Teflon cut from an old chopping board). A panel pin through holes one up one down. Place paper pattern on a board, nail the blocks so the nail sticking up is on the point. The other nail is clear of pattern, this will allow the block to pivot. Wind a string that has been soaked in PVA (water resistant type) around the nails. The cloth is slightly dampened with a spray, not to much or it will be to heavy & also the glue could run. Push the nails up through the cloth letting it sag again not to much. When dry remove it from board, cut off the excess cloth as tight as possible to the string. I then mark the panels with pencil. I do this on both sides, after the first side I tape it to the window so I can see & get them the same. Then give sail a coat of very watery coat of PVA, some mixed with acrylic paint. Seen on my model Flying Foam I had over done it a bit.
Here is a trick I am proud of. The cast hawser hole in the bulwarks can be difficult to carve. This is the easy way. Drill a hole down the centre of a dowel, of a suitable size. Cut off the end at a sharp angle, then a slice at a slightly less angle. Then cut in half across the shortest point, turn one piece over & glue back together. (right hand side No 4) A bit of sanding jobs a good'un. Coming together. Yes but its the little bits that take the time.
First the hand rail fitted then bottom plank on bulwarks, then chain plates. then the rest of the planks, Around the stern the planks are vertical. Started on the topgallant rail. Also made a vent for the engine room, from the handle of a milk container.
Thought I would have ago at the fittings for the booms. The bands around the mast made as before ( bore a bar to fit & part off). Solder a lug on place on a mandrill together & drill pivot hole, so they are the same. The barrel, drill down the centre of a 3/16th rod to fit a 3/32 rod. Solder on a lug wile soldering the rods together. Notice the small rod protrudes farther out at the bottom. This is so as I take the tension of the sail the top can pull out freeing the barrel, allowing the sail to be rolled around the boom. The lug is drilled 10BA clearance. The rod in the centre of the boom is turned from hexagon bar, a saw cut down the centre of the remaining hexagon. Drilled & tap 10BA & clearance one side. Now looking in my old gears, thinking of a size to make the reefing drum a stroke of luck. I found the wheels from a correction tape dispenser just the job. Made the stanchions in the 4 jaw. A jig to get the holes the correct distance from the out side of the hull. As the hull planks are 3" & the bulwark planks only 1" the do not run up flush as nearly all models show.