Rails fitted just to see how they look. Remove and paint when the aft section is at this stage. Etching primer for copper & brass. I will cut off the excess below after final fitting. The speaking tube also fixed.
On to the railings. I am using striped electrical wire. Free & easy to solder, and different sizes. The only drawback it is a little soft. The hardest job is getting it straight. This is done in vice & between fingers.( fingers not in vice) I also flatten the stanchions where rails cross. The long silver is the flagstaff at the bow, half way along the section being made. Held in a jig to solder, saw cut hold stanchions & nails stretch rails. The tape was to hold rails against stanchions. This was not needed as I pushed them down with a screwdriver as I removed the soldering iron.
Holes drilled spokes cut & fitted, stuck with super glue. Don't want silver from solder showing. I made a mistake, should have drilled the holes before removing the waste. The drill kept skidding side ways off the centre boss. Should have just cut a grove around the boss, to see how things where going. Any way got over that. Skimming off the boss so the spokes lay level. Then made a cap to fit over them. Note the cocktail stick keeping holes aligned. Drill this out when complete. Marked the handles for length in the lathe. cut & file them before patting off.
Need a change from wood work. I don't know if the helm was wooden or brass. I do know that brass was very popular on later paddlers, so brass it is. starting with a 1ins rod I turn the end so. I mark the spokes with a pointed tool, divided by my home made arrangement. A change wheel is fixed to back end of main shaft. In this case a 40, for 8 divisions. I could do with a cross drill on the tool post, but don't have an accurate one. I will have to drill the holes in the mill.
I have tried to run the engine on air, but failed. I soon found the problem. I had designed the ports to be in from the end of the cylinder, to give better cover. I knew I would need a slot cut in the cylinder wall, to get steam past the piston. I had completely forgotten to do this. The photo shows the slot cut in this end of cylinder now. The photo is a close up showing all the scratches. The rough looking wall of cylinder are not that bad. they are a good thing as they will hold oil preventing wear. Well that is the theory.
Engine room layout. A very tight fit, will be challenging to operate. The servo for regulator control will be under the forward saloon stairs. There is a bolt into the regulator through the baulkhead. Silicone pipe joining the exhaust copper, exiting up what on original, was the safety valve exit. Normal model practice is for exhaust inside the funnel. I have found this can but the flame out, when excess water runs down into fire tube. True steam out the funnel looks good but only shows on cold days. The copper steam feed pipes need connections made, & lagged. The brass circle will be the oiler. Gas pipe to make. When that is finished it will be test time on the bench. Sh*t or bust😱😱
Continuing with the separator. For anyone who is not familiar with a separator. The feed tube goes in to the top about 3/8" & the exit tube about a 1/4". So the oil & water can not turn quick enough & falls to the bottom. The empty tube touches the bottom & is normally shut off. When opened & exit shut off, steam will empty contents. Of course I still have the base to fix. The photo on window board, also shows my granddaughters steam engine, made for me. Proud granddad
Sure dimples are more secure. Guess I am just lazy. Here is the adjustable frame to keep cylinders against port faces. Still in a rough state rushing to get it together for photo. Fettling & polish tomorrow.
Engine almost complete. Just the springs & fittings for holding the faces together. On the shaft can be seen the spacers that rest against the bearings in the hull keeping the wheels & gear in place. The flats on the shaft to stop grub screws tuning are all inline. I can see the gear is correct line up the wheel will also be right.
Removed more metal from the engine frame. ran a bull nose cutter along the joint of the two brass squares. the joint can't be seen now. I have lapped the port faces to the cylinders. Given the rest a good polish.
Electronic engineering, well you must be far more intelligent than an old carpenter. I will look at the Proxxon range & turn green with envy. I have been retired 21 years on a private pension. Not index linked. 😱
Thanks for your comments appreciated, Doug. Unfortunately I don’t have a milling cutter smaller than 3mm. The slot is only 1.5. I will have a look at your build. Gina my daughters name. I also don’t have a rotary table. I needed to cut the curved slots in the regulator- reverser. So with a fiddle I managed, with the vice which can turn. Stuck to a square of brass (super glue). Careful measuring so the centres all line up, including vice pivot. 3mm cutter in use Doug. The two parts of the regulator parted off 1in brass rod. Something learned doing this with a fixed steady, place card between tool and steady. Stop chips getting in the steady & jamming it. Silver soldered the pipes to block. Did have to drill one out after, even being mean with the solder. And carbon on the end of pipe.
Keyed one web & gear to the shaft. Thought I would drill into the joint but the drill kept drifting off the chrome. So drilled as close as I could each side. Then diamond file to make it into a slot. cut a wedge & hammered it in. Probably fix other side with epoxy on final assemble.
Companionway & skylights. I took a strip of clear plastic, this cam off packaging of some sort. Strips of wood stuck on with contact adhesive. (evo stick) Scored the corners bent around fitted in place. It fits so will remove & paint wood white. Then stick hard wood strips on the out side.
Started the separator tank. Well cut a tube & a space it will just fit, I hope. If not I have a smaller gas tank, in another boat, but like to keep it there. The paddle wheel looks crooked in the photo it is not, blame the ipad lenses
Some times I am stupid. No need for extra bends on the pipes. All I needed to do was turn the engine over putting the pipes on the other side. Clear of every thing. I have threaded studs in the passage holes drilled from the side & end to form the steam ways. Fixed with metal-epoxy, trim when set. Also started the bed.
Made a bracket for the bottom of engine. The two holding screws block the holes drilled for the ports, the other two will have studs. The bracket at the other end will be fitted by trial & error. I had a fright thought the shaft gear was going through the deck. but as seen just got away with it. Fitted the pipes towards the regulator - reverser. Those 10BA screw head look big in the photo! I will have to cut and fit bends as they foul the gas tank as they are. No one has asked how the cylinders will be kept against the frame. I have several plans see which is best, soon.