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    hecrowell
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    Member No.#4582
    RegisteredπŸ“…27th Oct 2017
    Last OnlineπŸ“…17th Sep 2020
    CityπŸ“Saint John
    CountryπŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦Canada
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    PostsπŸ’¬58
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    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Colin H ( Commodore)
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Naxos - Paint Shop
    2 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Took the old girl into the paint shop today. Hull is a tan colour with teal roof and white superstructure
    Now waiting for the portholes to come in then Will do the window glazing (plastic, of course) And paint the interior.
    So far, so good, and I am actually quite proud of my β€œgirl”
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - 20/11/14
    5 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Was a busy day for real life things so just put the top rail and tidied up a few other things. Also, removed the decking experiment - didn’t like it. Will get some 1/8 x 3/8 basswood For decking.
    The coffee is to give you guys the impression that I don’t just work on my boat ..... I do other things as awll, haw, haw, haw!
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Decking
    7 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This is more or less an experiment for me. Using the same width decking as I used for planking. Laid most of the fwd decking and sanded it nice and flat. Dressed the joints with lead pencil to make it look somewhat like deck caulking. As one member reminded me - its only a fishing boat, not a yacht. Br fussy, but don't worry too much if a planking seam is showing a bit or a little dent.
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Hull done (almost)
    10 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Except for a few flaws, the hull is almost finished. There is one planking seamline just about at the waterline on the port side which I will take care of once I float test tonight. I am sure no leakage there because of several coats of varathane plus a coat or two of white primer.
    Pictures of float testing forthcoming. Will weight her down good with a couple bottles of water and let her float (I hope) for ten minutes or so.

    THE NAXOS FLOATS!!
    After 1 hr in the tub weighted down, no water was shipped except for a minor leak in one of the water bottles I was using to set her down. I think that some water seeped up through the Stuffing box hole which I had plugged, but not enought to cause me concern.
    From what I could see because it was a bathtub test, she sure looked good Sitting in the water. I am sure I saw a smile on her face - I know there was one on mine.
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    πŸ“ Naxos - Float testing
    10 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Tomorrow is the day I have been waiting for. After several coats of varathane, several rub-downs with 180 grit then three coats of white undercoat, float testing will take place tomorrow. I see some imperfections in the finish, so now seeking comments on what to use to fill them.they are small and some consist of a layer or two of filler that didnt ger feathered properly. I am considering an automotive filler called bondo.
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Planked
    13 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    FINALLY, completed the planking. Now for sanding, spot filling, more sanding, then repeat several times. Picking up the varathane or polyurethane Today and ginin’ er Hell, wet sanding and more of the same.
    The name on her prow is temporary for the benefit of my dear Niece who is full of the Devil. At my sons wedding she put on a pair of shorts and a skimpy top and pole danced using the Center pole of the large dome tarp which we had set up in our back yard. She named my boat in her honour.

    EDIT
    Had a couple of low spots near the stem. No choice but to fill them. Didnt want to do that, but what the heck - shes going to be painted anyhow.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Build continues
    14 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Dave
    Mighy fine Lookin’ Artur. Doing a great job. Is this your first?
    Artur was the boat that I had planned to build, but β€œchanged horses” and chose NAXOS. I am rather happy I did that because it provides a build blog for each fishing boat type. I sort of wish now that I had a bit more experience In planking, because I now see how it all fits together and with better glue (cyano) I think I could a better job.

    All the best to you in your build, and I am looking forward to see the final product.

    Cheers
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Planking
    15 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Man ol man! What a painstaking process this is! Cutting, trimming, fitting:More Cutting, trimming, fitting: then wating for glue to sei before the next piece.
    i have learned a lot yet still so much more to learn. I suspect that tomorrow will finish the planking.
    All in all,I have enjoyed every bit of the build.

    EDIT
    One thing I have learned is - if there is a next time, I will be using cyano glue!!
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    πŸ“ Naxos - continuing planking
    18 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Well, today I began the task of planking the bottom - doing it the way that I have chosen. Right or wrong. It will require a number of wedge fillers ( forget what the technical term is) but to my untrained eye, looks kike it will work out OK.
    The planks I have are cut from a 5 ft cedar fenceboard and therefore not long enough to make two out of one. I am putting the join where there is least amount of pressure grom bending.
    Sure wish I had chosen cyanno glue thereby eliminating the need for clamping and waiting for the glue I am using to set up. Oh well .... live and learn.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - Aug 27/2020
    18 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hey Steve
    Grat idea. Now I gotta grab my tape measure, pencil and paper and do some figuring before I kill too many of my planks.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - Aug 27/2020
    18 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hey! Steve
    Wow. This is great info, and I can see now that likely the most time consuming Part of the project. Now I need to sit down with my pencil and paper and start doing some math work. Wish me luck.
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    πŸ“ Naxos - Aug 27/2020
    21 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    More work on my girl today. Happy that I chose this model for my build. It has been challenging, enjoyable and a learning experience. My tool supply for model building is very, very scarce, so make do with what I do have.
    The front view indicates that the cabin is not straight, but thats because it is just Precariously sitting on the carlings For the photo shoot.
    Will I ever build another model? Sure hope so, but none will compare to this, my very first.
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    πŸ“ Working on tapered planking
    22 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This seems to be the toughest part - tapering planks. Have read about this and watched several videos, but don't quite get it...using my own meager skills to do it the best I can. Will work it out.
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    πŸ“ Sealing interior against leaks
    25 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I am wondering if there is an alternative to fibreglass resin To sealing the interior of the hull. The resin is very messy and as far as I know, anything that is used to apply the stuff is like a Bic pen - you throw it away when done. I shouldnt be so fussy, but can’t help it,its my nature
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    πŸ“ NAXOS IS COMING TO LIFE
    26 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    more work today on the NAXOS. Finished the planking from the deckline to the gunwale. Waiting for glue to dry then sanding, sanding. Kind of proud of my work so far and except for a few fixes below the waterline, I think that at long last my dream of an RC boat may be a reality.
    Very interesting project and enjoying every second of work. Very time consuming and I am being as fussy as I can to make her look good.
    Right, wrong or indifferent, I found that my roll of waxed nylon lacing twine is my version of clamps which hold the planking joints together nice and tight. The odd C clamp doesnt hurt as well.

    Until next time.......
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    πŸ“ Back at it
    26 days ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Its been a few days since any work was done on the NAXOS. I HAD TO TAKE MY granddaughter to Halifax, Nova Scotia to the IWK Hospital. Her plastic surgeon wanted to check her progress after having reconstructive surgery a year ago after a double mastectomy about two years ago. We then continued to my childhood town of Yarmouth Nova scotia where we spent six great days. It was good to see friends and what is left of my family.

    Since being back, I got to work on my β€œbaby” fixing things that needed attention prior to the planking process. I think I whipped her into shape, so will begin planking her.
    Hopefully someone will tell me how to. Treat her inside once I finish planking.
    My idea is to mix up a batch of fibreglass resin and give it to her. Do I need to apply cloth along the keel and formers? I hear that water and the glue I am using (carpenters yellow glue) and water are not a good mix should there be a leak. It would not be good to see planks popping off during the maiden sail.
    Once the hull is planked, I plan on another coat of resin on the outside and then the painting. What is a good paint to use?

    Anyway, heres a few pics showing how she looks now.
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    πŸ“ Planking
    1 month ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    When planking, should it begin at the keel and finish at the sheer or vice versa?
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Naxos - progress
    1 month ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Ian:

    Thank you for that great advice - I am learning here and all input and advice is More than welcome. I think my tablesaw did a pretty good job of ripping the planks - they cut very smothe with just enough roughness to ensure a good glue bond (i hope).

    Heres proof of my work cutting 1/8 x 5/8
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    πŸ“ Naxos - progress
    1 month ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Having made the Hull formers And the Keel, I have done some thinking about Material for stringers, deck opening framing, deck and hull planking. Checking my local building supplies dealer, I came across a couple of pieces of yellow Cedar Fence board without a knot in it. Digging out my trusty old tablesaw, I wanted to find out if it Would be up to the task of ripping planking. I can rip a 1/8” plank with ease if I take my time. The fence board is only 5/8” thick so my planks will be 1/8 X 5/8. Actually, I may rip them a bit on the thick size then run them through my DIY thickness sander. That will take care of any irregularities.

    Added the sheer clamps this morning after attaching the port and starboard temporary form alignment timbers. They are the wide timbers at the top of the formers. Having no suitable clamping devices, I made my own - with flat waxed nylon lacing twine. Not pretty, but it works and holds parts together nice and tight. Used the same tying method for the sheers.

    Next, will install the deck opening material, then the decking. Fairing of the outside will be next followed by ny first attempt at planking. By the way - cedar bends quite nicely if soaked in hot water for a bit.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - Keel Laid
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Notice how my better half allows me to use the kitchen table to do my photography? She has become very interested in this project and is fascinated how a pile of wood pieces can actually turn into something. I even told her About the vegetable steamer expirement...there was no reply...I took that as being good, ha!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin - Nearing completion
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hi Doug
    The usual tube outer sleeve and the shaft itself. He he..all I know for sure is the outer tube is 1/4” OD and the shaft is 3/16” (I think)
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - Keel Laid
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Got all the parts for the keel cut and sanded up so thought I would glue up a bit of it. Well, a bit turned out to be more than a bit, now I await the stuffing box which I will smear with epoxy and slide into the 14” (5mm) slot. Over the next few days I will drill out the weight lightening holes In the frames, sand them and notch for the sheer clamps and keel. The Project is coming along way better than I had anticipated...wonder when I will run up against a brick wall.
    Being new to boat building ans powering them up, I will be looking for advice on electrical power - lead-acid, gell cell or LiPo.

    UPDATE
    Just couldn't hold off...just HAD to mount that inner transom. Funny thing, though - the notches for the sheer clamps were not marked on the plan. Out comes my rotozip if I can ever get it bk from my son.
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    πŸ“ Cabin - Nearing completion
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    This is the cabin which is just about about ready for filler, sanding, window and door glazing and Primer. The build has given me some experience and a bit of confidence for the rest of the build. My excitement grows!

    By the way - it seems there are no local boat modelling clubs near me, so today I placed a community ad looking for prospective modellers. Should be interesting to see what I catch.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: NAXOS - build started
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Hey - c’mon, Ian. The water is fine. Jump in and do it. If you wait, it may never get done....I nearly found that out the hard way!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cabin and wheelhouse for the SAXON
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Much easier to seek forgiveness than it is to get permission. (Hehe)
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    πŸ“ Cabin Coming Along Nicely
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Today, I finally got around to rough fitting of the cabin and wheelhouse. The parts are pinned together with a spot of weldbond Glue - enough to hold things together for sanding and fairing for that slightly curved Cover. The front of the wheelhouse is in the vegetable steamer ( my wife is out for a few hours, he he he) and will try my luck at bending it to shape on the plan. Right wrong or indifferent, I have used 1/8” medium hard balsa for this structure. Wanted Basswood, but none in stock at my supplier.
    How detailed will I be? No idea at this point. I guess it depends on how I feel as construction continues. I will be ordering in som port holes for starters.
    Later today, I will begin cutting the sections for the keel, and gotta order in the stuffing box - it has to be installed as the keel pieces are fit and glued in place.
    Hope to have an update in the next week.
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    πŸ“ Electronize speed controllers
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    I have uploaded information for an ESC for a brushed motor on my NAXOS build blog. I would be happy to move or have it moved by moderator to an ESC blog if it deserves a place within that blog.
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    πŸ“ NAXOS - build started
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Was having huge problems trying to get my mitts on a scroll saw to cut out the formers and other pieces for the NAXOS. Finally, a friend of mine told me that he had one and not only was I able to use it, he told me I could HAVE it! Oh boy! Luck me! He offered to bring it to me, and when he arrived, what was he holding in his hand? A COPING SAW! I thanked him graciously and when he left, gave it a try. Now - you must remember that I am 78, and would really like to finish the NAXOS ( which I am thinking I going to christen Her as β€œthe SAXON”) Before I die. Therefore, I opted to build my scroll saw using a spare jig saw I had laying around. Some scrap wood, a few wood screws and the jig saw produced A very workable tool that will let me cut out the parts required to build the SAXON. So, finally, The official build of my little dream fishing boat from the other side of the world us Now borne. Now for a bit of sanding.......
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    πŸ“ Electronic Speed Control
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Here is an ESC with BEC That I came across some time ago. It was designed and developed by a gentleman in Germany by the name of Claus Poltermann. I have not used the ESC at this time for two reasons: i have not finished It yet and I have no boat In which to install it yet. This is an uncomplicated unit to build, and i have attached documentation and images for this unit with the developers permission. Included is the website link where you can obtain the microprocessor ask questions, and if you are not into fabricating pc boards, Obtain the pc board itself.
    Keep in mind that Claus will not be available until September.


    Speed controller with reverse
    This is a guide to building an electronic cruise control with polarity reversal for ship models. Only readily available standard components are used and the complete documents for the construction and the firmware for the microcontroller are available for free download.
    A speed controller is one of the standard applications in model electronics. The speed controller presented here (actually: "speed controller") for conventional brush motors is up to max. 8 A loadable. It is therefore suitable for ship models that should move at a prototypical speed and is sufficient for most function models. The controller is less suitable for racing boats.
    The following requirements must be fulfilled for a successful replica:
    * Possibility of etching circuit boards. The circuit board is single-layered and therefore easy to manufacture.
    * Availability of a programming device for PIC microcontrollers
    * some experience in soldering
    This speed controller is available in the cp-electronics shop as a kit or as a ready-made module and has the following enhancements compared to the free firmware:
    * PWM frequency selectable (2.5 kHz or 9 kHz)
    * either linear or exponential control characteristics
    All other properties are the same in both versions:
    * Polarity reversal of the motor via relay
    * Supply of the relay via the drive battery
    * simple construction with standard components
    * Operation with 6 V or 12 V driving battery
    * Current carrying capacity max. approx. 8 A
    * sensitive control through 250 speed levels per direction of travel
    * Fail Safe: the engine is switched off in the event of reception errors
    * Motor start protection when connecting the battery
    * galvanic isolation of control and power section
    * Setup function for learning the neutral and maximum position
    Circuit board
    The circuit board is single-layered and easy to manufacture with hobby tools. Please reinforce the conductor tracks that carry the motor current with a soldered bare copper wire. It also makes sense to use base material with a 70 Β΅m copper layer (standard is 35 Β΅m). If necessary, the conductor tracks can also be tinned thick with solder.
    No tiny SMD components are used, so assembly is also possible without a microscope. Every experienced model maker should therefore be able to solder the controller without any problems.
    Circuit description
    The controller is very simple.
    The receiver pulse switches the internal LED of the optocoupler via a transistor, the collector of the internal transistor is placed on an input of the PIC microcontroller. The receiver is thus galvanically isolated from the load circuit, interference signals from the motor cannot get into the receiver. However, the motor should not be carefully suppressed!
    The controller is supplied with a stabilized operating voltage of 5 V from the drive battery via a voltage regulator 7805. If a 6 V battery is used, a low-drop voltage regulator should be used (see parts list).
    An output of the PIC switches the polarity reversal relay via a driver transistor. The relay is powered by the drive battery, so the coil voltage must be adjusted to the voltage of the drive battery. There are suitable relays in both a 6 V and a 12 V version.
    Another output controls the two MOSFETs with a PWM signal, which is generated by the microcontroller depending on the stick position on the transmitter, via a series resistor directly and without an additional driver circuit. The Schottky diode MBR 1645 feeds the current induced in the motor back into the motor during the switch-off phases of the MOSFETs. There are also two LEDs for signaling the setup and for displaying errors.
    Set up
    The setup of the neutral and maximum position values can be adapted to your own remote control system. For this, the jumper "SET" is inserted and the supply voltage (first receiver, then driving battery) is switched on.
    After switching on, the red LED flashes for approx. 5 s, during this time the control stick and the trim must be brought into the neutral position or held there. If the LED goes out, the corresponding value has been permanently saved in the PIC's EEPROM. The green LED then flashes, the joystick must be brought to the maximum position and held there during this time.
    After successful setup, the green LED lights up continuously.
    If, on the other hand, the red LED lights up permanently, there is an error. Possible causes are:
    * no difference between neutral and maximum position. Check whether the speed controller has been connected to the correct receiver channel.
    * the measured pulse length for the neutral position is greater than the length for the maximum position. Then you have to change the transmitter or activate a servo reverse for this channel.
    In the event of an error, the cause must be eliminated and the setup carried out again.
    If the red LED lights up permanently after it has flashed, ie the green LED does not flash during setup, no valid receiver pulses are measured. In this case, check the connection cable and the printed circuit board for errors.
    After completing the setup, the speed controller must be disconnected from the supply voltage for approx. 30 s (the capacitors must be completely discharged). The jumper is now removed and the supply voltage is switched on again. The green LED lights up for approx. 2 s, during this time the stick must not be brought out of the neutral position (tarnish protection). If the green LED goes out, the motor output is activated and the controller is ready for operation.Β 
    The setup can be carried out again if necessary.
    If the red LED lights up in operating mode (SET jumper removed), this indicates faulty receiver pulses and indicates reception interference or a transmitter that is switched off.
    Firmware
    The firmware of the microcontroller does the evaluation of the pulse length, the switching of the relay and the generation of the PWM signal for the power transistors.
    In order to prevent the motor from starting when it is switched on, the stick must be held in the neutral position for approx. 2 s when the power supply is switched on, only then will the motor output become active. The same applies after the engine has stopped due to invalid receiver pulses.
    http://cp-elektronik.de/
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Boat Electrics. Wiring Diagram
    2 months ago by hecrowell ( Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class)
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    Exactly the info that I have been thinking about.
    Good post!
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