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>> Home > Members > jarvo
Registered
15th Mar 2014
Last Online
12th Dec 2017
jarvo

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 2807
Registered 15th Mar 2014
Last Online 12th Dec 2017
City Bredbury Stockport
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 0
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 496
Photos Posted 0
Likes Received 264
Likes Given 58
652 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Etherow model boat club Stockport
Since: 10th Jun 2014
Harbour
Empty Harbour
Fleet Admiral!
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
Top Ranking Member!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 0
Forum Thread 5 35
Forum Post 2 992
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 0
Photos Response 3 66
Video Post 15 0
Video Response 3 36
Build Blog 20 0
Blog Post 5 0
Blog Response 3 327
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 58
Received Likes 2 528
2050 Total Points
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
How do I make Bow Railings by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 days ago
HI Grandpa, If you mean the entire pulpit railing from cabin to the bow and round. First measure the deck, marking where each upright will be, the uprights seem to be the same height, so that part is easy, source some 16g welding rod, (stainless will be to difficult to braze) then shape to the size of the deck, try to keep the bends smooth as it may kink. Second. Get a scrap board bit bigger than your deck, mark each stanchion position and drill holes to match, stand the stanchions in the holes and start to lay the top rail silver solder for strength each stanchion as you get to it, might be easier to work side to side towards the bow, this will stop you burning your fingers!!!! To finish you could have the rails chromed or use a chrome spray paint, can't tell if the rails have feet (small washers) if so add these over the stanchions before you solder the top rail, they will stop them going too deep into the deck, finally drill and glue the railing into the deck, a sod of a job but the look will enhance your model Hope this helps Mark

Theo 2 by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 3 days ago
Such beautiful lines, hope she sails as well as she looks Mark

M.V. TEAKWOOD by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Rowan, just to say, the man who never makes a mistake has not lived!!!! A brilliant solution to a very difficult problem, well thought out and the remedial work to a superb finish. Well done Mark

Twin Esc/Mixer by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
NJP. you can use the mini blade fuses, no problem, the difference is price, standard fuses are about half the price if mini's. Apart from your mounted fuse holders, why not just use crimp spade connectors??? get the right size for the blades no need for a holder or mounting Mark

Model Boats Magazine October November 1986 by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
Skydiver, go on the model boat magazine website, they have the archive to call on. Mark

Another model shop to close. by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 6 days ago
HI Jim, Al's hobbies used to have massive ads in the model mags, and seemed to be doing very well!!!! Mark

M5 Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi John, train shops are common because of a lot of people buying trains track etc, lot of clubs making layouts. Planes are a different story, expensive and breakable so model shops cater for the most popular buyers, (they spend a lot!!!) boats on the other hand don't usually break, sinking is not usually a permanent problem, so little to replace, so poor sales, no demand. Hope your opp goes well and you can get down to the water again Mark

Power Cabling by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
NP, have a careful look inside the fuse holder, check to see if the contacts have corroded or been burnt, also look at the fuse blades they should be shiny and scraped after removal, possible they are just tight, if you look in your car fuse box you should find a little removal tool that clips around the fuse to remove it. Mark

Fairey Huntsman & Swordsman by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 12 days ago
Hi Andy, I have 'twined both the 34" and the 48" Huntsman, i used 600 size motors in the 34, and 850 motors in the 48. Both were very quick, but, the run time was poor, about 10 mins. With modern lipo's or big Nimh batteries they would be a lot longer especially if you used brushless motors. Props, on the 34, they were 35mm x 3 blade brass, on the 48, they were 45mm x 3 blade brass. Sad but i sold them some years ago but now have a 48" fireboat to play with. Mark

Passenger Liner Normandie by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Your eye for detail is superb, your skill is fantastic

Another model shop to close. by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
308. It was like a shrine to modelers across London. Just like HMS in South Croydon. But said in the piece, internet, we use it for the prices, but what a price!!!! Mark, gilty as most of us are

Passenger Liner Normandie by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
WOW, that is some model you are building, looks superb, and with the lights a night sail will be a sight to see Mark

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
NP, give Krick a try, the full price is 535 euros but Krick are very good supplying spares, as you want the whole superstructure they may help. Mark

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Morning Dave, just to update you, Krick are now selling the Happy Hunter kit, I presume they bought the moulds etc from Robbe Mark

Costa coffee planking! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Hi mate, bit late now but if you mix some black powder paint or artists acrylic paint into the pva, the glue dries black and simply sand the excess away to leave the caulk lines, no chance of wonky or lines that have soaked in too far. Mark

Looking for an Aerokits Solent lifeboat by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Built ones are going for about £100 as in the post above, an unbuilt kit about the same price but yours may have some bits missing so, say about £75. As Dave M said the resto in Model Boats mag will drive up the price as people see how to do it. Hope this helps Mark

Power Cabling by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Looking good Mark

Costa coffee planking! by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Had a word with my local coffee shop about the used stirrers, they must think i am barmy!!!! but over a couple of days the sorted me with thousands of the damn things, on another site a tip for staining the planks was cold tea, soaked for a few hours the planks take on the tannin colour and just need drying ready for use. Mark

Happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
No worries mate, have the esc's got a max and min voltage??? they may not work at 6volts, if not then a set of 7.2v NimH packs will be brilliant x2 or possibly 4 packs with a Y lead for each pair, 3300mah packs are going for a good price on ebay at the moment, also have a look at component shop and hobbyking, be sure you are on the uk site to keep the postage down!!!! Wouldn't bother with lipo batteries, SLA or NimH are more user friendly. If you want the H/H superstructure try contacting Krick they now make the kit, took over from Robbe when the went bust. Are the propshafts ok??? withdraw the shafts and lightly oil them get the oil into the inner bearing as well. Mark

Happy hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
The motor units are Robbe EF76 with fitted gearboxes, rated at 6 - 8volts, superb units and very reliable, did you strip and clean the gearboxes as well???? were the photos taken before you cleaned the motors??? The battery space looks to have been fitted with 4 x 6v 4ah batteries, probably giving 6v drive power, might have been 12v. Is there an ESC fitted?? that would give us the final key, apart from the red and black wire in the 4th photo is there any other wiring??? Mark

Footy by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
I agree with Dave, the hull etc is orange but the rudder is nicely finished wood with a blob of epoxy holding the rudder shaft???? also the keel weight has signs of blistering under the paint, has the weight been cut down???? The keel is not removable so the only way is to experiment by adding some extra weight, a couple of photos show a small hole in the balance weight, i wonder if the plug has been missing for some time and some of the lead shot has fallen out???? Dont know a lot about footies but an ounce of lead would make a critical difference Mark

Fairey Marine by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
You are really going to town on this one!!!! Go on the Fairey owners website, do a screen grab and load it to a data stick, take it to a printer doing vinyl printing, such as van sides etc, they will print it for you. PS get some in different sizes for the bows and the air intakes. Just had a thought, try BECC they do modeling stickers, i think they do Fairey Marine, if not contact them for a quote. Just had a look at there website, yes they do them in different sizes in one pack. Mark

Sea Queen Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
Hi Andy, as the boat is in kit form, just get the keel sections, on the drawings they tell you to leave a gap to fit the prop shaft. re-adjust the angle of the gap to about 15 degrees, this will give you room for the motor mount and the length of the prop tube, give yourself enough clearance for the largest prop, 55 - 60 mm, with the motor you are looking at i would go for the 100amp esc not much extra but a lot more security, power wise. Prop shaft, have a look at the Raboesch ball raced shafts from Deans Marine, very good at higher revs. Mark

happy Hunter by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 16 days ago
HI mate, can you post a picture or two of the motors, so we can identify them, give you an idea of battery needs as well Mark

Footy by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Have had a look at the photo's, my thought is with Dave M, the mast is ahead of the keel balance, that is what is forcing the hull round under wind pressure, instead of a counterbalance, the bows are forced down bringing the keel weight even further back with the bows digging in even more. Did you build this model??? if so is there room in the hull to move the keel and its supports close up to the mast?? Mark

Sea Queen Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Is the boat built??? if so try moving the motor towards the stearn, lower the shaft angle, this allows the prop to deliver more thrust to propel the boat, the original boat was designed for an I/C motor with a big flywheel, so needed plenty of clearance from the keel. Measure the distance you have moved the motor and push a dowel etc into the hole for the shaft, deduct the size for the U/J, you then have the size of the shortened shaft lenght Mark

Prop Shaft Grease by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Oil is better, the grease causes drag on the shaft, (guess how i found out!!!) fit an oil tube to the outer shaft and dribble oil in before and after each outing. Mark

More Prop Shaft by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi Andy, the Deans prop shafts are made by Raboesch in Holland, they are superb quality with a roller bearing at the motor end Mark

treatment by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hi John, Lets take your questions one at a time. Surface prep. Close joints are always good but not essential, glueing plastic involves a form of welding, ie the surfaces melt together forming a filler as well as a glue. Plastic weld is a model railway product which is very good, it's a liquid applied with a brush and the pieces are held until the liquid evaporates. Prep all surfaces as there might be release agents and / or fingerprints on the surface, washing up liquid is great for this, also when ready for painting wash again and lightly scuff the surface with fine wet and dry paper, (600 grade). Epoxy. Is not a good glue for plastic hulls and superstructures as they flex and move, epoxy is brittle and will fail over time. Finish painting with a plastic primer, (Halfords) this gives a flexible basecote, then paint as desired, i use car type acrylic paints, if you want a colour not as a car, you can get paint made up to your spec. In short, Liquid poly glue, clean before the build and when ready for paint. Hope this helps Mark

planking by jarvo Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 19 days ago
HI Dennis, just an addition, when fixing your planks, i add some black powder paint to the PVA, then wipe off any excess, when dry a quick sanding gets the grout lines in order Mark