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Hi Wayne, yes i agree he seems bonkers but, he has loads of Youtube videos making 3D models, Planes, as well as Hovercraft, very clued up on the computer printing and programing, have emailed him for a copy of the printer program so hopefully i will be approaching a printer to make me one of these Mark
Hi there, the web lead shows a motor that is either a car heater blower motor or a radiator fan motor, have a word with your local scrap yard, i got three from a ford mondeo for £10. Very powerful and with low power draw, Mark
Had a thought!!! if the planking has lifted slightly try a pointed scraper between the planks, scraping down to the ply, then thin your varnish to allow it to soak into and under the planks, then varnish over all, might stop it happening again Mark
Hi Sonar, if you are running 2 motors, make sure you have good capacity in hand, these are powerful motors and need a good ESC to handle them, i used one with a chinese "50amp" esc and it produced magic smoke within a few minutes, changed to an Electronize and its run for 2 years now Mark
Hi Nick, the smoke you mention, cant be coming from the receiver, it can only come from 1, the wiring, (not thick enough, bad connections) 2, the motor, 3, the speed controler, check all these, try sniffing them, burnt smell. As for the radio gear, some of my club use Tamco, but i prefer Futaba, FHSS T6, going for about £60 on ebay receivers are about £30 so not cheep but very reliable.
Hi Alan, following this thread, your last post might give it away, you were holding the hull stationary, that means it was loading the motor far higher than if it was moving. You said that the coolant was running before you started so it probably was all the time, that could mean the ESC was over loaded and then blew. How long did you hold the hull?? at the sort of power a lipo can give, cooking the ESC would not be hard, even with the cooling water. Dave M could give the proper answer but i think you held on to long. Haverlock also mentioned using a watt meter, i am almost certain that you overloaded the ESC by some considerable margin, i have re-read the other threads, what size prop are you using? with a 40000 rev motor if its loaded too heavily it will just use more power to get itself going, so we are back to the ESC overloaded. Sorry if this has been long winded, it might not help, but less revs and more torque could be the answer
HI Ed, have had a thought, try putting a powerful torch inside the hull, in a dark room you might be able to see were the light is escaping, i would not try the fillet of glue, this may just pass the problem down the seam, Dave M's idea of plasticard angle will not only fix the crack but reinforce the whole area, lot of hassel i know but with the weight of the hull it will only get worse with movement
Hi Ed, its difficult when it happens but hopefully no lasting damage. Have a look at the prop shafts or the rudder posts, they are the most likely candidates. I would not wait to dry the hull, keep the electrics out but balast down to the waterline, use a torch???? the light will shine on the water coming in!!!! look around at the shafts rudders etc, you will be able to see any seepage. Hope this helps to find the cause Mark