Hi Nerys, it will be interesting to see how they finally present her, as there was only the rough sketch of her at the launching. I was impressed with how well the chain came up after the concretion was removed. If I see any updates I'll keep you posted. Might go for a drive and see if I can have a look. She's only about 40 mins away.

JB

Hi Nerys, she was built just before the flat bottomed scows . Here is a bit of history on her. At the bottom of the page is a photo gallery. There are also a few nice restoration pics of NZ vintage yachts on the home page photo tag, in the middle of the right hand list. The truck would probably had to drive almost the length of the beach to get out as there is only 1 real access point (other than the main entrance at the southern end, which the truck would not have been able to access) for most of the length of the beach, there are huge sand dunes, with a huge pine forest covering most of the area behind them.

As you can see from the photos, they had quite a job getting the boat out, as the 'road' is just a thick sand track used by fishermen using 4 wheel drives. I've driven down the length of the beach at 80mph in the frame of a sports car I was building (mid 70s),- can't do that now as there have been too many accidents recently and idiots driving fast through the beach goers (popular surf beach) and the beach is mostly now closed to traffic. Very few people out there in the 70s, and you were pretty much on your own as you got further north up the beach.

The entrance to the harbour just north of the wreck has a very dangerous bar at times, lots of boat lost there.

JB

https://www.classicyachtcharitabletrust.org.nz/trust_boats.htm?boat_id=17

🔗

They were pretty gentle with it Mike, but it was in surprisingly solid condition and could be slung onto the truck (the truck belongs to NZs oldest boat moving company so they know what they're doing). Also, they were having to work quickly in between tides. Being that it was completely buried in sand for most of its life, the lack of oxygen and damage from the elements probably helped to preserve it. Also it would not have moved at all since it was buried (which happens quite quickly to objects on Muriwai beach, (being on the often wild West coast) which extends for around 60km and the sand is a black iron-sand.

Once removed a fuel tank from a VW beetle there in the late 70s, which was buried up to the windows and just a shell, after being rolled around in the surf for a few days and shedding all its' bits. Fitted the tank in my modified Ford popular.

JB

Looking great so far Steve, takes a lot of patience to tackle those projects, with so many parts to them. If I tried one of those, it would very quickly become a 'flying boat'😁

JB

Lucky you built a strong boat Roger😁👍 She's running much better now and looks good. 100c will give you a truckload of power !! You can never have too much power👍😁

JB

The Daring, a New Zealand 2 masted schooner buried in the sand since 1865, was found on Muriwai Beach when the tide uncovered it recently. It was dug up in reasonable condition and transported by truck to Auckland to be restored as a museum exhibit. Would have been a nice looking ship in her day.

Article here https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/124722783/1800s-shipwreck-t...

https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/124722783/1800s-shipwreck-the-daring-to-be-reassembled-next-to-mangawhai-museum

🔗

Superb, even down to the catch plate on the door !

JB

Re shackle key-

Hi Graham, was going to suggest the flattened tube idea, but thought it might be too easy for you😁. I actually made a larger long version from heavy brass tube years ago, to remove the jet from my old Swedish Sievert kero blow torch.

JB

Top stuff Sy, your detailing is brilliant👍 Hope we'll get to see a vid of the sea trials soon, now you are all allowed out to play😁.


JB

Probably the reason clubs everywhere are declining, you find narcissistic power tripping little Hitlers in almost every club with a "Now hear this" attitude, who think everyone should obey them. Every club I've been in has had one or two, which is why I don't bother with clubs now, (I'm not paying good money to be told how I will 'play' with my model,- plane or boat) I just please myself now and sail/fly where I can and maintain common sense safety habits (especially with planes).

There are virtually no boat clubs in NZ now, and a dwindling number of plane clubs round the country. These are overseen by the NZMAA (New Zealand model Aeroplane Association) which has its' own Hitlers deciding what modellers must do (rules etc) without any real discussion with those affected. The whole modelling scene has been pretty much destroyed by rules, and young people are just not bothering. At least we can still take our boats to virtually any public pond, (but a lot harder with planes now) whenever we want, but the tree huggers, moaners and control freaks will one day probably kill that enjoyment, along with everything else fun they have destroyed. Happy happy happy, joy joy joy😁

JB

Beautiful job Hillro, shows a man with much patience (and small fingers)😁. Well worth the time taken, not a model to be rushed.

JB

Re A twist shackle___

Hi Martin, they also help stop your halyard twisting, and if you want to orientate a block in a particular direction where 2 fittings (eg mast and deck) might be at 90Deg to each other. There are many different types of blocks with attachment points 1. in line with the sheaves, 2. 90 Deg, (where these might be used) or 3. swivelling.

Also to do with swivelling is a foresail drum furler, which has a swivel on the upper mast fitting and attaches under the drum to the foredeck fitting. Sail is pulled out with the sheet and furled with a cord wound on the drum. - Just in case you asked later😁 We'll have you sailing yet😁 (lol) Pic- furler set-up on my small yacht. (could easily be done on a model, but haven't seen one yet)

JB

This thing better float Graham, remember the ballast is supposed to go in the bottom😁. How are the fingers after all that? Now you are going to have to make a scale shackle key to go with all these😁. Don't want to put any ideas in your head though😉😁

JB

Showing off again Graham?😁 very clever👍

JB

Didn't notice you were doing swivel blocks Graham, fantastic👍👍

JB

Very different and clever👍👍 and that will get Martin all excited for sure 😁

JB

Sounds like you need a custom 'sit down' work bench Nerys, with everything handy.

JB

Coming along really well Nick,-like your battery boxes,-very tidy👍 Hatch and wheelhouse are looking great also.

JB

Martin and Colin are on the job Doug😁

JB

Very cryptic Martin😁

JB

Re Dilithium crystals, quite simple Doug (description)-

Dilithium is depicted as an extremely hard crystalline mineral that occurs naturally on some planets. It is believed that this material exists in more than three dimensions at the same time and this is somehow related to its properties. When placed in a high-frequency electromagnetic field, eddy currents are induced in its structure which keep charged particles away from the crystal lattice. This prevents it from reacting with antimatter when so energized, because the antimatter particles never actually touch it. Therefore, it is used to contain and regulate the annihilation reaction of matter and antimatter in a starship's warp core, which otherwise would explode from the uncontrolled annihilation reaction. Though low-quality artificial crystals can be grown or replicated, they are limited in the power of the reaction they can regulate without fragmenting, and are therefore largely unsuitable for warp drive applications. Due to the need for natural dilithium crystals for interstellar travel, deposits of this material are, much like real-world equivalents such as oil, a highly contested resource, and as such, dilithium crystals have led to more interstellar conflict than all other reasons combined.

I've booked a flight on Starship One to pick some up next week LOL (sorry Roger, it's all Dougs fault !)😁

JB

Re KVA , what KVA Doug😂?? comes from chopping trees all day and trying to type stuff at around 6AM without having been to bed😁 Duly noted and corrected sir (although harnessing the space - time continuum and introducing a quantum geodesic reverse gamma discharge system might do the trick) LOL

JB

Hi Bruce, another NZ boat mover uses this clever hydraulic arm pad support system, (fits almost any shape and is compact) and if you were worried about top heavy, check the tall cradle pic😁

JB

Perhaps my bench is over my test tank Doug😁😁😁😁???????? -could be an Idea, -it would be easy to find those small nuts and bolts we always drop😂

JB

That's because they don't float in air Rick,- had it fallen into water from the bench,-a different story😁

JB

But at least they usually go down in one piece Doug,😁(except maybe the Titanic)

JB

Hi Roger, boat looks good but sounds like it's wanting more power. I'd change to LiPos (say 3s 2200mAh) as they are much lighter and have much better starting power than most similar voltage batteries and hold their power well. Your motors are only about 1250 KV (revs per volt) so will need to be spinning at about 10-12000 and stay at that level to have decent lasting thrust and speed, and LiPos are really suited for this requirement. You could use a 2s 2200 mAh LiPo on your centre motor and a 3s for your outers (I'm assuming you have 2 ESCs)

Your motors should only draw about 3.3A at 12v each(according to Dougs' spec info) -free running,-(in the water, maybe 8A max,- you'll need a watt meter between your battery and ESC to check this properly so you can get an accurate figure- this will show you which way you need to go,-prop/voltage wise) anything else is a guess.

If the motors are pulling say 20A and the ESC is getting warm (no problem as long as you can hold you finger on it) you can screw a small 12v fan onto the cooling fins to help cool it, and join it into your battery feed at a convenient spot (I solder a JST plug just behind the ESC- battery plug) so it can be un-plugged. You can also run it to a switch, (manual or electronic)

As Doug said, you will need a LiPo charger if you change to LiPos, but once you get the hang of LiPos I'm sure you won't go back. The easiest and most common charger is an I-MAX B6 (only a genuine one not a copy) which is fine for smaller batteries. You can also buy chargers which require no setting, specially for 2-3s batteries, which have no fancy settings to confuse you, they do nothing but balance charge, (I've used one for about 10years no problems, -they will also stop if they detect a dud cell)


The advantage of the better chargers is that they can charge, discharge, balance charge or storage charge. They also have a display so you can monitor what's happening,- fail-safes such as incorrect connection, wrong battery selected, battery temp sensors etc which let you know during setting up and charging. They also can charge different battery types, (LiPos, NiMh, li-on, NiCads etc.

Set function and B6 multi function charger examples shown. Tons of info everywhere if you decide to go the LiPo way. Nothing to be worried about if you are careful (driving a car's more dangerous😁)

JB

Hi Rob, I've found some good logos etc on line, and have found that if you have a super clear photo of an object or logo, it will come out perfectly. I get my paper from Decal Paper.com.au, they specialise in printing, sublimation etc and have a very good range and pricing. I've made quite a few of my own as well,- mainly decals which are no longer available, such as the 70s Graupner decals on my repro Graupner Piper Cub. I need a better drawing/art program, as 'Paint' is a bit limiting. Took about 5 hours to 'remove' the Tuatara on the airboat from its' background colour on the original art work, but it was worth it in the end. A better program might have been easier.

JB

Looks good Bruce, really like the wind up support pads ! Are you also making scale ratchet tie-downs as well😁?

JB

This is what happens when you are adjusting the elevator clevis at the elevator, and don't realise that the cable is unwinding itself from the clevis on the servo (DUH). Before and after pics (Whenuapai RNZAF base Auckland) Immelmann turn at 200ft and straight into the concrete runway at 80mph. Cosmic Wind 'Minnow' pylon plane with OS .45 FSR. Piston was 30 ft away, full tank of fuel vaporised on impact. Looked almost identical to the Galloping Ghost crash at Reno, - except vertical.

Notice how cleanly I hit the runway, you can see the wings and ground zero between them😁. Lucky the concrete was there to stop it, or who knows where it could have come out😂.
Believe it or not, the ailerons, wheel spats, roll bar, dash and tail were all used again in the MK 3 electric version. I've found that gravity doesn't seem to effect boats as much😁

JB