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December 2018: 4 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 11 people |
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Member Stats
43 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
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Harbour
Rough Rider
Type: Racing Boat 
Tunnell
Type: Racing Boat 
Turtle
Type: Racing Boat 
Graupner 'Commodore'
Type: Pleasure Craft 
Wilhelm G
Type: Tug Boat +5 More
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Commander
185 points away from Captain!
Points
415 Total Points
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New Zealand
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Been thinking how I could build a compact sealed electric smoke generator with a pump to push the smoke through the exhausts, along with the cooling water on my HSL. Are the model train smokers not big enough for your purposes. You could just copy one of those and enlarge it perhaps. From what I remember from my train days they were not too complicated. How about an upside down ic glow plug with a variable voltage regulator in the bottom of a tube with a low temp oil ? You could possibly use a small brushed ESC for the regulator and come up with a controlled drip feed replenishing system. Just seen a site SMOKE EL in Germany which makes smokers for ic and electric planes but they look expensive and complicated,- work well though,-vids on site.
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Nice work
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[Score: 5/10] 40"/2800g Rough Rider Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a O/S 45FSR then O\S 45RSR (2 Blade X Type) - Comments: 40" fiberglass Prather hull (1980s). Still have this hull, future twin electric fit out .
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[Score: 5/10] 36" Tunnell Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 50mm) Direct Drive to a K+B 45 o/b (2 Blade X Type) - Comments: Own design Tunnel Hull built with marine ply mid 80s. Canopy was own fiberglass moulding. K+B 45 o/b
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[Score: 5/10] 36"/1500g Turtle Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 45mm) Direct Drive to a O/S 40 max (2 Blade X Type) - Comments: Own design deep V racing boat built in the early 70s Fiberglass over balsa.
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[Score: 5/10] 30"/1200g Graupner 'Commodore' Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 20mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 30mm) Powered by NiCad (6v) Batteries Controlled Through 1978 Futaba 18v propo F+R ESC - Comments: Purchased the kit in 1978, while working on Norfolk Island (South Pacific) and built it in 1979. ABS hull, ply deck and balsa and ply cabin. Was a nice model, shouldn't have sold it. Would have been great with modern gear.
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[Score: 5/10] 36" Wilhelm G Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 50mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (3 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) Batteries - Comments: Scratch built 'freelance' tug carved from a solid 12''x 12''x 45" block of driftwood in the 70s Wheelhouse was ply. Motor controlled by a set of car points for on/off. Had 2 different cabin styles and rails in its life. Had lights. Radio was Futaba 'brown box'on 27mhz.
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[Score: 5/10] 38"/2500g Titan Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (4 Blade 40mm) Direct Drive to a 540 (4 Blade) Powered by Lead Acid (12v) Batteries Controlled Through none ESC - Comments: Built this in the 80s. Carved from a block of foam and fiberglassed (hull and deck). Wheelhouse was ply, everything scratch built to own design. Had 540 motor with a set of car points for on /off. had lights that could be switched on by deck switch. Radio was Futaba 'brown box' on 27mhz.
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[Score: 5/10] 35"/1000g 'Maiami' ASR Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 380 (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Knocked this up in around 6 weeks ('free modelling',-no plans, just looking at a few photos) for my son but he wasn't interested (the dreaded Playstation) so I re assigned it to myself and put a few more bits on it. The whole boat is balsa and just enamel painted so it is quite light. Only single shaft and runs well, but thinking of making it a twin set-up with better motors and shafts. mostly gets used as a camera boat as it is very stable.
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[Score: 5/10] 31"/1100g Fairacre Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Single Propellor (2 Blade X Type 35mm) Direct Drive to a Graupner 400 monoperm (2 Blade X Type) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through China (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Fairacre plan built (RCM I think, early 70s) Rescued from rubbish bin on farm, rebuilt hull and f/glassed. restored, varnished and re 'glazed' cabin and added grab rails, mast , lights, curtains (leftovers from a Graupner Commodore I built in the 70s) cleats and boarding platform. Restored the deck and varnished. Fitted new prop shaft and rudder and made name decals. cleaned and painted hull interior.
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[Score: 5/10] 36"/2400g MTB 49 Capable of 5mph and a runtime of 60mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a 380 27MM (3 Blade) Powered by NiCad (7.2v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through CHINA (5Amps) ESC - Comments: Scratch built Thornycroft MTB from a 1960s Vic Smeed plan. Boat is 40yrs old from start till now. Bought plans in 1968 and finished 20 yrs later working on and off. Was twin prop with single Futaba ESC, on 27Mhz then an Electronize ESC on FM 40 Mhz now have just converted it to twin car ESCs and added a sound unit and is now run on 2.4 . Has a 100mm 12v computer fan for cooling with heat sinks on the motors. Has separate cabin lights and running lights.
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[Score: 5/10] 36"/2900g RNZAF W1 Capable of 10mph and a runtime of 40mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 25mm) Direct Drive to a TGY 28/45 2000KV INRUNNER (3 Blade) Powered by LiPoly (7.4v) 2Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through CHINA (5Amps) ESC - Comments: 36" Scratch built model of RNZAF W1, a British Power Boat 64ft HSL. Has twin brushless motors, twin ESCs, twin sound units, water cooling pump, full lighting and r/c switches for lights and pump. Took approx 5 yrs to buid on and off. hull is strip planked and f/glassed, deck is ply, wheel house is balsa.
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Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) It's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the programming method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made In China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. It's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". In saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)
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Thanks for the nice comment, and yes it is a very nice pond, except when there are a lot of those things with rags tied to sticks racing (shouldn't say that as I've sailed full scale all my life and still have 2 small yachts), and the buoys they leave there are a pain also, (easy to forget they are there) It was full of hire carp (yes hire carp) which were removed as the council wasn't paying the company or some such hassle, but I'm sure they missed some and they will soon multiply and keep the weed down. Bought the plans for the MTB around 1968 and took around 20yrs to finish it. I still have the plans and it only took me about 40yrs to find a photo of the original boat (bit late by then!).
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Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-... may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think. Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. It's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.
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I've sailed and re-rigged small full scale yachts and catamarans all my life and never seen a fitting like that. Perhaps it was put there as a halyard or stay 'tidy' for storage purposes? looks more like an upside down boat cover tie down clip or part of a latch. Perhaps try the door and lock section at your local hardware super store. Found this on google. As the other guys have said though, probably hand made. Usually, no rigging fittings on yachts have square edges unless they are part of a fitting.
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Just converted this 40yr old twin brushless model (scratch built from a Vic Smeed plan) to a proper independent twin system plus a sound unit. Started off with a 70s Futaba ESC on 27mhz, then on FM, then replaced with an Electronize unit on FM, then to 2.4 and now on 2.4 with twin ESCs and converted TGY S6 (twin throttles). Maneuvers a lot better and makes a better noise.
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Just trying out the maneuverability of the twin system. First trial so not too precise.
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Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
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Clever piece of kit, great job.
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The only thing you might have to watch out for is back feed from the pump out the aux tube (when moving) if you don't set up the y joints (must be y not T ) to create a venturi effect from the pump side. Doesn't matter standing still but at speed a T junction might reduce the flow as the flows will be fighting each other slightly. The beauty of the twin system is that if you are running a lot at high speed you could turn the pump off to save power. The best place to position water intakes is I have found is directly behind the prop (I usually just squash the brass tube slightly, fair it, cut it off at 45 deg and set it to just sit in the prop wash). At lower speeds especially, the prop will help to push water into the tubes rather than just relying on speed alone. Never had a problem with pickups interfering with rudder effectiveness as long as you fair the pickups nicely
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I used this pump from E Bay which pumps well, and with the rubber mounts is quiet. 6-12v (I use a 2 cell LiPo which seems perfect) and am cooling 2 2000kv 28mm in-runners. Have tried a few different pumps and these have been the best so far. You have to be careful that you don't over pressurize your plumbing system, as if the hoses come off while running you can fill your boat up in no time. It's safest to adjust your pump voltage or piping to a 'neutral' pressure rather than risk hosing down your electrics. I used twin pick-ups behind the props and separate feeds, one for the pump and one direct in case the pump stopped or blocked.
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Excellent job, very nice glass work.
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Looks like a Graupner 'Commodore'. I built one in the 70s and looks identical (see pic)
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Nice job on the re-build.
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Nice model.
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Have you tried soaking balsa in boiling water and pre forming it to shape ? (bend around pegs on a board) works well for hard wood as well. Shape, allow to dry, check and repeat as necessary. Be gentle with it and if the curve is tight, do it in stages.
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Thanks for the kind comments. Planking did take a couple of days but was not done all that neatly (just clamp and cyno) as I was glassing it later - it was all thin resin coated inside to seal it). Planking was just a hint at the original so you could just make out the planks through the glass. Have included a few more pics of the motors and interior which is not that flash but is unseen, (more for the fact that I had seen the original and was sort of putting down what I remembered from when I was 15) There is a small picture at the top left of the stairs which on the original, was a Photo from an HSL looking off the Stbd rear 1/4, to 2 64ft HSLs side by side climbing over its wake at speed The stair set is the original from the wheelhouse to wardroom, which has been kept and used again by the present owner (down to utility room in front of engine room) and still has the original 'POWER BOAT' rubber treads (not bad nick for 79yrs old!)
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The FSR6B will work with the FR Sky i6, i 10, T6 (which might be the HK-TR6A-V2), CT6B AND TH9X (which is the 'Hobby King' (FR Sky) 9x). I have bought the (Fly Sky) FSR6B and the FSR9B (8CH) and they both work fine on the 9x. Not sure what the difference between FR Sky and Fly Sky is, but it's probably just branding. I think Hobby King puts their own names on everything and modifies model numbers just to confuse everyone, like saying only their receivers match which is not true (perhaps in their product line but not in the real world) you just have to look around and take a punt. FR Sky make the TH9x (HK 9x) probably the 9XR for HK, the Taranis and a few others. Fly Sky seems to make the cheaper ones i6 (which I think has replaced the 6df) TR6a HK-6DF TGY 6X (hard to find the XR5000,- 7000 RXs anywhere for the 6x) etc. It might be worth a crack at the 6ch FS-R6B receiver as the matches mention a T6 TX, not much to loose and if it works, buy a bunch (check EBay, AliExpress and Banggood,-prices vary for the same items) like I did just in case HK dumps it and leaves everyone high and dry, as they have with a number of products. Now days you have to do lots of research and risk a few dollars to win, with all the B/S you get from suppliers,-not just R/C.
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Thanks for the positive comment, and yes, it''s a great pond, part of the Gulf Harbour development on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula in Auckland. It is home to the Gulf Harbour Radio Yacht Club, the members having built the jetty, and they race a number of times a week. I am about 15 km away in Red Beach but its worth the 15 minute drive on a day such as this one.
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