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    jbkiwi
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    Member No.#5175
    RegisteredπŸ“…17th Sep 2018
    Last OnlineπŸ“…1st Oct 2020
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    Members Harbour
    AIRBOAT (ELECTRIC)
    I had a hull sitting round under the hose for a number of years and decided the lockdown was a good time for a new project (ie complete it) Finally finished it in around a month and a half (on and off) and it's now been tested and runs very well on the water, (bit tricky on land) Will probably be experimenting with different motors and props for best performance and quietest running. Would make a great rescue boat with a set of padded arms on the front. Thought of fitting it with a car ESC so as to have reverse,- (only problem is keeping the prop on while starting in reverse) Hull is completely glassed and resin sealed inside.
    JAGUAR, a 37'5" BPBC MK II Seaplane Tender
    My attempt at a privately owned ST which was imported to NZ in 1955 by ship by a doctor who used it to visit patients in the South Island sounds. It was later brought up to Auckland and was owned by a family at Bucklands Beach for many years from the 60s t0 80s. I grew up there, and Jaguar was one of my favourite boats. It was fitted with GM 453 Detroit Diesels as it still is today, and is supposedly undergoing a re-build by its latest owner.
    Early offshore deep v
    Early balsa deep v inspired by Surfury . Built around 1970. Was going to be IC but too fragile. Would have made a good electric model today.
    early OS .30 powered patrol boat
    Built in the early 70s, all painted balsa. OS Cougar 2ch TX
    Early ic hydro
    An OS .30 powered hydro I made in the 60s. Controlled by an OS Cougar 2 ch TX.
    Graupner Optimist 1978
    My old Graupner Optimist which I made from the kit in 1979. It has been sitting gathering dust in my garage for around 20 years since I last used it, so I thought it was about time to give it a bit of a birthday and tidy it up. Originally fitted with a Graupner sail winch (which I later sold) and was sailed with a Futaba 6ch 27mhz FP6FN TX (which was bought in 1978 and is still going fine, but not used any more) I've bought 2 cheapo winches and when I have time I'll get it back on the water (maybe with a motor as well)
    (Racing Boat) Rough Rider
    40" fiberglass Prather hull (1980s). Still have this hull, future twin electric fit out . (Motor: O/S 45FSR then O\S 45RSR) (5/10)
    (Racing Boat) Tunnell
    Own design Tunnel Hull built with marine ply mid 80s. Canopy was own fiberglass moulding. K+B 45 o/b (Motor: K+B 45 o/b) (5/10)
    (Racing Boat) Turtle
    Own design deep V racing boat built in the early 70s Fiberglass over balsa. (Motor: O/S 40 max) (5/10)
    Graupner 'Commodore'
    Purchased the kit in 1978, while working on Norfolk island (South Pacific) and built it in 1979. ABS hull, ply deck and balsa and ply cabin. Was a nice model, shouldn't have sold it. Would have been great with modern gear. (Motor: Graupner monoperm) (ESC: 1978 Futaba 18v propo F+R) (5/10)
    (Tug Boat) Wilhelm G
    Scratch built 'freelance' tug carved from a solid 12''x 12''x 45" block of driftwood in the 70s Wheelhouse was ply. Motor controlled by a set of car points for on/off. Had 2 different cabin styles and rails in its life. Had lights. Radio was Futaba 'brown box'on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (5/10)
    (Tug Boat) Titan
    Built this in the 80s. Carved from a block of foam and fiberglassed (hull and deck). Wheelhouse was ply, everything scratch built to own design. Had 540 motor with a set of car points for on /off. had lights that could be switched on by deck switch. Radio was Futaba 'brown box' on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (ESC: none) (5/10)
    'Maiami' ASR
    Knocked this up in around 6 weeks ('free modelling',-no plans, just looking at a few photos) for my son but he wasn't interested (the dreaded Playstation) so I re assigned it to myself and put a few more bits on it. The whole boat is balsa and just enamel painted so it is quite light. Only single shaft and runs well, but thinking of making it a twin set-up with better motors and shafts. mostly gets used as a camera boat as it is very stable. (Motor: 380) (ESC: China) (5/10)
    'Fairacre', Broads Cruiser
    Fairacre plan built (MM709, early 70s) Rescued from rubbish bin on farm, rebuilt hull and f/glassed. restored, varnished and re 'glazed' cabin and added grab rails, mast , lights, curtains (leftovers from a Graupner Commodore I built in the 70s) cleats and boarding platform. Restored the deck and varnished. Fitted new prop shaft and rudder and made name decals. cleaned and painted hull interior. (Motor: Graupner 400 monoperm) (ESC: China) (5/10) Plan appears to be modeled on an early UK Bates Starcraft cruiser.
    MTB 49 (60s Vic Smeed plan)
    Scratch built Thornycroft MTB from a 1960s Vic Smeed plan. Boat is 40yrs old from start till now. Bought plans in 1968 and finished 20 yrs later working on and off. Was twin prop with single Futaba ESC, on 27Mhz then an Electronize ESC on FM 40 Mhz now have just converted it to twin car ESCs and added a sound unit and is now run on 2.4 . Has a 100mm 12v computer fan for cooling with heat sinks on the motors. Has separate cabin lights and running lights. (Motor: 380 27MM) (ESC: CHINA) (5/10)
    RNZAF W1, a 64ft BPBC High Speed Launch
    36" Scratch built model of RNZAF W1, a British Power Boat 64ft HSL. Has twin brushless motors, twin ESCs, twin sound units, water cooling pump, full lighting and r/c switches for lights and pump. Took approx 5 yrs to build on and off. hull is strip planked and f/glassed, deck is ply, wheel house is balsa. (Motor: TGY 28/45 2000KV IN-RUNNER) (ESC: CHINA) (5/10)
    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    7 minutes ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    More bits done. Made the galley sink, faucet and cooktop. Sink was made from the wooden top of a cane reed room fragrance bottle and cooker top grille from brass rod- soldered, with 3mm machine screws for burners and control knobs. Cooker body from balsa. Faucet made from brass rod with a 3mm machine screw tap. Rear deck is made to be removable for access to servos if necessary. Deck is dropped in and locked backwards under beam.

    Heaps to go yet.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    21 minutes ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Merci beaucoup monsieur Amiral😁
    JB
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    πŸ“ Online shop - order / delivery/contact
    21 hours ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Re- Can understand your disgruntlement ColinπŸ€”

    Totally agree Doug re time spent helping others. Don't know if some people realize how much time can be spent looking for things, doing drawings, posting videos etc to help them with a problem. Sometimes a simple like😊 would be nice😊. I think it happens mostly with random site visitors perhaps, rather than the regulars,
    JB
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    πŸ“ In need of guidance
    21 hours ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Daz, here is the tank pressure set-up as mentioned by Martin. You would need to buy a starter such as a Sullivan, and find a suitable small V belt (around 6mm wide ) from model shop or sewing machine specialists (or via boat racing club source). You will need one which is long enough to clear the deck of the boat by around 3" so the starter can be used horizontally (as in Martins drawing)

    Years ago we used to use a square leather boot lace to start boat motors. You don't wind the cord round the flywheel,- just loop it under the flywheel and holding the boat down firmly (a helper is good for this) using both hands, apply tension to the cord and pull up (to make the flywheel move anti clockwise (from the front of the motor), - slacken the tension, bring cord back and repeat ( sort of zip the cord back and forth quickly, - tension pull,-relax pull back etc).

    You will need to prime the motor by hand (finger over carb while turning anti clockwise by hand till you see fuel coming down the line and into the carb . If motor locks, it's flooded,- remove glow plug, spin motor with cord or starter to get rid of excess fuel, replace plug (do not overtighten plugs,- firm is fine) and re-try. Experience will get you sorted. As martin suggested, a good idea would be to go to your local boat racing club for direct advice.

    Make sure you start on very low throttle to avoid over revving the motor and get it in the water as quickly as possible to avoid overheating. Hope this gives you a bit more of an idea.
    See guy using cord starting in beginning of vid. Pic of green boat is one I built around 1977 and has the same O.S Max .40 as yours. Went quite well and very reliable.
    JB

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnNUeMacUeI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnNUeMacUeI
    πŸ”—
    ▢️
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    23 hours ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi pete, once all the other bits are on, (toe rails, grab rails, lights etc ) it will probably break the colour up a bit,- probably just a bit plain at the moment. On the original boat, I attached the tinted perspex windows to the exterior with a few hundred 3mm c/s brass screws with acorn nuts on the inside, and put a 1/4" gold pinstripe over them around the windows, which probably made them stand out a bit more. Unfortunately too difficult to copy to a model so fitted them inside instead,- not quite as effective, so the deck colour catches the eye more at the moment.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Be faster if the paint would dry faster Martin😁 this varnish stain is a day between coats!,-3 coats--------. Are you getting the sub feels back yet?😁
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Thanks Colin, it's taking its' time though 😁
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Thanks Peter, actually found some poseable figures (male and female) on Ali Express which might be about the right size ( need something about 8" tall these are 150mm,- slightly short),- always a problem finding the correct scale figures for models. They are about $18 a pair but they need dressing (wouldn't look good driving the boat nakedπŸ˜‚ probably be booked)
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Thanks Nerys, it's not exactly the most detail intensive boat (compared to barges, fireboats etc) but just trying to reproduce it as close as poss to the original. Not too sure about the deck colour, looked better on the full size for some reasonπŸ˜€
    JB
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    πŸ“ HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Painted the partitions and floors and stained the trim on the partitions and helm station (first coat). Trimmed the wheel spokes with mahogany as well. Painted the deck and applied some non skid patches, (doped embossed heavy black art paper). Added a top transom rubbing strake. Before painting the deck I doped on some fine glass/paper finishing material I found in one of my plans boxes (didn't know I had it,- must be from the 70s) and primer/fillered it. Once painted it came out with a bit of a non skid look. I have also started the frames/boxes for the rear seats/bunks. Lots to do still.
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    πŸ“ In need of guidance
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Re, I have been given an old boat, it has an OS MAX 40rc

    Hi Daz, here's a manual from a Max .30 I have, (same info as the .40) You can buy the fuel from most model shops ready made . Don't use high nitro fuels as these motors should have no more than 5% max for contest use as they are not built for too much nitro. They are a ringed motor (Dykes ring) not ABS and you will cook it on too much nitro.

    If you can find quality first pressing caster oil for model use, that's the best (although messy) as it lubricates well at high temps. Nitro use causes rust in the engine (although the .40 Max only has bushes not bearings so is not affected as much) and requires using an after run oil to prevent this, - (caster just goes gooey with long time storage.)

    Don't think you will find any caster fuel these days though as it is mostly synthetic oils now. Fuel should be as close to the proportions shown when buying from the model shop, (minimum nitro or none, as these don't need nitro)
    The methanol and oil are pre-mixed (do not use petrol and 2 stroke oil,- it wont run). You'll need a glow lead with a 1.5-2v battery for starting (depending on plug specs) Use an O.S No 7 plug (watch the lengths of other plugs re piston clearance, temp etc)
    Hope this helps.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: A little closer .....
    2 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice job on the motor linkages Sy, hope there's enough turning effort with the motor skegs being small, although it should be ok with two. You may have to leave the props off when running to reduce drag, as they might disrupt the flow and effect steering, - ie they will be restricting the water flowing off the back of the 'rudders' and blocking flow in reverse ). More great detailing with the motor cables etc!
    JB
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    πŸ“ Balsa Shortage
    4 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Re - as regards price - 3mm x 100mm x 1m sheets vary from R 40 to R80 per sheet for example

    Just paid 89.6 Rand ($8 NZ) for the same sheet here Peter from the art store,- usually between $5-$8 a sheet depending where you shop. Gets expensive building models, almost better off building a real boat if you scaled the price!, as everything you buy for a model (paint, f/glass resin etc) usually has to be bought in full sized quantities, and you might only use 5% of a tin and the rest can go to waste. It would be nice if the prices were scaled to match the models😁
    JB
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    πŸ“ HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    5 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Got a bit sick of woodwork so got onto a side metalwork project (will post later if some bits arrive) That done I have done a little bit more internal woodwork and made the 4 partitions, -port side for cooker and sink bench, stbd for portaloo (a necessity for when mermaids are aboard😁) and storage. Made the helm station and covered it with 1mm ply (leaving the top unglued for 'instrument' fitting) Also made a wheel from brass rod which will have a mahogany spoke covering (as original wheel)

    The 4 partitions are trimmed with basswood which will be varnished and the partitions painted. Also painted the bottom with a colour as close to the original as poss, by mixing acrylic paints from spray 2 cans (light blue and black) and spraying on using a touch-up gun, as the original Epiglass (now similar to international Lauderdale blue) colour is not acrylic. Bunks are next on the list and deck painting (may glass the deck first)
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Searchlights.
    5 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice work Rob, much more satisfying to make your own, and you're not trying to modify something bought that doesn't quite match the scale.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: temp sails, update
    5 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Nice bit of knittingπŸ˜€
    JB
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    πŸ“ Balsa Shortage
    5 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Peter.-hope the Aussies don't loose their production, as a lot of what we get comes from there (not sure if it's grown in Aus or elsewhere). I am sure the Americans won't let their supplies go as modelling is huge there. Either way, balsa is in short supply here at the moment due to chunflu effect and I buy a few sheets here and there as I find them. Seems to be an abundance of the big sizes,( not a lot of 1-4mm sizes) - maybe I might stock up on a few of those for future slitting, just in caseπŸ˜€ You can never have too much balsa!😁

    If the worst happens there is always foam and f/glass, (basswood and ply are still common also) so we'll always have something. My 80s 40" tug was carved from a poly block and completely glassed as an experiment, and came out quite well, was light and unsinkable.
    JB
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    πŸ“ Notifications
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Re - I did send Doug an email yesterday morning but I have not received any reply.

    Hi Martin, perhaps he's received new orders from his 'superior' to spend quality time away from the computer, and is 'happily' sipping coffee by the lake at the biergartenπŸ˜πŸ˜‚??
    Things have been a bit quiet of late all round, as I think a slight 'chinflu cloud' has dampened enthusiasm world wide, and people are having to adjust lifestyles.

    Chins up everyone, could be worse, could be hit by Halleys' Comet and we are getting closer to the sun by 1/16 " every 100 years😁. Mask up, keep a safe distance, wash your mitts (all the idiots will learn eventually, or die) and it should gradually fade away as have all other plagues.😁 Probably just nature adjusting the balance again.
    JB
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    πŸ“ SEA COMANDER RE-FURB.
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Ians' lathe would have been a big loss and hard to replace, and I know what you mean Colin about feeling comfortable, ( wondering "will they be back for the new ones"? - quite often happens) ☹️ Tools are a mans personal items and we become very attached to them (women don't usually understand😁) and if they are stolen it can be quite depressing. I moved to Fiji for 2 years and bought a lot of new tools to take with me. After about 6 months there, while at my wifes' sisters place for dinner, my house was burgled (got through the louvre windows and crow-barred the security grilles out of the inside concrete wall).

    They stole most of my new tools (electronic jig saw, 2 drills etc) my wifes' new sewing machine, new stereo cassette, new 8mm video camera (unfortunately with a video cassette of my sons' early years and family stuff) and would have stolen my camera, but it was not in the bag with the lenses, and was in a box on a shelf above so they missed it.

    They did find the the spare battery for the camera though. They went through my briefcase and everything else but missed my main hand tool toolbox in the laundry, which was under some clothes, which was a relief. Around 6 Fijian police officers turned up (after some persuasion on my part) and had a look round with a dog, but couldn't find any prints etc, as according to the detective, the thieves apparently wore socks on their hands (quite common). Police were quite good but could not do a lot. I lost about $2,500 worth of property in the end and had to cruise the pawn shops for replacement tools, as they were too expensive to buy new there. Hope you've got your boat collection well secured Colin!

    I'm all for Sharia law for thieves😊
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: 20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 28
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Coming along nicely Roy,
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Paint and winders...err, windows
    7 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Looking good Cash,
    JB
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    πŸ“ SEA COMANDER RE-FURB.
    8 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    HI Ian, sounds like a situation my neighbour from SA was telling me about a few years back. He belonged to a boat club (full size boats) in his local area and they had a huge problem with theft from the club. They ended up spending a lot of money on security doors etc, but they had only been in place a short time when the 5 finger discount lads smashed a big hole through the concrete block back wall of the clubhouse when the bars stopped them! I think the club gave up in the end.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The end is in sight......
    9 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Looks magic Sy,- glad you've sorted the steering.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Phantom build update 8
    13 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Very nice Chris, great looking boat!
    JB
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    πŸ“ No Reverse
    14 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Just throwing ideas at you Mike as there are a number of ways different ESCs can be set. The method I mentioned re the centering applies to a number of ESCs (I have 4 Trackstar ESCs which require this for eg). Some ESCs even require you to change a parameter then disconnect the power for 5 secs before changing the next one. The reason I mentioned it was that it is in the HK files section for that ESC, (perhaps someone posted the wrong file?) Anyhow, one last thing to try if you haven't already, (also in the files section)
    JB
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    πŸ“ HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    15 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Decided to make a start on the flooring, so have now removed the temporary frames and 'spine' to work on that. If I can work it right, a lot of the partitions will be built on the floors and be removable as units.
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    πŸ“ No Reverse
    15 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Mike, just confirming you have set the initial throttle range as per pic, (de chinglishised for clarity) Sounds to me that this could be your problem? Wouldn't want to bin it for something simpleπŸ˜€ Re set ESC to std and try this if you, haven't already, - hope this helps.
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    15 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Hi Martin, I'll be painting the inside and installing floors, partitions bunks etc as I go along. Probably will need to leave some bits bare to glue parts to and paint later, as I usually paint hull insides and various bits with Reeves artists' acrylics, as they are waterproof and cover nicely (also you can mix your own colours to suit). Hopefully most of the inside parts will be removable for access, and be able to be painted outside first (as many large units as possible).
    JB
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Lift out
    16 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Looking very nice so far!
    JB
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    πŸ“ HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT
    16 days ago by jbkiwi ( Vice Admiral)
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    Windows now fitted, along with the cabin side 'flashes'. Hull has been faired, primed and then topcoated in white acrylic. Bottom and deck will be a medium blue as per original. Still have lights and grab rails etc to make for cabin, along with more internal trim.
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