|||
Not Registered
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
Cancel
Anytime
ยฃ2.50
ยฃ4.50
ยฃ6.50
Subscribe
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
For A Whole Year!
ยฃ25
ยฃ45
ยฃ65
Donate
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Download The App!

    Login To
    Remove Ads
    Login To
    Remove Ads

    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Registered
    17th Sep 2018
    Last Online
    13th Jul 2024
    jbkiwi
    Member Stats
    Stats
    Member No.#5175
    Registered๐Ÿ“…17th Sep 2018
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…13th Jul 2024
    City๐Ÿ“Auckland 0932
    Country๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟNew Zealand
    Genderโ™‚๏ธMale
    Age๐Ÿ‘ถNot Provided
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ3703
    Followers๐Ÿ“ฃ13
    Likes Received๐Ÿ‘10575

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Send Private Message
    ๐Ÿ’ต Gift a Membership
    Members Following
    Follow jbkiwi
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง anthonyl ( Recruit)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿ‡ช hermank ( Captain)
    ๐Ÿ‡ญ๐Ÿ‡บ MouldBuilder ( Vice Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ DWBrinkman ( Commander)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Madwelshman ( Midshipman)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡บ stevedownunder ( Captain)
    ๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธ pressonreguardless ( Rear Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ญ Mike Stoney ( Commander)
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ronald ( Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง philcaretaker ( Commodore)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฆ redpmg ( Commodore)
    13 Followers
    Fleet Admiral
    Ranks Points
    Fleet Admiral 10,000
    Admiral 8,000
    Vice Admiral 6,000
    Rear Admiral 5,000
    Commodore 4,000
    Captain 3,000
    Commander 2,500
    Lieutenant Commander 2,000
    Lieutenant 1,600
    Sub-Lieutenant 1,200
    Midshipman 900
    Warrant Officer 600
    Chief Petty Officer 1st Class 450
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class 300
    Petty Officer 1st Class 200
    Petty Officer 2nd Class 150
    Master Seaman 100
    Leading Seaman 50
    Able Seaman 20
    Recruit 0
    Fleet Admiral
    Points
    ActivityWorthAwarded
    ๐Ÿ‘ Likes (rcv'd)110,575
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Forum22,374
    โœ๏ธ Comments23,868
    โœ๏ธ Blog41,780
    ๐Ÿ“ท Photos48
    ๐ŸŽฅ Videos10990
    ๐Ÿ“ Place80
    ๐Ÿšค Harbour8160
    ๐Ÿ“ Guestbook100
    ๐Ÿ˜Š Avatar1010
    19,765 Total Points
    New Zealand
    Signature
    This user has not added a signature
    Members Harbour
    Members Blogs
    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 15 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Thanks Roy, normally a good idea, but I don't usually have any trouble if it's all Acrylic or enamel. The problem I think was the cold, and that the acrylic and varnish didn't agree. The acrylic would have melted a varnish seal anyhow, as it would have been varnish on varnish on an edge in this case. If it had been a nice hot sunny day, the acrylic would have flashed off in about 20 seconds and sealed the edge and the fumes would not have had time to penetrate across the tape.

    Would have been smarter to do the acrylic first, then the varnish, then no problem, but the cold was slowing my brain down ๐Ÿ˜

    JB

    Login To
    Remove Ads

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 21 Views ยท 9 Likes ยท 4 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hull and cabin painting finished, despite sunny but cold damp weather (12 deg c), plus having to spray it outside not letting the lacquer gloss off. Required hours of wet and dry sanding and cutting to get the gloss back, - finishing with Brasso.. Had to re varnish the transom as well, due to the lacquer thinner fumes getting under the masking tape and attacking the varnish. Took a bit of sanding to remove 6 coats of varnish!. Paint not 100% as I would have liked finish wise, but you can't wait forever for a good day.

    Gunwale rubbing strips are varnished and ready to glue on,- next will be the toe rails, then the basic hull should be finished ready for the deck jewelry. Cabin needs the windows fitting (tint film over .5 acetate sheet) and sanding to fit flush on the deck.(strapping sand paper to deck and lots of rubbing). Lots of other bits to make, (grab rails etc),- luckily I still have the jig I made for sanding the shapes in grab rails, as there are a few rails to go on.

    Shaft and rudder will be fitted later, as they just get in the way at this stage, (everything is ready to fit). Cabin front and rear varnished trim pieces will be glued on later. Lots more to do.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: First River Trial, One Year After Completion.
    9 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 13 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Pete, I see your first instruction sheet was in Mandarin, - obviously why you were having problems. Having to read from right to left and up and down must have been distracting ๐Ÿ˜

    I see you have translated it in the second pic๐Ÿ˜‚

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Brushless motor sync problems
    9 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 57 Views ยท 7 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi FB, firstly,- remove the fuses from the 3 motor wires,! as if one fuse has a loose connection, it will get hot, and the motor will be trying to run with less power on that winding (out of sync sound) and causing the other 2 to load up and get hot. If you are going to use a fuse in the system, it should be before the ESC.

    With a 740kv motor, the prop speed with a 5s will be around 15,100 rpm (unloaded) with a full battery (assuming the battery is 20c) which is probably too much for that motor with the 55mm prop The Aerodrive from HK - max 50A - in reality a safe 25A cont ). Start with a 25mm prop, - working your way up till you get to a reasonable safe amperage loaded.

    As Trident said, the best investment you can make (using LiPos especially) is a Watt meter such as the examples pictured (the GT Power one is the best, HK doesn't sell the pictured one any more, but there are similar ones branded differently,- the last 3 only measures amps, watts and volts and Watt hours. 1 and 2 measure cell voltages on LiPo and Life batteries - (have plugs for balance leads) and can balance cells as well. A bit hard to find now, but the other 3 are available on Ali Express and EBay. These can all stop you from making expensive mistakes. I have 3 and use them religiously when setting up new models, and have never had a problem in around 14yrs of running electrics.

    As suggested,- as an alternative, try it on a 4s LiPo which will lower the stress on the motor, ie motor is slower but can handle a larger prop. With brushless motors, as a general rule, the higher the KV and the bigger the battery (V) the smaller the prop, and vice versa) same for boats. Most people don't realize, that if your model is a bit slow on say a 4s 20c LiPo, instead of buying a 5s and maybe maxing out your motor, you can increase your performance by buying a 4s 60c (or higher) battery, which will give you similar performance to a 5s 20c.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: CGINGA 1V
    9 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 47 Views ยท 6 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Excellent job Chris, a beautiful model. Your own additions make it especially interesting.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: First River Trial, One Year After Completion.
    12 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Pete, top job, -looks great and sails well (although I think the captain had been on the Unicum ๐Ÿ˜‹) you must be happy with that ! Great that it all works, as that was a mission getting so many options operating during construction. Monitors work well and the crane looked good once the dinghy behaved, (bit hard to get spot on with no crew to steady it, as would be the case on the full sized boat) With all those features, you probably need an 'instruction' card strapped to the TX ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿค“ The next outing should be easier once you get familiar with everything.

    I find, with some of my boats, If I don't use them for a while, I have to try and remember how to operate some of the features I've added, and do a bench run through before going to the pond. Old age doesn't help either lol. Sometimes I think, simple is better.

    Re reversing the rudder servo, you might find you need to adjust the rudder positions on the link when you reverse them in the TX, as they may not line up as they were.
    Were you running it outside your place ? looked like ideal conditions.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    14 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 36 Views ยท 9 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Varnished the front and rear cabin trims to be glued on after painting is complete, and spray rails fitted last night. Did a 100km return trip yesterday (80 mins) to buy more white acrylic which was on clearance. Paint was $27 for a 1L bulk can (plus $15 gas there and back) =$42, which a lot cheaper than buying 2.5 400ml spray cans at $32 each ($80) ! for the equivalent volume at the local branch 1km down the road. The things we do for models๐Ÿ˜

    Went for a wander while I was there to look at a new busway, cycleway, pedestrian bridge over the river, beside the 3rd road bridge (built 1959). It has displaced a small marina and haul-out ramp and removed about 10 houses during construction. Took about 3 years (including rearranging about 3km of the main road for a busway) and is the 5th bridge to be built here since 1865, with the 4th larger one about 800m upstream.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    22 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 47 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    They'll do at a pinch Doug, I'm getting to grips with it๐Ÿ˜

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    22 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 50 Views ยท 10 Likes ยท 2 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Had a plan of how things were to progress, but ended up doing things differently. Made a bit much epoxy with filler powder up for the transom ply trim, so glued the deck on instead to save wasting too much epoxy. Needed all the clamps I had for the inner edge, -taped the outside.

    Cut the transom trim (to be varnished) to about 1mm oversize, taped it in place and drilled a 3mm hole through the top corners and transom to locate the trim sheet for gluing. Clamped the hull nose down to a trolley, mixed some more epoxy and filler powder and applied it to both surfaces, then 'nailed' the sheet on with pointed 3mm dowels. Taped the edges and weighted it down. When set the edges will be sanded to the hull.

    Painted the hull and cabin with acrylic white before doing these jobs, as we had a decent warm day for a change (being winter here) then sanded the cabin back again as it had some imperfections, carded on some thick primer filler, then sanded that back, and now should be smooth enough. I usually use US made aircraft dope to seal balsa, but the aircraft accessory shop (100%) hasn't had any for a long time.

    I usually buy it in US quart cans,- excellent stuff for models. Hull will be wet and dry sanded again when the deck and transom are done.
    Haven't fitted the shaft yet, as that can wait till the hull painting is finished.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    28 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 58 Views ยท 8 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Painted the acrylic undercoat filler on today, as the weather was good with not much wind, which is unusual for our winter (made spray while the sun shone ๐Ÿ˜€)
    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    29 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 61 Views ยท 14 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Another bit of progress, despite having to deal with the neutral line to my house being ripped off by upgrade work being done on the power lines in our street (could have been electrocuted !, cost me $2070 to have a new line installed,- expecting compensation !!) and the connection to the water main in the street failing a week later, and turning my property into a swamp,-(councils' problem to fix)

    The cabin and hull now have 2 coats of water based Zinsser 123 sealer applied with a 100x20mm roller. Too wet cold and windy for spraying, but the roller worked well. I use this paint to seal any wax which might remain after glassing, as it can cause spots to appear in acrylic paint. Dries quite quickly and gets a harder finish than normal undercoats or primers but is still good to sand. The Zinsser BIN oil/shellac based sealer is excellent for this also, but a bit harder to sand.

    When things warm up I'll spray it all with industrial primer filler as a base for the topcoat. Deck not glued on yet.

    JB

    Login To
    Remove Ads

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 67 Views ยท 10 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Inside of the hull has now been coated with epoxy timber sealer/preservative, as well as the equipment trays, which have been made to be screwed in, fitted and unscrewed ready to be put aside for after painting. The prop cable drive shaft outer now has a strut which bolts through the hull and through ply reinforcing on the inside.

    The RX, UBEC and ESC will probably be Velcro'd in, and the water pump screwed on with its' mounts. Most things have now been pre fitted, so just a few things like rudder arm and link to make, and the deck can be glued on, (needs doing before hull painting so edge can be sanded flush with hull). Everything is fitted so it can be removed easily once the deck is on. Spray rails will be glued on , and shaft tube finally glued in before painting the hull.

    Cold and wet at the moment, so could be a while.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 71 Views ยท 11 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Due to the nasty weather lately, I've been forced indoors, so have managed a bit more progress in the last 2 days. I've sanded the glass on the hull and cabin tops, painted a sealer on the cabin, made a rudder servo tray, a central radio(and other bits) tray, a battery tray and a front compartment tray.

    The center and front tray are 'hinged' to fit through the bulkheads etc, then folded out to fit. The front tray is secured with a 'cam' The servo tray fits in through the bulkhead then is turned clockwise to fit in place, (with only 1mm clearance- hence opposite corners angled). I prefer not to glue trays in, and screw them in wherever possible, in case mods or repairs are required later. Lots more to do yet.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 78 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Len, re Are cables available with different directions of winding in case of a 2 prop boat?

    You can buy them in left or right hand winds depending on your motor, For IC use they were usually always right hand wound - ie IC engines almost always ran anti clockwise (from the front) Now with electrics, they can run either way hence the availability of left and right winds. For circuit racing, boats might need the prop rotating in a particular direction for stability in turns.

    They are normally used for driving in one direction, (no need for a F/R ESC) but if you are gentle can be used on low speed in reverse (maybe cut the end point right back in reverse) The one I have was from Ali Express, so I'll see how it holds up. A bit of an experiment using it with the Stiletto, but I'm sure it's been done in a Stilettos in the 70s/80s with IC engines in them.

    Boat pics are from a boat I had around 1979,- it had an OS 45 FSR with a cable drive in a 40" glass Prather hull.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 78 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Alessandro, Re is the propeller drive axis slightly curved?

    the prop drive is a cable drive, mainly used in racing boats from the 70s onwards as a means of getting parallel thrust which is optimal for efficiency. These days fast boats mainly use a fixed shaft extension( stinger drive) from the transom, with a rudder (or rudders) behind or beside it similar to a surface drive. The cable drive has a left or right hand wound cable like a car speedometer and is usually only run in the direction of the windings of the cable (ie trying to tighten the windings).

    Not really suited for reverse unless used slowly, as the cable can be unwound under force and damaged. Beauty of them is, you can bend the outer brass tube with gentle curves to align the drive. The motor has a collet which clamps the cable. Very simple to remove for greasing, and to a certain degree self aligning, being flexible.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 84 Views ยท 16 Likes ยท 2 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Stand is finished now, nothing fancy, just serviceable. It has a backstop and slotted side clamps now which secure the model for transport. The clamps work well and will also be handy for holding the boat still while working in the innards. Luckily didn't need any cutouts for the rudder, and it all just fits like I planned it๐Ÿ˜‰

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 1/10 scale model of Venice water taxi
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 28 Views ยท 5 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Ian, nice to see a fellow Aucklander on the site๐Ÿ‘ Excellent job on the model,- looks pretty solid. I was going to ask where you bought the resorcinol glue, and then I saw you'd done the same as I did with repairs and filling on my 15ft day sailer, and mixed mahogany dust with the west epoxy. Works really well. I save all my mahogany and other wood sanding dust for the same reason. Looks much better than opaque epoxy.

    Resorcinol glue used to be good for that on mahogany, but it's hard to find now, and expensive. It's much nicer than epoxy for darker woods I think.

    There is a big new mens' shed here in Silverdale, but it doesn't seem to be open yet. It's been there for more than a year, but I've never seen anyone there. Not sure what the problem is, - maybe the council.
    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 93 Views ยท 13 Likes ยท 3 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Knocked up a stand for the boat today using ancient no nails technology (unless you call dowels nails) A bit more fun to do and no holes to fill. Still have some more cutouts to sort for the rudder when it's installed and some padding and staining. Finished with the building jig, so now just needed to have something smaller to sit the boat upright on to work on the inside bits. It will have a stop on the back to go against the transom so the boat will sit down in the correct place every time, and maybe some adjustable side clamps to keep the boat in place.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 95 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Pete, nice and shiny now, but wait till I get the belt sander onto it ๐Ÿ˜†

    JB

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 95 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Len, being a cable drive, it just needs regular greasing. It has a Teflon tube inner which the cable runs in. I might make a small acetal bush/cap for the top end just to remove any play, but it's not usually necessary as the cable is sort of self aligning. I'll have to get an ESC with reverse eventually, but with a cable drive you can't put much torque on them against the wind. Reverse would have to be gentle. It's a bit of an experiment so I'll have to see how it goes. Not sure if the inrunner motor will be suitable (maybe too much) but I have others to try. It's unusual as it has an internal fan, but will need water cooling in the boat- bought it years ago from HK but never used it.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Modified Stiletto project
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 96 Views ยท 10 Likes ยท 7 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    A bit more done now some necessary house maintenance has been completed. Not a lot done but I've been doing some RC plane maintenance as well. Glassed the cabin tops with a fine cloth and polyester resin, rubbed a few coats of varnish stain on the deck, cut glass off the shaft slot and finished lining up the shaft and screwed the motor mount in place. Temporarily trial fitting bits and pieces for balance, and will be making floors to mount everything on later.

    Deck will be glued down when everything inside is sorted. Waiting for it to stop raining so I can put the hull on the drill press and drill the rudder tube hole straight. Winter now, so should be getting on with it a bit more.

    JB

    Login To
    Remove Ads

    ๐Ÿ“ MGB 81 UK and HSL W1 (NZ)
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 49 Views ยท 13 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Found this video today on MGB 81. A lot of inaccurate waffling but interesting all the same. For some reason they didn't mention Phil Clabburn who originally saved the boat (was a houseboat) and totally re-built it (re-launched in 2000) with the 3 x 1000hp MAN diesels which were mentioned. Sounds like they are trying to take all the credit for rebuilding it when it's more a case of old boat maintenance. Another boat he was involved in restoring was a seaplane tender (ST1502 I think) All of these boats were sold to The Portsmouth Naval Base property trust

    He also restored HSL 102 and there is a TV video item with him talking about the boat and it being driven by the reporter. They also had to re-engine the 102 due to apparent lack of maintenance and thrashing by the trust of the 3 Cummins diesels fitted by Clabburn. The wheelhouse and interior were re-built to original admiralty plans which he sent to the owner of the only other 64ft HSL here in Auckland NZ to give him information on the hull. The NZ boat has been re-modelled into a luxury launch with full aircon, pop up tv etc in a total interior and topsides rebuild, virtually back to a bare hull.

    Propulsion is now by a single Detroit 8V 92T - around 430hp(from memory) which still gets the boat along at 22knots (1/2 the original speed from 1/3 the horsepower!)

    I was fortunate to have been on board this boat twice, -once in 1968 when it was original, and again 50yrs later in its' new form, arranged by a friend of mine. Still a modern looking hull despite being built in 1939 (shipped to RNZAF in 1940) Pics are the various stages in its' life. I took my model of it in original form along for a few pics with its big sister as well. Its' name is its' original RNZAF number - W1 (watercraft 1) the first RNZAF boat to be numbered.

    I've posted some of this before, but newer members might be interested. '

    JB



    https://www.berthon.co.uk/shipyard/yacht-refits-refurb/ww2-mgb-81-motor-gun-boat
    ๐Ÿ“ Flight Link Control Launch Link 2 channel radio control set
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 40 Views ยท 2 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hey-Y, nice shop and great looking Stinson๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ What radio do you use with that?

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Flight Link Control Launch Link 2 channel radio control set
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 40 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Great collection Stuart, used to see most of those in magazines years ago, also saw guys flying reed radios when I was young, and have never forgotten a guy flying a large model inverted 2ft off the ground using one, didn't find out till much later how difficult that would have been! even had a pilot with a moving joystick. I've seen a few guys here who have fitted the guts of a 2.4 radio into vintage radio boxes, like yours, the aerial gives them away.

    This is a progressive collection of all the TXs I've used from the late 60s to now (sold the OS Cougar in the 70s) and they are all still working 100%. I changed the batteries in the Conquest TXs to LiFe 3s and they lasted for months. The 2 silver HK 6ch 2.4 TXs now use NiMH cells as does the small 6X 2.4 6ch, which last longer than dry cells. The Futaba 6EX still has its' original NiCad pack, (12yrs) but I have the special LiPo low C replacement to go in if it dies. It can bind to any number of FAAST RXs, (I use Orange, Futaba and Corona) I did strap a larger capacity car NiCad to the back of the Futaba 6ch brown box before I stopped using it, which improved flying times a lot.

    The Acoms 4ch was modified with a pot on top for flaps on a 3ch plane, which ran off the LH rudder stick pot lead, and they could be swapped by using plugs which I'd fitted. The TGY (flySky) 9x is the early version, which allowed you to bind as many RXs as you needed (up to 10 from memory) which was really handy, but the new version HK sells, only binds one at a time, so you need to re-bind it for each RX/model - sort of destroys the 9 model memory idea! The 9XR uses a JR module with Vv8FR -II HV RXs which can all be bound the same. Uses a 3s 1500mah LiFe battery which lasts forever.

    So many great radios out there today with infinite functions, just depends on what you want to spend, and if you have any use for all the functions. I remember watching a guy fly a number of years ago, and he told me that the lights flashing on the plane were done by the Futaba TX, not a module in the plane. I was a bit doubtful, but now I know, as I've done similar things with the 9XR, (servo stepping etc) Just have to remember what you put where (gets harder with age) ๐Ÿ˜

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Flight Link Control Launch Link 2 channel radio control set
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 35 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Isaac, re different TXs,- I used a couple of Futaba Conquest 5ch FM Heli TXs I bought from a club member which were both set up with the same crystals as all the RXs in the planes. The Heli TXs were good, as you could use some of the Heli features with the planes, (such as throttle cut - stick back full to idle and flick a switch to stop) etc for a bit of extra fun. They also had servo reversing and adjustment switches in the battery compartment which was very handy.

    Could never be bothered changing crystals constantly, as there were always people hogging certain frequencies, and you would have needed a box full of them to get a turn at flying. Just used to wait till someone finished and grab the peg. 2.4 was just a whole new dimension when it came out and made life more enjoyable.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Flight Link Control Launch Link 2 channel radio control set
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 36 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Stuart -Re the truck, it's actually an amphibious truck of my own design (some details in the blog section- Amphitruck) -geared brushed drive motor and 2 brushless O/R swim motors, pressurised diffs, engine sound etc, . Thought I'd give it a crack and it's worked out ok.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ Flight Link Control Launch Link 2 channel radio control set
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 30 Views ยท 6 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Stuart, my first radio was an OS Cougar 2ch in the late 60s for boats, used that to death ! Futaba brown box 4ch and 6ch in the 70s till 27mhz became unusable, then Futaba and Acoms FM, then FlySky, Futaba, and HK 2.4 (probably FS rebadged) Favourite is a 9XR with a JR long range module which does everything you could want, (so good I bought 2)

    Remember when you would set all your planes the same so you would just turn on the plane you wanted and it would need little trimming in flight. No 10 model memory and fancy end point adjustment etc. These days modern radios have encouraged some lazyness with plane settings, -but I do like them ๐Ÿ˜‚ Everything in the pic is on 2.4 now and electric, or converted to electric.

    JB

    ๐Ÿ“ In Loving Memory of my dad Peter, aka Mallory.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 84 Views ยท 14 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Stephen, condolences on the loss of your father. him. You were fortunate to have a father who had a common interest which is not always the case, and I'm sure he was proud of your creation which so many people round the world have enjoyed or are still enjoying.

    John B

    ๐Ÿ“ Smoke spaghetti
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 30 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    A further improvement using a timer to switch the element on and off as I mentioned it my last post. Experimenting with times to get the balance right. This timer is- on 8 secs off 5. Now have it on 10 secs, off 5 which is better. Battery drops .25v when on, but recovers mostly when off.

    JB



    ๐Ÿ“ Russian K100D waterjet work boat
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ณ๐Ÿ‡ฟ jbkiwi ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 35 Views ยท 5 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Another video from the barge to go with the last one. A bit choppy but it gives you an idea. Hard to keep yourself out of a video when it's from a boat, you keep forgetting it can see you ๐Ÿ™ˆ
    Fun trying to get it right though.
    JB





    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy