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Liked HMS Belfast Update Number 7. Radar and Lighting. 13 days ago
Liked Re: HMS Belfast Follow up to Update No 6..Result!! 14 days ago
Liked HMS Belfast Follow up to Update No 6..Result!! 15 days ago
Liked a dream project 27 days ago
Liked a dream project 27 days ago
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💬 Re: HMS Belfast Follow up to Update No 6..Result!!
15 days ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott (
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Very impressive. May I ask you: did you do the railings from scratch? If not are they still available?
They don't look like photo etched.
They don't look like photo etched.
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📝 a dream project
27 days ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Thank you for your insight Brightwork. Amazing you were able to get the cloth adhere evenly on your boat. If you look at my earlier picture with only the bottom and sides done, you see all that extra material I had to cut in and away at the bow and stern. I can't see it working as it did on yours. Also I made the mistake brushing excess epoxy on the bottom. It has taking a bit time sanding it all smooth. I will add one more coat of the sealer once I am done sanding as it goes on like water as some spots the cloth as come away and/or I sanded through the cloth.
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cdnfurball
hermank
Colin H
Scratchbuilder
📝 a dream project
1 month ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 28 Views · 3 Likes
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I first dropped the cloth over bottom and straight sides, secured with pins and applied the epoxy to cure. The bow and stern section were done after proper curing of the first stage. I wanted to be sure the general orientation of the cloth remained unaltered. The cloth did not adjust well to all the curves and inverted shapes of the hull. I am not sure which type of cloth I got but it was the lightest available.
I had applied 2 coats of epoxy water sealer first. In hindsight this may have been overkill. Since this is my first attempt I can accept I had to learn my lessons.
I had applied 2 coats of epoxy water sealer first. In hindsight this may have been overkill. Since this is my first attempt I can accept I had to learn my lessons.
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hermank
Colin H
Scratchbuilder
📝 a dream project
1 month ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 42 Views · 3 Likes
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Thanks for the video. Although more hindsight it still confirms I managed as best with what I had. With inverted shapes, it makes it very hard to avoid cutting and overlapping, making sanding after curing necessary. Regrettably the epoxy I had was less fluid as the video depicts and some small spots did come away from the hull to form bubbles, which I had to sand out and refill. Now its back to sanding and getting everything super smooth.
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hermank
Colin H
Scratchbuilder
📝 a dream project
1 month ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 47 Views · 4 Likes
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Finished the glassing bow and stern. Disappointed
the cloth did not always adhere properly and had come away in some small spots from the hull during the curing process. Had to cut to avoid major creases which made the process a bit messy once the cloth is soaked in epoxy. But hope once fully cured I can sand it in order to obtain a smooth finish. Any bubbles I plan to cut out and use filler. Any comments would be welcome.
the cloth did not always adhere properly and had come away in some small spots from the hull during the curing process. Had to cut to avoid major creases which made the process a bit messy once the cloth is soaked in epoxy. But hope once fully cured I can sand it in order to obtain a smooth finish. Any bubbles I plan to cut out and use filler. Any comments would be welcome.
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Colin H
hermank
cdnfurball
Scratchbuilder
📝 a dream project
1 month ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Just a quick update.... after 2 coats of water sealer and a series of corrections and sanding which delayed the glassing by about 2 weeks, finally did the first stage with the fibre glass. Now the tricky part starts with cutting and trimming the cloth for the final application to achieve seamless joints at the bow and stern. Didn't find any info on the best process to do this but for my first attempt just have to use common sense and go slow. With epoxy shelf life of 30 mins a daunting task.
One question on the RC: I have an older Futuba set up given to me which came with servo but I have to buy a ESC. I am using the Krick 1:150 geared motor running on a 12V acid M/Bike battery. Checked with the local shop and they wanted to sell me one which cost C$ 150.00. I declined as I thought bit pricey and wanted to check around. Does that make sense or are there other options.
One question on the RC: I have an older Futuba set up given to me which came with servo but I have to buy a ESC. I am using the Krick 1:150 geared motor running on a 12V acid M/Bike battery. Checked with the local shop and they wanted to sell me one which cost C$ 150.00. I declined as I thought bit pricey and wanted to check around. Does that make sense or are there other options.
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cdnfurball
Colin H
hermank
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LewZ
📝 a dream project
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 64 Views · 2 Likes
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I am almost done with the plastering and rough sanding of the hull. I am very pleased with the Famowood product. It lends itself ideally to small area sculpting and when dry is quite stable. Some more light touch ups and then onto water sealing with epoxy, more sanding, second coat and then glassing. I am a bit nervous as the epoxy will last only 30 mins once mixed. So with necessary trimming and cutting to make it a proper fit without creases or over lapping I think it is best to do it in stages. Any tips anybody?
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Colin H
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📝 a dream project
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 85 Views · 7 Likes
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It's the 94000tdw Tanker Esso Deutschland. A scratch built from original yard plans. I have no experience with similar products. I got the tip from a member on this site and I am happy with it. It may be tricky to mould shape rather than plain filling and patching. I still have to do that with the bow which turned out a bit too raked for my liking. It appears very brittle and fragile if bumped into hard objects. I will tell you how it turns out.
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hermank
Scratchbuilder
Peejay
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johnf
Colin H
flaxbybuck
📝 a dream project
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Sides of Poop and Back deck now installed. Rudder and Propeller shaft epoxied in and I am fairly happy with the result although I had to do a lot of adjustments and filling (thanks Brightwork for the Famowood tip, the filler is easy to work with). Doing the last filling, then final sanding and water sealing with glassing and eventually painting.Hope to have it all done by end May.
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hermank
cdnfurball
boatmam
RonBMK2
Colin H
Newby7
📝 a dream project
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Rod... you got it right. The first project was in 1:200 scale. I actually never seen again since the 1970's until last fall. Somebody repainted it (the wrong color) and all of the superstructure and all the parts I had already built have gone missing.
The present attempt is in 1:150 scale which gives me a better chance to replicate parts I can't buy.
Too bad Modelshops are becoming a thing of the past. They used to be a very good one in North Vancouver near Lonsdale but they moved and virtually disappeared.
The present attempt is in 1:150 scale which gives me a better chance to replicate parts I can't buy.
Too bad Modelshops are becoming a thing of the past. They used to be a very good one in North Vancouver near Lonsdale but they moved and virtually disappeared.
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📝 a dream project
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Hi Ron. Yes I am in Langley. The only other models in my attempts is the original Esso Deutschland from back in 1964 which never was completed in its details and the Billings Blue Nose which needs some of the rigging and sails.
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📝 a dream project
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 56 Views · 1 Like
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Greg... I had to learn how soldering works and it took two attempts. First I tried if I could make railings, soldering pieces of brass wire. I found this too tedious and not precise. I am still looking for photo etch stanchions to suit the scale. When I tried soldering the shaft tube to the brass sheet, I had to realize soldering different thicknesses of material is difficult as it doesn't heat uniformly.
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RodC
📝 a dream project
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Rod..The work shop is in my Condo building for everybody to enjoy. Without it I never would attempted this project. The original is a 94.000 tdw Tanker Esso Deutschland built in my hometown Hamburg in 1963. I had gotten the yard's plans for a school project at the time. Never really finished the model due to time and money constraints in 1965 but below is a picture of the remains still at my now deceased brother's attic
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RodC
Ronald
📝 a dream project
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Now the hull is taking shape with strips glued in with built up bow and stern section.
The main deck is intended to be removable which causes a major challenge to assure watertightness. I intend to glue L plastic moulding along the perimeter and hope for a tight fit sealed with strips of window seals. Since I plan to epoxy the hull inside and out with FG, will the epoxy work with the plastic moulding???
The main deck is intended to be removable which causes a major challenge to assure watertightness. I intend to glue L plastic moulding along the perimeter and hope for a tight fit sealed with strips of window seals. Since I plan to epoxy the hull inside and out with FG, will the epoxy work with the plastic moulding???
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pressonreguardless
RodC
MouldBuilder
📝 a dream project
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Although no post since a long time I have been busy since the fall with the continuation. I decided to built the rudder soldering brass plate to tubing to assure it will be properly centered and glued wood in between the profiles. I wanted to achieve a sharp edge all around.
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AndyN
Colin H
RodC
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💬 Re: Fisher 44 (Motor sail )
1 year ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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On my "dream Project" (1:150) Tanker I built up stern and bow section BB fore and aft of second and last ribs. Since you already did all ribs maybe inserting precut and roughly shaped blocks of wood (balsa?) will help get the job done.
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📝 a dream project
1 year ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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I haven't gotten very far since I first posted about my plans. I just wanted to give you an update since I haven't posted anything since. I had to spent a lot of time deciding on the material as I didn't find was I was planning on using and had to change plans somewhat, which complicated construction. Basically it was a keel plate with frames and B/B for fore and aft stems. I couldn't find a wide enough straight board. I had to go to birch plywood with 2 fore and 2 aft sides able to plane to the curvature. I am building the main hull with water tanks with air valves to obtain loaded draft which poses its own technical difficulties. They will be internally connecting at the bottom, to allow control of water levels by shutting of individual air valves, hoping I can seal top covers (acrylic) air tight.
I was able to use my almost 60 year old 1:200 drawings for mast etc enlarged on my printer to 1:150. So, for now I put everything away for safe storage till the fall as I will be traveling over the summer.
Once I get back at it, I still have to do a lot of fixing inaccuracies on the frames to get everything exact before I start glueing.
I like to get your opinions as to the best epoxy method for waterproofing inside the tanks and ofcourse outer hull as well.
I was able to use my almost 60 year old 1:200 drawings for mast etc enlarged on my printer to 1:150. So, for now I put everything away for safe storage till the fall as I will be traveling over the summer.
Once I get back at it, I still have to do a lot of fixing inaccuracies on the frames to get everything exact before I start glueing.
I like to get your opinions as to the best epoxy method for waterproofing inside the tanks and ofcourse outer hull as well.
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Graham93
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📝 All tools parts and new kits for sale
1 year ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 111 Views · 0 Likes
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I am looking for 1:150 scale whatever you have: railings 8mm 3, bollards, metal gratings, winch parts.
Shipping to Vancouver Canada
email esedlacek323@gmail.com
Shipping to Vancouver Canada
email esedlacek323@gmail.com
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📝 WHAT IS THIS BOAT ? - Any ideas ??
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 62 Views · 2 Likes
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When in High School we did something like it as work shop project. From a solid block of wood we were given templates to saw in the outside frame outlines, then with a planer shaped the hull and then carved out the inside hull. The hull was much deeper thou.
I would guess, because it seems very shallow, this one may be somebody's fantasy design.
I would guess, because it seems very shallow, this one may be somebody's fantasy design.
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philcaretaker
dave976
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Wondering what kind of air valve you used? Is there the kind where a small float will seal the valve preventing water form exiting on top? Would be ideal as pitch could push water out fore or aft.
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dave976
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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Couldn't open video files. I got myself a new MacBook and having had only MS Laptops before not quite familiar with all download functions.
Compressed air sounds complicated for a model unless you find a 12V compressor with enough power to blow out the ballast tanks but 1 or 2 12V pumps should do the job.
Compressed air sounds complicated for a model unless you find a 12V compressor with enough power to blow out the ballast tanks but 1 or 2 12V pumps should do the job.
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RNinMunich
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📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 66 Views · 2 Likes
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I wondered with the gravity drain I would need a whole series of exit holes to speed up the process to make a significant impact. This would ruin the aesthetic appearance albeit at the bottom. I would also need shut off valves or it has to be balanced perfectly with static weights (battery etc)
I wasn't familiar with the Derbyshire fate but it makes the water tightness of the deck cover that much more important.
I wasn't familiar with the Derbyshire fate but it makes the water tightness of the deck cover that much more important.
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RNinMunich
Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 69 Views · 3 Likes
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Thank you for your comments. Fiber glassing hull also inside may be an extra option not to get the wood waterlogged in case it is getting wet. Also building tanks from fibreglassed plywood is a lot cheaper than from acrylic sheets but I like the transparency. Neat idea with your drainage operation but how big/heavy is your battery.
I was thinking having to install water pumps to drain. I may be looking for a source of air valves but this will come up once the the hull is nearing completion.
I was thinking having to install water pumps to drain. I may be looking for a source of air valves but this will come up once the the hull is nearing completion.
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dave976
Colin H
Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
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I figured it will take about 30kgs of ballast, so this will be a lot of tankage and my require optimum space utilization and wondering if the bladder option may achievement this. I will cross that point once I got the hull built but thanks for your suggestion.
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Colin H
Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 69 Views · 5 Likes
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I have spend most of my time since last posting with planning and sourcing suitable material. Also I was able to enlarge some of my old detail drawings to the larger 1:150 scale.
As I planned the built combining the bread and butter method for stem and stern sections and framing in midsection, I was looking for a 5ftx1ft length of 10mm basswood plank as a keel plate.
On my original Model in the '60s this worked very well as basswood was easy to shape and stable. Unable to find suitable lumber I now have to go with birch plywood as a centre plate with rabbeted edging of basswood.
I intend to shape stem B+B for 5-10cm and stern staggered same way to allow for optimal frame construction up to deck level.
What concerns me is the true overall dims with all that rabbeting and joining once its all done. I guess I will be doing a lot of double checking. They may be some other inherent difficulties in this process but maybe somebody can speak from experience.
My other issues is the watertightness of the main deck to be removable over entire length. I hope to have 1mm edge of deck coaming, sturdy to withstand deck edge with some form of insulation pressing against it for optimal sealing. I thought of using an L shape plastic moulding, as the top side flush on top of the frame stringer and epoxied over on the outside.
Last item of concern are the water tanks to be able to load model to draft level when in the water. Unable to find something suitable, wondering if I have to go and built them from acrylic sheets.
If any one has any ideas or suggestions don't hold back.
As I planned the built combining the bread and butter method for stem and stern sections and framing in midsection, I was looking for a 5ftx1ft length of 10mm basswood plank as a keel plate.
On my original Model in the '60s this worked very well as basswood was easy to shape and stable. Unable to find suitable lumber I now have to go with birch plywood as a centre plate with rabbeted edging of basswood.
I intend to shape stem B+B for 5-10cm and stern staggered same way to allow for optimal frame construction up to deck level.
What concerns me is the true overall dims with all that rabbeting and joining once its all done. I guess I will be doing a lot of double checking. They may be some other inherent difficulties in this process but maybe somebody can speak from experience.
My other issues is the watertightness of the main deck to be removable over entire length. I hope to have 1mm edge of deck coaming, sturdy to withstand deck edge with some form of insulation pressing against it for optimal sealing. I thought of using an L shape plastic moulding, as the top side flush on top of the frame stringer and epoxied over on the outside.
Last item of concern are the water tanks to be able to load model to draft level when in the water. Unable to find something suitable, wondering if I have to go and built them from acrylic sheets.
If any one has any ideas or suggestions don't hold back.
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stevedownunder
Martin555
Scratchbuilder
dave976
Colin H
📝 Model boat parts and accessories
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 59 Views · 1 Like
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I am planning on building a model in 1:150 scale and will be looking/sourcing hand wheels dia. 3mm, cog wheels for scratchbuilding steam winches, pollers and fairleads to scale. If you have any of these in the proper size would love take it off your hands.👍
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Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 74 Views · 1 Like
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Thanks for the tip. Well aware that will work too. Thank you
Erich
Erich
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Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 74 Views · 2 Likes
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Thank you for your response.
Well aware of the Esso Tanker site. The first of the launching right were I was standing as she came down the slip. The second is actually from the 2. Esso Deutschland built in the 70's
Erich
Well aware of the Esso Tanker site. The first of the launching right were I was standing as she came down the slip. The second is actually from the 2. Esso Deutschland built in the 70's
Erich
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dave976
Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 73 Views · 1 Like
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Thanks for the good wishes Erich
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Martin555
📝 a dream project
2 years ago by 🇨🇦 JockScott ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 73 Views · 1 Like
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Thanks for the tips.
Erich
Erich
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Martin555
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