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    Joe727
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    Member No.#5318
    RegisteredπŸ“…4th Dec 2018
    Last OnlineπŸ“…30th May 2020
    CityπŸ“Laguna Beach
    CountryπŸ‡ΊπŸ‡ΈUnited States
    Gender♂️Male
    AgeπŸ‘Ά68
    PostsπŸ’¬331
    FollowersπŸ“£3
    Likes ReceivedπŸ‘753

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    πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦ Ron ( Lieutenant Commander)
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    3 Followers
    Recent Activity
    Followed ianed57 6 hours ago
    Liked Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress 6 hours ago
    Liked Lorraine 2 6 hours ago
    Liked SEA COMANDER RE-FURB. 8 hours ago
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    Members Harbour
    Rescue Tug
    Rescue tug is based on Springer tug plans for the hull and drive. The superstructure is scratch build with polystyrene. Constructed to assist in recovering stranded sailing yachts at the local pond. It has two - 4.5ah 6 volt batteries which give a nice balanced ballast and provide for hours of run time. See my build log for more details, search "rescue tug". 😎
    (Tug Boat) Brooklyn Steam Tug
    I built this from a Dumas Tug Kit, nice kit with lots of detail. Two SLA batteries provide ballast along with lead weight. Gearing is from an older type model aircraft type. ESC is a marine type, forward, backward drive, big 4" Dumas prop. This tug is back in dry dock for addition of led navigational lighting. The initial build was undertaken while I was battling stage 4 cancer, it keep my mind occupied during chemo and surgery recovery, stayed positive! Model building is very meditative to me, try it if you have't, Have fun. Photos to come once out of dry dock. (Motor: 550 dc) (ESC: Tamar T15) (8/10)
    (Yacht) US1Meter
    This is a US1Meter class boat that I built with the lendgendary southern Californis boat builder Swede Johnson. His design and molds. Fiberglass hull, carbon fiber rudder, keel, spars and mast. Nice fast boat. (5/10)
    (Other) SeaTurtle
    Scratch built gaff rigged cutter sailboat. RC sails, rudder and auxially motor. (Motor: 550) (5/10)
    Recent Posts
    πŸ’¬ Re: Sheet locations, Keel Box epoxied
    5 hours ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ian,
    Thanks for the interest and your comments.

    My experience with casting lead bulbs is limited to when I did it with the gentleman that taught me how to build sailing yachts. He had a shop setup with all of the required equipment. To start, he had created a number of bulb shapes and various weights on his lathe. All were aerodynamic shapes. I'll call them plugs.

    These plugs were used to make sand molds. Lead was melt, slag skimmed off and poured into the sand molds. We made a number of bulbs at the same time with other club members because setup took some doing.

    I'll have to admit it was a tricky and dangerous process and not something I would do on my own.

    Bulbs can be purchased online, not inexpensive as lead prices are up and shipping gets expensive.

    Joe
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    πŸ“ SEA COMANDER RE-FURB.
    8 hours ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Nerys / Colin
    Thank you for the information. I am from the States and a little slow sometimes....oh, I get it Poundland, like our DollarStores!
    JoeπŸ˜‰
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    10 hours ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555,
    I wish there was a simple answer to your question, a simple formula, but the keel design and weight is just a part of the overall sailboat design. The hull size and shape, mast designs and amount of sails to be carried are just parts of the design. I don't claim to be an expert on sailboat design, not even close. Too much to try to cover in a blog.

    There are many great books on this subject and design and research continue today. It is fascinating and I started on the model boats aspect in about 2003 and continue to learn each day.

    Even this boat, based on the Star 45 design, does not give a specific bulb weight, just a suggested range. Once the boat is completely assembled with sails in place there are balance tests that I do, I'll take some photos at that point. The bulb weight may have to be adjusted at that point. I already had this bulb on hand so it's a start. At 6 lbs I suspect it may be a little light, we will see.

    Thanks for your interest.
    Joe
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    πŸ“ SEA COMANDER RE-FURB.
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Hello,
    What brand name is this glue?
    I'm always looking for a less expensive alternative.
    Joe
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    πŸ“ SY Minnow water test
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ian,
    Enjoyed the photos and videos, thanks. πŸ‘
    Joe 😎
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    πŸ“ Sheet locations, Keel Box epoxied
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Photos show drilling of sheet openings at two points. Shown with vertical pencils in photo.

    Continued with keel box, added lid which is epoxied in place. Hole accepts metal rod from keel and bulb. Once keel and bulb are installed, the metal rod will be in tension. Keel and bulb can be removed for transport if desired.

    Now in the process of costing the interior of the hull in epoxy resin.
    😌😴😴😴Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: "Marge"
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555,
    Marge is already looking good, I am surprised that the type of plastic in these tubs is "glueable", always assumed it wasn't. I will have to try as I like not spending any money for materials!

    Keep up the good work. πŸ‘
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Noobie Question
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Bill,
    I have been using the Mtroniks Esc's for years, my preferred esc! I am not sure about the rating issue but I have never had any problems with them. Easy to install, program and use.
    Joe
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    πŸ“ Mast Step, Rudder Servo & Keel Box
    1 day ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    I've determined where I want the feed openings for the sheets to be for the main sail and job. ("Sheets" is the term for the lines that will run from the servo arm to the booms to control the sails). Since these want to be centered along the boat centerline they will puncture the King Plank, so I am reinforcing the king planks to allow for a cut opening.

    The Mast has a base with a 1/8" dia pin that will sit in the mast step. Made a mast step out of 1/4" x 3/4" aluminum bar. Cut and drilled, then set in place on bottom of the hull, see photo.

    Did a simple plywood support for the rudder servo, see photo with servo set in place.

    Keel slot needs a box that encloses it to a height above the boats water line. Built of 1/8" plywood, then coated inside and out with resin. Set in place with epoxy. Will get a sealed top...coming soon.

    Always put my Titebond in my little containers. Back to work.
    Joe🀞
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    2 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Doug,
    Thank you for the great comments. Every build has a learning curve, so it's nice to be learning new techniques and experimenting.
    Regards,
    Joe 😎
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    πŸ“ HMS RODNEY 1/96th Build
    2 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Pulled out the cannon barrel that I turned on my lathe out of brass bar. Maybe this will work.......
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    πŸ“ Keel & Rudder Mockup, Lead Bulb work in progress
    2 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    For this build I will be using what I have on hand whenever possible. The lead bulb shown is about 6 lbs and is one of several bulbs that I cast back in 2006.

    The keel and rudder are VERY ROUGH at this point. They are laminated layers of plywood which will be shaped further to a more aerodynamic shape. Once shaped, I will fiberglass and paint them.

    The hull "design" has a center of bouyancy 0.4" ahead of the station shown, I put a brass screw to mark this spot so I can see this point on the bottom of the hull. 3 1/2" slot was then marked and cut. Next photos show the mockup of the rudder and keel fin on the hull. Looks okay to me, just need to refine both.

    More on the hull work later today.
    Joe 😎
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    πŸ“ HMS RODNEY 1/96th Build
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    So cool, it's another aspect of the hobby that I had not considered!

    I'm thinking about arming my sailing yachts... more than one way to win a regatta.

    Thanks for sharing, really nice. πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘

    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Off the Building Board
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Pete,
    Well thank you, the inside always needs some cleaning up, but she's holding together. Thank you for your interest! πŸ‘
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Off the Building Board
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sy,
    Have to give some credit to the old www for available info.

    In my career, I was basically a problem solver, first step was always to gather all the facts, clearly define the problem first, no preconceptions! Never jump to conclusions. I would imagine that as a military man you had similar training.....
    Joe πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘ppl
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Off the Building Board
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555
    I would have been shocked if it came off and twisted like a pretzel!

    Thanks for your positive comments,
    Joe 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The cabin continues again .....!
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Cabins looking really good, nice design.
    JoeπŸ‘
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    πŸ“ Off the Building Board
    3 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    The hulls second coat of resin went well and I decided that if I do a third resin coat it will happen after the deck is on. So I cut the hull from the building board support. I was amazed at how light the hull is, almost nothing. That cedar bottom was very light after all.

    Installed king planks. Now comes the fun part, locating the mast, keel and rudder. This is a proven design but these location are always critical and it doesn't hurt to leave some tolerance for adjustment once it's ready for the pond. Framed an opening for the mast which I will place through the deck and will sit on a base just above the hull bottom. The mast will be removable for easy transport. Keel slot started as seen in the photos and will be 3 1/4" long to accommodate the keel insert. Planks cut from pine were installed on both side of hull to act as shroud hardware support.

    Still having fun.
    Joe 😎😁
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Lorraine 2
    4 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Nice deck work! Thanks for the great photos.
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Re: (Yacht) US1Meter
    4 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Thanks for posting that link.
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Let’s start the cabin!
    4 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sy,
    Everything is so well laid out, so clean.....must be that military discipline! Looking good. πŸ‘
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    JB,
    Really great information on glassing, very helpful. I especially like the use of clips on the excess cloth, would have saved me some sanding of those fold areas. I will have to look into the cloth you mentioned.

    I am still a novice when it comes to fiberglass work so all the tips I can get are great! πŸ‘
    Joe
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    πŸ“ 2nd Coat of Resin
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    This morning I put a second coat of resin on the hull. But first I washed the off the amine blush, couldn't really see it but scrubbed the hull with warm water and dried anyway. I've read that it is sometimes transparent, so wash away.

    Sanded the high spots and roughed the hull for a second coat. I applied this coat using a brush only and considered applying a third coat while the second was still tacky. I decided I was not in a rush so I would wait overnight, sand and then do a third coat. No need to rush this build, just enjoying it.
    Joe 😎😎😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Outer Sheer Rails & Bottom Planking
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Mturpin,

    Yes, I'll explain the reason for the thin plywood. This boat design is for speed and racing in regatta, therefore the intent is to keep it light weight with the boat weight located as much as possible in the keel.

    The initial design (not mine) is based on the Star 45 design which is typically an all painted hull. The only reason the bottom is planked is that it is a compound cure, can't do with plywood sheets unless in strips. The sides are flat curves so weight can be saved with the 1/16" ply.

    The intent has been to paint the entire hull but since the cedar bottom looks pretty good I may leave it clear.

    Thanks for the question.
    Joe😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: (Yacht) US1Meter
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ron,
    I looked up your M12 on the Canadian site, is it the Mini M12 that is 45" long and weighs about 15lbs?

    My current build is also 45" long and will weigh about the same. It will use a keel and bulb similar to the US1Meter.
    Joe 😎
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    πŸ’¬ Re: (Yacht) US1Meter
    5 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Ron,
    As you requested, here are some photos of two US1Meter racing yachts that I built so you can see the entire hull, keel and bulb.

    The burgundy boat was my first build and is more of a traditional hull design. The Teal colored boat is more of a torpedo or submarine shape.

    The last photo is of the late Swede Johnson with two examples of his "hot dog" US1Meters that he designed and built. These are predecessors to the Teal boat design.

    I see that the US1Meter is also sailed in Canada, are you planning on building one?
    Regards, Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    6 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Pete,
    As it cured it did raise some high spots where the folds were (on the bottom only). I will sand those and do some additional coats of resin today. Overall it did work out okay.
    Thanks for your interest.
    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    6 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Sy
    I agree, credit cards are a perfect size for these size projects.

    Thanks for the comments

    Joe
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    πŸ’¬ Re: New Mast
    6 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Another source for carbon fiber tubes is archery arrows, they are about 5/16" x 24" and I use the for booms on racing yachts. There's an Archery shop nearby and for some reason they save old arrows in a box, they give me them for free.
    Joe πŸ˜€
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    πŸ’¬ Re: She's wet......with glass!
    6 days ago by Joe727 ( Lieutenant)
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    Martin555,
    I have never used rollers. The fellow that taught me only used a brush, I use a brush and a spreader / squeege. I have a number of different types of rollers, I will have to try that, it sounds like it makes sense. I know that if I overwork an area with a squeege it can cause bubbles to form.

    I will be doing some additional coats on Sunday, I may test the roller idea, thanks.
    Joe
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