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>> Home > Members > Joe727
Registered
4th Dec 2018
Last Online
16th Feb 2019
Joe727

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 5318
Registered 4th Dec 2018
Last Online 16th Feb 2019
City Laguna Beach
Country United States
Boats in Harbour 3
Sailing Locations 0
Forum Posts 36
Photos Posted 257
Likes Received 167
Likes Given 200
129 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
No Sailing Locations
Harbour
Brooklyn Steam Tug
Type: Tug Boat
US1Meter
Type: Yacht
SeaTurtle
Type: Yacht
Fleet Admiral!
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
Top Ranking Member!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 24
Forum Thread 5 30
Forum Post 2 72
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 10
Photos Response 3 9
Video Post 15 0
Video Response 3 6
Build Blog 20 60
Blog Post 5 185
Blog Response 3 138
Sailor 8 0
Guestbook Post 8 8
Liked Posts 1 200
Received Likes 2 334
1076 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
United States
Recent Posts
Build Finalized by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Ed / Donnieboy, Thank you for the compliments, I appreciate it. It's the first quick build, most of mine take 1-2 years. It's making me think about how to improve on build times. Thanks again. Joe

PS Iona - misc fittings by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
I like the detailed photos, looks good, I have been looking for some witches so thanks for the info. Overall I enjoyed seeing the build as it is something very different from what I normally do. Congratulations on a nice build. Cheers, Joe

U49 Mclaren Clockwork Submarines. by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 4 days ago
Martin, Your Subs are very nice, beautiful workmanship! Your skill at tin work is inspiring. Joe

Rudder location, blocking, fabrication by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Looking at the proper rudder location, I added some 1/4 triangular hardwood blocking to both sides of the centerboard. Needed blocking to drill through. Was able to pickup the work board and all fit under my drill press to keep the hole plumb. Rudder post will be a 1/4 brass rod with brass tube as a bushing. See photo, brass tube in hull. Next, I built a rudder substructure assembly which will be covered later with a wood or styrene full size rudder to fit the era. Took some very thin brass and formed it around the post, some brass plate and soldered as seen in photos. Brass heats up and solders well using my soldering station.

Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Steve, You are quite right, I intend to flip it over, build some jigs, when it's time to do the hull "planking". My methods are to experiment along the way on a Build, try different ideas along the way. Decided that I first wanted to build a very straight, rigid keel with stern and bow ribs first. That's why the build board is just a lightweight flat straight surface, I figure out how to clamp it best as I go. Your interest and comments are appreciated, it made me think more about the planking, thanks! Joe

Simple Building board by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 8 days ago
Hello, Photos attached show my quick inexpensive building board. All I needed was a lightweight, movable board that I could clamp to. I had a scrap of tempered hardboard about 35" x 16, so I cut two strips from it at about 2" wide from it and used them as legs to keep the thin top flat and straight. Then took some scrap wood pieces as a method to glue and secure. Result was a little table that I could clamp to. Hope this makes sense, but point is work with what you have, I considered a trip to the lumber company for wood, glad I didn't. Joe

Build Finalized by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hello, Finally put some finishing touches on my Rescue Vessel BUILD. Added rubber bumpers to assist in rescuing at bow and stern. Removed the smoker unit as these was complicating the build and was against one of my original objectives....Keep it Simple! Overal all I am pleased with is build, it was fun, quick and built mostly with scraps and parts on hand. The Springer Tug design is a great starter design and can be easily modified to personal tastes. I recommend this to those out there to get some initial or just more experience at building. It's fun! Joe

Roof magnets by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Thanks for posting the jig with the cam action, nice simple and looks pretty effective. I will have to try that soon on some current work. Cheers, Joe

Clamp Chaos by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 9 days ago
Hello, It's been a slow week as I started out having some teeth pulled, put me off track so I missed getting some photos. I will get some better shots of what the keel board looks like once I get some clamps out of the way. I will photo how I do the last four ribs as well. Photos show my makeshift board with clamps everywhere. Joe

San Pedro by Harbor Models! by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 10 days ago
Ed, This is probably my favorite part of a build, deciding what to build! So many great boats out there, how many tugs do you currently have? Just curious.. Do you ever build sailboats? That's how I got started, with sails, like the history and quiet running of course. Glad to see you are jumping on to the next build, I liked your detailed blog on the Brooklyn, very well done. Cheers, Joe

Keel by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 13 days ago
Printed out the frames /ribs drawings and outlined each in orange so I could easily see the correct lines. Cut those out and pasted to some plywood. The plywood is Baltic Birch 1/4" -5 ply, very nice quality that I get from a local woodworking supply store. It's a bit nicer than from the local warehouse hardware lumber yard, but that would work also. Used some spray rubber cement, sprayed only the paper back and stuck on the plywood. Spraying just one surface allows quick removal of the paper once cut. I don't have a bandsaw of scroll saw, so I use a sabresaw/hand jigsaw mounted upside down on a surface that secures to my drill press. Works pretty good. My shop is so tiny that I just don't have a space for larger tools. Maybe someday. Keel board was glued up, will show more tomorrow on that. Joe

Planning Ahead by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 14 days ago
Spent the last two days studying the barge design and planning the build. First I scanned the small book-page size images, then with my laptop I cropped them into separate smaller images to my chosen scale. I cut, align and tape them, assemble an image that is to the size of the build. In the past I would use the local print shop and just enlarged on their large roll printer. It added up to a lot of money as they are about $7 a shot, with mistakes made it cost too much. Now that I am retired I pinch those pennies much tighter. This was more time consuming but is very accurate. Next I sketched out the keel board shape, colored up as seen in the photos. Sketch out an idea to accommodate the bulb keel that I intend to add. This one is to sail on Sunday's at the pond, so I will do my best to engineer to sail well. Cheers Joe

What scale by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Do a search and see if you can find the length oh the original boat was. Then I can show you the math. Example: 90' boat / 45" model 45 divided by 90 equals .5 or 1/2" So 1/2" = 1'-0" or 1/24th scale You get scale ... 12" divided by 1/2" equals 24 Good luck, Joe

1950s sea commander refurb. by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 15 days ago
Collin, What a great project... I have recently been taking small images and blowing them up by selecting smaller areas, say the cabin roof only, then printing that on A4. Usually these files have high enough resolution to make some very readable files. If you have a computer, they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "Paint" or use paint.net.... Take the image and open with Paint, then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save. Be sure you save under a different name so as not to loose the original file. I may be giving you information that you already know, don't mean to insult.. See my photo of some I did last night, pasted about six together to see the 1M boat sections. These are rough as they come from an image only 16cm wide, but good enough for me to build from given some drafting. Good luck with the build, I will be watching. Joe

Ketch Barge "Pearl of Ipswich" by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Michael, Thanks for the interest, I hope I can keep up with your high quality of work. Joe

Determine Scale / Ribs / HELP with building board ideas? by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
To clarify this build, it will be a RC Sailing Boat with full functioning rudder and sails. I say this as I am using the PEARL for its design overall, but as to detailed historical details it will have some, but be simplified. Boat's Dimnsions were shown in Imperial, 21' width x 85'-6" length. The bowsprit adds about another 25% in length. To determine what scale I wanted to build in I thought most about storage, weight to lift and how to transport to the pond. I like to keep things simple, I prefer to rig it and transport while assembled, with the topsail mast dropping and the bowsprit retracted. Have done this before and it has worked well for me. Looking at potential scales and finished sizes. * 3/4" or 1/18 scale would be 16" x 64" * 1/2" or 1/24 scale equals 10.5" x 42.75" * 3/8" equals 8" x 32" I prefer a larger bout in length as it is easier to get to sail correctly, at least in my experience. Anything under 32" get tricky. I like the 64" size, but with bowsprit will be about 88" LOA. This will be a little too large for my vehicle. I decided to go with 1/2" scale as it will still be a good length hull. Ribs - I took the hull line drawings from the book, which were very small, just about an inch wide. I scanned the image and using the app "paint" on my laptop. I cropped it close around the hull rib drawing, I then enlarged it to 1/2" scale. Then I printed on standard letter sized paper, then mirrored the image cut them in two, pasted up as seen in the photos to show the completed rib sections. Next I will put together a building board / hull jig. I want to build bottom up for planking. DO any of you have any good ideas for the best one to build? I have never done this except for tiny boats. Ideas, Help would be appreciated. Joe

Ketch Barge "Pearl of Ipswich" by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Chris, That's very interesting - your Pearl, I assume you meant the real, full scale one..? What kind of barge was it? Thank you for your interest, Joe

Ketch Barge "Pearl of Ipswich" by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
Hello, As I have mentioned before, I like the workboats from the age of sailing. The sailing barges caught my interest some time ago on one of my stays in the UK and I recently purchased a number of books on them. Interesting history, more to it than I realized. Finally decided to build a Ketch Barge that is categorized as a Boomie as well. Several reasons; I wanted to model one of the larger ones, this one is 85', and I like gaff rigged boats with booms. Topsails a must as well and I like ketches. This one fits the bill and who could resist the chance to set 7 to 8 sails! Frank Carr's book tells the story of the barge Pearl and included plan, elevation, lines and sail plans. Nice bit of information, I can build with that. See attached photos. This will probably be a lengthy build, my Falmouth Gaff-rigged Cutter took me two years. I built that one while on assignment in Grand Cayman using only my small kit OD hand tools. More to come, hope to start this week. Cheers, Joe

6 Volts of Course of Course! by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Ed, Good to see you found what you need. I like to use the 6 volts in my tugs as well. My original thinking was that I like to keep my 550 motors running at a lower rpm. The tugs should be slow and powerful, not a speedboat! Good luck completing the work. Joe

Palamo's Fishing boat by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
That's a nice looking kit, I like fishing boats, all work boats in general. Should be a fun challenge, but looks very doable in RC. Good luck! Joe

Test by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Additional photos

Test by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 20 days ago
Today I did a full test of current smoker build, it went very well, nice consistent smoke, very visible. I used just straight a mineral Oil, type sold in Pharmacies. I chose not to use the baby oil again because it had too much of an odor. See video attached. I ran it for one hour, it stays consistent and there was no build up of heat, tin stayed cool. Check of the heating element and wick showed no damage, no build up of any kind, very clean. When I get a chance, I will put a multimeter on it and test the draw so I can fuse it properly. Thanks for you interest. Joe

Fan Surround by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Michael, Thank you for your interest and the questions, I appreciate it. 1. With regard to the rubber stopper, good question. I have not done a lengthy test as yet, but will do. My thinking was that it would not effect the rubber as heat generated seems to be concentrated on the oil. I like the idea of a a metal cap, you have given me an idea, I have some small plumbing pieces that may work. It would be good to eliminate all flammable materials! 2. Varying the smoker with the engine speed has not been one of my goals, here is my thinking. I plan to use this unit on a steam tug, steam boilers seem to put out a constant smoke as the burning does not vary on a steam engine, the steam is just regulated. Hence, I have not done this, many commercial units offer this. I recently purchased a commercial unit for over $100 USD and was not happy with the output, that is why I started this build. From my video you can see how the smoke shoots out. I wanted to slow it down so it just puffs. I have experimented with lowering the fan voltage, but it cuts out below 3 volts. The attached sketch shows my experimenting with allowing some of the air from the fan to npbe redirected out. The tin that I soldered up is shown, took a lot of effort, did not work as planned. I did like the fact that it looked like a whiskey still. 3. Yes, there are smaller fans available on line. I was just using some salvage ones I had - 28mm square. I may experiment with some small fans if budget allows. I am now retired and counting pennies... More on the puffing aspect to come... Joe

Fan Surround by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Third update today, make sure you see the two prior to this one. Mounted fan and built a styrene plastic enclosure around it. Sealed the edge with some silicone. Shown now with stopper inserted. It's ready for a test but I need to add some support legs to keep it vertical as it just rolls over right now. Joe

Tin Work by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
The tin can that I used is from a small tomato paste sauce from the market. Use whatever tin that you would like or can find. Look at my sketch to see how it needs to function and adjust your design to what enclosure is available to you. Lots of ways to do it, just make sure you have these points covered: 1. Method of attaching a fan to push air into the unit. 2. Place for output stack / tube. 3. Method of mounting a wick with heating element attached that can sit above the fluid level. See sketch in previous post. First photo, I cut three holes, each sized to fit the brass tubes and fan opening. This tin is thin and easy to poke holes in. I start by marking the opening locations with a marker, them I use a small sharp awl or pin to stare a hole. With hand tools ( power drill will easy shred the can, be careful) I enlarge the holes with small hand drills or reamer, found files, etc, I rotate the tools slowly in the opening and gradually enlarge it to size needed. Then I cut brass tubing to length with a small hand held hobby razor saw. Our in place, apply flux and solder. Once heated properly the solder flows easily.for the larger fan opening, I then used a dremel tool with sanding drum to make a nice round opening. The fan has corner openings for screw mount. Secure with some tiny sheet metal screws. Next I will build an enclosure around the fabpn edge to fit the round can. Might just use silicone caulk. Note, I did not open the can with a can opener, left the ends in place and poured the content out thru the holes made, Yes, it's a bit messy and wasted the sauce, but it's a cheap way to get an tin enclosure. More to come. Please give me feedback, am I being clear enough? Thanks, Cheers, Joe

Sketches finally.... by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
The horizontal tin can design worked well, so I decided to do another and describe the build. First photo shows the original smoker, it uses a vertical mount squirrel cage type CPU fan. The majority of CPU fans are horizontal so I will build a new smoker with the more common horizontal fan. See sketches attached which are a cut section thru the tin can to show the interior. This explains my design with a stopper that holds the wires and wick. Shows the heating element so that it is above the fluid level. The stopper design makes it easy to remove and allow for any maintenance necessary. Fill fluid can be through the stack tube or through the stopper opening. I have been using the stack tube on my first smoker so as to disturb the wick and element wiring less. Please review the drawing and let me know what questions you have. Next I will take photos as I punch opening in the cans and solder the brass tubes. Cheers Joe

Sports cruiser "ALI" by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
Hello, Looks good! I use PVC for all my wood. CA is not very water resistant. If you can get the waterproof type PVC, use that. If not, if it is just a white glue, make sure all glued areas are covered with a waterproof coating. Such as varnish or paint. When I glue wood, I put glue on each joint, let it sit for a few minutes while it soaks into the wood grain. Apply a bit more glue and press together. Clamp or somehow hold the joint securely while it dries. Most PVCs take at least 30 minutes to set. Depending on the joint, I usually will come back a day later and fill any gap that may appear. PVC creats a joint stronger than wood. CA is brittle and the joint can snap. Give it a try and good luck to you. Joe

White Star BB"570" by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Good use of the magnets. The neodyne magnets are amazingly strong, I used two back to back to hold something, it was so strong I could hardly get the thing apart! Nice work on the boat! Joe

PS Enterprise by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
Hello, I never thought of building a chain driven rudder drive, looks good, I'll have to try it sometime. Joe

Rubber stopper wick & element by Joe727 Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 25 days ago
In the previous post in the video, note that a black rubber stopper is inserted into a brass tube soldered to the tin container. Starting with the element again, select proper length of heater wire by applying voltage to lengths as show previous. Crimped wire to one end. Next photo shows a rubber stopper, I use my drill press to drill to straight holes to allow the voltage supply wire to pass through it. Then I put together a wick with a brass rod (1/16") to provide support and to secure it to the stopper. Brass rod with wick is pushed thru the stopper, drill a pilot hole for the brass rod centered in the stopper. See photos, the supply wires will come thru the stopper at each side of the wick. Put one wire through the stopper, then I wrapped the heating element around the wick. This is tricky and took several attempts to get it done cleanly. The supply wire for the end is then fed back through the stopper. This is a weak part of the design as it must run back to the stopper without touching the heater element. It does work, but I will try to improve on this. This entire assembly fits into the tin can and is the correct length to just submerge the bottom portion of the wick and not the wires. I forgot to do a sketch showing a section through this, but will try tomorrow. Joe