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📝 What tug is this?
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN (
Midshipman)
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hi there, I dont know if this is of any help to yourself however, there is a plan available of the steam tug F C Sturrock Plan is numbered MM1480 - from sarik hobbies. There was a build of this particular tug which was printed in Model Boats Magazine - I am unsure of what year it was - but we can try and find that out for you.
I do have this particular plan myself - and - it is on my 'to do list'
I have just found this on the Model Boats website and this does give the issues etc if you are interested. I do know that these magazines become available on Ebay and also in Magazine Exchange.
"Part 1 was the June 1997 issue of MB and then parts 2, 3, 4 and 5 were in July, Aug, Sept and Oct 1997. They were MB issues 558 to 562 inclusive".
John
I do have this particular plan myself - and - it is on my 'to do list'
I have just found this on the Model Boats website and this does give the issues etc if you are interested. I do know that these magazines become available on Ebay and also in Magazine Exchange.
"Part 1 was the June 1997 issue of MB and then parts 2, 3, 4 and 5 were in July, Aug, Sept and Oct 1997. They were MB issues 558 to 562 inclusive".
John
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📝 Propulsion; three props or other systems
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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building the Kort nozzle and it presented me with a bit of a problem – because of its awkward size in diameter. Normally, I would have used a bit of 3” plastic drainpipe machined to the correct shape and size. This one has an outside diameter/dimension of 68 mm. So, I ended up laminating the Kort from plywood and the procedure I used for this was:
I used a cardboard tube which came from the centre of some knitting yarn which the Mrs is using at the moment. This tube had correct internal dimension required which corresponded with the outside diameter of the Kort nozzle so – this tube became the former for me to build up laminates of 1 mm thick plywood by 30 mm wide by roughly 200 mm long to begin with. The first laminate I applied some cellotape to one side of it to prevent it bonding to the inside of the cardboard tube.
This laminate was placed inside the tube first with no glue on ensuring that the side which had the cellotape on was against the inside of the cardboard tube. The second piece of plywood of similar dimensions, only slightly shorter had the glued to the inner piece of plywood already in the cardboard tube ensuring that the butt joints were opposite each other. Then an assortment of clamps clamping the laminates together – when this had dried, I applied 4 more laminates building up the required wall thickness of the Korts nozzle. This was then allowed to dry out completely and then the cardboard tubing was removed.
I have the facility of a lathe to which I machined the outside/inside angle and polished. This was then given 2 coats of epoxy resin.
For those not having the facility of a lathe – you could make a mandrel up to hold the nozzle and then machine it in an electric drill. From plasticard I also made a double jig up for aligning the nozzle with the prop shaft. Then I located and fixed the nozzle in place using 2 brass pins.
aye
john
I used a cardboard tube which came from the centre of some knitting yarn which the Mrs is using at the moment. This tube had correct internal dimension required which corresponded with the outside diameter of the Kort nozzle so – this tube became the former for me to build up laminates of 1 mm thick plywood by 30 mm wide by roughly 200 mm long to begin with. The first laminate I applied some cellotape to one side of it to prevent it bonding to the inside of the cardboard tube.
This laminate was placed inside the tube first with no glue on ensuring that the side which had the cellotape on was against the inside of the cardboard tube. The second piece of plywood of similar dimensions, only slightly shorter had the glued to the inner piece of plywood already in the cardboard tube ensuring that the butt joints were opposite each other. Then an assortment of clamps clamping the laminates together – when this had dried, I applied 4 more laminates building up the required wall thickness of the Korts nozzle. This was then allowed to dry out completely and then the cardboard tubing was removed.
I have the facility of a lathe to which I machined the outside/inside angle and polished. This was then given 2 coats of epoxy resin.
For those not having the facility of a lathe – you could make a mandrel up to hold the nozzle and then machine it in an electric drill. From plasticard I also made a double jig up for aligning the nozzle with the prop shaft. Then I located and fixed the nozzle in place using 2 brass pins.
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📝 Propulsion; three props or other systems
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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just a quick note, whilst doing a lot of research on the Vosper RTTL Launch; it was discovered that, originally the boats were triple screw all driving in the same direction. Vosper did experiment on these and it was found that there was a slight increase in speed over the prop formation of 2 outboard props turning inboard and the centre prop was turning inboard or outboard and that it made no difference to the speed. It was also found, later on, that with the props all turning in the same direction the boat did have a tendency to corkscrew when going on the plane and the boat would dive into the next wave in front. Consequently breaking planking on the bottom of the hull at the bow. So, Vosper strengthened the hull by adding a 3rd layer of planking to the bottom of these boats. The other thing which has been mentioned is that during the War the shortage of materials for making reverse drive gear boxes was one of the main reasons for all of the MTBs and PT boats shafts driving in the same direction .
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📝 Prop selection for triple (3) props
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
I believe this question may have been asked on Mayhem Forum and to which I posted several photographs of fast plaining vessels, to show which way the props turn. But, having said that, we will try this way .... normally you would have your 2 outboard props turning inwards; and, depending on the design of the vessel, the centre prop will either rotate port or starboard. However, on lifesized vessels, they have the ability to control the speeds of the props whilst the vessel is turning. Slow the inboard prop down and speed the outside prop up, depending on which way the vessel is turning. Normally whilst performing manouvres like this the centre prop is slowed down, so, it doesnt influence any turning. In model ways, we can assimilate this as there are mixers on the market which we incorporate with our speed controllers which allow us to do this. One of them is from ACTion which has the speed controllers and the mixer combined. This allows you to add a 3rd speed controller for your centre prop. There are obviously other mixers on the market.
As far as prop walk - it would be very negligable on our scale models unless all the props are turning in the same direction when it does have affect.
John
I believe this question may have been asked on Mayhem Forum and to which I posted several photographs of fast plaining vessels, to show which way the props turn. But, having said that, we will try this way .... normally you would have your 2 outboard props turning inwards; and, depending on the design of the vessel, the centre prop will either rotate port or starboard. However, on lifesized vessels, they have the ability to control the speeds of the props whilst the vessel is turning. Slow the inboard prop down and speed the outside prop up, depending on which way the vessel is turning. Normally whilst performing manouvres like this the centre prop is slowed down, so, it doesnt influence any turning. In model ways, we can assimilate this as there are mixers on the market which we incorporate with our speed controllers which allow us to do this. One of them is from ACTion which has the speed controllers and the mixer combined. This allows you to add a 3rd speed controller for your centre prop. There are obviously other mixers on the market.
As far as prop walk - it would be very negligable on our scale models unless all the props are turning in the same direction when it does have affect.
John
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📝 Warships Only
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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here are a couple of pics of half my Naval fleet. HMS Exeter at 1:96 scale; HMS York 1:96 scale; Fairmile B 1:12 scale - all of them plank on frame, scratch built.
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📝 Building from plans
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi
I am in the camp of tracing paper for transferring from plans to building materials. The main reason for this is once you have traced all your building frames along with water lines and verticals, you can lay the tracing paper one on top of the other to ensure that they all align up correctly and you can make sure you don't have any mis shaped /out of line frames.
The other bonus is when you draw the internals of the frames i.e. where you are going to cut the centres out. If you trace this as well, you can flick the tracing paper over so that they are identical both sides. The third and final bonus to this system is you can place all your tracings onto the building materials and move them around so you can obtain the most economical spacings for your frames from the building materials sheet.
Just as a side note about lite ply - an old dear friend Dave Milbourn used to swear by it - but you must ensure it is water proofed well. I normally give mine a couple of coats of HMG Paints Sanding Sealer. It does stink, but it does the job great.
John
I am in the camp of tracing paper for transferring from plans to building materials. The main reason for this is once you have traced all your building frames along with water lines and verticals, you can lay the tracing paper one on top of the other to ensure that they all align up correctly and you can make sure you don't have any mis shaped /out of line frames.
The other bonus is when you draw the internals of the frames i.e. where you are going to cut the centres out. If you trace this as well, you can flick the tracing paper over so that they are identical both sides. The third and final bonus to this system is you can place all your tracings onto the building materials and move them around so you can obtain the most economical spacings for your frames from the building materials sheet.
Just as a side note about lite ply - an old dear friend Dave Milbourn used to swear by it - but you must ensure it is water proofed well. I normally give mine a couple of coats of HMG Paints Sanding Sealer. It does stink, but it does the job great.
John
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💬 Re: Propeller Shafts and Propellers to Complete the Drive Train
2 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there,
As has already been mentioned, adding electrician tape to the outside of the hull, whilst epoxying your propeller shafts in place, is one of the best methods.
Also, one of the tips which I learned was to make 2 plywood templates up with the correct distance between your prop shafts and the hull & this is placed over the end of the prop shafts to keep them in line. One plywood jig on the outside and one identical plywood jig on the inside over the prop shafts. This helps keep the shafts parallel whilst the epoxy sets.
John
As has already been mentioned, adding electrician tape to the outside of the hull, whilst epoxying your propeller shafts in place, is one of the best methods.
Also, one of the tips which I learned was to make 2 plywood templates up with the correct distance between your prop shafts and the hull & this is placed over the end of the prop shafts to keep them in line. One plywood jig on the outside and one identical plywood jig on the inside over the prop shafts. This helps keep the shafts parallel whilst the epoxy sets.
John
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💬 Re: Rudders Fitted
3 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
I made my servo horns for my RTTL from an old 3-pin plug and 2 strips of brass. Also, I use what is known as a closed circuit system for the push rods to the rudder servo whereas the 2 rudder horns are joined together.
John
I made my servo horns for my RTTL from an old 3-pin plug and 2 strips of brass. Also, I use what is known as a closed circuit system for the push rods to the rudder servo whereas the 2 rudder horns are joined together.
John
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💬 Re: Bluebird k-7
4 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi ya there my friend, when I first built Bluebird, I worked to the formulae of the surface area of Bluebirds air intakes must equal the surface area of the fan face. Don't forget, or as you may already know, any obstructions in the front of the fan will decrease the efficiency drastically. So, that was why I suggested removing Donald and the plastic canopy. The model I built, I used a wire mesh to represent the canopy and it is hard to tell the difference when she is on the lake. Also, you are right about making a funnel to channel the air from the air ducts to the fan. A lot of failures of Bluebird and ducted fans is because many people miss this out. What actually happens, is, you cannot supply sufficient air through the ducts and it creates a vacuum between the ducts and the fan.
Here are a couple of pics of the build of mine showing the air funnel from the ducts to the fan.
John
Here are a couple of pics of the build of mine showing the air funnel from the ducts to the fan.
John
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💬 Re: Bluebird k-7
4 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi, I like that mind, it is as smart as a dart that one is.
Here is food for thought - if you lose Donald & the perspex canopy to increase air flow into the ducted fan; an 80 mm 12 bladed fan running on 22 volts should give you in the region of about 6 - 6.5 lb thrust which should just get her on the plane.
It all really depends on the size and weight of your batteries.
If you want to go down the route of the old brushless motor and propeller there is a good topic which ran on model boat mayhem, where a few people actually converted Bluebird to being prop driven & had pretty good results. If you aren't already a member of the Mayhem forum you could join just to see photographs & etc.
All good stuff my friend.
Here is a link:
Here is food for thought - if you lose Donald & the perspex canopy to increase air flow into the ducted fan; an 80 mm 12 bladed fan running on 22 volts should give you in the region of about 6 - 6.5 lb thrust which should just get her on the plane.
It all really depends on the size and weight of your batteries.
If you want to go down the route of the old brushless motor and propeller there is a good topic which ran on model boat mayhem, where a few people actually converted Bluebird to being prop driven & had pretty good results. If you aren't already a member of the Mayhem forum you could join just to see photographs & etc.
All good stuff my friend.
Here is a link:
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📝 Help identify a part completed project
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 35 Views · 6 Likes
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Hi there
Just to give you some idea of what can be achieved with the internals of the boat, without removing the deck - these models require a small amount of power to push them along at quite a speed. So, in this model that I built there was a 385/400 MFA motor driving a 35mm 4 bladed brass prop. I used (I think it was a 7.2 NiCad battery). Bear in mind this model was built in the 90s - the weird looking circuitry either side of the motor on the strip board is an actual home made speed controller. As you can see, there is a standard servo which I fitted and a miniature receiver. There is also room for a power supply of 4.5 volt for the radio gear.
With today's new technology and cheaper speed controllers from China - which we will all have to buy awfully quickly - so we have plenty in stock for future projects - I can see no problems with fitting out this little model.
One thing to note with the model I built, it was plank on frame and not balsa wood.
The funnel was made from a 'Haliborange vitamin C tube'.
John
Just to give you some idea of what can be achieved with the internals of the boat, without removing the deck - these models require a small amount of power to push them along at quite a speed. So, in this model that I built there was a 385/400 MFA motor driving a 35mm 4 bladed brass prop. I used (I think it was a 7.2 NiCad battery). Bear in mind this model was built in the 90s - the weird looking circuitry either side of the motor on the strip board is an actual home made speed controller. As you can see, there is a standard servo which I fitted and a miniature receiver. There is also room for a power supply of 4.5 volt for the radio gear.
With today's new technology and cheaper speed controllers from China - which we will all have to buy awfully quickly - so we have plenty in stock for future projects - I can see no problems with fitting out this little model.
One thing to note with the model I built, it was plank on frame and not balsa wood.
The funnel was made from a 'Haliborange vitamin C tube'.
John
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📝 Help identify a part completed project
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi ya there,
Thank you for your kind comments. The model has been made for a while now - something like 20 0dd years - the figures are 1:35 Tamiya make and I think they are the loading crew off the flack gun (if I remember rightly). I think the figure standing at the side with a blue suit on, came from Deans Marine, because he is made from white metal. I have been on the Deans site - but - I cannot find any at 1:35 scale, only at 1:24 and some smaller - as in 1:96 scale.
I have heard reports that the figures you receive, you may have to do a good bit of work on them to make them look respectable. I Hope this helps.
John
Thank you for your kind comments. The model has been made for a while now - something like 20 0dd years - the figures are 1:35 Tamiya make and I think they are the loading crew off the flack gun (if I remember rightly). I think the figure standing at the side with a blue suit on, came from Deans Marine, because he is made from white metal. I have been on the Deans site - but - I cannot find any at 1:35 scale, only at 1:24 and some smaller - as in 1:96 scale.
I have heard reports that the figures you receive, you may have to do a good bit of work on them to make them look respectable. I Hope this helps.
John
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📝 Help identify a part completed project
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 59 Views · 12 Likes
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hi there
That model looks remarkably like a Vic Smeed design of a Customs Launch - which was a free plan many moons ago in Model Boats Magazine. There is also a very similar design / model which is slightly larger but I believe it is based on a vac formed hull. Similar style customs launch - give me time to wake up 🙄 and I will look for some photographs and plan references.
The plan was first published in the Model boats mag in Jan 1982 👍
That model looks remarkably like a Vic Smeed design of a Customs Launch - which was a free plan many moons ago in Model Boats Magazine. There is also a very similar design / model which is slightly larger but I believe it is based on a vac formed hull. Similar style customs launch - give me time to wake up 🙄 and I will look for some photographs and plan references.
The plan was first published in the Model boats mag in Jan 1982 👍
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📝 Bluebird K-7 Obsession
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
A Plan for a Jet X powered semi scale Bluebird is available from a Company located in Canada who may be producing the plans.
Next picture Don Walkenshaw's gas turbine driven Bluebird K7 - early version.
john
A Plan for a Jet X powered semi scale Bluebird is available from a Company located in Canada who may be producing the plans.
Next picture Don Walkenshaw's gas turbine driven Bluebird K7 - early version.
john
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📝 Bluebird K-7 Obsession
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi there
I think the maximum speed I would be able to achieve with this model of Bluebird would be possibly 45 to 50 mph that would really be stretching it.
Long story - but I don't fancy the idea of taking more yachts out at the lakeside 😊😮
For the novice; the basic principal of a ducted fan is a propeller in a tube - what volume of air & speed is pushed out at the back end. It is not increased in volume - it is just whatever goes in the front - comes out at the back - at the same volume and speed.
Unlike a jet engine - where the air is expanded in a gas form and accelerated at a greater speed.
Therefore, with a ducted fan, your critical factor is the power to weight ratio, so, the all up weight of my model Bluebird is just over 4 llb and that is with the batteries in the model. The thrust of the ducted fan is roughly about 6 - 7 llb. Giving a ratio of about 1.75 llb.
To get more speed, I would somehow have to drop the weight of the vessel, or, increase the thrust.
If you want a good headache, my next model which I am in the process of testing further is John Cobb's Crusader (1955). This has 100 mm ducted fan and is a running on 44 volts. It refuses to plane properly - when she starts off she creates such a spray it sucks a lot of water into the fan and therefore flooding the model.
I have sent off for lighter batteries and I am thinking about repositioning the centre of gravity & all sorts. Later this year I think for retesting.
John
I think the maximum speed I would be able to achieve with this model of Bluebird would be possibly 45 to 50 mph that would really be stretching it.
Long story - but I don't fancy the idea of taking more yachts out at the lakeside 😊😮
For the novice; the basic principal of a ducted fan is a propeller in a tube - what volume of air & speed is pushed out at the back end. It is not increased in volume - it is just whatever goes in the front - comes out at the back - at the same volume and speed.
Unlike a jet engine - where the air is expanded in a gas form and accelerated at a greater speed.
Therefore, with a ducted fan, your critical factor is the power to weight ratio, so, the all up weight of my model Bluebird is just over 4 llb and that is with the batteries in the model. The thrust of the ducted fan is roughly about 6 - 7 llb. Giving a ratio of about 1.75 llb.
To get more speed, I would somehow have to drop the weight of the vessel, or, increase the thrust.
If you want a good headache, my next model which I am in the process of testing further is John Cobb's Crusader (1955). This has 100 mm ducted fan and is a running on 44 volts. It refuses to plane properly - when she starts off she creates such a spray it sucks a lot of water into the fan and therefore flooding the model.
I have sent off for lighter batteries and I am thinking about repositioning the centre of gravity & all sorts. Later this year I think for retesting.
John
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📝 Bluebird K-7 Obsession
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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My model is 1/8 scale - and the ducted fan is 80 diameter - with 12 blades. Running on 2 voltages for testing - the first was run on 14.8 batteries just to find out the characteristics of how she handled. Then when I was happy and ironed out a few faults, I upgraded the batteries up to 11.1 giving a total voltage of 22.2 volts. Now all I need is a BIGGER lake, to allow the model to achieve its top speed. As I was having to throttle it down 1/3 of the way down the length of the lake cos she ran on 'no power' for a good distance.
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📝 Bluebird K-7 Obsession
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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new vid of Bluebird K7
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📝 Bluebird K-7 Obsession
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
a ducted fan driven Bluebird is not a simple matter - I myself spent a good few years doing a lot of research -collecting plans and data from all over the place. Any person who is confessing to have built or is building an exact scale of Bluebird K7 to be driven by a ducted fan - I myself would be very sceptical. The reason I come up with this statement is I have done it myself and built the model. My model is pretty successful. My model is driven by a 80 mm ducted fan and I think it was 2 x 6S lipo batteries. The model is made basically from very lite ply and balsa wood. I had to think of a way to increase the flow of air into the ducted fan as on the model the canopy (if it is solid) will restrict airflow (only on a ducted fan and not gas turbine).
The way I worked around it, the canopy is of a mesh, and under the canopy is a hollow tube which runs to the fan and either side of the canopy there is an opening in the deck to allow more airflow.
The model I built achieved approximately 37 - 38 mph. However, the size of the lake restricted me from keeping the power on. I do have a couple of photographs which I will put on.
Also, if you go onto my 'harbour' have a look at the short video and couple of pictures of the build which I put on Mayhem.
There are a set of plans for her which are available on the web also, you may be able to obtain a set of plans from the Bluebird Society which is in the Lake District (Ruskin museum).
john
a ducted fan driven Bluebird is not a simple matter - I myself spent a good few years doing a lot of research -collecting plans and data from all over the place. Any person who is confessing to have built or is building an exact scale of Bluebird K7 to be driven by a ducted fan - I myself would be very sceptical. The reason I come up with this statement is I have done it myself and built the model. My model is pretty successful. My model is driven by a 80 mm ducted fan and I think it was 2 x 6S lipo batteries. The model is made basically from very lite ply and balsa wood. I had to think of a way to increase the flow of air into the ducted fan as on the model the canopy (if it is solid) will restrict airflow (only on a ducted fan and not gas turbine).
The way I worked around it, the canopy is of a mesh, and under the canopy is a hollow tube which runs to the fan and either side of the canopy there is an opening in the deck to allow more airflow.
The model I built achieved approximately 37 - 38 mph. However, the size of the lake restricted me from keeping the power on. I do have a couple of photographs which I will put on.
Also, if you go onto my 'harbour' have a look at the short video and couple of pictures of the build which I put on Mayhem.
There are a set of plans for her which are available on the web also, you may be able to obtain a set of plans from the Bluebird Society which is in the Lake District (Ruskin museum).
john
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💬 Re: Starting to plank the hull
7 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
One thing about diagonal planking - you do seem to be going on forevermore putting planks on - getting no where and all of a sudden it is done.
I myself have diagonally planked several hulls; even the one you are building the RTTL hull - and I tend to add stringers from bow to stern - maybe 2 on the side and 2 on the top - of each side of the hull. This serves 3 purposes; 1 it aides a bit more strength to the hull, 2 you can follow the true shape of the hull as in concave of the bottom and on the sides, 3 it gives you an extra place to clamp your planks to.
If you have a look at my photographs in my profile, you will see the RTTL model which I built there.
Are you making it twin prop? or, some of these vessels were triple props if you want a bit more excitement.
Good luck with the planking and the model. It is a lovely model to sail.
John
One thing about diagonal planking - you do seem to be going on forevermore putting planks on - getting no where and all of a sudden it is done.
I myself have diagonally planked several hulls; even the one you are building the RTTL hull - and I tend to add stringers from bow to stern - maybe 2 on the side and 2 on the top - of each side of the hull. This serves 3 purposes; 1 it aides a bit more strength to the hull, 2 you can follow the true shape of the hull as in concave of the bottom and on the sides, 3 it gives you an extra place to clamp your planks to.
If you have a look at my photographs in my profile, you will see the RTTL model which I built there.
Are you making it twin prop? or, some of these vessels were triple props if you want a bit more excitement.
Good luck with the planking and the model. It is a lovely model to sail.
John
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📝 Kitshack Vosper 28” RTTL
1 year ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
Nice project to start on. I am unsure if you are aware of the history of these boats. I found the more you delve into the history of them, the more complicated (shall we say) they become. Some of the boats began life as a Hants and Dorset hull with 3 motors and shafts and ended up having only 2 motors as they were converted. One I do know was fitted with an Oerlikon gun on the rear cabin. They were a bit notorious for splitting the hull open, as they were prone to diving off waves; this was due to the fact that both props and shafts turned in the same direction giving the hull a corkscrew movement. Some hulls were fitted with a wedge shape right at the rear to try and help with this effect. I built a model of the RTTL a good while ago; and I believe it is in my profile dockyard. Here are a couple of photographs which I have managed to find on my computer. I know my build of my model was originally on Mayhem - but after a few crashes of Mayhem a good few pictures have gone missing of the build.
There is also one here of the towing target which the RTTL used to tow.
John
Nice project to start on. I am unsure if you are aware of the history of these boats. I found the more you delve into the history of them, the more complicated (shall we say) they become. Some of the boats began life as a Hants and Dorset hull with 3 motors and shafts and ended up having only 2 motors as they were converted. One I do know was fitted with an Oerlikon gun on the rear cabin. They were a bit notorious for splitting the hull open, as they were prone to diving off waves; this was due to the fact that both props and shafts turned in the same direction giving the hull a corkscrew movement. Some hulls were fitted with a wedge shape right at the rear to try and help with this effect. I built a model of the RTTL a good while ago; and I believe it is in my profile dockyard. Here are a couple of photographs which I have managed to find on my computer. I know my build of my model was originally on Mayhem - but after a few crashes of Mayhem a good few pictures have gone missing of the build.
There is also one here of the towing target which the RTTL used to tow.
John
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📝 Operating Cranes
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi there
This is the Crane from my Seaforth Clansman which I built from plans from Model Boats magazine. I also acquired some plans to go with them - so I could have more detail on my model.
The difference between the model which I built and the plans - is - I added a helicopter deck which the life size ship had when she was on loan to the Royal Navy.
The crane on my model operates on 3 continuous rotating servos - 2 miniature ones which actually fit inside the crane - 1 for operating the jib - the other for the crane hook. The 3rd one which is a full sized rotating servo, has been geared down - and this operates the slowing of the crane.
The whole lot was originally going to be controlled via computer but ended up as being manually controlled on my 8 channel Transmitter.
I have no video of the crane being operated on the water, as, to be honest with you - it is a bit of a handful. Still 1 or 2 teething problems to sort out - such as when you turn the transmitter & receiver on - one of the mini servos kicks in and begins to run.
Also, it is a bit nerve wracking when the model is on the water and you slew the crane - the model doesn't have list - even without any weight on the hook 😆 .
At a later date I will have to put some form of counter balance underneath the deck - to work in tandem with the crane.
John
This is the Crane from my Seaforth Clansman which I built from plans from Model Boats magazine. I also acquired some plans to go with them - so I could have more detail on my model.
The difference between the model which I built and the plans - is - I added a helicopter deck which the life size ship had when she was on loan to the Royal Navy.
The crane on my model operates on 3 continuous rotating servos - 2 miniature ones which actually fit inside the crane - 1 for operating the jib - the other for the crane hook. The 3rd one which is a full sized rotating servo, has been geared down - and this operates the slowing of the crane.
The whole lot was originally going to be controlled via computer but ended up as being manually controlled on my 8 channel Transmitter.
I have no video of the crane being operated on the water, as, to be honest with you - it is a bit of a handful. Still 1 or 2 teething problems to sort out - such as when you turn the transmitter & receiver on - one of the mini servos kicks in and begins to run.
Also, it is a bit nerve wracking when the model is on the water and you slew the crane - the model doesn't have list - even without any weight on the hook 😆 .
At a later date I will have to put some form of counter balance underneath the deck - to work in tandem with the crane.
John
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📝 Servos going crazy
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 65 Views · 4 Likes
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hi there
I think the problem here is to do with the pulse width - being slightly different - if you are using a servo, let us say from a well known auction site which comes from China - these servos are a bit notorious for glitching because the electronics tend to look for the centre 'off' position, and this causes them to oscillate back and forwards slightly as they are looking for this signal. I have a Hi Tec sail winch servo which does exactly the same thing when I use it on Futaba set-up transmitter and receiver. However, when I use it on the Hi Tec transmitter and receiver it works perfectly. If you have another spare transmitter and receiver of a different make to the one you are using, it may be worth giving it a try to see what happens to see if the servo still glitches.
John
I think the problem here is to do with the pulse width - being slightly different - if you are using a servo, let us say from a well known auction site which comes from China - these servos are a bit notorious for glitching because the electronics tend to look for the centre 'off' position, and this causes them to oscillate back and forwards slightly as they are looking for this signal. I have a Hi Tec sail winch servo which does exactly the same thing when I use it on Futaba set-up transmitter and receiver. However, when I use it on the Hi Tec transmitter and receiver it works perfectly. If you have another spare transmitter and receiver of a different make to the one you are using, it may be worth giving it a try to see what happens to see if the servo still glitches.
John
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📝 Hey Gang, what boat is this?
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 27 Views · 6 Likes
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hi there
Yes, Tyne Pilot Boat.
If you send an email off to the Tyne Pilot guys at South Shields at Port of Tyne Authority - they will no doubt be very helpful, as they have been to me in the past with information on boats. No doubt they will be able to supply you with a good bit of information if you ask nicely - you may even obtain some drawings.
Here is a link
Yes, Tyne Pilot Boat.
If you send an email off to the Tyne Pilot guys at South Shields at Port of Tyne Authority - they will no doubt be very helpful, as they have been to me in the past with information on boats. No doubt they will be able to supply you with a good bit of information if you ask nicely - you may even obtain some drawings.
Here is a link
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📝 Vic Smeed RTTL Vosper
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 52 Views · 5 Likes
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hi there
The actual photograph that Sarik used is actually of the Vosper I built. It is built plank on frame and somewhere on Mayhem Forum - there is a build of my model which I put on there. If you can source the magazine The Model Maker 1958. It was a Christmas special. The plans were inside that mag. I believe it ran over 2 months - the original build by Vic Smeed
The actual photograph that Sarik used is actually of the Vosper I built. It is built plank on frame and somewhere on Mayhem Forum - there is a build of my model which I put on there. If you can source the magazine The Model Maker 1958. It was a Christmas special. The plans were inside that mag. I believe it ran over 2 months - the original build by Vic Smeed
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📝 Sealing Balsa & Ply
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 63 Views · 5 Likes
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hi there
I am in the camp of the cellulose sand n sealer along with the acrylic sealer as well. In some extreme cases, I will go in with an epoxy resin. Thinned down, to allow it to soak into the balsa wood.
I have found that the cellulose gives a harder finish and is more 'shall we say' 'ding' resistant than the acrylic. The acrylic does tend to be a bit softer - as you can sometimes (if you stick your nail into it) it will leave a mark.
The epoxy can give you a really hard finish The only thing I can think of on the minus side - is to be careful of when you purchase your sand n sealer, there are brands on the market which are used in wood working, as in building furniture and soforth. This has a slight wax in it.
John
I am in the camp of the cellulose sand n sealer along with the acrylic sealer as well. In some extreme cases, I will go in with an epoxy resin. Thinned down, to allow it to soak into the balsa wood.
I have found that the cellulose gives a harder finish and is more 'shall we say' 'ding' resistant than the acrylic. The acrylic does tend to be a bit softer - as you can sometimes (if you stick your nail into it) it will leave a mark.
The epoxy can give you a really hard finish The only thing I can think of on the minus side - is to be careful of when you purchase your sand n sealer, there are brands on the market which are used in wood working, as in building furniture and soforth. This has a slight wax in it.
John
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📝 ANATOMY OF THE ESC FOR BRUSHED MOTORS. HOW THEY ARE MADE AND HOW THEY WORK IN THE DETAIL OF THEIR EL
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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📝 ANATOMY OF THE ESC FOR BRUSHED MOTORS. HOW THEY ARE MADE AND HOW THEY WORK IN THE DETAIL OF THEIR EL
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 43 Views · 1 Like
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hi there
As usual, when you are looking for one thing - you find another - I was looking for the Maplins circuit diagram, I came across two 'old' Electronize circuit diagrams. These can hold up to 15 amp.
Somewhere, I do have a circuit diagram for a PIC chip speed controller but you do have to have the ability to programme the PIC chip. There are bound to be codes for the PIC chip on line though.
So, I will keep on looking for the other circuit diagrams.
I am easily distracted and find something interesting and my mind wanders off....
see what I mean about my mind wandering off. I will have to find the components pages now to see what the value are of the components..... oh well busy is the happiest way to be as the old song also says - they are coming to take me away haha!
😀🙄🙄
John
As usual, when you are looking for one thing - you find another - I was looking for the Maplins circuit diagram, I came across two 'old' Electronize circuit diagrams. These can hold up to 15 amp.
Somewhere, I do have a circuit diagram for a PIC chip speed controller but you do have to have the ability to programme the PIC chip. There are bound to be codes for the PIC chip on line though.
So, I will keep on looking for the other circuit diagrams.
I am easily distracted and find something interesting and my mind wanders off....
see what I mean about my mind wandering off. I will have to find the components pages now to see what the value are of the components..... oh well busy is the happiest way to be as the old song also says - they are coming to take me away haha!
😀🙄🙄
John
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📝 ANATOMY OF THE ESC FOR BRUSHED MOTORS. HOW THEY ARE MADE AND HOW THEY WORK IN THE DETAIL OF THEIR EL
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 53 Views · 3 Likes
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well hello there, as you can gather, the majority of modern day speed controllers rely on pic chips at their heart. These basically replaced the Phillips ZN409CE chip, this chip used to be the main stay of all 'old' pulse speed controllers.
Now, if you can get hold of a book - Electronic Projects for Model Boats by Ken Ginn - there are several diagrams in there for speed controllers - which use ZN409E chips. These chips can be found on various auction sites and if you google it they come up on Google some time. The last one I tried to obtain though - was priced at £30 for one chip!
I do have, somewhere, a circuit diagram for the 'old' Maplins' speed controller. This also uses a ZN409E chip. This speed controller was only rated at 5 amp.
John
Now, if you can get hold of a book - Electronic Projects for Model Boats by Ken Ginn - there are several diagrams in there for speed controllers - which use ZN409E chips. These chips can be found on various auction sites and if you google it they come up on Google some time. The last one I tried to obtain though - was priced at £30 for one chip!
I do have, somewhere, a circuit diagram for the 'old' Maplins' speed controller. This also uses a ZN409E chip. This speed controller was only rated at 5 amp.
John
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📝 Bidirectional motor speed reduction circuit
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there Lew
I have a feeling, my friend, you may have to bite the bullet with this one and alter the gearing to slow the crane down. I have been reading back through the posting and it does look like an 'all in one' circuit board that you are working with - very difficult to alter / tamper with.
I suppose though the other alternative would be - to gut the old electronics out and replace with say a Futaba receiver. Then, you would obviously have to have speed controller for the tracks on one channel (forward and back of the actual movement of the crane) - then you would require the other 3 channels for the operation of the crane itself and they could be done with small, cheap, speed controllers.
I have done this myself before on a model - but - for the winches on the crane, I used continuous rotating servos with drums attached for the cables & etc.
The speed controllers I bought came from a local Company - and I will try and find the link - because it is a long time since I made this model. I can put the link on for you if I find it.
John
I have a feeling, my friend, you may have to bite the bullet with this one and alter the gearing to slow the crane down. I have been reading back through the posting and it does look like an 'all in one' circuit board that you are working with - very difficult to alter / tamper with.
I suppose though the other alternative would be - to gut the old electronics out and replace with say a Futaba receiver. Then, you would obviously have to have speed controller for the tracks on one channel (forward and back of the actual movement of the crane) - then you would require the other 3 channels for the operation of the crane itself and they could be done with small, cheap, speed controllers.
I have done this myself before on a model - but - for the winches on the crane, I used continuous rotating servos with drums attached for the cables & etc.
The speed controllers I bought came from a local Company - and I will try and find the link - because it is a long time since I made this model. I can put the link on for you if I find it.
John
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📝 Bidirectional motor speed reduction circuit
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
If you are handy with a soldering iron, I suppose that you could construct this little voltage regulator. This would vary the speed of your motor.
The only downside is that you only have 5 volts input which is on the low side for a lot of I.C control units.
John
If you are handy with a soldering iron, I suppose that you could construct this little voltage regulator. This would vary the speed of your motor.
The only downside is that you only have 5 volts input which is on the low side for a lot of I.C control units.
John
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