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    JOHN
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    Member No.#626
    RegisteredπŸ“…30th Apr 2009
    Last OnlineπŸ“…24th Oct 2021
    CityπŸ“South shields
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
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    HMS AJAX
    1/96 HMS ajax This model was built approx 20 year ago from Norman Ough plans also other various sources were used. It is plank on frame construction with revolving gun turrets and torpedo tubes. She is now really due a refit as she is a bit dusty and worn out - you will see her in her prime - alongside HMS Nelson which was built at 1:96 scale by a friend of mine Brian Chambers. The next 2 pics you can see her in the garage alongside HMS Exeter. She is actually depicted when she came from USA after a major refit when her new secondary armour and upgraded radar were fitted. Note the catapult and spotter plane were removed on that refit.
    MTB from a Model Boats plan
    Here are a couple of pics of my MTB which I built from a freebie plan which was in Model Boats - the plans were by Glyn Guest. We had it on the lake last Sunday for a run around - she has a 540 motor fitted; an Mtroniks 15 amp speed controller; and can run for a good while on 7.2 300 mAh batteries
    Virgin Atlantic Challenger
    Hi there, this is the only pic I have of Virgin Atlantic Challenger on the water, which I built from 'free' plans in a model boats magazine - built all of lite ply - powered by 7.4 NiCad batteries - and there is a Race 5
    (Naval Ship) HMS PENELOPE
    This model was made by me from Glyn Guest plans - I made this a good few year ago. Of all the scale models I have built I like this one. When you take a scale model to the lake you have to be so careful not to damage anything - with this one you just put the model in the back of the car and throw it in the water - well not literally (you have to drive down to the lake first)πŸ€“πŸ€“ - many hours of enjoyment. (Motor: MFA) (5/10)
    (Working Vessel) MV DUBURG
    scratch built model from Jim Pottinger plans - I made this several years ago - plank on frame and the hull is double planked. 1:96 scale/ (Motor: MFA 550) (5/10)
    (Other) RTTL 2751
    model was originally built by myself using a mixture of Vic Smeed plans and photographs/plans from a gent called Christian - my model is double-planked. Outer planking is scale sized; props both drive the same way as in the original boats. (ESC: ACTion) (8/10)
    Recent Posts
    πŸ’¬ Re: HMs aJAX
    3 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there

    You may already know about this site, but, this is the Dock Museum Website - this is where HMS Ajax was built and, although, the photographs are a bit small they may still help you out. Be warned, you can spend many an hour on this website - just looking at images :-) .

    http://collections.dockmuseum.org.uk/mwebcgi/mweb?request=re...

    John
    http://collections.dockmuseum.org.uk/mwebcgi/mweb?request=record;id=15399;type=101
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Scratch built, Working Steam powered Drifter trawler LT100, to 1:24th scale.
    3 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there,
    I know this may be a bit late in the day, however, I have really enjoyed reading through this build. I have a question, Stephen, have you read the book ' From Tree to Sea by Ted Frost' its the building of a steam drifter.

    It is an extremely interesting read on how old fashioned boat building was done and there are loads of sketches & etc.
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    πŸ’¬ Re: C.C.G.S. Norman Mcleod Rogers Icebreaker
    3 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Don't give up Mr Scotsman - πŸ€— - the Castle Class hull was started 2 years ago - and I have just started to finish off the hull now - because I commenced the build of an Island Class vessel, HMS Lindisfarne, which I am more than half way through now.

    Never in the field of human conflict have I ever done more than one hull at a time - but here I am now with 2 on the go - contemplating a third one 😁 so don't shelve it - but sit back for a while and the golden rule will always be nothing is ever perfect, so, don't try and make it perfect. Your frames may be slightly out and you compensate for the errors when you come to plank and fill with car body filler to correct the errors. Nobody will ever know once you have slapped some paint on it.

    john
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Items Ordered
    4 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi Fred

    Have you given much thought of how you are going to construct the hull? I know the original was bread and butter balsa. Then, I believe, they came up with the vac-formed hull.

    When I built mine I used the templates for the shape of the hull that is given in the plan to construct frames. I planked the hull.

    Lovely little model they are to sail. I have sailed mine in many a steering competition. The only thing I had to do was make the rudder larger - as - it didnt respond to helm in reverse and it just decided which way it was going to go by itself.😁

    John
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    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there Phil

    In theory, it would really be better if you could go back to the bare wood. That gives the Z-Epoxy a good surface to adhere to without any interference from shall we say flaky or loose paint. Also, the Z-Epoxy would penetrate the first layer of plywood skin and toughen it right up and it would possibly amend any soft areas in the plywood. If you leave paint on, you are relying on the paint having a good bond with the plywood and then relying on the Epoxy not having a reaction to the paint as well.

    So best is to try and remove as much of the paint as possible.

    I have a feeling this will be a sort of old lead based paint. So, you could use some chemical paint stripper but be very careful - obviously painting a small test area of the hull at first and - this will enable you to see if this works. If this does work, obviously strip the hull back and then rinse the hull off with warm, clean water. Dry the hull, rub it down with a light sand paper and then apply the Z-Epoxy.

    There are plenty videos on You Tube showing you how to use Z-Epoxy if you are unsure. But, you can always ask here on the Forum and we can all chip in with our ideas to help you along.
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    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    I do enjoy a bit of detective work - I believe that this hull was constructed from the Vic Smeed plans. What gave it away was that there was a number written on one of the frames which corresponds with a number on the plan for that correct frame. Also, there are 2 support blocks at the stern for the rudder posts which are also drawn in on this plan.

    I thought that this was a Veron kit - but - now after further investigation it strongly suggests that it was from the free plan which I used in conjunction with other material to build my model.

    See attached - so therefore if we look back at the leak problem I am now wondering if there is a crack along the keel which is hidden by the paint. My method would be to sand the paint all the way back (removing all the paint off the bottom of the hull) and once the hull is nice and clean and wiped down with acetone & give it a coating of Zap Z-poxy finishing resin. No matting is required.

    John
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    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi there Phil,

    Thank you for the comments on the boat. The hull bottom paint was Humbrol Brick Red number 70 with a coating of satin varnish over the top of it.

    The white was Humbrol 130.

    The fittings I made them basically myself - however, I know Battlecraft do a lot 1/24 scale fittings. A lot of them can be adapted for this model.

    It isn't too bad to drill into the hull - the way I normally do it - is to cover the hull with a scrap of masking tape, mark off the positions of the holes on the masking tape and then with a small pin drill, drill through first and then gradually open the holes up with slightly bigger drills and a small round file to finish off.

    If you draw on the position of the portholes first on the masking tape that gives you the advantage of keeping them in line. Old golden rule MEASURE TWICE BEFORE YOU CUT OR DRILL 😊 and I still get it wrong :-)

    Here is a link to various size portholes.

    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?pag...

    John
    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=brass+port+holes&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21
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    πŸ“ 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there

    I know everyone is saying and suggesting leaving the electrics as they are. I would agree, however, it is 'old' technology. There is a Bobs board speed controller which is ancient technology and whilst it is still good for very small amperages and I have one or two models myself with them in - but - you are running 12 volts. I think, personally, you are going to be verging on the limits of the board for amperage. Also, the weight of 8 batteries is going to be some weight, I mean if you are going to replace them with the old Eveready batteries or similar it is going to cost you a small fortune. The rechargable ones are only 1.2 volts per cell - not the old 1.5's. So, you are going to have a drop in voltage which will therefore result in loss of speed.

    So to go with your original idea of changing the electrics to a modern day version may pay dividends. As well, as has already been suggested it sounds as though your prop tube has dried out - as previous posts have said this needs to be addressed with suitable lubricant.

    Okay, for your white hull I believe your original RTTL hulls were painted gloss white for the overseas versions - but - after time salt air and etc., would flatten the gloss off to make it look like a semi-gloss or matt. I painted mine with Humbrol matt white. Here is a photograph of the one that I built.
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    πŸ“ Fleet Air Arm Museum Yeovilton.
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Fairey Delta 2, πŸ‘ the blue job, not a star fighter widow maker

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairey_Delta_2

    john
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairey_Delta_2
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ‘€ 24 Views
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    πŸ“ WW 2 RN figures cothing colors
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there, if you have a look at the 1/35 scale crew members for the MTB made by Italia - on the box it gives an indication of the colours to be used for the men. This may be of some help for you.

    https://www.cyber-hobby.com/products/1-35-vosper-mtb-74-with...

    John
    https://www.cyber-hobby.com/products/1-35-vosper-mtb-74-with-crew
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ’¬ Re: VINTAGE RUNABOUT -NEW WINTER PROJECT?
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi there

    just been looking through an 'old' Plans Handbook - it's that old its falling apart :-) and I came across plans for a run about MM480 and this is the bumph that goes with it :

    'an 18 inch sporty speedboat based on a Chris-Craft design' a 6 inch beam idea for towing a small scale water skier. It's just large enough for a miniature radio control.

    Ply construction and it has two stars = easy construction' .

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Frame problems
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there Scots Martin

    Ok then, I think your problem is - that you are getting your lines mixed up here.

    Here is a suggestion for ya, if you are starting again, with your frames. Begin first of all by drawing a line roughly 3/4 inch above frame 10 at the bow. This is going to represent your building board.

    Now, take all the measurements from your waterline (and no other line). So, if you are measuring say the depth of the keel on say frame 7; measure down on the side profile from the waterline down to the base of the keel. See where that corresponds on your line plan. That is where that frame should end.

    Draw in from deck level up to your building board line; your supports. To check that, measure from your waterline on your frame plans up to the line drawn that represents your building board.

    Do this with every frame.

    I would strongly recommend that you trace each frame and check that tracing against your body plan and also your side profile plan. Also, draw one frame per sheet - so therefore, you can lay the tracing paper sheets on top of one another to see that the frames are corresponding with one another.

    Try not to overthink the job - just go for it :-)

    Hope this helps - and good luck.

    John
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    πŸ“ Fleet Air Arm Museum Yeovilton.
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi there

    I think the possibility of one of the main reasons that pilots were trained in US Airplanes in America was that we were introducing escort carriers into the convoy system, these were a lot shorter i.e. basically they were a merchant ship which had no superstructure, just a landing platform deck. A lot of American planes could land and take off from a short deck - such as the Corsair - if we look at the British Aircraft Carrier such as HMS Ark Royal - she carried, not only, The Fairey Swordfish and the Blackburn Skuas - this was in 1939 - 1940 which did require a longer deck for takeoff and landing.

    Just one possibility of why the pilots were trained in America to handle the American planes.

    John
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    πŸ“ Information wanted
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there, just wondering if it is an 'old' Kingston Mouldings hull that the model may be based on?

    I am unsure whether Robert Whitmarsh (Kingston Mouldings) are still active - but I may be wrong???

    Also, have a look at this: plan of the Navena

    https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/magm2022-navena-plan/
    John
    https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/magm2022-navena-plan/
    πŸ”—
    https://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/KMMOTORTRAWL.htm
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ“ Information wanted
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there Martin

    I have been through the 1986 Plans Handbook and through several drawings from the Model Shipwright magazines and I have gut feeling that this particular model is a 'made up' one. The reason being, if you have a look at the bridge, you will notice that the sides of the bridge are flat/square. This in a modern day trawler would be correct, but, this particular trawler looks to be from the 'Cod war era' round about the 60s/70s. Last of the large trawlers and the shape of the bridge just doesn't ring true. I may be a mile off the mark; but just a thought. The nearest one to that particular fishing vessel that you mention would be either 'Portia' or 'Gleaner'/ there is a 3rd possibility though and that is the ' oh when I find it I will tell ya ' :-)

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Bare bones photo shoot
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Building boards generally, I feel, should be used on certain constructions of models. If we look at Companies such as Billings, the building techniques are generally well thought out and they rely on, shall we say, on the materials being used i.e. no warps or distortion in the plywood - to keep things true.

    If you look at this particular build, you will see that it is the actual deck and the keel of the model which is creating a stable building platform. The thing is, when you actually come to plank this model, you are relying on some way of holding it while you are planking it to prevent it slipping/moving all over the place.

    Billings, I believe, actually manufacture a jig for holding models, at a cost of course.

    The reason I particularly endorse using a building board is, it not only holds the model securely and gives you a good working area - as previously said it prevents any distortion.

    When I built HMS Warspite - years ago - it was at 1:96 scale, giving a length of something like 80 inches and I built this naively and without a building board / any forms of keeping it true. It twisted! I thought I would be able to pull the twists out when I added the anti torpedo blisters either side of the hull. Needless to say, it didn't work, the hull became a glorified plant pot - from then on I always use a building board - even when I built HMS Exeter at 1:96 scale and especially when I built the modern version of HMS York also at 1:96 scale.

    The other good reason for using a building board, is sometimes we build hulls, where the framework is rather flimsy, until we get the hull planking skin on. When I built the Seaforth, she has a large moonpool in the hull - this actually cuts through the keel of the model, so we need to support this area whilst building.

    Therefore, the building board use really depends on the type of model and also the construction method.

    I have added a couple of photographs showing the moonpool - you will see one is of the hull upside down and where I am opening up the hole for the moonpool, after planking.

    The other photograph shows the hatch open on top of the superstructure and this is the other open end of the moonpool so, literally, the moonpool goes right the way through the hull and even through the superstructure.

    Guess what, I like using a building board 😊

    John
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    πŸ“ H.M.S. SCIMITAR FTB
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there

    When you consider what some folk achieve when they can install all the electronics etc., in an Airfix model of the Air Sea Rescue Launch and MTB at 1:72 scale, I shouldn't think there would be much of a problem. I would think the height of the superstructure wouldn't create any unstability so therefore I dont think there would be any need to add a keel on or anything like that.

    Look forward to seeing the build.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Cheeks & Stringers
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi my mate

    First of all, don't try and over think the job that you are doing. If it were me building this hull; now we have the frames set up on the board and you have the last frame in at the bow; you need to make yourself a flat sanding block. Something along the lines of 2 inches wide 1 inch thick and say, 10 inches long - rounded at one end. Now, you need some double sided tape - I normally use the tape carpet fitters use as its pretty strong stuff. Get yourself some coarse sand paper and stick it onto the block.

    Now, with the block, what you need to do is fair in and even all the frames up. This is where you will find if there are frames that are a bit big, little too small or whatever. Work from the centre frame out to the bow, sanding at 45 degrees to the keel. Same at the stern - work from the middle to the stern. Do not put too much pressure on at the moment as the frames will not support it properly and will begin to vibrate - just gently do it.

    If one or two frames are say 1/16 of an inch out - if its proud sand them - to size - if shallow (small) pack them.

    Next thing to do is add pieces along the centre of the keel either side - normally I would use 5 x 5 mm obechi or birch - glued either side. The reason for this is it gives you extra landing to glue on to when you start planking.

    So, we have completed that

    Now....fit the deck stringers. Now... this is just my way of doing it. Your hull is basically a 3 tier hull, you have a raised aft deck a lower cargo deck and a raised bow.

    Now, the lower cargo deck basically runs from frames 6,7 and just passed 8 and actually just passed frame 5. So, you need to add a stringer both sides of the hull at this level. This stringer I would run the full length of the hull - so - from frame 0 all the way to frame 10.

    Then do the raised rear deck - that stringer I would run from frame 1 to just passed frame 5 - the bow deck I would run the stringer from just before frame 2 to frame 10. Once these have been glued in place then go back and sand & true up all your frames. This is so that actually the frames now will taper to the bow and stern - you should have no sharp edges for the planks to lie on. You will also find that the bow at the keel will be sanded to a point and also frame 10 will be well sanded in and be half the size it is at the moment.

    It is certainly up to yourself though how you start planking your hull.

    Normally when I begin planking the hull I will start 3 or 4 planks from the centre of the keel towards the deck. Whilst they are drying I turn the hull round and plank 3 or 4 planks on the opposite side. This is so that, as the glue and planks dry out we don't get any twisting or distortion. Then I would plank from the deck 3 or 4 planks up over towards the keel either side. I will then alternate from then on.

    Best of luck.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Almost there
    5 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi ya Martin

    The plan is from Marine Modelling International Plan - by Jim Pottinger the plan lettering/number is MAR3406.

    I made a mistake I was looking along the numbers along the buttock lines on the plan. They are also numbered 1, 2, 3 & so on. What I should have said block in from the stern, frame 0 to 1/2 frame. But, plywood cheek pieces I would put in to replace the deck stringer at the stern - I would go from the stern way passed frame 1 by about an inch heading towards the bow.

    I got the plans a good while ago as I was also considering building this model.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Almost there
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Martin555 this is what happens when you are too busy talking and not watching your model 😊 collision with bank - I was busy gossiping to me mate Riggers and the model was away off in the distance, trying to dig itself into a concrete bank at full speed.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Almost there
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there,

    the idea of the cheek pieces placed in the bow and the stern is to help take out the extreme strain of the deck stringer as it turns into the bow post and stern post. On some models, if you try and achieve this bend without soaking or steaming and a lot of faff on, the stringer tends to snap. Looking at the plan, to plank right up to the bow, it wouldn't be a problem. Looking at how you have cut & made the keel at the bow, I wouldn't be too bothered about damage to the bow if you run it into the side of the lake πŸ˜€ On the stern, you have a lot of bends and radius' so I would advise blocking in with balsa wood from about frame 2. Once you have completed planking and finishing & you have the hull off the building board, you can then carve out an area to give you more access/space at the stern. I did this on the paddle tug; just a thought.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Motorlife boat 47
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there I dont mean to be critical = but = having a look at your rudder linkage, I think you may be straining the gearing in your servo. I dont know how acquainted you may be with the mathematics of leverages and rotation. The amount of effort you are asking the servo mechanism to move your tiller arms is greater than the leverage and the linkage between the 2 rudders. Best way to describe this is to think of riding a pushbike/cycle as your hands are on the handlebars, the further away your hands are from the centre point of your front wheel pivot, the easier it is to turn the handlebars. Now, imagine, taking one hand off the handlebar and moving the remaining hand very close to the centre point of your handlebar and then trying to turn the handlebars/front wheel - the effort you would have to put in is immense. The same thing is happening with your rudder/servo set up-. I hope you dont mind, but, I have put on a few photographs of the linkage I use and it is called the closed loop system. This is a lot easier on the servo. Also, less wear. Dont forget the more work the servo has to do the more strain it puts on the gearing inside the servo and also, the more power you will drain from your supply battery. Just a thought not meaning to criticise but just trying to add my help - or I may be telling my granny how to suck eggs.

    john
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Keel fitted
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Seaspray,

    According to the plan I have - the prop tubes are parallel to the keel - and not at an angle - make sure you have enough room. Also, in the past a few of Jim Pottinger plans which I have used - the frame drawings aren't 100% - so be careful. I am sure this is something to do with distortion when the original plans go to the Printers. What I have done previously is built up the edge of the frame using 1.5 mm x 5.00 mm Obechi & before I attach the strip to the edge of the frame I soak the strip in boiling water - making it easy to bend and follow the shape of the frame.

    So, as long as your deck edge looks straight and right - look for the low frames which are out of line and build them up.

    I have just been going through some files to see if I can find a photograph of where I needed to alter the frames - and the only one I can find at the current time is from MV Duburg which is also from James Pottinger plans. The worst frame alteration I needed to do was when I did the little tug, MSC Archer. It was a free plan that one from Model Boats - I had to do a lot of alterations to the frames. It's not an uncommon thing to have to double check and redraw some frames, especially with modern day technology - it's supposed to be much more accurate on printing but I have had a good few plans with a lot of distortion to them.

    Have a look at this picture - where I am laying the batten over the frames to work out which ones are high and which ones are low - you can just see the gap on the first frame on the picture if you look closely.

    Dont let it get you down either - I have spent many many a day fitting frames and lifting them off the building board - a little tweak here and a tweak there end up taking all the frames off the board - and start again. It's worth it in the end.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Keel fitted
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there
    I think you will find it isnt frame 9 that looks too high but frame 8 that looks a little too low. The lump on the end (I am unsure if you know) is like a solid block which protrudes from the keel on the real ship to help crack the ice.

    Just as a side note are you not going to put the holes in frames 2, 3 and 4 to take the prop tubes? You may find it a bit awkward once you have assembled the frames on the board and also if you have skinned the hull. A lot easier to put oversize holes in the frames to allow you a bit wiggle room for aligning the tubes up.

    john
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    πŸ“ Show us how you move your vessels from vehicle to the launch site
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    I am lucky really - my transport for models is 6 ft tall - strong as an ox and only complains when he has to carry models such as the paddle tug which is really wide. He also lifts the models in and out of the lake for me using 2 slings. Well, that's what sons are for isnt it. He also drives me to the lake and back :-) . I know this isnt the real answer you want but its true for me. :-) .
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Stringer Angles
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hi there

    In the past the deck stringer I normally laminate is from 2 - 3 pieces. If say you are going to use a 5mm square piece of timber for your deck stringers, what I myself would do, is, substitute it with 2 pieces of timber 2.5 mm x 5 mm laminated.

    As for the bend of the deck stringer at the bow and stern; I would make 2 cheek pieces of the correct shape from either the 1st and 2nd rib to the bow and the same at the stern. This eases the bend of the deck stringer.

    John
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    πŸ“ Brass Pins
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi is this what you are looking for πŸ‘

    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?pag...
    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=brass+building+pins+&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21
    πŸ”—
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Frames Scrapped
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    Hi ya, just to throw the cat amongst the pigeons -😁😁 why not add extra stringers around the outside of the hull and diagonally plank it - then you can go and break real ice with it in the Scots lake. The hull will be really strong and you wont have to worry about putting joints in the planking.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Frames Scrapped
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    hoo yee ya tight Scot - last time I called you by your Sunday name me post was tampered with for evidence :-) so.....if you want longer lengths of Obechi try SLEC - they are pretty good - I tend to use Cornwall Model Boats for the hard timber such as Maple and stuff -

    just a thought about your building board would it not be better to have the strengthening battens glued/screwed on roughtly 1 1/2 inches inboard of the edge of the actual chipboard either side. This allows you to use little clamps to hold your support blocks in place while you screw them.

    Also, if you ever build a wider hull on the building board which overlaps the edges of your building board you can screw from underneath into your support blocks - just a thought.

    As far as joining short planks - when I build the Exeter - which is canny long - I had to join many planks and the way I did it; I cut the end of the planks at roughly about 60 degrees and mated the 2 end planks like that and then placed the backing plank on the inside of the join obviously glued in place - I also tend to make the joints in the middle of two frames.

    Couple of pics

    one of the Exeter hull (I dont know if you can make out the joints in the planking and one of the present hull which is on the board) of the support straps on the inside of the planks.

    John
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Frames Scrapped
    6 months ago by JOHN ( Warrant Officer)
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    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Obechi-Strip-1...

    hear you go you old tight scot 😁😁😁😁
    https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Obechi-Strip-1.8x6x550mm-B1032.html#SID=493
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