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📝 Operating Cranes
1 month ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN (
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Hi there
This is the Crane from my Seaforth Clansman which I built from plans from Model Boats magazine. I also acquired some plans to go with them - so I could have more detail on my model.
The difference between the model which I built and the plans - is - I added a helicopter deck which the life size ship had when she was on loan to the Royal Navy.
The crane on my model operates on 3 continuous rotating servos - 2 miniature ones which actually fit inside the crane - 1 for operating the jib - the other for the crane hook. The 3rd one which is a full sized rotating servo, has been geared down - and this operates the slowing of the crane.
The whole lot was originally going to be controlled via computer but ended up as being manually controlled on my 8 channel Transmitter.
I have no video of the crane being operated on the water, as, to be honest with you - it is a bit of a handful. Still 1 or 2 teething problems to sort out - such as when you turn the transmitter & receiver on - one of the mini servos kicks in and begins to run.
Also, it is a bit nerve wracking when the model is on the water and you slew the crane - the model doesn't have list - even without any weight on the hook 😆 .
At a later date I will have to put some form of counter balance underneath the deck - to work in tandem with the crane.
John
This is the Crane from my Seaforth Clansman which I built from plans from Model Boats magazine. I also acquired some plans to go with them - so I could have more detail on my model.
The difference between the model which I built and the plans - is - I added a helicopter deck which the life size ship had when she was on loan to the Royal Navy.
The crane on my model operates on 3 continuous rotating servos - 2 miniature ones which actually fit inside the crane - 1 for operating the jib - the other for the crane hook. The 3rd one which is a full sized rotating servo, has been geared down - and this operates the slowing of the crane.
The whole lot was originally going to be controlled via computer but ended up as being manually controlled on my 8 channel Transmitter.
I have no video of the crane being operated on the water, as, to be honest with you - it is a bit of a handful. Still 1 or 2 teething problems to sort out - such as when you turn the transmitter & receiver on - one of the mini servos kicks in and begins to run.
Also, it is a bit nerve wracking when the model is on the water and you slew the crane - the model doesn't have list - even without any weight on the hook 😆 .
At a later date I will have to put some form of counter balance underneath the deck - to work in tandem with the crane.
John
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📝 Servos going crazy
3 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
I think the problem here is to do with the pulse width - being slightly different - if you are using a servo, let us say from a well known auction site which comes from China - these servos are a bit notorious for glitching because the electronics tend to look for the centre 'off' position, and this causes them to oscillate back and forwards slightly as they are looking for this signal. I have a Hi Tec sail winch servo which does exactly the same thing when I use it on Futaba set-up transmitter and receiver. However, when I use it on the Hi Tec transmitter and receiver it works perfectly. If you have another spare transmitter and receiver of a different make to the one you are using, it may be worth giving it a try to see what happens to see if the servo still glitches.
John
I think the problem here is to do with the pulse width - being slightly different - if you are using a servo, let us say from a well known auction site which comes from China - these servos are a bit notorious for glitching because the electronics tend to look for the centre 'off' position, and this causes them to oscillate back and forwards slightly as they are looking for this signal. I have a Hi Tec sail winch servo which does exactly the same thing when I use it on Futaba set-up transmitter and receiver. However, when I use it on the Hi Tec transmitter and receiver it works perfectly. If you have another spare transmitter and receiver of a different make to the one you are using, it may be worth giving it a try to see what happens to see if the servo still glitches.
John
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📝 Hey Gang, what boat is this?
3 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 21 Views · 6 Likes
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hi there
Yes, Tyne Pilot Boat.
If you send an email off to the Tyne Pilot guys at South Shields at Port of Tyne Authority - they will no doubt be very helpful, as they have been to me in the past with information on boats. No doubt they will be able to supply you with a good bit of information if you ask nicely - you may even obtain some drawings.
Here is a link
Yes, Tyne Pilot Boat.
If you send an email off to the Tyne Pilot guys at South Shields at Port of Tyne Authority - they will no doubt be very helpful, as they have been to me in the past with information on boats. No doubt they will be able to supply you with a good bit of information if you ask nicely - you may even obtain some drawings.
Here is a link
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📝 Vic Smeed RTTL Vosper
3 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 46 Views · 5 Likes
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hi there
The actual photograph that Sarik used is actually of the Vosper I built. It is built plank on frame and somewhere on Mayhem Forum - there is a build of my model which I put on there. If you can source the magazine The Model Maker 1958. It was a Christmas special. The plans were inside that mag. I believe it ran over 2 months - the original build by Vic Smeed
The actual photograph that Sarik used is actually of the Vosper I built. It is built plank on frame and somewhere on Mayhem Forum - there is a build of my model which I put on there. If you can source the magazine The Model Maker 1958. It was a Christmas special. The plans were inside that mag. I believe it ran over 2 months - the original build by Vic Smeed
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📝 Sealing Balsa & Ply
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
I am in the camp of the cellulose sand n sealer along with the acrylic sealer as well. In some extreme cases, I will go in with an epoxy resin. Thinned down, to allow it to soak into the balsa wood.
I have found that the cellulose gives a harder finish and is more 'shall we say' 'ding' resistant than the acrylic. The acrylic does tend to be a bit softer - as you can sometimes (if you stick your nail into it) it will leave a mark.
The epoxy can give you a really hard finish The only thing I can think of on the minus side - is to be careful of when you purchase your sand n sealer, there are brands on the market which are used in wood working, as in building furniture and soforth. This has a slight wax in it.
John
I am in the camp of the cellulose sand n sealer along with the acrylic sealer as well. In some extreme cases, I will go in with an epoxy resin. Thinned down, to allow it to soak into the balsa wood.
I have found that the cellulose gives a harder finish and is more 'shall we say' 'ding' resistant than the acrylic. The acrylic does tend to be a bit softer - as you can sometimes (if you stick your nail into it) it will leave a mark.
The epoxy can give you a really hard finish The only thing I can think of on the minus side - is to be careful of when you purchase your sand n sealer, there are brands on the market which are used in wood working, as in building furniture and soforth. This has a slight wax in it.
John
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📝 ANATOMY OF THE ESC FOR BRUSHED MOTORS. HOW THEY ARE MADE AND HOW THEY WORK IN THE DETAIL OF THEIR EL
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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📝 ANATOMY OF THE ESC FOR BRUSHED MOTORS. HOW THEY ARE MADE AND HOW THEY WORK IN THE DETAIL OF THEIR EL
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 38 Views · 1 Like
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hi there
As usual, when you are looking for one thing - you find another - I was looking for the Maplins circuit diagram, I came across two 'old' Electronize circuit diagrams. These can hold up to 15 amp.
Somewhere, I do have a circuit diagram for a PIC chip speed controller but you do have to have the ability to programme the PIC chip. There are bound to be codes for the PIC chip on line though.
So, I will keep on looking for the other circuit diagrams.
I am easily distracted and find something interesting and my mind wanders off....
see what I mean about my mind wandering off. I will have to find the components pages now to see what the value are of the components..... oh well busy is the happiest way to be as the old song also says - they are coming to take me away haha!
😀🙄🙄
John
As usual, when you are looking for one thing - you find another - I was looking for the Maplins circuit diagram, I came across two 'old' Electronize circuit diagrams. These can hold up to 15 amp.
Somewhere, I do have a circuit diagram for a PIC chip speed controller but you do have to have the ability to programme the PIC chip. There are bound to be codes for the PIC chip on line though.
So, I will keep on looking for the other circuit diagrams.
I am easily distracted and find something interesting and my mind wanders off....
see what I mean about my mind wandering off. I will have to find the components pages now to see what the value are of the components..... oh well busy is the happiest way to be as the old song also says - they are coming to take me away haha!
😀🙄🙄
John
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📝 ANATOMY OF THE ESC FOR BRUSHED MOTORS. HOW THEY ARE MADE AND HOW THEY WORK IN THE DETAIL OF THEIR EL
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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well hello there, as you can gather, the majority of modern day speed controllers rely on pic chips at their heart. These basically replaced the Phillips ZN409CE chip, this chip used to be the main stay of all 'old' pulse speed controllers.
Now, if you can get hold of a book - Electronic Projects for Model Boats by Ken Ginn - there are several diagrams in there for speed controllers - which use ZN409E chips. These chips can be found on various auction sites and if you google it they come up on Google some time. The last one I tried to obtain though - was priced at £30 for one chip!
I do have, somewhere, a circuit diagram for the 'old' Maplins' speed controller. This also uses a ZN409E chip. This speed controller was only rated at 5 amp.
John
Now, if you can get hold of a book - Electronic Projects for Model Boats by Ken Ginn - there are several diagrams in there for speed controllers - which use ZN409E chips. These chips can be found on various auction sites and if you google it they come up on Google some time. The last one I tried to obtain though - was priced at £30 for one chip!
I do have, somewhere, a circuit diagram for the 'old' Maplins' speed controller. This also uses a ZN409E chip. This speed controller was only rated at 5 amp.
John
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📝 Bidirectional motor speed reduction circuit
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there Lew
I have a feeling, my friend, you may have to bite the bullet with this one and alter the gearing to slow the crane down. I have been reading back through the posting and it does look like an 'all in one' circuit board that you are working with - very difficult to alter / tamper with.
I suppose though the other alternative would be - to gut the old electronics out and replace with say a Futaba receiver. Then, you would obviously have to have speed controller for the tracks on one channel (forward and back of the actual movement of the crane) - then you would require the other 3 channels for the operation of the crane itself and they could be done with small, cheap, speed controllers.
I have done this myself before on a model - but - for the winches on the crane, I used continuous rotating servos with drums attached for the cables & etc.
The speed controllers I bought came from a local Company - and I will try and find the link - because it is a long time since I made this model. I can put the link on for you if I find it.
John
I have a feeling, my friend, you may have to bite the bullet with this one and alter the gearing to slow the crane down. I have been reading back through the posting and it does look like an 'all in one' circuit board that you are working with - very difficult to alter / tamper with.
I suppose though the other alternative would be - to gut the old electronics out and replace with say a Futaba receiver. Then, you would obviously have to have speed controller for the tracks on one channel (forward and back of the actual movement of the crane) - then you would require the other 3 channels for the operation of the crane itself and they could be done with small, cheap, speed controllers.
I have done this myself before on a model - but - for the winches on the crane, I used continuous rotating servos with drums attached for the cables & etc.
The speed controllers I bought came from a local Company - and I will try and find the link - because it is a long time since I made this model. I can put the link on for you if I find it.
John
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📝 Bidirectional motor speed reduction circuit
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 30 Views · 1 Like
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hi there
If you are handy with a soldering iron, I suppose that you could construct this little voltage regulator. This would vary the speed of your motor.
The only downside is that you only have 5 volts input which is on the low side for a lot of I.C control units.
John
If you are handy with a soldering iron, I suppose that you could construct this little voltage regulator. This would vary the speed of your motor.
The only downside is that you only have 5 volts input which is on the low side for a lot of I.C control units.
John
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📝 Bidirectional motor speed reduction circuit
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi ya Lew
My main concern about what you are trying to do is - the power supply from that circuit board to the crane motor may already be a variable voltage supply, by a pulse with voltage gizmo on the circuit board. Similar to the way the circuitry in a speed controller works. It sends a pulse of signals. I suppose one way of testing would be to replace the motor with a 6 volt bulb. If the bulb dims as you move your lever on your control and it starts to flash, this will be an indication that it is a pulse system. If not, you may be able to replace or fit a little gizmo from China, which I have used quite often and it is a motor speed controller from 'Ali Express'.
I will put a link on here as well, when I refind it for you.
John
My main concern about what you are trying to do is - the power supply from that circuit board to the crane motor may already be a variable voltage supply, by a pulse with voltage gizmo on the circuit board. Similar to the way the circuitry in a speed controller works. It sends a pulse of signals. I suppose one way of testing would be to replace the motor with a 6 volt bulb. If the bulb dims as you move your lever on your control and it starts to flash, this will be an indication that it is a pulse system. If not, you may be able to replace or fit a little gizmo from China, which I have used quite often and it is a motor speed controller from 'Ali Express'.
I will put a link on here as well, when I refind it for you.
John
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📝 HMS Dido (WW2) 1/96 or 1/128
5 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there
what you need to do is try and find and obtain the drawing from Norman Ough - Norman drew up a set of plans to cover this vessel. They are a bit difficult to get hold of - however, there is an illustration in his book ' The life and ship models of Norman Ough
by Alistair Roach'
If you could enlarge this drawing from the book - it would help you a great deal.
As for fittings, there is a chap who is quite well known, John Haynes, if you find his email address and send him an email. John may help you with bridge fittings - he has helped me a few times - when I built HMS Exeter.
John
what you need to do is try and find and obtain the drawing from Norman Ough - Norman drew up a set of plans to cover this vessel. They are a bit difficult to get hold of - however, there is an illustration in his book ' The life and ship models of Norman Ough
by Alistair Roach'
If you could enlarge this drawing from the book - it would help you a great deal.
As for fittings, there is a chap who is quite well known, John Haynes, if you find his email address and send him an email. John may help you with bridge fittings - he has helped me a few times - when I built HMS Exeter.
John
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📝 Technical data
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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To begin with I used several sets of drawings.
I purchased a CD from a well known site on the web - containing the original drawings of Bluebird (as she was built). Also a few modifications to her.
I purchased a set of plans from the old MAP site; these were of her final disguise.
Then there were several books which I used for reference, which I will list further on for anyone interested.
The materials used for Bluebird model consist of 2mm lite ply and also balsa wood. Obechi strip used for the majority of the planking. She is also coated in purely 4 coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin.
First thing I did was make myself a true and flat building board to work from.
I made loads of little plywood clamps so I could clamp the base of the hull which is 2mm lite ply flat to the building board.
I didnt want the bottom to distort in any way. Then, I added the 2 internal keel frames which I glued in 90 degrees to the hull bottom. Then I started adding the frame ribs. Not once removing the model from the building board, it had to be kept flat and true.
The next thing I did was to plank the internal thrust tube and this gave the hull immense rigidity because it is made in place and glued through the frames.
The fan: Electric ducted fan and speed controller
This is of an 80 mm internal diameter. 12 blades. Producing (so they say) just under 7 lb of thrust. Running on 22 volts. The speed controller is 120 amp capacity - 24 volt. This is, bearing in mind, all new to me (new territory that is).
Couple of things for anyone new to the ducted fans which I learnt was - what you suck in the front - you can only push out the back of the fan that is 🤓 . The air is not expanded into a gas as in a real jet engine.
The other thing is you can reach (what they would class as a terminal velocity) where if you are lucky enough the fan will be travelling at the same speed as the air it is pulling in. You have to think about this one a bit - as the fan cannot go faster than the air it is pulling in.
We will leave it at that for a moment.
Couple of pics.
Oh, this is a picture of where the servo is mounted for the rudder and it drives the rudder through an aircraft snake.
John
I purchased a CD from a well known site on the web - containing the original drawings of Bluebird (as she was built). Also a few modifications to her.
I purchased a set of plans from the old MAP site; these were of her final disguise.
Then there were several books which I used for reference, which I will list further on for anyone interested.
The materials used for Bluebird model consist of 2mm lite ply and also balsa wood. Obechi strip used for the majority of the planking. She is also coated in purely 4 coats of Z-Poxy finishing resin.
First thing I did was make myself a true and flat building board to work from.
I made loads of little plywood clamps so I could clamp the base of the hull which is 2mm lite ply flat to the building board.
I didnt want the bottom to distort in any way. Then, I added the 2 internal keel frames which I glued in 90 degrees to the hull bottom. Then I started adding the frame ribs. Not once removing the model from the building board, it had to be kept flat and true.
The next thing I did was to plank the internal thrust tube and this gave the hull immense rigidity because it is made in place and glued through the frames.
The fan: Electric ducted fan and speed controller
This is of an 80 mm internal diameter. 12 blades. Producing (so they say) just under 7 lb of thrust. Running on 22 volts. The speed controller is 120 amp capacity - 24 volt. This is, bearing in mind, all new to me (new territory that is).
Couple of things for anyone new to the ducted fans which I learnt was - what you suck in the front - you can only push out the back of the fan that is 🤓 . The air is not expanded into a gas as in a real jet engine.
The other thing is you can reach (what they would class as a terminal velocity) where if you are lucky enough the fan will be travelling at the same speed as the air it is pulling in. You have to think about this one a bit - as the fan cannot go faster than the air it is pulling in.
We will leave it at that for a moment.
Couple of pics.
Oh, this is a picture of where the servo is mounted for the rudder and it drives the rudder through an aircraft snake.
John
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📝 Electric ducted fan Bluebird
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there, this is a project which I have been working on. It began as a feasibility study to see if it is possible to drive a scale model Bluebird with a ducted fan. As people were saying, the air intake required for the fan to perform at 100% and larger than the ones available on the scale Bluebird. That is why you see on certain videos and in model magazines, a stand-off style Bluebird, with a very large/over scaled air intake.
So, this was my assignment. I achieved it - I would say by 97%.
I overcame the airflow intake problem by manufacturing the canopy from some aluminium mesh and also either side of the canopy on the deck there are 2 openings which are covered in mesh. This seems to give me sufficient airflow for the fan. The fan is 80 mm diameter running on 22 volts and the model is 1/8 scale. It has been clocked by the satellite GPS (which is fitted onboard) at 31 mph which is quite acceptable in my books.
John
So, this was my assignment. I achieved it - I would say by 97%.
I overcame the airflow intake problem by manufacturing the canopy from some aluminium mesh and also either side of the canopy on the deck there are 2 openings which are covered in mesh. This seems to give me sufficient airflow for the fan. The fan is 80 mm diameter running on 22 volts and the model is 1/8 scale. It has been clocked by the satellite GPS (which is fitted onboard) at 31 mph which is quite acceptable in my books.
John
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📝 Electric ducted fan driven Bluebird
6 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there, this is a project which I have been working on. It began as a feasibility study to see if it is possible to drive a scale model Bluebird with a ducted fan. As people were saying, the air intake required for the fan to perform at 100% and larger than the ones available on the scale Bluebird. That is why you see on certain videos and in model magazines, a stand-off style Bluebird, with a very large/over scaled air intake.
So, this was my assignment. I achieved it - I would say by 97%.
I overcame the airflow intake problem by manufacturing the canopy from some aluminium mesh and also either side of the canopy on the deck there are 2 openings which are covered in mesh. This seems to give me sufficient airflow for the fan. The fan is 80 mm diameter running on 22 volts and the model is 1/8 scale. It has been clocked by the satellite GPS (which is fitted onboard) at 31 mph which is quite acceptable in my books.
John
So, this was my assignment. I achieved it - I would say by 97%.
I overcame the airflow intake problem by manufacturing the canopy from some aluminium mesh and also either side of the canopy on the deck there are 2 openings which are covered in mesh. This seems to give me sufficient airflow for the fan. The fan is 80 mm diameter running on 22 volts and the model is 1/8 scale. It has been clocked by the satellite GPS (which is fitted onboard) at 31 mph which is quite acceptable in my books.
John
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💬 Re: Identification Help needed British Warship
9 months ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there, this looks definitely like a Castle Class hull - John Lambert did some drawings for them and also Norman Ough - you may be able to purchase the drawings from Ebay/or someone may have them to borrow.
I am in the process of building one a plank on frame - its one of my many projects on the go.
John
I am in the process of building one a plank on frame - its one of my many projects on the go.
John
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📝 From plan to board
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Agree totally with the photocopying and sticking on card, however, one has to be careful - sometimes the printer distort the drawings to fit onto the paper - this is especially evident when using plans from magazines. I believe Martin the Scots Martin as I call him :-) he had a lot of trouble copying frames, due to distortion. So, anyone photocopying - word of caution check there is no distortion.
John
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📝 From plan to board
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi there
As has been suggested, there are several other methods for transferring from plans to the building materials. It depends on your own self and your own preference. The more practice the better your skills become with less mistakes. Pick a method or try several until you find one which suits you.
I prefer the tracing method - to me this does have several advantages - especially when producing a complicated hull shape. You can lay your tracings on top of each other to ensure your tracings all run true. The other advantage is, when you place the tracing on the materials that you are going to use, you can move them around so you gain the best use from your materials with the least wastage.
Couple of images from a few builds that I have done. If you would like to read through a few complete builds for the beginner - there are a series of builds in the masterclass section of Mayhem. Starting with a very easy Swordsman build and ending with the build of RAF Whaleback - diagonally planked.
As has been suggested, there are several other methods for transferring from plans to the building materials. It depends on your own self and your own preference. The more practice the better your skills become with less mistakes. Pick a method or try several until you find one which suits you.
I prefer the tracing method - to me this does have several advantages - especially when producing a complicated hull shape. You can lay your tracings on top of each other to ensure your tracings all run true. The other advantage is, when you place the tracing on the materials that you are going to use, you can move them around so you gain the best use from your materials with the least wastage.
Couple of images from a few builds that I have done. If you would like to read through a few complete builds for the beginner - there are a series of builds in the masterclass section of Mayhem. Starting with a very easy Swordsman build and ending with the build of RAF Whaleback - diagonally planked.
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💬 Re: virgin boat
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there, nice looking model. Yes I built this one as well. It is a pleasure to sail on the lake - if you have a look in My Harbour you will see there are a few photographs of the one I built.
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💬 Re: Virgin Atlantic Challenger I
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there, I don't know what went wrong with my posting - but - anyhow, I built this model a few year ago of the original version of Virgin Atlantic Challenger - the one that sank. I had a similar motor setup to what you have in your model and it would never plane properly. I believe the problem to be where the prop tubes exit the hull; behind the last step; there is a build up of vacuum created by the props. This stalls the boat. It makes the boat underperform. In some future time, I intend to remove the prop shafts from my model and move them further back and also to make the prop tube angle slightly steeper to give the props more clearance from the back end.
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📝 virgin boat
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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new boat
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💬 Re: Norman McLeod Rogers
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi Martin, if you removed those thick lumps of plywood from underneath the motor mounts - shaved a bit off the bottom of the motor mounts - so they fit snuggly into the bottom of the hull - using this method would this not allow you to fit the motors directly in line with the shafts and dispensing with the belt drive.
John
John
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💬 Re: Norman McLeod Rogers
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Couple of pics of home made motor mounts that would be suitable for your model. Also, your motors may be a little too large for that model. I myself would go for MFA Low Drain 550s.
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💬 Re: Norman McLeod Rogers
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Hi,
Hows about mounting the motors upside down? That should give you ample clearance between your hull and the motors - and - you will be able to mount them closer to your prop-shafts. I have done this myself on the Seaforth Clansman and it works just as good as normal mounted motors . But as they say one has to suit oneself :-)
John🤓
Hows about mounting the motors upside down? That should give you ample clearance between your hull and the motors - and - you will be able to mount them closer to your prop-shafts. I have done this myself on the Seaforth Clansman and it works just as good as normal mounted motors . But as they say one has to suit oneself :-)
John🤓
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📝 BLUEBIRD K7
2 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 82 Views · 1 Like
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Hi this may help you out
john
john
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Northernflotsam
💬 Re: HMs aJAX
3 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 58 Views · 0 Likes
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hi there
You may already know about this site, but, this is the Dock Museum Website - this is where HMS Ajax was built and, although, the photographs are a bit small they may still help you out. Be warned, you can spend many an hour on this website - just looking at images :-) .
You may already know about this site, but, this is the Dock Museum Website - this is where HMS Ajax was built and, although, the photographs are a bit small they may still help you out. Be warned, you can spend many an hour on this website - just looking at images :-) .
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💬 Re: Scratch built, Working Steam powered Drifter trawler LT100, to 1:24th scale.
3 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there,
I know this may be a bit late in the day, however, I have really enjoyed reading through this build. I have a question, Stephen, have you read the book ' From Tree to Sea by Ted Frost' its the building of a steam drifter.
It is an extremely interesting read on how old fashioned boat building was done and there are loads of sketches & etc.
I know this may be a bit late in the day, however, I have really enjoyed reading through this build. I have a question, Stephen, have you read the book ' From Tree to Sea by Ted Frost' its the building of a steam drifter.
It is an extremely interesting read on how old fashioned boat building was done and there are loads of sketches & etc.
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💬 Re: C.C.G.S. Norman Mcleod Rogers Icebreaker
3 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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Don't give up Mr Scotsman - 🤗 - the Castle Class hull was started 2 years ago - and I have just started to finish off the hull now - because I commenced the build of an Island Class vessel, HMS Lindisfarne, which I am more than half way through now.
Never in the field of human conflict have I ever done more than one hull at a time - but here I am now with 2 on the go - contemplating a third one 😁 so don't shelve it - but sit back for a while and the golden rule will always be nothing is ever perfect, so, don't try and make it perfect. Your frames may be slightly out and you compensate for the errors when you come to plank and fill with car body filler to correct the errors. Nobody will ever know once you have slapped some paint on it.
john
Never in the field of human conflict have I ever done more than one hull at a time - but here I am now with 2 on the go - contemplating a third one 😁 so don't shelve it - but sit back for a while and the golden rule will always be nothing is ever perfect, so, don't try and make it perfect. Your frames may be slightly out and you compensate for the errors when you come to plank and fill with car body filler to correct the errors. Nobody will ever know once you have slapped some paint on it.
john
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💬 Re: Items Ordered
3 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
Midshipman)✧ 122 Views · 5 Likes
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hi Fred
Have you given much thought of how you are going to construct the hull? I know the original was bread and butter balsa. Then, I believe, they came up with the vac-formed hull.
When I built mine I used the templates for the shape of the hull that is given in the plan to construct frames. I planked the hull.
Lovely little model they are to sail. I have sailed mine in many a steering competition. The only thing I had to do was make the rudder larger - as - it didnt respond to helm in reverse and it just decided which way it was going to go by itself.😁
John
Have you given much thought of how you are going to construct the hull? I know the original was bread and butter balsa. Then, I believe, they came up with the vac-formed hull.
When I built mine I used the templates for the shape of the hull that is given in the plan to construct frames. I planked the hull.
Lovely little model they are to sail. I have sailed mine in many a steering competition. The only thing I had to do was make the rudder larger - as - it didnt respond to helm in reverse and it just decided which way it was going to go by itself.😁
John
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📝 1/24 scale Vosper RTTL with a wooden hull
3 years ago by 🇬🇧 JOHN ( Midshipman)
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hi there Phil
In theory, it would really be better if you could go back to the bare wood. That gives the Z-Epoxy a good surface to adhere to without any interference from shall we say flaky or loose paint. Also, the Z-Epoxy would penetrate the first layer of plywood skin and toughen it right up and it would possibly amend any soft areas in the plywood. If you leave paint on, you are relying on the paint having a good bond with the plywood and then relying on the Epoxy not having a reaction to the paint as well.
So best is to try and remove as much of the paint as possible.
I have a feeling this will be a sort of old lead based paint. So, you could use some chemical paint stripper but be very careful - obviously painting a small test area of the hull at first and - this will enable you to see if this works. If this does work, obviously strip the hull back and then rinse the hull off with warm, clean water. Dry the hull, rub it down with a light sand paper and then apply the Z-Epoxy.
There are plenty videos on You Tube showing you how to use Z-Epoxy if you are unsure. But, you can always ask here on the Forum and we can all chip in with our ideas to help you along.
In theory, it would really be better if you could go back to the bare wood. That gives the Z-Epoxy a good surface to adhere to without any interference from shall we say flaky or loose paint. Also, the Z-Epoxy would penetrate the first layer of plywood skin and toughen it right up and it would possibly amend any soft areas in the plywood. If you leave paint on, you are relying on the paint having a good bond with the plywood and then relying on the Epoxy not having a reaction to the paint as well.
So best is to try and remove as much of the paint as possible.
I have a feeling this will be a sort of old lead based paint. So, you could use some chemical paint stripper but be very careful - obviously painting a small test area of the hull at first and - this will enable you to see if this works. If this does work, obviously strip the hull back and then rinse the hull off with warm, clean water. Dry the hull, rub it down with a light sand paper and then apply the Z-Epoxy.
There are plenty videos on You Tube showing you how to use Z-Epoxy if you are unsure. But, you can always ask here on the Forum and we can all chip in with our ideas to help you along.
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