Members Harbour
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Springer #4 USACOE Stoplog
This is my fourth Springer tug. It was built to resemble the U.S. Army's Corps of Engineers stoplog tug located at Little Goose Dam in Washington State. The scale is about 1/17. The model had to be modified slightly because the length to beam ratio between the real tug and a Springer are slightly different. This keeps the model within the Springer class rules.
LewZ
5 months ago
10 Attributes
2 Photos
11 Likes
Modular Barge Set
In order for my truckable push boat ("Springer") to move something I built this modular barge (which are individually truckable). This is one piece but has slits to simulate the joining groves and seams which results in the look of four modules fastened together.
Eventually I will have the working crane tied down to the deck.
The crane in the photo is the "before" view. It now is significantly modified with an extended boom and other changes.
LewZ
10 months ago
1 Attribute
3 Photos
20 Likes
Small work barge
I built this barge to go with my 1/35 scale towboat. It is made of 1/2 inch plywood hull and a 1/4 inch plywood deck. There is a grid of Neodymium magnets spaced on and imbedded flus with the deck.
This barge can be used by itself with different scale boats or used as a 1/35 scale barge with the accessories added. First accessory was the workshop (detailed inside), a pickup truck, toilet, and trash can. Latest (2022) addition is the gantry crane as shown in the photos.
LewZ
10 months ago
1 Attribute
3 Photos
15 Likes
Large Coal Barge
I salvage this large (5 foot - 152cm) barge from the trash heap from a model boat club (BAEB) that closed. It was used for competition towing contests. From the deck up I completely re-renovated it to represent a coal barge. The "coal" is the "oil dry" granules cemented on a panel of carved foam on a plywood thin plywood base and painted flat black. It is removable so weight (bricks, water bottles, etc.) can be added inside the hull. Total weight is well over 100 pounds -(45kg). The sturdy hull and deck is heavy plywood that has been fiber glassed.
LewZ
10 months ago
1 Attribute
3 Photos
11 Likes
Emma C. Berry
This model is from the Sterling (USA) model kit of the same name. It was one of my first models built in the early 1970's. I had planned it to be R/C by adding some keel weights and fiber glassed the hull as the kit hull material was 1/8 inch balsa sheet sections on frame. The hull is quite solid, sealed, and has a smooth finish. Basically everything is built to the kits instructions with a number of additional details.
These 2023 photos reflect a number of years (50+) it has been sitting on my shelf above my Civil War desk (my build) so pardon the dust.
LewZ
10 months ago
1 Attribute
1 Photo
14 Likes
Springer #4 (US Army Corps of Engineers tug)
This "Springer" is based on the "Stoplog" tug used a the Little Goose Dam in the USA COE Wall Walla district on the Snake River. From the deck up it replicates the real tug, and from the deck down follows the "Springer" regulations. (The hull components are from Zippkits.) Drawings were obtained from the marine architect and photographs from the internet as well as the boat builder.
(Currently under construction.)
LewZ
1 year ago
8 Attributes
1 Photo
6 Likes
Piccadilly (Sailboat, 50/800 class)
The hull (along with 2 more, but never built) was purchased in 1975 during our visit to the U.K. Went directly to the builders small factory and arranged with Mr. Frank Parsons to ship the hulls (hulls, transoms, one deck) to our home in the U.S.
Made the masts and sails, fin, rudder and the innards for it.
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
1 Photo
6 Likes
Herass (Sailboat, 50/800 class)
This is a commercial made (in the U.S. by Vortex), based on the real Soling competition boats. For mine, made two new masts and sails, one medium and one at the maximum height, both using the maximum sail area permitted.
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
1 Photo
1 Like
Flat Chines (Sailboat, 50/800 class)
A scratch build based a small plans in Model Boat magazine back in the 1980s. The boat was a dismal sailer exceptunder a high wind when it would briefly get up on a plane and skid across the pond.
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
5 Photos
6 Likes
Frederick Mistral (aka "Duna)
Here is my partial build model of the Frederick Mistral. The kit was made by Anfora and for some reason they call it "Duna".
What stopped me from continuing was the rudder control. This was via a chain that ran on both sides of the deck just inside the gunwale. This ran from the pilot house back to a cam like arm on the rudder post. there were a series of pulleys along the inside of the gunwale to keep the chain in place.
My problem was that I could not find a small chain that could withstand the tension.
I made a lot of corrections/modifications to it following photos of the real tug. This included many new/replacement parts that I had 3D printed by Shapeways. They are shown in the last three photos.
This is an interest tug *(the historic original is still floating on the Danube River) and I wish I could finish it.
Lew
LewZ
2 years ago
6 Attributes
2 Photos
1 Like
My Web Site (LewsModelBoats.org)
My "Scale Model Boats" (and tanks... and more) web site is http://lewsmodelboats.org
It goes into a lot of detail on my model boats, tanks, R/C, 3D modeling, 3D parts, tips, and beyond, including many photos and links to videos.
Along the same line, I have YouTube channel "eymccauley" (American Civil War naval officer) link: https://www.youtube.com/c/eymccauley/videos where you can find videos of scale model boats, tanks, club meets here in Florida U.AS.A.) and more.
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
4 Photos
6 Likes
"Star Wars" Patrol Boat
As weird as it sounds I just can't seem to see a model boat go in the trash. In this case, you can see the derelict model in the first two photos. It's not very fast and has a low freeboard.
I decided to have some fun with this one - the photos are evident as to what I did. (1/12 scale.)
Lew
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
7 Photos
2 Likes
Ironclads of the U.S. Civil War (1861-1865)
Disclosure: First off, these are not my models, but that of the "Old Navy" Steve Lund and Bill Hathaway.
I had the pleasure of meeting them in 2007 at the Monitor Center at the Mariners' Museum in Virginia, U.S.A. At that time I was involved in Civil War reenacting (role as a U.S. navy officer) and we were all participating at a special event. The "Old Navy" guys brought a trailer loaded with 1/35 scale R/C ironclad models.
I am putting together this information in case others are interested in building a Civil War ironclad, and need more information. I thought I had more still photos of the models but these are all I found. The video shows many of the models.
[Sure, the U.S was not the first country to have an ironclad but did have the first battle between the in March 1862. Between the north and the south about 66 ironclads were completed during these four years. Some quite simple and others quite out of the norm. If you want to build a U.S. ironclad check them out - the variety is amazing.]
The first photo is the full scale replica (hollow) of the U.S.S. Monitor located behind the museum.
The second photo is that of Steve (right) and Bill (left), middle person is unknown. They are standing in front of an accurate reproduction of the Monitor at 1/35 scale. It an R/C - powered model.
The remaining photos are close-ups of the Monitor model.
So here is my video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMnEmFW0XPk The video is a bit old but I think you get the idea.
Steve and Bill made an excellent book, 'Modeling the Ironclads" which is available at: https://thenrgstore.org/products/modeling-the-ironclads .
However you can preview it or print this out yourself you can download it at: https://walternelson.com/ironclads.pdf
ps. I was going to build a 1/35 scale Monitor but got side tracked while searching for a way to make thick, black smoke which I could not find and this project eventually gave way to building other models.
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
5 Photos
4 Likes
Standard Oil Tug
Well, we all started somewhere!
My first model boat (not including inexpensive model kits as a kid) was the Sterling kit, "Emma C. Berry." I had planned to R/C it including glassing the hull, but never got that far. So jumping forward to the next model I scaled up that little Standard oil tug kit "Despatch No. 9".
I scaled it up to be 42 inches long and about 35 pounds in weight. Made mostly out of planked balsa with fiberglass covered hull it was not well done with many imperfections but from 10 feet away it looked good.
Back then (early 1970's) there was not too many components available for large R/C scale models especially here in Florida, the "boonies" back then. I used a automobile heater motor for the drive and a servo driven three position switch for the speeds (low, medium, high) with power resistors. Another servo driven switch for forward, stop, and reverse. The radio was a four channel Heathkit that I had to build up. Power came from a 6V motorcycle battery.
I enjoyed this boat for a few years. I bought the Graupner Schnellboot "Wiesel" in London in 1975, started it, but it took another 35 years before I finished it. Is that a record?
Now the old tug sits up high on a shelf where it gets little notice. It reminds me to think about how the finished boat should not look. (Even the "S" on one side of the stack is up-side-down.) To make matters worse, I added some expanding foam under the deck for floatation - oops, needless to say I got more camber to the deck that I really wanted.
Lew
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
7 Photos
12 Likes
Club Rescue Boat ("Miss Amelia"; scratch built; Scale: ~1/18)
What do you do with a boat hull that nobody wants, not in good condition, and not realistic looking? Build something different!
This boat was the model for a "Balloon Boat". OK, this was a competitive one design boat where each boat had a balloon tied to the stern and a long prick on the front. The object was to puncture all the balloons and the last boat remaining with a balloon inflated was the winner.
This was the prototype from which a mold was made and fiberglass hulls were produced.
Now back to this boat... As you can see this hull has a weird shape and not built for speed. However it is very stable. By tearing out the guts and adding a Kort nozzle with a five blade prop yet trying to keep a "scale" appearance, this boat became the SSMBC's rescue boat. All it needed was a yoke to catch the disabled boat. Simple electronics, a stable platform, good power all makes for a good rescue boat. So far the record push for this boat is a 60 pound whaleback freighter.
LewZ
2 years ago
6 Attributes
8 Photos
3 Likes
PT61 Gunboat WWII (Frank's kit with major mods; Scale: 1/20)
This boat kit was started by buyer and passed though many hands until it finally reached me. Before starting I looked at the history of the PT-61. In the middle of WWII it was converted to a gunboat along with PT-59 & PT60.
Trying to gather information took a long time before being able to start construction (which involved de-construction by the original owner).
This is a heavy model but runs like the real one would because of all the armor, guns, and ammo on board. Yes, the real PT-61 did have two 40mm Bofors and sixteen 50 caliber BMGs.
All three motors work, the outer two run through ESCs and the center one has a servo driven switch running forward only on another channel
LewZ
2 years ago
7 Attributes
6 Photos
4 Likes
Springer #3 (Zip Kits; Scale: 1/18)
This Springer (Jo Ann) is my third Springer build, I made it for my son. It is based on a real truckable pushboat but one that I saw within about 1,000 feet from where we operate our model boats (Lake Seminole Park, Florida). To get the real one in the water it had to pass the pond within a 100 feet of the road. I took a lot of photos of it from the shore and planned out how to build the model.
LewZ
2 years ago
8 Attributes
4 Photos
4 Likes
Springer #2 (Zipp Kits; Scale: ~1/25)
Ah, the "Skeleton Crew" Bill E. Bones! This Springer obviously has a comical theme. Unfortunately it is kind of top heavy and wind is its enemy. I will probably make an alternate structure for it. Bad planning!
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
7 Photos
4 Likes
Springer #1 (Zipp kits - Scale: 1/18)
Looking for a fun boat? Take a look at the Springer type tugs. Zipp Kits is one manufacture that makes the Springer easy to build and inexpensive. You can easily scratch build on yourself. I bought four of these.
At 18 inches long they are small and "turn on a dime" and can be quite quirky like trying to ride a wild horse - a lot of fun. You can build them in almost any style (above the deck) from looking like a real truckable pushboat (like this model) to something completely zany. Let you imagination run its course.
If you follow the regulations/specifications, these boats are meant to be "one-design" that is from the deck down there as rules and dimensions that apply so the boats can compete in water sports and racing.
This one is base on a real pushboat that I found on the internet. The cabin can rise up thanks to some old inkjet printer parts I save a while back.
LewZ
2 years ago
7 Attributes
2 Photos
1 Like
Modular Barge (Scratch build; Scale: ~1/16)
Want to build a barge to go with a Springer tug? Modular barges are truckable, that is they can be brought to a site, unloaded, fastened together to make a larger barge or bridge of almost any configuration. The real ones come in several sizes, 10 X 10, 10 X 20, and 10 X 40 (feet), X 5 feet high, are the most common sizes. A variety of accessories can be added.
Mine is actually one barge scored to look like four 10 X 20 barges tied together. It is made out of wood (34" sides, ends, X 1/4" top and bottom with some weight added internally.
LewZ
2 years ago
0 Attributes
Members Blogs
2 Posts
3 Followers
27 Likes
Jim's Model Boat Launcher / Retriever
Finally tired of using my launcher (PVC pipe and fittings) and had SSMBC member build me a special one. (He has made a bunch of his version.) I am taller than him and have some back issues so I got one about 5 inches taller.
The photo here shows it as I got it today at the meet. Need to prep and paint and add padding.
It is made using 1/2 and 3/4" EMT steel and can handle at least 80 pounds.
Lew
Florida , USA
LewZ
3 months ago
1 Post
1 Follower
6 Likes
Modifying a Posable (jointed) Figure to Loo Realistic
I just posted a video on how to modify a Bruder figure to look more realistic on YouTube. This also can apply to other figures that have flexible joints as well. The YouTube link is below.
Lew
Florida , USA๏ธ
https://youtu.be/TvrWWmZOI-U
LewZ
4 months ago
2 Posts
6 Followers
23 Likes
Automatic Bilge Pump for RC Boats
I just finished putting together a circuit, testing it and creating a video for an automatic bilge pump. This circuit can also be used to trigger a warning light or noise/sound.
Easy to build and inexpensive. The video shows the pump working. Enjoy!
Lew
Florida ๏ธ, USA
https://youtu.be/l32YRTsu4Ho
LewZ
6 months ago
2 Posts
8 Followers
26 Likes
Display Case for Model Boats
I thought you fellow model boaters might be interested in how I built a case for my Wiesel "Schnellboot". It certainly keeps the dust off. I have posted this on a build blog, hopefully it will be easy to find in the future.
First, the Wiesel model is 42 inches long by 7 inches wide X 16 inches high. In designing the case I wanted a clear unobstructed side view of the model which demands a single large pane. Therefore the model has to be removed via a side panel, and in this case I decided to make both ends to open. I also wanted clear top to allow light in.
Rather than use expensive wood, I opted for widely available lumber (white wood) which I would stain to a Walnut color. I used "1 by XX" lumber which is about 3/4 inch thick. This case is symmetrical (except for the doors swing) so it could be set in the middle of a room and viewed all around.
The base is 3/4" X 12" X 54". The other pieces are 3/4" X 1 inch by various lengths. The model sits on a removable base and stand stained to the same Walnut color.
I found one of the local plastics distributors sells 4 ft X 8 ft plexiglass sheets about .100 inch thick. for a small extra charge (by the cut) they have an accurate and quick saw that did a great job. I made the drawing (attached) for the cuts and a few days later picked up the panels.
Found some nice brass latches and hinges for the end doors in a local store.
The wood is cut to the needed sizes. Using my table saw I made the grooves for the panels to slide into. My sawblade was slightly wider that the thickness of the panels.
Note that I did not glue the panels in place. Everything held pretty good. When moving the case take the model out to avoid breaking the joints. I also added some corner bracings in the top to side corners (see photo).
Steps:
1 - Determine the size and make drawings for the wood and plexiglass.
2 - Obtain materials
3 - Cut the wood pieces.
4 - Stain the wood pieces except for where they are glued to make strong joints.
5 - Assemble sliding the panes into the grooves. Glue joint. I used a pneumatic nail gun to make the joints stronger as well as making the assembly faster.
6 - Varnish the finish, masking off the panes. (Do some thinking ahead on some of the pieces on the inside of the case before assembly.)
7 - Enjoy your model in its new home.
I also made a matching box for the fluorescent tube lights (they didn't have good LED strips back when I built this) that sits on top of the case. Good lighting is recommended.
Photos:
01 - Full side.
02 - Corner view.
03 - Door latch.
04 - Internal corner brace (1 of 4).
05 - Slightly different corner view with model slid out slightly.
06 - Top of case.
07 - Top of case (light on).
08 - Full side (light on).
09 - Display case drawing.
10 - Layout drawing for cutting panes.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Lew
Florida , USA
LewZ
9 months ago
1 Post
2 Followers
9 Likes
Modular Barge - Model Construction
With the great responses to my recent posting on my "Modular Barge" I would like to share my construction information. The instructions are in the PDF. I have attached the photos here as well to they can be zoomed in on.
Any questions, feel free to ask!
Lew
Florida ๏ธ, USA
LewZ
10 months ago
2 Posts
4 Followers
14 Likes
Springer #1 - Making an elevating pilot house
I thought I would put together a video on this title. It follows the concept of making something travel a linear distance with limit stops on both ends. The belt and pulleys are from an old HP inkjet printer. (Lots of usable parts in these discarded printers.) This Springer is based on a real boat using four photographs. Enjoy!
Lew
Florida, USA
https://youtu.be/ny1ukVCP4Gc?si=VifrtoZ9wqx6hixZ
LewZ
12 months ago
4 Posts
6 Followers
15 Likes
Atlantic "Tug" [sic] Restoration
Hi all...
A while back I was given two Atlantic "Tugs" (by separate people). One was in very good condition (but with the old FM radio) which I passed on to another member and the other is the subject for this post.
These Atlantic "tugs" [sic] have a very toy like design, especially the hull's gunwale (curve) when viewed from the side. That being said, I would like to restore it, probably to another type boat as I don't want to start cutting the gunwale. to flatten it some.
Now the condition of everything is fair and the hull is pretty solid. (The hole in the bow area is a chop job done by the previous owner to install a bow thruster.) Everything is dirty bun ca be cleaned up. It is missing the wheelhouse. I would like to re-use (modify?) the superstructure.
So, here's where all of you come in. Given the shape of the hull and structure, do any of you have any ideas what this could be made into based on a real boat's looks? (If there are any real tugs in the style/looks, could you pass that info on to me?)
Thanks,
Lew
LewZ
1 year ago
1 Post
4 Followers
18 Likes
Beam Trawler Build (single drag net)
I have been asked by Mike (on this forum) on how I made the fish net for my trawler, so I decided to enter this in a build blog for anyone else to view.
Building a trawler was not one of my priorities in building RC scale model boats. However I came across a deal I could not pass up and this partially built boat (33-inch long Artesania Latina โHelenโ) was part of the package. Despite the tall masts and netting, this is a very good sailing boat, forward and backward.
I renamed the boat โElenaโ with โH-103โ as the registry number simulating that it would be out of Hull Harbor, U.K.
When I decided to continue the build (after some de-construction) from the deck up, I also looked into similar real boats off the east coast of the U.K. I downloaded photos and information on how these drag trawlers operated and the type of nets and equipment on board. (I am not a commercial fisherman so Iโm sure someone will correct me here.)
It looked like this type of trawler is called a โbeam trawlerโ where the boom holds the horizontal โbeamโ that spreads the net apart. The net is open on the front end with the top edge strung with floats (here, beads) and the bottom edge with weights (here small fishing line sinkers). The top edge is pretty much aligned with the beam and the bottom edge is longer so it allows the net to open. My understanding is that this type of trawler would lower the net in shallow water and drag the net along the bottom.
I started with using wedding veil material for the net. Probably should have used a darker color but my choice was limited, so we have a โnewโ net. As the net would be scrunched up on the deck it made no sense to make it too long. The bottom end is just folded and the sides are hand stitched. Supporting lines were added to the top and bottom leading edges to โstrengthenโ the net as well as hold the floats and weights.
All the rigging is different with emphasis on making this look like a working boat. This includes numerous blocks and tackle. A few markers (floats, photo 7) are on the deck as they were commonly used. The three man crew (Tamiya 1/20 scale pit crew) seems to be handling everything well. The fish are a combination of plastic fish (photo 6) supplemented by some that I printed on my color printer and laminated with a little filler in-between to give the depth.
For anyone interested I have a 2015 "on board" video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxh6vW4SbOc .
Lew
LewZ
2 years ago
1 Post
1 Follower
5 Likes
Airbrush Cleaning Solution
I found an excellent and inexpensive airbrush cleaning solution (for acrylic paints). The link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7afdu2tgXA however here are the ingredients:
Distilled water - 3 parts
Window cleaner ("Windex" or equiv. with ammonia) - 2 parts
Isopropyl alcohol 91% - 1 part
Glycerin 1 drops for each 15ml of water
In my case I used a 60ml plastic jar as follows:
Filled with the water to 30ml
Added window cleaner to 50ml
Added alcohol to 60ml
Added 4 drops glycerin
Works great on slightly dried (several minutes) paint, much better than acrylic thinner. Will not remove time dried paint.
Lew
LewZ
2 years ago
1 Post
1 Follower
8 Likes
Mini Bar Clamps for Model Builders
I had a need for several sets of bar clamps with about 6 -6 inches capacity. The only ones I saw were too heavy or expensive so I designed a set with a few extra features and made a handful via one of my 3D printers.
I have the STL files on my site for FREE downloads as well as two YouTube videos, one an intro and the other a how to build. Here are the links:
Intro: http://lewsmodelboats.org/Mini-Bar-Clamp.htm
Make: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n91onP_e3M4
Downloads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrujDxf_a-4
I hope they are of use to others.
Lew
LewZ
2 years ago
1 Post
1 Follower
4 Likes
Working with ABS - Lengthening a Hull
The Dusseldorf (FLB 2) model fire boat kit was originally produced by Robbe and now sold under the name Krick. The kit is based on the original configuration as the fire boat was built in 1965. In 1979 (well over 40 years ago) the original Dusseldorf was significantly modified and one of the modifications was the hull being lengthened significantly. The increased length is about 200mm (8 inches) in the model's hull.
In order to increase the hull's length it had to be cut into two pieces (across the beam near the middle (lengthwise). In the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5_Hh1uIlG4) of this process you will see the steps I used to modify the ABS hull.
Additional help, information, and updates are posted on my web site: https://lewsmodelboats.org/M-Fire-Boat-Dusseldorf-2-Index.htm
This video may be helpful to others needing to modify ABS hulls as it deals with cementing and filling ABS including adhesion (weld type) with ABS 3D printed parts, and styrene, both extrusions and sheet.
LewZ
2 years ago
Recent Posts
๐ Heat Sinks
2 hours ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
Rear Admiral)
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First off, a photo or two usually helps in answering questions like this.
First I would look at possible reasons for overheating. Is the motor being driven too hard? (Big prop, free/stiff running shaft, u-joint binding...) Is this a high speed boat? Is the ESC overheating? Does it overheat fast or gradually? Give us more info.
Water cooling isn't too difficult and probably the most efficient.
Lew
Florida โฑ๏ธ, USA ๐บ๐ธ
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๐ Reasons for not Dieing!
1 day ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
Rear Admiral)
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Not to be picky, but I believe the correct spelling is dying. "Dieing", is sometimes used to describe shaping material. I guess that some of us model builders may use dieing in our work. Thanks to our English language we get these quirks now and then.
As for the meaning towards death, I completely agree with those that feel that a good hobby (like model boat building) is a healthy step toward longevity. At eighty (I hate to admit it) I've had to give up more physical hobbies. I enjoy building and running my model boats and armor (tanks, etc.), photography, 3D design and printing, video editing, web site work, mowing the lawn (takes a few days longer now), girl watching, and my wife just told me we need a new kitchen faucet (tomorrow's project after the model boat meet).
With all this, I try to get time in with the grandchildren. This afternoon the four month baby was teething and drooling on me.
Almost all my friends are gone, especially those I worked with, around my age, but most of them younger. Almost all that sat around me for many years are gone. I went to the service for a friend (9 years younger) last week. Hadn't seen him in years since I got out of the reenacting hobby. His wife told me he basically wasted away with boredom. Things like that seems to be common lately.
So here is a thought... All these hobby shops drying up and people going into boredom in their final years (Waiting for God?). Would you rather go in the middle of building a model or watching some old movie?
Lew
Florida ๐, โค๏ธUSA
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๐ re Tug hull paint
2 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
Rear Admiral)
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I wondered why I didn't have any barnacles in my stomach - Chilli Powder!
Lew
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๐ re Tug hull paint
2 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
Rear Admiral)
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Under-hull painting colors. There are a large variety of colors to choose from. Depends on fresh water versus salt water uses (brackish water tends to use salt water cover), but also subject to what is caused by marine growth including non-barnacle growth. Owner/builder influenced color as well.
I've seen totally black barges which have a mixture of other dark colors due to scraping damage often with contact with another barge of a different color, marine growth, etc. Most look pretty ugly.
It is better to rely on real photos of your subject and environment rather than any hard fast rules.
The only reliable under-hull common color seems to be for salt water is the red protective paint. There are a variety of spray cans close to this color, especially in primers which I use as a finished coat.
Lew
Florida โฑ๏ธ, USA ๐บ๐ธ
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๐ฌ Re: SSMBC (Seminole, Florida, USA) meet on Sept 1, 2024
6 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
Rear Admiral)
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Peejay, no barge for this one as it (real one) is a "stoplog" boat that operates at the Little Goose Dam on the Snake River out in Washington State (US). It is used to prevent logs and debris from entering the lock an intakes for the hydro-electric generators. The real one is owned by the US Army Corps of Engineers.
I'm thinking of making a bunch of logs for it to move around. Did you notice the crew man on the bow with a logging pole?
Lew
Florida โฑ๏ธ, USA ๐บ๐ธ
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๐ SSMBC (Seminole, Florida, USA) meet on Sept 1, 2024
7 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
Rear Admiral)
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A short "in the water" video take at our meet. (Other boats were present, but I only got in a few photos.) My last Springer build finally hit the water. Still kind of hot (~90F), waiting for fall to arrive.
Lew
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๐ Decals
9 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Wow! Put this amount of people together and we are bound to have a lot of ideas. But, that is what all this is about.
One more method... you might not have noticed it but on my last Springer tug build I have the simulated openings for the "water coolers" by painting them on (black paint).
After figuring out the pattern I 3D printed a mask. I then taped it on (both sides) and spray painted the pattern. Attached photo shows the mask and the finished pattern on the hull.
This could open up an entirely new way of applying artwork. Either make the mask or I assume it is possible to actually 3D print the artwork real thin then cement it to the model. May not work in every instance, but might be worth a thought.
Lew
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๐ Decals
10 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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I thought Callie was expensive based on a quote I got from them. However, their product would be much more durable for marking, especially if it was placed on the hull.
Decals have their place as well, especially surfaces that are irregular such as rivets or seams. There are softeners to help decals to conform to such shapes. The vinyl is thicker than the decal base.
I would not throw out my decal paper.
Lew
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๐ Decals
11 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Not too sure what Bombero meant, so I might be on the same track. Most of the decal paper is clear so you print the color on that and apply it to the model.
However, I also use white decal paper which allows me to print a decal with with white in it or even light colors (the color on a white background) because just printing a "light color" will not work on clear decal paper, especially if the model is dark.
As the entire sheet of white decal paper is solid white any background that needs to show through (the model) within the perimeter of the decal will need to be cut away or painted it after the decal sets.
Attached is an example. The star can be multiple pieces or one piece with the non white parts green (what Idid). However, it is very difficult to match the inkjet green segments within the star with the model finish. I must use paint and brush in those areas. Same with the numbers.
Lew
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๐ Filling gaps in decks
15 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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One other thing... there is some shrinkage with Tamiya's putty. Might be common with othe fillers as well, but Tamiya's shrinks about 20% (my guess). Best to overfill a bit or build up with several applications curing inbetween if it needs to be thick.
Lew
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๐ Filling gaps in decks
16 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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MEK is quite potent and a healt hazard. Safer choice is acetone which is safer (still be careful!). Acetone can be found in many store as nail polish remover (look for 100% acetone). Also low cost.
Work very well with styrene and ABS. I 3D print with ABS and cement it to styrene.
Acetone is very thin (much thinner than model cement) and can be applied various ways. I often use small brushes, tweezers, and even syringes.
Lew
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๐ฌ Re: Suncoast Scale Model Boat Club (Florida, USA) meet: Aug 18, 2024
16 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Peterd, I have been using the default settings on the camera. Supposed to be a fairly "simple" aka "point and shoot" but there are a lot of settings and I need to see what is best.
It is a new camera but has been around for a while. I bought it because of the ratings, price, and features like splash proof, dust proof, and a good zoom, 4K HD, all is essential for me in photographing model boats and tanks.
Lew
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๐ Springer #4 (part 8, trimming the model in water)
18 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Finally getting near the end! This video shows how I trimmed the model in water by adding ballast. The video also shows the final assembly (parts that are removable for repairy or maintenance).
https://youtu.be/AgGj79789YE?si=SsJdjTxafNDPMLIo |
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๐ Filling gaps in decks
18 days ago by
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I find that Tamiya putty works very well sticking (more like fusing) to styrene as well to fingers. Sands very well. I have been using this for many years.
Lew
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๐ Flywheels - gyros for stabilization
21 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Barry, I did see another Seakeeper video where it was used on a smaller (not a model) boat. It was quite effective.
The "bobbing and rolling" is not that noticeable to the observer unless one is specifically looking for it. However, it is quite noticeable in videos when recorded close up (or zoom in) or with an on board camera.
Lew
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๐ Flywheels - gyros for stabilization
21 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Roy, what I meant about "not spinning" was it rotated part way CW or CCW as a counterweight. The wheel looked like a ferris wheel on the deck with the axis running fore and aft. This could have been a simple weight transferring mechanism below the deck.
Lew
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๐ Flywheels - gyros for stabilization
21 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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I don't know if anyone of you have done this, but has any given thought or installed a gyro or flywheel for stabilization in a scale RC boat?
I ask this because I accidentally came across a YouTube video of a model aircraft carrier (~ 4-5 feet long) that the owner installed a large stabilization wheel on the deck to counter roll. This wheel in effect shifted weight port and starboard, but not by continuous spinning. It worked.
This could have been simpler and below deck, but I'd did spark some interesting thoughts on reducing boats "bobbing" about.
I searched and found another YouTube video with a model boat hull about 30 inches long with a small gyro in it. I was amazed on how much it stabilized the boat.
Any thoughts?
Lew
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๐ re Tug hull paint
21 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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What I would do is base the color scheme to be the same as the real tug being modeled. If no data on that particular tug canโธ be found then you might look at similar tugs associated with the subject. That could be those in the same company, region, country.
Lew
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๐ฌ Re: Suncoast Scale Model Boat Club (Florida, USA) meet: Aug 18, 2024
23 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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IanL1, thanks for the comment. First time using this camera. Working on ways to improve my stabilizing the video. I try to zoom in as much as possible and keep the model close to full frame.
For those that are interested, in my video app (on my PC), which is what I use to create the video, I slowed down the tug to about 80%. This gives the model a more realistic look. What do think?
Lew
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๐ฌ Re: Suncoast Scale Model Boat Club (Florida, USA) meet: Aug 18, 2024
24 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Thanks Len1. I believe the tug is the Dumas "Brooklyn". Runs great!
Those boats were about 60 feet away. Great to get back to a camera with a nice zoom to bring the model closer.
Lew
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๐ Suncoast Scale Model Boat Club (Florida, USA) meet: Aug 18, 2024
24 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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We had a small meet but being I recently got a new camera I was able to test it out with a few photos and videos. The video is short at about 3 minutes.
(The sternwheeler is a work in progress and will be static model. It is a Chaperon kit modified to look like an operating sternwheeler here in Florida.)
Lew
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๐ Modello RC scala 1/60, di piroscafo armato a goletta, liberamente ispirato alle cannoniere classe US
27 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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WTF? You cut and paste my text and placed in your post๐. Can't you be original?
Lew
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๐ World class modeller
27 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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EdW, l didn't think I was offending you or those that want to build "museum quality" models. I know several people that I will never attain their level of quality.
That being said, like many others, I hope to do my best. It seems there are a massive quantity of postings on this forum involve electronics, motors, linkages, mechanisms and such.
There is room for all of us on model-boats.com to show our builds as well as "how-to's".
Lew
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๐ World class modeller
28 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Is there a distinction in model boat builds? I ask this because I have been to a number of museums that have "world class" models and my interest in building "operational scale model boats".
Putting loads of photos of museum models on this site is redundant as there are many thousands of photos of these on the internet.
To me, the "I built this" tag is more important that the "museum models". I would occasionally rather see some photos of some real boats taken by members where "those little details" stand out.
Physically, there is a big difference because the need to be operational the requirements a often substantially different. Weather, and frequent handling versus models commonly placed in glass cases is significantly different.
A big "thumbs up" ๐๐๐ to those that have created realistic looking high quality "operational scale model boats". Museum boats are interesting, but the ones that hit the water are the boats I appreciate viewing the most, especially when showing the running gear. I also enjoy the videos (and in the water stills) that are close up. To me, photography of the models are an important way to view the model from afar (like we do on this forum). I usually skip videos and stills of a boat that appears as a small portion of the overall frame and those that have low resolution ("pixels").
Lew
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๐ฌ Re: Yard Sale Find
30 days ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Also... as you can see in the photo, the prop shaft is horizontal and sits about 2 inches (50mm) below the waterline. No leaks if you make the stuffing box long enough and use the right sealant lube.
Lew
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๐ฌ Re: Yard Sale Find
1 month ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Chum444, is your "stuffing box" the size of the large diameter tube under the large filler and the rest of the shaft slips into the shaft tube? If so, the sealing area seems kind of small.
My preference is to have a fairly large sealing area. For example, using the attached drawing, the two ends where the shaft slip fits into are each about 5/8 inch long leaving a long void between the shaft OD and the tube's ID. [EDITED: this area is filled with the sealant lube.] Thus I have no problem with leakage when the entire shaft is below the waterline.
Lew
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๐ propshafts lubrications
1 month ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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I just happen to have one of my boats opened right behind me so I took a photo of the "oiling tube". (I usually make my own prop shafts and tubes.)
The easiest way (with copper/brass tubing) is to drill a hole in the tube where the fill chamber is, and solder a short fill tube to it. I also make a cap to protect the lube from contamination.
As for the lube, I have used various type of greases and heavy oils. I found the best (and environmentally safe) way is to use petroleum jelly. Safe enough for skin wounds and gooey enough to work well in the stuffing box).
Lew
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๐ Members?
1 month ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Every once in a while I check the members listing. I thought that with so many people moving to Florida some might not know about the SSMBC. So it is a big help when searching the members list inactive "members" are purged.
I just picked 3 or 4 random names in the US that were recruits (0 points). It seems that there are those that registered a while back and might have checked the site once or twice but didn't go beyond that.
Lew
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๐ Web site
1 month ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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I tend not to purchase from sites when their location is hidden. Looks like the might be in the USA, but not too sure. No phone number or address, only email.
This has been identified as a "suspicious site" due to the way it was set up.
However, they do take PayPal which might be the way to go if you find something there you like. My opinion.
Lew
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๐ฌ Re: SSMBC (Florida) model boat meet on July 21, 2024
1 month ago by
๐บ๐ธ LewZ (
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Brian, there are a few photos scattered on the SSMBC web site. Two are on this page (link).
http://ssmbc-fl.org/SSMBC-Photos-Members-Gallery.htm |
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