5 Posts
6 Followers
27 Likes
Converting a toy semi tractor trailer into a decent RC model Unit
Another RC hobby? I'm already into RC scale model boats (since the early 1970's) and RC armor (since 2015) I am branching out to RC scale vehicles (but not too many). Notice the word scale in each of these three segments of RC hobbies.
This topic is for a RC semi tractor and lowboy trailer being converted from an inexpensive toy. It is already in 1/16 scale and should be compatible with my Springer ("truckable") tugs and Armor (tanks, etc.). I plan to use it at both Model Boat and Armor meets.
This first segment involves the selections I have made and my plan to make the necessary modifications to the toy.
I bought two ERTL about three years ago with the intent to convert them into RC. I paid about $70 (US) for the pair of them on sale. They are currently in the $70-80 range (each). They look good enough to use although not to exact scale. The project goal is to keep the cost down and have a fun functional vehicle.
Why buy two units? When done, I will be using parts from the second vehicle for the first, like wheels for extra axles and other parts.
Right now I am working on the semi-tractor. The new unit will have another axle, this one to lift by RC. It will also have the extra sleeper cabin and other accessories. I am planning to make the "gooseneck" (the part that connects to the trailer) RC controlled. Unfortunately the model's lowboy trailer suffers problems like the real trailers do. Too close to the ground. I will need to elevate the trailer sufficiently so it will not get stuck. I do not have to contend with railroad tracks which makes the vehicles good targets for fast moving trains.
The latest:
This evening I am cementing the chassis frame together. I had to print it in five pieces due to the limitations of my 3D printer. There will be rectangular steel tubing epoxied inside the frame for extra strength.
Lew
LewZ
2 days ago
1 Post
2 Followers
6 Likes
Modifying a Posable (jointed) Figure to Loo Realistic
I just posted a video on how to modify a Bruder figure to look more realistic on YouTube. This also can apply to other figures that have flexible joints as well. The YouTube link is below.
Lew
Florida , USA๏ธ
https://youtu.be/TvrWWmZOI-U
LewZ
2 years ago
2 Posts
6 Followers
23 Likes
Automatic Bilge Pump for RC Boats
I just finished putting together a circuit, testing it and creating a video for an automatic bilge pump. This circuit can also be used to trigger a warning light or noise/sound.
Easy to build and inexpensive. The video shows the pump working. Enjoy!
Lew
Florida ๏ธ, USA
https://youtu.be/l32YRTsu4Ho
LewZ
2 years ago
2 Posts
8 Followers
29 Likes
Display Case for Model Boats
I thought you fellow model boaters might be interested in how I built a case for my Wiesel "Schnellboot". It certainly keeps the dust off. I have posted this on a build blog, hopefully it will be easy to find in the future.
First, the Wiesel model is 42 inches long by 7 inches wide X 16 inches high. In designing the case I wanted a clear unobstructed side view of the model which demands a single large pane. Therefore the model has to be removed via a side panel, and in this case I decided to make both ends to open. I also wanted clear top to allow light in.
Rather than use expensive wood, I opted for widely available lumber (white wood) which I would stain to a Walnut color. I used "1 by XX" lumber which is about 3/4 inch thick. This case is symmetrical (except for the doors swing) so it could be set in the middle of a room and viewed all around.
The base is 3/4" X 12" X 54". The other pieces are 3/4" X 1 inch by various lengths. The model sits on a removable base and stand stained to the same Walnut color.
I found one of the local plastics distributors sells 4 ft X 8 ft plexiglass sheets about .100 inch thick. for a small extra charge (by the cut) they have an accurate and quick saw that did a great job. I made the drawing (attached) for the cuts and a few days later picked up the panels.
Found some nice brass latches and hinges for the end doors in a local store.
The wood is cut to the needed sizes. Using my table saw I made the grooves for the panels to slide into. My sawblade was slightly wider that the thickness of the panels.
Note that I did not glue the panels in place. Everything held pretty good. When moving the case take the model out to avoid breaking the joints. I also added some corner bracings in the top to side corners (see photo).
Steps:
1 - Determine the size and make drawings for the wood and plexiglass.
2 - Obtain materials
3 - Cut the wood pieces.
4 - Stain the wood pieces except for where they are glued to make strong joints.
5 - Assemble sliding the panes into the grooves. Glue joint. I used a pneumatic nail gun to make the joints stronger as well as making the assembly faster.
6 - Varnish the finish, masking off the panes. (Do some thinking ahead on some of the pieces on the inside of the case before assembly.)
7 - Enjoy your model in its new home.
I also made a matching box for the fluorescent tube lights (they didn't have good LED strips back when I built this) that sits on top of the case. Good lighting is recommended.
Photos:
01 - Full side.
02 - Corner view.
03 - Door latch.
04 - Internal corner brace (1 of 4).
05 - Slightly different corner view with model slid out slightly.
06 - Top of case.
07 - Top of case (light on).
08 - Full side (light on).
09 - Display case drawing.
10 - Layout drawing for cutting panes.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Lew
Florida , USA
LewZ
2 years ago
1 Post
2 Followers
9 Likes
Modular Barge - Model Construction
With the great responses to my recent posting on my "Modular Barge" I would like to share my construction information. The instructions are in the PDF. I have attached the photos here as well to they can be zoomed in on.
Any questions, feel free to ask!
Lew
Florida ๏ธ, USA
LewZ
2 years ago
2 Posts
3 Followers
14 Likes
Springer #1 - Making an elevating pilot house
I thought I would put together a video on this title. It follows the concept of making something travel a linear distance with limit stops on both ends. The belt and pulleys are from an old HP inkjet printer. (Lots of usable parts in these discarded printers.) This Springer is based on a real boat using four photographs. Enjoy!
Lew
Florida, USA
https://youtu.be/ny1ukVCP4Gc?si=VifrtoZ9wqx6hixZ
LewZ
2 years ago
4 Posts
5 Followers
15 Likes
Atlantic "Tug" [sic] Restoration
Hi all...
A while back I was given two Atlantic "Tugs" (by separate people). One was in very good condition (but with the old FM radio) which I passed on to another member and the other is the subject for this post.
These Atlantic "tugs" [sic] have a very toy like design, especially the hull's gunwale (curve) when viewed from the side. That being said, I would like to restore it, probably to another type boat as I don't want to start cutting the gunwale. to flatten it some.
Now the condition of everything is fair and the hull is pretty solid. (The hole in the bow area is a chop job done by the previous owner to install a bow thruster.) Everything is dirty bun ca be cleaned up. It is missing the wheelhouse. I would like to re-use (modify?) the superstructure.
So, here's where all of you come in. Given the shape of the hull and structure, do any of you have any ideas what this could be made into based on a real boat's looks? (If there are any real tugs in the style/looks, could you pass that info on to me?)
Thanks,
Lew
LewZ
3 years ago
1 Post
4 Followers
18 Likes
Beam Trawler Build (single drag net)
I have been asked by Mike (on this forum) on how I made the fish net for my trawler, so I decided to enter this in a build blog for anyone else to view.
Building a trawler was not one of my priorities in building RC scale model boats. However I came across a deal I could not pass up and this partially built boat (33-inch long Artesania Latina โHelenโ) was part of the package. Despite the tall masts and netting, this is a very good sailing boat, forward and backward.
I renamed the boat โElenaโ with โH-103โ as the registry number simulating that it would be out of Hull Harbor, U.K.
When I decided to continue the build (after some de-construction) from the deck up, I also looked into similar real boats off the east coast of the U.K. I downloaded photos and information on how these drag trawlers operated and the type of nets and equipment on board. (I am not a commercial fisherman so Iโm sure someone will correct me here.)
It looked like this type of trawler is called a โbeam trawlerโ where the boom holds the horizontal โbeamโ that spreads the net apart. The net is open on the front end with the top edge strung with floats (here, beads) and the bottom edge with weights (here small fishing line sinkers). The top edge is pretty much aligned with the beam and the bottom edge is longer so it allows the net to open. My understanding is that this type of trawler would lower the net in shallow water and drag the net along the bottom.
I started with using wedding veil material for the net. Probably should have used a darker color but my choice was limited, so we have a โnewโ net. As the net would be scrunched up on the deck it made no sense to make it too long. The bottom end is just folded and the sides are hand stitched. Supporting lines were added to the top and bottom leading edges to โstrengthenโ the net as well as hold the floats and weights.
All the rigging is different with emphasis on making this look like a working boat. This includes numerous blocks and tackle. A few markers (floats, photo 7) are on the deck as they were commonly used. The three man crew (Tamiya 1/20 scale pit crew) seems to be handling everything well. The fish are a combination of plastic fish (photo 6) supplemented by some that I printed on my color printer and laminated with a little filler in-between to give the depth.
For anyone interested I have a 2015 "on board" video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxh6vW4SbOc .
Lew
LewZ
3 years ago
1 Post
1 Follower
5 Likes
Airbrush Cleaning Solution
I found an excellent and inexpensive airbrush cleaning solution (for acrylic paints). The link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7afdu2tgXA however here are the ingredients:
Distilled water - 3 parts
Window cleaner ("Windex" or equiv. with ammonia) - 2 parts
Isopropyl alcohol 91% - 1 part
Glycerin 1 drops for each 15ml of water
In my case I used a 60ml plastic jar as follows:
Filled with the water to 30ml
Added window cleaner to 50ml
Added alcohol to 60ml
Added 4 drops glycerin
Works great on slightly dried (several minutes) paint, much better than acrylic thinner. Will not remove time dried paint.
Lew
LewZ
3 years ago
1 Post
1 Follower
8 Likes
Mini Bar Clamps for Model Builders
I had a need for several sets of bar clamps with about 6 -6 inches capacity. The only ones I saw were too heavy or expensive so I designed a set with a few extra features and made a handful via one of my 3D printers.
I have the STL files on my site for FREE downloads as well as two YouTube videos, one an intro and the other a how to build. Here are the links:
Intro: http://lewsmodelboats.org/Mini-Bar-Clamp.htm
Make: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n91onP_e3M4
Downloads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrujDxf_a-4
I hope they are of use to others.
Lew
LewZ
3 years ago
1 Post
1 Follower
4 Likes
Working with ABS - Lengthening a Hull
The Dusseldorf (FLB 2) model fire boat kit was originally produced by Robbe and now sold under the name Krick. The kit is based on the original configuration as the fire boat was built in 1965. In 1979 (well over 40 years ago) the original Dusseldorf was significantly modified and one of the modifications was the hull being lengthened significantly. The increased length is about 200mm (8 inches) in the model's hull.
In order to increase the hull's length it had to be cut into two pieces (across the beam near the middle (lengthwise). In the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5_Hh1uIlG4) of this process you will see the steps I used to modify the ABS hull.
Additional help, information, and updates are posted on my web site: https://lewsmodelboats.org/M-Fire-Boat-Dusseldorf-2-Index.htm
This video may be helpful to others needing to modify ABS hulls as it deals with cementing and filling ABS including adhesion (weld type) with ABS 3D printed parts, and styrene, both extrusions and sheet.
LewZ
4 years ago