DaveB, I called it a "Dumpster Joker" (which I might name it) because of the condition it is in. Probably make it a dirty, well used tug, lots of rust and weathering just for fun. I was going to "Americanize" to a NYC tug it but the hull lines are not right and would take too much time.
I was looking at your harbor and you have a nice selection of boats. My 47 ft USCG MLB barely made it back (being pushed) to the dock. Only about 3 inches of the nose above water. Do you ever get water in yours?
Lew

You got a "Shelf Queen" and I got a "Dumpster Joker." This Atlantic tug has seen better days! Why would anyone put a bow thruster in this? I'm thinking of making this a true fireboat, one that actually smokes and has [artificial] flames so my Krick Dusseldorf FLB 2 has something to spray water on (if I ever finish the major rebuild).

Recently I have been getting a lot of boats that other people either have given up on or no longer interested in. Before the Dusseldorf there was the USCG 47 ft MLB, before that another Atlantic tug (in good condition) which I passed on to my son, and a sailboat. Some boats I had to pass on. Today I got an email about someone wanting to get rid of a Graupner rowboat #2152, partially built.

Looks like I will never get back to building the Arne Christiansen towboat with Graupner Z-drives.

Lew

I had a need for several sets of bar clamps with about 6 -6 inches capacity. The only ones I saw were too heavy or expensive so I designed a set with a few extra features and made a handful via one of my 3D printers.

I have the STL files on my site for FREE downloads as well as two YouTube videos, one an intro and the other a how to build. Here are the links:
Intro: http://lewsmodelboats.org/Mini-Bar-Clamp.htm
Make: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n91onP_e3M4
Downloads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrujDxf_a-4

I hope they are of use to others.

Lew

http://lewsmodelboats.org/Mini-Bar-Clamp.htm

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Pete, about the Wiesel's crew...

(Sorry I did not answer this quickly, must have missed your post.)

The Graupner Wiesel is 1/40 scale so 1/35 scale figures are close, but slightly oversized. By making two horizontal saw-cuts, one a the waist and the other at the knees, the height is reduced to a good size for the model. I have info on the particular 1/35 scale figure kits on my web site at http://lewsmodelboats.org/M-scale-figures.htm and kept the uniforms simple with a dark blue top, white trousers, and a flat cap (except for the gunners and officers).

Everyone who has built this model completely missed the design of the bridge. It was hard to find what it really looked like and I have posted photos on my web site (http://lewsmodelboats.org/Schnellboot.htm) of that as well. If you need more info check there and let me know if I can be of assistance. I have tried to make these pages as the most comprehensive information on the Zobel type 143A boats as possible.

Lew

http://lewsmodelboats.org/M-scale-figures.htm

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http://lewsmodelboats.org/Schnellboot.htm)

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Made it through the hurricane OK, "Ian" shifted direction to the east so we missed the worst part that was predicted to hit us. However we are now out of power.
Thanks for the good thoughts!
Lew

Got the boats (and everything else) packed up. Ian is heading right for us with winds now at 105mph and getting worse. It's a humdinger, about 500 miles wide. People are panicking, store shelves are empty. Hope we can weather this one.
Lew

Good job! Lot of Calypsos out there, this is the first I have seen converted back.👍

I have been using the 1060 brushed ESCs on all sorts of batteries for several years now. I have about 10 of them and they all work very well.

I have two Mtronics on one burned out (yeah, fire and smoke on the water). The Mtroniks has a slight advantage being it will run the motor with the prop barely moving to to point where the boat does not even move. The 1060 has a great slow speed where one can still watch the prop turn.

To me the 1060 has a big price advantage, last time I looked it was almost half the price (here in the U.S.) of the Mtroniks and that was comparing a 1060 60A versus a Mtroniks 20A.

I'm completely sold on the Quickrun 1060's.

Lew

I believe the spelling is "Calypso." Nevertheless, a fine looking model!👍

For some reason I forgot about modifying my Graupner Wiesel schnellboot almost 15 years ago. I built it according to the plans but then found out the the boat had four shafts and two rudders (see photos). I removed most of the aft bottom with a hole big enough to easily slide one's foot through, sealing it with styrene and a lot of JB Weld.

For the past few years I have been buying the JB Weld in the large tubes five ounces each (pack of two for mixing). Quite a bit cheaper! That is what I plan on using for the current project.

Lew

Very nice looking and well detailed! What scale is this fire boat?
Lew

Thanks' for the replies! Looks like Bondo might be the way to go. Anyone tried Bondo Glazing and Spot putty? It is supposed to work on plastic, mainly bumpers.
Lew

Anyone experienced with using a filler to use on styrene? This is for a model boat hull exterior. I'm not talking about the small tubes (would need too many) but for larger areas and thickness (up to about .10 inch / 2.5mm). Need something that is strong and adheres well.
Lew

My "Scale Model Boats" (and tanks... and more) web site is http://lewsmodelboats.org
It goes into a lot of detail on my model boats, tanks, R/C, 3D modeling, 3D parts, tips, and beyond, including many photos and links to videos.
Along the same line, I have YouTube channel "eymccauley" (American Civil War naval officer) link: https://www.youtube.com/c/eymccauley/videos where you can find videos of scale model boats, tanks, club meets here in Florida U.AS.A.) and more.

http://lewsmodelboats.org

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https://www.youtube.com/c/eymccauley/videos

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In the U.S. - http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/libertyship.htm
(1/16" = 1' scale, 27-1/" long, $390 US).

http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/libertyship.htm

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As weird as it sounds I just can't seem to see a model boat go in the trash. In this case, you can see the derelict model in the first two photos. It's not very fast and has a low freeboard.

I decided to have some fun with this one - the photos are evident as to what I did. (1/12 scale.)

Lew

Bassman,

My work stand is a little different. I originally built it for racing sail boats (which I no longer do) but it works for just about all my boats. It is the right height so working on the boat is easy. It can be used at home, outside, and folds flat for transportation and will support up to 100 pounds.

Materials are easy to find. I used 1 X 2 clear lumber, webbing from tie-down straps, and ¼-20 bolts, flat washers, and wing nuts. It is glued with carpenter’s wood glue (waterproof after drying), some wood screws, and finished with spar varnish.

The legs are 36-5/8” long and the width of the outer set in 18” with the inner pair fitting between the outer pair. The webbing is about 18” long across the top plus allowance for going down the out side of the top cross piece (about 20-1/2” total length). The axis bolt is located 23-1/8” from the bottom of the legs to give it a slightly wider spread for some stability. Use a soldering iron or hot nail to melt/pierce the webbing and use two screws per each end.

When you set it up with the webbing taunt, and then sit the boat on the webbing, the weight of the boat will push down so a rounded bilge boat will sit even. Just a little caution: This is not as stable as a table so be careful if people will be around it or if the wind is heavy.

Lew

Roy,
I was looking for something else and came across these taken photos of my Korts and rudders about 10 - 11 years ago.
Lew

Added:
The rudders are actually about 3/4 inch wider. The boat suffered cavitation in reverse as the Korts/props were too close to the transom. So I added 3/4" to the transom as well as the rudders.

That should be "towboatjoe" - link: https://towboatjoe.tripod.com/
(I believe Joe passed on a few years ago but his site is still up as of now).
Lew

https://towboatjoe.tripod.com/

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I just did a search on "towboat" and a few posts came up including yours. First off, I recently saw the real "American Beauty" going through Mississippi Lock 19 on YouTube live streaming. I know several who have built the model including one scratch build using the Dumas drawings.

Don't know if this is too late: As for the rudders, each of the two drives (fixed Kort nozzles) has two barn door rudders aft of the props, one each. Forward of the props there are two flanking rudders per shaft, one on each side. They are fairly close to the shafts but far enough to turn, and they really work well on the model.

I scratch built a towboat (no specific real boat, it is 1/35 scale and about 28 inches long) with flanking rudders (check out my harbor for photos: https://model-boats.com/harbour/110651). Actually they are all connected together to one servo (unlike the real boats).

The photo is superimposed with indicators to show the parts and movements (for a right turn). Note that the flanking rudders turn in the opposite direction of the main rudders. Check out this video to see how well this towboat turns: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSUH3PX5QMY

B.T.W., any updates on this build?

Lew

harbour/110651).

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Hi, I started building the Anfora tug "Duna" (actually the "Frederic Mistral") several years ago but stopped when I could not get the drag chain for the steering strong enough. Seems the all the pulleys along the deck caused too much drag. How does yours work? Any photos?
Lew

Information uploaded to My Harbor on U.S. Ironclads. Lew

Disclosure: First off, these are not my models, but that of the "Old Navy" Steve Lund and Bill Hathaway.

I had the pleasure of meeting them in 2007 at the Monitor Center at the Mariners' Museum in Virginia, U.S.A. At that time I was involved in Civil War reenacting (role as a U.S. navy officer) and we were all participating at a special event. The "Old Navy" guys brought a trailer loaded with 1/35 scale R/C ironclad models.

I am putting together this information in case others are interested in building a Civil War ironclad, and need more information. I thought I had more still photos of the models but these are all I found. The video shows many of the models.

[Sure, the U.S was not the first country to have an ironclad but did have the first battle between the in March 1862. Between the north and the south about 66 ironclads were completed during these four years. Some quite simple and others quite out of the norm. If you want to build a U.S. ironclad check them out - the variety is amazing.]

The first photo is the full scale replica (hollow) of the U.S.S. Monitor located behind the museum.

The second photo is that of Steve (right) and Bill (left), middle person is unknown. They are standing in front of an accurate reproduction of the Monitor at 1/35 scale. It an R/C - powered model.

The remaining photos are close-ups of the Monitor model.

So here is my video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMnEmFW0XPk The video is a bit old but I think you get the idea.

Steve and Bill made an excellent book, 'Modeling the Ironclads" which is available at: https://thenrgstore.org/products/modeling-the-ironclads .
However you can preview it or print this out yourself you can download it at: https://walternelson.com/ironclads.pdf

ps. I was going to build a 1/35 scale Monitor but got side tracked while searching for a way to make thick, black smoke which I could not find and this project eventually gave way to building other models.

https://thenrgstore.org/products/modeling-the-ironclads

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https://walternelson.com/ironclads.pdf

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I'll gather the information and most likely put them in "My Harbor" with a disclaimer that I did not build them. I'll add info on sources of information in case people are interested in building one (or more). May take a few days.

Lew

I searched the site and I didn't see anything on U.S. Civil War era ironclads. I have some photos and links to videos on well made 1/35 scale R/C models in case anyone is interested and can upload them.
Lew

If it comes to the point where you can't find any information and you need to move forward, take pencil to paper and layout everything. (Pardon my rough sketching.)

Locate the rudder on you side view of the hull and place the propeller forward of that leaving a gap. The prop shaft should be centered on the prop hub and would run back into the boat. Often the motor and mounting bracket height off the bottom inside of the hull will determine the angle of the shaft (like in the sketch). You don't have to put the motor far forward to keep the shaft horizontal unless the hull is a strange shape, ... and that is one unknown to us who are responding. Like one of the other responders mentioned, we need more information 🙄(photos?).

Once you get this right on paper then you can locate the sweet spot on the hull. This takes some work especially if you are drilling into a sloped surface. Perhaps not a drill but a Dremel type tool and fill in the gap with epoxy (or?). Don't forget some other shaft support either on the inside or outside or make the part of the hull extra thick where the shaft goes through it.

B.T.W., I use Vaseline for my prop shafts, more environmentally friendly⛵, works, and it lasts a long time.

Plenty of photos and information on R/C scale models, (boats, tanks, accessories, and more) are on this site. From how-too-s to 3D printing for models, including free downloads of drawings, information, and files. All non-commercial.

Http://LewsModelBoats.org

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No, I'm not going to do anything more with the tug other than leave it on the Shelf. The hull is not exactly really even, at least to my standards today. Just too much work and I have a lineup of boats that I'm working on. Thanks for asking and the comments!

Lew

Well, we all started somewhere!

My first model boat (not including inexpensive model kits as a kid) was the Sterling kit, "Emma C. Berry." I had planned to R/C it including glassing the hull, but never got that far. So jumping forward to the next model I scaled up that little Standard oil tug kit "Despatch No. 9".

I scaled it up to be 42 inches long and about 35 pounds in weight. Made mostly out of planked balsa with fiberglass covered hull it was not well done with many imperfections but from 10 feet away it looked good.

Back then (early 1970's) there was not too many components available for large R/C scale models especially here in Florida, the "boonies" back then. I used a automobile heater motor for the drive and a servo driven three position switch for the speeds (low, medium, high) with power resistors. Another servo driven switch for forward, stop, and reverse. The radio was a four channel Heathkit that I had to build up. Power came from a 6V motorcycle battery.

I enjoyed this boat for a few years. I bought the Graupner Schnellboot "Wiesel" in London in 1975, started it, but it took another 35 years before I finished it. Is that a record?

Now the old tug sits up high on a shelf where it gets little notice. It reminds me to think about how the finished boat should not look. (Even the "S" on one side of the stack is up-side-down.) To make matters worse, I added some expanding foam 😮 under the deck for floatation - oops, needless to say I got more camber to the deck that I really wanted.

Lew

Great Build👍!

I remember many years ago I had a magazine with an article (plus page sized plans) on this boat. Thought about building that a number of times after the kids moved out, but never did so.

Not long ago word went out about a competition quality built Bunker Boat model looking for a new home - a freebie! The RC Sub Guy picked it up immediately. (One of our club members missed getting it by only a few hours.) If you want to see his video of it you can find it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVtKUlGQZJU

What luck.

Anyway, keep sharing photo of the build. Lew