Episode: Introduction This is series of episodes will be about the features and updates of the SSMBC (Tampa Bay Area, Florida) Portable Dock System (PDS) I will post information on the original design and build of the PDS as well as requirements of have a PDS for the SSMBC. First is why. Operating (R/C) model boats are fun to build and run. But take that to the next level. How do we improve that? We have a pond, OK? We have a floating dock for launching and retrieval; Nice. Every once and a while we have a few buoys (markers); Getting a little better. Now comes docks! Wow, how many of you "captains" out there would like to maneuver through a docking system? I know I like it. (Think it we ignite some of our casual members to come or entice new members to join?) In March of 2014 I built most of the PDS with my son's help. There we no videos or even instructions on how to build a PDS back then. Only a few photos and videos that showed little to no detail on they were built. It was fun to operate the boats but what a headache to setup for our two hour meets. Trudging through thick mud on the ponds bottom was very difficult. Trying to flat the sections out and attach them together while leaning over the docks edge was still an issue. ("No swimming".) Thought: Why not assemble them on land gradually pushing them into the pond? How about a better way to attach them to the shore? I already made them stackable to ease storage and transport. And that folks is where I am today. Most of the thinking was done. Now I am in the update phase. For two days (I'm 81, not as fast as I used to be) I have been not only updating the PDS but doing some badly need maintenance and strengthening. The photos I am posting now are the original build of the PDS. They are simplistic, no additional details. (Some details may be added later.) You can see that the sections can be positioned for a variety of configurations. In upcoming episodes I will add more information and photos. so others can see what we have done. Nothing hidden, all information. And, of course, suggestions are welcomed. Lew SSMBC event coordinator

Finally tired of using my launcher (PVC pipe and fittings) and had SSMBC member build me a special one. (He has made a bunch of his version.) I am taller than him and have some back issues so I got one about 5 inches taller. The photo here shows it as I got it today at the meet. Need to prep and paint and add padding. It is made using 1/2 and 3/4" EMT steel and can handle at least 80 pounds. Lew Florida , USA

I just posted a video on how to modify a Bruder figure to look more realistic on YouTube. This also can apply to other figures that have flexible joints as well. The YouTube link is below. Lew Florida , USA️ https://youtu.be/TvrWWmZOI-U

This is a model I built several years ago. Someone gave me an old wood hull which I turned into an experimental boat, and wound up being a Star Wars Storm Trooper patrol boat. I generally don't do many "funny" boats and try to keep everything to scale. I believe this is a good example of making a comical boat to scale (no stuffed animals, etc.). It never performed well as it was small and the six "C" cell battery pack weighted the boat down giving very little freeboard (about 3/8 inch) and a slow speed. I decided to replace the 3000MAH 7.2V Nimh battery with a 2S Li-ion 3500MAH &.4V battery. Last Sunday I took it to the SSMBC meet and it went very well but after 50 feet it died. (It was the motor.) So that is now replace and it will be over two weeks to the next meet. So, in the mean time I took some photos of the fix-up and "innards". In particular you can see the adapter I made to fit the 2S battery where the hobby battery sat. It is 3D printed. I placed the file on "Thingiverse" (link below) in case anyone else is interested. I plan to get some videos at the next meet. Lew Florida , USA https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=7.2V+Hobby+Battery+adapter+for+2S+Li-ion+&page=1

I just finished putting together a circuit, testing it and creating a video for an automatic bilge pump. This circuit can also be used to trigger a warning light or noise/sound. Easy to build and inexpensive. The video shows the pump working. Enjoy! Lew Florida ️, USA https://youtu.be/l32YRTsu4Ho

I thought you fellow model boaters might be interested in how I built a case for my Wiesel "Schnellboot". It certainly keeps the dust off. I have posted this on a build blog, hopefully it will be easy to find in the future. First, the Wiesel model is 42 inches long by 7 inches wide X 16 inches high. In designing the case I wanted a clear unobstructed side view of the model which demands a single large pane. Therefore the model has to be removed via a side panel, and in this case I decided to make both ends to open. I also wanted clear top to allow light in. Rather than use expensive wood, I opted for widely available lumber (white wood) which I would stain to a Walnut color. I used "1 by XX" lumber which is about 3/4 inch thick. This case is symmetrical (except for the doors swing) so it could be set in the middle of a room and viewed all around. The base is 3/4" X 12" X 54". The other pieces are 3/4" X 1 inch by various lengths. The model sits on a removable base and stand stained to the same Walnut color. I found one of the local plastics distributors sells 4 ft X 8 ft plexiglass sheets about .100 inch thick. for a small extra charge (by the cut) they have an accurate and quick saw that did a great job. I made the drawing (attached) for the cuts and a few days later picked up the panels. Found some nice brass latches and hinges for the end doors in a local store. The wood is cut to the needed sizes. Using my table saw I made the grooves for the panels to slide into. My sawblade was slightly wider that the thickness of the panels. Note that I did not glue the panels in place. Everything held pretty good. When moving the case take the model out to avoid breaking the joints. I also added some corner bracings in the top to side corners (see photo). Steps: 1 - Determine the size and make drawings for the wood and plexiglass. 2 - Obtain materials 3 - Cut the wood pieces. 4 - Stain the wood pieces except for where they are glued to make strong joints. 5 - Assemble sliding the panes into the grooves. Glue joint. I used a pneumatic nail gun to make the joints stronger as well as making the assembly faster. 6 - Varnish the finish, masking off the panes. (Do some thinking ahead on some of the pieces on the inside of the case before assembly.) 7 - Enjoy your model in its new home. I also made a matching box for the fluorescent tube lights (they didn't have good LED strips back when I built this) that sits on top of the case. Good lighting is recommended. Photos: 01 - Full side. 02 - Corner view. 03 - Door latch. 04 - Internal corner brace (1 of 4). 05 - Slightly different corner view with model slid out slightly. 06 - Top of case. 07 - Top of case (light on). 08 - Full side (light on). 09 - Display case drawing. 10 - Layout drawing for cutting panes. Let me know if you have any questions. Lew Florida , USA

With the great responses to my recent posting on my "Modular Barge" I would like to share my construction information. The instructions are in the PDF. I have attached the photos here as well to they can be zoomed in on. Any questions, feel free to ask! Lew Florida ️, USA

I thought I would put together a video on this title. It follows the concept of making something travel a linear distance with limit stops on both ends. The belt and pulleys are from an old HP inkjet printer. (Lots of usable parts in these discarded printers.) This Springer is based on a real boat using four photographs. Enjoy! Lew Florida, USA https://youtu.be/ny1ukVCP4Gc?si=VifrtoZ9wqx6hixZ

Many of us have seen or heard of the "Springer" push boat (a.k.a., tug, truckable boat, etc.). Most of them are not scale models but still built to the enjoyment of the owner. This blog deals with how I build "Springers" to look like a scale model of some real boats. I will deal with some of the issues as well as ideas for searching for you own "scale model Springer". Follow this blog as I build my latest "Springer", a US Army Corps of Engineers truckable push boat working at the Little Goose Dam in Washington State where it moves river debris to the "stoplog" gates. Lew Florida, USA Here is the introduction video: https://youtu.be/bZZJOWAsU0Y

Hi all... A while back I was given two Atlantic "Tugs" (by separate people). One was in very good condition (but with the old FM radio) which I passed on to another member and the other is the subject for this post. These Atlantic "tugs" [sic] have a very toy like design, especially the hull's gunwale (curve) when viewed from the side. That being said, I would like to restore it, probably to another type boat as I don't want to start cutting the gunwale. to flatten it some. Now the condition of everything is fair and the hull is pretty solid. (The hole in the bow area is a chop job done by the previous owner to install a bow thruster.) Everything is dirty bun ca be cleaned up. It is missing the wheelhouse. I would like to re-use (modify?) the superstructure. So, here's where all of you come in. Given the shape of the hull and structure, do any of you have any ideas what this could be made into based on a real boat's looks? (If there are any real tugs in the style/looks, could you pass that info on to me?) Thanks, Lew

I have been asked by Mike (on this forum) on how I made the fish net for my trawler, so I decided to enter this in a build blog for anyone else to view. Building a trawler was not one of my priorities in building RC scale model boats. However I came across a deal I could not pass up and this partially built boat (33-inch long Artesania Latina “Helen”) was part of the package. Despite the tall masts and netting, this is a very good sailing boat, forward and backward. I renamed the boat “Elena” with “H-103” as the registry number simulating that it would be out of Hull Harbor, U.K. When I decided to continue the build (after some de-construction) from the deck up, I also looked into similar real boats off the east coast of the U.K. I downloaded photos and information on how these drag trawlers operated and the type of nets and equipment on board. (I am not a commercial fisherman so I’m sure someone will correct me here.) It looked like this type of trawler is called a “beam trawler” where the boom holds the horizontal “beam” that spreads the net apart. The net is open on the front end with the top edge strung with floats (here, beads) and the bottom edge with weights (here small fishing line sinkers). The top edge is pretty much aligned with the beam and the bottom edge is longer so it allows the net to open. My understanding is that this type of trawler would lower the net in shallow water and drag the net along the bottom. I started with using wedding veil material for the net. Probably should have used a darker color but my choice was limited, so we have a “new” net. As the net would be scrunched up on the deck it made no sense to make it too long. The bottom end is just folded and the sides are hand stitched. Supporting lines were added to the top and bottom leading edges to “strengthen” the net as well as hold the floats and weights. All the rigging is different with emphasis on making this look like a working boat. This includes numerous blocks and tackle. A few markers (floats, photo 7) are on the deck as they were commonly used. The three man crew (Tamiya 1/20 scale pit crew) seems to be handling everything well. The fish are a combination of plastic fish (photo 6) supplemented by some that I printed on my color printer and laminated with a little filler in-between to give the depth. For anyone interested I have a 2015 "on board" video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxh6vW4SbOc . Lew

I found an excellent and inexpensive airbrush cleaning solution (for acrylic paints). The link is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7afdu2tgXA however here are the ingredients: Distilled water - 3 parts Window cleaner ("Windex" or equiv. with ammonia) - 2 parts Isopropyl alcohol 91% - 1 part Glycerin 1 drops for each 15ml of water In my case I used a 60ml plastic jar as follows: Filled with the water to 30ml Added window cleaner to 50ml Added alcohol to 60ml Added 4 drops glycerin Works great on slightly dried (several minutes) paint, much better than acrylic thinner. Will not remove time dried paint. Lew

I had a need for several sets of bar clamps with about 6 -6 inches capacity. The only ones I saw were too heavy or expensive so I designed a set with a few extra features and made a handful via one of my 3D printers. I have the STL files on my site for FREE downloads as well as two YouTube videos, one an intro and the other a how to build. Here are the links: Intro: http://lewsmodelboats.org/Mini-Bar-Clamp.htm Make: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n91onP_e3M4 Downloads: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrujDxf_a-4 I hope they are of use to others. Lew

The Dusseldorf (FLB 2) model fire boat kit was originally produced by Robbe and now sold under the name Krick. The kit is based on the original configuration as the fire boat was built in 1965. In 1979 (well over 40 years ago) the original Dusseldorf was significantly modified and one of the modifications was the hull being lengthened significantly. The increased length is about 200mm (8 inches) in the model's hull. In order to increase the hull's length it had to be cut into two pieces (across the beam near the middle (lengthwise). In the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5_Hh1uIlG4) of this process you will see the steps I used to modify the ABS hull. Additional help, information, and updates are posted on my web site: https://lewsmodelboats.org/M-Fire-Boat-Dusseldorf-2-Index.htm This video may be helpful to others needing to modify ABS hulls as it deals with cementing and filling ABS including adhesion (weld type) with ABS 3D printed parts, and styrene, both extrusions and sheet.