Members Harbour
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SLEC MR TOM, named Captain Tom.
This is a model built from a small kit from SLEC it gives a lovely little boat at 16 inches long which when powered by a 400 on 6 volts readily gets on the plane. A nice kit to build and a lovely little boat to sail. Fitted with oversize rudder for use in steering competitions.
mistyoptic
2 years ago
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HAKITS MORSTON
The finished result of my building blog, an HAKITS Morston, a fishing boat design and this model based on a Sea Angling boat sailing out of Whitby. Yet to be sailed.
Geoff
mistyoptic
2 years ago
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Small Scratch Built Yacht
Again a 1980's picture at Woodbridge, this time a scratch built small yacht from a free plan. Fixed sails, rudder only
mistyoptic
3 years ago
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Solarcraft Dolphin
Picture here of a Solarcraft Dolphin I was sailing on the pond at Woodbridge during the 1980's
mistyoptic
3 years ago
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Aeronaut DIVA
A recently completed project during lockdown. A super kit to build from Aeronaut, with accurate laser cutting mahogany double sided ply for upper hull and superstructure. ample space for RC gear. Have yet to put in on the water due to current UK situation.
Fitted MFA RE385 5 pole motor.
mistyoptic
3 years ago
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2 Photos
4 Likes
Mantua Mincio
My first model boat build for about 30 years. Mincio is all wood construction with balsa planked on frames and clad with mahogany planking. a simple boat to build and sail. Very small motor 280, which drives small two bladed prop. Kit comes with motor, shaft and prop and rudder and all deck fittings. I use a small pond so the size is ideal and looks good on the water, not swift but goes well. small rubber band drive between motor and prop shaft. I change the band on each sailing as I have experienced transmission failure mid pond on one occasion!
mistyoptic
3 years ago
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Members Blogs
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MILLER FIFER
FIFER 15.
Itβs been a while since I completed my last build blog, A small Dutch auxiliary yacht. This was an enjoyable build from a simple 1952 plan because I was able to put my own stamp on it by building in additional features.
I really wanted something to build in the same way, a build from wood from a plan. What caught my eye on the Sarik plans catalogue was a motor yacht, MILLER FIFER, a 1/15 scale of a 31 foot full-size giving a model of about 24 inches in length.
The Miller yachts were build by the Scottish boatyard of James Miller and Sons of St. Monans in Fife, mainly between 1958 and late 70βs. The history of this yard is well documented online if you want to follow.
When the plan arrived, I must say I did not now where to start, no building detail, just the cross section lines and hull lines, the shape of the keel was outlined and marked with the rabbet line. The model had appeared in Model Boats of August 2011 as a free plan and by luck there was a copy of this issue on e bay.
I sent for it, it said without the plan so no problem, I already had that. When the magazine arrived sure enough this was the right issue, but alas the article had little reference to the model build but focussed largely on the history of the James Miller boatyard over about two centuries. It did say, that with the sail plan as shown, the author did not think the model would sail very well so it would be better floated as a motor yacht with sails furled. This is ok with me.
But I had to set about deciding how I was going to build the model. It is a plank on frame model.
I fell back on what I had done with the Dutch yacht and created bulkheads from the cross sections by scanning and pasting onto card and then drawing around the whole shape and fretting from 5mm ply. The keel was laminated from two 5mm sides of obeche around a 1mm ply centre, I am a great believer in laminating it can create a strong member from a softer and lighter wood. I felt I needed the softer obeche as I had to cut a rabbet line into it to accept the garboard strake and the bulkheads would be cross halved into the keel. In practice this has worked well.
This blog has come in well after the start of the project because the early stages were longwinded, preparing and cutting bulkheads and mounting them on the keel. The Miller yachts are derived from the sturdy fishing vessels built over the preceding century by the company and indeed the hulls are very little changed from the fishers. This ruggedness has been carried into the design of the model and with the build so far the strength is evident.
A few pictures as to where I am at now and more explanations to follow as the build continues.
Geoff.
mistyoptic
1 year ago
9 Posts
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DUTCH AUXILIARY
DUTCH AUXILLIARY.
This build blog been brought about by chance and is project which fulfils a leaning toward nostalgia in a few ways. My last build had come to an end and had proved successful on the water, and I thought that building had ceased, as we humans would be released into the wild again, perhaps building would take a back seat during the summer months.
But on reviewing some of the folders in my workshop I came upon a couple of plans that I had bought two or three decades ago intending to build them one day. One was a MAP plan of Tornado, a small high speed launch and the second, which is to be the subject of this build blog, βDutch Auxiliaryβ. I remember gazing at both these models in the MAP Plans handbook of the day in the 1950's.
The nostalgia kicked in and I decided I must build it. Designed for Model Maker in the spring of 1952 the construction shows all of the ideas of previous eras. When I was about 11 or 12 my elder brother, some ten years senior, bought me a book for Christmas, around the time this plan would have been published, Model Boat Building, sixth edition 1948, by F J Camm.
As an impressionable youngster I gathered that, whoever he was, F J Camm must be the fount of all wisdom as he edited all the βPraticalβ magazines of the day , be it Wireless, Television, Motorist, Householder and so on.
The design of Dutch Auxiliary follows many of the ideas shown in this book and the idea that the model should be sturdy is reflected in the use of 3/16 ply formers set at 2 inches apart in a 16 inch hull which seems a bit hefty. The junction of the stem to the keel using cross halving joint and screws seems to show how jointing then did not have the advantage of our modern adhesives. In fact I did wonder if the designer had recently retired from building Henry 8ths Fleet of warships and did I ought to go out and buy and adze!
The final bit of nostalgia came from the fact that on my first holiday from work in 1979 I enjoyed a week on the Norfolk Broads with a teenage mate in Whippet 11, a small two berth yacht fitted with a British Seagull outboard and this design bears a similarity to that boat. (1930's Whippet - Broads Cruiser Renovation By Chris - Boat Renovation People (boat-renovation.com)
The plan has not a great deal of detail, the bulkhead lines are shown in half section with a side view of the keel and plan view of the deck and lines, with step by step drawings of the assembly. It was to be skinned with 1/16 ply on the hull, deck and cabin top. A plain dowel for the mast and just an outline for the sailplan and simple rigging to hold up the mast, set in a brass ferrule attached to the keel. The auxiliary can be either a small diesel engine, electric or clockwork.
In this relatively simple design I can see the chance to make a small model yacht which has a degree of class, if built using dark natural hardwoods, with a tapered wooden mast, hardwood booms and bowsprit. The hull can be skinned with a thinner grade of ply, say .8mm, and then planked with a similar thickness of mahogany. The cabin again would be dark hardwood as would be the seats in the well. The deck could be planked with a light wood.
The power unit, with not a clockwork clock in the house and having sold my small diesels 50 years ago, would have to be an electric motor. The pics show a bit of an overview of the Plan and building will commence with next blog.
Geoff
mistyoptic
2 years ago
12 Posts
9 Followers
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HAKITS- PILOT LAUNCH-LARGER VERSION.
HAKITS -PILOT LAUNCH - LARGER VERSION.
No sooner had the paint dried on my HAkits Morston, the kit for the Pilot Launch arrived.
Simply but securely packed, the outer corrugated cardboard wrapping revealed the contents of the entire kit in a polythene sleeve, simply bound at the top with a folded and stapled printed name.
No fancy expensive box to add to the cost, the laser cut sheets were a snug fit in the sleeve and included were the 3D printed window frames, a radar scanner and a life-raft, the Handbook and a printed template for the window shapes and the acetate sheet to use with them, and that was that. If you are new to HA Kits then you might have been disappointed in what you have got, but from my point of view as someone who loves working with wood, I knew that from experience of the Morston, the kit would deliver a good deal of satisfaction and an opportunity for me to try some different ways of doing things.
Taking the ply sheets from the wrapper I could see that the wood was of good quality and the laser cutting precise, and most parts etched with their title, smaller parts were named on the waste wood immediately adjacent to the part. And talking of waste wood, a useful by product of this type of kit is that you get a good selection of bits of ply to use elsewhere or for making other bits for the model, if nothing else, a good selection of paint stirring and epoxy mixing sticks to see you through this model and the next. However, the way the parts are laid out does make economical use of the raw material. The handbook says to read it through before starting and to remove all parts form the sheets of ply. I cannot emphasise this too much, it is essential to do this, just so that you gain an idea of what each part looks like and to be familiar with the suggested order of assembly, and you will soon find the merit in this as you start to put things together.
The handbook suggests using CA glue for building, but I would not be able to use such an amount of that glue because it irritates my eyes and nasals. So, I am using Gorilla wood glue, this may not be totally waterproof but is not going to get that wet, I hope. Over the years of building model aircraft I have adopted a way of using PVA glue efficiently. I decant the glue into a small pot, breakfast jam jar or a hand cream jar, so that I am not having to dip in the glue container, as the smaller amount is available. I have a selection of cheap artist brushes, Poundland and the like, in a jar with water and when gluing is required, I just take a brush, wipe off the excess water, dip it in the little glue pot and brush onto the parts. Chose brushes with non-rust ferrules, most have aluminium.
It would be easy to push ahead with the building of this model, following the handbook and then later when the running gear needed to be fitted you will have backed yourself into a corner, so I suggest take it slowly, one step at a time and make sure that before you proceed to the next step, by doing so you will not make life difficult later.
The Model is based on the Hartlepool Pilot Boat Crusader of the 1970βs and is designed for twin motors and rudders. I have chosen two brushless motors rated at 140w each and the prop shaft length as recommended in the handbook. I have not chosen mega power in this case as the Woodbridge pond is quite small and so a potentially high speed will not be achievable, so a good speed will be satisfactory.
So, the build starts with placing the lower deck on a board, and then fitting the formers to this. There are pics here showing how accurately cut these parts are and they go together quite easily, checking for squareness as I go. This is the first step so more next time. Geoff.
mistyoptic
2 years ago
Recent Posts
π RC equipment for mt huntsman help!!!
3 months ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Well done to Jacko for this, but be aware that many receivers have the motor control on channel 3.
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π woodbridge model boat club
1 year ago by
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Getting off to a good start in 2022, with regular Tuesday sailing events and Mondays with Power craft.
New members always welcome, come and chat at the pondside.
Geoff Lambert
Chairman
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π¬ Re: IS IT A BOAT, IS IT A TRUCK? - IT'S A BIT OF BOTH,- THE AMPHITRUCK
1 year ago by
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Can't wait to see it on the pond.
Great ingenuity!
Geoff
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π MILLER FIFER
1 year ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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FIFER 15.
Itβs been a while since I completed my last build blog, A small Dutch auxiliary yacht. This was an enjoyable build from a simple 1952 plan because I was able to put my own stamp on it by building in additional features.
I really wanted something to build in the same way, a build from wood from a plan. What caught my eye on the Sarik plans catalogue was a motor yacht, MILLER FIFER, a 1/15 scale of a 31 foot full-size giving a model of about 24 inches in length.
The Miller yachts were build by the Scottish boatyard of James Miller and Sons of St. Monans in Fife, mainly between 1958 and late 70βs. The history of this yard is well documented online if you want to follow.
When the plan arrived, I must say I did not now where to start, no building detail, just the cross section lines and hull lines, the shape of the keel was outlined and marked with the rabbet line. The model had appeared in Model Boats of August 2011 as a free plan and by luck there was a copy of this issue on e bay.
I sent for it, it said without the plan so no problem, I already had that. When the magazine arrived sure enough this was the right issue, but alas the article had little reference to the model build but focussed largely on the history of the James Miller boatyard over about two centuries. It did say, that with the sail plan as shown, the author did not think the model would sail very well so it would be better floated as a motor yacht with sails furled. This is ok with me.
But I had to set about deciding how I was going to build the model. It is a plank on frame model.
I fell back on what I had done with the Dutch yacht and created bulkheads from the cross sections by scanning and pasting onto card and then drawing around the whole shape and fretting from 5mm ply. The keel was laminated from two 5mm sides of obeche around a 1mm ply centre, I am a great believer in laminating it can create a strong member from a softer and lighter wood. I felt I needed the softer obeche as I had to cut a rabbet line into it to accept the garboard strake and the bulkheads would be cross halved into the keel. In practice this has worked well.
This blog has come in well after the start of the project because the early stages were longwinded, preparing and cutting bulkheads and mounting them on the keel. The Miller yachts are derived from the sturdy fishing vessels built over the preceding century by the company and indeed the hulls are very little changed from the fishers. This ruggedness has been carried into the design of the model and with the build so far the strength is evident.
A few pictures as to where I am at now and more explanations to follow as the build continues.
Geoff.
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π Titanic
1 year ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Agree with your comments, Nerys, all that cash and the first time you sail it, it sinks!
Best wishes for 2022, new blog coming soon.
Geoff
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π Woodbridge Model Boat Club.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Thanks Treve, Hope you are keeping well.
Geoff.
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π Woodbridge Model Boat Club.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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For what ever reason I have now been elevated to Club Chairman at Woodbridge. If you live in the Woodbridge area we will be pleased to see you.
Powercraft skippers and scale boats especially. Help always available if you need it.
Geoff Lambert 01473 624130
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π woodbridge model boat club
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Be pleased to see you Phil, let me know when you are coming, will try to be there to welcome you.
Geoff Lambert
Chairman.
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π woodbridge model boat club
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Club now up and running again after Covid disaster.
Looking for new members for 2022, particularly power boat skippers. If you are new to the hobby, plenty of help available.
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π Yet another free B
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Looks like you've got your hands full with that one, Jack.
Geoff
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π¬ Re: SLEC MR TOM, named Captain Tom.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Thanks for that, lovely little boat, and from the side view on the plan I can see why it gets onto the plane so well.
Geoff
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π SLEC MR TOM, named Captain Tom.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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π Dutch Auxiliary
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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The final Chapter, (delayed)
Thank you Nerys for reminding me that my blog has lapsed, but the model has now been finishedβ
Progress had been good up to the point when I had to, (well wanted to) break off to build a small model for the Club steering competitions at Woodbridge. So in about the space of a month I built a SLEC βMr Tomβ which has improved my performance in the comps. A picture of the culprit is attached.
But with the yacht I did meet a stumbling block in the fixing of the weight to the keel. I had determined by trial and error the amount of lead needed to bring the boat to the waterline and set about implanting this in the keel.
I had acquired some sheet lead flashing and was able to knead this into a shape to fit within the existing keel. I cut the required aperture and fixed the lead there with hot melt glue and then set about covering it over with hardwood cheeks. This produced a fin that was now far too fat and being hardwood was very difficult to thin as it was attached to the hull, a place where it had sat in glory almost from day one. I was now left with a model yacht with an ugly fin and absolute disappointment that this aspect had not allowed me to continue the good work that I had achieved so far. So, ruthlessly I sawed off the offending part leaving me with a flat-bottomed boat. A new fin was cut in outline from the same timber as the keel and this would be butt jointed and dowelled back onto the keel. The lead was placed within the fin and fixed as before. Two thin cheeks of .8mm ply were glued to the outline of the hull and were able to be tapered to a reasonable fore and aft thickness. This was all covered with Eze-cote and heavyweight model tissue to enable a good surface to be obtained. Gone now was the lovely hardwood varnished keel and the new fin was painted to blend with the lower surface of the hull.
The in-house seamstress was persuaded to make her first set of sails ever. The main was laced to the mast from bottom to top and the jib threaded with its own stay. The curved gaff was two laminations of hardwood around a .8mm ply insert which protruded below the gaff to enable the top of the main to be glued to it with canopy glue. This seems to be holding OK.
It was then a matter of completing the rigging and getting everything in place. And testing the radio functions. All performed well although the two-turn winch does not pull the sail through 90 degrees a good arc of control is available. The motor, driving the prop through a 2 to 1 reduction via a rubber band and pulleys worked well.
The maiden voyage went off without incident, although on the day, the wind on the Woodbridge Pond was very light and fickle, the usual state sadly, it being surrounded by trees. It sailed well with what wind there was, and the motor proved useful in executing 180 deg. turns.
At one point I was able to come along to the windward side of a DF65 and gently ease the motor on leaving it almost standing still! The motor powers it at a respectable speed and so far am happy with the performance but would like more wind to get a good feeling for it.
It only remained to bring it home and break open the Champagne and name this ship DAME NERYS which is Dutch for Lady Nerys, I told her I would do it!
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π¬ Re: A little more paint
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Nice paint job, and I love the hull shape
Geoff
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π¬ Re: Veronica
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Try Fishing weights on E bay, sold in ingots
Geoff
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π¬ Re: Durch Auxiliary
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Hello Nerys, try Howes as below, they have a series of winches, in vaying turns at Β£9.99
Geoff
https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/2-turn-standard-size-drum-winch/ |
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π¬ Re: Durch Auxiliary
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Thank you Nerys for your compliments. Yes I will be adding ballast to the keel, but am not certain as to how much. The plan shows a waterline so think I will ballast it temporarily inside and then transfer the weight to the foot of the fin. There will be a certain amount of weight within the hull, mainly the battery, a 6v Nimh which will be placed at the very bottom of the hull. There is a full size sail winch as well, a bit of an overkill for a boat of this size, but cheap at 9.99 and runs just the right amount of sheeting out.
Best wishes, Geoff.
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π Durch Auxiliary
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Hello Again,
A little while since I let you catch up with progress on the Dutch Auxiliary Yacht, and I have been involved in adding the mahogany planking to the sides and a solid mahogany transom. The latter task was a bit tricky but was able to use clamps and rubber bands to help the glue bond.
The planking was 5mm x 0.8 mm over the existing .8mm ply side. This went quite well and was only the second bit of planking I had done, so was reasonably pleased with the result.
At this point I must say how much encouragement and how many constructive ideas I have received from Nerys. Her encouragement has been in the form of making my Dutch yacht have a Dutch look to it and has advised that I make leeboards for the boat which I have done, (not operational) and through experience she has advised that I deepen the rudder so that is more effective, so a second deeper rudder has been made.
All this has made me search for images of Dutch boats on the Net and I am amazed at how many different designs and variations there are to look at and follow. Leeboard shapes and design are legion, so I have opted for what seems to be a suitable design for my boat. I am hopeful that with this wide variety available I will be able to evade criticism of things, βnot being rightβ. The leeboards will have brightly painted head and foot, which seems to be the thing.
Work has gone on well beyond what I am showing here and so my next blog will follow relatively soon, I hope. The final picture shows paper mock-up of the sails with other bits just taped in place and it is beginning to look like the picture on the packet! (Had there been one).
Some of the delay has been as a result of the Woodbridge Model Boat Club reconvening and so have been sailing instead of building, which has been good.
Thanks for your continued interest.
Geoff
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π¬ Re: Hull shaping, cloth and resin, oh and a standβ¦.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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I find Rustins Outdoor Clear Varnish very good, dries in 30 minutes, can be thinned with water if required and brush wash up with water.
Geoff
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π¬ Re: DUTCH AUXILIARY
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Thank you for this comment Nerys, I have been wondering whether to bother with the leeboards but your lovely gentle persuasion has made me come to the conclusion that they must be added. Have already looked out some nice hardwood for them. "Were you ever a used car salesperson?!!!!!
Best wishes
Geoff.
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π¬ Re: Prepping and Painting the Hull.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Martin, Thanks for this, Nice finish for this wooden hull.
Geoff
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π DUTCH AUXILIARY
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Slowly making progress
It seems as I have not posted an update for nearly three weeks, so my apologies for being a bit lax. Nevertheless, I have not been slacking, it just seems that the tasks I have completed since last blog have been time consuming, and have not produced much of photographic interest.
The deck has been planked with 5mm wide planks and these have been sourced from slats from a discarded wooden blind, the finished stripped from its surfaces by belt sander, then fine sanded and cut into 5mm strips on the Proxxon circular saw.
The planks were butted edge to edge and stuck to the frames with Evo Stik waterproof glue, planking over the apertures for the forward hatch and mast box, leaving me to rediscover them later. Planking was taken as far as the rear of the cabin and then the rear section completed, by using the slats at full width, but scored at 5mm intervals to simulate planks.
As this wood is quite white I have just varnished it with Sikkens outdoor varnish, which is clear and water based and brushes are cleaned in water. Donβt like spirit cleaners these days.
A mahogany cover has been made for the forward hatch and has to be detachable for access to the Rx.
Following this work the floor boards were made for rear well and were built in three sections, two at the fore, either side of the engine, and one into the rest of the well to the transom. The boards, as used for the deck, were laid on .8mm ply to make life easy and to keep the shape.
The seating and back rests were glued to the formers and again using the wood from the slats but this time, stained as antique pine to match the boarding at the rear of the cabin. This will be varnished as above.
Finally the βengine coverβ has been built and finished with the stain to match. The top of the propshaft, with a rotating collet, is not fully covered and may present some health and safety issues, but people will just have to be careful!!
That just about brings me up to date now but would like to leave this gem with you.
From, βBuild Yourself a Model Boatβ, published in 1950. ---'In these days of motor cars and wireless sets, most men can solder.β We still have the motor car and wireless sets, but can most men still solder?
Geoff.
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π Computer Time.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Doug, Sir, Fleet Admiral, With the greatest respect this old codger is some ten years older than yourself, but I know what you mean!!!!!!!
Regards
Geoff.
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π Computer Time.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Hello To Martin, and others who serve us on this site.
Thank you for all you do, but I don't think many of us realise who much time you put in to dealing with what needs to be done. But I don't feel that you should spend too much time doing research for people, if they have a computer to send a question, then, in my view, they have the means to find the answer for themselves. Surely this is part of our hobby searching for information or data, and of course some questions I have seen are just, asking a question for the sake of it. We see them in all hobbies. Please make time for yourselves, we want you to do that.
Regards,
Geoff.
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π¬ Re: Aeronaut Diva Kit
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Love it Robert, nice build and finish, looking good.
Glad you are getting on with the kit, it is a joy to build isn't it?
Regards
Geoff.
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π¬ Re: Aft Well Deck
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Super job Martin, Inspirational.
Regards
Geoff
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π¬ Re: The Main Deck.
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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Good job here Martin, some thoughts and inspiration for me on my next build. Looks like your friend could finish up with a super model.
Regards Geoff.
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π¬ Re: Aeronaut Diva Kit
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

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So far so good, Robert, You will find it should it all progress as per plan as they say.
Best Regards
Geoff
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π¬ Re: Aeronaut Diva Cabin Cruiser kit
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

Midshipman)
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Robert, Thanks for enquiry, for this kit I used Gorilla wood glue and this is what I always use now. It is relatively thick, but is good to use. Otherwise in places where you may feel something a bit thinner is more suitable then evo stik waterproof is a good alternative. For the speed controller I used a car model from Arrow models this works very well but would recommend an Mtronics Viper Marine 10, currently discounted by Howes models from Β£27.99 to Β£20.99. I am using a 7.2v Mn 2000 which I never manage to exhaust in a sailing session. If you purchase an MFA motor and it comes with a fixing, this will not be needed ads the appropriate bulkhead is already drilled for the motor to be fitted directly to and and is in line with the propshaft. The motor, shaft and esc can all be obtained from Howes and a battery as well. I always use Overlander batteries and these are available from Howes too. Obviously choose a shaft at the same length as the kit item.
The prop in the kit is minute so try to get a prop of similar dimensions with a 4mm boss.
Best regards
Geoff.
PS. Decant some of the glue into a small pot, rather than struggle to get it out of the bottle each time and apply with a small brush. Store the brush in a jar of water so that it is always ready to use after a quick wipe to get rid of the water. See my Morston Blog on for a full description of the method I use.
https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/mtroniks-microviper-marine-10-boat-esc-electri |
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π¬ Re: Aeronaut Diva Cabin Cruiser kit
2 years ago by
π¬π§ mistyoptic (

Midshipman)
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Hello Robert, I built an Aeronaut Diva last spring as my second boat in Lockdown. It was a joy to build and a pleasure to sail. I would suggest that you upgrade the kit propshaft by using a 4mm shaft instead of the one supplied in the kit which is flimsy and if used with a decent motor vibrates a lot at middle speed. If you fit an MFA 385 she will plane quite easily. If you want a more sedate model then a standard 400 will do. I found the windows a bit tricky and for best effect use a good canopy glue. (I found out too late!) See mine in my harbour.
Best wishes and follow the instruction book and you should finish with a nice model.
Geoff Lambert
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