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Model Boats Website Team
December 2018: 4 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 11 people
Well it is nearly Christmas again and time to go to my testing river in Hungary. This boat will not be ready but I hope to complete the Police Launch this trip. I have started the painting process on the Pilot Boat. Very early on I had a dilemma. When is the correct time to paint. As I generally use rattle cans and an airbrush, I think it best to paint prior to major assembly. I am still not sure if this is the correct approach but I am concerned with masking an assembled unit. I hope that the glue does not ruin the paint finish when I put it together. It is a bit difficult spray painting this time of the year due to the fumes. I spray in the garage with the door open but I am always concerned about air temperature. The finish looks good so perhaps this is not of great concern yet.🤓 I will now leave the hull to dry prior to applying the lacquer. I have completed the insides of the bridge and rear room and will start to assemble this part next prior to masking and painting the outside walls. I have bought a roll of special low tack clear film to protect the windows and frames. I hope this works. I have used the same film to cover the instrument panel which so far seems to be staying on well. I think that these models by AeroNaut are really well designed. It still amazes me that the model looks so natural even though it is made generally from flat thin sheets.😉 I will attach the deck next and then start on the main structures. Happy Christmas to all.
Hi Steve. In have been reading this thread with great interest as I am currently making this Pilot Boat kit. I am about 70% there but have hit a snag that I have no answer for and hoped you could help. I am trying to fit the glazing but have found it to be fairly loose in the holes. Can you advise as to how you glued yours in place without sticking the protective tape in place and how it stays there due to the gaps around. When did you fit the metal trims. Thanks.😊 Peter.
I am currently working on a few projects at a time. One boat, a Police Launch, has several working lights that I have aded as extras. I have quite a bit of available room so I have used 7/0.2 equipment wire for all of the LED`s. For my Pilot Boat, I have very little room to run the wires and so will have to reduce drastically. I cannot seem to find smaller wire which leads me to believe that I am looking in the wrong places. Please can I ask for advice as to which wire size I should be looking for and where to look for it. I like to colour code the wires also to make fault tracing easier, so multiple colours would be an added bonus. Thanks. Peter.😊
Really useful information here. I will take it all on board. I would like to know though if the primer red is the ideal colour for your top coat for antifouling, can it remain as primer only or is it necessary to go to a proper top coat paint. Thanks.🤓😊
This build is proving to be much more difficult than I had expected. 😤 I think I started this project thinking that all of the parts were ready to fit and glue. As I went on, it became clear that this is not the case. Due to this, and as detailed in the earlier post, I have had to break down the glue joints of the hull frame, and reposition after deepening some of the assembly slots. I have re-assembled the bulkheads, stringers etc. and then started to fit the side skins. This has proven to be the most difficult task so far. You need six arms. After several failures, removal of all of the fixing tape and then starting again, they finally started to look reasonable. I watched a time lapse video on you tube and he seems to do it fairly easily. Oh well. 🤔 Now that I was happy with the fit of the sides, it was time to start on the bottom skins. I started by trying to form chamfers along the keel centre joints so that they look reasonable. Then I once again applied tape to hold them in position whilst glueing with my other three hands, I wish. This only took two attempts. I must be getting better. I still have most of my hair also. Next, I tried to mount the motors onto the angled bulkhead. The front location was very loose so I made a couple of thin silver steel rings to improve the fit. They work very well. 😊 Next job was to fit and align the prop shafts. I decided to make these solid joints and avoid the use of universal joints. The first motor went straight on with perfect shaft alignment. The second was not so good. After two hours of fiddling with a packer, I finally achieved perfect alignment. Next job was to give good joint strength and make the hull water tight. Rightly or wrongly I use a lot of glue to give that perfect seal. I used epoxy for all of the skin inner joints and Stabilit for the outer seams and joints. I used the Stabilit around the shafts as well which looks a little messy at the moment, but I will tidy all of this up next. I will paint the inner Stabilit with white paint to hide a little. This weekend I will do a water test to ensure it is water tight.😱 I think after that I will fit all of the electrics, servo and speed controller. Then I will spray the hull and the main deck prior to fixing together. I would be interested to know what others think about when to paint, before or after assembly, especialy regarding the hull. Enough for now.🤐 I will try to speed up the build a bit now as I am expecting the new 46" Crash Tender to arrive soon. Wood!!! Love it.😊
I was hoping to get some help. I am considering changing the prop shaft for a much stronger one. I am concerned that the existing 35 year old unit with plastic bearings might not stand up well to the new 1485 motor running at 22,000 rpm potentially, I think.🤓 Is there a method to removing old shafts without damaging the hull. If this is thought to be a viable proposition, please could I have recommendations for a 13" shaft with suitable bearings. Thanks. Peter.😉
Hi Doug. Thanks for the design. It looks really good and very adjustable. I have bought a 1485 brushless motor for the rebuild. A bit of a beast so I hope not too much. I think this is a lot more powerful than a 480 so do you think 8 or 10mm ply for the mount. Thanks.🤓
Now that the primer coat is on throughout, does anybody have any ideas as to how I can mount the new out-runner motor I have bought for this model. Is there an adjustable mounting bracket on the market I can buy or is it make it myself. Does anybody have pictures of suitable mounts to give me ideas as to how to proceed. Thanks.😊
Looks really good. I am a precision engineer but I still look in awe at the way you get around making small items. Sorry Doug, but this is the next project for me. With this blog to help with all of its detailed instructions, what could go wrong. Well except perhaps everything.😊
Well it has been a while but I can now continue with the renovation. I have purchased most of the weaponry from Battlecraft and I must say that I am impressed with the quality. I will add pictures of these later in the build. I have started to prime all of the wood. Removal of the final areas of the original paint was a task but I got there in the end. I have applied sanding sealer and rubbed it down with 1000 grit wet and dry. It is starting to look and feel quite smooth. Have you built the 50cal guns yet Doug? I would like to buy some but I am concerned that they might be a little brittle for me to handle.🤔 Just a couple of questions to ask before I get on. Can I have suggestions as to who supplies good quality wooden kits to build at reasonable prices. I need to consider my next project. I want to buy a 0.8mm air brush for the larger areas as I am finding 0.5mm too small. I have my eyes on an Iwata HP-EP. This is for sale on ebay new at £122. Are there any suggestions for a better and or cheaper solution. Thanks.🤓
Wednesday did not go too well. I used a new method to hold the skins in shape but could not line them up as I would like with the stringers. The keel also looked a little up and down which was going to hinder the fitting of the bottom skins. I made the decision to carefully break some of the joints and re-bed the keel in place. I have broken it up and found a bit of a mystery. I have adjusted the keel which now sits in a much better place. The problem I have found, and possibly the cause of most of my alignment woes, is that the Transom seems to be sitting about 1.5mm low which in turn sets the heel too high (see picture). The stringers seem to agree with this as when I put a straight edge along them the last joint seems to drop. I will reset the Transom in line with the keel which in turn will lift its feet above the jig. I cannot explain why this is but I think my plan will solve the problem. I just hope that I am not adding to the problems later on. I cannot see why this should be. I thought it might be my baseboard not being flat, so I rotated the model 180 degrees on the board with the same result. I will try again to set the model in alignment and hope that the skins fit better. All of the evidence points to this being the source of my problems. We will see.😤
Hi Mike. The bulkheads are all slotted as is the keel. The front of the keel is also located in a slot in the base board and so therefore all of the bulkheads are automatically held square in both directions. It has been glued and on a trial run, the skins fit well. I have been as careful as possible. The manufacturer has thought about assembly. The jig is not card. It is a strong sheet of 3mm Depron. If you see the picture above, you can see the slots for the bulkheads and the centre front slot for the keel. It does seem to keep everything in place very well.😊 I am going to try to fit the skins tomorrow. I wll report back if I don`t do myself an injury trying.🤓
Thanks Doug and Mike. I will use this when I attempt a scratch build next year. I have added a picture of the hull frame in the setting jig. It is surprisingly strong. I removed it only for the pictures.😊