I get the motors from eBay. Search for the ratios you need. Some are advertised in rpm. I have found them very reliable so far.

I am using five small 6volt geared motors to drive the features. 100, 400 and 1000:1 gear ratios. The motors are only around £5 each.

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I am currently working on a project that will use 16 channels. 3 fire monitors rotating, lifting, lowering and shooting water, a raise and lower anchor, a twist, lift and lower crane and all the usual. I am using an eight channel Tx with a further 8 channels using s-bus. We will see.🙀

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I wonder if a variable resistor on the input supply might do the trick. That would be some reduction though for making a safe rotational speed. Doug will have the answer.😀

We think alike Martin. I was going to write to Bob. You nudged me in to doing it.
Thanks.
Peter.😊

Hello.
I wondered if somebody in the community might be able to help me with a little problem.
I need to source a powerful 12v DC solenoid valve which is as small as possible, say 50mm square, with 1/8 ports or smaller but most importantly it must be normally closed and able to work under pressure in both directions. I have found perfect valves capable of 10 bar but all of them can only flow in one direction. I hope there is such an item.
Thanks, Peter.
BTW. I would be happier if 6-12v DC but I think that might be asking far too much.😊

I can just see the picture now. Christmas comes and Ed has 200 deliveries. All nozzles from different corners of the world leaving a world shortage.😀

My top secret project details are as follows:-
"ejjgipjfvuz5168 - fhfhöphöpaf - dglkägjjäagäjäj - ewtjögjüäijsh1584sgjh - *******************💥🔥!!"
(EDIT FLEET 😎😁)









More later.
Peter.

Thanks Doug. Lots for me to ponder over.
Going back to the solenoid valve, I am learning that it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to find one that can flow in both directions.🤔

I have already started the repair. I have a 16mm length of 4 x 3 brass tube and glued a 5mm length of solid Aluminium in the middle. I am going to drill the control arm hole in the centre and glue in place. Then I will slide the remaining plastic pegs of the planes inside the tube at each end and glue. This should sort it out.Thanks Martin.😊

I started reading the Beano and Dandy in the mid 60`s. I think Keyhole Kate was the Dandy. Cannot remember General Jumbo though. I seem to have missed out there. A deprived child this must make me.😁
School memories very much the same except I never saw any need for History as it always seems to repeat itself so you are better off with science fiction. The sciences and Maths have been useful though. Seems so long ago now.......Oh, it was!😐

I have decided to leave the ballast system for now. I am confident that my pressurised system will work very well but I have to source a much stronger solenoid valve. Ideas on this would be welcome but weight must be a consideration along with the tube connection size.
I have turned my attention to the main build. My aim for this session was to complete the aft section and cut all of the weight reducing sections. The first job was to place all of the decking parts and forward and aft sections into place using tape and mark all around with a marker pen. The parts were removed and another line drawn about 6mm (1/4”) inside. This is so that any removed material will not be visible once the deck is fixed back into position. Lines were then drawn about 12mm (1/2”) each side of the hull half connection points and the large areas cross hatched to avoid mistakes.
Time for the Dremel. I fitted the Dremel with a 25mm (1”) diameter 0.8mm (1/32”) rotary saw blade and very carefully cut all of the sections out. To join all of the cuts together, I used a 300mm (12”) hacksaw blade. Great care had to be taken with this process not only to avoid a visible cut, but also not to remove a finger. Regular counts were taken on fingers just in case.
To complete this task. I carefully removed all of the plastic burrs with a needle file. These are quite severe with Styrene but relatively easy to remove. I was happy with the results of this cutting.
The next item I addressed was the aft section. I had to try to assemble the two halves whilst installing the rudder, aft planes and their operating rods and connectors at the same time. I had previously made the connector rods and had carried out successful trials whilst holding the parts together with elastic bands. The time had arrived to glue the halves together with all of the parts in place. I assembled all of the parts again with bands and started to glue a part at a time. Disaster. I broke the aft planes in half. I was trying to be clever and keep this part in its original supplied condition and ignored previous builds that had strengthened this part. Not a good idea. I now have to try to repair this part and put in place even though both halves are now glued together. This is a job for the next update.
Just a reminder, if anybody knows of a solenoid valve that fits the requirements, help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for reading. Peter.😊

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Very nice model. Looks good on the water.
I like the lake. Very calm. I still like the bright yellow life boat. You could run this model at night without lights.😁

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I agree Doug. Problem is that I cannot, so far, find a valve that is not too large and have relatively small connections. (tube connectors)😐

Sea of Tranquility Doug.

They could be coming from China. Might take a few weeks.☹️

I have done further tests on the system. Everything is working well once. Then it all goes wrong. The pump will not prime to refill. I am sure that the solenoid valve is not up to the task. It is being pushed open when the pressure is direct onto the piston and jams when the pressure is adjacent. I need a much stronger solenoid and one which blocks across the flow. I will have to see what I can find. Still interested in our fundamental test error though Doug.🤔

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Super looking model. I am currently re-fitting a Patrol Torpedo boat. I hope it turns out something like yours.😊

What did we miss Doug.

Really nice model. Very delicate detailing.😊

Doug,
I think I have a solution to the valve problem. It depends on your answer to this question. Am I right in saying that if a solenoid does not throw and the power is still applied, no damage is done as it is only an electro magnet.
Thanks.

Congratulations Martin. Soon be up there with Doug.😊
By the way, what is "Place" on the points system.🤔

Sorry Martin. Keeping things simple does not compute. I am afraid my brain will not allow. I want to but my brain and hands do something else. I must have a strange genetic flaw. I must find a way around this. I know what you mean and agree, but those gremlins will win in the end.😁

Looks really nice.

Hi Doug.
I was thinking exactly as you. The pressure vessel I have made is of 4mm section at 52mm i.d. I have a sealed bolted rod holding the caps is place. The caps are 24mm thick Nylon 6. The pipe connector is M5 with a 2.2mm hole. Not much pressure area here. I think I might continue but taking extra care.
I did further tests yesterday and found that the solenoid valve works perfectly when not connected to the pump and under pressure in both directions. The problem is the valve. Do you think I need a more powerful one or do you think the valve only works in one flow direction. For some reason the instructions show a direction of flow but as the valve only blocks the through hole, I cannot see why.
The reason I was trying to avoid the piston system was to avoid the out of balance nose or tail first dive.😊

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I have been advised to stop with this method of a ballast tank. A veteran at this subject has advised that I am making a potential bomb which could injure somebody if it decided to go. He said that a simple fracture around my pipe connections could send parts flying causing potential injury. Now that it has been pointed out I see what he means. Back to the drawing board and a bladder system I think.🤔

Looking very good and so far as for not progressing well, you are much further ahead than I am doing on my projects and I thought I was doing ok considering.👍

So that I have full control of the dive. I like to vary the time it takes to submerge. Very realistic.

Don`t forget, it probably won`t take any where near 80% fill to submerge some way down under the water.

I like your switch idea but I would like to control the flow rate of the pump. I can fill the cylinder to 80% in about 40 seconds. I would like to make this variable. Hence the speed controller.😊