Hi JB.
Love the dash. How do you do the gauges. Are they printed and cut out?👍😀

I am not sure if this is relevant but ‘Duna’ is the Hungarian name for the Danube.
Peter.

Nice one Cash. Looks really nice on the water.😃😃
Peter

Hi JB.
It is a 5 metre fishing boat. About 16ft. It cannot be sailed which is just as well with my lack of skills. It has a 15hp Suzuki outboard. Super on the river though.👍

Hi Martin.
I live in Hungary and I had to buy Tx and Rx that are EU approved. EU is clearly written on both. I don’t think the RC police would shoot me if I were to use my other non approved radio though. If I don’t post again, I was wrong.😬

Hi guys.
A long time has passed since I have been able to consider modelling. I purchased two real boats during the year and my time has been spent mainly on these, along with completing my house here in Hungary.
I have attached a picture of where I am. I demonstrated all of the electronics during a Skype session earlier in the year with a few site members and although 11 channels worked well, two were not set up yet and three failed.
The failure was sorted as I found that one row on one of the 15 pin plugs had been wired back to front. I changed the wires around and I now have 16 working channels.
The picture shows where I am now, dust included. I hope to get on with this now as both of my boats are in the front garden and it is getting too cold to work on them.
I will try to update soon but must fight through all of that dust to see where I am.
Peter.😀

Hi Westward.
You can get the instruction book directly as a download from the Krick site. If not, I have them here in pdf and can send them to you. I think.😬
As for the plans, the best I can offer is photographs of the two drawings I have. This is a Krick model.
Peter.

Looking great JB.
When are the pond trials expected. Looking forward to seeing this one perform.👍

Coming along really nicely JB.
There are no real hobby shops here in Hungary that deal in boats. A very nice shop in Budapest mainly specialises in cars and static plastic models. I tried to buy glue there. They don’t sell it. Another I found also dealt mainly in cars. This one was like entering a slightly large phone box with stock all over the place. I wanted brass rod which, to my surprise, her managed to retrieve from somewhere under the pile. So far I am just about managing as I am not too good at scratch building.
Super project. A lot of research must have been required.😀

Nice one JB. Looks like all your hard work is paying off.👍😊

I wonder who sponsors the laundry room. Probably Persil. 😬

Looks really good Graham. I will ask you about glassing soon. My attempts on my large real boat has been challenging at best. Lovely job.
Peter.

Just an additional note. I am not sure if this applies here but if a separate battery to that running the ESC is being used, the negative of the switch units has to be connected to the negative of the main battery also.
Peter.

Superb Graham, as usual.
How about’ The bees knees’ for the name.😬

Hi Gary.
These would do the job.
Search for ‘nylon washers’. There are a lot of sellers who sell multiple sizes, usually giving you two choices, size and quantity.
You need M4 which will usually have a 4.3mm diameter hole. The next choice is quantity. You will notice that it costs less to buy more, sort of, so 20 should be about right.
Peter.

You can get the washers on eBay from the ‘bolt shop’. I also use these nylon washers.

Hi Andy.
If I need a rigid stand to work with, I use 20mm conduit with preformed bends and ‘T’ joints. I cannot find the relevant pictures but maybe this will help.
Peter.

Hi Len.
I haven’t been on the site for a long time as well. Your model is really looking nice.
As for your question; easy. Make a bigger one.😁
I have always found Krick models very good with decent instructions. I am sure that they would be more than interested to hear about the difficulties you have faced. I have found that they respond to queries reasonably quickly.
Hope to see further updates soon.
Peter.👍😀

This might be the ideal project to 3D print the hull.there should be several parts which would be exactly the same.
Peter.

Hi Martin. Great to hear from you.🙂

Nice find Nerys.
When my Father passed a few years ago, I inherited a Fairwind yacht. It needs attention as the rigging is missing. I have no idea about these boats or how to sail them but I will get around to learning.😆

Super job Colin.😃

Hi Simon.
I am so happy that you are making this model now. I have one which I have really been looking forward to starting. I can use your blog, if you don’t mind, as a major guide. Please add a lot of detail, as usual, because I will need all the help I can get. If you work as before, I am sure you will complete this inside three months. I am expecting to take two years.😬
Peter.

Thanks Lew for the suggestion but I must admit that task would be beyond my skill level.
I have now fitted all of the necessary equipment into the hull so will continue as I am.
I am just considering the electrical connections from the cabin to the hull. My original thought is being updated as the connecting wires were too rigid. I have a plan.
There will be a few connections to make prior to running this model including the water for the two cabin mounted monitors. If anybody knows of some small quick fit water connectors for this task I am all ears.
Peter.

Inspiration to complete yours Ed??😬

Picture postcard area there Ron.
The weather here is windy but mainly sunny. Temperatures of around 9C in the daytime dropping to -5C at night. No snow so far except for one shower if 3cm in January.

Brilliant. Hope that was not your steak in that pan.😀

Looks fantastic. Great job JB.👍👍

Wow. That is an incredible amount of small details to make. Do the decks detach so that you can see all of this detail Len.

I am now focusing on the wiring of the 16 channels. I thought that seeing that the hull is 48”, 1.20 metres long, there would be plenty of room. This has proved not to be that case and I think if I were starting from scratch, I would add a couple of accessible platforms to attach some of the circuits. The voltage regulators are larger than anticipated but I am getting there. I still have to add the two 3s batteries that just arrived, but I am sure this will not present too much of a problem.
I have made up a fuse and main switch assembly for the drive motor battery and added a fuse only for that ancillary battery. The cabin and hull cables are to be connected using a 25 pin plug and some wires added to the outside to carry a little more current for the search light and radar motors just in case.
I have chosen to use 11.1 volts, LiPo 3s, batteries for both the motor circuit and equipment circuits as I want the motors separate from everything else to give a reasonable run time. The main water pump works best on 12 volts especially as it has to feed three monitors which explains the need for the regulators as most of the other motors and equipment runs at six volts.
The sbus decoders have been fitted and the main receiver. The switch modules for the lighting and other equipment are in place but need to be connected. I am working through these one at a time. The voltage regulators are only capable of a constant 2 amp draw so I hope that the small geared motors do not stall as I really don’t have much space to add additional fuses to them all. The wiring diagrams I designed and posted earlier show all of the equipment needed to make this work. I am sure that there is an easier way to achieve this without the need for some of the regulators but that is beyond my knowledge of circuitry.
I will be continuing this work over the next couple of weeks and will update the blog then.
The pictures were taken at different stages of the installation.
Peter.😊