Steam Pub🎈🎈🎈🎈

The joints will be in the hull space along with the universal joints for the motor connections....I hope.
I have just drawn the motor position layout and it looks like two 25mm diameter geared motors fit the bill. I would like to know what rpm I should aim for. I would have thought that speed of the boat was fairly unimportant. slow is good, but torque would be. I was thinking around 500rpm at 6 volts. We will see. Thoughts would be welcome from more experienced builders. The inside of the Water Tight Compartment will be 66mm. This allows for both motors to be almost entirely below the tube centre line.

Very nice.👍

Fantastic workmanship. Looks superb.

Hi jb.
This is all new to me as well. There will be a sealed tube about 50cm long inside sealed with o ringed bungs at each end with further sealed barriers inside to hold the flotation bladder. I have the tube and the material for the bungs which I will start soon. The tube should be relatively easy to remove as I will use magnetic joints for the operating rods. This project will take some time and will be quite expensive.😊

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Steamer

I am about to start the most ambitious project to date. This one will be running alongside the three others currently on the go, The Police Boat which is nearly completed, The Dusseldorf Fire Boat which is well underway and the PTB upgrade.
My intention is to change this Revell model into a static dive radio controlled Submarine. I am lucky that Martin555 has agreed to help whenever I get stuck which will be invaluable since he has already almost completed the same.
I started by purchasing the model from Amazon for less than £50. I have also purchased the water tight tube for the electronics. I will make the end caps and sealed internal plugs from some 80mm diameter nylon I had at work. It will now come in handy that I am a toolmaker and have a considerable array of machines at my disposal.
I will turn the plugs next week and find suitable o rings.
I have started to prepare the hull. There is an enormous amount of work required to adjust the standard kit. A lot of cutting and drilling.
I have prepared the split lines and glued in the alignment pegs.
I have ordered suitable shafts and propellers from the USA. They should be here in a couple of weeks.
Next job is to stick the two halves together and start the cutting.

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You want to let some steam off.

Doug.
Please can you send details of the website on the other side of the asteroid belt. They might supply tea whilst posting.😬

Thanks Doug. The Pilot Boat has one which, incidentally, is wired backwards on one motor. I remember switching the wires.😀

Thanks for the explanation Doug. I will reverse one. Do you know which, yellow or blue, is positive on the ESC.😊

Stealth.

Silence?

I forgot to mention the motor wiring. I have wired them the same polarity because I use a dual ESC so I can just swap the wires over for one of the motors. 😊
By the way. Is there a difference between Cyanoacrylate, super glue and Loctite? I saw a confusing comment in Mikes build blog.😀

Quality. They look perfect.

Thanks to you both.
The pumps are Krick. I have found this company to supply quality items. Time will tell if this goes for their pumps as well.
I will show you my nails Doug. Soon. In the mean time, this glue is recommended by Krick for the water tight areas. I used it on the Pilot Boat and it has performed well so far. Well, the boat has not sunk yet.🤓

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I have spent the last couple of sessions preparing and fitting the prop shafts, mounts and pump plate.
First was to prepare the wood profiles, paint with sanding sealer and then prime them. They look a lot neater sprayed grey than just plain ply wood. I checked the two motors and found that the suppressor was not of the correct value. I removed it and replaced with the normal 47nf capacitor across the terminals and 10nf from each terminal to the casing. I then connected the wires to the terminals.
I built the assemblies, fitted the motors and placed then in the hull. I then inserted the shafts and connected them to the motors via solid connectors. I prefer solid drive connectors where possible as I believe this should reduce vibration which is often introduced through universal joints. When I was happy with the alignment, I glued the shafts in place with Acrylate. I then fitted and glued the water intake pipe also with Acrylate.
Next came the pump plate. This plate also has the rudder servo secured to it. After assembly, this was also glued to the hull.
Next job was to fit the rear deck support and the bead on the outside which will eventually hold the rubber fender strip. The pencil taped to the flat stick at a distance of 12mm was used to mark the outside of the hull similar to marking the deck support line before.
It was now time to prepare the two deck levels. Strengthening braces of ply wood were fitted all around. This has resulted in quite a strong unit. The instructions say that the fitting of the decks is next. I think they have forgotten all of the working features of this build. If the decks are glued now, there is no room for fitting in all of the gadgets. I will wait until I know what is required.
Next time I will start the preparation of the cabin. This part contains most of the fire monitor servos and piping, radar and search lights plus general lighting. Very busy.

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That is a really clever solution.
Love the quality of the woodwork and finish as well.
Gives us all a benchmark to try to achieve.

Perhaps the Army could help.

What`s with the pictures. They were attached to my post just now. No idea what they are.
Oh. They are your pictures Martin. They were in my post until I edited it and cancelled them.
Peter.

Glad to hear all is ok Colin. Perhaps you need an anchor of your own next time.

Thanks jbkiwi. Another thing I have been getting wrong all these years. I could have saved myself gallons of blood loss if I had known that before.😁

You could try Battlecrafts.co.uk
They manufacture many types of guns and torpedoes. They also make a lot of deck fittings.

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Very nice model.
Good job.😊

Patience. That’s where I am going wrong. I thought you were supposed to swear at everything.😬

Hi Bill.
The new web site update also included a review of the ranking structure. The change was made to give the people who give the most input more recognition.
With this review, most of us were demoted. I personally think this was a good move because it was far too easy to become a Fleet Admiral, in fact one new member nearly made the entire climb in three months,
I think I am accurate in saying that there is now only one Fleet Admiral and as you would see, he is by far the person who helps the most and submits the most content.
I hope this answers your question. Warrant Officer, once Captain.😊

Thanks Martin. Very helpful. I will check the Pilot Boat. I know the props are turning in the correct direction but not if they are on the correct side. I will keep the pictures for reference.
Peter.

Hi Martin.
Do you think the noise and vibration might be caused by the amount of angle the universal joints are working at. Is there room to angle the motors to reduce this.
Peter.

Decision made. Model ordered. Panic starting. 😊

Thanks Martin. This project really does look right up my street.
I will give it some thought. That`s enough of that thinking. Over rated. I will look for the basic kit. Amazon have the Revell 850394 which appears to be the same kit but a later version. I will look into that.
Thanks Martin.
Peter.
Yes Doug....Another project. I hope to be retired for a very long time.😊

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