Hi JB this looks good , what pumps did you use and where did you pipe them into the system

absolutely fantastic, I whish I could do/understand this system it keeps cropping up in all sorts of projects where do I start? is there a dummies start up kit?🤔

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Pete, I have a Harrison M300, In the past I ran the Leeds Engineering industry Training Board (EITB). When the industry Boards were "wrecked" and closed by the then government I had the job of selling all the centres assets, so I bought quite a lot of equipment as my job was/is my hobby.

Doug that looks just the ticket

Really looking the part now, a lovely looking winch system as Doug said the sealer coats need to be flatted between coats, followed the primer/filler coats that will eliminate any grain structure left.

I wonder if a "blimp" would look OK, just to give that bit of extra support😁

As I said before I wanted to separate the smoke from the water so I have made an outlet that will be bolted into the transom that separates the two outlets, whilst appearing to exit through the same hole. First I machined the main body having an outside diameter of 10mm and internally an 8mm diameter bore which carries the smoke out.
Into this 8mm dia there is a 5mm hole drilled at 90 degrees sideways and connects to a second body which is silver soldered to the main body, this has a 6mm entry pipe.
The water is carried out through a 6mm tube which is soft soldered into the main body. Finally an outer ring was machined; it was drilled/tapped 10BA which will allow it to be fastened into the transom. I have yet to try this for real but I see no reason for apprehension!

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Pete, I used Twisted Cord Line Tie String Thread Yarn Fibre Poly Rope Polypropylene PP 2 mm. A bit, of a mouthfull I'm affraid,however it worked fine

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twisted-Cord-Line-Tie-String-Thre...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twisted-Cord-Line-Tie-String-Thread-Yarn-Fibre-Poly-Rope-Polypropylene-PP-2-mm/172434875952?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

🔗

I have to thank Rob for his trail blazing manufacture of his nets as it made the process of making mine much easier.
I have made mine slightly different because early on in the build I decided to made the cabin roofs as flat and not cluttered as possible to make the painting and rubbing down much easier. So my rails that hold the nets to the roof are made to the same dimensions but are fastened to a sub board which can be attached via pre drilled pins at the very end of the build.
I cut a board to accommodate a 6 x 9 net having a spacing of 23mm squares. I tied the longitudinal ropes (WARP)to the pins and then loaded the home made “needle” which was made from a piece of 3 mm brass rod with a 2.2 hole drilled in one end to glue the rope into and the other end was machined to a point. Having loaded the needle I tied the end to a pin and started to tread the cross treads (WEFT) going through the warp tread until I had crossed all 6 warp threads and tied off on a pin at this point a dab of super glue sets the joint. This continues on 9 weft treads.
The net has now to be fastened to the cabin roof rail and the pole at the bottom of the net. This “pole” is a 3 mm dowel with holes drilled at intervals along its length. The ends are looped through the holes and back through a piece of black shrink sleeve making a secure joint. At the top a similar process of looping around the rail and securing with a piece of black shrink sleeve.finished the 1st scramble net.
“REPEAT” Sorry I forgot to show the board used to tie the warp and weft

Im no expert on war ships but I think a piece of equipment that is hand made is far better than a commercially manufactured one and yours look great

Hi Marky I am in a similar position re RC (first boat), but I've read all the books and really its not that complicated as modern RC seems to be made easy by the manufacturers, just make sure you count the number of channels you will need, I'm not sure I did! but we will see.

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Perseverance is the name of the game, never give up on a project its coming together now and is looking really good.

Just looked up a picture of your build and it looks like quite a complex build, so Ill be following with interest.
I'm please to see that I'm not the only one who has the resister chart permanently pinned to the wall for reference. The instructions look very well detailed as well, good luck with your build.

Graham, nicely done, something to be considered, I also found the solonoid valves restricted the flow too much, hence I was looking at piping straight from an entry scoop at the mid-ship point.

Planking always looks better than printed board its also all part of "making" a model

JB believe it or not I have just had delivered the exact same pump today I have yet to try it. The inlet pipe idea is a good one and I am looking at designing somthig similar but to go Mid-ship so as to avoid long pipe runs.
Martin, I think your correct, a separate system would be better, avoiding any valve requirements and possable starvation of the cooling system, its just the thoght of drilling a hole in my newly painted hull!
Michael

Graham the black pump does in fact provide more than enough water through a 3mm pipe. The pump operates at 6 - 12 volts and at 12v I think its too powerful so at 7.2volt it seems about right. I have also tried modifying the output by inserting small twisted shims fitted down the centre of the pipe this gives the effect of spreading the jet into a more convincing fire jet rather than a simple straight sided jet. Ill try and capture this in a video.

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Hi G6, the fan you mention seems a little expensive, and you say it has an inbuilt controller but I coudn't see it in the advert, or was it the one further down the page? and I'm not sure I understand the 25Khz PWM signal bit

Martin, I can still adjust the incoming air volume via the ring as my aluminium addition is a press fit on that ring, However I so far have just used it at 100% as the volume of smoke can be adjusted by varying the power side of the unit.
As for "air collector" I suspect that the amount of air being pushed into the contaner by the fan is far in excess or the volume of air that can be pushed through the exit pipes. This being the difference between a fan and a pump, a pump will pressurise a container, whereas a fan will not and therefore the smoke is forced back through the fan.
just a thought

Some fancy electronics comming up? Im just going to use the battery pack and electronics (less the aluminium case) for varying the power/volume of smoke available.
I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of your mechanisms, particullaly for moving the barrels up and down/round and round (a pictureis better than a 1000 words)

I have laid out all the various components on a building board, not necessarily in the correct orientation/position. The only thing I do know is that water needs to come out of the 4 pipes pointing into the tin.
I have a caravan pump serving as a water scoop (to simulate the water pickup as the boat moves forward) any water going through the system into the tin is piped back into the container under the bench where the pump is.
First thoughts are similar to others in that when the fire monitors are operated the water is drawn back through the exhaust pipes and sucks air. To try and solve this I have put some small solenoid valves in the circuit. But first test show that they restrict the flow too much so a larger valve? Or I think the easiest solution would be to put another entry opening in the hull somewhere near the pump just below the water line on the side mid-ship so the pump can be connected directly and be primed when the boat is at a standstill (anybody see problems with this?) I think the only issue I can see is that when the boats in motion it may force water through the pump – then the monitor result – drip, drip. I think a properly designed inlet, that when in motion the tendency is to draw the air out of the system and not force water in until the boat is at a standstill when the water should just flow in. I have designed another outlet (not shown) for the exit of the cooling water and hopefully the smoke which has the water coming out of the centre 6mm pipe and the smoke exits through the surrounding space between the 6mm pipe and the 8mm surrounding hole.
(Ignore the black pump, top right, it was a first attempt at a water supply, it’s a car washer pump, but not powerful enough)

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Thanks for all the nice comment re the finish. I have to say - yes it does take an awful lot of preparation and to be honest I was also surprised at the final colour finish, it still will be flattened with 1500 wet and dry and then a final gloss lacquer after the transfers are added.
Peter Red Oxide? is indeed red oxide and for its final finsh it will be lacquered with a satin finish I actually bought it from Halfords (Simoniz acrylic, see picture). For general information all the other paint work is in cellulose which I use a compressor and top fill spray gun similar to the one in the picture. I hope that helps.

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JB your exactly right, I got mine from a friend who over time had worked his way through a number of machines until he found his comfort zone (machine) so I was the beneficiary of all the discarded ones most of which are very little used if at all. However as you say work to be done on silencing the pump unit, I have another pump on order to try, I post the results of it and the electrical bit.

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I’m not going to give details of painting blow by blow as it’s as bad as watching the paint dry and I’m sure most people are aware of the amount of time the preparations for painting take. So here are a number of pictures of the painting process, sorry miss the red oxide and the deck pictures. The whole boat is now complete with colour and only needs lacquering which will be done after the transfers are applied.

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Have to Doug I had the same issue and I was only able to solve it by logging in through facebook! don't know why
Steven was helpful but still couldnt solve it, however Im logged in now.

I think I will dismantle the battery unit as it is very heavy, the batteries weigh about 70 grams and the case is 150 grams so I am going to dismantle it and house it some other way, Its usefull to keep the electronics as you can vary the power output therefore the amount of smoke to a point where the boat would dissapear in a cloud of smoke.

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exactly right, Im just making the exit device which will take the water and smoke out, water through the middle and smoke around the outside of the water, Ill post some pictures asap.

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Hi Martin the unit will be permanently fixed its easily filled in position through the slide top and the amount required for my boat is minimal and one fill will last ages. I just thought its was an easy solution to the smoking subject.

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I thought I might try the simplest way to produce smoke and just reverse the “vapours” way of using a standard E cig unit. I was given a couple of units which were no longer needed and decide to modify the unit. I machined an aluminium ring which fitted around the air intake at the bottom; the ring has a groove machined internally to allow the air to circulate around the dual intake. A 4mm drilled hole which is drilled into the groove has a 4mm brass tube inserted. The brass tube connects a small pump via a silicon tube which blows air into the device. The battery pack will have to be modified to fit in the boat but this was just to prove the system. It produces more than enough smoke for my crash tender which will just have a scale amount of exhaust smoke, hopefully. I intend piping the smoke through the rear using a custom made water/smoke exit unit which keeps the two components separate, watch this space

smoker unit for model boat

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I thought I might try the simplest way to produce smoke and just reverse the “vapours” way of using a standard E cig unit. I was given a couple of units which were no longer needed and decide to modify the unit. I machined an aluminium ring which fitted around the air intake at the bottom; the ring has a groove machined internally to allow the air to circulate around the dual intake. A 4mm drilled hole which is drilled into the groove has a 4mm brass tube inserted. The brass tube connects a small pump via a silicon tube which blows air into the device. The battery pack will have to be modified to fit in the boat but this was just to prove the system. It produces more than enough smoke for my crash tender which will just have a scale amount of exhaust smoke, hopefully. I intend piping the smoke through the rear using a custom made water/smoke exit unit which keeps the two components separate, watch this space

smoker unit for model boat

▶️

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A nice box of bling!