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    mturpin013
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    Member No.#4473
    RegisteredπŸ“…15th Sep 2017
    Last OnlineπŸ“…2nd Mar 2024
    CityπŸ“Leeds
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ’¬ Re: Rigging
    3 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 13 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi flaxbybuck the 4mm eyes will screw down into the hull, the only part visible will be the three eyes on each fitting that attach to the turnbuckles along with a touch of epoxy
    PS I may put a nut directly under the brass fitting as well

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    πŸ“ Rigging
    5 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 38 Views · 12 Likes · 5 Comments
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    The rigging for each mast was originally fastened to the deck with a rather unsightly piece of brass wire looped through the deck and glued underneath. I was sure I could improve on this however it may not be to everybody’s taste but a you may have noticed if there’s an easy way and a hard way I usually go for the hard way which tends to be much more time consuming and more difficult but for me much more enjoyable.
    I wanted the rigging to be easily assembled at the lakeside so attaching the wires must be easily done; each wire has a turnbuckle at its end to tension the wires with an attachment point directly by a 4mm eye. I have decided to use a fishermen’s device, which is normally for attaching a trace wire (I think) it’s just a quick way of attaching the wire (this may change on final assembly it could end up as a simple hook (picture later)) This device then attaches to the eye, which is fastened to the deck. As I said in the original plan, it shows a piece of 1mm brass wire pushed through the deck and epoxied under the deck leaving a loop on deck. Although this works, I wanted to do something a bit more robust and challenging and bring a bit of finesse to the yacht. Therefore, I produced a fitting for each of the four securing positions.

    These were made from 1.5mm brass sheet which was cut and filed to the double bulge on deck and straight on the sides the joint line was also filed to the curve of the sides to make a snug fit the two pieces were then silver soldered to form an angle piece. After trimming and polishing each piece had the 3 holes drilled and tapped M2 to take treaded eye bolt fitting, these will go through the deck and help make a secure fitting

    πŸ“ Best sail material for yachts ?
    10 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 33 Views · 1 Like
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    The real yacht, I'm not sure when the real yacht was first built.

    πŸ“ Best sail material for yachts ?
    11 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 53 Views · 2 Likes
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    Thanks Chris, Ill be interested in your findings.

    πŸ“ Best sail material for yachts ?
    11 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 55 Views · 7 Likes
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    Do we have any experts in sail making, especially material types
    I'm making sails for an Inga IV



    blogs/108353
    πŸ’¬ Re: CGINGA1V
    23 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 25 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Chris not been on the site for a while however your alternative build seems to be going really well I look forward to seeing the finished yacht

    πŸ’¬ Re: Updated mechanism
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 57 Views · 8 Likes
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    Great stuff Graham I'm glad to see you back. It seems a lot of the old crew have not been very active lately, I'm not sure if that's a permanent situation, I hope not.
    Anyway back to your latest creation, as you will remember I'm more the mechanical solution type and I really admire your electronic ability, I'm afraid as soon as the wires enter the circuit board I'm lost.

    πŸ“ Motor and prop shaft issues
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 67 Views · 7 Likes
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    Your noise is simply the joint, you would be better spending your time aligning the shaft and motor exactly and using a solid joint, use some hard rubber in your motor mount which will remove most of the noise transmitted though the solid mounting and the hull acting like an old horn gramophone.

    πŸ“ Non true brass prop shaft in a kit.
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 77 Views · 5 Likes
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    The only way is to hold the shaft in a lathe chuck and using a dial indicator tap it until it reads true
    I have found many commercial shafts out of true and so I always make my own they are so easy to make not requiring any specialist machines just hand tools. I use K&N brass tube and standard silver steel with Olite or phosphor bronze bushes in each end. The most difficult part is threading the shaft but with care can be done successfully (agreed best done in the lathe), and its cheaper.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Ra IngaIV finished ?
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 21 Views · 2 Likes
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    Well done for a great job a really nice piece of design.
    I wish I were near to finishing mine as I have a steam powered model waiting in the wings

    πŸ’¬ Re: Window frame
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 43 Views · 4 Likes
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    Beautiful work you must be really pleased with the result

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    πŸ“ Again back to the masts.
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 70 Views · 13 Likes · 3 Comments
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    The masts are proving to be a monumental task, who would think the addition of a few LEDs would cause such an amount of additional work however, this is the part I enjoy solving problems and making things. In a past page I showed the wires being hidden in a brass tube going up the mast (it was previously used as an aerial), it was now time to attach the LEDs and devise a cover of some sort.
    First attach the LEDs leaving as much wire as possible to enable the LEDs to be fixed in the housings and also to solder to and as close to the shortened legs of the LEDs without damaging them and making it as small as possible. I think I can contain the LEDs in a space measuring 12 x 6 x 6.and a strap to fasten them to the Mast.
    I want to keep the cover in keeping with all the other fittings of the Yacht so I’m using 0.010" brass sheet . To make a container of suitable size I am going to make a press tool to form them making them uniform throughout. A small piece of brass bar will be durable enough to make a press tool that will last for 10 containers. Using a 6mm slot drill I cut the required slots using removable end pieces making it easier to remove the finished parts from the tool.
    I first cut the developed shape in a piece of thin card to test the tool. Satisfied that it will work I make a first sample test piece in 0.010” brass sheet, placing it in position I pull down on the drill press, the piece folds, but tears on one corner, the solution is to pre-bend the sides before using the press tool so that the wings I’ll be soldering don’t catch as it folds. A second sample proves much more satisfactory and forms a very pleasing result. Fast Forward and cut another 9 sample developed pieces and hope they bend up as good as the first one, they do.
    The next job is to make another jig to hold the box while the wings are soldered to secure the box shape this is simply a piece of wood with pins to hold the shape as its soldered. I now have to drill all the holes, one for the LEDs and two fastening holes either side. Each box is trimmed and polished before finally fitting each one to the mast. I need to ensure that there is no possibility of short circuit so I made 10 more boxes out of thin paper, which I can glue in position. I will leave them off the mast until final assembly.

    πŸ’¬ Re: CGInga 1V
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 70 Views · 1 Like
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    That's an interesting change of plan, My next project is a similar dilemma as its a hull with a different superstructure with sails and a steam plant

    πŸ’¬ Re: Rudders
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 57 Views · 1 Like
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    This isn't really a build blog its more suited to the forum.
    Ask the administrator to move it Its Stephen, he is in the support section

    πŸ’¬ Re: Running light colors?
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 72 Views · 5 Likes
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    Aft Running Light = ? white
    Mast Running Light = ?white
    Mast Light = ?white
    Masthead Top Light = ?white

    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 86 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Flaxbybuck, your sort of right however, the travel on sail winch mechanism is the same as the shortest boom, and the attachment points for the two longer booms are located at this same distance from their masts.
    Or this is my present thinking it may change when I get the masts finished there's' all the metalwork to be plated yet, then I can try the theory I my end up using some reduction pullies.

    πŸ’¬ Re: RAIngaIV rear cabin
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 40 Views · 4 Likes
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    Great result, the split cabin isn't an easy option as I also found, but it makes life easier when fully rigged. I note your excellent choice of colour scheme, the same as mine was that a coincidence?
    When I started mine18 months ago I had never seen or heard of an Inga IV and other people I spoke to also had not heard of the model and now there are 3

    πŸ’¬ Re: Window frames
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 90 Views · 3 Likes
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    Beautifully engineered it must have taken a lot of time and patience to make them out of sheet material
    can I offer another solution for a future system, use an appropriate channel section and use aluminium solder to join the corners, I was always sceptical about this aluminium solder so tried it out just prove it didn't work but guess what it does work and makes a strong joint and is easy to use - give it a go
    That's not to say what you have produced is in any way inferior I think they are great

    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 92 Views · 6 Likes
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    Thanks for all those positive comments it makes writing a blog worthwhile in so much as other members are benefiting and enjoying the blog

    Flaxbybuck,
    "Now you are using a sail winch I understand you will have sufficient travel to control the main sheet, but how are you achieving a lesser travel distance for the jib sheet ? (You have probably told us, and I have forgotten)"

    This will be achieved by changing the attachment points on the booms so they are all equal, or variable as required

    Why voltage boosters are needed
    The LEDs up each mast (5 in all) are in series therefore the voltage needed is higher the benefit is you need less wires running up the mast (in a brass channel)

    πŸ“ Electrics
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 106 Views · 19 Likes · 8 Comments
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    The electrics consist of one 7.2Volt battery to power everything that being:-
    1 power switch and fuse
    2 ESC – motor/ propeller
    3 Receiver - Sail winch – Rudder - lights
    4 lighting – cabin – navigation – stern – bow - 2 masts
    I have made a black Perspex mounting which will support all the electric/electronic equipment/components. There are two voltage boosters to increase the voltage to power the LEDS on the masts, these have yet to be finalised.
    The two masts have power wires running up inside and are terminated with a 3mm jack and a socket, which is mounted beneath each mast socket so there’s no need for any connection of wires during set up at the lake, just drop the mast into its socket.

    πŸ“ Cabins
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 112 Views · 13 Likes · 1 Comment
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    The cabins are in a poor shape, the veneer is cracked and lifting in many places, and the wood (balsa) is very dry with little strength. In order to strengthen the whole structures I decided to give it a coat of EasyKote and a layer of 1oz glass cloth, this will solve the cracking veneer and the weak balsa. The next process was 2 coats of red oxide primer giving a base for filling of any dents and cracks with body filler. The final finish will be white and Light green, the same colours as the hull
    The inside of the cabin was not very good and a bit rough to say the least. It’s a difficult area to prepare the surface for painting. Therefore, I have decided to line it with white plasti card, cutting the various shapes to be glued in position with a contact adhesive, I used this method in my Marlin Cabin Cruiser to great effect.
    The rear cabin is a problem because it has a mast going through the middle and if you need access to the rear cabin contents once the yacht is fully rigged ready for sailing it would mean removing the mast – not an option. The solution is to have the rear cabin split in two so it can be removed one side at a time. The cabin is held together with magnets and makes a sold unit when in place

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    πŸ“ The rudder
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 116 Views · 6 Likes · 4 Comments
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    The rudder has been playing on my mind ever since I started this project. It only had a very small actuation arm when you consider the size of the rudder. It appears that once fitted the rudder is permanent and cannot be removed. The access is also very restricted through an opening 45mm x 45mm. I may consider making this larger.
    So major surgery is required, I cut through the rudder shaft at the bottom pivot allowing the rudder shaft to be removed freeing the rudder I now have to figure out a method of replacing the rudder with a removable system. I had to cut free the tube within the rudder to be able to replace it with a larger tube, 4mm bore. The shaft now has a 4mm thread on the top, which can support a larger arm. At the bottom of the rudder is a small treaded hole which takes an 8BA screw through it to secure it in position. The rudder is now actuated by a remote servo set near to the middle of the yacht where there is more space, and a Bowden cable runs to the stern.

    πŸ“ AliExpress
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 50 Views · 8 Likes
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    Don't forget that most if not all model shops do an on line service. This should be your first port of call if you want the remaining shops to keep on trading. I get all my parts from my local model shop (The Leeds Model Shop)
    Support your shops in preference to Ebay, Amozon, Ali Express, Bangood etc.

    πŸ“ Things that never work right
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 77 Views · 7 Likes
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    Xt60 connectors are my favoured connector


    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265594415117?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1
    πŸ“ Bearing ends for prop tube
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 67 Views · 7 Likes
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    Phosphor bronze is the best bearing material however brass is adequate for the amount of side pressure that is made with a shaft and a brass bearing of about .250" (6.35mm) in length x 2 (one at each end).
    Silver Steel BS1407 Tolerance for diameters less than 1" are Β± 0.00025" on nominal diameter.
    So measure your stock bar and go for a clearance for a plain bearing fit of
    Minimum 0.0010" = 0.0254mm
    Maximum 0.0015" = 0.0381mm.

    In terms of producing this "FIT" its best achieved by drilling 0.0010" smaller than required size and then reaming (without coolant)
    Reamers can be made to produce plus or minus from their stated size but this is something only an experienced engineer would be able to do.
    So If you are using only drills, first drill about 0.015" smaller and then with the finished size. If a test drilling produces a hole oversize then again a drill can be made to drill smaller by touching the outer points with an oilstone to slightly blunt the cutting edge, we are however talking a small amount say 0.0005" to 0.001".
    Finally lubrication is essential so an oiling tube should be fitted of greased on a regular basis.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Typhoon Finished!!!
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 102 Views · 3 Likes
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    What a fantastic result you must be really pleased with it we are all looking forward to the maiden voyage

    πŸ“ Inga1v
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 36 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Chris I hadn't really given it a thought, but I suppose for those following the Blogs it may be helpful if we both add something to the titles so followers can identify which blog is which.
    I can imagine followers might have thought that the blogs seemed to jump about a bit having viewed one then the other and loosing some continuity.
    I will ask Stephen if he can add our initials before The words Inga IV
    eg MT Inga IV and CG Inga IV if that's OK with you

    πŸ“ Back to the masts
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 128 Views · 11 Likes
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    Now that the masts sockets are fitted the masts need to be finished. As I mentioned before I have inserted a brass tube running up the length of the mast initially to carry a wire to the top. However as the tube came in 300mm lengths I decide to put an LED every 300mm maybe a row of red and a row of green (just because I can) These will need a power supply . I also wanted the masts to be easily removable without any wires to be connected so at the bottom of each mast is a Jack plug, the socket is mounted at the base of each tube

    πŸ“ Inga1v
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 64 Views · 8 Likes
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    I don't know whether your aware there are 2 blogs running about the Inga IV here's the link for mine


    blogs/108353
    πŸ“ Making the winch system
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 139 Views · 19 Likes · 3 Comments
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    I have worked out that I need 390mm for the main sail to move a distance to bring it to 90 degrees to the hull. However the two other sails don’t need as much so I think the solution will be to attach each line to the appropriate point on each boom so the distance travelled will be the same for each sail.
    The winch is a HiTec 785 HB, which with a drum that gives a cord pull of 390mm at 3.25 revolutions. The winch can be set to different revolutions by altering the end points on the transmitter which makes it easy to set the length of cord that is wound onto the drum.
    I found in some early mock ups that as the cord is wound onto the drum and overlaps each previous revolution,the cord gets tighter which means some sort of tensioning system will be required to allow the tension to remain the same throughout the 3.25 revolutions. I think a spring which applies tension to the winch will allow it to move back and forth as the tension varies, A spring in the line is the easiest solution but it takes away some of the available travel distance.
    The size and shape of the hull means I will have to run the cord around a system of pulleys, which look a bit odd but is required to enable the unit to be removed from the hull in one piece making it easier to run the cord around the pulleys.
    There will be three attachments to the cord run, two on the port side and one on the starboard, each then running into copper tubes, which ultimately end up on the deck. Each exit tube is anchored to the appropriate pulley leading the cord to the next tube that takes the cord to the deck.
    The Mizzen and Foremasts are relatively easy to guide the cord as they leave the pulley via a copper tube and then to another tube that goes up to the deck. The main mast is somewhat more difficult as it exits through the top of the cabin, so this cord leave the pulley and then goes up through a copper tube and exits through a brass ferrule on top of a pillar.
    In the pictures you will see the trial system on plywood which demonstrates the general layout works , however as mentioned before about tension in the system it tended to bend the 4mm ply so a more substansial,6mm Perspex is being used in the final product.
    I have looked at a number of different attachment options , being the Knot, the cable connecter, the Fishing snap Swivels which may be the best option, to be confirmed.



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