Thanks to all for your encouraging and kind comments, but more importantly welcome back to Martin I'm glad your feeling better.

Once again Graham, a beautiful piece of brass work

A sad day for GB

4 points for painting
1) min temp in room 20 degrees 1 hour before with the item in the room
2) stand paint tin in warm water before painting and shake well (2 mins)
3) be patient use only light coats allow to dry between coats
4) keep temp at 20 degrees for an hour after painting

Graham I wish you'd stop tempting me with pictures of that plane that's not for sale!
But the brass bits are great, well executed.

Hi Martin great to see you back

Brass capping
One of the things evident on the real craft is the brass capping on the rear cabin supports, I’m not sure of its purpose other than it could be an area of wear as officers bend to enter the cabin, however I’m not questioning its purpose but wanting to make my model as near the original as possible so I cut some strips of brass sheet 1mm thick x 5.5mm wide, I do this using a fine toothed slitting saw in the milling machine cutting a strip of any width I want and leaving a “ buckle free” strip unlike you get using tin snips. I then make a pencil trace of the shape and use this to bend the brass strip to shape. It now requires some 0.5 mm holes to allow me to pin the strips to the wood, adding some epoxy resin to make a tight fitting rail.
Spray rail
Next is the spray rail on the roof, this looks a simple enough item but it requires to be bent in 3 plains (roof curve, sweepback, and lean back) so I decided to laminate the piece on a jig with the same forms as the roof. It made fitting to the roofs shape much easier with minimal trimming. I held the rail on using 0.5 mm pins these were drilling into the underside of the rail and glued in place, leaving about 3mm proud to go through the cabin roof. Marking the position of the pins on the roof is easily done by placing a piece of masking tape on a piece of expanded polystyrene and then just pushing into the tape and polystyrene this leaves holes in the tape which can now be transferred to the cabin roof in the correct position the marked holes can then be drilled through in the exact position. I use some canopy adhesive on the underside of the rail to secure it in position.
Window frames
The manufacture of the window frames was detailed earlier and all that is required now is to secure them in position. I use a 2mm wide extra strong double sided tape which I found to be capable of securing aluminium sheet whilst machining! (The dash board). This tape was placed along the back face of all the frames and then each frame was positioned and pressed firmly home, the tape reaches its maximum strength after 12 hours and believe me it’s really difficult to remove when fully cured.
Hand rails
These again were detailed earlier and only needed to be glued in place and as with the spray rails I used the tape transfer method to position the holes and a small amount of canopy adhesive on each leg then pushed home.
Kent clearview
This little detail was made from black Perspex, I machined an outer ring and centre stud and then a small triangular piece extending to the centre stud was hand fashioned then all tree pieces were stuck to the front window with canopy glue.
Life ring and horns
Both these details had been previously made and trial fitted so it was a simple attachment job using the 8BA studs in the bases.
Search light
This item has already been tested so all that’s required is to bolt it in position and feed the wires through into the cabin; I made provision for the electrical connection so a plug is crimped on the wires and plugged into the distribution board.

Here you go

http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com/onlineshop/product_info.php/language/en/info/p1207_Graupner-L-schmonitor-Typ--Seabex----2-St-ck----337.html

🔗

Hi Graham, once again a nice piece of both brass work and painting, its now looking really good and as Rob says hard to tell the model from the real thing.

Hi Geoff, that's a nice job you've made of the cabin, it looks great

Are the fitting from Vintage Model Works? I made mine working monitors so they rotate on a 5mm tube, however I would suggest that you drill a clear hole in the top piece and thread the bottom something like 10 BA 0r M2
PS they are made of white metal

Doug I see what you were saying, it is a result of the angle I've taken the picture, from slightly above and the water line actually disappears onto the flat width of the chine (not visible) and reappears slightly further along giving the appearance of nearly thinning completely.

Hi Doug I see what you mean about the water line it does look bent in these pictures. I did as Rob does and used a laser to mark the line then followed the marks with the trim line in white, However even when I look at it it looks a bit odd depending where you look at it from. The final situation is - It won't sink even if the line isn't truly on the WATER - I hope. Ill try and doe some pics when I get chance - too busy in the garden at the moment.

This part of the build is a delicate one, First the water line has been applied and I must ensure that it is firmly stuck without any tiny edges coming loose especially where the line crosses the chine and around the bow and two corners on the stern. Having made sure all is stuck, then the hull gets three coats of satin lacquer.

Hi Rob, that's funny I've been doing exactly the same, I am a keen gardener and grow all my own plants so this time of year is really busy and for some reason the weeds continue to grow despite my efforts to kill them.

Hi Doug, I have the Hobbywing Quicrun WP 16BL30 Waterproof Brushless ESC and the program card Hobbywing XERUN/EZRUN Program Card C and it works fine in the Police Boat (yet to see water though), It was on your recommendation if you remember Thanks again
Michael

Hi Nerys I'm not sure they both fulfil the same purpose in the long term as you say "a similar outcome", so Ill pay the price for my peace of mind.

Ok Doug that's fine

Hi Nerys. You did ask for opinions/comments as to the "that adhesion does not appear to take place as quickly as it used to."
I was just offering my opinion as to why this is happening.
However you seem to be quite happy with the product so STICK with it.

Doug, I think you've misread my thoughts.
"The research that these companies invest in is huge" I was referring to the giant companies who do invest in R&D and then the "pound landers" copy products with inferior results.

That's right Rob I'm at the stage where I keep finding bits I've not finished and they then they tend to take longer to complete as I have to get my brain in gear as to where I was and what I did.
But I'm still really enjoying this build
PS I was worried you'd stopped posting but 'ha ho' here you are (when's the next project coming?) the site seems short of content lately or is it that you have left a great void?😜

"BTW, for newcomers to Hobbywing their ESC range is called 'Quicrun'."
HI Doug I've fitted a Quicrun ESC in my Police boat (nearly complete) and it compared well with anything Hobby KING had to offer.

Pound land do have some good products however when I need a product that is to be used on "critical" areas of my build I always use a branded product.
The research that these companies invest in is huge and it results are products that work in my experience. Unfortunately these products are often copied by companies who don't do the research and as such end up with products that are inferior and sold through such shops as pound land.
I appreciate that not all modellers want to use branded products but my comment is based on my experience in industry using a vast array of adhesives as well as my modelling in retirement.
Happy sticking

Hi peter fortunately the internet doesn't care where you are in the world so you can keep using the web site.
As for the move yes, a great idea I'm sure we all look forward to following your move, so I hope all goes well
Michael

The rear seat is almost the same construction as the battery cover at the bow albeit square with no angled top, the space for equipment at the rear is quite tight and to make it look like a seat things will have to be compact. We have the ESC and receiver along with all the wires from the cabin and the motor, also the water cooling system all to be contained under the seat.
Again the frame is made from 5mm x 5mm walnut and the magnets are inserted in pairs into the wood to make sure the polarity is correct. I can then make up the frame to cover all the items and glue/pin it together. When the frame is set I can cut pieces if 1.5mm thick walnut sheet and edge it in 5 x 5mm walnut then glue it to the frame. Finally both the front battery cover and the seat will get a couple of coats of satin lacquer.

Here is the reply from Hull MBC

Philip Parsons
08:17 (11 hours ago)
to me

Hi Michael.
The Hull Model Boat Club operates from Kelsey Lakes near Burstwick. Normally meet on Sats and Weds. Hope to resume after COVID. If you’d like to join let me know and I’ll put you on our WhatsApp group

My number is 07831 442277

Phil Parsons
rightstuffer@me.com

On 28 Mar 2021, at 20:06, Michael Turpin wrote:

Its getting near to launch time, I hope we'll see some video's

A lovely piece of woodworking and I particularly like the brass work, persistence always pays off
great job.

That's looking good but I would have thought there would have been some stringers, at least along the top to keep the hull straight whilst planking.

I've emailed the secretary