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    mturpin013
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    Member No.#4473
    RegisteredπŸ“…15th Sep 2017
    Last OnlineπŸ“…18th Mar 2024
    CityπŸ“Leeds
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
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    Recent Posts
    πŸ“ Full Steam Ahead
    2 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 13 Views · 4 Likes
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    Gary , yes I think your right because I was surprised by the weight of the boiler alone when I unpack it ,so yes I will be making that check first.
    Andi1 the blog on the Inga iv is already a long way through


    blogs/108353
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    πŸ“ Full Steam Ahead
    4 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 56 Views · 15 Likes
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    I placed an order last September for my Christmas present from my wife and it arrived today. The push that made me go for steam was after a visit to a fellow modeller who is a "master of steam" and he showed me around his most impressive workshop and the steam models he had made.

    GaryLC (Captain) kindly gave me a twin cylinder oscillating steam engine and a hull to get me started in steam.
    So Gary we are "Full Steam Ahead"

    PS it may be a while before I start the new project as I have the Inga IV yacht to finish first.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Winch setup finally decided
    12 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 62 Views · 2 Likes
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    Great winch layout

    πŸ’¬ Re: Wheelhouse Windows
    12 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 31 Views · 3 Likes
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    Very inventive way of cutting out the windows, I did exactly the same when cutting my window frames for the Marlin only using a mini pedestal drill

    πŸ’¬ Re: MV Sarinda
    12 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 32 Views · 0 Likes
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    Some great pictures as they say-
    "A picture paints a thousand words", however some words would be good to explain your building techniques, that would help others in their quest to improve their building skills.

    πŸ“ Sea rover cabin cruiser
    12 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 69 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Schmango it would have been nice to see some pictures of the detailed work you carried out.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 5
    13 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 23 Views · 6 Likes
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    Hi Flax, your system is very much like mine as you say it needs to be removed easily I also have just 2 screws to remove the whole winch system

    πŸ’¬ Re: Rigging
    18 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 17 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi flaxbybuck the 4mm eyes will screw down into the hull, the only part visible will be the three eyes on each fitting that attach to the turnbuckles along with a touch of epoxy
    PS I may put a nut directly under the brass fitting as well

    πŸ“ Rigging
    20 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 41 Views · 13 Likes · 5 Comments
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    The rigging for each mast was originally fastened to the deck with a rather unsightly piece of brass wire looped through the deck and glued underneath. I was sure I could improve on this however it may not be to everybody’s taste but a you may have noticed if there’s an easy way and a hard way I usually go for the hard way which tends to be much more time consuming and more difficult but for me much more enjoyable.
    I wanted the rigging to be easily assembled at the lakeside so attaching the wires must be easily done; each wire has a turnbuckle at its end to tension the wires with an attachment point directly by a 4mm eye. I have decided to use a fishermen’s device, which is normally for attaching a trace wire (I think) it’s just a quick way of attaching the wire (this may change on final assembly it could end up as a simple hook (picture later)) This device then attaches to the eye, which is fastened to the deck. As I said in the original plan, it shows a piece of 1mm brass wire pushed through the deck and epoxied under the deck leaving a loop on deck. Although this works, I wanted to do something a bit more robust and challenging and bring a bit of finesse to the yacht. Therefore, I produced a fitting for each of the four securing positions.

    These were made from 1.5mm brass sheet which was cut and filed to the double bulge on deck and straight on the sides the joint line was also filed to the curve of the sides to make a snug fit the two pieces were then silver soldered to form an angle piece. After trimming and polishing each piece had the 3 holes drilled and tapped M2 to take treaded eye bolt fitting, these will go through the deck and help make a secure fitting

    πŸ“ Best sail material for yachts ?
    25 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 35 Views · 1 Like
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    The real yacht, I'm not sure when the real yacht was first built.

    πŸ“ Best sail material for yachts ?
    26 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 55 Views · 2 Likes
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    Thanks Chris, Ill be interested in your findings.

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    πŸ“ Best sail material for yachts ?
    26 days ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 57 Views · 7 Likes
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    Do we have any experts in sail making, especially material types
    I'm making sails for an Inga IV



    blogs/108353
    πŸ’¬ Re: CGINGA1V
    1 month ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 26 Views · 1 Like
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    Hi Chris not been on the site for a while however your alternative build seems to be going really well I look forward to seeing the finished yacht

    πŸ’¬ Re: Updated mechanism
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 58 Views · 8 Likes
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    Great stuff Graham I'm glad to see you back. It seems a lot of the old crew have not been very active lately, I'm not sure if that's a permanent situation, I hope not.
    Anyway back to your latest creation, as you will remember I'm more the mechanical solution type and I really admire your electronic ability, I'm afraid as soon as the wires enter the circuit board I'm lost.

    πŸ“ Motor and prop shaft issues
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 69 Views · 7 Likes
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    Your noise is simply the joint, you would be better spending your time aligning the shaft and motor exactly and using a solid joint, use some hard rubber in your motor mount which will remove most of the noise transmitted though the solid mounting and the hull acting like an old horn gramophone.

    πŸ“ Non true brass prop shaft in a kit.
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 78 Views · 5 Likes
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    The only way is to hold the shaft in a lathe chuck and using a dial indicator tap it until it reads true
    I have found many commercial shafts out of true and so I always make my own they are so easy to make not requiring any specialist machines just hand tools. I use K&N brass tube and standard silver steel with Olite or phosphor bronze bushes in each end. The most difficult part is threading the shaft but with care can be done successfully (agreed best done in the lathe), and its cheaper.

    πŸ’¬ Re: Ra IngaIV finished ?
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 22 Views · 2 Likes
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    Well done for a great job a really nice piece of design.
    I wish I were near to finishing mine as I have a steam powered model waiting in the wings

    πŸ’¬ Re: Window frame
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 44 Views · 4 Likes
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    Beautiful work you must be really pleased with the result

    πŸ“ Again back to the masts.
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 72 Views · 13 Likes · 3 Comments
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    The masts are proving to be a monumental task, who would think the addition of a few LEDs would cause such an amount of additional work however, this is the part I enjoy solving problems and making things. In a past page I showed the wires being hidden in a brass tube going up the mast (it was previously used as an aerial), it was now time to attach the LEDs and devise a cover of some sort.
    First attach the LEDs leaving as much wire as possible to enable the LEDs to be fixed in the housings and also to solder to and as close to the shortened legs of the LEDs without damaging them and making it as small as possible. I think I can contain the LEDs in a space measuring 12 x 6 x 6.and a strap to fasten them to the Mast.
    I want to keep the cover in keeping with all the other fittings of the Yacht so I’m using 0.010" brass sheet . To make a container of suitable size I am going to make a press tool to form them making them uniform throughout. A small piece of brass bar will be durable enough to make a press tool that will last for 10 containers. Using a 6mm slot drill I cut the required slots using removable end pieces making it easier to remove the finished parts from the tool.
    I first cut the developed shape in a piece of thin card to test the tool. Satisfied that it will work I make a first sample test piece in 0.010” brass sheet, placing it in position I pull down on the drill press, the piece folds, but tears on one corner, the solution is to pre-bend the sides before using the press tool so that the wings I’ll be soldering don’t catch as it folds. A second sample proves much more satisfactory and forms a very pleasing result. Fast Forward and cut another 9 sample developed pieces and hope they bend up as good as the first one, they do.
    The next job is to make another jig to hold the box while the wings are soldered to secure the box shape this is simply a piece of wood with pins to hold the shape as its soldered. I now have to drill all the holes, one for the LEDs and two fastening holes either side. Each box is trimmed and polished before finally fitting each one to the mast. I need to ensure that there is no possibility of short circuit so I made 10 more boxes out of thin paper, which I can glue in position. I will leave them off the mast until final assembly.

    πŸ’¬ Re: CGInga 1V
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 71 Views · 1 Like
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    That's an interesting change of plan, My next project is a similar dilemma as its a hull with a different superstructure with sails and a steam plant

    πŸ’¬ Re: Rudders
    2 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 58 Views · 1 Like
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    This isn't really a build blog its more suited to the forum.
    Ask the administrator to move it Its Stephen, he is in the support section

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    πŸ’¬ Re: Running light colors?
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 73 Views · 5 Likes
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    Aft Running Light = ? white
    Mast Running Light = ?white
    Mast Light = ?white
    Masthead Top Light = ?white

    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 88 Views · 3 Likes
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    Hi Flaxbybuck, your sort of right however, the travel on sail winch mechanism is the same as the shortest boom, and the attachment points for the two longer booms are located at this same distance from their masts.
    Or this is my present thinking it may change when I get the masts finished there's' all the metalwork to be plated yet, then I can try the theory I my end up using some reduction pullies.

    πŸ’¬ Re: RAIngaIV rear cabin
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 41 Views · 4 Likes
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    Great result, the split cabin isn't an easy option as I also found, but it makes life easier when fully rigged. I note your excellent choice of colour scheme, the same as mine was that a coincidence?
    When I started mine18 months ago I had never seen or heard of an Inga IV and other people I spoke to also had not heard of the model and now there are 3

    πŸ’¬ Re: Window frames
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 91 Views · 3 Likes
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    Beautifully engineered it must have taken a lot of time and patience to make them out of sheet material
    can I offer another solution for a future system, use an appropriate channel section and use aluminium solder to join the corners, I was always sceptical about this aluminium solder so tried it out just prove it didn't work but guess what it does work and makes a strong joint and is easy to use - give it a go
    That's not to say what you have produced is in any way inferior I think they are great

    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrics
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 94 Views · 6 Likes
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    Thanks for all those positive comments it makes writing a blog worthwhile in so much as other members are benefiting and enjoying the blog

    Flaxbybuck,
    "Now you are using a sail winch I understand you will have sufficient travel to control the main sheet, but how are you achieving a lesser travel distance for the jib sheet ? (You have probably told us, and I have forgotten)"

    This will be achieved by changing the attachment points on the booms so they are all equal, or variable as required

    Why voltage boosters are needed
    The LEDs up each mast (5 in all) are in series therefore the voltage needed is higher the benefit is you need less wires running up the mast (in a brass channel)

    πŸ“ Electrics
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 108 Views · 19 Likes · 8 Comments
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    The electrics consist of one 7.2Volt battery to power everything that being:-
    1 power switch and fuse
    2 ESC – motor/ propeller
    3 Receiver - Sail winch – Rudder - lights
    4 lighting – cabin – navigation – stern – bow - 2 masts
    I have made a black Perspex mounting which will support all the electric/electronic equipment/components. There are two voltage boosters to increase the voltage to power the LEDS on the masts, these have yet to be finalised.
    The two masts have power wires running up inside and are terminated with a 3mm jack and a socket, which is mounted beneath each mast socket so there’s no need for any connection of wires during set up at the lake, just drop the mast into its socket.

    πŸ“ Cabins
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 114 Views · 13 Likes · 1 Comment
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    The cabins are in a poor shape, the veneer is cracked and lifting in many places, and the wood (balsa) is very dry with little strength. In order to strengthen the whole structures I decided to give it a coat of EasyKote and a layer of 1oz glass cloth, this will solve the cracking veneer and the weak balsa. The next process was 2 coats of red oxide primer giving a base for filling of any dents and cracks with body filler. The final finish will be white and Light green, the same colours as the hull
    The inside of the cabin was not very good and a bit rough to say the least. It’s a difficult area to prepare the surface for painting. Therefore, I have decided to line it with white plasti card, cutting the various shapes to be glued in position with a contact adhesive, I used this method in my Marlin Cabin Cruiser to great effect.
    The rear cabin is a problem because it has a mast going through the middle and if you need access to the rear cabin contents once the yacht is fully rigged ready for sailing it would mean removing the mast – not an option. The solution is to have the rear cabin split in two so it can be removed one side at a time. The cabin is held together with magnets and makes a sold unit when in place

    πŸ“ The rudder
    3 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 117 Views · 6 Likes · 4 Comments
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    The rudder has been playing on my mind ever since I started this project. It only had a very small actuation arm when you consider the size of the rudder. It appears that once fitted the rudder is permanent and cannot be removed. The access is also very restricted through an opening 45mm x 45mm. I may consider making this larger.
    So major surgery is required, I cut through the rudder shaft at the bottom pivot allowing the rudder shaft to be removed freeing the rudder I now have to figure out a method of replacing the rudder with a removable system. I had to cut free the tube within the rudder to be able to replace it with a larger tube, 4mm bore. The shaft now has a 4mm thread on the top, which can support a larger arm. At the bottom of the rudder is a small treaded hole which takes an 8BA screw through it to secure it in position. The rudder is now actuated by a remote servo set near to the middle of the yacht where there is more space, and a Bowden cable runs to the stern.

    πŸ“ AliExpress
    4 months ago by πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ mturpin013 ( Admiral)
    ✧ 51 Views · 8 Likes
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    Don't forget that most if not all model shops do an on line service. This should be your first port of call if you want the remaining shops to keep on trading. I get all my parts from my local model shop (The Leeds Model Shop)
    Support your shops in preference to Ebay, Amozon, Ali Express, Bangood etc.



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