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The Marlin Cabin Cruiser (Vintage Model Works)
This the latest offering from Vintage Model Works which is a 36 inch Marlin Cabin Cruiser
This model was originally an important model release for Vernon, being the first of its kits that was large enough to take the bulky radio control gear of the day. It appeared in 1953 at 72s/11d (ยฃ94 today) and was reviewed in the November Model Maker who found the design, with its rounded cabin and open front cockpit, the 'nicest looking power boat yet kitted'. It was for 1cc to 5cc diesel power or a large electric motor such as the 12V Taco
However todays specification is somewhat different
Power โ Overlander T3548/05
Speed controller โ Hobbywing Quirun 90
Propeller โ 45mm 2 blade
Battery โ Turnigy 2200 Mah 3s 25c Lipo
Radio Flysky FS16x 6 channel
mturpin013
7 months ago
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Vosper MTB 379
This model was built with the occasional help of my grandson. It was constructed from plan
mturpin013
2 years ago
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RIVER POLICE LAUNCH circa 1950
METROPOLITAN POLICE THAMES DIVISION RIVER POLICE LAUNCH circa 1950
MODEL BUILT BY MICHAEL P TURPIN 2021 TO 1:12 SCALE
FROM VINTAGE MODEL WORKS KIT
At this scale, the model represents a launch measuring 30ft in length and 8ft 9โ in the beam. It is one of the standard types as built by Tough Brothers of Teddington, employing the partially diagonal planking system which produces a lightweight but strong hull. The engine was of sufficient power to provide an efficient speed of 12 knots in the tidal waters in which it operates. The cabin and seating has been designed such that it is possible to keep an all-around look out whilst on patrol, as well as an open stern area capable for carrying equipment and the recovery of bodies from the water. Operating from their headquarters at Wapping, London the River Police are responsible for law and order on the river. Previous to 1964, they patrolled the Thames from Erith to Teddington but subsequently this range was changed to cover from Dartford Creek to Staines.
The model has some construction differences. The hull is ply-sheeted and not planked, and has a box construction for the main internal space. The deck is planked using walnut, as are all its wooden fittings.
All metalwork and above-deck fittings are scratch built, the spotlight illuminates and the mast head carries flashing red & blue lights.
Power - Turnigy 3548 840KV out-runner brushless motor.
Electronic Speed Controller โ Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL 30 water cooled.
Brass propeller -55 mm 3 blades.
Battery pack - Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack.
Radio โFlysky FS-I6X 10 channel.
Main power switch is the steering wheel and has a dash board which is illuminated. The battery pack, which powers the main motor and the lights through a voltage reduction unit, is housed below the front panel
Receiver, ESC and steering servo are all housed beneath the rear seat and back bulkhead.
mturpin013
3 years ago
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Freeman 22
The Freeman 22 was a luxurious cabin cruiser built for the holiday trade. It was moulded in glass fibre in a choice of colours and had an insulated superstructure, with a double berth and two single berths. It was powered by an in-board petrol engine.
Length - 22ft
Beam - 7ft 6ins
Draft - 2ft
Cruising speed - 8โ9 knots
Weight - 26cwt
Engine - Ford 105 E watermota with a 2:1 reduction gear on a flexible drive
The model of the Freeman 22 was a free plan given in the Model Boat magazine and was a project for my grandson who actively worked on all aspects of the build, the parts were all cut using a fret saw and trimmed with a sander and then built up on a building board. The hull is sheeted in ply as is the deck and superstructure. The hull was fibre glassed for additional strength and then painted using acrylic paints.
Length โ 23"
Beam - 7"
Power โ MFA Como 457RE540/1 brushed motor
Electronic Speed Controller โ Viper Marine 15
Brass propeller 30 mm 3 blade
Battery pack โ NiMh 9.6 V 5000 mAH
Radio - Turnigy Mini CH5 D/R
mturpin013
3 years ago
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Crash Tender
A 3 year build It has a lot of working detail - Fire monitors, spot light/rotates, cabin lights, cantilever cabin roof, detailed cabin interior, smoke unit
a little more detail:-
Hobbywing Seaking 120A-V3 Speed Controller
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5045-660KV Brushless Outrunner Motor
Hobbywing Boat ESC Programming Card
9.6v 50000 mah Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) Battery Packs x 2
Later replaced for longer run time by
Turnigy High Capacity 5200mAh 4S 12C LiHV Pack w/XT60 x 1
mturpin013
4 years ago
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Freeman 22 Norfolk broadsโ cruiser
This little boat was done for my 5yr old grandson alongside doing my crash tender. Its from a free plan issued in Model Boat magazine.
mturpin013
5 years ago
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Planking the side panels
On the real boat the side panels are actually the inside faces of the planked hull and are angled at about 45 degrees, so to try and simulate this I decided to plank some side panels to fit down the sides of the lower deck, Once again I used some 0.8 mm ply as a backing. The backing sheets were cut to the shape of the box side which is tapered towards the stern, next I cut lengths of plank at random to mix the different shades and the ends are cut to 45 degrees so they can be set against the bottom edge when gluing, these are then laid on the backing sheet in position ready for gluing.
The backing ply is stuck to the building matt (which in turn is stuck to the building board) with double sided tape, this will stop the sheet warping when the glue is drying, it also allows me to fasten a piece of wood along the bottom edge to push each plank against and also to rest the angled โply pusherโ (see picture) against it to ensure each plank is at 45 degrees and is pushed up against the corking.
I work from a full length plank first to give a firm piece to push subsequent planks against, I will work from this plank to the right and then finish planks to the left. The process is quite repetitive โ spread an area with glue just in front of the last plank then lay a strip of black card against that last plank making sure its covered in glue, then take the next plank and lay in the glue and using the angled โply pusherโ push the plank securely home, then remove any excess glue and repeat the process. This whole process takes about an hour to place all the planks in place, the side piece is then left to fully dry and the second side is prepared ready to glue.
Since the sides are planked with walnut timber its only right that the end sections are treated in the same manner to give a consistent look. For this I had already purchased some walnut veneer which I used on the motor housing. Pieces where cut to size for each end then the surfaces were coated with aliphatic glue and the veneer pushed against each end and pressed home using โply springsโ (bendy ply sticks)against a flat board. Once the ends are set I can then cut out the various apertures that were previously cut out for the wires, pipe ducts and fuse holders, these are carefully cut using taper cutters and small files.
There is a video clip showing my process, please forgive the background music and heavy breathing, it sounds like I'm on my last legs, it must be a very sensitive microphone on the camera
mturpin013
3 years ago
Recent Posts
๐ Deans Marine
12 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Unfortunately I had abusive language from Mr Dean some years ago when I queried a refund issue so I no longer use his services
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๐ฌ Re: CGINGA1V
13 days ago by
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Hi Chris I too haven't been on the site much myself so missed your post, anyway I hope your back on the road to recovery the progress looks good
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๐ City of Sheffield Tyne lifeboat
24 days ago by
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Hi Roger a great result a testament to your building skills.
A subject close to my heart, I look in despair sometimes at the flood of 3D printed parts that take away the traditional skill of model making from raw materials its nice to see your efforts.
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๐ Fibreglass hulls
1 month ago by
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I'm looking for a Hull length of 40" / 42" would be ideal, to carry a pay-load of around 6 LBs
Does anybody have details of a seller?
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๐ Full Steam Ahead
1 month ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Gary , yes I think your right because I was surprised by the weight of the boiler alone when I unpack it ,so yes I will be making that check first.
Andi1 the blog on the Inga iv is already a long way through
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๐ Full Steam Ahead
1 month ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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I placed an order last September for my Christmas present from my wife and it arrived today. The push that made me go for steam was after a visit to a fellow modeller who is a "master of steam" and he showed me around his most impressive workshop and the steam models he had made.
GaryLC (Captain) kindly gave me a twin cylinder oscillating steam engine and a hull to get me started in steam.
So Gary we are "Full Steam Ahead"
PS it may be a while before I start the new project as I have the Inga IV yacht to finish first.
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๐ฌ Re: Winch setup finally decided
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Great winch layout
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๐ฌ Re: Wheelhouse Windows
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Very inventive way of cutting out the windows, I did exactly the same when cutting my window frames for the Marlin only using a mini pedestal drill
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๐ฌ Re: MV Sarinda
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Some great pictures as they say-
"A picture paints a thousand words", however some words would be good to explain your building techniques, that would help others in their quest to improve their building skills.
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๐ Sea rover cabin cruiser
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Hi Schmango it would have been nice to see some pictures of the detailed work you carried out.
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๐ฌ Re: Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 5
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Hi Flax, your system is very much like mine as you say it needs to be removed easily I also have just 2 screws to remove the whole winch system
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๐ฌ Re: Rigging
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Hi flaxbybuck the 4mm eyes will screw down into the hull, the only part visible will be the three eyes on each fitting that attach to the turnbuckles along with a touch of epoxy
PS I may put a nut directly under the brass fitting as well
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๐ Rigging
2 months ago by
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๐ Best sail material for yachts ?
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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The real yacht, I'm not sure when the real yacht was first built.
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๐ Best sail material for yachts ?
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Thanks Chris, Ill be interested in your findings.
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๐ Best sail material for yachts ?
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Do we have any experts in sail making, especially material types
I'm making sails for an Inga IV
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๐ฌ Re: CGINGA1V
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Hi Chris not been on the site for a while however your alternative build seems to be going really well I look forward to seeing the finished yacht
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๐ฌ Re: Updated mechanism
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Great stuff Graham I'm glad to see you back. It seems a lot of the old crew have not been very active lately, I'm not sure if that's a permanent situation, I hope not.
Anyway back to your latest creation, as you will remember I'm more the mechanical solution type and I really admire your electronic ability, I'm afraid as soon as the wires enter the circuit board I'm lost.
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๐ Motor and prop shaft issues
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Your noise is simply the joint, you would be better spending your time aligning the shaft and motor exactly and using a solid joint, use some hard rubber in your motor mount which will remove most of the noise transmitted though the solid mounting and the hull acting like an old horn gramophone.
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๐ Non true brass prop shaft in a kit.
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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The only way is to hold the shaft in a lathe chuck and using a dial indicator tap it until it reads true
I have found many commercial shafts out of true and so I always make my own they are so easy to make not requiring any specialist machines just hand tools. I use K&N brass tube and standard silver steel with Olite or phosphor bronze bushes in each end. The most difficult part is threading the shaft but with care can be done successfully (agreed best done in the lathe), and its cheaper.
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๐ฌ Re: Ra IngaIV finished ?
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Well done for a great job a really nice piece of design.
I wish I were near to finishing mine as I have a steam powered model waiting in the wings
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๐ฌ Re: Window frame
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Beautiful work you must be really pleased with the result
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๐ Again back to the masts.
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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The masts are proving to be a monumental task, who would think the addition of a few LEDs would cause such an amount of additional work however, this is the part I enjoy solving problems and making things. In a past page I showed the wires being hidden in a brass tube going up the mast (it was previously used as an aerial), it was now time to attach the LEDs and devise a cover of some sort.
First attach the LEDs leaving as much wire as possible to enable the LEDs to be fixed in the housings and also to solder to and as close to the shortened legs of the LEDs without damaging them and making it as small as possible. I think I can contain the LEDs in a space measuring 12 x 6 x 6.and a strap to fasten them to the Mast.
I want to keep the cover in keeping with all the other fittings of the Yacht so Iโm using 0.010" brass sheet . To make a container of suitable size I am going to make a press tool to form them making them uniform throughout. A small piece of brass bar will be durable enough to make a press tool that will last for 10 containers. Using a 6mm slot drill I cut the required slots using removable end pieces making it easier to remove the finished parts from the tool.
I first cut the developed shape in a piece of thin card to test the tool. Satisfied that it will work I make a first sample test piece in 0.010โ brass sheet, placing it in position I pull down on the drill press, the piece folds, but tears on one corner, the solution is to pre-bend the sides before using the press tool so that the wings Iโll be soldering donโt catch as it folds. A second sample proves much more satisfactory and forms a very pleasing result. Fast Forward and cut another 9 sample developed pieces and hope they bend up as good as the first one, they do.
The next job is to make another jig to hold the box while the wings are soldered to secure the box shape this is simply a piece of wood with pins to hold the shape as its soldered. I now have to drill all the holes, one for the LEDs and two fastening holes either side. Each box is trimmed and polished before finally fitting each one to the mast. I need to ensure that there is no possibility of short circuit so I made 10 more boxes out of thin paper, which I can glue in position. I will leave them off the mast until final assembly.
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๐ฌ Re: CGInga 1V
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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That's an interesting change of plan, My next project is a similar dilemma as its a hull with a different superstructure with sails and a steam plant
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๐ฌ Re: Rudders
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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This isn't really a build blog its more suited to the forum.
Ask the administrator to move it Its Stephen, he is in the support section
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๐ฌ Re: Running light colors?
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Aft Running Light = ? white
Mast Running Light = ?white
Mast Light = ?white
Masthead Top Light = ?white
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๐ฌ Re: Electrics
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Hi Flaxbybuck, your sort of right however, the travel on sail winch mechanism is the same as the shortest boom, and the attachment points for the two longer booms are located at this same distance from their masts.
Or this is my present thinking it may change when I get the masts finished there's' all the metalwork to be plated yet, then I can try the theory I my end up using some reduction pullies.
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๐ฌ Re: RAIngaIV rear cabin
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Great result, the split cabin isn't an easy option as I also found, but it makes life easier when fully rigged. I note your excellent choice of colour scheme, the same as mine was that a coincidence?
When I started mine18 months ago I had never seen or heard of an Inga IV and other people I spoke to also had not heard of the model and now there are 3
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๐ฌ Re: Window frames
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Beautifully engineered it must have taken a lot of time and patience to make them out of sheet material
can I offer another solution for a future system, use an appropriate channel section and use aluminium solder to join the corners, I was always sceptical about this aluminium solder so tried it out just prove it didn't work but guess what it does work and makes a strong joint and is easy to use - give it a go
That's not to say what you have produced is in any way inferior I think they are great
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๐ฌ Re: Electrics
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง mturpin013 (
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Thanks for all those positive comments it makes writing a blog worthwhile in so much as other members are benefiting and enjoying the blog
Flaxbybuck,
"Now you are using a sail winch I understand you will have sufficient travel to control the main sheet, but how are you achieving a lesser travel distance for the jib sheet ? (You have probably told us, and I have forgotten)"
This will be achieved by changing the attachment points on the booms so they are all equal, or variable as required
Why voltage boosters are needed
The LEDs up each mast (5 in all) are in series therefore the voltage needed is higher the benefit is you need less wires running up the mast (in a brass channel)
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