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| Donation History |
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October 2018: 5 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 9 people |
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I like the 90 degree supports , very versatile, are they commercially available?
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Our thoughts are with you
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I look forward to seeing some jigs and fixtures and of course the finished article
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I really like your approach to the assembly using a jig to ensure squareness and consistency with the bulkheads. its looking good keep it up
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Rear cabin hatches I have decided to make these two roof hatches detachable (not working) purely to ease the painting and rubbing down process. The hatches on the rear cabin are supplied in pieces to be glued together, so to make them detachable I drilled a hole through the base of each and glued an 8BA screw in place, these can then be secured after final painting to the roof. The hatch also has a dummy-hinged lid and small white metal hinges are supplied, however they do need some attention, such as drilling all the holes and trimming the edges. Here we go again, time for a jig! Repartition can be achieved with the simplest of jigs; all I used was coffee stirrers pinned to a block of wood and one as a locking device. The jig was then placed under the milling machine and the first hole centred, drilled and then the next hinge is placed in the jig and drilled and so on, move to the next hole until all holes are drilled. Before fitting the hinges there needs to be a separation line for the lid and hinge plate so a scored line about halfway through the ply. The hinges are fitted with epoxy and brass pins through all the fixing holes. Mid cabin hatch This is a single hatch, again a square of ply is supplied, but this is improved by adding sides, which can locate on runners, again the runners are not supplied. This hatch is also attached with a single screw epoxied into the top and a nut, after final painting. Forward cabin hatch Again, a single hatch and dealt with in the same way as the mid hatch.
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A number of possibilities are available at most model shops try this one, they have perspex, polythene,lexan etc. http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=136_... scroll through the pages
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I assumed you were on holiday Doug, however hope your feeling better because there are questions to be answered and problems to be solved and inspiration to be shared!!!! finish that sausage and get on with it 😁 all the best Michael
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Do you have any details on your printer as the results look very good
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sorry forgot the picture
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Not sure your correct when you say ply doesn't bend in two directions. when building my crash tender the roof panels are a compound curve, I steamed them and let them set in a jig. I agree this will be somewhat more difficult when dealing with a full length skin but with some thought and appropriate jigs and clamps I think it can be done. Ill give it a go on my next build.
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Thanks a that's a great response. and probably says dump it and buy a new one, its for my 5yr old grandson and I saw this on Hobbyking, what do you think for a first beginners set? https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5x-5ch-mini-transmitter-... @ £18.97
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Hi there KIpper, Its not always about the cost its rather about the challenge for me. I often do things that could very easily be done by purchasing the item, but for me model making is about setting a goal to be achieved - not for everyone I agree.
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Is there a reason for not using a full length skin? using a card template to ensure correct size then a one piece skin is surely quicker and smoother end product.
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A long shot, is it possible to convert a Mcgregor transmitter and receiver from 35meg (aircraft only) to a suitable surface model frequency eg 27Mhz band, the 459Mhz band and the 2.4Ghz band. If it is any instruction available?
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Very nice work, good to see some real engineering
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Martin, what's the significance of 666 posts? PS. I'm glad I don't use your health centre sounds as if they behind the times, are you sure your well?
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Thanks Peter I'll have a look at them
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The white metal fittings supplied with the kit are somewhat lacking in detail and some are overweight to say the least. I decided to produce some life rings to my specification I had tried to find suitable replacements on the web without success. So how to produce the ring part. I first tried with plywood but the finish achievable was not acceptable (can be seen in the pictures) so I then decided to use Bamboo (Ikea phone stand) for those who have followed from the start the same material as the grating on the foam tanks. First I cut some rough circles out of 10mm bamboo sheet and drilled a 10mm hole so it can be mounted on a 10mm screw mandrel. This allows the piece to machined on one side and then reversed and machined on the other side. The tool I used was ground with a 22 mm radius to produce the shape on one side of the ring and then when reversed and machined again the tool actually “parts off” the ring on the inner diameter leaving the ring free on the now remaining peg, the finish on the bamboo was good enough without any further sanding. The next step was to put a slot in the OD at 90degree intervals to hold the “rope” in position while the rope is bound in four places. The easiest way was to make a jig to hold the ring and to keep the rope in place while it’s glued into ring, it can then be removed and bound in four places each turn being super glued to keep it in place. Next job is to give a coat of sanding sealer that stiffens the rope and seals the wood. The rings are theoretically held to the cabin roof with clamp type brackets so again to ensure consistency I machined a piece with a suitable profile. I then cut radial slices to create individual brackets. The rings will actually be fastened to the cabin roof with 2 x 8BA bolts this is to enable them to be removed for painting of both the ring and the roof. At a later painting stage, I will be giving them two coats of grey primer and three coats of white, then hand painting the rope loops with red paint. The finished rings are much lighter and hopefully look more realistic.
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Anybody any advice about sound generators I have seen then ranging from £21 - @ https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/specialised-items/soun... to £62 - @ http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/5_91/pr... Im wanting it the Fire Crash Tender any thoughts would be welcome
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What green square?👍
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Slightly more comfortable - The bending is done simply by soaking in hot water for 10 - 15 mins and then forming around a suitable paint tin/circular object and left a couple of days to dry. The skins must be absolutely dry before fitting as further drying out when glued to the bulkheads will twist the whole hull.
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Thanks for that Les, keep the blog coming. Is the hull to be wood or metal?
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Les, this is a very interesting build I look forward to seeing its progress, what's your trade background if you don't mind me asking?
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Boat lifting eyes As has been said by others the boat lifting eyes are a small detail but an important one, somehow when detailing gets in your head its difficult not to seek it out. Anyway, there are six eyes three on each side, which I presume, are for lifting the boat out of the water, unfortunately there isn’t any detail on size so it’s down to “builders eye”. I made the six in a batch, that’s to say I first made six identical pieces 10.5mm x 20.5mm x 2mm thick and drilled the hole in each then the six pieces fastened together with an M4 screw and then machined together to ensure uniformity and ease of production. I then skimmed them to final size 10 x 20 followed by milling the concave and convex radii on the top. I intend to sink the eye into the deck and secure using a brass pin sideways into the gunwhale stringers and epoxied into position. To ease fitting I made a small jig, which will allow a 2mm slot to be cut in the exact position on the deck along with a drilled hole at 90 degrees. Two small grub screws fasten the jig to the gunwale stringers while the slot and holes are machined. After all the slots had been prepared I then made all the foot rails that run along the edge of the deck from bow to stern, the first set I used the obeche supplied in the kit, however as they are in a place that could get knocked I decided to rework then in walnut. Finally I pre drilled all the foot rails ready for temporary pinning. Having all the components ready it is time to assemble with epoxy resin, using sparingly and making sure not to get any on the visible part of the brass lifting eyes and using pins to hold in position while curing. PS sorry about some of the picture quality but I didn't check them until after assembly
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PS I think you may want to consider Brushless motor if you want reasonable speed. although an 850 -900 size motor may do the job.
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I am also building this boat but haven't finalised the power plant yet. However have a look at Robbobs build blog on this site for some inspiration. https://model-boats.com/builds/view/23951
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Novagsi0 what a great harbour and the traction engine proves your engineering ability. However one question, where do you 48 hours in a day mine only have 24!!!
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Sorry can't help on that but where did you get such a wonderful hull it looks like a part finished kit.
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I tried it and it worked for me, could be your security settings on your computer.
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Well done Ed, it really does look fabulous and as the others, I look forward to the maiden voyage.
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