This is a simple construction from ply which when the angle has been measured and the height/front face calculated is easy to cut and assemble.
I used a solid brass joint which is the same size as the flexible joint that will eventually be used to enable the motor to be suspended in the correct position whilst measurements were taken. These dimensions were transferred to the front face so the rest of the frame could be made to support the front face. Once the joints have set I made the cut out to match where the motor wires exit from the floor. Still with the brass joint in place I marked out the 3 securing bolts these were spotted through to the floor. These marks enable the holes to be drilled (hardened using wood hardener) and then tapped M4, now the studs can be screwed into the floor ready for the final mounting of the motor.

As with the side skins the first job is to make sure the formers are “in line” as before from one to another and on to the next doesn’t make the skin look as if it shows an undesirable bump in the profile. The bottom skins need to be fitted to the keel profile first so some minor trimming to accommodate the prop shaft curve. The bottom skin also needs some steaming to fit the curve just before the balsa block, this curve is at the discretion of the builder so a gentle filing against a pre-made template to ensure both sides are the same.
The sheet is then applied to the base and clamped in position, this allows the steaming to be done and to pencil around to show the excess that can be removed before gluing and the outline for the former lines can be marked to enable some pilot holes to be drilled
I then use the same location method as I did on the side skins using 3mm dowels to make alignment much easier and less trimming after the glue has set. The curve at the bow is rather difficult to hold whist gluing as pins into balsa don’t hold very firmly so I used a build-up of clamps just to apply enough pressure to maintain the curve whilst the glue sets as well as a few brass pins.
Left overnight to set I can now use the plane to lightly trim back to the side skins

Hey Rob, you've really got the "styrene bug" I'm not sure if its as bad as the "corona bug" but be careful to stay in your bubble.
Joking apart another triumph, I'll have to have a go.

I forgot to publish this operation at the correct build point so here it is slightly behind. The angle of the prop shaft is taken from the drawing so it can be transferred to the brass shaft whilst in situ; the hole created by the build leaves a square hole large enough to allow some vertical and lateral movement so I can now position the shaft with the aid of the angle gauge along the centre line and set using epoxy. The underwater part of the prop has a supporting ply quadrant which will be epoxied at the same time, I use some light wedges to position the shaft and hold it whilst the epoxy sets.

Well thanks to Rob for confirming that the Hobbyking 90amp ESC was faulty, Rob offered to substitute my ESC in his boat and he has confirmed that it is faulty, so I'll continue the battle with Hobbyking for a replacement. (sale of goods and all that).
I'm very dissapointed with HK dealing with this and will be hesitant about using them in future unless absolutely necessary🤔 sometimes they are the only suppliers at a reasonable price.

Yet again great detailing, hard to tell it from the real thing.

Nice work Rob, Nav lights are great.

Rob I tried to delete this pic but it won't disappear. its gone from the edit page but still appears in published area.

Fitting the skins is always an exciting part of the build for me as it starts to make the project start to look like a boat. the first job is to make sure the former's are “in line” by this I mean that the transition from one to another and on to the next doesn’t make the skin look as if you left something behind it and shows an undesirable bump in the profile. This is done with a piece of scrap flat wood with some say 120 grit abrasive glued flat to it, gently draw the block over the profile to remove any high spots, I sometimes mark the edges with a marker pen to show where the high spots are and in theory when a light rub remove or touches all areas you can assume the profile is ready for the skin.
Skins are provided well over size and also will benefit from a little heat treatment on the bow. I like to trim as close as possible before gluing so a minimum of planning and sanding is required after. I first lay the skin over the frame and then and clamp along the length, then at the bow I applied some heat along with a light spray of water which quickly turns to steam but allows the ply to become pliable this is then bent around the bow and clamped, I now leave this overnight to dry and cool, which will hopefully retain the bend.
I then drill 2 x 3mm holes on the bow into the pre-prepared reference blocks to take a 3mm bamboo dowel; I then do the same at the stern. This is followed by scribing around the skin with a pencil to indicate the excess and also mark the position of the formers so holes can be drilled for pins to be driven into the formers exactly in the middle I then remove the clamps and dowels and remove the excess ply close to the pencil marks, and then drill some 0.4mm holes in the former positions for later pinning. Next I prepare some epoxy, the frame is then “glued up” ready for the application of the skin. Using the dowels the bow is located first, closely followed by the stern dowel; this locates the skin exactly ready for all the clamps to be applied, I then work along the marked positions of the formers and use some 0.5mm brass pins to ensure contact along the length of the formers, a final check that all the skin is in contact with the frame this is left to cure overnight.
The other side is next but first some trimming at the bow is required so it doesn’t catch on the previously applied skin. I followed the same process on the second skin
The final operation on the side skins is to remove the excess ply, I prefer to use a jack plane for this job, which may sound OTT but I find its size an assistance in gauging the angle of the plane against the skins to get it level with the deck and the bottom chine, it’s also so easy to keep razor sharp and is easily adjustable to take minute cuts when required. It’s now ready for the bottom skins to be applied.

Hi Rob that's a very generous offer which I would like to take up and it will definitely confirm whats at fault, because at the moment it could be the card or the ESC. I will post them tomorrow along with return postage/packaging.
maybe we can talk by phone when you have had a chance to come to some conclusion.
Many thanks

PS JB Ive been moving the stick in every direction imaginable but only get a momentary blip
Michael

JB,Rob, I have used the program card, I bought it at the same time as I didn't want to be bothered with the Beep,Beep scenario. So I have tried all possible options on the card with no result, and the transmitter is the a Flysky FX-i6x 10ch so sticks type. Unfortunately I don't have any other boats that I could substitute the ESC to test it, I did check out the other 90A ESC in Hong Kong but as you it doesn't specify if its suitable for NiMh batteries.
However I haven't finished with Hobbyking yet.

Hi Rob, not sure if a sock will help but a pair may be useful.
However the 90 amp ECS maybe worth a look if I can confirm it works for NiMh, Ill try a live chat and thanks for the heads up

I did as suggested and contacted Hobbyking asking that under the circumstances (EG stupid me assuming that all hobbyking components are top quality) obviously not.
So the response was :-
Hi Michael. We have received the letter in regard to the boat ESC. One year warranty on such products from date of purchase. We would advise checking and testing products prior to long term projects. Regards Ian, Hobbyking warranty team.

Not the reply I wanted, but I have replied - watch this space.

screen shot tickets available

https://www.blackpoolmodelshow.co.uk/event/blackpool-model-show-2019/

🔗

I've seen a post on our club site to say Blackpool is cancelled, but they still appear to be selling tickets so beware.

A very realistic looking model, you would have difficulty in telling it from the real thing

That's a fine looking boat, well made.

Excellent work Rob I don't think the extra weight will be an issue when you consider all the stuff I piled on my crash tender and it still floats (albeit only forwards)
I think I might have a look at the VeeCad,
Does it accept voice commands like -
"build me an all singing and dancing illumination system for my boat" 😁

The bottom skin I think will need some additional support around the gaps between each of the lower formers so that the lower skin doesn’t sag between formers and is supported whist the adhesive is setting. I used some scrap pieces of balsa to fit the gaps making sure they were 1.5mm below the keel support.
The other preparatory thing I added was an additional block at the bow either side to use as reference points, the stern has two 12mm blocks which will also serve as reference point these will be used to position the skins when gluing.

Hi Nerys, as far as I know its on, check out the web site, but don't be put off by the 2019 at the end of the link it takes you to 2020 show page.

https://www.blackpoolmodelshow.co.uk/event/blackpool-model-s...

https://www.blackpoolmodelshow.co.uk/event/blackpool-model-show-2019/

🔗

Thanks JB, I continue to be educated😁

As soon as I get the reverse sorted out there will plenty of pics and videos

Thanks all, for your suggestion. My charger has the option to discharge/charge should I try this?

Just a point when I start everything up the "watt" meter reads 21.6v does this say anything about its state of charge?

Now to the down side of the first voyage, first of all the battery life was not as long as expected – 10 mins
I did make sure the batteries were fully charged this was done with batteries in situ and in series I set the charger at 5.0 A charge rate and it only took five minuets or so to top up as I have been charging them every 2 months. They are 2X 9.6V 50000 mah giving a voltage of 19.2V the charger appeared to function correctly and is rated to charge this size of battery. Based on the first trials mostly being run at zero to full power runs and a little pottering around in between, are there any answer's to :-
Question 1– is this what is expected? If so would LiPo be an alternative

Question 2 No reverse – I am using the
"HobbyKing 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC" water cooled

The motor is a brushless again Turnigy
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5045-660KV Brushless Out-runner Motor.

I have programmed the ESC with the Hobby King Program Card to what I thought to be the correct settings with some alterations to the recommended as suggested by other users, however this still eludes reverse, the settings I have used are as follows :- "xxx" items are my settings

Programming Functions:
Running Mode: Forward with brake / "Forward and reverse with brake" / "Forward and reverse" (tried both these)
Acceleration: 6% / "9%" / 12% (not sure what this does?)
Low Voltage Protection: "None" / 2.6 V / 2.8 V / 3.0 V / 3.2 V / 3.4 V (suggested setting as using NiMH batteries)
Start Mode (Punch): Level 1 / Level 2 / Level 3 / "Level 4" / Level 5 / Level 6 / Level 7 / Level 8 / Level 9
Reverse Force: "25%" / "50%" / 75% / 100% (tried both these)
Timing: 0° / 5° / 10° / 15° / "20°" / 25° / 30° / "Automatic" (tried both these)

None of the combinations seemed to make any difference, So my any suggestions as what I try next would be greatly received.

Well eventually the day came when the conditions allowed the maiden voyage, so all systems checked and a dry run at home before we set off for the 1hr 30mins round trip to my clubs lake. I only joined this club in January after visiting a few in my area (50 mile Radius)and finally having talked to these clubs at boat shows and assessing the “warmth”of the welcome I decide to join The York Model Boat Club. They sail at Lathem on a lake owned by a nearby caravan site and the site is really nice with a club house and toilet facilities, landing stage,two rescue rowing boats in fact all that you could wish for. There seems to be an even split between power and sail and the lake is big enough to allow both to sail at either ends of the lake.
This is the first opportunity to sail with the virus issues. We arrived at the lake and the first job was to get my grandsons Freeman 22 on the water to keep him occupied whilst my son and myself prepare the Crash Tender. Again a final check of all systems however we noticed that there wasn’t any reverse, OH NO! we set about checking the ESC settings but with no change (more on this in the forum later).We decided having driven all this way to at least put it in the water and “Go Forward” as it were. The club has a launching cradle which allows the older generation to put the boat in the water with a minimum of effort, place said boat in the cradle and lower it via the rope until it floats, and float it did, so that’s a plus.
The smoke generator worked well to simulate engine starting (but we failed to capture this effect on film) sorry. We sailed the boat around the lake at various speeds and turning both to Port and Starboard and I’m pleased to say it seemed to perform as expected. So in general I’m pleased with the performance. I am going to post in the forum about the issues with reverse and battery life, I'm sure that something simple is wrong as Robbob has exactly the same set-up in his Crash Tender and his seems to work well so I’m hoping for some help and a solution.

Are you seriously saying you want a miniature Chris Craft B - four-cylinder petrol engine.😝
I know there are a few very cleaver engineers out there but I don't think they do these as a business, but more a hobby.
But good look with that 😁

Whilst the construction is still in skeleton form I thought it better to put in the holes for the rudder and the water pick-ups in because at this stage it’s easier to hold the frame in a vice on my drilling machine. The holes are marked out and then the top K6/6a are held in a toolmakers clamp which is subsequently held in the vice so the holes can be drilled centrally and square with K7, both holes are drilled one 6mm (water scoop) & 8mm (rudder housing).
The rudder is a commercial item, loosely described as a “Large Rudder” which requires a small modification of turning the blade through 90 degrees and re drilling and riveting and then soft soldered just to make sure of a secure joint. The blade is then shortened by about 10mm on the trailing end and 5mm on the leading end, then a final polish and it’s ready for installation at a later stage.
The water scoop is a different issue, it’s one of those items that can be purchased for a few pounds but what’s the fun in that. I would much rather take the long route and make my own. I’ve documented this process before but here we go again. Using a piece of 0.250” brass tubing at 3” long the first job is to fill it with soft solder, tinman’s solder is best as it’s not as expensive as the cored solder, so resting one end on a piece of wood the tube is fluxed and then heated externally and the solder fed in from the top until its full to the top, its then left to cool. Holding the tube in the machine vice with a 50mm round bar in the jaw the tube can be easily drawn around the 50mm bar to the desired degree (about 35 degrees in this case). The tube is then held in the machine vice and trimmed to the appropriate shape on the inlet end. I then made a collar to be soldered on the tube in the appropriate place giving a position in line with the top of the propeller this will be epoxied in place at a later stage.

Hi Tilly, there is limited information on these boats and each builder makes there own interpretation, what ever that may be so its a case of do your own thing I'm afraid

Type "Crash Tender " into build blogs and you will find plenty of information.

Its always a surprise when you jump on the scales and usually things are heavier than you think, I found exactly that when I weighed my Crash Tender.
Anyway what a superb model a credit to you and the layout is perfect.- BRILLIANT!