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I also remember this when we holidayed in Scarborough again some 50 years ago, Peasholm Park was in the North bay (posh part) which is quite a way around Marine Drive. I still holiday there in my touring caravan we stay at the a site just above North Bay.
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Colin sorry for the late reply I got the card from a shop called Hobby Craft in Leeds West Yorks Have a look at this chart for paper thickness comparisons. http://www.zxprinter.com/support/paper-thickness.html
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I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a mahogany boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the mahogany boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side. Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner. Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. If there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly
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I'm not sure either of these would solve the leak! Wrong tread ?
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I'm glad your enjoying the build and how strange, I also had a 36" model crash tender in the early sixties with a marine ED Racer we used to sail on Roundhay Park lake in Leeds but regrettably we sold it, needed the money for other things back then.
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Hi Rob, thank goodness these changes/modifications have come before I get to that stage so I can incorporate them in mine. The boat looks really good on the water, and if ever I get to your neck of the woods I'd really like to see it close up as it's certainly an inspiring build. My build is coming on OK but the detailing takes such a long time to get it to the right standard, but this is the enjoyable part of modelling for me. The other thing that's slowing things down is my 5 year old grandson who wants a boat as well so I'm building a Freeman 22 alongside my crash tender. PS keep us informed of any other updates Michael
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I used to scratch build aircraft 50 years ago and thought a kit might just ease me back to modeling (sorry Martin) however I'm doing a scratch build along side my crash tender, its actually a kit but needs a lot of mods as the plans are not as good as they should be so is near enough scratch. Can anybody tell me the difference between scratch and kit building? I think that a lot of scratch builds and kit builds may not be built to a "production standard" however they are built to the best of the builders ability, conversely there are boats (both kit & scratch) on this website that are built to exceptional standards with kits being modified from plan, I've never seen two "same models" that are the same. Each to their own. Any chance you could share your woody plans Martin?
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I was just looking at how you had transferred the plans to your wood, I have just done this with a small cabin cruiser but found that photocopying the plan and then pasting them to the wood caused some stretching of the paper and subsequently the dimensions of the bulkheads. So I tried another method which was photocopying onto A4 sticky labels and then its just peel and stick. As a returner to modeling after 50 years this is the first time I have encountered this (I used to cut the plans up for aeroplanes as a teenager!), has anybody got any better ideas?
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I think I have one of these in the basement somewhere, Ill try and did it out - (I wish)
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I propose to make the rear deck and the deck which carries the tow hook all as a complete piece that lifts out in one. Although its going to be in one piece the full assembly still has to be made as separate components so first job is to cut the individual panels again using the card inserts to make sure the end assembly has clearance. The tow hook deck is the first piece to be dealt with and epoxied as a sub assembly. Having completed the wooden frame I then took a break and did some more planking, first a mahogany boarder and then glue a black card calk around its inside edge, next cut and sand each plank to fit in the space left, these could then be glued in place with a black card calk between each plank. After a period of drying I sanded the whole surface level. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. When the rest of the subassemblies are complete they will all be lacquered together before final assembly.
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Thanks for Doug -I think! I've read it twice and things are becoming clearer, a third and forth time may bring crystal clarity I hope. All in all a very cleaver solution to a problem that I think many others would benefit from, well done Doug and thanks for the interpretation.
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What an interesting post, if only I understood the detail, I grasped the overall concept but the oscilloscope bit lost me (I'm a toolmaker by trade) so I understand the "suspended 'false floor" bit which is an interesting concept. some detail pics please.
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That's going to keep you busy for a while, however a most enjoyable project, I look forward to seeing its progress.
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Hi there Colin I used 0.3 mm black card just cut in to strips using a rule and Stanley knife then using aliphatic glue, gluing each piece in followed by a plank and working across the piece, then removing the excess card with a blade followed by sanding with dry sandpaper, if there is any staining of the planks this is easily removed with a pencil rubber.
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Theoretically this should be a very straight forward process and a change from rubbing down the hull so let’s look at the instructions – what instructions! First of all fit some thin card to the sides of the cabin walls to allow for a clearance fit (cornflakes packet) then some minor trimming of the spars to give an exact ,(not tight) fit across the side supports, I decided to pin each of the parts together as well as epoxy in the joints. I always find the best approach is to use a jig to drill pilot holes for the pins ensuring that the pins do not split the wood and the construction is accurate. The frame is then glued up and placed back in the boat and left to dry next job is to fit the corner strengthening pieces, the easiest way I found was to put a card support for the corners to rest on whilst they set still in the cabin structure. Looking forward I had decided to retain the cabin lids with Neodymium magnets so I machined a slot in the corner pieces underside to house the magnets, to be fitted at a later date. Next job is to fit the roof skins which again will be pinned using the 0.7mm brass pins. The roof skins are now epoxied in place so I need to mark out the position of the secondary panels. Looking at the pieces and the instructions the spacer frames seem to be the same size but I was sure I’d read somewhere that these overhung by 2-3mm, reading Robs blog conformed this to be the case. So some trimming required before fitting and marking out the appropriate position then being glued into position. The mid cabin was assembled in exactly the same way
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No hassle Martin it takes less than 2 mins to do, and the discs are really useful for other cutting jobs, I use them instead of a hacksaw for cutting thin mild & stainless steel sheet.
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Doug Dremel do cut off wheels which will cut through a die, it may take a couple of discs. However if you have a 4" angle grinder you can also get cut off discs at 0.8mm thick which would do the job. Dremel - http://www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/Cutting.html Angle grinder - https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/?LANGUAGE=EN&CTYPE=0&MWSTFREE...
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Martin is there any reason you went for a fine series M3 X 0.6 pitch rather than standard 0.5 pitch?
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I just had an addendum to the last post - "Hi Michael, I forgot to add that when they were new their cabin sides were varnished and it was later that it was changed to light grey." Regards Donald
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Doug I didn't realise you had a lathe so chamfer is easy but your suggestion of holding the die in a chuck on the table and the shaft in the machine chuck should work also the solid die you have is known as a die nuts or gun nose die and are usually used to clean up existing threads and not for cutting new threads as you have found out since you can't expand the die for the first cut. However I hope it works out well. I would for future treading exercises think about making or purchasing a machine die holder have a look at this site you should be able make your own. http://www.neilsniche.com/lathe-tailstock-tap-die-holder.htm... https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/Die_Stocks.html
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Hi Doug , about your problem with the thread. First of all have you put a 45 degree chamfer on the shaft which must be concentric, secondly have you got the die in the correct way round, its has a "lead in" n one side and the other side is for going close to a shoulder. Having put the die in the stock which should have 3 screws, tighten the centre screw to open the die slightly this should allow it to start easily, cut the thread to the required length using a good cutting fluid and one turn forward then reverse to break the chip. I usually do all my threads in the lathe using a tailstock mounted die holder, however you mention a milling machine, if you can mount the shaft vertically in a vice you can place the die under the flat face of the spindle (centred) and use this to pressure down as you twist the die stock onto the shaft. Apologies if you've done all this, because if you have its your die thats goosed!
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I have done some more digging and I hope this confirms the colour scheme for the boat. please see the reply I received from:- Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN Hello, Colour scheme for the above boat is as follows. Black topsides, red oxide anti-fouled bottom separated by a 2in white waterline. All decks dark grey anti-slip deck paint, cabin sides light grey, cabin roofs white anti-slip deck paint. Mast-white, monitors red, crash ladder and davit silver/aluminium. An RAF roundel is centred 5ft 4in back from stem and 2ft 1.5in above mean waterline. The centre red disc 4in Dia., middle white circle 8in Dia., and the outer blue circle 12in Dia. The bottom of the white bow numbers should be 2ft 7in above mean waterline. They are 9in high by 6in wide with a 1.5in stroke width and a 2in separation between each number. The forward end of numbers 3 or 4 on the starboard side is 12in back from the outside of the roundel (Port side similar). The main FIRE letters are 2ft 6in high by 2ft wide with a stroke width of 6in and a separation of 6in between letters. The base of the letters is 7.5in above mean waterline. Transom numbers are 10in high by 8in wide and a stroke width of 1.5in and a separation on 2in. Base of numbers to be 1ft 5in above mean waterline. Draft marks are 3in high with a 0.5in stroke. I hope this meets with your requirements. Yours faithfully Donald Smith RAF MARINE CRAFT HISTORIAN.
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I have a similar problem with my 46" 1/12th model, I found some Star Trek figures at just 6" with movable limbs so I reckon with some creative cloths and a face lift I can make them into true RAF crew members. they were about £5 each.
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Has any body ask these questions of the people mention on that web site EG "Donald Smith (Marine Craft Historian) and Terry Holtham (Military Small Craft Historian) and Budge Bergin (Wireless Operator on the boats for 8½ years at various Marine Craft Units, including Mount B" I'm not sure if they are still with us but its worth a try if they are . I,m willing to try providing nobody has already tried to contact them Please let me know
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See below reply from an ex RAF man The overseas colours are interesting and the link toRAF boats is really good "Hi Michael. when i joined the RAF in 1956 the boats that were specifically for the sunderland flying boats that were being decommissioned and I only saw one fire tender and the colour of the hull was black the main deck was I think bare wood with the well decks and superstructure painted grey with and the top painted white except when overseas the hull of all raf boats were white. Have a look at www.rafboats.co.uk and and you may find one on there. Regards Trev Secretary york model boat club"
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Martin thats a monumental completion job you've got there I look forward to seeing the progress. Michael
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File downloads OK for me
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Thanks for the reminder Iv'e just reserved a tin of textured paint from Halfords and Ref the colour scheme, I am thinking of joining the York model boat club and at an open day a few weeks ago I was talking to a club rep who actually served on the two RAF boats I will try and contact him and ask the question
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Now the Chine rubbing strakes are fitted, dry and filled and I have attended to the minor lumps and bumps the next job is to give another coat of resin, taking the issues of the first application into account I intend to apply a thin coat, this has the effect of filling in the pattern of the glass cloth. Another two days have passed and it’s time to do some rubbing down. I have found that the surface is very hard, more so than I recall some of the other fibre glass projects I have done but these have been using Polyester resin. It’s a first for epoxy, so is epoxy a better choice than Polyester? According to my mini research – Epoxy is more versatile Epoxy has fewer fumes Epoxy is stronger Epoxy shrinks less Conclusion Epoxy is the better choice for repairing/covering either wooden hulls or repairing fiberglass boats. It has excellent adhesive qualities, wets out fiberglass fabrics and it is tough. It has great thin film cure characteristics, cures in cool temperatures. After the first coat I wasn’t 100 % happy with the finish but I just thought that some dust had landed on the surface before the resin had dried, (this was proved not to be dust but because of the matting pattern still been visible it disguised the real problem) however this was easily sanded out with wet & dry. Now the hull and deck were looking really smooth with very little sign of the matting pattern it was time to give a final coat. I had decided to coat both the deck and the hull in one go so I mixed enough resin to do the lot. Starting with the deck I started to apply the resin but to may horror it started to pin prick all over the deck surface, panic, panic what was causing this? So was it the brush which I had previously washed out with cellulose thinners after applying the last batch of resin. I decided to remove the resin and use a new brush (I had 90 mins cure time to do this) so cleaning of with paper towel and finally with a wipe with thinners I started to apply resin again – but it happened again as I sat in despair I looked into the pot of resin wondering where to go next when I saw a film on the top of the remaining resin It was then I noticed a ridge in the cups side. It was the wax coating that had melted into the resin and subsequently appeared as pin pricks in the newly applied surface. At this realisation I removed all the resin again and took a breather hoping I had found the problem. Another day and a light rub down of the deck to make sure the surface is ready to receive its final coat. Resin weighed (in a glass container this time) and well mixed I started to apply again and fortunately it was OK and all surfaces were coated.
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As the hull glass matting is really dry and has had some minor filling done it’s time to fit the chine rubbing strakes. which have been in the jig now for some days and consisted of a two dimensional curvature jig. In order to make sure the strakes were equally balanced on each side I made a cardboard template that followed the Chine stringers line and rested on the Gunwhale rubbing strakes, having drawn a line on the port side I flipped the template over and drew a line on the starboard side giving a perfectly equal curve on each side So now to prepare them for fitting. The jig had made a curve that was a really good fit without much spring. I decided to use some very small brass pins (0.5dia x 10mm long) to hold them whilst the epoxy sets. I pre drilled the whole length of the strake and lightly inserted pins along its length, then applied the epoxy and started to fix from the bow and followed the pencil line back to the stern. This was repeated on the other side, when set there was some minor filling to be done/filling pin holes.
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