Hi Cash the pump is the exact one I have just had problems with. Mine kept going dead I dismantled it on two occasions but nothing to be seen. I opted to buy another make, A Graupner Water Pump 6V which is much better engineered.

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=pumps+&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21

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Really nicely finished model

Nicely done Cash, look forward to the maiden voyage

Hi there Ed I'm sorry I can't tell you, I just copied what others had done with my own interpretation.

Rob the filaments are from a solar garden light from B&Q remove the end cap as if you were switching it on and unscrew the end and cut the wires. If you then heat the plastic neck with a heat gun then "twist" the end comes off. Be careful not to knock the filaments as you withdraw them. before you cut them free note + & - the positive is the end with a tiny hole in the flat metal end.
A point to mention when soldering new wires on is to use a pair of small pliers and cutters to remove excess wires, then a pair of normally sprung closed tweezers to act as a heat sink whilst soldering the joint and generally be very very careful handling them as the can't be bent at all.
I did find some on ebay but they were only 25mm long, however make sure you get the 3 volt ones and not the more generally available 70 volt ones used in domestic light bulbs

https://www.diy.com/departments/clear-bulb-solar-powered-led-external-hanging-light/3663602430971_BQ.prd

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Following Robs great design I made a start on my own version of a circuit board for my lighting requirements, I have the following lighting requirements:-
1. Spot light
2. Blue light
3. Mast light
4. Port/starboard lights
5. Instrument lights
6. Front cabin lights
7. Sick bay lights
8. Engine bay lights
9. Towing light

I wanted to keep everything neat and tidy so I had a plastic project box doing nothing which was just the right size. I have 1 dedicated spot light Molex connector with a large current limiting resistor and then one specifically for the blue cabin forward light and finally there are 5 connectors that are for smaller LEDs. I have 2 Turnigy switches, one is for the spot light and the other switches all the other lights. I like the circuit board Rob designed because it I like the idea of being able to take out each individual lighting circuit should it be required. The only lighting I haven’t previously covered are the cabin lights, I thought that something imitating a tubular light might look nice, so using the LED filaments from garden lights I designed a fitting for all the cabins, taking a length of square plastic tube I made a small jig that would allow me to file a recess in the tube to allow the LED to be visible, each of the LEDs had wires attached and then the whole assembly was fed into the tube. When in position I secured them using canopy glue squirted down the ends. The fittings will be glued in position at a later stage.

I be going on the 18th Feb but I met this chap last year and had a conversation at an open day. I hope I can remember him and indeed if he is there I will make some enquirers

Really interesting Doug, good find

Hi Doug I didn't realise this was such a contentious subject, I am about to join the York model boat club soon where I have visited a few times. During my visits last year I was told that one of the members actually worked on No 93, so I am going to find this person and ask the question. I will let you know

To get the silicon tube through, tie very tightly a piece of strong cotton thread around the end of the silicon tube, then thread the cotton through the brass tube, pull on the tread at the same time holding the other end which will stretch the silicon tube reducing its diameter, then keeping stretched feed through the brass tube😜
PS can we see the pump please and its spec.

Hi Doug, well spotted I have tried all sorts to get the order correct but it always beats me. Ill try harder next time🤔

Just had a look at Victory Industries example and the deck is clearly cambered.

Doug I'm hoping for a maiden voyage this summer, I'm busy with the electrics at the moment, then its a case of putting all the finished parts together (a bit like a kit of parts) as I've made everything and painted all the parts.
Back to the deck - the run off holes, surly these would be required whether the deck was curved or flat since the port and starboard sides are enclosed by the cabin sides?
Rob, how did you decide on your build?

It would be nice to see a demo/video of your description of the monitors workings.
What pump do you use?

Doug, when I did mine I just assumed it was curved because both roofs either side were and it seemed sensible that the bit in-between would be curved as well. Plus the deck at the rear is also curved and that one is in the instructions.

Great video Rob, I wish I could have come but its a fare hike from Leeds so I'll be attending more local events

sorry for the late reply but yes the deck is curved and follows the roof line

Hi Colin hope your on the mend, I spent some time with wrist braces some years ago but fortunately my arthritis is under control now, but it does stop you doing anything.

It’s time to finish some part completed jobs so having put an intake in the forward bulk head area I have now found that the pump (a 6v Graupner look alike apparently) was not as reliable as it is supposed to be despite being expensive, it didn’t start up every time. After taking the motor housing apart, there didn’t appear to be anything wrong with its internals, other than being a mass produced brushed motor made to not too exacting tolerances. So I decided to by a “real” Graupner 6V pump which seemed to be a better manufactured pump. The only issue I had with it was in the description it says it must have the inlet below the water line but looking at the configuration/design of the pump the inlet and outlet are on the top of the pump!
So a little re-engineering required, I made an alternative bracket which puts the inlet and outlet at the bottom making it easier to place the inlet below the waterline. Next a platform for mounting the new pump which needed to be epoxied into the hull, this was simply fabricated from some scrap plywood and epoxied into the hull. The base of the new bracket was lined with a 1.5 mm layer of vibration absorbing material. The bracket is held down with two bolts, via a treaded 2ba brass stud epoxied into the keel. The tubing can now be routed around the hull to a secure jointing position 1 in the forward sick bay and the other in the engine room.

That's a really interesting tutorial

Stephen thanks for taking action on the inappropriate ads (although not all people saw the one I saw and sent you) as other have said hopefully it will encourage other to contribute to the costs and for the others better viewing

We are getting ready for the maiden voyage in summer so need to look at lubricating the prop shaft (4mm shaft). It has a sealed ball race at the motor end and phosphor bronze or maybe only brass at the other end so whats the recommendation, oil or grease?

I like a jig makes life so much easier

Steve has been sent the advert, and has now altered the settings to stop it

for your wider calking you can use black plasticard it comes in various thicknesses

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222296445697

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they keep changing ! its still inappropriate, I have a 6 Year old grandson who looks at this site

has any body else seen the ad further down this thread it shows female sexual appliances (at about 3 year point)
If you are offended by this as I am please contact Steve and ask him to investigate it

I used lime wood and black card for all my deck detail

49s are now on the bow
Thanks Rob😊

Old household equipment is a good supply of free motors, anything that moves and has been discarded for some reason is always dismantled for bits.