looking forward to the electrics

interesting😊

Sorry for late reply, I would definitely leave it as supplied, its already tougher than stainless and any heat treatment will almost certainly cause some bending in a piece as long as a prop shaft. So I just tread it, again very carefully using the screws on the die stock to open the die fully on the first cut, making sure you use a good quality cutting oil.

JB, any detail on the sound units I haven't seen this type before - provider, cost, etc

Just getting back to my 46" crash tender after a long holiday.
Looking at the various plans and pictures could the offset be because of the rather large Stern Post which is probably about 6" square in the centre of the real boats stern.
So retro fitting the light would be easier to fit off centre in the planked area. Just a thought

That looks like a complicated set up. I'm just about to start making a simple boiler to power a small twin V, so sorry I can't help with any identification. but its an interesting project.

some of the irregularities in the finished section will come from the differences in the structure of the the balsa with the grain being harder in places as you progress along the piece of wood, so this has to be be expected, and sanded where necessary to achieve final profile.
As I said a good tip
MT

Will be doing the same for the boys boat when were back from holiday, Ill post some pics of boat and stand ASAP. Nice easy design and looks the part.

Good quality Silver steel is the way to go, emphasis on "Good Quality" steer clear of Chinese

good tip jb it also works on much larger cross sections making it easier to get a uniform section throughout the length of the item.

Looks a great project Chris, look forward to seeing the build

Just picked up on this blog, somehow missed it but very interesting

Keep taking the tablets Martin,or second thoughts maybe up the dose!😀

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Rob I think the move will take some time as the room is a partly below ground room. Though the room has been used for storage its not really suitable as a hobby room so the room has to be tanked to make sure that no damp occurs, I also intend putting a narrow window in to give some natural light, so all in all quite a big job.

Can any body help with a circuit that indicates by an LED that the motor is running,
The boat has 7.2 NimH batteries driving a brushed motor (4.5V - 12v) through a 15 amp viper ECS and the radio is a Hobby King 5 channel Turnigy 5X 5Ch Mini Transmitter and Receiver (Mode 2)

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Rob your pain was felt as I did this job, I remember thinking of you when setting this up and to be honest I'm not sure I would have done it without some sort of mechanical advantage, but, as you say you got a good finished product, I just did it faster without the pain.👍

On another note I have finished the Freeman 22 Cabin Cruiser for my Grandson and its waiting for it maiden voyage, I will post some pics when it occurs and add it to my finished boat harbour.
Also I'm moving workshop from the 4th floor to the basement, however the room needs a major refit so the modelling will be on hold for a few weeks/months, I'll keep an update on the forum section.

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Brake light? then its red? confusing or what!
I've got some LEDS that show red, blue, green, yellow. in rotation that would cover all eventualities.

Thanks to all for the debate, Ill include it in my build - all agreed its white ?

Nice work Rob, but don't go near any powerful magnets or it'll be ripped from you hands or worse still sail off into the distance.

Doug , brake repaired thanks,
I use Zap Z-Poxy 15 min 8oz Epoxy Resin which comes in two bottles, however to ensure a correct mix I weigh the two components using jewelry scales which measure small amounts very accurately. I also use this method when weighing glass fibre resins and have never had any curing problems, and yes warming the bottles (or tubes) will help with dispensing.
PS. jewelry scales are really cheap (£4.50) on ebay and very useful.

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Nerys, I think "similar" may be the problem in my experience you get what you pay for, I worked in an industry where we used epoxy resins and there are hundreds of formulated resins for specific purposes and they are not always interchangeable. So give it a try and do some samples of different joints with both types of epoxy and then do a break test to see what happens.
let us know

Thanks Doug most helpful, Ill get on with the dis-ch/ch process.
Not sure I can justify the expense of that charger at the moment.
again many thanks

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I’ve seen a number of attempts at hose manufacture both on this site and on others, so it’s my turn to suggest a method of manufacture.
First I measured the approximate length of each of the hoses as suggested visually from the detailed drawings supplied by Mike Cummings. The length required was approximately 12” – 13” so the first operation was to source a length of 5/16” x 15” long steel.
This was centre drilled in one end so it could be supported with a revolving centre in the lathe and a 1.7 mm dia hole drill across the diameter about 11/2” from one end for the wire to be fed through and secured.
The tool post had two felt pads squashed by a metal plate to tension the wire as its pulled through onto the rod, I used the screw cutting feature set at 10 TPI as after a little trial and error this seemed to give the best looking structure to the final covered pipe.
One safety point to mention is that the coil of wire, prior to forming should be secured on a piece of dowel e.g. brush handle; this allows it to be freely pulled out through the tool post.
I had sourced some galvanised steel wire 1.5 mm dia (large coil) for the job so passing the end through the 1.7mm hole and bending it back so it wouldn’t be pulled out when the lathe is started. The speed was set at 200 rpm and the hose inner is starting to form, keep an eye on the coil so it’s freely rotating and as we are travelling from the chuck to the tailstock watch for the wire coming towards the tailstock centre and be ready to stop.
The wire can now be detached from the steel shaft.
Using the screw cutting method gives an accurate spacing requiring no adjustment to spacing before the shrink sleeve is applied; however a jig is required to hold the pipes in a circular aspect while they cool.
Finally I can epoxy the ends in place first putting 2 bands of red shrink sleeve on the tube to be shrunk at the joints after the epoxy has set.

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CRash tender going slow and your right the boys freeman is nearly finished, good job its his Birthday in two weeks.
however still been doing a bit hoses now finished. I must get going with the painting, I have all the paints as per your recommendations, so with weather prospects being better maybe its time to get going

Hi Doug thanks for that most useful.
I have the capacity meter but no lead from battery to meter , I have the servo plugs and xt60 plugs/sockets plus crimping tool & wire. I am capable of producing the lead so that's OK, BUT I notice that the NiMh socket on the meter has tree pins but the lead I need to make has only 2 wires + & -. looking at your pics I can see the + is to the centre pin and - to an outside pin, I made the lead up and it works OK giving reading on both batteries (see pic)
so what next - discharge/charge 3 times?
These batteries will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together?

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Rob sent of for some 4mm trim you recommended and it arrived today and I was impressed with the inclusion of application instructions. I will try it first on the Freeman 22 I am building for my Grandson.

Help needed please, I’m not an electrics man
I purchased this charger and two battery packs about 6 months ago and It’s been in the box ever since. And I am now getting round to sorting the electrics on my crash tender. however reading the forum article on “Batteries in a DX5e” I am now concerned that the batteries are in trouble. I Have the manual but to honest I can’t make any sense of the particular situation I have eg I have checked the output voltage on each battery not under any load and they both read 9.5v.
What do I do next – discharge - charge – for how long etc
Thanks⚡

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Good to see you back BOATSHED

Whats Next ?

Here is one of Robs original drawings