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Registered
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Last Online
13th Dec 2024

mturpin013

Member Stats

Stats
Member No.	#	4473
Registered	📅	15th Sep 2017
Last Online	📅	13th Dec 2024
City	📍	Leeds
Country	🇬🇧	United Kingdom
Gender	♂️	Male
Age	👶	Not Provided
Posts	💬	1561
Followers	📣	16
Likes Received	👍	4943
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🇬🇧 Redpopman ( Chief Petty Officer 1st Class)

🇺🇸 paulkat1 ( Able Seaman)

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🇬🇧 ChrisG ( Commander)

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🇬🇧 tturpin17 ( Petty Officer 2nd Class)

🇬🇧 neilmc ( Warrant Officer)

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Admiral

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1547 Points Away From Fleet Admiral!

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The Marlin Cabin Cruiser (Vintage Model Works)

This the latest offering from Vintage Model Works which is a 36 inch Marlin Cabin Cruiser This model was originally an important model release for Vernon, being the first of its kits that was large enough to take the bulky radio control gear of the day. It appeared in 1953 at 72s/11d (£94 today) and was reviewed in the November Model Maker who found the design, with its rounded cabin and open front cockpit, the 'nicest looking power boat yet kitted'. It was for 1cc to 5cc diesel power or a large electric motor such as the 12V Taco However todays specification is somewhat different Power – Overlander T3548/05 Speed controller – Hobbywing Quirun 90 Propeller – 45mm 2 blade Battery – Turnigy 2200 Mah 3s 25c Lipo Radio Flysky FS16x 6 channel

mturpin013

1 year ago

10 Attributes

2 Comments

Vosper MTB 379

This model was built with the occasional help of my grandson. It was constructed from plan

mturpin013

3 years ago

10 Attributes

5 Comments

RIVER POLICE LAUNCH circa 1950

METROPOLITAN POLICE THAMES DIVISION RIVER POLICE LAUNCH circa 1950 MODEL BUILT BY MICHAEL P TURPIN 2021 TO 1:12 SCALE FROM VINTAGE MODEL WORKS KIT At this scale, the model represents a launch measuring 30ft in length and 8ft 9” in the beam. It is one of the standard types as built by Tough Brothers of Teddington, employing the partially diagonal planking system which produces a lightweight but strong hull. The engine was of sufficient power to provide an efficient speed of 12 knots in the tidal waters in which it operates. The cabin and seating has been designed such that it is possible to keep an all-around look out whilst on patrol, as well as an open stern area capable for carrying equipment and the recovery of bodies from the water. Operating from their headquarters at Wapping, London the River Police are responsible for law and order on the river. Previous to 1964, they patrolled the Thames from Erith to Teddington but subsequently this range was changed to cover from Dartford Creek to Staines. The model has some construction differences. The hull is ply-sheeted and not planked, and has a box construction for the main internal space. The deck is planked using walnut, as are all its wooden fittings. All metalwork and above-deck fittings are scratch built, the spotlight illuminates and the mast head carries flashing red & blue lights. Power - Turnigy 3548 840KV out-runner brushless motor. Electronic Speed Controller – Hobbywing Quicrun 16BL 30 water cooled. Brass propeller -55 mm 3 blades. Battery pack - Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack. Radio –Flysky FS-I6X 10 channel. Main power switch is the steering wheel and has a dash board which is illuminated. The battery pack, which powers the main motor and the lights through a voltage reduction unit, is housed below the front panel Receiver, ESC and steering servo are all housed beneath the rear seat and back bulkhead.

mturpin013

3 years ago

0 Attributes

9 Comments

Freeman 22

The Freeman 22 was a luxurious cabin cruiser built for the holiday trade. It was moulded in glass fibre in a choice of colours and had an insulated superstructure, with a double berth and two single berths. It was powered by an in-board petrol engine. Length - 22ft Beam - 7ft 6ins Draft - 2ft Cruising speed - 8–9 knots Weight - 26cwt Engine - Ford 105 E watermota with a 2:1 reduction gear on a flexible drive The model of the Freeman 22 was a free plan given in the Model Boat magazine and was a project for my grandson who actively worked on all aspects of the build, the parts were all cut using a fret saw and trimmed with a sander and then built up on a building board. The hull is sheeted in ply as is the deck and superstructure. The hull was fibre glassed for additional strength and then painted using acrylic paints. Length – 23" Beam - 7" Power – MFA Como 457RE540/1 brushed motor Electronic Speed Controller – Viper Marine 15 Brass propeller 30 mm 3 blade Battery pack – NiMh 9.6 V 5000 mAH Radio - Turnigy Mini CH5 D/R

mturpin013

3 years ago

9 Attributes

2 Comments

Crash Tender

A 3 year build It has a lot of working detail - Fire monitors, spot light/rotates, cabin lights, cantilever cabin roof, detailed cabin interior, smoke unit a little more detail:- Hobbywing Seaking 120A-V3 Speed Controller Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5045-660KV Brushless Outrunner Motor Hobbywing Boat ESC Programming Card 9.6v 50000 mah Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) Battery Packs x 2 Later replaced for longer run time by Turnigy High Capacity 5200mAh 4S 12C LiHV Pack w/XT60 x 1

mturpin013

4 years ago

0 Attributes

9 Comments

Freeman 22 Norfolk broads’ cruiser

This little boat was done for my 5yr old grandson alongside doing my crash tender. Its from a free plan issued in Model Boat magazine.

mturpin013

5 years ago

0 Attributes

12 Comments

Members Blogs

26 Posts

21 Followers

309 Likes

The Marlin Cabin Cruiser (Vintage Model Works)

01 Introduction Again after the finishing of the Vintage Model Works Police Boat I decided to have a go at their latest offering which is a 36 inch Marlin Cabin Cruiser This model was originally an important model release for Vernon, being the first of its kits that was really large enough to take the bulky radio control gear of the day. It appeared in 1953 at 72s/11d (£94 today) and was reviewed in the November Model Maker who found the design, with its rounded cabin and open front cockpit, the 'nicest looking power boat yet kitted'. It was for 1cc to 5cc diesel power or a large electric motor such as the 12V Taycol Super marine.

mturpin013

1 year ago

16 Posts

27 Followers

221 Likes

MTINGA IV

This is a sailing ketch called “Inga IV”. It is German kit of a sailing ketch which is now out of production. The model is approx 52″ in total height and 43″ from bow to stern. It has a traditional full length keel and almost sails itself when on the lake. All decks and superstructure are plywood with much of it being mahogany veneered and coated with many layers of varnish.” I have just purchased an Inga IV which is in reasonable condition, however it looks as if its not been touched for a great number of years so I intend to repair and replace fittings and wood as required. This is a picture from the web

mturpin013

10 months ago

14 Posts

16 Followers

118 Likes

Vosper MTB379

As did another member on the site succumb to the charm of a grandson, I too have fallen for it, again. The first one was a cabin cruiser but apparently it really doesn’t go fast enough despite an engine transplant and a bigger prop and larger capacity battery. So “what would you like” –“a Motor Torpedo Boat please grandad” Enter the Vosper MTB379. My grandson trawled the plans service web sites and eventually settled on a 23”Vosper MTB, the plans were purchased and duly arrived a couple of days later, 3 sheets in all giving enough detail to build a nice example of the type. My grandson was keen to be involved in all aspects of the build but as always with an 8 year old he expected things to happen somewhat faster than a human being could manage. The first job was to prepare a building board with appropriate brackets and 90 degree supports to ensure a symmetrical build. Next comes the transfer the bulkhead patterns onto the wood I find the easiest way to do this is to scan the bulkhead parts onto A4 sheets single sticky labels, these are easily applied to the wood and very easy to remove after cutting out the shape of each part. The plans call for a number of the construction parts to be in balsa, however I’m not really keen on working in balsa so I decided to use “light ply” instead and using some thinner sections to compensate for any weight difference. We worked on cutting out the paper plans together and placing them on the ply. Then next comes the "constant supervision" part – using the scroll saw, he has used it before and became quite good, keeping a straight line in the most part, the saw has a protective guard around the blade and a pressure foot so is really quite easy to use although any lack of concentration can lead to an interesting profile. The novelty doesn’t last long and it’s time for him to go home until next week leaving me to complete the task ready for next weeks instalment. However its really important to get youngsters interested in the hobby and so far he has proved to be interested and quite good at it.

mturpin013

3 years ago

1 Post

1 Follower

6 Likes

Planking the side panels

On the real boat the side panels are actually the inside faces of the planked hull and are angled at about 45 degrees, so to try and simulate this I decided to plank some side panels to fit down the sides of the lower deck, Once again I used some 0.8 mm ply as a backing. The backing sheets were cut to the shape of the box side which is tapered towards the stern, next I cut lengths of plank at random to mix the different shades and the ends are cut to 45 degrees so they can be set against the bottom edge when gluing, these are then laid on the backing sheet in position ready for gluing. The backing ply is stuck to the building matt (which in turn is stuck to the building board) with double sided tape, this will stop the sheet warping when the glue is drying, it also allows me to fasten a piece of wood along the bottom edge to push each plank against and also to rest the angled “ply pusher” (see picture) against it to ensure each plank is at 45 degrees and is pushed up against the corking. I work from a full length plank first to give a firm piece to push subsequent planks against, I will work from this plank to the right and then finish planks to the left. The process is quite repetitive – spread an area with glue just in front of the last plank then lay a strip of black card against that last plank making sure its covered in glue, then take the next plank and lay in the glue and using the angled “ply pusher” push the plank securely home, then remove any excess glue and repeat the process. This whole process takes about an hour to place all the planks in place, the side piece is then left to fully dry and the second side is prepared ready to glue. Since the sides are planked with walnut timber its only right that the end sections are treated in the same manner to give a consistent look. For this I had already purchased some walnut veneer which I used on the motor housing. Pieces where cut to size for each end then the surfaces were coated with aliphatic glue and the veneer pushed against each end and pressed home using “ply springs” (bendy ply sticks)against a flat board. Once the ends are set I can then cut out the various apertures that were previously cut out for the wires, pipe ducts and fuse holders, these are carefully cut using taper cutters and small files. There is a video clip showing my process, please forgive the background music and heavy breathing, it sounds like I'm on my last legs, it must be a very sensitive microphone on the camera

mturpin013

4 years ago

51 Posts

23 Followers

415 Likes

Vintage Model Works Thames Police Launch by M Turpin

Check all parts are present I decided my next build would be from Vintage Model Works as I was pleased with my last build - the 46" Crash Tender, which I have to say hasn't seen water yet due to the dreaded virus. What a delight opening a new kit, that slightly smokey smell of laser cut ply and balsa wood. The parts are listed in order of material type, balsa/ply/white metal. A quick count of each section confirmed all the parts were present and correct. The plan caused some concern as I didn’t have a wall big enough to pin it up. So first I decided to tape the two sheets together, I observed that at the overlap point some of the text was on one sheet and not on the other so when taped together some text was lost, but this was easily remedied by cutting a rather irregular cut line during the joining process. Issue overcome, now to solve the wall issue. The border around the plan was generous to say the least so I removed this making the sheet more manageable (I still ended up folding a corner along the ceiling. The instruction sheet supplied has I believe been updated from the original as written by Phil Smith, and at first read looks quite comprehensive, however your never sure of a set of instruction being read and making sense without your hands on the pieces and a bottle of glue in hand (it’s about getting in “The Zone”) so on with the build. * The picture is borrowed from a museum item

mturpin013

3 years ago

86 Posts

45 Followers

826 Likes

The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works

Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.

mturpin013

3 years ago

Recent Posts

📝 MYFORD ML10

11 days ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 36 Views · 1 Like

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Zooma please check your private messages

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zooma

📝 Models being built

2 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 70 Views · 9 Likes

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Or is it "NOT" being built.

What has happened to all the build blogs that used to appear in the section headed "Build Blogs", all we seem to get are a few "during" the build and then the maiden voyage.
There were a lot of builders and just readers who relied on the assistance of detailed - (in text and picture) blogs.
It made this site so much more interesting.
I appreciate it takes a lot of time to produce a detailed blog but I'm sure it will be appreciated.
I just need to finish my Inga IV blog then there's an interesting steam project on
the horizon. So please put pen and pictures together to produce some interesting blogs, and don't forget to give some credit to the author's by making comment and suggestions rather than the easy option of a "like"

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💬 Re: A Fan for the Motor

4 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 98 Views · 10 Likes

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Hi Rob good to see you back, if you remember I did that mod on my Crash tender when I built mine (3 years ago now, doesn't time fly) mine was slightly different in that I used the prop adaptor but mounted the fan as a prop so a greater distance from the motor.
As for efficiency/power loss, when your powering from a 5s as I am as well it doesn't really matter as there's an abundance of power to spare
Those fire monitors look familiar too, I guess Stephen took the tip do his pump water?

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📝 Bending 7/32” tubing

5 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 73 Views · 7 Likes

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I usually block one end with a wooden plug then fill with molten solder let it cool, then bend to shape, finally heat up to melt solder
If your using brass or copper tube then its best to anneal it first
I've used this method up to 6mm brass tube. see picture solder still in 4mm tube

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💬 Re: CGINGA1V

5 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 24 Views · 5 Likes

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Hi Chris I've not been modelling for some time so only just got back to the site and pleased to see your IngaIV sailing so well. I've just about finished mine but had some issues with sails trying various fixings and materials however I've made a set with a cotton material using the mast channels as fixings as designed and they seem to look correct and in keeping with the model. I will make a set from Ripstop material just to see the difference but I'm not keen on the square pattern in the material.
Anyway enough about my sails, so again congratulations on a successful completion of your build, I hope you are as pleased as the the rest of the members are with your build, you should be, well done.

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📝 Lady Jane

6 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 33 Views · 1 Like

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Hi Andy that sounds good I will PM you to discuss

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Len1

📝 Lady Jane

6 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 67 Views · 8 Likes

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I have acquired some Maxwell Hemmens original GRP hulls, some are for sale but I need the build manual either for the GRP hull or the Plank on frame either will help me to make a start on a build

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📝 Drifter Trawler Boat Formidable LT100

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 40 Views · 4 Likes

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Thanks for all your replies they are most helpful

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📝 Drifter Trawler Boat Formidable LT100

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 71 Views · 6 Likes

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Has anybody built a Drifter Trawler Boat Formidable LT100
Im looking for plans and instruction manual and any pictures of a build

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💬 Re: CGINGA1V

7 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 109 Views · 5 Likes

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Hi Chis my method of holding the planks is a wooden clamp where the pin sticks in the sub deck slightly away from the plank and the wooden clamp pushes down on the plank holding it in place avoiding any marks to the new plank, but I do like your method and will give it a go next time.

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📝 Deans Marine

8 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 88 Views · 4 Likes

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Unfortunately I had abusive language from Mr Dean some years ago when I queried a refund issue so I no longer use his services

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💬 Re: CGINGA1V

8 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 124 Views · 7 Likes

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Hi Chris I too haven't been on the site much myself so missed your post, anyway I hope your back on the road to recovery the progress looks good

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📝 City of Sheffield Tyne lifeboat

8 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 39 Views · 7 Likes

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Hi Roger a great result a testament to your building skills.
A subject close to my heart, I look in despair sometimes at the flood of 3D printed parts that take away the traditional skill of model making from raw materials its nice to see your efforts.

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📝 Fibreglass hulls

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 80 Views · 0 Likes

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I'm looking for a Hull length of 40" / 42" would be ideal, to carry a pay-load of around 6 LBs
Does anybody have details of a seller?

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📝 Full Steam Ahead

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 43 Views · 4 Likes

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Gary , yes I think your right because I was surprised by the weight of the boiler alone when I unpack it ,so yes I will be making that check first.
Andi1 the blog on the Inga iv is already a long way through

blogs/108353

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📝 Full Steam Ahead

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 82 Views · 16 Likes

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I placed an order last September for my Christmas present from my wife and it arrived today. The push that made me go for steam was after a visit to a fellow modeller who is a "master of steam" and he showed me around his most impressive workshop and the steam models he had made.

GaryLC (Captain) kindly gave me a twin cylinder oscillating steam engine and a hull to get me started in steam.
So Gary we are "Full Steam Ahead"

PS it may be a while before I start the new project as I have the Inga IV yacht to finish first.

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💬 Re: Winch setup finally decided

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 124 Views · 2 Likes

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Great winch layout

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Len1

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💬 Re: Wheelhouse Windows

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 52 Views · 3 Likes

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Very inventive way of cutting out the windows, I did exactly the same when cutting my window frames for the Marlin only using a mini pedestal drill

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Len1

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Wolle

💬 Re: MV Sarinda

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 52 Views · 0 Likes

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Some great pictures as they say-
"A picture paints a thousand words", however some words would be good to explain your building techniques, that would help others in their quest to improve their building skills.

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📝 Sea rover cabin cruiser

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 92 Views · 1 Like

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Hi Schmango it would have been nice to see some pictures of the detailed work you carried out.

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Len1

💬 Re: Kathryn - a Thames Bawley - 5

9 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 40 Views · 6 Likes

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Hi Flax, your system is very much like mine as you say it needs to be removed easily I also have just 2 screws to remove the whole winch system

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💬 Re: Rigging

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 44 Views · 3 Likes

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Hi flaxbybuck the 4mm eyes will screw down into the hull, the only part visible will be the three eyes on each fitting that attach to the turnbuckles along with a touch of epoxy
PS I may put a nut directly under the brass fitting as well

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📝 Rigging

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 63 Views · 14 Likes · 5 Comments

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The rigging for each mast was originally fastened to the deck with a rather unsightly piece of brass wire looped through the deck and glued underneath. I was sure I could improve on this however it may not be to everybody’s taste but a you may have noticed if there’s an easy way and a hard way I usually go for the hard way which tends to be much more time consuming and more difficult but for me much more enjoyable.
I wanted the rigging to be easily assembled at the lakeside so attaching the wires must be easily done; each wire has a turnbuckle at its end to tension the wires with an attachment point directly by a 4mm eye. I have decided to use a fishermen’s device, which is normally for attaching a trace wire (I think) it’s just a quick way of attaching the wire (this may change on final assembly it could end up as a simple hook (picture later)) This device then attaches to the eye, which is fastened to the deck. As I said in the original plan, it shows a piece of 1mm brass wire pushed through the deck and epoxied under the deck leaving a loop on deck. Although this works, I wanted to do something a bit more robust and challenging and bring a bit of finesse to the yacht. Therefore, I produced a fitting for each of the four securing positions.

These were made from 1.5mm brass sheet which was cut and filed to the double bulge on deck and straight on the sides the joint line was also filed to the curve of the sides to make a snug fit the two pieces were then silver soldered to form an angle piece. After trimming and polishing each piece had the 3 holes drilled and tapped M2 to take treaded eye bolt fitting, these will go through the deck and help make a secure fitting

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Nickthesteam

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📝 Best sail material for yachts ?

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 54 Views · 1 Like

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The real yacht, I'm not sure when the real yacht was first built.

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hermank

📝 Best sail material for yachts ?

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 74 Views · 2 Likes

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Thanks Chris, Ill be interested in your findings.

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PeterL3

ChrisG

📝 Best sail material for yachts ?

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 76 Views · 7 Likes

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Do we have any experts in sail making, especially material types
I'm making sails for an Inga IV

blogs/108353

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💬 Re: CGINGA1V

10 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

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Hi Chris not been on the site for a while however your alternative build seems to be going really well I look forward to seeing the finished yacht

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ChrisG

💬 Re: Updated mechanism

11 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

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Great stuff Graham I'm glad to see you back. It seems a lot of the old crew have not been very active lately, I'm not sure if that's a permanent situation, I hope not.
Anyway back to your latest creation, as you will remember I'm more the mechanical solution type and I really admire your electronic ability, I'm afraid as soon as the wires enter the circuit board I'm lost.

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📝 Motor and prop shaft issues

11 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 87 Views · 7 Likes

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Your noise is simply the joint, you would be better spending your time aligning the shaft and motor exactly and using a solid joint, use some hard rubber in your motor mount which will remove most of the noise transmitted though the solid mounting and the hull acting like an old horn gramophone.

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hermank

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📝 Non true brass prop shaft in a kit.

11 months ago by 🇬🇧 mturpin013 (

Admiral)

✧ 94 Views · 5 Likes

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The only way is to hold the shaft in a lathe chuck and using a dial indicator tap it until it reads true
I have found many commercial shafts out of true and so I always make my own they are so easy to make not requiring any specialist machines just hand tools. I use K&N brass tube and standard silver steel with Olite or phosphor bronze bushes in each end. The most difficult part is threading the shaft but with care can be done successfully (agreed best done in the lathe), and its cheaper.

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