Always something to learn no mater how long you've been at it, and I've been at it for a long time!

The white metal items supplied are OK but really don‘t lend themselves to being working items. Graham93 has already completed a version which looks just like the drawing and photos available, and are the best I’ve seen. The bar has been set so here goes, whenever an item like this is been contemplated it’s always good to spend some time in planning a sequence of operations and assessing the problem area’s at the start of the work and if possible dealing with these parts first. Failure of the difficult process doesn’t mean you have wasted work on other parts that are now scrap.
I think the most difficult and problematic piece is the pipework that sits at the top and curves round in two halves, this in reality is a casting, however replicating it can be done using brass pipe. Brass pipe can be purchased in annealed form; however my stock wasn’t so the first job was to anneal the tube.
Heating to a dull red heat and allowed to cool, this treatment will soften the metal completely. In some books it is suggested that the brass should be quenched in water (which is what I do) after heating but this is to speed up the commercial process, and quenching has no effect on the annealing process. So tube annealed we need some method of retaining its tubular form during bending, in plumbing I use a spring but when you compare wall thickness/dia a spring would have to be mighty strong and so small.
An easy alternative is to crimp one end of the tube and put some soldering flux down the tube, follow this by heating with a low temperature blow torch to melt solder and fill the tube, then allow to cool.
You now have a soft tube which when bent will hold its shape. That’s the next challenge, the shape, and being able to replicate it twice, so an easy jig is required.
Having marked out a scrap piece of hardwood I cut the “U” shape using the band saw and filled a groove along the top edge, this was then placed under my drill press with the appropriate dia bar (this must be calculated accurately as it helps to create the final form) on top of the tube, then just pull gently down (it takes very little force) this jig leave a small amount to finish bend to a complete a circle, the excess length is trimmed off and then I used a piece of hard wood with a small radius on the end to tap the final curve.
Next the circle needs to be cut into two pieces I used a small slitting saw in the milling machine. Now it’s time to remove the solder, simply heat up holding in plyers and then shake vigorously to expel the solder. (Make sure you do this on your own and wear safety glasses.)
The white metal “main pillar fitting” and the monitors final “exit pipe” will be used in the unit and all that is required is to mount them in the lathe and drill a 4mm hole through each and clean up the casting. Next I cut 4 pieces of 4mm brass pipe; these will form the main water passage. Two more machine turned items are the “pivot post top” that feeds water through the 2 brass pipes into the “junction block” which then feeds into the exit pipe, sounds all very simple?
Having made all the components, it’s time to think about fastening them all together. First items to be joined are the “upstand pipe” to the “pivot post top” X 2 also the “feed to exit pipe” and the “junction block” X 2, these four joints are all to be silver soldered.
I mounted them in a piece of wood and placed a tight spring brass ring around the upright pipe to stop then sliding down when heated. Having the joints spotlessly clean is paramount, the flux is added, I insert very small pieces of silver solder into the holes at the top cross holes (less is more) a gentle heat, and watch as the flux goes “glassy”, this is closely followed by the solder melting, watching at the lowest point of the joint for the tell-tale shinny liquid metal.
No fettling is required so the 4 parts are dipped for 45 minutes in masonry brick cleaner (dilute hydrochloric acid) the parts are now clean and ready for the next soldering activity. See part 2

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Hi JB what type of pump are you using ,is it a Peristaltic type? Also where did you buy the IC 3 way fuel tap , its a nice looking one and in the correct orientation.
Michael

Yes I agree with jbkiwi, its good for big structural jobs where apprearence is secondary to strenght, but not a pretty sight

Have you thought of using a sail servo. I'm just about to trial my system, (I just finished painting my efforts which will be in my blog shortly.) Looking at this type of servo it seems this one just rotates 360 degrees.
Or have I got this wrong? I'm just about to purchase one, so thoughts please before I do.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/sw5513-4ma-sailwinch-servo-10-63kg-55g-0-9.html

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Are the shafts ball bearing at both ends? and can’t you get sealed bearings. I have a bearing shaft but only on the inboard end and that is sealed.

Really nice work Graham, does the copper water inlet pipe below the cabin roof rotate?
If as I think it does, then having 270 deg really isn’t required or appropriate as the pipe will get twisted and hopefully you will be only spraying water over the side (not back and front as guns do) and only having squrting power on one side of the boat will not really be noticeable.

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really good show, went last year

https://www.blackpoolmodelshow.co.uk/event/blackpool-model-show-2019-/

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It must be very satisfying to see all your hard work in action, well done.

Very nice piece of work, Its funny that I am also doing exactly the same job at present.

as others have said measure twice - cut once, try fit twice - glue and pin once, taking your time is no bad thing, rushing this type of work only results in a poor end product and rework of rushed work. Im still working on mine over a year after starting

Its looking like a good planed build keep it up.

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Go to your local DIY and get the two part wood filler from Cuprinol. It sands really well and is quick, you can mix a small amount and within 10 -15 mins its ready to sand.

Thats fine, I can see with an enlaged view on my computer as opposed to my phone, I think its a paper one ?

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Sorry, I did understand the question but I’m not a mind reader and your harbour shows an African Queen which does apparently have something that looks like a boiler - hence the question. I’ll leave it to your next door neighbour then.
PS post and phone?

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Really good work, I wish I could go at that speed, Im hoping to have mine finished for next summer🤞

I’m surprised you haven’t contacted “GaryLC” who asked some time ago if there were any other steam enthusiasts on this site. He posted just last week about any members in the north east who would like to get together. Look him up on the site.
PS whats the problem with the existing boiler? I assume its the African Queen in your harbour your doing

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"well what can i say it sort of works" that an under statement, its brilliant.
What we need now are some detailed drawing so we can all have a go. please.

Here we are, a year later and we went again to the York model boat regatta at Laytham Camping and Caravan Park. It was time to give my first boat its maiden voyage. You may have seen the boat in my harbour, the Freeman 22 Norfolk broads’ cruiser which now belongs to my grandson. I managed to finish it for his 6th birthday hence the name (Tyler JWT 6). It sailed very well and achieved a realistic speed, turned well and reversed-turned very quickly.

I am going to make some adjustments to its weight distribution because although built to specification I felt it sailed too low in the water and slightly bow heavy. So the solution is to remove one of the 6 cell NiMh batteries which is only there to balance the weight, the powering single battery will now be located in a central position slightly towards the stern.
I’m now looking to join this club which has been really welcoming in a fantastic location.
PS hopefully video to follow

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Coming together nicely, I agree it’s often more interesting and rewarding to make your own parts.

We have a touring caravan and were staying on a site in Hanley Swan

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Sorry can't make suggestions however, assuming you had it wired correctly (take a picture) of both units wired up. I would then definately contact the manufacturer and send the pictures to them
Good look
PS just been on holiday near your location, a nice part of the country

Question from a non-electronics - how do you get the servo to rotate continuously?

Really good looking boat, a credit to you

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Gary had a look on that site and yes some interesting materials and fittings, Thanks

Graham, the boat is looking great, as others have said a new coat always improves things. I can also confirm the issue with spray tins (Acrylic) as the boat Ive just finiashed for my grandson had the same issue. Im am spraying my crash tender with commercial cellulose using compressor and spray gun and although the drying time is also an issue in terms of time after a couple of weeks it hard enough to treat with flatting compond to achieve that polished finish

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Hi Gary, hope your OK, not started any major moves on the boat yet but still buzzing ideas about re- building a boiler. Anyway hope you have some luck with other sailors, I agree its better with a group
Michael

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Good to see another boat back on the water

some pictures along with text commentary tell a good story

Pete, Im Mike (mturpin013) reffered to in Mouldbuilders post, Happy to give any advise on the build as you go on the journey, as I also think Rob will, he gave me a lot of support with my build.

Your correct it is capt James t. Kirk at the helm this was my grandsons request and he had to keep his laser gun. Ill do some more detail on elctrics soon but the switch pannel was also his request, It had to have lots of switches (not all really needed but we have to please) but now Im going on holiday.

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