Here in UK these clamps on coat hangers come free with all the clothes my wife buys😂
They are mostly detachable and usable without modification but are really useful having a deep throat on some of them.

Its great to see another Crash Tender back on the water, It looks the part and I'm sure you will enjoy sailing her
Well Done

HobbyKing 90A Boat ESC

Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5045-660KV Brushless Outrunner Motor

HobbyKing Boat ESC Programming Card

9.6v 50000 mah Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) Battery Packs x 2

Should we be amazed? No!
Its fantastic Graham, I think your decision to paint the hull has turned out to be the right one, there's enough polished wood inside to give the boat a realistic appearance. Your ingenuity has really been demonstrated in this project, something for prospective row boat builders to follow, we wait in anticipation for the maiden voyage.

"Also the location of outlet for the water cooling".
I think the water outlets are through the exhaust outlet. as on most boats
check out "The Rear Mufflers" in www.PT-boat.com
"The objective here is to make six mufflers that are operational and can be used to suck water up for use in cooling the motors"

Great job Graham, Its put a lot of thoughts in my head for a future project so its on the list of jobs to do but before that I have a steam boiler to construct for my steam launch and a commission piece to start soon. I'm looking forward to seeing it in action as I suppose most of the site members are, role on the end of lock-down so we can get back to sailing. I particularly like the name you've given the boat, very apt considering the the mechanics and electronics you've made to create what for a lot of none modellers will appear to be a simple action of rowing a boat, little do they know what it takes
well done

Great work Rob, as you say detailing is addictive, as I have found (I may have another post for the crash tender)

A 3 year build yet to have its maiden voyage
a little more detail:-
HobbyKing 90A Boat ESC

Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5045-660KV Brushless Outrunner Motor

HobbyKing Boat ESC Programming Card

9.6v 50000 mah Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) Battery Packs x 2

My approach would be to construct a frame to stabilise the fibreglass hull and avoid any twisting, this is essential to enable accurate measurements to be made with regards to the position of the motors and associated shaft tubes. Take a look at the attached picture and scale the positions to your hull
I hope this helps

how many have you got Colin -(tell the truth)⛵

Its nice to see a different boat, looking forward to seeing the build

The final craft 😜 I thought I'd just post some final pictures that I sent to the manufactures of the kit. The build has taken nearly 3 years to complete and I have to say its been an absolute pleasure to build. Although it was a "kit" and very comprehensive it is, with all the parts to build a complete structure and of course you need to add all the power system and control equipment I found that it allowed the individual to add as much or as little personal touches as you want whilst still being able to produce a sailing model with a minimum addition of personal touches
You will, if you have read the full blog realised that I have taken full advantage of adding all the additional personal touches I can. There is an awful amount of credit to be given to the members of this site who have contributed to my build in the form of advise, comments both truthful/cryptic but mostly very helpful, and also in the form of electronic devises custom built to my specification.
I finally finished the "Display stand" and the transport box and thought people may appreciate some pictures of the boat in "display mode" showing all the internal detail, I often visit shows and want to be looking inside models to look at the construction methods and individual details that I can use in my future builds.
Anyway I hope you have enjoyed the blog as much as I have writing it but most of all all building it. This is a fantastic site and my thanks also go to Stephen who is the creator of this facility and has given so much pleasure to so many modellers.
Keep an eye out for the next build

Having enlarged the picture it is plain to see the item isn't very good as there are rough file marks along the edges so I suspect it was made rather than been supplied with a kit.
PS not criticising the maker just stating what I see and may I agree that they could be easily made from brass wire or thin sheet.

Rob Its looking really good as you say take your time and see the benefit

A very nice looking boat you must be really pleased with it.

Unfortunately although the club lake is open, both myself and my wife are shielding until the end of this month, Its been a long time but keeping busy, I will be starting a new build soon so looking forward to that.

Just for information the Turnigy Receiver Controlled Switch are in stock with Hobby King £7.05

Nice detail well executed, most mechanisms on our models are never used but are really appreciated by everyone who sees them

I had a similar issue with the "mini servo" I had on the spotlight of the crash tender it was jerky and finally just buzzed, got extremely hot (melting) and then stopped. I have a feeling it was because it was a cheap china import. I paid more for a replacement which seems OK at the moment but time will tell.

That's great to hear

Whilst putting some finishing touches to the boat, like raising the ensign, I find ,as I thought that the cleats to which the ropes that hold the mast and flag in position are really not up to the job, white metal fittings not my favourite. Solution get on the lathe and manufacture some replacements. Using some 16 mm brass bar I first machined flats along a length long enough to make 4 cleats (40 mm)to a thickness of 6.5 mm. This was done to make it easier rather than trying to hold each individual piece in the miller and put two flats on.
Back in the lathe the diameters were machine and threaded 8 BA, then each one was parted off. Then back on the bench and the profile was filed and the top radius-ed followed by polishing, all done holding each one in a split jig and toolmakers clamp, and finally a coat of lacquer

Hi Rob you now have two for the price of one or should that be (2 for THE EFFORT of one) (or twice the effort for one) whatever, a nice piece of wood work, I must say this is the best part of construction of a boat for me

Excellent work Graham the more I see the more tempted I am. I was looking at the forum piece on the Tina row boat and Doug has come up with an electronic unit that may well solve my lack of electronic skills any comments?

Hi Doug, this system really appeals, I said to Graham that I fancied doing the row boat but the electronics would be the sticking point so this is the solution, a translation would be great if its not to much trouble and I'm sure I'm not the only interested party.

Absolutely fabulous Graham, really well thought out and engineered, I think sometimes we "boaters" don't always use the available range of servos to best effect.

Still here but no boat construction recently, however here's my solution for drilling holes in bulkheads, note that some "bits" are made from screwdriver bits which are ground into drill bits, there is also an adaptor for the commonly available mini screwdriver sets /blades often screws end up in the most inaccessible places as I have found during the crash tender build, not everything can be planned. The main angle adaptor is driven by a cordless drill

Agreed Colin, I worked in precision engineering for over 40 years and used very expensive British tools, however when your retired and having to pay for it yourself the tools from China and Japan are a great alternative and great value.

Very Nice Graham a credit to you. Its much bigger than I expected now its next to the crash tender.

lovely job Colin, I bet you can't wait to sail her

Thats looking really nice Rob, up to your usual high standard. What are you using for the rubber?