If it works better than the Turnigy I'll have one.
I hope it will come with instructions /descriptions of what it actually does, for the newbys😁

Sorry to hear that Marky, be positive, keep smiling, I hope all goes well for you.

The prop shaft was fitted during the initial build and lined up with the motor as close as possible however the final fitting takes a little more time. The first obstacle to overcome is the brass propeller I purchased has a 4 mm thread and the shaft is a 5 mm thread. Because of the shape of a propeller it is impossible to hold it in a tree jaw chuck or indeed the collets, this means that a jig has to be designed in order that the propeller can be held in a three jaw chuck perfectly true. The jig is quite difficult to descried but it has to fit around the parallel part of the prop (which is only between the blades), and to ensure concentricity the point of the prop also needs to be supported. Now secure and running perfectly true the new thread can be machined. To increase the hole size it can’t be drilled out using a normal drill, this is because the drill will be pushed off centre by the uneven cutting of the existing 4mm thread, so the hole is enlarged using a stub flat bottom drill, or a slot drill this will ensure the hole is machined true. The thread can now be cut in the newly machined hole.
The motor and shaft can now be aligned; initial alignment is done by a solid brass connecter which is then replaced by the flexible coupling. Because the motor mount is made of wood supported by wood and a prop shaft mounted in wood, a final tweak can be made with the motor running and observing the “note” of the motor which will alter when the best alignment is achieved

They are out of stock

Leeds Model Shop 5 mins up the road, how good is that😁

Enjoying the build, coming on very nicely, its always satisfying to make something out of nothing, nice stack

Very nice model, I keep looking at this in my local model shop as a possible next project but I really wanted a wooden hull, is it available with this option? AS I'm really a builder not a sailor.

That,s very impressive work 👍

I like detail, hidden or not

Which supplier do the smokers come from?

Good luck with the move
Michael

Unfortunately I have a half completed steam launch that's next on the list.

Peter, I think you should have retired 10 years ago to get all that put together good luck with the lathe, If you need any help/advice from an ex/still practising toolmaker let me know.
Michael

I have been looking at all sorts of alternative smoking devices and have now come to a system that I think will work for me. I purchased a vaping device which I felt would be a self-contained unit , easily charge easily replenished and would work for a long enough period for a day’s sailing. The system comprises of :-

1 An ecig devise - Smok Stick V8 Kit
2 A water pump –Dosing Pump Mini Peristaltic Self-Priming
3 An air pump DC 5V 6V Mini 370 Motor Air Pump Vacuum Pump Self-Priming
The e cig required some modification in that I needed it to work by a simple switch action that could be incorporated in an electronic circuit rather than the push button on the side of the unit. So I decided to dismantle the unit with some help from You tube the end caps are a push fit in the end of the tube and they are a tight fit. The guy in the video attacks the unit with a rather large hammer, I took a more gentile approach and mounted it in the lathe collects and gently wiggled it loose. This seems simple but it took an hour to release it. Having got the internals out I could see the on/off switch which was part of a circuit board and had tiny soldered joints. Using the multi-meter I determined the terminals that switched on/off and using a big, big, magnifying glass and a modified soldering iron tip I was able to attach two wires. I drilled a small hole in the base and fed the wires through then refitted the end caps, the unit can now be operated either by the button or just connecting the two wires.
I now need an electronic devise to switch the components on/off at varying periods, this is where my electronics expertise comes in – “call a friend” Graham93 Warrant Officer another member on the site had offered to help me out so I gave him details of my requirements which was :-

An E cig device which requires switching on/off pulsed at 3 sec on and 3 seconds off this also needs, at the same time to switch the water pump & air pump on/off at 1sec before the ecig and stay on for 4 Sec and off at the same time. However Graham said he could make the timings’ variable which meant that with experiments I could make the devise work to optimum safety and look realistic. The starting point for timings was:-

See table (table wouldn't reproduce in the text Pic 3)

The device was delivered after a week and it also came with a two page instruction manual, so I wasted no time in testing it, albeit out of the boat and it worked perfectly, at this point I didn’t have the final pump unit. So I then started to fit all the parts into the boat which will let me try it in the bath!

Many thanks to Graham for his contribution to this smoker, It has really performed well.

Ecig smoker

▶️

Commitment Or what 👍

Thanks Peter

Can you please give me the link as I'm looking for my next project

Nicely done, I always look for things that may be used in different ways to that of their intended use.

Electrics continued
The size of the electrical requirements for this vessel seems to be mirroring the real thing.
I need to finish the assembly of the front cabin roof so I can run the wiring harness through the cabin interior before I finally fit all the flooring and control panel. This also means that the cabin lighting has to be fitted as well, these are the imitation strip lights I made earlier, there are 3 in the front cabin, 4 in the mid cabin, and 4 in the rear cabin. The wires all pass through the pre drilled holes and hopefully will be all hidden under the Port and Starboard sides of the boat, they then go into the box containing the circuit board. The pump for the fire monitors needs wiring, and the Turnigy switching device installing to allow the water to be switched on/off from the T/X. Leads will be made up to go from the receiver to the two fire monitor servos. The power for the lights is from a 6V 2500ah battery which will also power the pump for the fire monitors.

First to finish is the wiring in the front cabin roof, I have worked out that I need to bring 8 wires from the roof down into the front cabin and then back to the control box and the spotlight rotation servo lead back to the transmitter (you may remember that the roof is on a hinge system and lifts up). I have used an 8 pin JST Lipo Balance Lead Cable Plug Sets which is quite small enough to be unobtrusive. All the wires come to a socket which is mounted in the sliding cabin recess. The 8 wire leads then goes down to another socket which is mounted above the centre window where the wires continue down two tubes mounted in the window frame and exiting in the front bulkhead space, they can now travel down the side of the boat and exit to the control box and receiver.

Next to complete are the cabin lights, all wires are brought back to the control box and separated into 3 plugs, (front cabin - mid cabin - rear cabin) the filaments are very delicate and need protecting. I used some 0.5 mm polycarbonate sheet. Time for another jig, I used a 5mm steel bar fastened to a piece of 5mm x 10mm wood, this needed to have a mating slotted piece to create the cover. I cut some 20mm strips. 150mm long these were heated with a hot air gun and then it was pressed into the jig, the covers were trimmed to length and then fitted to the light fitting with canopy glue.

The last to be wired are the tow light, the navigation lights and the front cabin “dash board” lights (which are 6v), The tow light and navigation lights are wired straight to a terminal in the power box and the dash lights are wired through another switch and back to the 6v battery.
Each of the sets of lights were checked as they were installed and so far all worked as expected, so now all the wires are tucked away in the under deck space.

Coming along nicely, really nice workmanship.

looks like a good idea' if I have trouble Ill this method, that's when I get to that stage!

When I have built from plans I, lets say for a bulkhead profile, always fold the paper plan in half, hold up to a light, to check the symmetry, and adjust if necessary.
Not sure if this helps

I built a broads cabin cruiser last year but not like your picture and it was a plan given free in the Model Boats magazine

Way out of my price bracket at over £1000, I'll stick with my clunky and old fashioned £45 system (Fly Sky 10 channel) it does all I need. However who knows what the future holds

I agree, "too clever by half" I'm just getting to grips with the micro switch🤔

Bienvenido a bordo👍

Hi Cash the pump is the exact one I have just had problems with. Mine kept going dead I dismantled it on two occasions but nothing to be seen. I opted to buy another make, A Graupner Water Pump 6V which is much better engineered.

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=pumps+&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go%21

🔗

Really nicely finished model

Nicely done Cash, look forward to the maiden voyage

Hi there Ed I'm sorry I can't tell you, I just copied what others had done with my own interpretation.