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Registered 31st Jul 2016
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muddy
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My Susan
My Susan, a Model Boats Plan No: MM925. of an Inshore trawler.
Originally shown built in balsa, this one is built in 6mm ply for keel and bulkheads with Lime planking 6mm x 3mm. Upper works mainly 1.5mm ply and veneer. Deck fittings as in Winch and A frame built from Plasticard. The drive unit is a MFA Gear boxed unit approx. 2.5 : 1. Electroniz speed control unit and a standard Futaba servo for steering. Using 2.4 Ghz: Radio, Futaba.
It looks the part of a Trawler but also useful as a rescue boat, has some Tug Boat tendencies, slow and manoeuvrable, easily transported and does not take up to much space. Either in workshop or floor well of a car.
Regards Muddy
(Pleasure Craft) Tarpon
Tarpon, Built from Model Boat Plans, Plywood Keel with Obechie planks 6 x 3 mm, upperworks/cabin balsa frame and .8mm plywood sides.
All decks are planked, approx 6mm x 3mm a white wood, with .5mm Mahogony "Cauking"..
Open planks and wood were varnished , paint is Wilko Enamel spray Gloss with spray undercoat.
Happy sailing. Muddy.... (Motor: 777) (ESC: Electronize) (8/10)
(Yacht) Starlet
Starlet, built from plans, Bigger brother to the Starbaby. Very easy build in wood and a pleasure to sail.. Roomy yacht. (10/10)
(Yacht) Starbaby Yacht
Starbaby, built from plans, great small yacht for the beginner, and a certain sailer, ideal first wood build yacht. Good performer.. (10/10)
(Naval Ship) Fairmile RTTL
Fairmile RTTL, Fibreglass hull at 1/32nd scale.
4 screws and motors, 3 speed controlers, One speed control running the inner pair of props, the other two controllers running the outer props independantly With Futaba Navy F14. (Motor: 380) (ESC: Electronize x 3) (10/10)
(Working Vessel) Pilot Boat 140
Pilot Boat by Vic Smeed, scaled up from original drawing, to plus 40% approx.. Plank on frame with ply keel and bulkheads. Performs exactly the same as original drawing scale, plough's along, but a good sailer. (Motor: 777) (ESC: Electronize) (5/10)
(Working Vessel) Pilot Boat
Pilot Boat from Model Boat Plans by Vic Smeed.
Very nice small launch, although it originally stated a single screw, i fitted twin screws. Ply keel and bulkheads, plank on frame Obechi 6x3mm . Ply upperworks, Plough's along , enjoyable sailer. (Motor: 380) (ESC: Howes special) (5/10)
(Other) Rosa Smack
Rosa, from Model boat plans, but scaled up.
Ply keel and bulkheads, Walnut 6x3mm plank on frame . (Motor: 380) (ESC: Howes special) (5/10)
(Naval Ship) Harbour Defence Motor Launch
HDML, Drawings and build notes from Model Boats, Fibreglass hull, balsa upper-works and fittings, found this hull to be heavy, but a good all rounder and seaworthy. Battery packs were made up of AA cells. (Motor: 380) (ESC: Howes special) (7/10)
(Working Vessel) Telectra
Telectra, Not built as plan, but easy build , Balsa and ply skins, and ply upper-works..
Good performance.. (Motor: 777) (ESC: Electronize) (8/10)
(Pleasure Craft) Bobby
Bobby, Model Boats Free Plan, all balsa construction, lively little thing, fun boat. (Motor: Multiplex 480) (ESC: Howes special) (8/10)
(Other) Sangsetia
Sangsetia 32 scaled down from original plan, constructed in balsa, bulkheads planks and as usual tissue covered.
(Motor: Kondor) (ESC: Electronize) (5/10)
(Other) Gay Class 32
Converted to an easy-Build as like the GG Model Boat Plans, all balsa hull and ply Plasticard upper-works. (Motor: 777) (ESC: Electronize) (8/10)
(Other) Miami 24
Miami 24 a scale-up version of the Miami 32 from Model boat Plans by GG. Keel and deck were increased to 1/2" balsa, but retained the 1/8th sides and base skins, average performance, but looked good in the black and yellow livery. (Motor: 777) (ESC: Electronize) (5/10)
(Other) Miami 32
Miami 32 from Model boat plans, by GG, again a great little craft, easy build and a lotta fun. (Motor: Multiplex 480) (ESC: Howes Special) (7/10)
(Naval Ship) ELCO 24
Elco 24 was a up-scale of the Elco 32, approx 1/24th scale, Twin 540 motors but the performance was poor. This was never investigated and the project was shelved. (Motor: 540) (ESC: Electronize) (4/10)
(Naval Ship) ELCO 32
Elco 32 Built from Model Boat Plan by GG, circa 1999 ish.. Very lively even with a 400 class motor direct drive. An excellent project for the newcomer, very easy build and a good stand-off scale appearance. Deck armament was from plastic kits, very close in scale for the finishing touch. (Motor: Graupner 480) (ESC: 25A Howes Special) (8/10)
(Pleasure Craft) Viva 50
A Half size Viva city, Balsa frames ply skins. Built to the style of Glyn Geest. as in his Elco and Miami.
(Motor: 777) (8/10)
My Susan, a Model Boats Plan No: MM925. of an Inshore trawler. Originally shown built in balsa, this one is built in 6mm ply for keel and bulkheads with Lime planking 6mm x 3mm. Upper works mainly 1.5mm ply and veneer. Deck fittings as in Winch and A frame built from Plasticard. The drive unit is a MFA Gear boxed unit approx. 2.5 : 1. Electroniz speed control unit and a standard Futaba servo for steering. Using 2.4 Ghz: Radio, Futaba. It looks the part of a Trawler but also useful as a rescue boat, has some Tug Boat tendencies, slow and manoeuvrable, easily transported and does not take up to much space. Either in workshop or floor well of a car. Regards Muddy
Having now being pleased with the fishing boats performance, time has come to try and make it look like a working boat, this is not a scale boat just a standoff scale, so as when one looks at it , one knows what type of vessel it is, hopefully. It will need some sort of winch and a net hoisting frame. Started with a hoisting frame and made up a jig for some sort of angles for realistic appearance. Some hatchways and a winch motor bed/frame.. Most of these items were made from Plasticard and Packets of round and rectangular section. It makes for a quick end resault if a Cyno type glue is used. Not sure about the Companion ways/Hatch ways.. Not forgetting the engine exhaust pipe ..lol.. The Bollards were made from 6mm hardwood/Spruce doweling .. Regards Muddy..
The last of the masking-up and hull painting.. The power plant or drive motor, was originally going to be a 385 size type of motor, one of the expensive ones from Howes, ( lol ) at ยฃ3-ยฃ5 each, i really like these little motors as they have such a voltage range 3-18 volts I Believe, thinking about the hull shape Bilge style and its bulk, i changed my mind and opted for a 380 size motor with a gearbox, hoping to keep the voltage down but have plenty of torque at the prop. Next was a float test, and not permitted in the bathroom after a "mishap" with a previous boat. Found an old hull, which i think was a Waterwitch, and would fit the bill perfectly in size for a float test, some funny looks from a pal who came to call, and noted that the water shud be on the outside, but this bulky hull was acting as a good water tank.. First sea trials with a 35mm 3 blade prop were a joke, in actual fact it performed like the real thing, about half throttle was applied and there was some turbulence at the transom and the boat just sat there for a second or two, then started to make way, very slowly, full throttle was applied and i just sat back and laughed, an immediate return to pond side harbour and a prop change, the biggest i had in the box, the difference was most appealing..
After most of the Build was finished, time for some paint. As this is a wood build, most items received about 6 coats of 50/50 cellulose dope and thinners, lightly sanding between each coat. The first job was to paint he insides of the Bulwarks and associated deck bits, decided to do this in Humbrol enamel, as it would be easier to touch up after other operations.. I found a Satin spray which is ideal for this job, it can always be glossed up, or dulled down with a matt version. Tend to use cling film on fiddly jobs like this as it has a type of adhesion, maybe just static, but once placed , stays put, if the surface is dust free. Next job was the hull painting. Lots of masking up, and trying to find some paint, came across some spray paint from Wilko, not a great choice in colours, but all the basic's were there and cheaper than any other at the time. The Wilko spay paint went well, a bit thicker than others but this is what i wanted for this boat's hull. Rubdowns and resprays were aplenty. The upperworks was painted by hand with Humbrol Enamel, some NOS, more old than new, it took some time to mix up.. lol.
After a HORRIBLE couple of years and not finding the time to indulge into the website or the workshop, I finaly managed to finish the Fishing Trawler My Susan, in finish I mean she hit the water for sea trials. There will be many I hope bits and bob's to make and fit, transforming her into a lookalike working boat, without going over the top.. If there are any double-ups of pics I apoligise. As I mentioned in the past most of these build pics were rescued from a crashed pc. So I,m trying to pick up the tail of build in pics from this blog, which does not look correct to me, must have suffered a major touch of finger blight and posted these/this build onto the Gwen Eagle blog, so this could get exciting trying to follow either of the blogs, again i apoligise for this "foo-parr".. Think this where i left off.. Dont forget the boat stand, an ideal time whilst in unpainted and " rough " state of the build.
OK Martin555, yes absolutely, even after one has taken the trouble to align the propshafts/couplings/motor, when the side skins/planks are fitted there is always a little discrepancy on the true alignment, so i just pop the small mirror down the side of the motor and all is revealed even from the keel up.. Mind i did borrow one once from the shipyard manager without her permission, and had to hide away for a while.. lol.. Keep smiling keep safe.. Muddy ..
Newby7, Thank you Rick, steady down, cos there are modifications to the windows.. My other secret trick is to view the the state of play in a mirror, looking from a different aspect can sometimes show up to many faults or ugly's.. so i don't participate with this method very often.. Stay well and Safe .. Muddy ..
Hello Pete, The plywood used, I,m not sure, but i think your correct, Birch Ply. Its the bog standard stuff that one purchases from a Model emporium, when new its an off shade of white in colour. Hope this helps.. Muddy..
After a long lay-off, mainly due to lack of materials, the stores were empty. Compromises were made and alternative materials used, maybe not a good idea, but trying to keep the production line of a sawdust factory has its demands. Continuing on with the cabin and superstructure, again materials choice or should i say alternative choice had to be employed, using 1.5mm and .8mm plywood, 1.5mm for the sides and the .8mm for the roof/cabin tops.. It was and still is a build as you go, not a good idea, but at the time a brilliant one, thinking about speed of build etc: hmmm ! .. Basic frame work applied as and when to support the roofs and the sides, in 1/4 x 1/8" and 3/8 x 1/4" Obechie strip.. Adding the rear and front "windscreens", with the oval shaped apertures, I don't like em' .. So they may be hacked about to make it look more presentable, it all depends on "how close to water" we get .. lol .. Stay safe .. Muddy..
OK Ian, Steam Yacht in this weather, you deserve a medal .. lol... Yes i think its all in hand, we are fortunate that water is 30 seconds away from car boot on a tarmac road, it gets better, but i dont want to rub it in .. lol.. But what some glorious weather, it will all disappear soon when the lockdown finishes, ok, ok i,m ducking..! Thanks for reminding me, Trollys in the pipelins so to speak..
Cabin/Upperworks, The outline of the cabin is to the drawing, but not in the construction, decided that the need for a lighter cabin would be advantagous to a person of my old age, silver surfer and all that. Did find a pic of the finished model with a stated weight of 45 lbs:, there's no dought about it, this model is built like a/the perverbial brick loo.. The sides were marked out by measurment, and placed for the first impressions, and dry fit. Next was to mark out the cabin formers to make up a basic inner framework, i,m very tempted to use Balsa wood, but will stay with ply and Obechi for a while, when the going gets tough, i change to Balsa ! ! Just to give some idea of the size of this creation, there is a pic of the Speranza and Lorraine 2 side by side, i did take the oppertunity of trimming the planks on Speranza whilst i was waiting for some glue to dry. Stay Safe.. Muddy ..
Lower deck planking, after all the pins were fitted, it was noticed that the planks had twisted urghh ! !.. They needed to be trimmed up, but with brass pins embeded the small plane dunna like this sort'a thing, Removed the pins and set about the planing up of the planks untill it was somewhere near respectable. At this stage it was time for another rub down with sandpaper and a new coat of dope/thinners applied. The "caulking" was removed with a 1" carpenters wood chiesel being run along , gently, the plank surface. This is when you hope enough glue was applied to hold the caulking in situ.. Stay Safe Muddy ..
Thanks Ian.. Think there was a pic of the shed temp at 10 degs C.. now that is ideal to potter about in lol.. but once the 20 c mark is reached, its time for a slurp and a siesta.. I,m looking forward to tackling the lowered deck planking tomorrow, ( Ohh yeah ) keep safe and smiling.. Muddy ..
The one thing that i forgot to mention is the fact that 5mm x 2mm Lime planks do not like to be pinned down with .7mm x 100 brass pins, the timber splits every time, usually with the bradawl, and it is a fine one. Answer, was simple to pin drill each pin hole, I wont dwell on this to long as i can feel the steam rising as i speak, it was a very laborous task. Then started to have a clean up of all surfaces hull sides , bottom skins and foredeck, ready for a thinned coat of dope. 25% thinners to 75% dope.. All surfaces were covered except the stepped deck, hoping to seal the timber whilst the model is being manipulated around on the bench. Also placed with a cyno type glue a small vertical veneer on the upright seperating the two decks, ready for a quick rub down and another coat of dope/thinners.. Stay Safe Muddy ..
Continueing on with the Fore Deck planking, nearly ready for sanding. Attempts to gain access to the bow and front end of the hull, were not adequate with just the Opening in the fore deck, and was proving difficult trying to access from the motor bay, not enough room between the mounting and the deck former. Started to remove the bulkhead by pin drilling acrosss the width of the beam, then with a small drum sander clean up the raged edges and finally some sandpaper when more accessible. Stay Safe Muddy ..
Didnt like the idea of a painted deck, so out came the planks, and some kind person did some shopping for me, so now armed with a fistfull of .7mm x 10mm Brass Pins, flat headed and some new planks 5mm x 3mm Lime, with some .25mm Mahogony for the caulking, anger management here we come. Keep Safe Muddy ..
Hello Ygagnon, Thank you for the kindly comment. When you can read things like this, it tends to spure one on. I must say all these comments and " how to do what to whome" timber wise, may not always be the correct way, but its the way that i did/do things with the reouces that i have, and personal choices in tools and adhesives etc: and things have had to slow down because of material shortages. Some progress is being made but slowly now. Thanks again, Stay Safe.. Muddy ..
Joe, I understand that the timber planking is Lime, i was also told it was good for hull planking as it is a very flexible wood ! as a scale plank. Muddy ..
Thank you Skydive130, but as i mentioned to joe a little earlier, things are getting spartan here, down to last bits of wood and pins, but hoping to rectify that soon, thanks again Muddy ..
With some .8mm ply for the foredeck, this was cut out roughly to shape, then placed and tacked, as to mark the Hatch from inside, the hatchway marked and cut out. Time to clean up the Bow, or Bumper Bar, Araldited and pinned a piece of Mahogony down the Stem, this was yesterday, so this morning it was all fixed and solid, ready for shaping, using a Stanley type Knife and a Small Carpenters Plane. Some P38 added along the way to hide the mistakes. On completion of the Bumper Bar, the for deck was ready for glueing and pinning, had to plan this out carefully as the pin situation was getting close to NON Existant, But with one pin left over, a spare if you like we wait for tomorrow and start up the Palm Sander.. Stay safe Muddy ..
Thank's Joe, but i,m a big beleiver in " a picture paints a thousand words .." or something like that.. But things are slowing up now, lack of materials, i,m running out of the "making bits".. Wood and Brass Pins, but hope to rectify this shortly, even down to my last pin this afternoon, things are getting serious... lol .. Keep smiling and keep safe Regards Muddy ..
p.s. i aint forgot to find out about what wood i,m going to use ! lol ..
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