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June 2018: 6 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 8 people January 2018: 25 people December 2017: 7 people November 2017: 10 people |
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Member Stats
90 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Droitwich Spa Model Boat Club
Since: 8th Oct 2016 Harbour
Tarpon
Type: Pleasure Craft 
Starlet
Type: Yacht 
Starbaby Yacht
Type: Yacht 
Fairmile RTTL
Type: Naval Ship +13 More
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Admiral
177 points away from Fleet Admiral!
Points
823 Total Points
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Good Conduct Medal
This member donated! United Kingdom
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Playing with different strips of caulking but reverted back to what i usually do, the quickest, in this instance Walnut planks 3mm x 5mm with .5mm Maple vertically mounted to imitate caulking..
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Fitted the deck combing and the side skins.
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Started on the bottom skins, these were removed and obechie planked instead. Checking the furniture, motors propshafts and props.
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Thank you.. more pics to follow..
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After a long lay-off, not requested or wanted. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth. She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then planked the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper.. The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up bulkheads but the keel and bulkheads are 5mm ply. Chines are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.
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Thanks for the comment, but lesson learnt, I hope... Regards Muddy...
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Thanks Dave, I,m amazed at the wealth of info that is available on this site, many thanks.. Regards Muddy..
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Hello, Try Arun 52..As far as i can recall there were only the 52 Footers.. I may be wrong ! Or as someone has mentioned The Enthusiasts Society of the RNLI, they very helpfull. The Main Man used be a chap named Mr .... Clutterbuck.. Good hunting Muddy.
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Thanks for the info and the K-K film.. Wonderful stuff.. Muddy....
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Started on the upper-works/cabin. Ring saw came into its own again. Followed up by the small mini drill, similar to a Dremil but with a bigger chuck which is handy, using Dremil 1/2" drum sander to clean up the window inner edges. Used 1.5mm ply for the cabin sides as they are going to be veneered, found a pice of veneer under the bench it nearly had roots, and i think, think, it's Teak. This was all glued up under weight using a PVA glue, probably the one in the pics, but an Alphatic. then when glue well and truly dry, Using a No10 scalpel blade to remove the innards of the window frames, and a quick swish with some fine grade sandpaper, not sure about any window frames as yet. ( to many windows for me ... ! ) Regards Muddy....
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Hello Doug, know what you mean about ring saw's, when i was apprentice we had a type of ringsaw that was retained on its former or mandrel by a couple of 6BA screws, it wern't the best idea but they did work but blade life was limited when cutting into Trunking and switchgear even with a cutting paste/oil. But Black and Decker appeared at about this erra with their ring saw and it was a much better idea, but being new they were expensive. Bought this set about 15 years ago from Machine Mart, think they are "eastern" copies and ok on/in wood. Like your setup of the wood bits but i only have a battery drill here not a bench or pillar drill, so dont know if they would be suitable. In my case it was more of how much, and instant availability. Thinking back and i still use this method sometimes is to simply wrap sandpaper, about a 180 grade around a piece of 1/4" dowel or larger to suit the required radius, and it is surprising how quickly the "clean-up/radi" appears ..lol..Cheers Muddy ....
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Phewwww... thats a relief, glad i aint on my own.. regards Muddy ....
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Thanks for the pics Dave M and the info, what a lovely job has been done on the deck planking, now thats a credit to its owner/builder. Do you happen to know what the drive assembly consists of..? Regards Muddy....
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Many Thanks Doug.. and ok about your saw, my hollowing out of bulkheads mainly concerns a ring saw as a typical electricial would have/use and the inverted jigsaw in the work-mate, the ring saw sets the internal radius, usually about 1" blade. Or a 3/8" drill into the bulkhead preferably close to the inner edge, and then using the jig saw, inverted.. I tend to use the metal work blades for the jigsaw, as they are a much thinner profile enabling tight radi to be tackled..Sea scout, now there a nice size boat , a blast from the past..Tnx for the info..Regards Muddy....
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Many thanks, but hats off to you Sir.. I could never cope with warship scales, to fine a quality of skill required.. 1/32 nd.. is about my limit.. Now i am envious of a band saw, had one about 45 years ago, sold it, regretted it ever since..
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Hello, The keel was cut on the 13th of May 2017. Power tools are the secret, i would not like to be without the Proxxon table saw, and or the B&D jigsaw plus a Battery drill, makes life a lot easier. The longest job so far has been the Deck planking, it's more like anger management..lol... Hope this helps, regards Muddy....
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Hello, Fitted the combing, the deck , and started the Fore Planking, this time with Mahogany planks (5mm x 1.5mm ) and white wood caulking (0.5mm) mounted vertically. Adding some colour to the motor mounts, and drive chain, makes it easier when final assembly takes place as in electrical wiring. Regards Muddy....
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Running gear or furniture.. Once the skeleton or frame was completed it's a good idea to dry fit all the running gear, Drive motors shaft's and prop's, plus the radio gear and battery boxes/trays, and even sound unit locations. Then start the skinning. This hull has very curvy bottom skins, in that they turn from the transom to the bow 90 degrees sharply. Tried some test pieces of vertical grain ply, ( 1.5mm ) but it was the same as horizontal grain.. Skins were placed in as large as pieces as possible at about 45 degrees to the keel, or planking in ply.. Not a pretty sight, but makes life a lot easier. The skins were dry fitted with brass pins first, mainly to assist in the cutting of the skin shape. When the bottom skins were completed and rough trimmed the side skins were applied and these were vertically grained, again makes life a lot easier and they fall onto the stringers, means less brass pins and elastic bands. Not forgetting to drill some 1" holes in the breast-hook and No; 1 former, as i always pour in a little Fibre glass resin to help seal the bow section and add some strength. Regards Muddy....
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Just a note about the Bulkheads, There are 1/4" x 1/4" Stringers and 3/8" x 1/8". After the bulkheads were all marked out, remembering the old rule measure twice and cut once. Picked up a piece of 3/8" x 1/8" Obechie and placed it onto the bulkhead checking the marking out, whoops something was wrong the marked location was to small, wishing to return the next day and start cutting at first light, they were remarked, but when i did four from the Transom, for some unknown reason i decided to measure again.. The air was blue..... I had by accident picked up a piece of scrap of 1/2" x 3/16".. A long pause and "to ponder" what to do next. Scrap the bulkheads and start again or make do and mend, 5mm marine ply aint cheap, in other words apply some modelers license.. Modeler's license won, as it usually does. So the stringers were "Shimmed", maybe not pretty, but it worked and hopefully does not make the structure weak..And now its been skinned, who knows about it..!
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Hello, after rummaging around the plans bag, and finding the Speranza, which i did start and hope to continue as the infill to this build, sorry Alan... But don't blame me, someone did a post on an old Gentleman's cruiser, and i was hooked, the power of the press hey !.. Away we went, cutting keels, bulkheads, dry fits , fitting stringers, then realizing this is going to be bigger than I though.. Regards Muddy ....
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Colin, the "pm" had me puzzled for a while, but now i have found the reason why, so apologies to all, this was not meant to happen, am still trying to find my way around the site... Please post it if you like, with apologies to all.. Regards Muddy....
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.." Crew fell overboard... " No I was stood on the bank..! lol..
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And finally Sail Day... She had float tests after the paint jobs, at another members property, with the gracious help of his young lady, It's her fish pond.. ! Thanks Alan the EDD. And a typical launch, away she went in a breezy day with a back to front rudder, It did not bother me as it's not the first time..lol.. And when she was returned to the cradle guess who had brought along the wrong handbook for the Tx.. This is a typical Muddy sail.. But a bit of "Savy" and all was well and corrections made. She did sail well and i was not disappointed.. Regards Muddy ....
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Continuing on - Grease up the prop shaft. Finalise the rigging. Another Radio check, with auxiliary motor, then disaster, Lost the hatch top, searched for 1 and 1/2 hours, no where to be found, Out came the saw and we has another cutting session and added some veneer, all was well.
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Thats very nice of you Alan, Thank you. ( But Please remember the camera does not always tell it how it is ..) Steady down, i wunna be able to get in the garage.. lol.. Regards Muddy ....
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Installing the Radio gear. Planking the Deck in 6mm x 2mm and .5mm Mahogany vertically used as "Caulking". A lot of brass pins.. !... Lead Keel, about 10lb; in weight. It was supposed to be "Let into" the keel, but a lot of extra work, decided to screw it to the bottom, hoping this would give it more stability having a deeper keel. Regards Muddy ....
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Thanks Doug, I never noticed the wavy line.. There's a good saga to the paint job, but not a nice one, and ton's of rubbing down. It was getting close a Bass Broom and bucket job..lol..😤 Well spoted that man.. And thanks for the praise concerning the woodwork. It's all new to me, I,m on a big learning curve here. Regards Muddy ....
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Hello.. Finish the hull belting and flare in the prop shaft. Paint applied. Work on the mast and booms from Pine dowel from DIY shops. Fabricating the rudder, the hinges and bearings were an old Prop shaft and bushes. Decided to scrap the internal servo operating with control line wire to the rudder , mounted the servo as direct as possible, comments received about the rudder is that the original or scale rudder is far to small, so this one was made about 5 times larger, it can always be cut down, but didnt fancy all that work again making a replacement rudder. Rigging the sails is not my Forte', first time so a lot of playing about. Regards Muddy....
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Hello, completion of the deck in ply, urghhh.. Start on the well deck furniture, not forgetting the important boat stand. The HUll banding, in 3mm ply vertical grained then when fixed, veneer applied plus a couple of stringers as rubbing strips.
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Hello Colin.. There was a very good description of motor suppression in the MMI plans handbook a couple of years ago.. Using Disc Capacitors, values were stated at 47 nf across the motor terminals, and 100 nf across each motor connection to the motor can, keeping the Capacitor tails ( wire ) as short as possible at the motor terminal end. As for voltage rating, a general rule of thumb is to double the operating voltage at least, in this instance i would use 50 volt rated capacitors.. Regards Muddy....
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