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I ceased work on the kit for a few days for my hands to recover and am now using blue nitrile gloves. I am using Revell Contacta Professional glue. Since resuming work, I have had no problems - so far, so good! I can't see that fumes come into the equation unless the styrene is being heated. Nerys
I started this post hoping to get advice on allergic reaction to modelling with styrene but it seems to have turned into soldering problems. I'd really like to know if anybody else has had any trouble with styrene and how they coped with it. Fair winds, Nerys
I started building a dutch coaster recently from a kit which is all plastic and styrene. I have no experience of using these materials. Progressing reasonably well but am finding that my fingers are becoming very sore, splitting and losing top layer of skin. Lips are swelling too. I can only guess this is a reaction to the styrene and would like to know if anybody else has this problem and how they get round it apart from stopping the build. Any help will be gratefully received. Regards, Nerys
There seems to be some misconceptions about Dutch Barges. Most of what we now refer to as Dutch barges were originally developed as fishing boats suited to the area in which they were working. There were many different types and far from just being used on the canals fished all waters of the Netherlands and were quite capable of taking on the sharp nasty seas of places like Hollandsche Diep and the Ooste Schelde. I can assure you, even the Ijselmeer can get choppy under the right conditions. In fact Dutch Schuyts brought cargoes of eels to London from about the 1600s and a berth was still kept for them until the early 20th century, They were typical of what we would now call a Dutch barge. There were quite small ones like the Schouw and the Grundel that were inshore and lake fishers, then they varied in size through the Botters, Hoogars and Lemeraaks to the Tjalk and the Klipper which were cargo carriers. The Klippers were roughly the same size as Thames Barges and sometimes bigger and were rigged as Gaff Ketches, similar to our West Country Ketches. They were mainly fairly heavily built well in keeping with traditional wooden working boats. In latter days, steel replaced wood but they still followed the traditional designs. Luckily, so many Dutch Barges are still being built as yachts, decorated and fitted out very traditionally and there is considerable interest in the many events held for them every year.
[Score: 9/10] 34" Sea Commander Single Propellor (2 Blade S Type) Direct Drive to a Caldercraft 750 (2 Blade S Type) Powered by NiMH (12v) 3Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through Chinese generic (15Amps) ESC - Comments: Built from an Aerokits kit. Very pleased with performance, comes up onto the plane quite easily
Thanks for that Doug, There are several hulls for Thames Barges available, but to me, a novice, the complexity of fittings required is rather daunting and the Speedline kit does contain everything. The disadvantage is the smaller size whereas the Fleetscale hull is more in keeping with the size most common amongst model barge builders. Cheers, Nerys.
I have been considering building 'Annie', but the company that I have seen advertising this Thames Barge Kit is called Speedline Models. Presumably we are talking about the same model. Best regards, Nerys.
Hi Doug, I see what you mean, but, I'm a newcomer to model building and from what I've seen, a lot of models are the same with no visible means of steering and certainly no helmsman. I suppose I could mount an imitation tiller with a figure of some sort giving the impression of steering but at this stage I'm more interested in getting her to perform well. The extraneous bits can come later. Regards, Nerys
Evening Doug, This was her first time in the water and there was a lot more wind than I would have liked. No, she hadn't shipped any water, I think it must be the angle from which the photo was taken. The rudder post is about two inches inboard of the transom. The rudder has a drop blade like many sailing dinghies and after this first sail, I think I shall increase it's area. However, I think the weather conditions did not give me a chance to properly assess performance. This is the first model sharpie I have built, but in my dim and distant past built several full size ones, the last being 43ft. so I know a bit about their characteristics, just hope it transposes to the model variety! Best wishes, Nerys
[Score: 5/10] 30" Sharpie - Comments: Scratch built model of a typical East Coast of America sharpie. Used as a general work/ fishing boat. Fitted with topsails a few weeks after original launching. Appears to have greatly improved performance, but there was rather too much wind for a fair assessment and my partner had no desire to go wading in the lake.
Having had an interest and connections with Thames Sailing Barges going back to the days when they still carried cargo under sail, I am contemplating building a model. I am a relative newcomer to modelling, so am considering the Speedline kit. What I really want to know is how this model sails. I'm not expecting speed, I just want to know if the performance is acceptable and she handles reasonably well. Hope someone can advise me. Nerys
[Score: 8/10] 20"/1700g Gwylan Capable of 3mph and a runtime of 40mins Single Propellor (3 Blade 15mm) Direct Drive Powered by NiMH (6v) 2Amp/h Batteries - Comments: This was my first attempt at building a model boat, decided that model boat building would be a suitable hobby for a lady of 85, no longer fit enough to sail real boats.