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Hello Mark. I was just not aware of the choices and followed the 'usual routine'.......... When space is such a consideration, I expected to see more of this type of approach. Enjoying the journey anyway. Thanks for your help. Cheers. NPJ
Thank you for your reply. Yes Tom, these are just as you described. What I saw and did not realise were available are the same structure but smaller and I thought that would help. However, there may be a good reason why they are not used here. So I thought this is the place to ask! All the best. NPJ
Somewhere RN Doug referred to fuse ratings and I bought more. having found they are hard to change Mark told me about the tool that is used. In the buying of these things and looking for more space on board, I noticed 'mini blade fuses' are available. Why are we not using these.......................? NPJ
RN and others .............I have changed the fuse to 20 yellow for the battery and found it difficult! Are all the spade fuse holders as tight as mine? It took considerable force to remove the fuse from the holder and I wonder whether that is normal. I understand that looseness is not good but the force needed seems excessive and a threat to the circuit board etc. NPJ
Yes I am sure you are quite right. I can see I have much to learn and it is interesting. So many different aspects to address.......so few brain cells functioning. Hope to do more on the wiring Saturday. Cheers all. NPJ
So following a long away week-end of Astronomy, now trying to get a bit further before going away for a couple of days. As I start to wire up the power circuit I realise how important it is to think things through first! Made up the link from the Battery to a ‘choc block’ distribution point which for space reasons is under the ‘control’ platform which will fill the bow area. (Pic 1) The fuse boards were obtained from Component – shop.co.uk Ltd in Bangor which is a good source of all sorts of electrical bits for us and is in Wales! (Pic2) The Dual Esc/Mixer, from the same place, a P94 9Lite), I have secured with Velcro (Pic 3) and I hope to keep the battery on top of this with a little air gap. It is at this point that I really came to appreciate the space limitations (Pic 4) and I do not have the motors wired in yet which will have fuse boards on the ‘platform’. (Pic 5). Next time hope to wire in Motors and Fuse Boards, Sound Generator and Receiver. Then see how it sits in the bath.....! NPJ
Only a short one, as I have realised that dealing with Battery Mounting means I need to deal with changing the Rudder Servo first! (Pic 1) So to remove the servo was easy as was replacing with the better unit. It is by the way much easier to remove the Servo Bracket and then the Servo than leaving it in. Same naturally applies when fitting (Pic 2/3) I had to remember to have the lead coming out on the correct side though! (Pic 4) I had been thinking about whether I should be using proper metal linkages to the rudder mechanism and issues about ‘slop’, but now it looks like there will not be a choice, but let us leave that until later as this is going to be a short session. (Pic 5) In fitting the battery I was conscious that it has to pass in and out of that rear hatch, stay on the centre line and avoid fouling the Rudder Servo...................... So I cut a base plate of Balsa to stick in the bottom of the Hull so making it reasonably flat for the Battery and a Balsa Plank to stop the Battery accidentally moving towards the gear boxes. Before gluing them in place I attached Velcro/ hook and eye patches to hold the Battery in place. (Pic 6 ) There appears to be at least two thicknesses of this stuff, very rigid and strong and the other softer, more flexible and slightly less ‘grab power’ (Pic 7 ). I opted for the lighter stuff as it could be a struggle getting in and out of the Hatch! (Pic 8) I may need to put a loop of something around the battery to assist in removal, but that is for later. I just glued the Balsa in with ‘Gorilla’ glue and laid the battery in to add weight whilst drying (Pic 9/10/11) Next time I hope to concentrate on getting the forward platform loaded and the power linked up. NPJ
You are great Doug..................Keeping me 'rooted' and stopping me getting carried away! I am having a pause this afternoon, but will work on 'non contentious' bits a little later. Mark, Jarvo and you keep me enjoying this when I know I should be doing something else! NPJ
RN - Thanks for the confidence boost it does help! I have picked up the gizmo that provides 5 volts off the mixer. It is very small and will tuck away. Re rudders, I have been reading that larger ones can help steering when in reverse, also that small rudders the other side of the props are good........ All up for consideration at the moment. Image here from 'Andy' on RC.com, but other shapes are around. All the best. NPJ
Thank you. Re main battery. The brackets holding gear box and motors are just more than width of battery so I have a plank across there with balsa and velcro as one of the two points to stablise the battery. Also needed to keep it away from servo. All the best. NPJ.
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ
Fortunately too late for the little beasties, but the Astronomy stuff I took with me stayed in the car! The Galloway Forest was very clouded and misty. I failed to put the sources in for the bits I am using. Will do that on next post. All the best NPJ
Figtree and RN. I can see us all sat down rubbing the tyres on a box of Swan Vesta with a glass of wine to hand, but life is too short for that. Thanks for the tying tip I will refer to it in the Build Blog. I am going to look hard at the mixer/esc tomorrow as I am not confident that I have understood what has been said. TFN. NPJ
Well, back now from a wet Scottish break and with lots of little parcels to open..... Just before I left I tried to load a video and failed. My 'tutors' are going to help me with that but for now, the photos will do the job. The first image shows my temporary power setup and the layout of the components (1). Exciters sourced from ............. and the sound unit is a ............. Note the way they are wired up. I hope, when fitted properly, the cabling will run across the bottom of the Hull. The positioning was very much dictated by the space available between one set of 'ribs' (2). This seems to be just perfect. Note the position of the solder tags(3). There is little space left at the top when fitting the Deck, so keep as high as possible bearing that in mind. So I put the exciters in place, and attached my power supply (4). I could not wait to put the Deck back on before I tried, but at least I had sound of Motors and Horn and adjusted the volume control to 75% (5) Volume control being the white block with the cross head. So after I had my fun, I tidied it all up and put the deck on. Not screwed down but just to check sound levels. Did not work first time because of the lose wires, but second time was good and a great depth of sound. So that has confirmed the sound system fits and can work in that position. However, that is without motors running and that may make a difference. Next time I hope to be doing the trials of the mixer/escapes and motors, then I will see how the sound presents with motors running. All the best. NPJ
Thank you Figtree. This model was already 2.4GHz and the images show what is there. No markings on motors that I can see to indicate polarity. Your 'upgrade' looks good. Given what you did, did you bother with 'earthing'? On the build site can you indicate how you attached the tyres as mine are very 'flimsy'. Your help is appreciated. NPJ
I am going for lunch now as well. Another cold chicken salad! The red lead connects one motor to the other. The white and yellow wires are those that went to the original control board. I though in these circs white was the positive....???? Munch munch. NPJ
Thanks for that stuff on the PM. I am assuming the white wire from the motor is positive........... As you can see I an working in a very tidy fashion.............. Need to first finish the temporary sound set up on the build blog and then move to the battery/motor wiring on there. All the best. NPJ