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>> Home > Members > octman
Registered
10th Apr 2016
Last Online
28th Jun 2017
octman

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 3722
Registered 10th Apr 2016
Last Online 28th Jun 2017
City Worcester
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 0
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 59
Photos Posted 0
Likes Received 13
Likes Given 70
60 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
Worcester Model Boat Club
Since: 16th Mar 2017
Harbour
Empty Harbour
Lieutenant
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
80 points away from Commander!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 0
Forum Thread 5 95
Forum Post 2 118
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 0
Photos Response 3 0
Video Post 15 0
Video Response 3 0
Build Blog 20 0
Blog Post 5 0
Blog Response 3 3
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 70
Received Likes 2 26
320 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
what fittings for a plane prop by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Thanks Dave. Certainly got a weed problem, so will give them a call. Chris

what fittings for a plane prop by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 8 days ago
Ref Dave M's airboat pics, did they come with the hull and the deck, or did you make the deck yourself? Mobile Marine only seem to sell the hull, and the two boats in your photos appear to have the same decks. Chris

Steaming ply- good idea or not? by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 22 days ago
Thanks for all the replies. I had forgotten all about the rolling and scoring techniques-well over 35 years since my last model boat build. I have now rolled a couple of small parts and successfully fitted them, so thanks. Haven't worked on the transom yet but the curve is not very great so I think I will giving the scoring method a go. Chris

Steaming ply- good idea or not? by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
The boat I am constructing at the moment, Aeronaut Jenny, requires a few ply parts to be installed that need to be curved. These are not the hull sheeting etc as that is thin enough to curve without problems, but the transom and a few other small parts also need to be curved slightly to fit. I could glue these parts in place using clamps etc to force them into the correct shape, or steam them. But the question is- will the steaming de-laminate the ply. The other parts on the boat that I have steamed, the stringers, are not ply so there was no problem there. Chris

ECS rating- confused by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
Thanks for that Doug. As you say, I nearly answered my own question, but measure twice, cut once as they say. Chris

ECS rating- confused by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 23 days ago
I have read so much lately regarding the appropriate size of ESC for brushed motors that I am totally confused (not really totally , but nearly!). For a Graupner Speed 600 the info given with the motor is max efficiency current = 11 amps, stalled current = 70 amps, no load current = 1.8 amps. Do I need an esc rated at 70 amps or more, or a 15 or 20 amp Mtronic Viper unit be OK? Should the fuse be 15 amps, or something well above that but under 70 amps? Questions, questions! (should have stuck to sail!) Chris

Plans for a V8 engine by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks Haverlock, I had seen this but obviously forgotten it. For £20 without the exhausts I might go for it! Chris

Plans for a V8 engine by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
Yes thanks, I have seen that on ebay. It might be what I want but I think I might have to add a certain amount of engine block, not sure yet as the hull is not yet constructed. The full engine models I found on the web are nearly all around 150 dollars or more! Not what I want to pay as it is more than the boat. Chris

Plans for a V8 engine by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 1 month ago
I have a fancy to add the top part of a V8 to my current build, a Jenny from Aeronaut. Only the top will be visible(I think!). Having seen the cost of 1/10th scale V8's on the web I need to build my own. Can anyone supply or advise of a source of, a simple, not too detailed, plan of a V8 with dimensions? It doesn't need to be accurate down to the last nut and bolt. Chris

Waterproof glue by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Robbob, Thanks for the reply. If these are good enough for your build then they are certainly good enough for mine! Chris

Bluebird K7 by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I'm confused(normal state for me). It is the Donald Campbell K7 you are building isn't it, but you have plans for John Cobb's Crusader on the wall. Are you going to build both? Chris

Waterproof glue by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 2 months ago
I realise that this is probably (almost certainly!) going over old ground for the nth time, but my last wooden model was in the days of Cascamite, and things appear to have moved on a tad since then so I need advise on which glue to use on my newly acquired Aeronaut Jenny. It says in the manual to use 'quick setting , waterproof, white glue' which sounds like a PVA glue to me but I could very easily be wrong. I would therefore be grateful for any advise going re types of glue, and their trade names, if possible. Thanks Chris

stripping hull for repair and repaint by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Dave, I have managed to get a picture of the 'plans' off Google but they are not too wonderful are they! I am thinking that a cut and paste replacement of the rotten parts will be required, but as I would not even class myself as a carpenter let alone a model maker I can see exciting times ahead! The black bits on my boat are really black, and spongy. I will pm you as I think I am going to need all the help I can get. Chris

stripping hull for repair and repaint by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Dave, I applied my Black and Decker mouse detail sander to the hull, using only the weight of the sander. Turns out it has been epoxy coated, I have removed sufficient paint to see what is underneath it and there are 2 small areas where the wood is black and nasty. One consists of a few spots about half way between the bow and the stern, and mid way between the keel and the joint with the side skin, and the other is a line about 3 inches long and quarter inch wide running alongside the keel. The keel also seems to be poor on that side as well. What I really would like is a copy of the plans, so that I can see what I am dealing with. Nothing on E Bay! At the moment anyway. Chris

stripping hull for repair and repaint by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I have acquired an old 34" RAF Crash Tender with a wooden (ply?) hull, which has 2 smallish leaks. I want to fix these and give it a repaint. To strip the old paint off do I have to use elbow grease alone or can I start with some sort of mild paint stripper? I intent using Eze - Kote eventually. Chris

Ripmax p-xtra sea sprint ESC by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Dave, Well it all works! one can do so much with a bit of guidance! Thanks. Chris

Ripmax p-xtra sea sprint ESC by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Thanks Dave, I will give it a go later today. Chris

Ripmax p-xtra sea sprint ESC by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
Hi Dave, I think I may possibly have a different ESC. Mine has been running on 11.1 3cs lipo not sure about the BEC though. It is this one: http://resources.hobbystores.co.uk/product_images/large/P/P-... What is 'soft start'? Does it need setting up? Chris

Ripmax p-xtra sea sprint ESC by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 3 months ago
I have just acquired an old model which has a blue Ripmax ESC (as above). It has a small unit coming from it via 3 wires, with a red LED, an on/off switch and a press button marked s/c. It is water cooled. I have connected it up to a battery to see if any thing worked. I used a known working tx/rx. Nothing worked except the LED in the small unit flashes. Anyone got a manual or instructions for setting up the ESC? I may well get a new ESC but would like to check that the existing ESC is a worker or not. Chris

De-creasing sail by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
I have some sails made from 50 micron film and have managed to put a small crease in the jib. Anyone know of a way to remove this crease, or will I have to live with it? Chris😱

flesh coloured paint by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
Thanks for the suggestions. I had not even thought of stubble! Your crewmen must be REALLY ruffy tuffy Dave. Chris

flesh coloured paint by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 5 months ago
I have some Humbrol 'flesh' enamel paint but it is baby pink rather than the ruffy tuffy tug boat deck hand that I want. Any suggestions as to what colour(s) I need to add to theHumbrol paint to get the colour I am looking for? Chris

Bring and Buy Sale by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Thanks Chris

Bring and Buy Sale by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
What date? Chris

Perkasa stabiliser by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Thanks, Chris

Perkasa stabiliser by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 6 months ago
Any chance of a link to the You tube site as "simon" brings up over 18000000 results!

Engine Sound Effects by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Next time they have a ground running event at Bruntingthorpe or Wellesbourne take your recorder and make your own. Should get a reasonable approximation I would have thought. Should be able to achieve something from Lightning, Victor,Buccaneer and Vulcan.( I think these are at these locations, certainly the Vulcan is at Wellesbourne) Chris

fitting LED to existing on/off switch wiring by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
Thanks again Dave, worked a treat. Chris

fitting LED to existing on/off switch wiring by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
thanks Dave, will give it a go. Chris

fitting LED to existing on/off switch wiring by octman Lieutenant   Posted: 7 months ago
My model has an existing on/off switch wired into the hull going from the battery via the switch to the receiver, as normal. I want to fit an LED into this wiring to show it is switch on, and have seen pictures of one fitted to the rear of the switch, but unfortunately the actual connections have been covered over by insulation. All that I can deduce is the the LED connection are made at the rear of the switch, or thereabouts. The connections to the battery and receiver and all the cables to the switch are untouched. All there is are the 2 connectors on a few inches of cable from connectors, to the switch and a fly lead coming from the switch to the LED. Obviously the supply to the LED is no problem, connected to the output from the switch,a simple SPST on/off type, but where would the earth be attached? Can it simply be tapped into the black connector going to the receiver, which I believe is the negative? All very simple I know but I want to do it right, and I hate making too much smoke as it melts!