All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
February 2019: 7 people January 2019: 16 people December 2018: 6 people November 2018: 11 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 10 people
Good morning folks, I have a Dremel Workstation, or drill stand as I call it, and would like to get a small machine vice (is that the correct name?) to go with it. I have seen a few smallish ones but they are usually too big to bolt to the base. Can anyone out there offer any workable suggestions please? Also, is the material the vice is made from of make any relevance at this small size, i.e. is cast aluminium any good? ( I had a screw-on table top vice made of cast aluminium which snapped in half the first time I used it.) I feel the need for this vice as I am about to drill a 1mm hole in a model yacht's mast to locate the boom vang and with my shaky hands it could end up being big enough to pass the boom through without some sort of support!! Chris
A friend of mine (Cormorant on here) builds reasonably big models and he normally uses rattle cans from Halfords with good results. Have look at his posts as he has gone into paints here himself. Chris
If you are talking about a closed loop system have a look at this YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cco5IQ0bZtU I have it on my yacht and it works very well, with no tangles any more. If you are not discussing a closed loop system, apologies for butting in. Chris
Yes I was that person with the transducer( amongst others). I originally had a speaker inside the lower superstructure of the tug, where there are window openings, but without any glazing, so in theory the sound should have been able to escape. The engine sounds were OK but the other sounds, on a different sound module, were only audible if the model was more or less within arms length, which I thought unsatisfactory! Aha I thought, use a transducer attached under the deck, other people seem to get satisfactory results. I didn't. I think that there is too much clutter on the deck of the Southampton,which is not that big, preventing the hull from doing what it is supposed to do. Next idea is to conceal a normal speaker on the deck disguised as a pile of pallets, with lots of lovely gaps to let the sound out. Chris
Innocent until proven guilty! Size isn't everything, but in this case perhaps it was! I wasn't really paying attention, I was just absorbed looking around. I thought you were still on plan A until I saw you walking out with plan C. Chris
Hello again, sorry not been able to reply to the last few posts. I did the upgrade before I had ever done the binding. As I said, the display screen that shows bars moving in relation to the stick and switch movement shows all 10 channels, as opposed to it's original display of only 6, but using the switches, which I have allocated to the new channels, causes no reaction whatsoever. I bound the receiver(10 channel) and a servo plugged into each channel in turn only reacted to channels 1 to 6. I have followed the various YouTube videos, (some are better than others), and cannot see that I have done anything wrong, but I will have another go in a day or two. Fingers crossed, or stick with 6 channels. Chris
Thanks folks. I have assigned the various switches to their own channels, which is where the problems start, as, although allocated, the new channels are all "dead". Everything in the upgrade seems to have worked, except the lack of action when the switches are thrown. I still only have the original 6 channels. The display screen, which shows bars moving left or right from a central point, has changed from 6 to 10, and as I mentioned above, the switches can all be assigned to channels, but on the display screen nothing happens when the switches are operated, and a servo connected to the receiver on any one of the new channels remains inactive.
Youtube has several posts about upgrading the Turnigy i6 firmware(or the Flysky i6) from 6 to 10 channels. All very easy and I have done it, but it has gone wrong somewhere. Everything has changed that should change except for one small part of the upgrade- the 4 extra channels do not work! The screen information shows they exist and the firmware shows that it has been updated. Has anyone on this forum done this upgrade? If so, any ideas where I have gone wrong. I have reverted to the factory settings twice and still can't get it sorted, and it seems such a simple thing to do. Frustrated. Chris
I would have thought that, every thing else being the same, 2 rudders will probably, maybe, give twice the turning effort, possibly. Does the position of the rudder(s) in relation to the thrust of the prop affect the effectiveness of the rudder though? A single rudder immediately behind the centre line of the prop will have the max air flow at the top and bottom of the rudder blade, so presumably behaves differently to twin rudders on either side of the centre line where the max thrust would be in the central part of the blade. (I think!) The other option is of course suck it and see, and change it if needed. Hard to believe I know, but I am not an aerodynamicist! Chris
Thanks for the input. Sorry to have started a bit off a heated discussion. My charger was behaving somewhat differently to what I expected, having already watched many You Tube videos, But at the end of the day all is well now, mainly due the fact that my original power supply was a bit too wimpy and has been replaced by one with the required output. My batteries have now been storage charged and ready for action and a full charge at a future date. All I need now is a boat to put them in. Chris
I am new to this lipo stuff and have a query about the storage charge. I have a SkyRC Imax B6 charger (a genuine one) and 2 x 2S 2200mAh batteries. On the display screen of the charger, before charging has been started, in the storage mode, it says 7.4V. When I press enter it charges the battery up to 7.6 volts. Is this correct? Electricary confuses me enough without this sort of thing! Chris
Hi all, I read somewhere recently that the connectors on a brushless motor should not be changed(presumably by cutting off the existing ones and therefore shortening the cables), or was it refering to the cables from the ESC? Anyone got any comments on whether this is correct, or otherwise. I wish I could remember where I saw it. I have only just ventured into the world of brushless and don't want to fall at the first hurdle, which in my case is a motor and ESC with different sized connectors. Chris
I bought the tin of Coleman's fuel for my camping stove(Coleman did camping stoves once, not sure if they still do). Has been on my shelf for quite a few years now so no wonder the UN number is out of date. Onetenor, was there supposed to be a link in your last post? Chris
Hi Neil,not sure what you mean about reversing. The steering in reverse is ok but nothing to write about, and with tank steering it seems to be much better on the port motor than the starboard one. Possible to do with water turbulence, but not really looked at it long enough to figure it out. My transducer or resonator also came from sound imports, and I had the same delivery experience as Dave. Chris
I have several motors that all look very nearly the same. One I know is a Graupner Speed 600 which is 8.4v but of the other 2, one is said to be 12v(was working with an 11.1 lipo) and the other one is unknown. It has a built in cooling impeller so probably came from an electric tool of some sort. Neither of these 2 have any markings or labels. Is there any way that I can test them for their normal working voltages without endangering them? Chris
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. It worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. It was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris