Interesting project. Looking forward to progress reports!

Looks like not too long before a launching.

Very good looking builds!

Very nice!

I was initially going to post a reply, but didn’t, because the subject had gone into steam engines. This is a subject where I have little knowledge, except for building a Midwest single cylinder engine for a yet to be built steam launch.

But every time I log in, the comment template for this thread keeps coming up.

Just to say that I agree regarding the ‘big box stores.’ Lowes, here in the states will do a match and sell a small sample for a very reasonable price.

Looks like the top of the keel is awfully close to the boom.

This is my reply from the shipyard that built the last two Star Ferries:

Attn : Mr. Peter J. Glor

RE : Star Ferry Lines Plan

Acknowledged your email and noted your strong interest in "Star Ferry"; particular the two new ferries built by our company; Wang Tak; in 1988 and 1989. Now these two ladies are over 26 years young; versus the other Star Ferries of 1950 vintage.

Sorry to say; with economical pressure; the Golden Star had been sold and converted into a "house boat" moored at Tai Tam; and the World Star had been laid up since 2012.

Regarding the lines plan; this document is "confidential" and owned by the "Star Ferry Company"; with the newbuilding contract; Wang Tak as builder had committed to protect all design documents and not to release to third party. The only means would be to obtain the lines plan directly from the "Star Ferry Company". Sorry that we cannot help on this matter.

Regards,
Feat Szeto

This is Miki Kwok’s reply to my inquiry about his model. I have included the drawing he sent with the photos attached to my previous reply.

Dear Mr, Pete. J. Glor

Thank you for your e-mail regarding our project Hong Kong Star Ferry, in fact we are down load the official drawing from Wang Tak Engineering & Shipbuilding co, ltd of star ferry with A4 size. This Star Ferry is scratch build.

1. We start working out to 1/48 scale, this is base on the passenger on board the ferry, we like the model with more real.

2. We use the foam to cut to ship sharp and sand down according to the plan, mean time take out some foam for motor and battery ballast weight, upon complete, we have to add 5 lbs of lead to keep the ship at water line.

3. Upper and lower deck construct with Styrene sheet, also the passenger branch made by Styrene stick, we use a piece of
wood to made a jack for standard size of each difference area as per the ship's plan.

4. Life bouy all round the ferry and the navigation lights we use the Billing boat parts.

5. Interior lighting we use the model train station light for upper and lower deck.

6. Propulsion we use brushless motor and ESC one set in each end, since we do not need reverse,

7. Original ferry require 4 blade propeller, but we only can found 3 blade with this size, therefore we use 3 blade instead

8. Both end with rudder, one servo each end, and both rudder we made with brass sheet to cut as per plan.

I hope the above may answer your questions, in the next few days, I try to take some picture and forward to you, which may help to understand what we did.

Furthermore the ARK model Hong Kong Yamati ferry model I have one on hand, which require a lot of work to finish, in fact what you buy from ARK only a ferry hull and the mod of upper structure fiberglass piece, and a plan with propeller and shaft.

In case you need more information, please feel free e-mail me, I am delightful to send you information with my capacity.

Best regards
Mickey Kwok

Over the years since I first rode the Star Ferries in 1965, I have wanted to build a model of one. There is no actual construction plan that I have ever found. However, I have found a number of drawings, and pictures, which I will attach.

I also corresponded with a modeler, who ran a Star Ferry model at a Northwest model ship meet a number of years ago. He built his hull from foam with open passages for his radio and batteries, and one motor for each prop. I also have some interior photos.

You mentioned that the photo in your early post was ‘Tim’s’ build. Is that Tim Brown? He and I were in constant communication about Chris Crafts until my legs quit on me, and while I was in the hospital, my phone got cleaned out of email addresses.

Looks great!

Looks lovely, and I saw that it runs well too.

Sounds good to me!

You might try measuring the width of the right frames on the drawing and compare them to the measured width on the left side. Sometimes there is some distortion of the plan during reproduction. That’s why I have learned just to use one side folded in half (unless it is a kit). That way it will be symmetrical.

But given how far you are now, I think it looks great, and I would not know from looking at the photos.

Framing looks great! I know how those delays go. I have several projects that have been ‘interrupted’ by life!

Glad to see you are back on yours!

She’s lovely. Is there a story behind picking that particular ship to model?

I had a problem like that while in the Navy. The worst one was that when I unpacked one of my boxes, I found that the packers had bent the right wing of my favorite control line model plane at a right angle to make it fit the box. 😲😩

I left the USS Connole in the spring of 1971 to go to Survival School for Vietnam service, and then to Vietnam so I would not have met Mr Spear.

My second ship was the USS Connole, DE 1056 of the Knox class. When I reported for duty, the ship was still under construction in New Orleans.

Once we had completed construction, it was only a couple of months before we went to Charleston Naval Shipyard where we had a list of Shipalts to be performed. So if we would be moored next to the USS Knox, you would be able to see differences.

The best you can do to be totally accurate is to get all the photos of a ship in the narrowest period of time in which you wish to model her. You can also look at pictures of sisters, but there will probably be differences. But who will have contrary information to prove yo wrong? 😄

I served on three ships during my active duty in the US Navy from 1967 to 1977 and many more while in training as a midshipman.

Each of them had haze gray bulkheads (verticals) and darker blue gray decks. The darker color of the decks was to minimize the effects of human traffic on the decks, as well as equipment, such as mooring lines, replenishment gear, mooring lines and gear, ammunition and storage.

So paint your decks the darker color.

As for minesweeping lights, you can find images of your ship in World War II in Google. If that’s the period during which you wish to model her, the lights should show.

That comment should have been made for the minesweeper post, but coast guard ships and most boats also have dark gray decks.

I was on active duty from 1967 to 1977. Each of the ships I was on had darker blue-gray for the decks, as opposed to the haze gray bulkheads. The decks, upon which people and equipment move around would show much more dirt and wear if they had been painted haze gray like the bulkheads.

So use the darker color.

I missed this model on your first post. This one has a great deal of ‘character,’ like the sailing barges and puffers, but even more so, because it can be run under sail or power or both, all scale operations.

Do you know if it was built from a plan?

Thank you for showing her.

So many boats and so little time. 😉

Very nice! Lots of fine detail!

Very pretty!

Very nice. I just love Chris Crafts, and that one is beautiful!

We have our Merlin under a rose bush in our garden. I’m sure your yew tree will have additional meaning. 🥰♥️

Sincere Condolences for your loss. It is a very sad time to lose such a loyal friend. 😢

Gee- Ya think?

Very lovely model! Have you built any barges to play with, or are they on your list?