Mark & Skipper your both spot on, i/c is short for internal Combustion, again it's the noise factor and speed, but with the improvement of electric motors, i.e brushless the latter isn't so much a factor. Recently my club at Ethrow Park, already i/c are banned, have had to put a speed restriction on boats sailing there, due to complaints from members and public, of some modelers using excessive speed and harassing local aquatic bird life.
Ah! my very first boat way back in the 50/60, always remember thinking it was much bigger than it was, used to free sail it at Stamford park boating / paddling pool, now filled in. Powered with a 4.5volt bike battery all I could afford on my 5/- (25np), pocket money. I think it cost 35/- (£1.75) a princely sum, may one day build another,but think they are more like £75 per kit these day, struggle to get that past her indoors🤔
So glad they worked for you, have been back to PB site and added link to all folders on OneDrive as well as google+, just to cover all the bases. Thanks for the idea 😁. Most of her cargo LCAs and LCMs and launch ramps, I did in mainly plastic card, bar the Keel of the LCAs were constructed in balsa, for ease. One or two of the LCAs had plywood sides & deck, but which even I couldn't say 😋
Glad you like my efforts RNinMunich, here and on the internet, the longer link in your post, still researching HMS Princess Beatrix even know the model is built, in the process of changing her railings, from plastic to brass. I found De Schelde her, builder very helpful even sent me a 50th scale drawings of her hull, too late in the build to convert my hull shape, to match, but she turned out to be a very stable boat in the long run. Did offer them some picture of her when completed, but got no responce.
Hi Octoman, I usual soak until pliant enough, then bend and clamp over a former, leaving over night same as others have suggested then glue and clamp to prepared formers, I personally have not tried steaming them. I added some pictures of a Funnel I made for my HMS Princess Beatrix model, as you an see it takes quite a curve with out splitting. :-P
My brother was given a partial built one a while back believe they are 1/200th -192nd, so around 45" to 48" long, one small warning make sure you seal the portholes, before sailing, he was merrily sailing his, when it dawned on him he had not, brought it gently in and luckily it had very little h2o in it. I was peeved as I had just lost my scratch built version, the previous year before, it had rotted away in my leaky shed and would not have minded it myself :-)
Greetings never too late, to some this is not a pastime, more a way of live, but I in the pleasant pastime category. You'll find they are an helpful group if you have any problems, someone will nearly always have an answer for you. or point you in theright direction. Bon voyage & happy sailing :-)
Glad you like it, unfortunately, just had a message from Ethrow club, that they are banning fast electrics boats, after a number of complaints from public, about wildlife being harried by someone sailing their speedboat at them. I am not one of them try always to run in empty water, when at all possible. Need to check what they class as fast, or head to local canal and its weeds for my next speed rush.
Nice work so far, my Brother had a similar idea, re hatch sizes, but he scratched built boat hull in 4 watertight sections, held together with rods, pushed pushed down from deck and using computer leads for Bow thrusters/lighting/radar etc. With all sections in place it could a large tanker, remove one section it could convert to a coaster, using Bow and Stern it became a large tug, all superstructure could be placed in any position on deck,even bridge section could be altered, by sliding it back and forth, back for cargo /oiler, forward tug. All this he could do in minutes, so looked it looked like he'd brought a shed load of boats to the lake. :-)
Beat me to it, I have used WEP and scrap plastic, to strengthen all joints in a Plastic TID tug, Corvette and my latest build Vosper Gun boat.I used a small jam jar as issued with my toasted tea cake at Costa coffee, just cut up some scrap plastic into jar, pour in enough WEP to cover, seal jar with lid leave over night, then using a cheap brush paint inside and in your case outside joint, after cleaning surfaces first. My TID tug, has stood up to of many a knock, with no leaks so far, apart from when my Brother ran it down with his RC yacht and she turned turtle took on water and down she went , after a quick rescue and trip to park gents to use its hand drier, she was soon back sailing, joints still intact :-)
Impressive looking hull, superstructure looking about right, most of my earlier model are scratchbuilt, using what ever was to hand. Until quite recently all my hulls where balsa and ply board, progressed to plastic and plastic card these days. Welcome to an interesting hobby.
Yet they still show the shop frontage on their site and Magazine adverts. It was a sad day when my local model shop Ashton Models closed, know far and wide used it man and boy in that order, they were old school, seemed to know everything about any hobby you could think of, rarely where they stumped. If you needed a thingy bob for a whats it you call it, you left with the very thing you needed, it was a treasure trove. A sad day indeed when they closed.
All of the above suggestion should work fine, but a good idea to remove as much H2O as possible after every sail, and leave hatches etc open at least over night, to allow for any remaining dampness to dissipate that may have by-passed the waterproof coating, Have a 1/24th scale Vosper Motor Torpedo boat, constructed using balsa with tissue cover, which is some 30-40 years old, hull still sound using the above mantra. 😎
I have not got what I order from Westbourne ever, either send me an alternative or after a phone call or three was told out of stock, still a waiting refund, not a large amount so not too bothered, just trust as gone out the window. They still advertising on web and Model boat magazines. I'd stick with Cornwall Model or any other Model shop, but Westbourne.
Seems a shame, before our club find, my Brother and I used either local parks boating pond, now filled in or local canal, with its granite sides, so built them strong. My oldest boat was built mid '80s and with some running repairs could still get back on the water.
Oh yes it my better halves health not mine, I just got wonky knees, but use two straps to launch and retrieve boats gets around that problem. I belief club as a rescue boat powered by an electric motor these days, which helps with ice breaking duties, not half as much fun :-)
Thanks for your kind thoughts, keeping my mind busy up dating my various boats, HMS Princess Beatrix, Duke of York, RAF Fire boat, Vosper Gunboat now as its Torpepo tubes, to name a few and a couple of experimental boats and if that was not enough, doing photo repair and colourization mainly on Facebook although just done one for Ethrow Club site.
It wasn't jammed that tight a full reverse got him clear, he had forgot it had a that shape of bow, the idea as it carried a lot of Lead and house Bricks (kept at lakeside as ballast), we thought it would slice its way through, we then tried my Norfolk Broads Boat it had the right shaped bow and easily run up the ice and like an icebreaker its weight snapped the ice, all was fine until battery shifted and became disconnected, so after my brother nudge it in, we tried my Racing boat it's battery was mounted more securely and as long as we didn't let ice get to thick it worked fine :-)
Air bricks are best as they have holes already in to thread rope through. Works a treat at Ethrow Park once it is clear to open water, keep channel open by running you boats back to shore every so often. Funnily enough our lighter boats work best as they rode up the thinner ice and their weight distribution the rest. Brother 6' tanker was useless as it had a bulbous nose and just got jammed. :-)