do it!! I regretted it the minute I had finished my 4 footer. So this is a 3 foot boat, glass hull (cant remember where it came from) the rest is scratch. Superstructure plastic, with ply formers etc, virtually all fittings hand made from brass. Davit worked, windows opened (inc rear ones) and so on. Sadly he passed away prior to paint, so I finished it, and returned to his wife in a glass box.
nice job, I just cant work with wood, it hates me😁 so used plasticard, here is the hinged front windows on my pals 3 foot boat. I planned to do this, but the refurb was taking so long I decided to accelerate and get it finished, meaning I didn't do the opening windows. It will be a nice unique and accurate touch if you fancy doing it!
Bit of trivia! Maybe something you want to consider the outermost front windows actually open by hinging at the top something I have only seen modelled once before. I decided against this on my boat due to Possible water leaks
great job so far! really well done, I had a similar thought regarding cabin detail, and the somewhat difficult access, and then, how can it be seen after all that hard work? My 3 foot aerokits boat has a removeable roof, it just drops on top, and is held in position by one m3 bolt ina central position under the hatch, its a "loose" interference fit. One convern following this, is water entry, it does splash up. With my 4 foot boat, I decided against a removable roof, as I knew this boat will work hard, and my clumsly hands might be prone to knocking things off, so I opened up the rear wall of the wheelhouse to gain access, with a removable panel which encompasses the rear sliding windows. I gave the cabin some dash detail, and always promised to return to the floor, and drivers seat etc, but never have. I like it when we see builders individual takes on things, whilst the boats are essentially all the same, it makes them individual, and we all put our own stamp on things. Your engineering skilss are magnificent!👍
I was there last week, our old neighbors where Spanish and introduced us to the town (much bigger now) approx 10 years agao, so whilst in Alicante for a week we used the bus to go there for a day out. We passed a lot of very nice looking lakes on route, with the road being in the middle of water eithrr side, they looked man made, great fo flying watwer planes! what are they for?
what a great idea! wish it wasn't so far, so anyone can turn up with an rc boat, but its a race, like a drag race? what's the format, I know its informal, but I'm wondering how it works, just draw lots to race, could be elec against ic, scale against, well anything! sounds like a load of fun👍 I'm interested....😉
its a"pibber" this is the boat martin sheen used in the film "apocalypse now", first job for me would be get that cardboard flag off and find a silk one that will move in the wind! good fun looking boat though, and the jet drives mean iy could operate in shallow water👍
I think you might need pointing in a direction, so I had a quick look on Hobbyking, and this motor is the sort of thing you can use, although this particular one would need you to swop the shaft around, this is just a guide, other s will no doubt add comment, its the right size, 5mm shaft, right kv and watts. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-g15-brushless-outrunner-... brushless esc https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-90a-boat-esc-4a-sbec.h... you don't need the high amp capability, but its reversing, programmable, water cooled, and has an sbec, so the main battery power this 5 mm shaft, move your motor to the centre section meaning weight distribution is more central, and you can now use a shorter shaft, and get a couple off plastic "x" props, I would say 40 to 45mm will be the one. This will give a good speed, and you can power on 3 cells or 4 cells lipo, get higher c rating (40c or more) and higher mah so you have fuel in the tank available https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-3000mah-4s-40c-l... This is just a guide, a starting point, as I feel you are unsure where to start, others with more knowledge will come in regarding this, having experience with lipo, brushless, 3 foot ply boats, and esc's, depending on budget, this would be the sort of thing I would be getting.
big pair of molegrips on it, and twist😁 regarding the rudder, I use standard profile rudders, and cut them this way. The rudders are like brakes, and I was having issues on fast gradual turns the bow was coming down, almost digging in. Thinking it was weight displacement I spent ages messing around, until a friend suggested cutting down the front edge, gradually, and seeing how it went, this cured the problem, turns are nice and flat
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light racing boat set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather😊 I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic) The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. If you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money. As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing. My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way😭 When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time. Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, 👍
Its pretty much impossible to say with pictures, but some video would tell the story as to is the plane due to speed, or imbalance, at the end of the day its your model so if you are happy that is enough!👍
I was lucky with my 4 foot boat, I had a milling machine, but with thew 3 footer, I used plasticard and cut out by hand with a sharp knife. The problem with the earlier aerokits boats, the windows are never quite the same boat to boat, so you end up with a thick profile frame to cover over any discrepancies, if you know what I mean. The fitting set at slec looks a bit expensive at £35....🤔
Hi Peter, its only the wheelhouse that has frames, sides, screen, and the two rear windows. The cabins didnt have any, other than brows over the top of the front two, the style differs depending on it being 93 or 94. I made my own from plasticard, very fiddly but worth it
I dont uses mixes, but do use exponential and rates (spektrum dx6i) with my twin screw brushless 4 foot fireboat. When at speed rates on, then it turns nicer, no roll, when going slow rates off so turns are sharper, if that makes sense. Mixing the throttles.. interesting not thought of that, but it will lose power/speed. We use mixing on planes for taxiing, particularly on water, but once airborne its off. My avatar has this as the cheapo motors just wont balance so it compensates for this on the water. With the boat its easier to control with rudder input. I like the thinking though!😁
Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍
Hi peter, do you want a brass 3 blade prop for cosmetic reasons, if so they do look nice. I did extensive testing with my 3 foot fireboat using brushed, then brushless motors, and then prop testing. I was using eagle tree data logging for watts, amps, gps speed etc. The plastic two blade cheap as chips props actually produce similar readings to the more expensive brass 3 blades. Personally, as you are at the "guess work" stage, just use the plastic two blade ones, but use "x" pitch, standard wont give you the speed. Get a few sizes, 30, 35 40 mm and test. When you have the optimum set up you can then go to the expense of the brass prop. I sent Simon Higgins (ex prop shop) my readings and he made a specific prop for my boat, its a 35mm cleaver 3 blade. He has his own company now but I've forgotten what it is! He was at Blackpool last year so someone might have the list of traders. His props are balanced and one piece, very nice. I also experimented with a belt driven gearbox. The set up I have at the minute is this motor https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-t600-brushless-outrunner... overkill really! but my 3 footer is an original very heavy aerokits boat.
so following a plea for a cast off boat for a friend, Dave generously donated this hull, its very nice. We discussed a gun boat, in a stand off sort of scale, as he likes military, with perhaps a superstructure that can be removed, and a different one made to fit, so two boats In one. But the more I look at it, the more I think it would make a minesweeper etc sort of thing. I'm not that well up with this sort of craft, its 43 inches long, so quite narrow, It has to be pretty much "none fussy" as the owner and builder is relatively new to this, Ill help, but its his boat, and he has clumsy hands, 😊 so it wont be super detailed. Easy to use, so single screw, more than likely brushed motor running nimhs or even lead acid (ouch🤓 that goes against everything I do!)_ Ideas please!
Hi Steve, many think for offer, its well worth far far more, but its just too good for what I am looking for! I need somethingn thats about to go in the bin !😁 thanks for the generous offer though Paul
its this https://hobbyking.com/en_us/orangerx-rx3s-3-axis-flight-stab... it replaces the reciver, as this is one. you turn your rates off on the tx, I set all the values on the receiver in the middle, and hey presto, it allows you to fly in "slightly" stronger winds. When you hold the plane in your hand, and turn it, as though in wind, the control surfaces move to compensate, quite clever really, like a gyro in an rc heli controlling and holding the tail👍
I asked this months ago, but Ill put it back out there just in case someone has a dead project. I need a very very cheap (free would be good!) project for a friend who is getting over illness. He cant afford a model, has pretty much no funds, and has always wanted an aerokits Fireboat. If I can get my hands on one, Ill refurb it with him, I have pretty much most of the running gear etc. He likes military, so a PT, MTB etc would do. If you have such a thing just lying there waiting to go in the bin, can I please have it! Not for resale profit, but to make someone very happy Thanks Paul
Following on from previous posts in the fireboat and sunderland thread.... Ok Doug, like I said nice model for the bucks, I much prefer the grey scheme to my blue/yellow, but mine was a deal so went with it, its my second. The cat has a tendancy to tip stall at lower speeds, and will not recover, there are things you can do, these are the main ones, read that link on rc groups👍 If water flying, the floats are too low, they need raising as much as you can, prob an inch, and angling upwards, or they snag on the water. If your tx allows it, dial in rudder and aileron mix, it stops the tail dropping in turns, looks better, and helps prevent the tip stall get cog correct with battery placement, pretty easy to do do range check when rx is installed, the position you will have it (not much room in the fuse) can be blinded by the battery. I have a cheap orange stabilizer one in mine, it really really helps! both ailerons need a few mills upward attitude, this helps with the tip stalling, and landing, its something to do with creating washout, too technical for me😋 the lights you see on mine are hobbyking light set, apparently the v2 you have has better lights with a plug, detrium dont usually have these there is a design fault, the rear stabiliser has a small twist, some fix this, I didnt bother I could go on, but the link is a good read as it helps with hints how to fly now you need somewhere to fly it, its fine off grass sand and water, oh, check for waterleaks prior to flying, the step under the fuse is a weak spot, change the cheap metal pushrods for nylon or plastic when you can, they rust real easy, there are easy mods to stop the rods flexing, particularly on the elevator, I fitted a second rod so I have one either side of the elevator, and dial in rates, you dont need much throw with this big lazy bird👍