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>> Home > Members > pmdevlin
Registered
26th Apr 2008
Last Online
25th Jun 2017
pmdevlin

Member Stats
Stats
Member No. 89
Registered 26th Apr 2008
Last Online 25th Jun 2017
City Wirral
Country United Kingdom
Boats in Harbour 4
Sailing Locations 1
Forum Posts 299
Photos Posted 284
Likes Received 88
Likes Given 0
478 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
St Helens Model Boat Club
Since: 18th Sep 2012
Harbour
Aerokits Fireboat crashtender 46"
Type: Fire Boat
The Orca
Type: Working Vessel
Veron Huntsman 28
Type: Pleasure Craft
Fire Boat
Type: Fire Boat
Fleet Admiral!
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
Top Ranking Member!
Points
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 32
Forum Thread 5 160
Forum Post 2 598
Event 8 16
Photo Gallery 10 30
Photos Response 3 6
Video Post 15 45
Video Response 3 21
Build Blog 20 20
Blog Post 5 360
Blog Response 3 261
Sailor 8 8
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 0
Received Likes 2 176
1733 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
United Kingdom
Recent Posts
The suction hoses – part 1. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 17 days ago
great idea with the masking tape Rob, they look very nice👍

a very noisy fireboat by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 22 days ago
Hoylake is just close Dave, and you can park close, its usually quiet, so for testing etc its fine, just a bit small for the bigger scale boats. New Brighton is very busy on these light evenings, parking can be a problem in summer. My other local lake is gautby, a superb lake, big, easy access to all sides, but its not in the best of places. I could go over to Newsham in Liverpool, but you run the risk of kids again, and fishermen, hence Hoylake! and if the wind is down, I can fly on the beach! Paul

a very noisy fireboat by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 23 days ago
Hi Doug, they are from mrrcsound, available on the website, they are called tt25 transducers. Having played with these at length with model planes, I now know the hull thickness isn't enough. The thicker the material, the deeper the sound, but you lose volume. Unfortunately once epoxied on, they don't come off, until the epoxy goes brittle, which does happen as the vibrations cause this. If I try to pull them off now, they will break. I have too much volume, and not enough depth. With a plane, due to distance away from operator, you need the volume, with the boat, they don't go anywhere near as far away from the operator, so I messed up here😭 Ill turn it down a lot, see how that works out

a very noisy fireboat by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 24 days ago
its early on with this project, I was going to wait until its completed, but not sure when that will be, so Ill give you a sneak peak. I've been using a sound system in one of my model planes, and over time have become friendly with the guy who makes them, helping him with various things. I got thinking about the 4 foot fireboat I have, and how cool it would be to have a sound unit. So, to cut a long story short, I knew he had a plane sound with twin Merlin's for a bomber, and I use a merlin for my P51 Mustang model. After a serious amount of pestering, I got him to modify one of the 5 stock sounds on his Boat sound unit, using the twin Merlin sound from the planes. It took some work, getting rid of the propeller sound on the start up and shut down sequence. I ran it for the first time last night, but forgot to take spare batteries, and a small screwdriver to adjust the settings, so couldnt change the settings, in particular, the volume was set way too loud, losing some of the clarity of sound. This is pretty close to the real engines, which where v8 meteor, this sound is an actual recording of the v12 Merlin, its doubled up, and staggered, so you can hear the two engines running. It has start up and shut down sequence, it isn't clever enough to read reverse unfortunately. Its a speakerless system, using transducers instead of speakers, which are much louder, smaller and lighter. They rely on vibrations, they are epoxied to the hull, and the whole boat becomes the speaker! Its the first time I've done this, and its pretty new on the market for boats, planes have been going for a few years. I've realised that whilst I put them above the waterline, I didn't account for the roll of the hull, when one (there is one on either side) goes below the waterline it muffles the vibrations, and causes a funny sort of gurgling noise, ah well, like I say, its early days! Still a bit of tweaking to do, but you get the idea. Stock sounds are Turbo cat diesel, Johnson outboard, evenrude outboard, mercule v8, steam. They also have aux sounds, such as ships bell, steam whistle, horn, seagulls etc. I think on my system the Johnson is dropped in lieu of the twin merlin sound. Have a look at www.mrrcsound.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkJUHe1tR_w

ORCA by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 29 days ago
Hi Dave, its Hoylake, Wirral, whilst filled with fresh water, on the odd high tide as its right on the beach (hence lifeboat station on the background) it does get salt water In it Jaws, well here is the thing, remember MMB subsonic submarine kits? I bought one, and never got it to work. I have a box of bits, jus wanted it to dive to dorsal fin depth, and surface, it would be a cool project. I nearly got there, but gave up If anybody want to do a commission build, let me know👍

ORCA by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 30 days ago
had a play out, even in the dark, everyone knows what this boat is! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOO0QfESH-I

not quite a boat! by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
ok, its not a boat, but does use the water😉 I didn't have the nerve to land on the sea, tide was going the wrong way in event of a "problem"!! something different to enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lAuEkLEGLQ

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
Hey Doug, what does high length to beam mean? thanks Paul

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions" Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not. I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power. The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡 thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍 Paul

Paul Devlin's Crash Tender by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
thanks for sharing Dave! it handles better than the smaller one! Paul

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 1 month ago
They where planning boats Martin, capable of 30 knots, look at this, the front quarter of the boat is out of the water http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URhrnE3T8cs This model was originally built in 1962 and over time has gone through a coupe of refurbs, I made it way too heavy and it sits too low in the water. The brushless motor is too big, hence thinking of just swopping it with a smaller motor as it doesn't need to go as fast as I originally wanted a few years ago. Its never handled very well, the spray rails are now worn and pretty ineffective. At slow speeds the weight displacement is all wrong, and its bow heavy, almost ploughing the water, and it takes too much speed to get on the plane, I think she needs a diet, new spray rails, and a rethink on the battery placement. Unfortunately its a boat that very rarely sees the light of day, It would be interesting to know what other peoples boats weigh, without batteries, if anyone knows? thanks

Counter Rotating Props by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
no, they can turn outwards or inwards, as per my previous post, its trial and error whatever suits that application, its an easy job to swop them over, and just try it, by just swopping them over left to right, and reversing the motors. The blades just have to turn the correct way to drive the boat forwards

bruce-- by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
you know I want that so badly to go with my Orca😭

3 Footer on a very rare outing by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
must be first time in a few years, its running too heavy, time to lose weight, and reposition the batteries, I had forgotten how much water this moves😱 I have also decided to go back to brushed, it doesn't need the speed this can do, it gets too high on the plane

Fireboat or similar by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
thanks for links, unfortunately they are too small, he would find them too fiddly, so really 3 feet or bigger Paul

Fireboat or similar by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Dave, I took him out for a couple of hours today, he has a small "shop bought" boat that he converted to a gun boat. I had my 3 foot fireboat, and we got talking, he would love a pt, mtb, Fireboat or similar, so I've got to find a "in need of big repair" project! Paul

Fireboat or similar by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi all, I have a pal who has come through a bad illness, he needs purpose, he loves rc boats, especially military, but doesnt own what I call a proper model. If anybody has a refurb, in Merseyside, Wirral, Cheshire, can I have it? Very limited funds, so free to next to nothing please! I will do the rebuild with him, its not for resale or profit, thanks Paul

Speed controls by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
oops, you have a dx5 http://rcmuppet.blogspot.co.uk/2009/06/converting-spektrum-d... This part of the discussion has nothing to do with your original question, so dont get confused!

Speed controls by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
mode 2 is generally considered the standard for UK, which is throttle on left stick. Mode 1 will be throttle on right stick. Spektrum dx6 or dx6i can be changed, its in the programming menu, however then a mechanical change needs to be made inside the transmitter First paragraph https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SPM6630-Manual_Addendum_Mod...

Speed controls by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
so, I'm trying to go over this in my head!😱 boat is going right way, stick is going right way, but the esc is actually reversed, as its on lower power, so if we change the motor wires, forward stick is now reverse, boat goes backwards, which is great for the esc, so now we need to reverse the channel, so the boat goes max forward, with forward stick, I think!🤔

Speed controls by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Not Sure Doug, I think the boat is going the right way, with the right stick movement, its just not the right way around for max power, I was thinking what you say, but then the tx stick will be the wrong way around? Tinkering will be required I think!👍

Battery problems by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
My knowledge of "elecy" stuff is pretty limited, but I see that the model boat world (excluding racing types) is in the dark ages compared to planes, helis, cars etc when it comes to motors, batteries etc We have to reply a lot on testing, fiddling etc when it comes to gettingn a fast electric set up, in a scale heavy old wood boat😁 as there isnt much info out there. I tried testing over a long time, with one boat inparticular, and was lucky enough to have te use of eagle tree data logging, so could measure watts, amps, gps speed, voltage drop and so on, and analyse the resultsd on graphs etc back home on the pc. Its amazing to see that sometime s the fastest set up isnt always the best when you compare run time, amp draw, heat, voltage draw etc, and what "looks fast" sometimes isnt as fast as you thought😊 This boat for example, 6kg, ply construction will do 25mph, after that torque roll is kicking in, and it want to roll over. I tested props over a long time, using cheap plastic "X" props, and with the results was then able to get a more efficient and visually pleasing brass cleaver 3 blade one. Ranging from 50mm to 55mm the amp draw went from 45a to 90a using same batteries!, and teh highest amp draw prop didnt produce the fastest speed, all interesting stuff. The boat is similar to the OP perkassa. I also went from direct drive, to a geared drive, and can change the characteristics of the boat using different cheap gears, eg., small lake, dont need top speed, so change to acceleration, big lake, lets give up acceleration and have top speed, and so on👍

Speed controls by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
some esc's, particularly the cheap end ones (unfortunately those blue case ones have a rep to emit the black magic smoke) have a reduced reverse, to protect the model in the event of knocking the stick etc, so you don't get full tilt into the wall or bank😱 If you have the max speed in reverse, then you need to swop any two wires if its a brushless motor, and then reverse the channel on the transmitter, max speed is always forward, so its a fundamental set up issue here. You also need to ensure the stall or max amp draw is within the tolerances of the esc stated amperage, and be mindful that Chinese esc's generally have a very over exaggerated stated specification. In the set up programme of the esc, you can usually change the direction here, its going to take a bit of fiddling, but its achievable

Battery problems by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
something is fundamentally wrong here, there is no way that motor/esc/battery combo should have fried the esc in your perkassa. I have a number of large scale boats with a fast brushless set up, I pull almost 90 amps with one of them, on the initial acceleration, using 6 cells, 120a esc and (here is the difference) a 900kv brushless motor. The racing guys use high kv motors, they need the high revs, with a heavier boat like yours, you need the revs, but also the torque, which is a lower kv motor Before you do anything else, buy something like this http://www.4-max.co.uk/wattmeter-budget.htm really cheap, but saves you a fortune. As many of previous posts have said, you need to measure what is going on, for example, the specs of you motor say max current is 100amps, you need to measure your amp draw. You know the esc was 160a with a burst of 200a, so should have been well within the capabilities of your set up, but we cant see the prop. If its too big, and too coarse, particularly holding the boat, the amp burst would have had to exceed 160a to pop the esc, which is also well over the motor specs. I doubt the hobby shop will do anything, as the fault could have been a multitude of things, Personally, I think that motor is way too high KV, and I'm saying this from experience of large, heavy scale boats, with fast brushless set ups. I would have expected it to rev very high, but not deliver a really fast top speed, but I could be wrong. Shame really as its quite an expensive set up there. Are you sure about the facts, holding that boat, and max throttle must have been pulling your arm off, I cant hold any of mine😱

Fantastic Plastic by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
if you wanted to be real fussy, pm stephen see if he can 3d print the top part of the engine that is visible, he did these engines for me

Li-Poly batteries by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
to add to that, its also regarded as good practise to balance charge the lipo, using the balance lead, and and appropriate lipo charger, I believe all lipo chargers have this facility. This means the cells are all equal when fully charged, and you can view this on the charger display. It also means that none of the cells will be overcharged, and risk fire etc. The down side is that as the charger enters the final stage of balancing and achieving fully charged, it takes a while, as the current reduces, so patience is a virtue, and never leave unattended whilst charging, that applies to all chemistry, I have seem a nihm explode due to over charging, its not just this lipo myth that is risky!😉

The servo mount. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Rob, personally I would keep the clevises, it will make fine tuning much easier than the ball and socket. As Dave said its about 35 degrees, but you radio can play a big part here. I use a spectrum dx6i. So I have dual rates and exponential settings, and use these when at speed, and then going slow. I wont bore you with this as you may know what I am talking about, if not let me know Ill explain, but I need to know if your radio accommodates this, virtually all digital transmitters will have this. Paul

Li-Poly batteries by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
internet is littered with info, but this link is good, easy explanations! http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

Li-Poly batteries by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
nasraf, have you not got that the wrong way around? The higher the c rating (rate of discharge) is the quicker the lipo can deliver? , you state the opposite, Otherwise why would we spend extra bucks on a higher c rated lipo? FDor example, I have a certain model plane, if I fly with a 3300mah 25c lipo, I expect and get a shorter flight time, and less power when wanting to do stunts, as the battery is depleting. I know this due to the fact I have a lipo low voltage alarm plugged in, set at a generous 3.7v per cell. So I then fly with a 5000mah 40c pack, the flight time is longer, and the stunts will last longer into the pack due to higher c rating. OK, battery make, and age etc come into play, but this is a generalisation. Going back to the original post, in simple terms, the higher the mah (amp per hour is a simple move the decimal place) and high the c rating, the faster the boat will run, and the longer it will last. Correct me if I'm wrong?👍

The tow hook stays. by pmdevlin Fleet Admiral!   Posted: 2 months ago
nice job with that Rob, I fail miserably at silver soldering, never seem to be able to get things hot enough