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Liked J. R. More 10 years ago
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💬 Sir William Hoy
9 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot (
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HI Denis
Thank you for your comment. Both scratchbuilt
Ralph
Thank you for your comment. Both scratchbuilt
Ralph
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📝 Sir William Hoy
9 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Started Sir William Hoy in 2013 and is 45 inches in length and I am still working on the fittings and finishing. The original coal fired tug was built 1929 in the N.E. of England.
Both model tugs have twin motors geared down 6 to 1 and have differential steering.
Both model tugs have twin motors geared down 6 to 1 and have differential steering.
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circle43nautical
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📝 J.R. More and the Sir William Hoy
9 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Both these models are scratch built Durban tugs in 1:48 scale.
Built J.R. More between 2011 and 2012 and is 41 inches in length. The original oil fired tug was built 1961 on the Clyde and was one of the last steam tugs to be built on the Clyde. This tug still exists at the Durban Museum and is undergoing restoration.
Started Sir William Hoy in 2013 and is 45 inches in length and I am still working on the fittings and finishing. The original coal fired tug was built 1929 in the N.E. of England.
Both model tugs have twin motors geared down 6 to 1 and have differential steering.
Built J.R. More between 2011 and 2012 and is 41 inches in length. The original oil fired tug was built 1961 on the Clyde and was one of the last steam tugs to be built on the Clyde. This tug still exists at the Durban Museum and is undergoing restoration.
Started Sir William Hoy in 2013 and is 45 inches in length and I am still working on the fittings and finishing. The original coal fired tug was built 1929 in the N.E. of England.
Both model tugs have twin motors geared down 6 to 1 and have differential steering.
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circle43nautical
📝 Making a mould to fabricate a hull
10 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Hi
I have built a tug using standard ply keel frame and deck, then glued extruded foam between the frames keel and deck to complete the shape, after smoothing I have glassfibred directly onto the foam using west system Epoxy resin - which does not destroy the foam. This makes a very solid hull, which is virtually unsinkable. The foam is from packing saved for this purpose. I am now building a second 46 inch tug using same system.
Ralph
I have built a tug using standard ply keel frame and deck, then glued extruded foam between the frames keel and deck to complete the shape, after smoothing I have glassfibred directly onto the foam using west system Epoxy resin - which does not destroy the foam. This makes a very solid hull, which is virtually unsinkable. The foam is from packing saved for this purpose. I am now building a second 46 inch tug using same system.
Ralph
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ralphwilmot
📝 Scaling up Plans
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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I recently got tug plans at 1:96 scale. I went to the local Staples office supplies store and a kindly lady enlarged the 4 plans on an A0 copier and that gave exactly 1:48 scale I needed on two A0 sheets for £3 a sheet. A bargain.
Regards Ralph
Regards Ralph
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ralphwilmot
📝 SAR&H Steam Tug PLANS wanted
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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My thanks to Harold in the USA for providing copies of the Lines and Plans for the Sir William Hoy. Thanks also to model-boats.com which enabled this to happen.
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📝 (Tug Boat) Sir William Hoy. (New photo under construction)
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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I was lucky to have found someone, who had a copy of the SAR&H Durban coal fired Tug plans of the Sir William Hoy, which plans came in the form of lines at 1:48 scale and the plans at 1:96 scale (thanks to Harold in the US for his coping and posting these to me) and local Staples store, who have a A0 copier, which did an excellent job of enlarging the plans to the required 1:48 scale.
This model is 45 inches.
Update 1st October 2014 Now Built and painted as in the Photo, Fittings and Engine casing still to be completed. (Motor: MFA919D Geared 1:6) (7/10)
This model is 45 inches.
Update 1st October 2014 Now Built and painted as in the Photo, Fittings and Engine casing still to be completed. (Motor: MFA919D Geared 1:6) (7/10)
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📝 RAF ST206 Crash Tender
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Started scratch building the 34" ST206 Crash Tender during October 2013.
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📝 (Fire Boat) RAF ST206 Crash Tender
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Started scratch build October 2013. Almost finished building at June 2015 (6/10)
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💬 Trent Lifeboat 1:16 Scale
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Thank you Dennis
Took out yesterday 4th July and it sailed nicely - trim was good without adjustment (first for everything).
Took out yesterday 4th July and it sailed nicely - trim was good without adjustment (first for everything).
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💬 RADAR using 3.7g micro servo
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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HI Dave
Yes the gear noise is a problem, tried to fill the gear box area with some light grease but not a good solution ..messy and too restrictive.
Going to only run the radar when under way, switching radar on via a mercury switch and the forward momentum. Noise not a problem that way and it won't wear out as quickly.
Thanks Ralph
Yes the gear noise is a problem, tried to fill the gear box area with some light grease but not a good solution ..messy and too restrictive.
Going to only run the radar when under way, switching radar on via a mercury switch and the forward momentum. Noise not a problem that way and it won't wear out as quickly.
Thanks Ralph
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💬 Tools for cutting neat Port Holes and clear plastic glazing
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Thanks Ron,
Think it looks better where the port should be flat with the side of the hull.
Ralph
Think it looks better where the port should be flat with the side of the hull.
Ralph
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📝 Trent Lifeboat 1:16 Scale
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Trent lifeboat Still under construction at 12 Months in.
Nearly finished at 3rd July 2013 - just the final touches.
First sailing 1st August 2013 - Sunny and warmest day of the year.
Nearly finished at 3rd July 2013 - just the final touches.
First sailing 1st August 2013 - Sunny and warmest day of the year.
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ralphwilmot
📝 South African Stream Tugs
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Anyone Interested In the old South African steam tugs, most of which were built on the Clyde.
I have a lot of photographs taken of and on the tug J. R. More In Durban.
For anyone Interested these photographs are available and can be printed In good resolution from:-
I have a lot of photographs taken of and on the tug J. R. More In Durban.
For anyone Interested these photographs are available and can be printed In good resolution from:-
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📝 WESTBOURNE MODEL CO.
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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HI Dave
Totally agree, it is a pity the new owner does not realise that, no response will lead to a bad reputation on any company and could ultimately to the loss of yet another once good supplier, who I have used in the past.
Totally agree, it is a pity the new owner does not realise that, no response will lead to a bad reputation on any company and could ultimately to the loss of yet another once good supplier, who I have used in the past.
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📝 WESTBOURNE MODEL CO.
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Really bad customer service not to answer emails or phone calls, especially to overseas customers, who will be put off buying from British suppliers generally.
Much better service is available from other UK suppliers, especially one in Cornwall.
Much better service is available from other UK suppliers, especially one in Cornwall.
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📝 RAF Fire Tender model saved me In flood Arun River.
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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I hasten to add, that I think it was unwise to risk myself this way. Be safe and know when not to sail.
I now take a ball of string with a tennis ball on one end. Useful to recover a model, stuck in weeds and so on.
I now take a ball of string with a tennis ball on one end. Useful to recover a model, stuck in weeds and so on.
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📝 RAF Fire Tender model saved me In flood Arun River.
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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I built the Aero RAF Fire Tender back In 1972, I was In the RAF during the 60's. After a year of regular use, It ended up In the loft and my working life took over for the next 25 years or so.
I restarted the hobby and recovered the model from the loft, completed a refit with a new 5cc IC engine and modern Radio gear.
Keen to test the boat. I took It down to the River Arun In West Sussex. However I found the river In flood but unwisely continued to put the boat on the water. She performed nicely, until the prop hit an object and the motor cut. The boat soon drifted to the middle of the fast flowing river and started off downstream. After a few hundred yards I decided to swim out and retrieve the boat, somewhat ahead of It. No problem with that, as I though I am a strong swimmer. I got hold of the boat no problem, then attempted to swim back to shore. However at this point In the river, It narrowed and hence the flow rate Increased somewhat. With the boat In hand, I found It Impossible to swim back to shore and eventually tired and had to rest.
It was at this point, I found the model provided enough buoyance to help keep me afloat. I drifted downstream holding onto the boat for about a mile, before an elderly gentleman seeing my plight, found a broken branch, long enough for me to get close enough to and eventually back to shore.
I restarted the hobby and recovered the model from the loft, completed a refit with a new 5cc IC engine and modern Radio gear.
Keen to test the boat. I took It down to the River Arun In West Sussex. However I found the river In flood but unwisely continued to put the boat on the water. She performed nicely, until the prop hit an object and the motor cut. The boat soon drifted to the middle of the fast flowing river and started off downstream. After a few hundred yards I decided to swim out and retrieve the boat, somewhat ahead of It. No problem with that, as I though I am a strong swimmer. I got hold of the boat no problem, then attempted to swim back to shore. However at this point In the river, It narrowed and hence the flow rate Increased somewhat. With the boat In hand, I found It Impossible to swim back to shore and eventually tired and had to rest.
It was at this point, I found the model provided enough buoyance to help keep me afloat. I drifted downstream holding onto the boat for about a mile, before an elderly gentleman seeing my plight, found a broken branch, long enough for me to get close enough to and eventually back to shore.
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📝 glazing windows with solid water
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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HI Dave
Yes I got round that by using clear resin on the inside after lightly fixing the glazing, that way I had a flush and flat looking plastic port on the outside of the hull and waterproofed on the inside. Using just resin tended to be concave. A lot depends how easy it is to get to the inside of the port I guess.
Yes I got round that by using clear resin on the inside after lightly fixing the glazing, that way I had a flush and flat looking plastic port on the outside of the hull and waterproofed on the inside. Using just resin tended to be concave. A lot depends how easy it is to get to the inside of the port I guess.
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📝 glazing windows with solid water
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Hi
See how I used circular punch to create clear plastic ports - Refer to Photo Gallery & Anything Else for full details.
See how I used circular punch to create clear plastic ports - Refer to Photo Gallery & Anything Else for full details.
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📝 Tools for cutting neat Port Holes and clear plastic glazing
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Standard wood drills (as in this photograph) work well for cutting neat, point centralised plastic-card port holes, as good as they do for wood or MFD etc. (instead of high-speed steel drills, which can end up a mess).
For clear plastic glazing to match these ports. I use circular punch's which cut neat clear round plastic glazing to fit, also for cutting round plastic-card for circular objects etc. I have found that it works better if punched with a hard hammer tap onto a flat hard-wood backing.
Photo examples and tools. These tools are both available on-line in sets between 3mm and 8mm.
For clear plastic glazing to match these ports. I use circular punch's which cut neat clear round plastic glazing to fit, also for cutting round plastic-card for circular objects etc. I have found that it works better if punched with a hard hammer tap onto a flat hard-wood backing.
Photo examples and tools. These tools are both available on-line in sets between 3mm and 8mm.
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📝 Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
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📝 RADAR using 3.7g micro servo
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Using a 3.7g micro-servo. it is possible to install this small unit within many of the existing model Radar parts or scratch built models to create a working model Radar setup.
Here is an example of one fitted to my RNLI Trent lifeboat. I am using the bottom of the servo housing to clamp this unit to the underside of the base of the kits Radar platform, this helped to reduce the overall height and to maintain the scale size.
These servos are available on eBay at £1.89 including postage from China or Hong Kong.
I found this easy to mount and I have kept the servo electronics, connecting this servo to a spare channel on the receiver. This enables the radar to rotated in both directs at adjustable speeds or just stopped. I usually have it adjust at slow : scale speed, setting this with the trim on the transmitter.
Photograph of working Radar installed into Trent RNLI model.
Here is an example of one fitted to my RNLI Trent lifeboat. I am using the bottom of the servo housing to clamp this unit to the underside of the base of the kits Radar platform, this helped to reduce the overall height and to maintain the scale size.
These servos are available on eBay at £1.89 including postage from China or Hong Kong.
I found this easy to mount and I have kept the servo electronics, connecting this servo to a spare channel on the receiver. This enables the radar to rotated in both directs at adjustable speeds or just stopped. I usually have it adjust at slow : scale speed, setting this with the trim on the transmitter.
Photograph of working Radar installed into Trent RNLI model.
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💬 A model of the S T Atlantic Cock
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Hi,
Good looking detailed tug, must be a heavy to launch.
Ralph
Good looking detailed tug, must be a heavy to launch.
Ralph
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📝 RC Model Tug of J. R. More
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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This Model of the J. R. More tug which was one of the very last large Steam Tugs built on the Clyde in 1961.
Scratchbuilt from the 1:48 scale plans of a sistership the F.C. Sturrock with various modifications for J. R. More. Powered by twin 12v geared motors.
The J. R. More Tug is a large tug and still exists as a Museum exhibit at the Durban Maritime Museum and well worth a visit in South Africa.
My thanks to Keith Marks who was a Master of J. R. More and the F. C. Sturrock among others for his photographs, help and interest during the construction of this model and is now a good friend.
This video was taken at the Sumner Ponds which is used on alternate Thursday by the Southwater Dabblers MBC.
Video is not very good quality but will remake with a better video.
Scratchbuilt from the 1:48 scale plans of a sistership the F.C. Sturrock with various modifications for J. R. More. Powered by twin 12v geared motors.
The J. R. More Tug is a large tug and still exists as a Museum exhibit at the Durban Maritime Museum and well worth a visit in South Africa.
My thanks to Keith Marks who was a Master of J. R. More and the F. C. Sturrock among others for his photographs, help and interest during the construction of this model and is now a good friend.
This video was taken at the Sumner Ponds which is used on alternate Thursday by the Southwater Dabblers MBC.
Video is not very good quality but will remake with a better video.
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figtree7nts
💬 J. R. More
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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HI Dave
Thank you for the contact. No would not attempt a Castle ship, all the ports would do my head in.
I will take some video of the Tug and post them when the weather allows. Also with some details on electronics etc.
Thanks 😊
Thank you for the contact. No would not attempt a Castle ship, all the ports would do my head in.
I will take some video of the Tug and post them when the weather allows. Also with some details on electronics etc.
Thanks 😊
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📝 (Life Boat) RNLI Trent Class
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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Kit 1:16 Scale. Took 18 months to finish which was in July 2013. Has working Radar, made from micro servo - using original servo electronics and channel 4 to run the Radar - working nicely as I can have the Radar off or rotate both directions just using the trim control on the transmitter. Has working led lights and flashing blue light when under way using mercury switch.
Has two Grupner 600 eco motors, which are overrun with 12 volts and as such I have them water cooled, which unfortunately has proved not workable as the scoops are not effective enough to circulate - so have installed small water pump driven by 3.7volt NI battery switched by two thermostats fitted to both motors - switching pump on when temp reaches 35 degrees C. (Motor: Grupner 600 eco) (ESC: Mtronicks Viper 15Ah) (8/10)
Has two Grupner 600 eco motors, which are overrun with 12 volts and as such I have them water cooled, which unfortunately has proved not workable as the scoops are not effective enough to circulate - so have installed small water pump driven by 3.7volt NI battery switched by two thermostats fitted to both motors - switching pump on when temp reaches 35 degrees C. (Motor: Grupner 600 eco) (ESC: Mtronicks Viper 15Ah) (8/10)
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📝 J. R. More
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
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J. R. MORE - LAST OF THE LARGEST STEAM TUGS BUILT ON THE CLYDE. The best looking tugs ever built!
This model is scratch build at 1:48 scale of the SAR&H Durban tug J. R. More, which was the last large steam tug built on the Clyde in 1962.
It took over 2 years to complete this model, which was my first scratch build from the modified plans of a sister tug called the F.C Sturrock, which was also stationed at Durban as the shift tug for that harbour. Other tugs of the class were also stationed at Port Elizabeth and Cape Town.
The J. R. More was the newer day tug in Durban, most often used to service the Union Castle ships and others in, out of Durban and remembered by so many visitors to South Africa of that time.
This model tug on the water has differential motor control, software linked with the rudder, can go about on the spot and a delight to sail as a model, capable of 6 or more hours on the water. Working Rotating Radar, lights and woop-woop sounder as per the original tug. I would also like to install the Telegraph bells, however these would drive fellow modellers to distraction, as they were a very distinctive sound and very regular, Implanted and well remembered by the crews and those in and around the harbour, even today. The engines on the other hand were almost quiet and by all accounts very reliable.
This model is ballasted mainly by two 7 Ah 12 Volt SLA Batteries for the main drive motors and a 2 Ah 12 Volt SLA (Aft ballast) for the Lights, Radar and Sound unit. All up weight is 14Kgs and capable of above scale speed from the two MFA 6:1 ratio Geared Motors driving two 4 bladed 70mm screws.
This model has onboard charge regulator circuit, built-in minature dual volt meter to allow quick on-board voltage inspection and single plug-in charge and regulator socket for charging all 3 Batteries together.
The actual full size J. R. More tug still survives and can be visited at the Durban Maritime Museum in Durban, South Africa. Local supporters are undergoing essential repairs, restoration and preservation with private and company financial support.
J R More is the only surviving large steam tug left of this class and as Important to the skills of the Scottish shipbuilders of the Clyde.
This model is scratch build at 1:48 scale of the SAR&H Durban tug J. R. More, which was the last large steam tug built on the Clyde in 1962.
It took over 2 years to complete this model, which was my first scratch build from the modified plans of a sister tug called the F.C Sturrock, which was also stationed at Durban as the shift tug for that harbour. Other tugs of the class were also stationed at Port Elizabeth and Cape Town.
The J. R. More was the newer day tug in Durban, most often used to service the Union Castle ships and others in, out of Durban and remembered by so many visitors to South Africa of that time.
This model tug on the water has differential motor control, software linked with the rudder, can go about on the spot and a delight to sail as a model, capable of 6 or more hours on the water. Working Rotating Radar, lights and woop-woop sounder as per the original tug. I would also like to install the Telegraph bells, however these would drive fellow modellers to distraction, as they were a very distinctive sound and very regular, Implanted and well remembered by the crews and those in and around the harbour, even today. The engines on the other hand were almost quiet and by all accounts very reliable.
This model is ballasted mainly by two 7 Ah 12 Volt SLA Batteries for the main drive motors and a 2 Ah 12 Volt SLA (Aft ballast) for the Lights, Radar and Sound unit. All up weight is 14Kgs and capable of above scale speed from the two MFA 6:1 ratio Geared Motors driving two 4 bladed 70mm screws.
This model has onboard charge regulator circuit, built-in minature dual volt meter to allow quick on-board voltage inspection and single plug-in charge and regulator socket for charging all 3 Batteries together.
The actual full size J. R. More tug still survives and can be visited at the Durban Maritime Museum in Durban, South Africa. Local supporters are undergoing essential repairs, restoration and preservation with private and company financial support.
J R More is the only surviving large steam tug left of this class and as Important to the skills of the Scottish shipbuilders of the Clyde.
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ralphwilmot
📝 (Tug Boat) J. R. More
11 years ago by 🇬🇧 ralphwilmot ( Master Seaman)
Master Seaman)✧ 2 Views · 0 Likes
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Scratch build of the SAR&H tug J. R. More which was the last large steam tug built on the Clyde. Over 2 years to complete the model. Great tug on the water with differential motor control, can go about on the spot. Rotating Radar, working lights and woop-woop sounder as per the original.
J. R. More still exists at the Durban Maritime Museum in South Africa. Although about to go under restoration by the good friends of the Durban Maritime Museum.
If you visit South Africa and Durban, it is well worth visiting and go aboard.
If anyone is interested in building a model of JR More or the Durban Tug - FC Sturrock. Model Boats have plans available and I have lots of photographs taken a few years back, which I have made available - please contact me if you want to view or copy. (Motor: MFA919D Geared 1:6) (ESC: Mtronicks Viper Marine) (9/10)
J. R. More still exists at the Durban Maritime Museum in South Africa. Although about to go under restoration by the good friends of the Durban Maritime Museum.
If you visit South Africa and Durban, it is well worth visiting and go aboard.
If anyone is interested in building a model of JR More or the Durban Tug - FC Sturrock. Model Boats have plans available and I have lots of photographs taken a few years back, which I have made available - please contact me if you want to view or copy. (Motor: MFA919D Geared 1:6) (ESC: Mtronicks Viper Marine) (9/10)
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