All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support.
Model Boats Website Team
November 2018: 6 people October 2018: 9 people September 2018: 13 people August 2018: 5 people July 2018: 8 people June 2018: 8 people May 2018: 7 people April 2018: 24 people March 2018: 13 people February 2018: 7 people
Hi Doug, Thanks. I can download and see a 'save as' as an option. I have not come across your previous explanations but that's my fault. Maybe the website can have an FAQ section with these explanations.
Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew members but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?t... I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.
I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.
The plan at the top of the thread shows a specific Water Tractor tug plan specifically designed for the VS drives, including the large straight keel at the stern. I suggest Green72West should either use VS drives or use another type of hull for Schottel drives.
Hi Doug, It may be more impressive if you used the 'Hedgehog' as that had a much bigger spread (more splashes). For your purpose the projectiles need to be heavier than balsa but able to float (but only just). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedgehog_(weapon)
Why do you need Schottel drives? The Voith Schneider drives in that configuration can move the boat in any direction? Schottel drives will require fairly big penetrations through the hull, and apart from the installation complications, should (in my opinion) be unnecessary. This is a link to a fairly comprehensive brochure with photos of the real thing that will help in understanding the concept etc. http://www.gemimanevrasi.com/Tug_Boat_Technology/Voith%20Wat...
Hi Ed, I have MTroniks ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.
Ideally the centre of the weight needs to be near the middle of the boat. The original plan looked OK, maybe it required the batteries a little further back. The whole propulsion system did look a bit heavy for the boat.
Hi Doug, I have used the floating periscope on my other submarine too. On that one there are two sets of two. If the periscope tubes slide easily and the float is big enough then it will work. I have used aluminium tubes on the HMS Triumph. The U boat scopes are both aluminium. They are loose so I can put one or both in before sailing. The floats are balsa wood and painted for sealing.
My suggestion would be to contact the Kehrer shop directly. They are most likely to answer any of your queries. Looking at the booster nozzle it looks like a circular section squeezed into a smaller square with the cross fins to straighten out the jet thrust.
My crew were made by Shapeways. Somewhat expensive, but I needed an unusual scale. I asked a question and the designer got back to me. I was able to select from a few different groups and he also did a few pose mods. The crew is available as U-181. I think they can be scaled down to any scale, although the Revell U-boat crew are also available and a lot cheaper. Some of them now sail on my 1/72 Z39 destroyer. So far I have put 9 crew members onto the U-boat and I have 3 remaining. They are for the front 105mm gun. My periscope has a very simple working method. A balsawood cylinder at the bottom of the periscope. Sub dives and the periscope comes up. Sub surfaces and the periscope goes down.
There are 2 ballast tanks 750ml each - allowing nearly 1.5kg of ballast. I have only fixed half the crew to the boat, and only some key ones in the conning tower. You cannot see them when at a distance and certainly not underwater, so a calculated view. They do stand out on the photos so it looks more realistic. I think the newer tube internals allow for smaller subs but there is hardly any space left within this model.
[Score: 9/10] 77"/17500g U-181 Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 90mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Geared to a Mabuchi 550 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks 20A ESC - Comments: This is an Engel kit, but heavily modified. The deck was replaced with 2mm polycarbonate and slots cut with a slotting tool on a lathe/drill. There are 3 access hatches instead of the original 1. The internal layout was completely revised. The dive system is the Engel Tmax that works very well. There are too many other changes to mention, but suffice to say they were to make the submarine more realistic and also easier to maintain.
Hi Boatshed, Fortunately my submarines and I are safely on the other side of the planet. I agree with Doug. Communication and common sense are essential to happy sailing. 😎 However, a colleague of mine that sails his subs in close proximity to others including out of control yachts, feels the need for a sign. It severely detracts from the realism of the model and has still been run into. Perhaps a 'muppet' flag on 'power boats' will make them obvious and enable local submariners to dive to safety.