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>> Home > Members > reilly4
5th Aug 2015
Last Online
10th Nov 2018

Member Stats
Member No. 3464
Registered 5th Aug 2015
Last Online 10th Nov 2018
City Avondale Heights VIC 3034
Country Australia
Boats in Harbour 3
Sailing Locations 0
Forum Posts 40
Photos Posted 68
Likes Received 178
Likes Given 190
92 Total Posts
Sailing Locations
No Sailing Locations
Type: Submarine
MTB741 Fairmile D
Type: Naval Ship
HS Simitzopoulos
Type: Naval Ship
Ranks Points
Fleet Admiral 1000
Admiral 800
Captain 600
Commander 400
Lieutenant 200
Sub-Lieutenant 100
Chief Petty Officer 50
Petty Officer 25
Seaman 10
Apprentice 2
Recruit 0
40 points away from Fleet Admiral!
Activity Worth Awarded
Boats in Harbour 8 24
Forum Thread 5 5
Forum Post 2 80
Event 8 0
Photo Gallery 10 20
Photos Response 3 33
Video Post 15 180
Video Response 3 66
Build Blog 20 0
Blog Post 5 0
Blog Response 3 6
Sailor 8 0
Guestbook Post 8 0
Liked Posts 1 190
Received Likes 2 356
960 Total Points
Good Conduct Medal
This member donated!
Recent Posts
Videos by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Hi Doug, Thanks. I can download and see a 'save as' as an option. I have not come across your previous explanations but that's my fault. Maybe the website can have an FAQ section with these explanations.

Videos by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 7 days ago
Doug, I have the same problem. All I see are Adobe PDF Icons.

Dumas USS Crockett by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 17 days ago
Videos in Landscape mode are much easier to watch. Videos resize to suit the screen so Portrait mode show the items smaller than they would appear in Landscape mode.

USCG POINT GLAS by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 20 days ago
A magnificent model. 👍👍

1/24 crew figures by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew members but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.

Paints by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.

Clyde Puffer by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Thanks for the info on the Hydrofoil boat.

MV Rhapsody by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
Nice model, it would be even better if it got up on the plane. It appears to be a bit underpowered.

solar by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 1 month ago
A nifty experimental boat. What about a back-up battery - charged by the solar panels. Gives a bit of continuity. 😎 Or to use Elton John's words for the boat's motto "Don't let the sun go down on me"

"Ooh - a life on the ocean waves ... by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Great photo. I wonder who was so brave as to have had the camera in both hands to take it.

W1 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Very classy model. Lots of nice work on the hull construction too.

bulkheads by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
The plan at the top of the thread shows a specific Water Tractor tug plan specifically designed for the VS drives, including the large straight keel at the stern. I suggest Green72West should either use VS drives or use another type of hull for Schottel drives.

Huge liner model from 1929 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Doug, It may be more impressive if you used the 'Hedgehog' as that had a much bigger spread (more splashes). For your purpose the projectiles need to be heavier than balsa but able to float (but only just).

bulkheads by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Why do you need Schottel drives? The Voith Schneider drives in that configuration can move the boat in any direction? Schottel drives will require fairly big penetrations through the hull, and apart from the installation complications, should (in my opinion) be unnecessary. This is a link to a fairly comprehensive brochure with photos of the real thing that will help in understanding the concept etc.

Clyde Puffer by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Nice boat, puffing along. I also like the hydrofoil boat. Is it possible to get some info/photos of the hydrofoil boat.

SLA Batteries! by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 2 months ago
Hi Ed, I have MTroniks ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.

Modav Huntsman 31 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
An excellent run! 😊

What is the optimum prop shaft angle? by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Ideally the centre of the weight needs to be near the middle of the boat. The original plan looked OK, maybe it required the batteries a little further back. The whole propulsion system did look a bit heavy for the boat.

SA Valour Class Frigate by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
A short video on the helicopter and hangar movements would be nice to see.

MTB741 Fairmile D by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 3 months ago
Newer photos of my 1/24 Scale scratchbuilt Fairmile D at Albert Park Lake in Melbourne, Australia. The conditions were good for realistic photos.

Triton by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
What a fantastic backdrop. The boat looks at home.

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 2 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
The best website for information on a model such as this is John Drain's If you have not come across it already it will be an invaluable resource.

Steam Boats by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
For those interested in Steam powered boats. A compilation of live steam boats in action at the Surrey Park Model Boat Club in Melbourne, Australia

U-181 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
Hi Doug, I have used the floating periscope on my other submarine too. On that one there are two sets of two. If the periscope tubes slide easily and the float is big enough then it will work. I have used aluminium tubes on the HMS Triumph. The U boat scopes are both aluminium. They are loose so I can put one or both in before sailing. The floats are balsa wood and painted for sealing.

Booster nozzle by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
My suggestion would be to contact the Kehrer shop directly. They are most likely to answer any of your queries. Looking at the booster nozzle it looks like a circular section squeezed into a smaller square with the cross fins to straighten out the jet thrust.

U-181 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
My crew were made by Shapeways. Somewhat expensive, but I needed an unusual scale. I asked a question and the designer got back to me. I was able to select from a few different groups and he also did a few pose mods. The crew is available as U-181. I think they can be scaled down to any scale, although the Revell U-boat crew are also available and a lot cheaper. Some of them now sail on my 1/72 Z39 destroyer. So far I have put 9 crew members onto the U-boat and I have 3 remaining. They are for the front 105mm gun. My periscope has a very simple working method. A balsawood cylinder at the bottom of the periscope. Sub dives and the periscope comes up. Sub surfaces and the periscope goes down.

U-181 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
There are 2 ballast tanks 750ml each - allowing nearly 1.5kg of ballast. I have only fixed half the crew to the boat, and only some key ones in the conning tower. You cannot see them when at a distance and certainly not underwater, so a calculated view. They do stand out on the photos so it looks more realistic. I think the newer tube internals allow for smaller subs but there is hardly any space left within this model.

U-181 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
[Score: 9/10] 77"/17500g U-181 Capable of 4mph and a runtime of 90mins Twin Propellors (3 Blade 35mm) Geared to a Mabuchi 550 (3 Blade) Powered by NiMH (6v) 10Amp/h Batteries Controlled Through MTroniks 20A ESC - Comments: This is an Engel kit, but heavily modified. The deck was replaced with 2mm polycarbonate and slots cut with a slotting tool on a lathe/drill. There are 3 access hatches instead of the original 1. The internal layout was completely revised. The dive system is the Engel Tmax that works very well. There are too many other changes to mention, but suffice to say they were to make the submarine more realistic and also easier to maintain.

U-181 by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 4 months ago
U-181 is a Type IX D2 U boat of the German Kriegsmarine. It is one of the largest U-boats. It is a heavily modified Engel kit. 1/45 scale. It took about 1 1/2 years to build.

Our boating water by reilly4 Admiral   Posted: 6 months ago
Hi Boatshed, Fortunately my submarines and I are safely on the other side of the planet. I agree with Doug. Communication and common sense are essential to happy sailing. 😎 However, a colleague of mine that sails his subs in close proximity to others including out of control yachts, feels the need for a sign. It severely detracts from the realism of the model and has still been run into. Perhaps a 'muppet' flag on 'power boats' will make them obvious and enable local submariners to dive to safety.