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Hi J.Barry, You can use the SLA batteries in any position but if they are laid on their side the weight is not evenly distributed. Most of the weight is in the lower section of the battery (when vertical), so if you lay one sideways in your boat you need to move it so that the weight is even, especially if you put one on the centreline of the boat (say over the keel). You can test this outside of the boat.
Hi Doug, Thanks. I can download and see a 'save as' as an option. I have not come across your previous explanations but that's my fault. Maybe the website can have an FAQ section with these explanations.
Shapeways have the greatest range of ship and boat crew members but they are expensive. You can ask for whatever scale you like, just need to discuss with the designer. https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/figurines?t... I got my U-boat crew done in 1/45 and a few of the characters with slightly modified poses. For my WW2 MTB's I used Preiser German firemen figures and modified them. They are not available any more.
I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.
The plan at the top of the thread shows a specific Water Tractor tug plan specifically designed for the VS drives, including the large straight keel at the stern. I suggest Green72West should either use VS drives or use another type of hull for Schottel drives.
Hi Doug, It may be more impressive if you used the 'Hedgehog' as that had a much bigger spread (more splashes). For your purpose the projectiles need to be heavier than balsa but able to float (but only just). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedgehog_(weapon)
Why do you need Schottel drives? The Voith Schneider drives in that configuration can move the boat in any direction? Schottel drives will require fairly big penetrations through the hull, and apart from the installation complications, should (in my opinion) be unnecessary. This is a link to a fairly comprehensive brochure with photos of the real thing that will help in understanding the concept etc. http://www.gemimanevrasi.com/Tug_Boat_Technology/Voith%20Wat...
Hi Ed, I have MTroniks ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.
Ideally the centre of the weight needs to be near the middle of the boat. The original plan looked OK, maybe it required the batteries a little further back. The whole propulsion system did look a bit heavy for the boat.
Hi Doug, I have used the floating periscope on my other submarine too. On that one there are two sets of two. If the periscope tubes slide easily and the float is big enough then it will work. I have used aluminium tubes on the HMS Triumph. The U boat scopes are both aluminium. They are loose so I can put one or both in before sailing. The floats are balsa wood and painted for sealing.
My suggestion would be to contact the Kehrer shop directly. They are most likely to answer any of your queries. Looking at the booster nozzle it looks like a circular section squeezed into a smaller square with the cross fins to straighten out the jet thrust.
My crew were made by Shapeways. Somewhat expensive, but I needed an unusual scale. I asked a question and the designer got back to me. I was able to select from a few different groups and he also did a few pose mods. The crew is available as U-181. I think they can be scaled down to any scale, although the Revell U-boat crew are also available and a lot cheaper. Some of them now sail on my 1/72 Z39 destroyer. So far I have put 9 crew members onto the U-boat and I have 3 remaining. They are for the front 105mm gun. My periscope has a very simple working method. A balsawood cylinder at the bottom of the periscope. Sub dives and the periscope comes up. Sub surfaces and the periscope goes down.