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it is not at Coate water but at a place called Tadpole pond (or lake) which is North Swindon, click on the map on the first post and it will show the location, I am hoping Penfold 63 will repost and confirm everything soon as the date is fast approaching, I have managed to get the Lloydsman tug ready for the event, but it won@t be winning any races 😆
Sorry looked at March 30th not April the 30th anyway it is immaterial as I have just seen the date as 31st March on the original post on this thread which is a Saturday which is great as I should be free, and I believe I am correct at saying this is at Tadpole lake just North of Swindon, even closer to me.
Can you confirm the date is the 30th April which is a Friday, also the time, as if in the morning and on the 30th I have a previous appointment and cannot make the morning, a bitter blow as Coate Water is my sailing venue.
Thank you for the replies, I can not strip all the paint from the boat as it is impractical, but I am going to flat it back over the next few days/weeks, as it is not a job I like doing, then I will wait for the warmer weather to finish it, meanwhile I will play on the lathe and do a bit of wood turning, nothing like making shavings/wood chips to while the time away 😜
After modding my Sea Queen with the new prop shaft I decided to smarten it up as the previous spray job I did was not too good, well I have had terrible trouble with it, the first attempt saw the original paint raise as I sprayed it with a primer that was supposed to be safe with all paints, so I removed as much as i could using the heat gun and a scraper, after sanding down and filling, I started again, i had some small patches raise up where I could not get the original paint completely removed, but after letting it dry and some wet and dry I managed to get a good primer coat on it. I then decided to spray it all white, so as I have always had good results with halfords own brand I gave it some light coats of white gloss, I was unable to get a reasonable gloss finish and it also needed some more filling, funny how a gloss coat show up all the defects, well subsequent attempts at spraying were useless, run after run and a poor gloss finish. All I can think is that I could not have had the area blanketed off in the workshop warm enough and the thinners in the paint was not drying as it hit the boat and just ran. I am now half way into sanding it all back and have decided to hand paint, What is the best paint and method to getting a near spray paint finish by hand brushing?
Brilliant, I have been using them for years, you can sign up for their news letter with their daily deals and stuff. A quick question to any sage, as I am doing a repaint of the hull, I thought I would fit a water pick up, which I have done, but where is the best place to fit the water outlet on a Sea Commander? To all a Happy Christmas and a prosperous New Year
Chris if you were replying to my post and not rmwall107 who inadvertently hijacked my thread, no offence and I am happy about it, but it does lead to confusion as maybe rm might mean we have two Richards on the same post, anyway back to my reply, this is the last time I will be making any alterations to my Sea Commander, what will be will be now. I wish to get to grips with my Lloydsman tug
ChrisF I have now floated the boat in the bath tub and measured the top edge of both the front and rear down to the water, back in the workshop I put some masking tape from the waterline mark from front to rear keeping the tape as straight as possible, it is not a million mile away from the Keel less than 2 degrees difference. so the prop will stay where it is. I have also now rubbed one side of the hull down and masked it to the water line and resprayed the top half white, the lower part of the hull will be resprayed black, the waterline line will be put on this. I will then repeat on the other side. I hope this will be correct.
Doug, Richard hereit is me that has the digital angle, I got it from a company called Rutland's here in the uk, www.rutlands.co.uk/, Thanks for the info about the water line, looks like I am going to have to use the bathroom bath again as I do not have the waterline marked as I have been experimenting with batteries and their position, the way I see it although I have arrived at a decision using a 56mm prop at the present angle, how do I decide the correct waterline at rest?
Chris, the boat is the Sea Commander, a boat my late father started in the 60's and I got to grips with it in 2015 but only floated it this year. Mark, I have just got in from the workshop and saw your comments, well guess what, after shortening the new shaft by an inch and running a 4mm die down the inner shaft and trimming it to suit, I had a brainwave, why don't I try to fit the new shaft inside the old tube which would solve the problem with the hole in the hull and keel, so I cut the old one to the required length and tapped the brass bush from the end, the inner diameter of the old tube was too small, so on the lathe with it and fed a drill down it from both ends, as I did not have a drill long enough, so the old tube is in place and the new shaft assy is fitted, all I have to do now is epoxy the whole set up. Mark have I measured the shaft angle correctly, using the keel as the flat line?
Hi all I have taken the bull by the horn and removed the 4ba prop-shaft, which was remarkably easy first using a stanley knife on the keel each side of the shaft and then as I was advised by a forum member to use mole grips, which I did, wallah out came the shaft, now as can be seen by the photos the new one, ( it is too long by an inch, Doh I ordered the wrong one) is a smaller diameter than the old one. What is the best way to refit it? Also using the keel as my straight edge, the shaft is at 9 degrees, is this going to be OK, also I am replacing the 54mm 3 blade prop for a 40mm so with the 850 motor I hope this will be sufficient.
I do not use YouTube, I am getting too old for all this tech stuff, so I will not bother to put the video's on, its not important, I think I have it sorted, may reduce the size of the prop, as when I turn port or starboard the extra drag really slows the boat down, so even though I have a large motor I think the 58 mm 3 blade is making the motor work too hard as it does get warm after 5 minutes running, so maybe with a smaller prop the motor may run faster as well, I suppose it will be like changing down on a hill the revs go up the engine has an easier time.
Well today was the first chance I had to take the boat to Coate Water in Swindon to use their small boating area, which is weed free and only about 3ft deep, Video 1 shows the boat with two 7.2 volt batteries at the rear of the boat, video 2 shows the boat with the two 7.2volt batteries mid section just behind the motor, video 3 shows the baot with the 12volt L/Acid battery with the two 7.2 volt batteries in the section in front of the motor as ballast, vidio 4 shows the bat with one 7.2 volt battery mid section with one 7.2 volt battery front section as ballast. Sorry about the quality of the video's but I was on my own so had my phone on a small tripod. The motor got quite hot, so maybe the 56 mm three bladed prop is too much still and I suspect the angle of the prop maybe too great, although with the present prop I would not be able to move it much as there is only about 5 mm between it and the hull. I seem to have trouble with downloading the video's it keeps coming up with a message saying download failed, I have tried downloading just one, that fails as well, any idea's?
Thanks chaps at a rough estimate and using the keel as the straight edge it is about correct for the electric motor. new cables and connectors along with a couple of mini servo's, arriving tomorrow, which I intend to rig up to operate some micro switches for lights and the like, cheaper than pukka switches. Jarvo and pmdevlin, when I can get the boat to water I will take some photo's and maybe a video with the battery's in the rudder compartment and also in the compartment just rear of the motor to see what you both think.
Sorry to keep asking questions but although I finished this in 2015 it is my first rc boat, in fact my first any boat, the first time I went to water so to speak, was three weeks ago, I am learning new things by reading the posts on this forum I have just read the post by RMWall107 about his boat and someone mentioned the angle of the prop-shaft with regards to an ic and electric motor angle, as my father who started the build in the 60's and was into his r/c aircraft I suspect he was going to fit an ic motor and fitted the prop accordingly. Can someone tell me the correct angle for an electric motor with any tolerances and also what the problems will be if the angle is too far out. Thanks
further to my previous post, I have now fitted the two NiMH Batteries (not nicad as I kept saying)in the rear compartment, held in with Velcro, and tidied the wires up and fitted an inline fuse, yet to be wired, the boat is much lighter, however all the other Velcro is still in place so I can move them forward if needed and fit the lead or Lead acid battery, so one visit to a pond and hopefully I can get it sailing correctly, my problem is I would not know what is correct and what is not, at least I have Pauls video as a reference.
very interesting Paul, I watched the video, I have weighed the boat as best I can, using the kitchen scales, the boat without any batteries or lead is 6Ib 3 oz (2815 gms)the lead ballast is 2 Lb (915 gms)the lead acid battery is 5Ib 9oz (grams) and the two NiMH batteries are 1Ib 10oz (747 gms) the boat now has an 850 motor with a 55mm 3 bladed prop, I do not have the experience to know whether the boat is sitting correctly without the ballast but do know that if I have the lead acid 12volt battery fitted in the only place it will fit then I need the ballast in the forward compartment making the boat weigh 13 Ib (6252 gms). if you are saying that I should keep it light then I could move theNiMH batteries to the compartment rear of the motor thus moving the weight towards the back and ditch the LA battery and lead ballast, I have no idea which part of the country you reside in, is it too far for me to drive to? as your sailing pond looks a lot better than the postage stamp we have to use in Swindon.
the first time I sailed the boat with the old motor she was fast and literally stood up in the water on half throttle with just the lead acid battery and no ballast, it was sitting with the back end about half an inch above the underside skins and the bow was well out of the water, I was advised by one of the club members that I needed to trim the boat so it was down at the front but keeping the stern approximately where it was, therfore the lead in the compartment forward of the motor and the battery in the compartment behind. However the 5000mAh and the 3300mAh batteries are not connect and are only held in place with a bit of velcro, also the lead in the front is just shaped to the hull and cannot move, but I can lift it out, so I will see how it runs next week
Motor fitted to platform and luckily there was enough depth to screw the motor platform to the stringers, I have moved the reciever forward to where it was and resecured the powerbox in a better position, just the leads with the bullet connectors from the motor to fit, although I have fitted the sealed lead acid 12 volt battery instead of the lead ballast (same weight) I have left the7.2v in situ as I trimmed the boat with them in and will see how it goes, it may have too much power on 12 volt and at least if my finger on the stick lacks control on the speed, I can slow things down by swapping over to the 7.2v batteries. If and when the sailing side is sorted, after seeing the pictures of members boats and ships, I think I will give it a good rub down and respray and smarten the inside up as well. Eventually I will get on with the Lloydsman
the motor has arrived today so into the workshop this afternoon, of course it is not going to be straightforward, the motor is much larger than the 540 size so the motor platform is too high. I fixed it down well, I did not want this to come loose, managed to cut it out with one of those vibrating cutter, just leaving the glued pieces to remove , not too difficult with a small wood chisel. So in the process of making a motor platform with new stringers so the platform is lower in the hull, break for tea, now going in to workshop to fix down the stringers to the hull and bulkheads with 2 part epoxy, The motor mount has been fixed to the platform with small nuts and bolts with a locking washer, I am going to epoxy the heads to the underside of the platform, so I can undo the nuts without the bolt spinning, not sure how I will fix the platform in as there is not much depth on the stringers to use screws, so I guess two part epoxy again. Should I start a blog as I think this may be an ongoing tale of woe😊
Thanks for the offer Paul, however I have a large amount of tools and equipment having been a service engineer, also into British motorcycles and old cars previously and had a magpie attitude to all things tools including taps and dies,helicoils and the like, I also have a boxford lathe so am capable of making the odd items when needed. Another thing I have learnt, 3mm props are available, and yes if needed I can drill and tap it to 4 BA (I have most of the BA taps and some dies) that will also save having to rip the boat apart. Yes Haverlock trying it in the bath would be a good idea, however I have a friends pond just down the road and think it may be a bit prudent to use that.😆
Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new