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    robbob
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    Member No.#3664
    Registered๐Ÿ“…24th Jan 2016
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    ๐Ÿ“ Decals
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 17 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Johnforty.
    I see that you have already ordered some stickers elsewhere but I thought you might like to know of a UK supplier that I have used for custom vinyl lettering and numbers.

    I used them for some custom lettering on my Southampton Pilot Boat and they were excellent ๐Ÿ‘.
    Decals & Stickers are based near Manchester UK.


    https://www.decalsandstickers.co.uk/shop/
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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Assembling and finishing the new monitors.
    18 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 35 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Hi Doug.
    They are indeed non-functional and are intended to be a very realistic representation of the real monitors. Adding practical features with the level of detail I have used would be difficult (for me) but not impossible for others.
    Mike Turpin (mturpin013) has produced some monitors that are operational and also have a good level of detail.
    Robbob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Assembling and finishing the new monitors.
    19 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 38 Views ยท 9 Likes ยท 3 Comments
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    My first task is to clean up the white metal castings to remove any casting marks and blemishes and to key the surface for a good paint finish.
    I have decided that the best way to assemble the monitors is to drill a 3.2mm central hole through the base part to accept a threaded rod which will then hold the top piece firmly.

    It is not possible to drill white metal as a drill bit in an electric or hand drill will very soon seize and snap, but the trick is to put a drill bit in a hand chuck and bore the hole a few turns at a time, withdrawing the bit to clear the swarf produced and then continuing.
    This is quite laborious work but it is the only way to bore a hole through white metal to any depth.

    I did fully drill through the base and to my relief the exit hole was pretty much centre of the casting and I was then able to put the upper casting in place and drill a shallow hole in the top part which was then tapped with a 3mm thread, again this tap had to be done a few turns at a time withdrawing the tap frequently to remove the swarf.

    I could then insert a 3mm threaded rod through the castings to pull the two parts together, with a nut on the bottom of the base, in a recessed hole, both with some Loctite threadlock to keep them tight.

    To add some extra detail to the monitors I used a couple of steel washers and a plastic spacer between the top and bottom parts to simulate some flanges that are on the real thing.
    The white metal casting of the operating handles is a little bit fragile but they will withstand a single bending to introduce the crank that raises the height of the handles for the operator.
    I had made the handles for the pattern in brass for strength so Iโ€™ll have to see how they fair in the much softer white metal.

    The handles are attached to the side bosses of the top hose part using some 1.2mm brass screws, again I very carefully tapped the holes that I made through the casting to get a secure fixing for the handles. The excess brass screw was cut back and the screws re-fixed with a dab of Loctite to ensure they stayed tight.

    The new fire monitor kit is actually supplied with four tiny white metal screws for attaching the handles but in my view they are unsuitable to provide any kind of firm fixing and hence my use of proper brass screws as used in my original pattern.
    Another small detail on the monitor base is an operating lever that presumably is foot operated to allow the monitor to be unlocked from a centred position and allow the monitor to be rotated to the desired direction, thatโ€™s just a guess as I really donโ€™t know the true purpose of that lever!

    I made this lever from a short length of brass rod and finished with a small round brass bead on the end. This piece was bent to the correct shape and then epoxied into a hole drilled into the underside if the base.

    A side-by-side comparison of the old and new monitors was satisfying to see as the new pattern looks so much more true to the real ones.
    With the monitors fully assembled I cleaned them thoroughly with some panel wipe to remove any grease or contaminants and then gave them a light coat of primer.
    I had some etch primer to hand so I used that although I donโ€™t think itโ€™s particularly effective on white metal.

    The final cots of red acrylic were applied and then some black to simulate the hand grips and finally some โ€˜bronzeโ€™ acrylic for the nozzle at the end of the hose.

    When fitted to the boat the monitors look so much more realistic, I hope you would agree?

    Vintage Model Works are also introducing some other new fitting for their 46โ€ RAF Crash Rescue Tender to replace older designs and Iโ€™ll post some pictures of them in another update.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Building Veron Marlin
    19 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 5 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Hi Jon.
    I've no doubt that you have overcome your issue with the bottom skin fitting by now.
    If it's helpful to know how I tackled it, I used my sanding 'plate' to sand all of the formers and the keel until they were completely flat so that the bottom skins could be fitted to butt together along the centre line of the keel.

    Some careful trimming and bevelling of the skins was required but the result was a very close fit, and a good flat and even fit of the skins to the keel and formers.

    I will be posting my own build blog of my VMW Marlin very soon, I started the build in March 2022 and it's still not finished but a lot has happened in between then and now!
    Robbob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: New Fire Monitors, making the pattern.
    29 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 51 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi Stephen.
    The original fire monitors in pics 4 & 5 are more like representations of the real thing with more regard to sturdiness and practical construction and less regard to accuracy.
    My new pattern is more realistic and true to scale but possibly not as robust the old 'clumsy' design.
    White metal castings are very heavy and the alloy is rather weak so ideally they should be cast in something stronger like bronze or perhaps even 3D metal printed but then the cost of production may make them too expensive.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Brave borderer
    30 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 67 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    A superb looking model and one that is on my personal 'wish list' to make one day. I did once buy a Precedent K D Perkasa kit from eBay but the quality of the ply and balsa parts was so bad that I sold it on.
    I expect the film was of great use when detailing your model. I found some similar newsreel film of the RAF Crash Rescue Tenders incredibly useful when adding scale details.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: New Fire Monitors, making the pattern.
    30 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 58 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Thanks for your kind words Stephen.
    I think the finished pattern looks so much more authentic than the old one which was quite crude by comparison.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: New Fire Monitors, making the pattern.
    30 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 59 Views ยท 7 Likes
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    Hi Pete.
    I can usually get by with my 'drill chuck' lathe, but for anything requiring precision I get my brother to turn it on his lathe. I did contemplate getting a small Warco lathe when one came up for sale in my model club but I really don't have room for one in my small workshop.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ New Fire Monitors, making the pattern.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 62 Views ยท 13 Likes ยท 6 Comments
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    Some while ago I was asked by Vintage Model Works to make new patterns for the fire monitors which are quite characteristic to the RAF Crash Rescue Tender. The current type supplied with the VMW kits are based on a very old pattern from the early days of the model when it was produced by AeroKits many years ago.

    I took this as a great honour to be asked and I set about finding as many photographic references, original drawing and early film of the boats in action.

    Of particular use was a video from film taken by Pathรฉ, a newsreel company, when the boats were demonstrated to the public, and one sequence showed the fire monitors in action and some very usable detail of the construction and scale.

    Having gathered as much detail as I could find I made some scale drawings of the monitors as I perceived them and worked out, as best as possible, the correct scale for the 46โ€ model.

    As I donโ€™t have any metal turning experience or equipment I decided that the best material to use for the new patterns was plastic, particularly as some of the parts would need to be heat formed.

    I made up a small wood former around which I could bend heated Plasticard rod around to form the distinctive curved shape of the top of the monitor.
    This took multiple attempts until I made a satisfactory shape which will still need some filing and shaping to refine it.

    With the hardest part out of the way the remainder of the pattern was relatively easy to make by โ€˜turningโ€™ the rest of the parts for the body and the base in an electric drill chuck against some files and abrasives.
    Small details were easy to add such as the reinforcing fillets between the circular flanges and the main pillar and also bolt heads which were made from short sections of hexagonal plastic rod. I added some blocks to the curved part to form the mounting base of the operating handles.

    The operating handles themselves were made from some 'D' profile brass rod and they attach to the body of the fire monitor with very fine brass 1.5mm screws.

    Once I was happy with the final result I supplied the pattern to VMW for approval.

    Sometime later I was sent some samples of the white metal castings to evaluate and to my delight they had turned out quite well with a minimal amount of flashing to file away.
    Remarkably they had even made white metal casting of the screws however I don't think they will be strong enough to be used to fix the handles to the monitors.

    Next partโ€ฆ.assembling and finishing the new monitors.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: CENTERING SERVO
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 59 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    I'm pleased that you found it helpful ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: CENTERING SERVOS
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 60 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi Ross.
    There are some YouTube videos that show how the spring is fitted, this is just one of several:


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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: A Fan for the Motor
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 83 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi Doug.

    "BTW: I guess you can wrap a coil round an Inrunner brushless."

    You know what, ๐Ÿค” I'd forgotten all about the In-Runner variety of brushless motor.
    They often have a water cooling jacket built in but I've seldom seen them used.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: A Fan for the Motor
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 84 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi Isaac.
    Thanks for your comments, you make some interesting suggestions but in my view none are really practical in this particular situation.

    The point of mounting the fan blade directly on the motor is that involved nothing more than fitting it to the end of the motor and while the motor is running, in either direction it is creating airflow around and more importantly, through the motor. Thus the motor is self cooling.
    I'm not sure how it could generate more heat than it removes ๐Ÿค”
    The motor compartment is very capacious and also vents to adjoining compartments.

    You can't water cool a brushless motor, but you can use a water cooled mounting but that's even more weight, plumbing pipes etc.

    The speed controller is already water cooled anyway so nothing more can be improve that.

    Consider the positives, no fan mounting structure is needed, no wiring is required, no battery or power supply is needed, all of which involve a cost and more complexity than is really warranted.

    The fan was ex-computer power supply, it was not working and had a noisy bearing when it was, so no cost implications at all.

    I can't think of any valid negatives.

    The KISS principle is well applied in what I have done here.

    As I said in the blog, it cost me nothing to do, it adds nothing to the weight of the boat or affects it's trim requiring corrective ballast etc. but it certainly seems to stir
    up a lot of hot air! ๐Ÿ˜‰

    For your boat with three large brushed motors and no space for motor cooling coils I would agree that motorised fan cooling may well be your best option ๐Ÿ‘.

    Kind Regards.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ A Fan for the Motor
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 86 Views ยท 15 Likes ยท 12 Comments
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    The motor compartment in the boat is quite large and thus a reasonable volume of air surrounds the motor and despite never having any motor overheating issues previously I did decide to add a fan onto the end of the motor shaft to introduce a bit of air circulation.

    This is something that I did on my VMW Thames River Police Launch where the motor is enclosed in quite a small box and benefited from the forced ventilation. Itโ€™s not that the Crash Tender really needs it, but more that I have another small computer fan of the right size and that it is so easy to do!

    Disassembling the fan is quite brutal but necessary to extract the fan blade in one piece. A hole was then made through the fan at dead centre to the exact diameter of the spigot at the end of the motor using a reamer. The Turnigy Aerodrive motor comes supplied with some extra metal parts for attaching an aero propeller when the motor is used in an aircraft.

    The piece is easily re-purposed by cutting off the threaded stud and grinding/sanding the face to a flat and smooth finish, and then it's fitted over the spigot on the end of the motor and secured with the three cap screws which are also supplied with the motor.

    I operation the fan is either pushing or pulling air through the motor and stator depending on the direction of rotation, and in either event it is stirring the air in the motor compartment.

    This mod seems to add no extra load on the motor, no additional bearing strain, no extra noise and if youโ€™ve got the bits, no cost!

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: New Electrics
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 93 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi luckyduck.
    Thanks for your compliment on my wiring ๐Ÿ˜Š, professional pride would have me do nothing less than that.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: CENTERING SERVOS
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 61 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    I have added a self centering spring to my Turnigy(FlySky) i6 transmitter on the throttle stick.
    Quite easy to do and the parts are cheap.
    What transmitter do you have?



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    ๐Ÿ“ New Electrics
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 97 Views ยท 16 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    The new LiPo batteries are not supplied with any type of connector, so that the user can supply and fit whatever they prefer to use. In my case it was XT60 for all the battery connections but for this refurb I chose to upgrade them all to XT90 to allow for higher discharge rates.
    Fortunately I already had sufficient XT90 connector sets in my โ€˜electrical bits boxโ€™ and I soldered these onto the new LiPo batteries, using extreme care to avoid shorts and heat shrink sleeve to insulate the connections.

    As the old NiMh batteries were arranged in a series connection I had to modify the cable loom for the single battery connection and re-terminate the fly lead to the battery with an XT90 connector.
    I have left the in-board charging facility unchanged as that would require a quite unnecessary change to the entire wiring loom and switch panel. I will be charging the new LiPo batteries, in a fireproof charging 'pouch', on the workbench for safety.

    Because the receiver will now be powered from the BEC in the speed controller I have put the (red) 5v supply line of the speed controller back into its 3 pin connector so that the receiver is powered from the speed controller. Whilst I remembered, I dug out the programming card for the controller to set the speed controller for LiPo operation and also set the battery cut-off voltage accordingly.

    The receiver was then fixed to the side of the compartment with some cable ties and all of the servo wires tidied up with cable clips, the two receiver aerials were also re-fixed in the recommended 90 degree polarisation and also secured with some clips.

    The small โ€˜platformโ€™ that I had the old receiver battery mounted on is an ideal place for a battery voltage alarm which is a very useful thing to have with a LiPo battery system, the audible warning is very loud and can be heard quite well even when the boat is running at speed and a vital prompt to bring the boat in for a battery swap.

    With all of the wiring in place I was able to test the system for full operation and it all worked perfectly. Previously I had to remember to switch on the receiver battery supply before turning on the main power switch, now it is all powered up by the main switch alone.

    ๐Ÿ“ St.Albans (Verulamium) Model Boating Lake.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 31 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Model boating lake used by the St.Albans & District Model Engineering Society.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fibreglassing a wooden hull
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 49 Views ยท 7 Likes
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    Hi Roy.
    I have successfully used Halfords acrylic car paints over the epoxy resins that I have used, I can't vouch for any others but it's unlikely to be a problem with any kind of paint.
    I bought my initial supplies of glasscloth and resin from Easy Composites and they do actually sell a range of coloured and metallic pigments that can be used with their resins. I've never thought to try them though.
    Rob.


    https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/culr-epoxy-pigments-starter-set
    ๐Ÿ“ Fibreglassing a wooden hull
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 49 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi Roy.
    Yes, I always wet & dry sand after each coat of epoxy. On my hulls there are usually at least two coats on top of the base layer with the glasscloth. And I use a progressively finer grade each time.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Making room
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 105 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi Isaac.
    Oooops...sorry...my bad!
    Your'e quite correct.
    Yes, I meant a 5S pack.
    In this case it's a 35C/65C burst rated pack and under full throttle it does run frighteningly fast but is still remarkably stable even when turning at high speed.
    Rob.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Fibreglassing a wooden hull
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 48 Views ยท 8 Likes
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    All of the suggestions so far are perfectly suitable ๐Ÿ‘
    In answer to Roy's comment about my own method here's an extract from the build blog of my SLEC pilot boat regarding the fibreglassing of the wooden hull...

    "My preferred method is to apply a coat of resin over the hull and then gently lay the cloth into the resin and then lightly brushing from the centre of the cloth outwards without applying any additional resin, this ensures that the cloth settles into the resin and any creases or bumps are easily brushed out.

    I applied the glassfibre cloth in five stages starting with one side of the bottom of the hull and when set continuing with the other four faces of the hull the last being the transom. This process usually takes a few days but the resulting cloth and resin surface is free from ripples and bubbles and I can then give the whole hull a light sanding to flatten the surfaces.

    Previously I have used additional coats of the EasyComposites resin but on this occasion I used Z-Poxy Finishing Resin because the cure time is about four hours which means that I was able to apply a second coat of resin over the entire hull, again in five stages over the course of a single day. I have found the Z-Poxy finishing resin far less susceptible to producing streaks and โ€˜fish eyeโ€™ blemishes in the surface, but I still clean over the entire area with fast evaporating โ€˜panel wipeโ€™ to remove any last traces of silicones or oils from my hands and fingers.

    After leaving the resin to cure completely overnight I was able to sand the entire hull with a 480 grit โ€˜wet & dryโ€™ abrasive paper used wet to flatten the epoxy to a fine finish".

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Making room
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 107 Views ยท 7 Likes
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    Hello Isaac.
    At 47" length and 13" beam it is a big and heavy boat!
    The 5C LiPo is not uncommon and the chosen battery is ideally suited and in this instance a single LiPo can easily do the same job as two of the old NiMh batteries.
    The first sailing with the new batteries was very impressive !!
    Kind Regards.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Making room
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 110 Views ยท 15 Likes ยท 4 Comments
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    As the battery/receiver compartment was already quite crowded I decided to do away with the separate receiver battery, switch and voltage meter. The receiver would now be powered by the BEC in the speed controller. The power meter was also removed as it was seldom used to log any power parameters and it just overcomplicated the wiring loom.

    The first job was to modify the battery cradles and Velcro securing straps and to remove the receiver and its associated power switch and battery voltage indicator, and also the cable loom and cooling pipe support bar that would make it difficult to put the new batteries in the hull.

    After removing all of the plumbing and wiring the support bar was cut away from the bulkhead with a fine tooth saw and the other end removed from the rudder servo compartment too. Both holes were cleaned up and painted with silver Hammerite to seal the plywood and then a 20mm rubber grommet fitted into each of the old holes hole to seal the compartments. I then had to use my right-angle drill attachment to get a step drill into the hull to make new holes for the wiring and plumbing. These were also painted to seal the ply.

    With the support bar out of the way I could then put back all of the servo wiring to the receiver. As I had drilled the new holes through the bulkheads quite high up I was able to tuck the servo wiring up and out of the way of the new batteries, some needed extending as I had to reposition the receiver, and I also used some new silicone tubing for the cooling pipes as they were both slightly too short after re-routing them.

    After some other mods to the battery support bars and some new Velcro retaining straps both of the batteries fitted nicely into the compartment with relative ease.
    Easy removal of the batteries is important as I will not be charging these new packs in-situ, although I have retained the in-board charging facility.

    Next upโ€ฆa bit of re-wiring and motor cooling.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Batteries, old & new.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 115 Views ยท 10 Likes
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    Hi Alan.
    Good to hear from you.
    I hope you and Mike C are keeping well.

    I have indeed reprogrammed the ESC for LiPo operation and I ran the boat for it's maiden voyage on the new batteries at the Model Boat Mayhem event at Wicksteed Park in May this year. The difference in performance is amazing.
    I have also added a fan on the motor shaft for forced cooling, which may not really be necessary but it was so easy to do whilst the boat was on the bench.

    I'll also be covering the new fire monitors in the refurb too which look excellent and so much more true to life! And making mention of the new hoses and fittings that are available from VMW.

    See the pic for a preview of the new monitors, old style alongside the new version!! ๐Ÿ˜

    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: My 46" RAF Crash Tender, Some much needed refurbishment!
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
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    Hello Duncan.
    Yes, I do try to keep clean and tidy workshop, my wife says that I should be just as fastidious in the house too! ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿ˜‚

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: My 46" RAF Crash Tender, Some much needed refurbishment!
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 117 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi Pete.
    Thanks.
    I'ts laid out very much like my old workshop so it feels very familiar.
    Sadly no room for the spray booth that I had in the old one thoughโ˜น๏ธ but that took up a lot of space.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: My 46" RAF Crash Tender, Some much needed refurbishment!
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 119 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Hi Doug.
    Kind words.
    Thanks.๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: My 46" RAF Crash Tender, Some much needed refurbishment!
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 121 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Thank you Herman.
    I promised myself that I would build a better workshop than my old one...and I think it has worked out quite well ๐Ÿ˜
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Batteries, old & new.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 121 Views ยท 14 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    On the last outing of my crash tender the run time from a fully charged set of NiMh batteries was very short and I had to bring the boat in after only a few laps of the lake. I changed the batteries over to my second pair and tried for another run but the performance of the boat was similarly disappointing.

    Those NiMh batteries are now about 8 years old and despite regular maintenance charges are clearly not capable of delivering the power required for the boat to perform as it has previously.

    Itโ€™s clear that the batteries are in need of replacement and it is also a good opportunity to move to a better battery chemistry. The obvious choice is LiPo and so I began by finding a battery of the right voltage, capacity and most importantly, size.
    The old NiMh batteries were 9.6 volts each and wired in series to give a 19.2 v supply and they were placed either side of the prop shaft to give the correct balance, however I was confident that a single LiPo would easily do the job of the two old batteries but to maintain the balance of the boat I would either need to make up a dummy battery of equivalent size and weight to maintain the equilibrium or put in two new batteries.

    I decided that the simplest, although more costly, way to proceed was to have a second battery in the hull that I could change over to when required.

    My research turned up a suitable battery pack made by Overlander, a 5C LiPo at 18.5 V and 5000mAh capacity, and not only was it almost a similar size it was also a very close equivalent weight to the old NiMh pack. However I would need to make some alterations to the battery compartment to accommodate the difference in height of the LiPo packs.

    As one single new battery was more than adequate to run the boat it meant that I could retain the existing wiring harness without modification as I did not want to have to incorporate any kind of changeover switch to facilitate a battery change, I would simply do it as a plug swap.

    I purchased the new batteries from my local model shop. Yes, I do have one nearby Iโ€™m pleased to say!
    Alโ€™s Hobbies in Volverton, Milton Keynes is quite close to my new home and itโ€™s a delight to go there to feast on the aroma of a traditional model shop.

    Older readers will know to what I am referring to!

    With the batteries back in the workshop I was able to make some true comparisons between the old and the new packs to confirm their suitability.

    In the pictures you can see the battery compartment with the NiMh battery supports and Velcro retaining straps that will need modification.

    Also the comparative size and weight of the old and new batteries and some wiring and cooling โ€˜plumbingโ€™ that will have to be removed to make way for the new battery set.

    OK...time to get some tools out ๐Ÿ˜



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