Members Harbour
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Harbour Pilots Boat
Built from a kit produced by SLEC from an original Lesro design.
Construction started in March 2020....completed March 2021.
robbob
6 years ago
8 Attributes
1 Photo
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Thames River Police Launch
Constructed from a kit by Vintage Model Works, based on a design by Phil Smith for Veron, started June 2018. (Motor: Turnigy 3548 outrunner) (ESC: Turnigy 30A watercooled) (8/10).
Completed August 2019.
robbob
8 years ago
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1 Photo
5 Likes
46" RAF Crash Rescue Tender
Construction started May 2016....completed June 2017. (Motor: Turnigy SK3 4250-500) (ESC: Turnigy 90A watercooled) (9/10)
Refurbished July 2024. New LiPo battery system, motor cooling and re-designed fire monitors.
robbob
9 years ago
7 Attributes
Members Blogs
33 Posts
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The VMW Marlin Cabin Cruiser by Robbob
The VMW Marlin Cabin Cruiser by Robbob
Preface.
At the time of writing, Iโve had the construction of this boat on โthe back burnerโ since July 2022. By then I had spent about two months on and off constructing the boat to a stage where I could consider applying a glassfibre cloth and epoxy finish to the hull. However I couldnโt spend any more time on the Marlin project as I had a more important project to undertake, which was to paint, decorate, refurbish and prepare our house for sale so that we could downsize and move to a new area now that our kids had all fled the nest.
Fast forward to today (mid-April 2025) and itโs taken a while to get the new house and gardens into shape and settle in, with the emphasis on converting my internal garage into a great new workshop, I can finally pick up from where I left off.
Introduction to the kit.
This new model is the latest undertaking by Vintage Model Works, now famous for their very popular models of the RAF Crash Rescue Tender and Thames River Police Boat kits which are based on old Aerokits and Veron designs.
The Marlin is a re-working of an original Veron design by the late Phil Smith in 1953. His son Colin Smith, who was also responsible for the re-design of the Thames River Police Boat, has made some changes to his fatherโs design to take advantage of more modern materials and production methods such as CNC and laser cutting.
The photograph below is of a prototype built by Colin Smith to give you an idea of how the boat looks in finished form. And there is also a review of the Marlin that appeared in Model Maker magazine, November 1953.
The size remains at 36โ and it employs the same construction method as the original. The spacious cabins of the boat makes it very easy to accommodate all the latest control hardware required, not that the original was lacking in that area even when the radio systems used valves and large batteries and the propulsion was usually IC or a large electric motor.
Even the pre-production sample the Vintage Model Works kit supplied to me is well presented with a full size drawing including a pictorial construction sequence and separate pages of building instructions.
All the required materials are supplied in quality ply, balsa, strip-wood and dowel including clear plastic sheets for the windscreens, and various white metal deck fittings. The builder is of course required to supply their own adhesives and paint of choice, as well as the propulsion, drive train and radio control gear. In the latter respect I will likely restrict control to throttle and rudder and not add any lighting or other features. That has already been done magnificently by Mike Turpin.
Construction.
As with the Thames river police boat, another Veron design, construction starts with the assembly of a box structure onto which formers and bulkheads are attached to make the basic hull shape.
I will be tackling this in the first part of my build blog which I hope you will enjoy following and I encourage you to ask questions, leave comments and hopefully some โlikesโ as I make progress.
Robbob.
robbob
5 days ago
55 Posts
27 Followers
724 Likes
SLEC Harbour Pilots Boat by Robbob
Itโs been a while since I built my last model boat, a Thames River Police Launch and prior to that my RAF Crash Rescue Tender and I thought Iโd better get something on the go pretty soon or Iโll have nothing new to show at the club exhibition in September.
While I was visiting the Warwick International Model Boat Show in November last year I spotted a new model by SLEC of a Harbour Pilots Boat, due for release in Spring 2020.
A quick โphone call to them confirmed that it was now available and so I decided to buy the kit and start building it to keep me occupied during the enforced isolation we all find ourselves in at the present.
The kit arrived the following day, very safely packaged in a strong carton, and after opening the box and quickly checking the contents I took out the supplied Building Instruction and Picture Instruction manuals and studied them both at length to familiarise myself with the construction sequence.
Anyone that is familiar with the old Aerokits/Keil Kraft model boats will recognise their characteristic โegg crateโ method of construction and this model is a re-working of one such design by Ian Hull for SLEC.
Fortunately I have all the required tools, adhesives and other materials in the workshop including a 10โ propshaft and 40mm 2 blade prop that I bought in error for a previous model and so I can make an immediate start. Iโll still need to buy in a receiver, servo, rudder, brushless motor and speed controller and a couple of LiPo batteries at some point but I certainly have all I need to make a start on the build.
All of the plywood parts are CNC router or laser cut and many of the parts lock firmly together with tabs and slots that are already quite a good fit, but however fine the router bit is it canโt produce a sharp 90 degree cut so the first thing the instructions tell you is that you should use a small square file or a sharp knife to square all the internal corner cuts to ensure a proper snug fit.
Construction starts with the assembly of the main keel, first bulkhead and the two small parts K2 that lock it together. At this point Iโm dry-fitting the parts to ensure that it all slots together correctly. Itโs here that a small improvement could be made by re-designing the two smaller parts so that the tabs that slot into the main keel K1 are staggered rather than meet at the same point as the existing slot is long enough. Easily fixed by amending the CNC files but for now it can be fixed by filing each tab to half its length, but Iโll pass on the suggestion to SLEC.
The remaining bulkheads are slotted onto the keel and the two long beams are slotted in at deck level to lock it all together.
When I was happy that all was well I took it apart and re-assembled it all using a waterproof aliphatic PVA glue and a few clamps to hold it all together while the glue sets. A try square was used to check the assembly for square.
In the next part Iโll be fitting the strakes and additional keel parts and constructing the base of the superstructure.
robbob
5 years ago
46 Posts
18 Followers
668 Likes
36" Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
After the successful build of the โVintage Model Worksโ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production.
The model is a โThames River Police Launchโ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50โs and 60โs and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately ยฃ2.15 in todayโs money but an equivalent cost of ยฃ48.50 in 1960.
This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36โ in length where the original was 24โ which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more โhiding roomโ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring.
The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision.
The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive!
The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too.
The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as โstrakesโ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo.
During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone โoff planโ to any extent.
The pictures show the model in itโs present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
robbob
7 years ago
105 Posts
41 Followers
1218 Likes
Vintage Model Works 46" RAF Crash Tender
Here's the history bit so pay attention...
Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice.
Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat.
The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed.
So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times.
I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction.
Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing.
My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project.
And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control.
The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for ยฃ20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me.
The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!).
By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep.
So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger.
The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor.
What an improvement that was!
I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control.
The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio.
I decided to sell the boat and bits for ยฃ60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio.
We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production.
Fast forward to today.
Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'.
It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand.
This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
robbob
12 months ago
Recent Posts
๐ฌ Re: Fitting the Bottom Skins.
4 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Since posting this progress update in my blog and asking:
"Does anybody know where I can buy a metal version of the plastic push pins that many of us seem to use? There are also metallic silver finished plastic ones out there which will, of course, be no better! Can anyone suggest a supplier ?"
UPDATE.
I have found some on Amazon, and they were delivered today, not cheap I'm afraid but they should be easier to use and remove without the heads breaking, which is the main problem with the plastic ones. Hopefully they'll last longer than the plastic ones and earn their keep!
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000VA3IEO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 |
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๐ Water cooling plumbing & rudder
5 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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The speed controller Iโm using for the Marlin has some water-cooling connections and, as with my other boats, Iโll be utilising them with the addition of a water pickup just behind the propeller and a water exhaust on the stern.
Although Iโve used commercially available fittings in the past, I much prefer to make my own, or to be more truthful, have some of the components made for me that are beyond my workshop resources, with which I can complete the fittings.
To my advantage, I have a brother with a lathe who, when supplied with an engineering drawing, will turn any brass parts that I need.
The brass flanges that he turned will seat against the hull to give a neat finish to the fittings.
I annealed some 6mm O.D brass tube and used a bending spring to form a 90-degree bend and then trimmed this to form the โmouthโ of the pickup. After a trial fit to determine the correct external length, I soft soldered the flange to the brass tube. Similarly, I soft soldered the flange onto a piece of brass tube for the exhaust.
After a clean-up with some wire wool, I epoxied the pickup in place in the already drilled hole through the keel so that the pickup would be directly in the wash from the propeller.
Previously when building the hull at the stern, and before fitting the stern ply skin, I fitted an extra block of balsa to give internal support to the brass tube. I used a hand drill to pierce the stern through this block at a suitable height above the likely waterline and then epoxied this fitting in place.
Internally there is sufficient tube to make the silicone water cooling pipe connections, which I always secure with a spring clip retainer. The silicone tubing will run to and from these connection in the pre-installed โconduitsโ , as seen in the first picture, that run from the stern compartment to the cabin compartment where the ESC will be located.
The rudder tube can also be epoxied in place now and then the hull is largely ready for the first part of the painting process.
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๐ฌ Re: Fire monitor, rotary water connection
5 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Kevin.
That appears to work really well, the most practical solution I've ever seen, well done๐๐
Perhaps you could describe how the rotating water seal was made?
Thanks.
Rob.
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๐ฌ Re: The Motor & Prop shaft.
9 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Chris F.
I only use an approved 'model boat' grease for prop-shaft lubrication, much akin to water pump grease, it's acts as much to form a water seal as acting as a lubricant.
Unlike heavy automotive grease it seems to add little or no noticeable drag at all to the shaft rotation.
The only problem I've noticed is a bit of 'rotational splatter', for the want of a better description, at the inboard end of the tube, and I certainly
haven't had any water ingress.
Bear in mind that the tube has a close fitting phosphor bronze bearing at each end, which should be self lubricating, and in conjunction with the thrust washers form a good water seal too.
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๐ฌ Re: The Motor & Prop shaft.
12 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi chugalone100, thanks for your kind comments.
The motor couplings are commercially available from a UK supplier, ModelBoatBits.
They will also make custom prop-shafts and couplings to order, which is very handy.
I've used this company many times for such things.
I've used the motor fan trick on all of my boat builds, it's cost neutral and a great form of upcycling too!
Although in some of the comments in another of my blogs it proved to be a controversial method of motor cooling on the grounds of efficacy and thermodynamic performance, and mad suggestions that I would get better results with a separate motor and fan along with it's required electrical supply etc etc. ๐ฎ ๐คฃ
I dismissed all of that on the grounds that that my idea was an extremely practical, and cost free solution that required nothing more than lateral thinking, an old busted computer fan and a bit of effort! ๐
| https://www.modelboatbits.com/ |
| https://www.modelboatbits.com/RC-Model-Motor-Coupling/ |
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๐ The Motor & Prop shaft.
12 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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At this stage I need to do the final alignment of the brushless motor, coupling and prop-shaft.
The motor mount is just a regular glass reinforced plastic mount from ModelBoatBits for a M500/600 motor. The motor is an Overlander T3548/05 as recommended by VMW and the shaft is a 7โ Maxidrive also from ModelBoatBits.
I made the motor mount wedge from a Beech block that is set, as near as possible, to the angle of the prop-shaft outer tube the and this is simply screwed down to the floor of the well deck with some brass screws. The plastic motor mount is screwed down onto this block.
I had previously ground a flat onto the motor shaft so that the set screw of the coupling would seat onto the shaft without fear of the coupling working loose.
The alignment of the motor shaft and prop-shaft inner is set by using a temporary rigid coupling, of the same length as the flexible coupling, to get the alignment straight and true.
The shaft tube was then glued in place using some 30 minute Z-Poxy. Some masking tape around the tube hole ensured that the epoxy didnโt spill over onto my nicely finished floor!
When set the rigid coupling was removed and replaced with the flexible coupling with the thrust washers in place and the propeller fitted at the outboard end. I wonโt fill the tube with grease until all of the painting of the hull is finished.
As with some other of my models I fitted an old computer cooling fan to the end of the motor so that when the motor is enclosed in a ventilated box there will be a forced airflow to help cool the motor, whether it needs it or not. The 40mm fan blade is retained by an accessory mounting piece that is supplied with the motor from which I have cut and ground away the mounting shaft. The four screws, also supplied, fix this fan retainer to the motor end through the four machined holes in the rotor face of the end of the outrunner motor.
Iโll need to fit the water pickup and exhaust for the ESC cooling, along with the rudder tube, to the hull as the last stage before I can start spray painting the hull.
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๐ Fitting the Well Deck Floor and Side Panels.
20 days ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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I finished the walls and floor area of what will be the cabin interior with several coats of Eze-Kote, which is a water-based finishing that dries very quickly and is very suited to sealing the woodgrain, but unlike sanding sealer, has no strong smell.
It makes for a very suitable surface for paint too after lightly rubbing down.
I'm undecided whether to paint the cabin interior as it will not really be seen as it will enclose the battery, power switch and R/C components etc.
Meanwhile, the well deck floor panel now has a lovely high gloss epoxy finish and is ready to be glued down over the structural floor.
I used some aliphatic glue for this, spread evenly by brush on both surfaces and then clamped down using some MDF offcuts held down by some woodscrews through the motor mounting hole and the prop-shaft hole. This ensured that it would be bonded very well and be very flat.
Once dried I could then fix the small painted panel to the wall at the end of the deck and then the two painted side panels. All were glued with aliphatic and clamped in place using some scrap MDF pieces to spread the load of the clamps and some soft cardboard to protect the painted surfaces.
It would be a shame to spoil them at this stage!
I can now consider doing the final alignment of the motor and prop-shaft using a rigid coupling and then fixing the shaft tube through the hull with epoxy resin.
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๐ฌ Re: Painting the Well Deck.
1 month ago by
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Hi Phil.
The sET (sprayEjecting Tent), came from planet YaBe and materialised on my doorstep from a big red mothership that accelerated away at unearthly speed, and very nearly ran over my neighbours cat. ๐คฃ
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๐ Painting the Well Deck.
1 month ago by
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๐ The tools/equipment of the ship modeler.
2 months ago by
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A temporary Spray Booth.
I thought I'd include this item in this thread as it has, for me, proved to be a very good substitute for a permanent spray booth with the advantage that it can be used indoors rather than outdoors without fear of contamination in the finish (usually flies!) and messy overspray.
In my old garage/workshop I was able to construct a spraying booth on an old pasting table with a framework of wooden battens and a covering of cardboard sheets. I also installed an extractor fan and LED lighting and an old shower curtain to enclose me when working within the booth. A turntable within made turning the workpiece very easy and I managed to achieve some impressive paint finishes on my models in relative comfort and warmth.
All of that was dismantled when I moved house but it was impractical to re-install it in my new workshop, and the little spraying that I did do in the new garage, on some garden furniture, resulted in a vast amount of overspray on every horizontal surface in my lovely new workshop.
Clearly this was not what I wanted to contend with when spray painting my latest model boat project.
The solution I found was a simple but effective โspray tentโ that is remarkably inexpensive, easy to erect and dismantle for storage.
I did have to choose one of the smaller versions of this tent so that it would fit the available width in my workshop but this is still sufficiently big enough to stand within, (wearing a suitable respirator of course!), and with the โdoorโ zipped up to enclose me fully, to apply spray paint whilst confining all of the overspray and dust within the tent.
And being within a heated, ventilated and draft free workshop I could control the ambient temperature and happily โspray awayโ without concerns of mess that overspray can make.
The tent I bought from eBay was only ยฃ17.99 at that time (October 2025) but the price has now gone up to ยฃ21.59 (with free delivery, but currently out of stock!) a price which I still think is not unreasonable.
For anyone interested, I've added a link to my build blog which includes the making of my spray booth:
| https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375612958605 |
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๐ฌ Re: Finishing the Decks with Epoxy Resin.
2 months ago by
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Hi Pete.
The product description says a pot life of 20-30 minutes, hardening after 3 hours and is sandable after 6 hours.
In practice I have found it hardened in 2 hours and I'm able to sand it after 5 hours but if there's no rush I much prefer to leave it overnight before any sanding and re-coating.
The addition of 25% IPA in the first coat seems to harden and cure in much the same time with no ill effect.
Previously I was using 'Easy Composites' cloth, resin & hardener but that always had a very extended hardening and curing time that made the process so much more time consuming.
And despite cleaning surfaces with panel wipe, which I also still do with the Z-Poxy resin, I would often find 'fish eyes' in the finish that were always difficult to rectify after curing. Thankfully this never occurs with Z-Pozy finishing resin.
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๐ Finishing the Decks with Epoxy Resin.
2 months ago by
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๐ The Forward Deck, Adding More Detail.
2 months ago by
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๐ Making the Rear Hatch
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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When I planked the rear deck area, I deliberately covered over the hole that I had made previously for the servo and rudder access hatch just to make application of the planking quicker and easier.
This now needs to be cut out to reveal the hole so that I can form a proper hatch which was easily done using a Dremel routing bit and finishing with sharp craft knife and files.
I applied several strips of clear packing tape over the rear deck to protect the newly planked surface and cut an oversize piece of 1.5mm ply for the hatch cover.
As I want this cover to have the same curvature as the deck itself, I heated and bent the piece to the same curve as the rear deck and I applied the planking and plasticard โcaulkingโ to this panel whilst it was curved.
I formed the coaming around the deck aperture from some obeche strips, making several shallow cuts using a razor saw to help them bend, to ensure that they also followed the deck curvature. I then formed a corresponding frame on the underside of the planked panel so that it mated with the deck coaming without too tight a fit to allow for surface finishing.
The planking was then trimmed off around the panel and some โcaulkingโ and mahogany border strips fitted around it to complete the hatch cover. The caulking was trimmed back and the hatch given a thorough sanding in readiness for finishing.
Later I will be fitting some small neodymium magnets in the coaming and the hatch cover to secure the hatch firmly in place.
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๐ฌ Re: Fitting a Mahogany Gunwale.
2 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Ronald.
"Are you using veneer?"
No it's not veneer which is usually very much thinner than the 1.5mm limewood planks and 1.6mm mahogany strip that I'm using.
The final finish will be several coats of Z-Poxy Finishing Resin which certainly does bring out the grain and colour of the wood๐.
Rob.
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๐ Fitting a Mahogany Gunwale.
3 months ago by
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๐ Tools
3 months ago by
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๐ Planking the Deck. Part 3.
3 months ago by
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Happy New Year to everybody, I hope you all had a fun but relaxing time over the festive period! ๐
Now...onwards with the VMW Marlin kit that's taken far too long to get its current state ๐ฎ.
I continued with the planking on the side decks from the transition point and then started on the rear deck, the process is really quite quick and easy once you get into a rhythm and the lime planking is very easy to work with. I ordered more than enough of this from the supplier (SLEC) to easily cover the required areas with enough in reserve for any future decking needs too. The mahogany sheets for the contrasting detail came from the same source.
For the rear deck I decided to apply the planking over the hatch aperture rather than fit fiddly little pieces on either side of it with a view to opening up the hatch afterwards.
The angle transition of the side decks looks, in my view, pretty good and was certainly a better way to continue the planking along the sides.
I took a very sharp chisel to the entire deck area to pare back the black plasticard โcaulkingโ lines.
Iโll give the decks a final trim around the lower deck areas where they overlap the edges and then give the whole deck a thorough sanding later on, but the next job will be to form some mahogany strips to use around the deck on the sides of the hull, these will make a nice gunwale feature and also become a good clean edge for the hull paint finish too.
Very soon I'll need to decide on a suitable colour scheme, perhaps a pale blue or green with white or cream on the hull?
A visit to Halfords (Automotive parts and paints supplier in the UK) may be in order to see what acrylic colours are available!
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๐ Planking the deck. Part 2.
3 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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๐ฌ Re: Planking the deck. Part 1.
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Mike W.
"A very enjoyable read and an excellent build blog".
Thank you for your kind comments, I'm pleased that you are enjoying reading my build blog ๐๐.
Rob
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๐ฌ Re: Re: Planking the deck. Part 1.
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Mike.
Thank you for your kind comments, I'm pleased that you are enjoying reading my blog ๐๐.
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๐ฌ Re: Fire Crash Tender
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Heners.
OK, now I understand the problems that you face ๐ค.
Good to know that the water leak is fixed though.
I think the excessive vibration you experience is because of the bad shaft alignment which will also be responsible for a great deal of power loss from the motor and possibly why the boat has insufficient power to 'plane'.
The gearbox 'thingy' you describe is totally new to me !
Rob.
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๐ฌ Re: Fire Crash Tender
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Henners.
Looking at the underside of the hull it's apparent that the prop-shaft tube is far shorter than the shaft itself so the shaft is not supported at the outboard end as it should be. This might cause the shaft to 'whip' or run with excessive movement and resulting end bearing wear. This may be why water is coming up the shaft tube, assuming that the tube is not packed with a suitable grease?
Also the alignment of the shaft with the motor isn't ideal and the use of a double coupling could be putting stress on the motor end bearing and the inboard shaft bearing too.
I can't make out what the red 'thingy', for the want of a better description, is at the inboard end of the propshaft. What is that?
The water pickup is facing backwards, which is not normal, but you don't need it anyway, but make sure it's fully blanked off internally.
In my humble opinion you need to install a new shaft of the correct length, with a new single coupling and make sure that it is all in a direct straight alignment and the shaft tube filled with a suitable marine grease.
I attach a pic of my 47" RAF Crash Rescue Tender in construction showing the motor position and alignment in my model.
I hope that is helpful.
Rob.
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๐ฌ Re: Fire Crash Tender
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi All.
Here's a video clip of the real boat running at speed and in action putting out a fire.
Rob.
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๐ฌ Re: Planking the deck. Part 1.
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Ronald.
"Are the planks of the upper decks to be the same width as the lower deck planks?"
Yes, they will also be 1.6 x 6.5mm lime wood with .5mm black caulking lines and a high gloss epoxy resin finish.
Rob.
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๐ Planking the deck. Part 1.
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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๐ฌ Re: Planking the rear lower deck.
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Hi Ronald.
"Is it possible to use a different glue if a person doesnโt tolerate CA?"
Fortunately I don't have any intolerance to CA, but I am very careful not to stick myself to anything with it!
I find it perfect for fixing the planking strips and plasticard as the 'grab' time is just right to allow placing the lime strip and pressing it firmly into place.
Similarly for the plasticard 'caulking' strips.
Its use does allow for very quickly covering the required area without needing to hold anything in place with pins, clamps or tape, as you might if you used wood glue, which wouldn't be suitable for the plastic anyway, or any other form of adhesive.
As I say, it works for me, but perhaps others could offer an alternative for those that have a reaction to CA?
Rob.
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๐ Planking the rear lower deck.
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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With all of the deck panels firmly glued in place and trimmed all round with a small hand plane I can now consider the rear lower deck floor.
As with the deck panels this is also laser etched with planking lines and at this stage of construction it would be impossible to apply my own planking and caulking lines in the deep recess.
My solution was to cut a piece of 2mm ply to form a new floor panel that I could plank as a separate panel that will be glued down over the laser etched floor. I marked out an aperture on the panel to fit around the motor mounting block.
To date this will be the largest area that I have attempted to plank and I also fear that the process will cause the panel to distort as the glues and resin finishes cure.
I began the process by marking a centre line and fixing down the 1.6mm x 6.5mm limewood strips and the .5mm black plasticard โcaulkingโ lines with superglue and working outwards symmetrically to, hopefully, minimise stresses in the panel.
I found that, although repetitive, the process was quite easy and enjoyable to do as there was no fiddly cutting and trimming of planks to perform.
Once the panel was fully covered I left it for a day or so for the glue to fully cure before trimming off the overlaps around the edges and paring the plasticard caulking down to an even surface with a sharp chisel.
I then cut out the aperture for the motor mounting block and did a test fit. A final rub down with 400 grit abrasive paper resulted in a fine finish ready for the first of several coats of epoxy finishing resin.
Thankfully at this stage there is no significant distortion of the panel so my fears were largely unfounded.
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๐ฌ Re: Fitting the deck skins
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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Ronald, Phil & Bob.
Thank you all for you generous comments on my recent blog updates. It's good to hear that the content is of interest to you ๐.
Rob.
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๐ Fitting the deck skins
4 months ago by
๐ฌ๐ง robbob (

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The deck skins in the VMW Marlin kit are laser etched with planking lines for those that are happy to use the panels as they are but, as with the lower deck floors, Iโll be applying my own planking strips with black caulking lines with some additional mahogany detailing.
The deck panels consist of seven separate pieces and are simply glued in place using some aliphatic resin. Being laser cut they all fit together very accurately.
The forward lower deck floor was covered in masking tape to protect the epoxy finish and glued in place as it will not be possible to fit this piece after the decks are fitted.
After applying some TiteBond 2 glue to the forward deck panels I pinned and clamped them in place.
I also used some packing tape to pull the skins down firmly; the packing tape is very strong under tension and is ideal for this.
The side deck pieces were fitted in the same way but I decided to re-make the piece supplied for the very rear of the deck to accommodate the hatch aperture that will give access to the rudder and servo, and also the cooling โplumbingโ.
At this stage I removed the centre support piece from the area as it doesn't really add anything to the integrity or strength to the hull and its removal gives far better access through the hatch for accessing the rudder servo etc.
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