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    robbob
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    Member No.#3664
    Registered๐Ÿ“…24th Jan 2016
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…2nd Apr 2026
    City๐Ÿ“Milton Keynes
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
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    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting the Bottom Skins.
    4 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 19 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Since posting this progress update in my blog and asking:

    "Does anybody know where I can buy a metal version of the plastic push pins that many of us seem to use? There are also metallic silver finished plastic ones out there which will, of course, be no better! Can anyone suggest a supplier ?"

    UPDATE.
    I have found some on Amazon, and they were delivered today, not cheap I'm afraid but they should be easier to use and remove without the heads breaking, which is the main problem with the plastic ones. Hopefully they'll last longer than the plastic ones and earn their keep!



    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000VA3IEO?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
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    ๐Ÿ“ Water cooling plumbing & rudder
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 36 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    The speed controller Iโ€™m using for the Marlin has some water-cooling connections and, as with my other boats, Iโ€™ll be utilising them with the addition of a water pickup just behind the propeller and a water exhaust on the stern.

    Although Iโ€™ve used commercially available fittings in the past, I much prefer to make my own, or to be more truthful, have some of the components made for me that are beyond my workshop resources, with which I can complete the fittings.

    To my advantage, I have a brother with a lathe who, when supplied with an engineering drawing, will turn any brass parts that I need.
    The brass flanges that he turned will seat against the hull to give a neat finish to the fittings.

    I annealed some 6mm O.D brass tube and used a bending spring to form a 90-degree bend and then trimmed this to form the โ€˜mouthโ€™ of the pickup. After a trial fit to determine the correct external length, I soft soldered the flange to the brass tube. Similarly, I soft soldered the flange onto a piece of brass tube for the exhaust.

    After a clean-up with some wire wool, I epoxied the pickup in place in the already drilled hole through the keel so that the pickup would be directly in the wash from the propeller.

    Previously when building the hull at the stern, and before fitting the stern ply skin, I fitted an extra block of balsa to give internal support to the brass tube. I used a hand drill to pierce the stern through this block at a suitable height above the likely waterline and then epoxied this fitting in place.

    Internally there is sufficient tube to make the silicone water cooling pipe connections, which I always secure with a spring clip retainer. The silicone tubing will run to and from these connection in the pre-installed โ€˜conduitsโ€™ , as seen in the first picture, that run from the stern compartment to the cabin compartment where the ESC will be located.

    The rudder tube can also be epoxied in place now and then the hull is largely ready for the first part of the painting process.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire monitor, rotary water connection
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 20 Views ยท 1 Like
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    Hi Kevin.
    That appears to work really well, the most practical solution I've ever seen, well done๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜€
    Perhaps you could describe how the rotating water seal was made?
    Thanks.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor & Prop shaft.
    9 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 47 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    Hi Chris F.
    I only use an approved 'model boat' grease for prop-shaft lubrication, much akin to water pump grease, it's acts as much to form a water seal as acting as a lubricant.
    Unlike heavy automotive grease it seems to add little or no noticeable drag at all to the shaft rotation.
    The only problem I've noticed is a bit of 'rotational splatter', for the want of a better description, at the inboard end of the tube, and I certainly
    haven't had any water ingress.
    Bear in mind that the tube has a close fitting phosphor bronze bearing at each end, which should be self lubricating, and in conjunction with the thrust washers form a good water seal too.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Motor & Prop shaft.
    12 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 58 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi chugalone100, thanks for your kind comments.

    The motor couplings are commercially available from a UK supplier, ModelBoatBits.
    They will also make custom prop-shafts and couplings to order, which is very handy.
    I've used this company many times for such things.

    I've used the motor fan trick on all of my boat builds, it's cost neutral and a great form of upcycling too!
    Although in some of the comments in another of my blogs it proved to be a controversial method of motor cooling on the grounds of efficacy and thermodynamic performance, and mad suggestions that I would get better results with a separate motor and fan along with it's required electrical supply etc etc. ๐Ÿ˜ฎ ๐Ÿคฃ
    I dismissed all of that on the grounds that that my idea was an extremely practical, and cost free solution that required nothing more than lateral thinking, an old busted computer fan and a bit of effort! ๐Ÿ˜Ž



    https://www.modelboatbits.com/
    https://www.modelboatbits.com/RC-Model-Motor-Coupling/
    ๐Ÿ“ The Motor & Prop shaft.
    12 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 60 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 7 Comments
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    At this stage I need to do the final alignment of the brushless motor, coupling and prop-shaft.
    The motor mount is just a regular glass reinforced plastic mount from ModelBoatBits for a M500/600 motor. The motor is an Overlander T3548/05 as recommended by VMW and the shaft is a 7โ€ Maxidrive also from ModelBoatBits.

    I made the motor mount wedge from a Beech block that is set, as near as possible, to the angle of the prop-shaft outer tube the and this is simply screwed down to the floor of the well deck with some brass screws. The plastic motor mount is screwed down onto this block.

    I had previously ground a flat onto the motor shaft so that the set screw of the coupling would seat onto the shaft without fear of the coupling working loose.
    The alignment of the motor shaft and prop-shaft inner is set by using a temporary rigid coupling, of the same length as the flexible coupling, to get the alignment straight and true.
    The shaft tube was then glued in place using some 30 minute Z-Poxy. Some masking tape around the tube hole ensured that the epoxy didnโ€™t spill over onto my nicely finished floor!

    When set the rigid coupling was removed and replaced with the flexible coupling with the thrust washers in place and the propeller fitted at the outboard end. I wonโ€™t fill the tube with grease until all of the painting of the hull is finished.

    As with some other of my models I fitted an old computer cooling fan to the end of the motor so that when the motor is enclosed in a ventilated box there will be a forced airflow to help cool the motor, whether it needs it or not. The 40mm fan blade is retained by an accessory mounting piece that is supplied with the motor from which I have cut and ground away the mounting shaft. The four screws, also supplied, fix this fan retainer to the motor end through the four machined holes in the rotor face of the end of the outrunner motor.

    Iโ€™ll need to fit the water pickup and exhaust for the ESC cooling, along with the rudder tube, to the hull as the last stage before I can start spray painting the hull.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the Well Deck Floor and Side Panels.
    20 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 70 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 1 Comment
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    I finished the walls and floor area of what will be the cabin interior with several coats of Eze-Kote, which is a water-based finishing that dries very quickly and is very suited to sealing the woodgrain, but unlike sanding sealer, has no strong smell.
    It makes for a very suitable surface for paint too after lightly rubbing down.
    I'm undecided whether to paint the cabin interior as it will not really be seen as it will enclose the battery, power switch and R/C components etc.

    Meanwhile, the well deck floor panel now has a lovely high gloss epoxy finish and is ready to be glued down over the structural floor.

    I used some aliphatic glue for this, spread evenly by brush on both surfaces and then clamped down using some MDF offcuts held down by some woodscrews through the motor mounting hole and the prop-shaft hole. This ensured that it would be bonded very well and be very flat.

    Once dried I could then fix the small painted panel to the wall at the end of the deck and then the two painted side panels. All were glued with aliphatic and clamped in place using some scrap MDF pieces to spread the load of the clamps and some soft cardboard to protect the painted surfaces.
    It would be a shame to spoil them at this stage!

    I can now consider doing the final alignment of the motor and prop-shaft using a rigid coupling and then fixing the shaft tube through the hull with epoxy resin.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Painting the Well Deck.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 73 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Phil.
    The sET (sprayEjecting Tent), came from planet YaBe and materialised on my doorstep from a big red mothership that accelerated away at unearthly speed, and very nearly ran over my neighbours cat. ๐Ÿคฃ

    ๐Ÿ“ Painting the Well Deck.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 74 Views ยท 14 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    I want the walls of the well deck to have a nice pastel blue colour but spraying the area directly will prove to be difficult and the resulting finish may not be very good.

    The solution, I decided, was to make some separate panels from some 1.5mm obeche sheets which will act as liners that I could easily paint and finish and then glue in place.
    The panels were easy to make to be a good close fit and included a panel for the rear wall of the well deck, with some clearance holes for the servo mount screws and also the bulkhead F3, which I have re-made in ply for strength, which I had yet to fix in place.

    Once I was satisfied with the fit I applied some Z-Poxy resin in several coats to obtain a smooth finish and then all four parts were put into my recently acquired spray tent and given some light coats of white primer.
    After a light rub down with fine abrasive and cleaned with some panel wipe I applied two coats of some Halfords acrylic gloss in a light pastel blue colour.

    My painting process not only includes preparing the surface for the best finish but also warming the paint first which I do on a โ€˜shelfโ€™ above a tubular heater and then a thorough mixing by shaking the can as recommended.

    I will glue these panels and the F3 bulkhead in place after I have glued down the well deck floor.

    ๐Ÿ“ The tools/equipment of the ship modeler.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 38 Views ยท 9 Likes
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    A temporary Spray Booth.

    I thought I'd include this item in this thread as it has, for me, proved to be a very good substitute for a permanent spray booth with the advantage that it can be used indoors rather than outdoors without fear of contamination in the finish (usually flies!) and messy overspray.

    In my old garage/workshop I was able to construct a spraying booth on an old pasting table with a framework of wooden battens and a covering of cardboard sheets. I also installed an extractor fan and LED lighting and an old shower curtain to enclose me when working within the booth. A turntable within made turning the workpiece very easy and I managed to achieve some impressive paint finishes on my models in relative comfort and warmth.

    All of that was dismantled when I moved house but it was impractical to re-install it in my new workshop, and the little spraying that I did do in the new garage, on some garden furniture, resulted in a vast amount of overspray on every horizontal surface in my lovely new workshop.

    Clearly this was not what I wanted to contend with when spray painting my latest model boat project.

    The solution I found was a simple but effective โ€˜spray tentโ€™ that is remarkably inexpensive, easy to erect and dismantle for storage.
    I did have to choose one of the smaller versions of this tent so that it would fit the available width in my workshop but this is still sufficiently big enough to stand within, (wearing a suitable respirator of course!), and with the โ€˜doorโ€™ zipped up to enclose me fully, to apply spray paint whilst confining all of the overspray and dust within the tent.

    And being within a heated, ventilated and draft free workshop I could control the ambient temperature and happily โ€˜spray awayโ€™ without concerns of mess that overspray can make.

    The tent I bought from eBay was only ยฃ17.99 at that time (October 2025) but the price has now gone up to ยฃ21.59 (with free delivery, but currently out of stock!) a price which I still think is not unreasonable.

    For anyone interested, I've added a link to my build blog which includes the making of my spray booth:


    blogs/23951?sort=ASC
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375612958605
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Finishing the Decks with Epoxy Resin.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 80 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi Pete.
    The product description says a pot life of 20-30 minutes, hardening after 3 hours and is sandable after 6 hours.
    In practice I have found it hardened in 2 hours and I'm able to sand it after 5 hours but if there's no rush I much prefer to leave it overnight before any sanding and re-coating.
    The addition of 25% IPA in the first coat seems to harden and cure in much the same time with no ill effect.
    Previously I was using 'Easy Composites' cloth, resin & hardener but that always had a very extended hardening and curing time that made the process so much more time consuming.
    And despite cleaning surfaces with panel wipe, which I also still do with the Z-Poxy resin, I would often find 'fish eyes' in the finish that were always difficult to rectify after curing. Thankfully this never occurs with Z-Pozy finishing resin.

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    ๐Ÿ“ Finishing the Decks with Epoxy Resin.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 82 Views ยท 14 Likes ยท 5 Comments
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    All the planking is now complete and ready for the several coats of epoxy finishing resin to achieve the final finish that I want.

    I had previously planked and finished the forward well deck floor, which is currently covered in green masking tape to protect it, and I noted that the first coat of resin really could have been thinned to let the limewood and mahogany strips take up the finish more readily.

    With this in mind, and after a bit of research on the matter, I decided that I would dilute the initial coat of resin on the remaining planking with some isopropyl alcohol that I had ordered over the internet.
    Itโ€™s important to use the very purest alcohol with the lowest water content to be most effective and I had also read that the resin and catalyst ratio should still be 50:50 by weight but with the maximum addition of 25% isopropyl alcohol. Any more than this could retard the curing and hardening of the resin.

    The alcohol I use is 99.9% pure and the resultant epoxy mix soaks into the porous wood much better rather than laying on the surface and still cures and hardens in the same amount of time.

    The first piece I coated to test the new resin finishing process was the separate planked panel that is the large well deck floor, and after curing and hardening I rubbed this down with some abrasive and then applied two further undiluted coats of resin rubbed down between coats.

    I used cheap disposable brushes to apply the initial coats of resin, the occasional stray brush hair is easily removed but for the final coat I used a much better quality brush. The final coat was then rubbed down with progressively finer grades of wet & dry abrasive paper and then polished with a liquid abrasive (T-Cut) to reveal a very high gloss finish.

    Confident that I could achieve the depth of finish I wanted on all of the planking I masked all around the hull gunwale strips and then applied the first thinned coats and subsequent un-thinned coats to the main deck and the hatch cover.

    ๐Ÿ“ The Forward Deck, Adding More Detail.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 88 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 3 Comments
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    When I planked the forward part of the deck around the passenger well I brought the planking right up to the edges of the hole, and on reflection this could have really done with a mahogany border to better define it.

    In part the border will be concealed by the main cabin front screen and the small screen in front of the passenger well but I decided that it would be worth trying to cut away the planking and fit a border to improve the detailing of the forward deck.

    Fortunately, I kept the ply sheet that the deck panels were laser cut from and was able to use that to make a template of the border to the width that I wanted that included a margin for some black plasticard caulking.
    I used this to mark a cutting line around the hole and the proceeded to, with extreme care! cut through the planking with a very new and very sharp blade in my craft knife.
    The corner radiuses were particularly tricky and I only had one very minor knife slippage which Iโ€™m hoping I can sand off. I actually slightly undercut the planking to ensure that the caulking strips would fit without any gapping.

    This worked very well and I could then cut and apply the plasticard strips to the planking edges. The corners of the boarder were made from individual pieces of mahogany sheet trimmed to fit each corner tightly and then I applied some mahogany strips to join it all up.
    The internal corners were then sanded back to an even width using a sanding drum in my Deremel tool.

    I finished by sanding back the area to blend in the caulking and border strips around the passenger well. The process went better than expected and I think it will look really good once finished in clear high gloss epoxy resin.

    ๐Ÿ“ Making the Rear Hatch
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 97 Views ยท 14 Likes ยท 2 Comments
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    When I planked the rear deck area, I deliberately covered over the hole that I had made previously for the servo and rudder access hatch just to make application of the planking quicker and easier.
    This now needs to be cut out to reveal the hole so that I can form a proper hatch which was easily done using a Dremel routing bit and finishing with sharp craft knife and files.

    I applied several strips of clear packing tape over the rear deck to protect the newly planked surface and cut an oversize piece of 1.5mm ply for the hatch cover.

    As I want this cover to have the same curvature as the deck itself, I heated and bent the piece to the same curve as the rear deck and I applied the planking and plasticard โ€˜caulkingโ€™ to this panel whilst it was curved.

    I formed the coaming around the deck aperture from some obeche strips, making several shallow cuts using a razor saw to help them bend, to ensure that they also followed the deck curvature. I then formed a corresponding frame on the underside of the planked panel so that it mated with the deck coaming without too tight a fit to allow for surface finishing.

    The planking was then trimmed off around the panel and some โ€˜caulkingโ€™ and mahogany border strips fitted around it to complete the hatch cover. The caulking was trimmed back and the hatch given a thorough sanding in readiness for finishing.

    Later I will be fitting some small neodymium magnets in the coaming and the hatch cover to secure the hatch firmly in place.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting a Mahogany Gunwale.
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 106 Views ยท 3 Likes
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    Hi Ronald.

    "Are you using veneer?"

    No it's not veneer which is usually very much thinner than the 1.5mm limewood planks and 1.6mm mahogany strip that I'm using.

    The final finish will be several coats of Z-Poxy Finishing Resin which certainly does bring out the grain and colour of the wood๐Ÿ˜Ž.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting a Mahogany Gunwale.
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 111 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 4 Comments
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    Now that the whole deck is planked I can fit a mahogany gunwale around the hull which will be a good edge for the hull paint finish as well as a nice finishing detail.

    I canโ€™t use a plain and straight strip of mahogany for this, as to accommodate the curvature of the bow the strip would have to be contorted in two planes which is not possible to do.

    The solution was to use some thin card taped around the bow to form a template of suitable width and length that could be transferred to some mahogany sheet.
    This was very carefully cut from a sheet of 1.6mm mahogany allowing for a small overlap on the upper edge for later trimming and a finished width of 9mm which looked to be in proportion.
    A test fit proved that the strip conformed extremely well to the compound curvature and I then wetted, steamed and bent both pieces so that they fitted closely to the curve.

    These bow pieces only need to go far enough around the hull to a point where a regular strip of mahogany can be used to extend the gunwale to the stern. The bow pieces were fixed in place with some five-minute epoxy resin and held in place with clamps and some tape until set.
    I then continued the gunwale with some strip mahogany to the stern with a similar overlap for later trimming.

    The stern piece required the making of a similar card template and a piece was cut from the mahogany sheet and fixed with some epoxy.

    Once glued and set I trimmed back the overlap of this gunwale strip all around the hull with my trusty โ€˜Recordโ€™ hand plane.

    At the bow I added a small piece of mahogany to cover the top of the keel piece where it meets the deck.
    I then gave the entire deck a thorough sanding using progressively finer grades of abrasive paper until I obtained a satisfactory surface for finishing.

    ๐Ÿ“ Tools
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 28 Views ยท 4 Likes
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    I make very extensive use of a small 'Stanley' hand plane that I have had for many years for both DIY and model making. The blade is easy to grind and hone to a very sharp edge and I wouldn't be without it!

    It's a genuine Stanley British made tool that cost just a couple of pounds back in the day and after a quick look for a direct equivalent available now it would seem that even the cheap badly made foreign copies are likely to cost ยฃ30 or more ๐Ÿ˜ฎ.

    ๐Ÿ“ Planking the Deck. Part 3.
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 113 Views ยท 10 Likes
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    Happy New Year to everybody, I hope you all had a fun but relaxing time over the festive period! ๐Ÿ˜€

    Now...onwards with the VMW Marlin kit that's taken far too long to get its current state ๐Ÿ˜ฎ.

    I continued with the planking on the side decks from the transition point and then started on the rear deck, the process is really quite quick and easy once you get into a rhythm and the lime planking is very easy to work with. I ordered more than enough of this from the supplier (SLEC) to easily cover the required areas with enough in reserve for any future decking needs too. The mahogany sheets for the contrasting detail came from the same source.

    For the rear deck I decided to apply the planking over the hatch aperture rather than fit fiddly little pieces on either side of it with a view to opening up the hatch afterwards.

    The angle transition of the side decks looks, in my view, pretty good and was certainly a better way to continue the planking along the sides.
    I took a very sharp chisel to the entire deck area to pare back the black plasticard โ€˜caulkingโ€™ lines.

    Iโ€™ll give the decks a final trim around the lower deck areas where they overlap the edges and then give the whole deck a thorough sanding later on, but the next job will be to form some mahogany strips to use around the deck on the sides of the hull, these will make a nice gunwale feature and also become a good clean edge for the hull paint finish too.

    Very soon I'll need to decide on a suitable colour scheme, perhaps a pale blue or green with white or cream on the hull?

    A visit to Halfords (Automotive parts and paints supplier in the UK) may be in order to see what acrylic colours are available!

    ๐Ÿ“ Planking the deck. Part 2.
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    After fitting all of the mahogany border strips to the deck I cut lots of strips of .5mm black plasticard and added them to the inside faces of the mahogany all around the deck and also the central mahogany detail strip.

    At this stage I decided to add the last piece of ply deck at the stern, this was cut from fresh 1.5mm ply and the hatch opening formed.
    This was glued down, and when set I made a card template of the stern deck, and produced the mahogany edging for this and stuck that down too. The black plasticard โ€˜caulkingโ€™ was added to this as well.

    I then started adding the limewood planks and caulking to the front deck working outwards from the centre mahogany strip, the very outer strips continue down the deck sides, some of which a quite narrow, and these required very careful shaping to fit without any gaps which would spoil the look.

    These outer strips only extend half way down the deck as I decided to introduce another mahogany strip as a transition point for the planking so that the remaining strips would be parallel to the well deck sides. I felt that this would look far better than to continue the side planking in ever narrowing strips up to the rear deck.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planking the deck. Part 1.
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Mike W.

    "A very enjoyable read and an excellent build blog".

    Thank you for your kind comments, I'm pleased that you are enjoying reading my build blog ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘.

    Rob

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Re: Planking the deck. Part 1.
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Mike.
    Thank you for your kind comments, I'm pleased that you are enjoying reading my blog ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘.

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    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Crash Tender
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Heners.
    OK, now I understand the problems that you face ๐Ÿค”.
    Good to know that the water leak is fixed though.
    I think the excessive vibration you experience is because of the bad shaft alignment which will also be responsible for a great deal of power loss from the motor and possibly why the boat has insufficient power to 'plane'.
    The gearbox 'thingy' you describe is totally new to me !
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Crash Tender
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Hi Henners.
    Looking at the underside of the hull it's apparent that the prop-shaft tube is far shorter than the shaft itself so the shaft is not supported at the outboard end as it should be. This might cause the shaft to 'whip' or run with excessive movement and resulting end bearing wear. This may be why water is coming up the shaft tube, assuming that the tube is not packed with a suitable grease?

    Also the alignment of the shaft with the motor isn't ideal and the use of a double coupling could be putting stress on the motor end bearing and the inboard shaft bearing too.
    I can't make out what the red 'thingy', for the want of a better description, is at the inboard end of the propshaft. What is that?

    The water pickup is facing backwards, which is not normal, but you don't need it anyway, but make sure it's fully blanked off internally.

    In my humble opinion you need to install a new shaft of the correct length, with a new single coupling and make sure that it is all in a direct straight alignment and the shaft tube filled with a suitable marine grease.

    I attach a pic of my 47" RAF Crash Rescue Tender in construction showing the motor position and alignment in my model.

    I hope that is helpful.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fire Crash Tender
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 76 Views ยท 11 Likes
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    Hi All.
    Here's a video clip of the real boat running at speed and in action putting out a fire.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planking the deck. Part 1.
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 124 Views ยท 5 Likes
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    Hi Ronald.

    "Are the planks of the upper decks to be the same width as the lower deck planks?"

    Yes, they will also be 1.6 x 6.5mm lime wood with .5mm black caulking lines and a high gloss epoxy resin finish.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Planking the deck. Part 1.
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    The planking of the lower rear deck seemed to go quite well but the main deck will be a bit more of a challenge for me too as I want to add some borders and detail in contrasting mahogany.
    I will also be adding a mahogany detail to the hull that follows the gunwale of the deck that will form a nice edge for the paint finish on the hull.

    I began by using some thin cardboard to make some templates for the edging of the foredeck, a 10mm width of mahogany looks to be a nice proportion to the 6.5mm limewood planks.
    You might expect that both the port and starboard card templates for the foredeck would be identical back-to-back but surprisingly that is not the case with a variation of a few mm in places. For this reason, separate templates were made and laid onto some 1.5mm mahogany sheet, the outlines marked and very carefully cut from the sheet with a very sharp blade.
    With the mahogany, being so thin and the grain being quite coarse, there is the possibility that it can break across the grain, so great care is required to hold the sheet down firmly while being cut.

    Similarly, I made card templates for the longer pieces that go back to the stern. The inner edges of all these mahogany pieces were smoothed with some abrasive paper. The outer edges slightly overlap the deck and will be trimmed and contoured before the gunwale strips are applied around the hull at a later stage.

    An additional detail is a central mahogany strip on the foredeck that will be echoed on the very rear deck and access hatch. All of these pieces were fixed down with CA and I took great care to get a very tight join between the pieces for the best appearance.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Planking the rear lower deck.
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
    โœง 120 Views ยท 6 Likes
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    Hi Ronald.

    "Is it possible to use a different glue if a person doesnโ€™t tolerate CA?"

    Fortunately I don't have any intolerance to CA, but I am very careful not to stick myself to anything with it!

    I find it perfect for fixing the planking strips and plasticard as the 'grab' time is just right to allow placing the lime strip and pressing it firmly into place.
    Similarly for the plasticard 'caulking' strips.
    Its use does allow for very quickly covering the required area without needing to hold anything in place with pins, clamps or tape, as you might if you used wood glue, which wouldn't be suitable for the plastic anyway, or any other form of adhesive.

    As I say, it works for me, but perhaps others could offer an alternative for those that have a reaction to CA?

    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Planking the rear lower deck.
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    With all of the deck panels firmly glued in place and trimmed all round with a small hand plane I can now consider the rear lower deck floor.

    As with the deck panels this is also laser etched with planking lines and at this stage of construction it would be impossible to apply my own planking and caulking lines in the deep recess.
    My solution was to cut a piece of 2mm ply to form a new floor panel that I could plank as a separate panel that will be glued down over the laser etched floor. I marked out an aperture on the panel to fit around the motor mounting block.

    To date this will be the largest area that I have attempted to plank and I also fear that the process will cause the panel to distort as the glues and resin finishes cure.

    I began the process by marking a centre line and fixing down the 1.6mm x 6.5mm limewood strips and the .5mm black plasticard โ€˜caulkingโ€™ lines with superglue and working outwards symmetrically to, hopefully, minimise stresses in the panel.
    I found that, although repetitive, the process was quite easy and enjoyable to do as there was no fiddly cutting and trimming of planks to perform.

    Once the panel was fully covered I left it for a day or so for the glue to fully cure before trimming off the overlaps around the edges and paring the plasticard caulking down to an even surface with a sharp chisel.
    I then cut out the aperture for the motor mounting block and did a test fit. A final rub down with 400 grit abrasive paper resulted in a fine finish ready for the first of several coats of epoxy finishing resin.

    Thankfully at this stage there is no significant distortion of the panel so my fears were largely unfounded.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Fitting the deck skins
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    Ronald, Phil & Bob.
    Thank you all for you generous comments on my recent blog updates. It's good to hear that the content is of interest to you ๐Ÿ˜Š.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the deck skins
    4 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Fleet Admiral)
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    The deck skins in the VMW Marlin kit are laser etched with planking lines for those that are happy to use the panels as they are but, as with the lower deck floors, Iโ€™ll be applying my own planking strips with black caulking lines with some additional mahogany detailing.

    The deck panels consist of seven separate pieces and are simply glued in place using some aliphatic resin. Being laser cut they all fit together very accurately.

    The forward lower deck floor was covered in masking tape to protect the epoxy finish and glued in place as it will not be possible to fit this piece after the decks are fitted.

    After applying some TiteBond 2 glue to the forward deck panels I pinned and clamped them in place.
    I also used some packing tape to pull the skins down firmly; the packing tape is very strong under tension and is ideal for this.

    The side deck pieces were fitted in the same way but I decided to re-make the piece supplied for the very rear of the deck to accommodate the hatch aperture that will give access to the rudder and servo, and also the cooling โ€˜plumbingโ€™.

    At this stage I removed the centre support piece from the area as it doesn't really add anything to the integrity or strength to the hull and its removal gives far better access through the hatch for accessing the rudder servo etc.



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