|||
Not Registered
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
Cancel
Anytime
ยฃ2.50
ยฃ4.50
ยฃ6.50
Subscribe
Go AD FREE & get your membership medal
BRONZE
Less Ads
SILVER
GOLD
Ad Free
For A Whole Year!
ยฃ25
ยฃ45
ยฃ65
Donate
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Download The App!

    Login To
    Remove Ads
    Login To
    Remove Ads

    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    The Games Chest
    Registered
    24th Jan 2016
    Last Online
    24th Sep 2025
    robbob
    Member Stats
    Stats
    Member No.#3664
    Registered๐Ÿ“…24th Jan 2016
    Last Online๐Ÿ“…24th Sep 2025
    City๐Ÿ“Milton Keynes
    Country๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡งUnited Kingdom
    Genderโ™‚๏ธMale
    Age๐Ÿ‘ถ70
    Posts๐Ÿ’ฌ1421
    Followers๐Ÿ“ฃ15
    Likes Received๐Ÿ‘6191

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Send Private Message
    ๐Ÿ’ต Gift a Membership
    Members Following
    Follow robbob
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Jay ( Recruit)
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ญ Mike Stoney ( Rear Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง SouthportPat ( Commodore)
    ๐Ÿ‡จ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ronald ( Fleet Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Back in the Groove ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง tonyb2 ( Recruit)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง allenrod ( Master Seaman)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง neilmc ( Warrant Officer)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Madwelshman ( Lieutenant)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง drspock ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง hmsnostalgia ( Petty Officer 1st Class)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Martin555 ( Fleet Admiral)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฆ Ianh ( Commander)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง Rookysailor ( Commodore)
    ๐Ÿ‡ฉ๐Ÿ‡ช RNinMunich ( Fleet Admiral)
    15 Followers
    Admiral
    Ranks Points
    Fleet Admiral 10,000
    Admiral 8,000
    Vice Admiral 6,000
    Rear Admiral 5,000
    Commodore 4,000
    Captain 3,000
    Commander 2,500
    Lieutenant Commander 2,000
    Lieutenant 1,600
    Sub-Lieutenant 1,200
    Midshipman 900
    Warrant Officer 600
    Chief Petty Officer 1st Class 450
    Chief Petty Officer 2nd Class 300
    Petty Officer 1st Class 200
    Petty Officer 2nd Class 150
    Master Seaman 100
    Leading Seaman 50
    Able Seaman 20
    Recruit 0
    505 Points Away From Fleet Admiral!
    Points
    ActivityWorthAwarded
    ๐Ÿ‘ Likes (rcv'd)16,191
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Forum2720
    โœ๏ธ Comments21,628
    โœ๏ธ Blog4868
    ๐Ÿ“ท Photos40
    ๐ŸŽฅ Videos1020
    ๐Ÿ“ Place824
    ๐Ÿšค Harbour824
    ๐Ÿ“ Guestbook1010
    ๐Ÿ˜Š Avatar1010
    9,495 Total Points
    United Kingdom
    Signature
    "Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana"
    Members Harbour
    Members Blogs
    Recent Posts
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Bow Blocks.
    3 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 10 Views ยท 0 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Ronald.
    Hard to say what grade of balsa was supplied in the prototype kit ๐Ÿค”.
    It was easy to work with so possibly a medium grade?
    In any event it will be covered with glass cloth and resin and then it will be as hard as it needs to be!
    Rob

    Login To
    Remove Ads

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Bow Blocks.
    5 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 22 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Chris.
    It seems to be the way that the Marlin designer, Phil Smith, liked to do the bow section of his designs.
    The Thames River Police Launch that I built previously, also a Phil Smith Veron design, used the same principle as seen in the first picture.

    In contrast, the SLEC Pilot Boat that I built, an old Aerokits/Keil Kraft design, also uses balsa blocks but they do follow the line of the lower chines as seen in the second picture.

    So it seems that various designers approach the matter with different method to achieve the same result.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ The Bow Blocks.
    6 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 27 Views ยท 6 Likes ยท 5 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    With the bottom and side skins fitted and trimmed the bow can be finished with the balsa blocks supplied in the kit.

    The bow has to be made this way because ply skins would could never be made to fit, as ply cannot be bent in two planes to form the required compound curve, and balsa is an ideal material for this purpose as it is easily carved and sanded to the required curvatures.

    This can be quite tricky to do well so it deserves to be done slowly and with great care as I didnโ€™t want to resort to the use of any filler to correct any mistakes on my part.

    The balsa blocks supplied with my prototype kit needed to be arranged and laminating to produce a single block that would fill the area required together.
    Itโ€™s likely the production kits will have one-piece blocks to simplify this stage.

    The largest piece was placed in the bow and marked with a pencil line so that a basic cut could be made with a coping saw, and then the smaller pieces and offcuts arranged to fill the required area, and then all were glued together in the bow.
    When the aliphatic glue had set some more basic cuts were made with a fine saw and then further refined with a coarse file to the rough profiles required.

    The final shaping was done very gradually and carefully with fines files and sanding blocks to produce the final shape, taking great care to extend the line of the lower chine along the block to meet with the front keel former.

    I used a card template (not shown) to make sure that both blocks were symmetrical and checking with โ€˜mark-1 eyeballโ€™ as well.

    I also temporarily attached the false keel to check that it would conform and fit to the blocks as seen in the last picture.

    With great relief I decided that it was as good as I could make it and it only remains to fit the ply skin to the stern to finish the hull.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the side skins.
    13 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 39 Views ยท 6 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Both of the side skins are in two pieces of 1.5mm ply, a short bow piece and a longer second piece that extends from F2 to the stern.
    As with the bottom skins I used my heat gun to bend and shape these skins so that they fit the contours of the hull but I did find a problem with the dimensions of the larger skins after test fitting them.

    It was apparent that the skins had been made slightly too short by about 10mm to span from former F2 to the stern allowing for a small overlap for trimming. Not a major problem, and to overcome it I simply made up some ply doublers from some scrap ply and added them to each of the F2B formers that would allow me to set the skins back sufficiently to reach the stern correctly.

    The kit of parts that I am assembling is a pre-production prototype and my build is primarily to discover any construction snags such as this. I understand that this has now been โ€˜designed outโ€™ of the later production kits of the Marlin.

    There was another small problem ๐Ÿ˜ฎ with the upper chines in that they were not wide enough at the stern to meet the edges of the formers but again a simple solution was to add some scrap balsa to bring them out to the correct position. Once sanded back they were just fine to meet the top edges of the side skins. Again, this will be rectified in the production versions.

    Some sanding sealer was applied to the internal faces of the skins, avoiding the glue areas that meet the chines and formers, something that is not strictly necessary but to me it seems like a reasonable precaution to protect the internal faces of the skins from damage by any (unlikely) water ingress.

    The skins were held in place by the usual assortment of clamps and pins but in addition I also use brown packing tape pulled tightly across the hull to really pull the skins down tightly along the joint with the bottom skins. The packing tape has extremely high tensile strength and is ideal for this purpose and leaves no residue when removed.

    The smaller skins at the bow were then heat formed and sealed internally before glueing, pinning and clamping into place and once all of the glue had set the clamps, pins & tape was removed and I then had the very satisfying job of planning and sanding back all of the skins along the top edges and the meeting edges of the side and bottom skins. There's a small gap in the skins as seen in the last picture that will need a bit of filler after the bow blocks are fitted and shaped, this is because the skins were moved further back to get the overlap at the stern, again a small revision required for the production models.

    I feel that I'm now finally making some some good progress with this build ๐Ÿค— but there's a long way to go yet ๐Ÿค” and hopefully those following this blog aren't totally bored yet ๐Ÿ˜ด. Let me know?

    The next part will cover the fitting and shaping of the balsa bow blocks ๐Ÿ˜Ž.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Sheeting
    15 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 27 Views ยท 1 Like
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Glyn.
    Good to see you making some progress๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜€
    Clamping shouldn't be an issue๐Ÿ˜, I suppose it depends on the types and sizes of clamps you're using?
    I have an assortment that are very versatile and I use them in combination with brass pins and 'map pins'.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 36" Veron Thames Police Launch
    17 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 50 Views ยท 11 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Another lovely Veron design by Phil Smith and reworked by his son Colin Smith, that I have also built from a VMW (Vintage Model Works) kit.
    I have a build blog for this on this site:

    blogs/47891?sort=ASC
    https://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: 36" Veron Marlin
    18 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 53 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    It's nice to see an example of the boat that I'm building at the moment.
    This one is in need of just a little bit of TLC.

    The water cooled motor mount looks to be a bit of overkill!

    The last picture is a test build of the VMW version by Colin Smith (son of the original designer Phil Smith) I think?
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the Bottom Skins.
    18 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 53 Views ยท 11 Likes ยท 5 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    In response to a recent forum thread on 'tools' I have concluded that one of the most essential tools to have when building model boats is the humble clamp.
    You can never have too many of them in all sizes and types!

    I employed a small selection from my collection of clamps in the fitting process of the bottom skins along with a number of brass panel pins and a few โ€˜push pinsโ€™ to hold the skins in place while the aliphatic glue sets.
    The clamps come in a variety of sizes and types and are usually quite inexpensive. I used to buy a lot of them at the 'tool' trade stands at the big model shows (most shows are long gone now โ˜น๏ธ) but they also often crop up in โ€˜pound storesโ€™ and the like.

    Once the first skin has set I fitted the other side in the same fashion although I have easily enough clamps and pins to do both at the same time!

    When all were set after a few hours I used my small hand plane and sanding plate to trim back the excess ply to the strakes in preparation for fitting the side skins.

    Thatโ€™s when I noticed a minor issue with the side skins, which Iโ€™ll cover later.

    BTW. Does anybody know where I can buy a metal version of the plastic push pins that many of us seem to use?

    The plastic ones work extremely well but the heads on them seem to break rather too easily in use, especially when gripped and pulled out using pliers ๐Ÿ˜ .

    I have found some metal headed ones on the interweb that are sold in artist supplies stores and some for glazing uses but they are very expensive in any useful quantity.

    There are also metallic silver finished plastic ones out there which will, of course, be no better!

    Can anyone suggest a supplier?

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Expensive hole!
    18 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 50 Views ยท 2 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Glyn.
    The bit that you have bought looks like a masonry bit which isn't best suited to use on wood! ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    PS. No problem with you using pics from my SLEC Pilot Boat build blog ๐Ÿ˜Š
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: SLEC pilot boat progress.
    18 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 50 Views ยท 9 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Glyn.
    I would recommend aliphatic glue for the skins, the use of contact adhesive would mean you have to get the skins in the right place first time otherwise you're in for a whole world of pain trying to reposition them.
    A tip....I have always used a heat gun on the skins to bend the ply to the approximate curvature before fixing them using lots of clamps and brass pins where required.

    Because the bow is a compound curve you can't bend the ply bottom skins in two directions to produce the correct shapes, hence the use of the balsa blocks for the bow.
    The blocks are glued in place after the skins are fitted and you carve and sand them to shape, do it slowly and carefully because if you take too much off you can't put it back on and then you'll have to use filler to rectify it!

    Regarding the painting, in my view this is best done when it's all assembled. I use fibreglass cloth and epoxy resin on the hull and sometimes on the cabin but you could just use several coats sanding sealer or alternatively Deluxe Materials 'Eze-Kote' for a better surface finish for paint.

    I hope that's helpful.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Modifying The Rudder
    22 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 61 Views ยท 4 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Zooma.
    Well, best get 'fettling' and put some pictures up of your Marlin in your harbour. It appears (to me at least) to be not a very common boat so I've seen very few finished examples compared to other Veron designs. It's always nice to see how other have built and finished boats that I've built of am familiar with.
    Rob.

    Login To
    Remove Ads

    ๐Ÿ“ Modifying The Rudder
    24 days ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 71 Views ยท 13 Likes ยท 3 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Before I can fit the bottom ply skins, I need to work out the rudder position relative to the water pickup and in turn, the propeller, and then drill the keel for both.

    However, the rudder needs to be modified so that it has a lower profile and this is done by turning the blade by 90 degrees.
    I had done this previously when I built the VMW Thames Police Launch so I knew it would be a simple operation.

    The blade of the rudder is held in the slotted shaft by two brass rivets and these are easily removed with a punch, then the blade can be rotated about one of the holes and a new hole drilled for the repositioned rivet which is then peened over to fix the blade position.

    After cleaning up the parts, I applied some flux and soft soldered the parts together for good measure.
    The empty rivet hole was also filled with a small offcut of brass rod, soldered in place and then flatted with a file and emery paper.
    After a polish with some fine wire wool, it looked bright and shiny although I will probably re-polish it and apply some clear lacquer as part on the finishing process.

    Now I could use the rudder to determine the correct position in the keel and also the water pickup tube location.
    My new prop-shaft has not arrived at this time so I used a substitute to check position and clearances.
    The holes were then drilled ensuring that they were vertical and the rudder and water pickup tube tried for fit.
    I still need to bend and shape the pickup so for now the 6mm brass tube is pushed through the keel for fit.

    On with the skins now!

    ๐Ÿ“ Saying hello
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 26 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Glyn.
    The superstructure should definitely NOT be glued into place, it's essential that it remains removable for access to the interior.
    All I can suggest is that you try to separate it as best as possible without doing too much damage.
    I would rather hope that SLEC could help you out here but you should expect that it would likely incur material and carriage costs and as a worst-case scenario you could use the original sheet as a template with new wood that you can source from SLEC.
    Good luck ๐Ÿคž.
    Robbob.๐Ÿ˜€

    ๐Ÿ“ Preparing The Bottom Skins.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 75 Views ยท 10 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    This is probably one on my favourite parts of a boat building project.

    Fitting the skins marks a transition between the skeletal form of the hull and the something that starts to resemble a boat.

    My sanding plate made a good job of flattening the keel, formers and chines and so I pinned the 1.5mm ply skins roughly in place so see how well they fitted. I put a slight chamfer on the meeting edges on the keel to ensure that they butted together without any gaps.

    I added some extra balsa formers either side of the keel just to add some extra support to the bottom skins and prevent resonance, and these also help to locate the styrene โ€˜conduitsโ€™ for the wiring and cooling circuits.

    One trick I like to use is to pre-form the skins to conform to the curvatures of the hull using a heat gun, in this case a re-purposed paint stripping gun.
    Used carefully and sparingly the heat from the gun is sufficient to relax the glue bond between the ply layers to allow them to be formed by hand to the hull curvatures.
    I generally over bend the ply so that when the skins cool and the glue bond restored the skins relax back a bit and into the desired curve such that the skin can lay on the hull formers requiring very little pinning or clamping.

    As the skins form a sealed compartment I gave the two bottom skins a couple of coats of sanding sealer for good measure making sure that I left the areas of glue contact were left un-treated, I also coated the corresponding internal areas of the hull with sanding sealer.
    Once happy with the fit of the skins I put them aside and drilled the prop shaft tube hole through the keel using a long 8mm dia wood bit which made a very clean exit hole.
    After re-pinning the skins in position I drilled and shaped the two skins to fit around the 8mm diameter prop shaft tube, which at this time I didnโ€™t have as it was being made for me my Steve at Model Boat Bits, so I used a length of 8mm styrene rod as a substitute.

    At this point I also had to drill the holes for the rudder and a water pickup for the ESC cooling circuit. The rudder, a standard 'large' brass one, will require a bit of conversion first as I need this to determine the correct rudder position relative to the water pickup tube and the propeller.

    Iโ€™ll cover that in the next part.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Think Iโ€™ve seen the light
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 79 Views ยท 3 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Glyn.
    Looks like you're making good progress now ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜€.
    In my experience the SLEC Pilot Pilot Boat kit is all quality materials, with all parts accurately cut and the build instructions quite comprehensive, the pictures are a great help for novice builders too.
    I hope my own build blog is helpful as a point of reference.
    Robbob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Saying hello
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 5 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Wolac.
    Here's a link to a video I made of my Pilot Boat:
    All of the design and implementation of the electrics is detailed in my build blog.
    Robbob.


    ๐Ÿ“ Saying hello
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Wolac.
    That ribbon cable connects the lighting circuits and radar motor to the electronic switches that operate them.
    There is a video file in the media gallery on this site that demonstrates the working of these features. If I can find it I'll post a link.
    Robbob.

    ๐Ÿ“ Saying hello
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 37 Views ยท 7 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Hi Wolac.
    Welcome to this site, you will make lots of friends and there's always help and advice to be found here.

    I built the SLEC pilot boat a little while ago and thoroughly enjoyed it although I did my own version of the cabin as I felt that the kit version needed some improvement.
    Here's my build blog:


    blogs/71877
    ๐Ÿ“ Assembling & fitting the Chines.
    1 month ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 81 Views ยท 10 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    As with the keel, the upper and lower chines are each assembled from four different pieces. This can be done over the plan but in practice it is just as easy and accurate to do directly on the workbench as the laser cut parts are very accurately cut. The balsa pieces are simply glued together to form the two upper and two lower chines.

    Once the glue had set they were fitted to the hull, some formers are slotted to accept them and they overlay some others, and they were all pinned and glued in place on both sides. The two K7 parts were then added to the front with some additional supporting pieces from some ply scraps just for added strength.

    I also added some additional keel doublers, made from scrap ply trimmed and shaped to clear the wiring conduits. This was just to add some strengthening to the area that will have holes bored through for the rudder and the water pickup tube.

    Some additional formers were added at the F3 position just to add some extra support to the bottom skins when they are added.

    At the stern the parts F5a & F5b were added to form the curvature of the stern and bulkhead F5 was then sanded to complete the curvature using my sanding plate to ensure flatness.

    With all of the bulkheads, formers and chines in place I used a small plane to shape the ply keel and then the sanding plate to flatten all of them in readiness for fitting the ply bottom and side skins.

    ๐Ÿ“ Where do you build your models?
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 38 Views ยท 5 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    Well......it's not quite as tidy as that at the moment, those pics are a few weeks old.
    I do still keep it reasonably clean and tidy, and mostly put tools back from whence they came before the bench gets too cluttered๐Ÿ˜‡.
    Shame I don't have any pics of my electronics workbench from when I was working....now that was disgraceful ๐Ÿ˜....but I knew where everything was!

    ๐Ÿ“ Where do you build your models?
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 39 Views ยท 9 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ“ Reply
    I think I might have posted these pictures of my workshop before.

    I have an 'integral garage' in my new house that I have converted into a workshop so it's warm in winter โ„๏ธ๐Ÿ˜ and remarkably cool in summerโ˜€๏ธ๐Ÿ˜Ž.
    For entertainment I have a mini HiFi system for FM, DAB, CD and MP3 playback and also an internet radio unit on which I can find almost any genre of music and, more importantly, my favourite old time British radio comedy programmes ๐Ÿคฃ.

    Login To
    Remove Ads

    ๐Ÿ“ More formers & bulkheads
    2 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 83 Views ยท 9 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Continuing with the construction of the hull, the remaining balsa 'F' formers were glued to the underside of the box at the marked positions and the corresponding formers added to the box sides.
    All of these formers act as supports for the upper and lower chines that give the hull its final shape.
    At the same time I installed the four styrene โ€˜conduitsโ€™ through the bottom formers.
    At the stern the tubes end at the face of the rear bulkhead as this compartment will contain the rudder servo and the water-cooling pickup and exhaust tubing connections.
    Two of the conduits will be used for cooling water flow and return in silicone tubing, a third for servo wiring and the fourth more for symmetry that anything else!

    At the forward ends the conduits stop just underneath the motor and Electronic Speed Controller locations. The ESC will be mounted on one side of the dividing bulkhead F3 which is inside the cabin and the motor will be in a separate housing in the open part of the deck.
    I also made some suitably sized holes through the keel and floor to allow for the cooling tubes and motor wiring to exit.

    There are four additional balsa formers, F5A & F5B, that fit onto the rear former F5 that give the stern its curved shape, these are simply glued in place and will be sanded back to blend them all together when the chines are fitted. The ply skin of the stern will be added at a later of construction.

    The next job will be to assemble and fit the upper and lower chines.

    NB.
    My apologies for the rather sporadic posting of these blog updates, my wife has had some recent surgery that will rather limit her mobility for a while, so domestic priorities mean that workshop and blog writing time is quite low down the list โ˜น๏ธ.

    ๐Ÿ“ Fitting the Keel, Formers & Bulkheads
    3 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 89 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    The keel and formers can now be fitted to the box, starting with the forward piece of the keel which was glued and fixed centrally along the box and ensuring that it is central and square and equidistant from each side.

    The rear piece of the keel (K5) was also fitted leaving an 8 mm gap for the 8 mm diameter prop shaft tube and the keel doublers (K6) which I had previously machined with a groove to accommodate the styrene conduits, were added to either side.
    All of the lower formers were then added to either side of the keel on the underside of the box. At this point I decided that it would be an advantage to fabricate some additional formers to fit to the underside of the box at the F3C position as they would provide some additional support for the bottom skins when they are fitted.

    Two pieces of 9mm ply, F1 & F1A, are glued together to make Former F1 and I added a brass pin to reinforce the joint. I donโ€™t see any reason that this part canโ€™t be made out of one piece of ply instead of two, but I expect that VMW have a reason to do so?
    The assembled F1 former is then glued to the forward keel, I used forward cabin floor component clamped in place to act as a temporary spacer, and then the K3 was added to the front of the box to locate and support F1.

    The two halves of F5 are glued and laminated together to form a 9mm balsa former which is added to the rear of the keel, with the addition of K5 to locate and support the laminated F5.

    After fitting lots of effinโ€™ formers ๐Ÿ˜‰ (with more to fit!) the hull is slowly beginning to take shape.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The Keel & Formers.
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 96 Views ยท 6 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Mike.
    Good to hear from you๐Ÿ˜€, I did think that I'd not seen much from you recently on this site ๐Ÿค”.

    I generally agree with you about the effort that goes into writing and presenting an interesting build blog.

    Good writing, grammar and photography takes more time but for my part I still enjoy doing it, now that I have the time, and I'm always encouraged by the helpful and constructive comments that I receive.

    BTW. I built the tubes into my Marlin long before you started yours but never got around to starting my blog until long after you finished your own model and build blog ๐Ÿ˜‰.

    I agree that it would be a useful addition to the construction sheet ๐Ÿ‘.

    I've no real idea about the VMW model sales, like you I do the test builds, which I imagine do help with promoting the kits.

    Thanks for following my blog, at least I know that you are among a few that are following, and hopefully enjoying reading it.

    All the best. Rob.

    ๐Ÿ“ The Keel & Formers.
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 108 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 2 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    The keel consists of a number of sections of 9mm ply that are glued together rather than a single piece. The supplied instructions suggest that you overlay the plan with something transparent as protection and to lay out and glue and pin all the keel parts to ensure correct alignment.
    I found that this was not strictly necessary as the CNC cutting of the parts is so accurate that I could pin the parts to my cutting board along a straight edge and still achieve perfect alignment.

    There will be a gap in the keel for the prop shaft tube and this is bridged by the two K6 components. At this stage the instructions say that you should glue the keel doublers K6 to form the complete keel but I decided to do that at a slightly later stage.

    The keel is to be attached to the underside of the box and so I carefully measured and marked a centre line on the box. However, before I attached the keel and itโ€™s supporting formers, I chose to drill some holes through the formers so that I could install some styrene tubes from front to rear as โ€˜conduitsโ€™ for motor, battery, servo wiring and cooling pipes so that they are all are concealed under the floor panels and behind bulkheads.

    Fortunately, I already had some 10mm styrene tubes left over from a previous project and all I needed to do was temporarily pin the formers together to form a stack in the correct order to ensure they all stayed in alignment and then drill through them all in one go with a 10mm wood bit.

    I decided to re-make formers F4A in 9mm ply, as drilling through the original balsa parts with such a large diameter bit would almost destroy them, and the ply pieces also acted as a guide for the drilling.

    A dry test-fit with the conduits through the formers on the underside of the box revealed that before fitting the keel doublers K6 they would need some attention as they interfered with the path of conduits.
    The remedy was to make a simple jig to enable me to โ€˜routโ€™ out a shallow groove in the pieces using a router bit in my drill stand and a guide piece clamped to the drill base and just pushing the pieces through the jig.

    I will continue with fitting the formers in the next part.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Constructing the box.
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 108 Views ยท 4 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Doug.
    Thanks for you comment on the etymology of the word ๐Ÿ˜‰.
    Best to draw a line under this thread before it gets too 'earthy' ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
    Cheers.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: Constructing the box.
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 118 Views ยท 6 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Just for you Doug ๐Ÿ˜‰

    I found a word I thought I'd heard and this is how it goes....
    "superaliphatcilisticklebtwieScheiรŸeaneinernassendecke"

    ๐Ÿคฃ

    ๐Ÿ“ Constructing the box.
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 122 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 5 Comments
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    This is probably the easiest part of constructing the Marlin and having previously built the Thames River Police Boat Iโ€™m quite familiar with the โ€˜formers around a boxโ€™ method of construction which is characteristic of the Veron designs.

    The base of the box is 9mm ply which is laser etched with planking lines ready for finishing, but Iโ€™m going to overlay this at a later stage with another panel that will be planked with 6.5mm wide limewood with .5mm black plasticard โ€˜caulkingโ€™.

    The box sides are 9mm balsa and end panels 9mm ply. Before assembly both of the balsa side panels need to be โ€˜half-cutโ€™ along the marked lines and then glued and bent to conform with the taper of the ply base.

    The sides are then glued and temporarily pinned to the base and the two 9mm ply end pieces, formers F2 and F4, glued to the inside face of the side panels.
    A quick check with a try square and then it was left to dry.

    Iโ€™m using Titebond 2 throughout the build, itโ€™s is an โ€˜aliphatic resinโ€™ (whatever that is!) glue which I have always had great success with.

    The next part will cover the addition of the keel and some of the formers.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The VMW Marlin Cabin Cruiser by Robbob
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 128 Views ยท 12 Likes ยท 1 Comment
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi Ronald.

    "Any views of your new shop?"

    I'm very proud with my new workshop and pleased to give you a look at it ๐Ÿ˜Š.
    It's a single 'integral' garage (UK size is 9 ft wide by 17ft long, which I could get my car into but then I wouldn't be able to get out of the car!)
    Much warmer in winter than my old detached garage and cooler in summer too.
    Rob.

    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Re: The VMW Marlin Cabin Cruiser by Robbob
    5 months ago by ๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง robbob ( Admiral)
    โœง 134 Views ยท 5 Likes
    Flag
    ๐Ÿ’ฌ Add Comment
    Hi TonyAsh

    "What I find odd is it appears that the cabin has no doors or hatches -tell me I'm wrong!"

    You're absolutely right....there are no doors but there will be a couple of hatches, one up front to access the forward wiring and one at the stern to access the rudder servo.

    A very valid comment though, and for your benefit I may include or simulate a door in the rear wall of the cabin for the captain and passengers!

    Rob.



    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy