Impressive..... Nicely engineered and looks quite substantial 👍👍, hopefully you can blend it into the rubbing strakes to be virtually invisible. Well worth the effort to incorporate at this stage, I just wish I had done so myself 😭. I'm glad that you can benefit from my bad experience. That's what this forum is all about 😁. Great work as always. Rob
Hi Michael. I was also a bit nervous when glassing the hull, I did a few trial pieces first to test the application method and the curing time but I actually found the process very straightforward and gave excellent results. Next time I'll use the faster curing hardener now I have the technique and confidence. I do regret not glassing the deck and superstructure as they would have benefited from a stronger surface. If it's not too late you might want to consider insetting a piece of steel or brass on the tip of the prow on the upper strake to protect from any accidental knocks. I managed to do that while carrying the boat through a doorway😡. It was quite easy to repair but a bit late for me to add a reinforcing plate around the nose. Keep up the great work. Robbob.
That's a very clever design and we'll executed. Two concerns, the finished roof might be a little fragile and easily knocked, trust me, it happens 😱, particularly with the mast in place and the 'pantagraph' motion knocked out of alignment. Also, if you are doing working lighting for the mast, front and side nav lights and searchlight, how will you articulate the wiring to them neatly? Perhaps a self locating, on closure, multi pin connector? I'm sure you have already considered these points so I'll be interested to see how you engineer them. Keep up the great work 👍. Robbob.
This build just keeps getting better !! Here's a drawing of part of the control panel that shows a little more detail and a still from the Pathe video that shows a bit more. I hope they are helpful. Robbob.
Hi Vosper21 Welcome to the forum. I put a single motor, shaft and rudder in my fireboat so I don't have any first hand experience of a twin drive system but I would think that the shafts should exit the hull at the same points as the single shaft but equidistant from the keel. Similarly the rudders should be directly behind each prop. There are members on this site that have done a twin drive system on the 46" model that can offer more informed guidance, hopefully they will chip in with some good advice. Over to you chaps ! Please consider doing a build blog to document your progress. Good luck with the build. Robbob.
Hi Michael. Excellent work on the foam tank gratings 👍 I assume you tried to source from Modellingtimbers initially? http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/7.html For those that don't have the kind of tooling that you have the gratings are also available from this alternative supplier: http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=016 Their product range and prices are very good, and delivery is remarkably cheap and very quick too considering they are based in Poland. I have sourced various bits from them for my fireboat and I can thoroughly recommend them (although they seem to be presently out of stock of the 3mm gratings 🤔) Rob.
Skeg by robbob Fleet Admiral! Posted: 3 months ago
Excellent work Michael👍. My second attempt a making a skeg for my boat was passable (eventually). I overdid the silver solder and spent ages filing the surplus away.....less is more, as they say. I finally mastered silver soldering with some of the later brass fittings I made, fortunately you also have a lathe and clearly a great deal more experience than me. Robbob.
Oh... I wish I had all that info on the mysterious 'Ministry' book ! The illustrations you see were supplied to me by the wonderful chaps at 'Vintage Model Workshop', not sure where they got them from but that's all they have too. Rob.
Hi Javro. Are these helpful? They are .pdf's so you will need to download them. Very few 'photos and film exist of these boats and somewhere there's a 'Ministry of Supply' book from which these illustrations came from that I really wish I could track down. Rob.
Hi All. I think I'll hold back on upgrading my setup until Chris has a successful outcome. If he's still having trouble I may bite the bullet and do mine to see if I can get it to work, at least the rollback to the previous firmware is a safety net, I wouldn't want to brick my system😱. Rob.
Hi Chris. It looks like you have already posted an enquiry on the github site for 'benb0jangles' attention, let's hope you get a response to that. Meanwhile here's a YouTube video that shows a successful upgrade working with the ten channel receiver that I have bought so it does appear to work ok. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I8ilTsO74lg Have you tried re-binding the tx to the new rx again after the update? Rob.
Hi Chris Sorry I don't have an answer for you but I also plan to do the same upgrade shortly. I already have the ia10b 10 chan receiver and mini din to usb cable from Hobbyking but I haven't got round to doing it yet. The YouTube videos seem to indicate that it's straightforward enough so I'm also curious as to why you have not been successful. I assume you have downloaded the latest firmware from the github.com site? Rob.
Hi Michael. You might want to consider enlarging the cut out in CF2 to allow you to get your hand easily into the interior of the cockpit. I think the small 'door' cut out will restrict access if you intend to detail this area with a wheel, throttles and instruments etc. And getting your hand inside is really helpful when it comes to glazing the windows. Apart from that it looks like a 'proper job' 👍 Robbob.
Coming along nicely Michael 👍. Tip. When continuing with the build blog use the 'Post New Build Update' (yellow button) at the top of your blog when adding a new update rather than 'replying' to your own posting, which is what I think you are doing. You can then give the update a title /description of your progress. The webmaster 'Fireboat' (aka Stephen) may be able to fix your postings before you post any more. Meanwhile keep up the good work😁. Rob.
Hi mturpin013. As javro says, welcome to the 'mad hatters' forum 🤠. A great choice of model for your return to model making👍. You will find the VMW kit is well thought out and uses good quality materials, the building instructions are a little lacking in some detail in places but judging by your qualifications you will clearly have very little difficulty building this kit to a high standard. I'll be following your build blog with great interest 😁. Robbob.
I can't do fast but I can do fastidious 😜 At best I can do a few hours one or two evenings a week and perhaps a whole day at the weekend. Work - life - hobby balance and all that, gotta keep swmbo happy 😉.