You will find that both AliExpress and Banggood offer more economical ESCs than Hobbyking.
I have used several of the Banggood “double sided” servos with good success. Not only do they work well there is no programming!
Available in a range of current ratings,
Suggest give them a shufti
Rowen

From my limited Tx experience; the two lever assemblies will be almost identical, except one has a spring.
Dismantle the Tx and gain access to the lever assemblies.

Either : remove the spring from the motor control lever, both will now operate without springs (which is how mine are). Or, fit a spring to the second lever and it should now feel similar to the other.
The necessary notches etc for the spring are probably already there.

On your Rx fit your second ESC control plug to the elevator output socket. That lever should now function as a motor speed control, even if not marked as such.

If you are using the ESC BECC power for your Rx remember to disconnect one of the positive red wires.
All fairly straightforward fortunately

Not exactly sure Martin!
Set off with a 450g target and, with battery, exceed that slightly with the waterline being a little low. The battery used is 115g.
Have purchased a smaller battery at 51g. Am hoping that weight saving will offset the future paint and superstructure.
At 450 target the waterline is a little low - easily corrected by moving the boottop line slightly
The reason am somewhat dubious about the weight is have carefully recorded every item from the respective spec. sheets and totalled them up at around 250g.
Using the kitchen scales though arrive at the 450 figure. Perhaps that is why my wifes curries are so powerful!
Until finished, think the 450 target is reasonable for this size and style of vessel.
Once done will review and summarize in a later blog.

The 40A ESCs, robbed from a future project, were used for the test runs referred to in the previous Blog. These ESCs are heavier than the 20A required, so replaced them to realize a weight saving as have now received the replacements
A future weight saving will be from fitting a lighter Li-Po cell. Will order one early next year to minimize deterioration during the winter.

All now installed and embarked on more test runs, also with trim tabs. The model performed flawlessly, it planes nicely and, with the trim tabs, nice and flat. The plastic couplings show no deterioration so have dropped any thoughts to replace them.

As I reflect on this first attempt to build a small, lightweight model one lesson stands out. The structure is quite traditional, so tried to fit a .020” thick styrene deck. Not the usual .060”, thinking this would save weight.
After two attempts to get the aperture sides straight without distortion and by then bracing with stiffening strips gave up.
The deck sides sagged slightly and it became difficult to get the removable access section correctly aligned.
Reverted to the thicker material which fitted perfectly and remained straight. Probably turned out lighter too as dispensed with strips and adhesive!

The practical sailing season in this part of Canada is drawing to a close.
Will now move towards finishing the model as am confident the powertrain works.
Future blogs will be limited to describing any significant steps that arise during this process

Think would start at the simplest thing-check your Tx/Rx binding.
For some inexplicable reason mine occasionally loose bind and it causes similar problems
Good luck

Fitted two more ESCs (these were purchased for another project and are 40 not 20A capacity) and motors. Fortunately, at this size, not frighteningly expensive.
Also found a 2mm x 2.3 mm steel shaft coupling on E Bay, ordered a pair. Due to the earlier failure, thought steel would prove a more robust approach.
Had no previous experience of the plastic sleeves used earlier and was confident steel would work.

Others have used plastic sleeves without problem though, decided to try another type first before switching them out. This was made of surgical tubing which is nice and flexible. Had to fit small plastic sleeves on the shafts to make up the difference in diameters.

Have used steel coupling on other projects, the major downside is noise. This can be reduced by sliding plastic tubing over the joint to stiffen and damp vibrations.
Will fit the steel ones if the next trials bring another plastic failure.

After this retrofit also loosely fitted the deck. Held this down with the Handyman’s secret weapon (duct tape) so it can be removed to improve access if more issues are found during the next test runs.
Quick test in the laundry tub showed everything was working.

Back to the outside pool and found that these new plastic sleeves worked fine. Decided not to replace them. They are certainly quieter and smoother than steel couplings.

Also confirmed the hull planed nicely on 2S, so fought off the temptation to use 3S again!

Although the battery used was overweight, it was adequate for test purposes. The waterline was slightly above the correct position, but with good trim.
Under power the hull planes well, but the bow eventually lifts excessively. Think this could be overcome with transom trim tabs. These were fitted originally, so would eventually add them anyway.
After about ¾ hour of mixed speed running the 2S 2000 mAh battery had lost about .2 volts. Can now confidently order a smaller capacity and lighter weight battery.

The next challenge was to ensure the weight distribution corresponded to the waterline, as do not want to add ballast.
Recently dispensed with a bath tub, so the indoor test tank has gone. Fortunately, at this size the hull fits nicely into a laundry sink. Was thus able to carry out trials and locate components to get the best balance. The attached pictures show the final layout.

As the hull and powertrain were assembled, thought might be opportune to do a test run in a small local pool. Using a 2S LiPo battery found that the hull planed nicely, but not dramatically.
Had a 3S battery handy, so thought might be worth trying. Not my smartest idea!

There was no deck fitted (to improve access) and was using plastic tubes as drive shaft couplings.
Certainly, planed really well, but the 3S battery overpowered the brushless motors. Inevitably one of the plastic couplings failed. The model continued to run on the one remaining screw, so this was not readily apparent.

When turning the unexpected occured.
The operating screw caused that rudder to lift the stern corner, causing the opposite bow to dig in. The hull immediately filled with water and sank; the pool is shallow so it was quickly retrieved.

Unfortunately, to meet the weight targets, the ESCs and motors used are designed for drones and aircraft, not marine. There are no pretensions of being suitable for wet operation.
Very carefully dried everything out, but to no avail.
The ESCs emitted the dreaded grey smoke with linked stench and failed. One of the phase wires also pulled out of each motor. The joint could have been overheated and weakened at 3S power.
Tried to repair everything, but was unsuccessful. Only remedy was replacement.

Thanks, useful advice. Will research them.
Rowen

Thanks Martin, good to see you back.
Was thinking on similar lines, you have confirmed those ideas.
This is really a project for winter so may be some while before can advise results

Contacted the Glass fibre supplier, who offered to mould a lighter hull, at around 100g. Ordered it and arrived promptly. Nice and light at 100g, but somewhat flexible. A thorough dimensional check showed a slight twist in the forepart.

Have found that a gentle application of heat, by electric heat gun, to GF will allow the shape to be worked and adjusted. Warmed the hull and twisted in the opposite direction to straighten it. This worked and the hull became true.
Was concerned that the twist might reappear over the months before can start the build, thus added a light bulkhead and bulwark stringers to hold in position. So far this has worked.
Now trimmed the bulwarks to shape and filled a small strip around their top edges to glue the deck down too.

Concerns over weight encouraged me to weigh every component physically. Biggest challenge came from the choice of brushless motors. An ESC is needed for each one. These are significantly the heaviest items, but have the best performance.
Surveyed scores of ECSs and motors trying to arrive at the lightest combination, but with best performance. Also had to compromise and omit an independent BEC power system to save weight, used the integral ESC one.
The propellors at this size are only available in plastic. Also had to make the shafts out of brass rod with an aluminium tube as could not readily find the more traditional stainless shaft with brass tube in the necessary sizes. Should also be nominally lighter,

Total weight of all these components, along with hull and bulkhead came to 270g.
This is rather less that the 450g target. Have a test 150g battery, which when installed, brings the model to the waterline. If this works well, hope to find a lighter battery with a similar capacity. Does confirm the 450g weight target appropriate.

Just hope the paint, glues and superstructure weight can be contained in the difference!

That has worked for me.
Might also suggest some heat might soften the adhesive holding the shaft in.
Good luck.

Agree with you.

To me the problem is not having a thread for Non hobby matters. That can be ignored - as I often do.

Seems that threads eventually tend to drift off topic as other items get included.
The thread then looses its relevance and serious modellers give up.

Thanks Chris,
Am starting to spend more and more time on the Modelboats mayhem site as there is a trove of informaton contained here. Often hard to find, but worth persevering.

The GA drawings are fine for my requirements, perhaps Garth, if he intends building from plans might want to explore that site.
Rowen

Hi Garth,
Do not have any plans as such, only GA drawings.

Hi Doug,
Nice to get your endorsement.
Yes, still around and beavering away on a couple of projects. The Scimitar and a Dark class FPB.

Have acquired a couple of waterjets, but they would overwhelm this hull. Am working to make them suitable for my plans with KaWeMe steering and reverse nozzles.

Future thoughts are to fit them to a Swedish Visby class corvette. Very little modelling information around on this vessel so am researching to get what is needed.
The project is months out anyway.

If anybody has any experience on this project, would appreciate a note.
Rowen

After the end of the war the Royal Navy decided to move from gasoline powered fast launches to diesel, to reduce fire risks.
The first major diesel powered boat class was the Dark, introduced in the mid1950s. These were powered by two Napier Deltic horizontally opposed, triangular layout two stroke diesels.

Shortly after this class was introduced it was determined the role of the Fast Patrol boat had been superseded by helicopters and aircraft. The Fast Patrol vessels were then gradually withdrawn.
To retain competence in the use of fast vessels, the RN commissioned three fast training boats (FTBs), the Scimitar class. This was the last high speed RN class of the era.
They were similar to the Brave in many ways. Both were built by Vosper and the lineage is evident. Rather than three Proteus gas turbines, they only had two, although with CODOG diesel units for slow speed operation. They were unarmed and designed to give R.N. crews experience in fast, coastal patrol boats.
The vessels could be armed and converted to three Proteus turbines if circumstances changed.

Our COVID lock-down hastened progress on my Dark class project, so have been trying to find another build for the coming winter. Have decided to model fast patrol type vessels for the time being. They are great fun on the water.

Would have liked to build a Scimitar Class FTB in around 1:32 scale, again using a GF hull from MTB Hulls, but that scale was not in their range. A GF hull is light and robust, well suited to these vessels. MTBHulls did offer a 1:72 scale hull, but that worked out around 16.5” long. Thought it would be too small for a working scale model.

Was in touch with a modeller in Australia who has made similar models. He also pointed out the number of successful “plastic magic” conversions of kits that are around this size. Obviously, it is achievable. Would give an unexpected change as the larger scale would have been similar to my recent Brave Borderer and R.A.F. RTTL projects.
The biggest challenge will be to keep the weight down to around 450g.

Looked an interesting and challenging project and at such a small scale one with plenty of potential for failure.

Well Nerys,
Always was a sucker for nice requests, particularly from Wales.
Let me pull my first thoughts together and post something later this week. At least it will get the ball rolling.
Rowen

Mike, you have persuaded me!
The site is too valuable to let die.

Going to write up my latest HMS Scimitar FTB project as a blog, be a short while before worth submitting.

Afraid I have rather lost interest in posting, although am still building avidly.
The site seems to have lost its focus and become just another Social Media outlet where all kinds of other topics are described.
Why not get back to our core strength and let the Facebooks etc serve the need for the unrelated topics?
Rowen

Interesting suggestion.can you recommend on for brushless motors and ESCs?
Thanks - could do with one myself

Good to see you back Doug
Rowen

Do not think your batteries are scrap. Think worth seeking out advice on recovery as have done it successfully.
Not familiar with your Huntress model; but on my 34" long brushless, triple screw Brave Borderer running on a 5000mAh 3S battery running at speed gives under 60 mins operating duration.
If you operating at near full speeds your run time is not unreasonable.
Do recommed using a battery discharge warning though. They work well, protect the cells and allow for max. duration operation.
Glad you are getting the hang of Li Pos, they do offer many advantages in higher speed models.

I do much the same.
Always use a cell discharge monitor whilst using a Li-Po. I usually set the warning to a minimum of 3.2 volts per cell.
After use, recharge to storage setting. The evening before use fully charge.
Always take the charging precautions and I never charge at more than 1.5 Amps.
Have an intelligent balance charger and am quiet satisfied with Li-Po batteries.

Sorry Stuart
www.rcgroups.com
Finger trouble
Rowen

www.regroups.com, look into forums and then by explore the site. Very interesting.
Am away all day, but will respond to any further questions this evening
Good luck
Rowen

Li-Pos that are over discharged can be carefully recovered. The technique is described on the RC Groups website and has worked for me.
Follow the precautions carefully though, the process itself is quite straightforward

Hi,
The things I have purchased seem to have been relatively price stable. Have found most things are usually cheaper than HK and the shipping better. The Banggood brushless ESCs are superior. Work straight from the box, no programming. So far, much more reliable.

Was very disappointed recently when purchased HK LI-PO battery charger. It was shipped by DHL and, upon arrival in Canada was slapped with significant DHL surcharge for processing! Never again.

Have used the Turnigy ones and been disappointed at the early life failures.
Have done much better with ones from Banggood - maybe the same ones in disguise though!

All good suggestions.
As this vessel was never made with a single screw, originally triple and then twin, why not rebuild the keel with fresh wood and convert to twin screws?
Have just completed a similar model, but using a GF hull. With twin screws it has good performance and stability.

Thanks. I understand they are alive and well.