There are several alternate batteries available.
LiPo has the best power density and the lightest weight.
For fast models LiPo is my choice. For slower and heavier vessels, such as tugs and merchant ships, there are more appropriate choices.

Good point Len.
Have removed my front seal so can get wires out without them being trapped and cut
Rowen

Hi Ken,
Not sure I added much information, but my rules are:
1) Always charge in a steel container (ex Ammo box)
2) Never leave unattended.
3) Use a balance charger.
4) Always charge at a low rate, in my case less than 1 amp.
5) Monitor for any heating
6) Have a fire extinguisher handy - not that many domestic ones will work on an intense chemical fire, but they might help with collateral damage.
Am sure others can add to them. Just common sense really.
Have also found that my older LiPos are now about 5 years old and still work well.
Cheers Rowen

Ouch!
Any sign of what might have caused it. Food for thought though.
Thanks Rowen

Can probably guess at the issue, but would appreciate a description of what happened. I use LiPos exclusively and am always trying to be aware of incidents and any corrective action.
Thanks
Rowen

Have had a Flysky 10 channel set for several years. So pleased that purchased more receivers and now converted almost all my fleet to it.
Several of my colleagues have bought them too, all with good results.

A contact in Australia put me onto a local decal manufacturer, who makes a sheet of decals for this model at this scale,
Decided, although could make up my own decals with a local manufacturer, by the time all was complete would have saved little. Would also have to produce the artwork myself.

Purchased a sheet from Australia in early Spring. It was in dry storage, in a sealed plastic packet until just before this blog was written. Suspect the months in storage might have caused a deterioration in the decal adhesive.
As it dried the occasional corner started lifting. Slipped a small amount of canopy glue using a craft knife into these areas and the problem was overcome.

Curious to know if others have found this issue with older decals.

Once the decals were fitted and the adhesive dried, coated the model in a matt clear aerosol spray. Apart from the obvious improvement to a more realistic finish, this reinforces the decal adhesive and seals from water ingress.

Have been postponing work on the gun, radar ranging aerial, main radar mast and rear deck fencing. These items are not straightforward to construct and will be covered in future blogs

Started to add the finishing touches.

First added the navigation lights. These are behind the masking tape on the forward superstructure in the second picture. Spent ages trying to decide where they were on the real ship and finally stumbled across a picture where they had been left on in daylight. The coloured lights could be discerned behind a clear lens designed to minimize radar reflections.

Decided to leave the radar support structure, radar and short mast off until the painting was complete. The wiring and switches had previously been fitted.

The dazzle camouflage paint pattern takes careful replicating. Would have been assisted by detailed plans, but these are not available so had to rely on internet pictures.
There are many pictures, however, the pattern dimensions have to be estimated. Ended up with quite a reasonable facsimile
Now painted, the model is starting to look interesting. Quite amazing what paint does for a model!

Like most warships, this class has evolved during service. There have been many changes to both profile and layout.
Decided the best information showed the final vessel, K35 “Karlstad” this appeared to include the updates. Adjusted the model to replicate her.

Yes Tora dog, just a simple on / off switch. Control the direction using the Tx lever function.
Rowen

A further note. A reversing on/off switch should also work fine.
My bow thruster does not have the power to require modulation anyway.
Rowen

Yes Tora dog, just a simple on / off switch. Control the direction using the Tx lever function.
Rowen

A Shapeways bow thruster unit was installed. I used the mid-size unit to replicate the size on the vessel.
It works well, but the amount of thrust generated is low and easily overpowered by windage. Would have been better to have used a larger version.

Have some ideas about using a larger motor to increase torque and reduce the speed drop when operating in water. Not likely to get this completed before next Spring though. Anyway. want to do all the other finishing touches first.
Also, used a cheap brushed ESC for the motor control as this is not a primary propulsion unit.
Found the modulation to be disappointingly poor. It immediately went from to speed forward or reverse and was difficult to settle at the mid, null point.
Rather than replace with a better item have used another Tx channel to provide a master switch for the bow thruster function.
After much investigation found the ESC was for brushed, but the motor was a small two wire brushless! Chinese websites are light on detail. Decided to leave as is. Cannot find a small, light brushless ESC and as it works best to leave along.

Now the sailing season is essentially over, time to get back to writing this blog.

Had a nagging suspicion the waterjets were still not quite right. Decided on another set of water tests to confirm.

First, as the lake was nice and still, left the model quietly floating by the dock for around 15 minutes to check for leaks. There was no water ingress from the jet installations!

Once underway, there was slight ingress from around the perspex panel installed in the inner stern. Nothing to be particularly concerned about as it was quickly drained with the bilge pump. See picture.
Will reseal when it is removed for finishing and painting this winter.

When observing the waterjets began to suspect one was still reversed. This might seem obvious but I use a single lever control for both motors, with the Tx Elevon control system. This makes establishing rotation difficult as the impellers are not visible.

It was. Anyway, easily corrected. The already acceptable performance has improved noticeably.

The jet performance is good and maneuverability using the nozzle steering controls only, quite satisfactory.

All need to do now is figure out a way to operate the reverse buckets automatically when the throttle control lever moves to the reverse part of the gate!

It is a Walton Thames ASR launch.
Built one in the early 70s from Model Boats service plans (predecessor to Sarik). Built it as the model had a huge cabin area and wanted to use it to experiment with different drives. Last sailed on pool near Barry with a 6V Volkswagen wiper motor for power. Worked well, but somewhat leisurely.
Cannot recall when disposed of, but it was prior to escaping the "white hot heat" of the technological revolution promised by Harold Wilson in 1975.

The BEC Rx input sockets are in parallel not series.

Am building a scale model of the last of current series of these corvettes.
Want to install navigation lights, but cannot see the port or starboard lights.
Does anybody know where they are placed?
Think the stealth concept has worked so well they are hidden!
Thanks

They are also available from Aliexpress. The prices there are reasonable
Rowen

The stink does dissipate over time, know from experience!

Now have several HobbyWing "QuikRun 30A" in service and have had no issues.

RN in Munich put me onto them - thanks Doug.

Sounds like the problem I had a while ago.
The standard Mtroniks brushed ESCs are not LiPo safe and thus burn out. The T10 range is though.
Solved the problem by moving to Hobbywing ESCs that work with LiPos. Also more economical.

Roy,
Just noticed your remark on the 2mm end float.
The jets I purchased have a spring on the shaft to ensure the movement is loaded in one direction, thus reducing the float.
Rowen

I have used 22 mm waterjets with solid drives on my Visby corvette. Had no issue with reliability so far.
The only issue is one of noise. Rather than sounding like a smooth gas turbine, it sounds like a high speed mangle.
Have thought about trying a coupling as you propose, but it means removing the impellor to get the shaft out.
That is not too daunting, but it will mean disturbing the outlet nozzle which has finally been sealed and is watertight.
Would like to hear of your experiences and thoughts when completed.
Rowen

I bought mine from Battlers Connection in Florida. East to match their hull with various plans.
Hull was accurate and made of heavy section glass fibre.
Rowen

Hi Roy,
Very interested in your project.
Am planning the Interceptor version of the Swedish CB90 as my winter project.
My version will be about 30" long and already have purchased 2 x 20mm waterjets without reverse. Will make my own reversers as need the clamshell not bucket style.
Which watch your endeavours with interest.
Rowen

Sorry to hear of your Mums death Doug.
Condolences from Canada
Rowen

Per Ardua ad Astra.
What a inspiration to us all

Glad resolved.
Rather suspect vertical misalignment might have become a factor. Be better off with a belt drive anyway, overcomes a multitude of issues.
Always great to get to the root cause of an issue, then we all learn.

Locktite can be released by the application of gentle heat to the joint. Usual precautions apply.

Find that cheap artists type paint brushes make a good base for a tapered mast

I have a couple of models using similar belt drives. They work very well and are nice, quiet and vibration free.
Think you could do with slightly longer belts. Mine are relatively loose and do not slip because of the internal belt teeth.

Hi JB,
Used them in my Visby and the performance is good. The instructions advised fitting the aluminium impellers when using 3S cells.
Original intention was to use 3S, until the trail runs showed 2S more than adequate. Left the impellers in as did not want to replace and then have leaks to resolve.
Service from the Tilkea shop supplier is also good.
Used the flap reversers and they work quite well, also resemble the Visby type reversers.
The CB90 reversers are a different style and, whilst am trying to make my own, can always fall back on these if unsuccessful.
Rowen

Thanks JB,
Good points. Luckily my diameters slowly increase from the waterjet nozzle outlet, hope will be no choking.

Will modify the inner nozzles as suggested. No point in directing water at the transom!

Used the following jets on my Visby as could accommodate them readily. They worked well, so plan on using them on this project, except with my own reversers

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H87446bf2ec6d4ac3acf9ed81e3d79316... b.

Cheers
Rowen

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H87446bf2ec6d4ac3acf9ed81e3d79316Q/22mm-Water-Jet-Boat-Pump-Spray-Water-Thruster-With-Reversing-System-22mm-Propeller-3mm-Shaft-w.jpg_Q90.jpg_.webp

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