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📝 Union flag.
12 hours ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen (
Captain)
Captain)✧ 30 Views · 3 Likes
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Cannot recall where I found the detail. Think it was from amalgamating the various plans and photos from the Internet.
Attached is my interpretation.
I also deduced the wheel was downstairs and instructions were passed to the helmsman.
Just had inspiration. 2757 is/was in the RAF Museum in London. Am sure a request to the curator might get you a picture. Wish I had tried just so would know am right!
Best
Rowen
Attached is my interpretation.
I also deduced the wheel was downstairs and instructions were passed to the helmsman.
Just had inspiration. 2757 is/was in the RAF Museum in London. Am sure a request to the curator might get you a picture. Wish I had tried just so would know am right!
Best
Rowen
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Rogal118
Colin H
dave976
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📝 Union flag.
15 hours ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 37 Views · 7 Likes
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Hi Roger,
Followed your Brave and Orca projects with interest.
Build my RTTL based on a MTBHulls hull.
As you can see turned out well and sails just as nicely.
Some what easier than the Brave because only twin motors.
Based mine on E2754 so the mahogany plank lines in the hull are omitted.
Best Rowen.
mds.b
Followed your Brave and Orca projects with interest.
Build my RTTL based on a MTBHulls hull.
As you can see turned out well and sails just as nicely.
Some what easier than the Brave because only twin motors.
Based mine on E2754 so the mahogany plank lines in the hull are omitted.
Best Rowen.
mds.b
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MartinW
Fred
dave976
luckyduck
Colin H
EdW
RNinMunich
📝 Union flag.
20 hours ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 43 Views · 1 Like
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Hi Roger - building a RTTL?
How did it turn out? I wrote a blog on mine
Rowen
How did it turn out? I wrote a blog on mine
Rowen
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Rogal118
📝 Question of the Day?
1 month ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 52 Views · 1 Like
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Questions are fine, just the right answer does not relate to them!
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DGoss999
📝 Question of the Day?
1 month ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 49 Views · 4 Likes
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Grace Darling lighthouse is the Longstone lighthouse. Lindisfarne is considered one of the Farne islands.
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Colin H
DuncanP
RNinMunich
AustinG
📝 Question of the Day?
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 48 Views · 2 Likes
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SS Great Britain was iron not steel.
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Colin H
Doogle
📝 DUKW
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 47 Views · 4 Likes
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Thanks JB, plenty to noodle on now!
Let me do some thinking and will advise what I arrive at.
Appreciate all your help
Rowen
Let me do some thinking and will advise what I arrive at.
Appreciate all your help
Rowen
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Scratchbuilder
pressonreguardless
hermank
Colin H
📝 DUKW
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 60 Views · 0 Likes
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Thanks Roger,
At this stage do not know what I do not know!
Every little helps as I gather my thoughts.
Never heard it called a "Superdukw" before either. Nice closed cab version though.
At this stage do not know what I do not know!
Every little helps as I gather my thoughts.
Never heard it called a "Superdukw" before either. Nice closed cab version though.
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📝 DUKW
2 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 60 Views · 1 Like
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Hi JB,
Read your blog with interest, it seems could readily adapt the drivetrain to my DUKW plans.
Note we both use Tilkea model shop on Aliexpress and, as their products are competitively priced, would like to plan my model around them.
If this is the case what wheels, tyres and axles did you use, and what scale are they?
That scale may determine the scale of my model.
From the various accounts have read it seems the load capability is quite generous so a smaller scale that 12 might be better. Certainly be easier to move around.
Very much appreciate your guidance. Sorting out the running gear alone is going to be interesting!
Best
Rowen
Read your blog with interest, it seems could readily adapt the drivetrain to my DUKW plans.
Note we both use Tilkea model shop on Aliexpress and, as their products are competitively priced, would like to plan my model around them.
If this is the case what wheels, tyres and axles did you use, and what scale are they?
That scale may determine the scale of my model.
From the various accounts have read it seems the load capability is quite generous so a smaller scale that 12 might be better. Certainly be easier to move around.
Very much appreciate your guidance. Sorting out the running gear alone is going to be interesting!
Best
Rowen
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dave976
📝 Swedish 16M
3 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 21 Views · 1 Like
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Consigned yet another useless micro servo to my pile of failed electrical items.
Noticed that pile also far exceeds the standard servo pile! Decided they are not worth the trouble.
Will cope with the installation challenges of using standard size ones in future.
Replaced the two micro servos with standard items. Quite a few minor modifications were required. Noticed the control response is very different. The reaction of the micro servos is much quicker than standard, but the standard movement more deliberate.
Quite fast enough for this application though, the reverse function is not that effective anyway.
Cut the transom flap overhang down by almost 50% and decided to reinforce the adhesive with a couple of small bolts to avoid coming off in operation.
The end result is good. The bow now lifts slightly on a full plane as the stern is no longer sucked down.
With the wisdom of hindsight, would have been better to have chosen a lightly larger scale. The model is incomplete yet the hull displacement already approaches the upper edge of the boot topping.
Guess have a weight problem, something more widespread than this vessel though!
Have some minor modifications planned and will complete the model over our winter. The grey colour chosen is not appropriate for a luxury yacht, am toying with a change.
Will continue this blog once have restarted work.
Noticed that pile also far exceeds the standard servo pile! Decided they are not worth the trouble.
Will cope with the installation challenges of using standard size ones in future.
Replaced the two micro servos with standard items. Quite a few minor modifications were required. Noticed the control response is very different. The reaction of the micro servos is much quicker than standard, but the standard movement more deliberate.
Quite fast enough for this application though, the reverse function is not that effective anyway.
Cut the transom flap overhang down by almost 50% and decided to reinforce the adhesive with a couple of small bolts to avoid coming off in operation.
The end result is good. The bow now lifts slightly on a full plane as the stern is no longer sucked down.
With the wisdom of hindsight, would have been better to have chosen a lightly larger scale. The model is incomplete yet the hull displacement already approaches the upper edge of the boot topping.
Guess have a weight problem, something more widespread than this vessel though!
Have some minor modifications planned and will complete the model over our winter. The grey colour chosen is not appropriate for a luxury yacht, am toying with a change.
Will continue this blog once have restarted work.
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hermank
📝 DUKW
3 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 65 Views · 2 Likes
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Thanks JB.
Great suggestion, will read that blog again with interest.
My preference is the 6 wheel version anyway as climbed one one like that in my childhood.
Great suggestion, will read that blog again with interest.
My preference is the 6 wheel version anyway as climbed one one like that in my childhood.
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jbkiwi
stevedownunder
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📝 DUKW
3 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 79 Views · 3 Likes
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Thanks Jack, that is very helpful. The hull shape is simpler than imagined.
Rowen
Rowen
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Colin H
Doogle
Scratchbuilder
📝 DUKW
3 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 77 Views · 8 Likes
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Am thinking of building a DUKW model for my next project. Planning around 12 scale - 30” long.
Has anybody tried one of these and what are the best plans to use?
Thanks Rowen
Has anybody tried one of these and what are the best plans to use?
Thanks Rowen
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jbkiwi
boatmam
RodC
dave976
Colin H
Doogle
Rogal118
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💬 Re: How many model boats are symmetrical.
3 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 37 Views · 2 Likes
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Have built several models from plans.
I always check accuracy throughout the build by reversing templates, then using measurements and squares etc.
The moment of truth is when the frames are all built up, draw around the bulwarks. Turn the model over and, if lucky, the two silhouettes are similar.
If not, this is the time to investigate and rectify before it is too late.
I always check accuracy throughout the build by reversing templates, then using measurements and squares etc.
The moment of truth is when the frames are all built up, draw around the bulwarks. Turn the model over and, if lucky, the two silhouettes are similar.
If not, this is the time to investigate and rectify before it is too late.
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Nickthesteam
Scratchbuilder
📝 Swedish 16M
3 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 28 Views · 4 Likes
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Made up a pair of simple, bent alloy transom flaps. Fitted them under the rear stern of the hull using double sided adhesive tape.
Had limited experience of determining the correct operating angle, so guessed at 20 degrees from horizontal. Tried the hull out again and these flaps definitely control the bow lifting. So much so, at full speed, it digs in and now resembles a displacement hull!
Obviously the 20degree angle is excessive, examined the installation carefully and also wonder if the self-adhesive tape thickness (about 30 thou.) is exaggerating the lift force.
Decided to make up two more flaps that are almost flat and fit them to the hull with a smear of silicone. This should be quite thin, yet easy to cut if more adjustments are required. Tried this arrangement and the bow lifting is much reduced. The hull remains almost flat as the speed increases.
The pictures of the actual vessel show the bow does lift, so am going to reduce the size of the flaps to limit the down thrust.
Attached are several photos. Will upload them chronologically, they illustrate these efforts. Pictures 3 and 7 show the reduced lift best.
Unfortunately, one of the reverse servos has now failed, need to fit a replacement before testing can continue.
Once corrected, plan to retest using smaller tabs to should reduce downforce slightly.
Had limited experience of determining the correct operating angle, so guessed at 20 degrees from horizontal. Tried the hull out again and these flaps definitely control the bow lifting. So much so, at full speed, it digs in and now resembles a displacement hull!
Obviously the 20degree angle is excessive, examined the installation carefully and also wonder if the self-adhesive tape thickness (about 30 thou.) is exaggerating the lift force.
Decided to make up two more flaps that are almost flat and fit them to the hull with a smear of silicone. This should be quite thin, yet easy to cut if more adjustments are required. Tried this arrangement and the bow lifting is much reduced. The hull remains almost flat as the speed increases.
The pictures of the actual vessel show the bow does lift, so am going to reduce the size of the flaps to limit the down thrust.
Attached are several photos. Will upload them chronologically, they illustrate these efforts. Pictures 3 and 7 show the reduced lift best.
Unfortunately, one of the reverse servos has now failed, need to fit a replacement before testing can continue.
Once corrected, plan to retest using smaller tabs to should reduce downforce slightly.
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pressonreguardless
hermank
Scratchbuilder
Colin H
📝 Swedish 16 M
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 43 Views · 8 Likes · 1 Comment
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The moment of truth!
Weather has improved, decided to try the unfinished hull with an open water test.
The home made reverse & steering nozzle performance was disappointing. They function in theory and move significant amounts of water. The dimensions of the model though restrict the range of movements necessary to ensure full steering and reverse operation.
These restrictions cause significant disruptions to flow impeding performance and manoeuverability.
JBKIWI offered some words of advice and suggestions following his experience with waterjets. Spent some time trying to figure out how they could be incorporated, but the size restrictions still restrict performance unacceptably.
Have decided to install bucket style nozzles to get some testing in over the summer. Might resurrect the original nozzles next winter and experiment with the necessary modifications.
The flow is much better with these nozzles and a plane can be easily achieved. The hull sits level at rest, but at speed the bow lifts excessively. The performance is good.
Considering the forces generated by a waterjet. The input flow tends to pull the stern down, lifting the bow.
The bow on this vessel is higher than the stern, probably due to its military heritage. This is exaggerated in the last picture, as does the perspective. Think it needs to be lower though.
See pictures
Going to experiment with some simple, fixed transom flaps to increase the upwards force and level the hull
Weather has improved, decided to try the unfinished hull with an open water test.
The home made reverse & steering nozzle performance was disappointing. They function in theory and move significant amounts of water. The dimensions of the model though restrict the range of movements necessary to ensure full steering and reverse operation.
These restrictions cause significant disruptions to flow impeding performance and manoeuverability.
JBKIWI offered some words of advice and suggestions following his experience with waterjets. Spent some time trying to figure out how they could be incorporated, but the size restrictions still restrict performance unacceptably.
Have decided to install bucket style nozzles to get some testing in over the summer. Might resurrect the original nozzles next winter and experiment with the necessary modifications.
The flow is much better with these nozzles and a plane can be easily achieved. The hull sits level at rest, but at speed the bow lifts excessively. The performance is good.
Considering the forces generated by a waterjet. The input flow tends to pull the stern down, lifting the bow.
The bow on this vessel is higher than the stern, probably due to its military heritage. This is exaggerated in the last picture, as does the perspective. Think it needs to be lower though.
See pictures
Going to experiment with some simple, fixed transom flaps to increase the upwards force and level the hull
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stevedownunder
pressonreguardless
GaryLC
jbkiwi
Scratchbuilder
RNinMunich
Colin H
hermank
📝 Rawdon Model Boat Club Open Day 10/06/2023
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 50 Views · 3 Likes
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Nice spot, used to sail my Merlin Rocket there in the olden days!!
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MikeC3
chugalone100
dave976
📝 Swedish 16M
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 53 Views · 4 Likes
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The hull is now fair and prime painted. Decided to try it in a water tank to test for leaks, check ballast, waterjet impeller and reverse operation.
The usual adjustments quickly concluded the ballast and jet rotation questions. There was a couple of leaks around one jet mounting. Easily resolved with silicon seal.
The clamshell nozzles do not to give as much reverse thrust as the bucket style.
As the test tank is very limited in size and shallow, not sure how they will operate in open water.
The ice is now retreating on the Lake Ontario so hope to find out shortly.
The inner jet outlets are also directed towards the centre of the transom, reducing their effectiveness.
At least am now forewarned of the problem and can fit bucket style reverser units if required.
The usual adjustments quickly concluded the ballast and jet rotation questions. There was a couple of leaks around one jet mounting. Easily resolved with silicon seal.
The clamshell nozzles do not to give as much reverse thrust as the bucket style.
As the test tank is very limited in size and shallow, not sure how they will operate in open water.
The ice is now retreating on the Lake Ontario so hope to find out shortly.
The inner jet outlets are also directed towards the centre of the transom, reducing their effectiveness.
At least am now forewarned of the problem and can fit bucket style reverser units if required.
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Scratchbuilder
hermank
Double Rum
Colin H
📝 Swedish 16 M Interceptor
4 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 56 Views · 3 Likes
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Decided a hull of about 30” O/L should make a nice model, based upon my Visby experience.
Had plans printed using drawings from the web and, although somewhat pixelated, they are usable. Made the hull as a typical frame and strip style with a thin plywood skin.
It presented no unusual problems, made up using various plywood thicknesses and basswood strip.
The deck edge support strip was made up of ¼” square basswood up to the area when the bow curve begins. Have done this before, not usually very well.
Decided to try to laminate this forward section using a 1/32 bass wood strip and, whilst the wood still requires bending, it turned out superior.
Did most of the bending by saturating the wood in ammonia. Shaping around a curved pattern, followed by drying with a heat gun. Once the shape was achieved laminated the next strip to it with CA glue. This proved much easier than trying to bend a full section strip.
The finished result has the correct curvature and is robust.
Find the ultimate test of bow curvature is to turn the hull over and see if both sides fit the plan. To my relief they did!
Once the outer skins were fitted and blended into a smooth shape, was unhappy with the chine.
This vessel has a chine strip onto which the bottom and upper skins fit. The strip has a land (about 3/16” wide) on the outer underside, the outer corner of which blends into the upper skin.
This is similar to the one on my Daman 4207 model. Seems to be a development of the traditional chine strip. However, it is difficult to obtain a sharp corner as it is easy to round off the edge with the repetitive sanding needed to make a clean land.
Decided to try another approach. Once the skins were fitted and the land established, CA glued a thin metal wire onto the lower corner of the upper skin.
Could then blend the wire into the bottom skin using epoxy, leaving a clean corner on the upper skin. This has the added benefit of truing up the corner. The pictures show the general idea.
Not sure how robust the wire edge will prove to be, but it is nice and sharp.
So far, has survived much emery cloth smoothing without any separation!
The Interceptor and VIP vessels have slightly different chines. The Interceptor does not have one, but there in a small one on the VIP version.
As have decided to build that version, added a thin styrene strip to inside of the wire chine edge to reproduce it.
Had plans printed using drawings from the web and, although somewhat pixelated, they are usable. Made the hull as a typical frame and strip style with a thin plywood skin.
It presented no unusual problems, made up using various plywood thicknesses and basswood strip.
The deck edge support strip was made up of ¼” square basswood up to the area when the bow curve begins. Have done this before, not usually very well.
Decided to try to laminate this forward section using a 1/32 bass wood strip and, whilst the wood still requires bending, it turned out superior.
Did most of the bending by saturating the wood in ammonia. Shaping around a curved pattern, followed by drying with a heat gun. Once the shape was achieved laminated the next strip to it with CA glue. This proved much easier than trying to bend a full section strip.
The finished result has the correct curvature and is robust.
Find the ultimate test of bow curvature is to turn the hull over and see if both sides fit the plan. To my relief they did!
Once the outer skins were fitted and blended into a smooth shape, was unhappy with the chine.
This vessel has a chine strip onto which the bottom and upper skins fit. The strip has a land (about 3/16” wide) on the outer underside, the outer corner of which blends into the upper skin.
This is similar to the one on my Daman 4207 model. Seems to be a development of the traditional chine strip. However, it is difficult to obtain a sharp corner as it is easy to round off the edge with the repetitive sanding needed to make a clean land.
Decided to try another approach. Once the skins were fitted and the land established, CA glued a thin metal wire onto the lower corner of the upper skin.
Could then blend the wire into the bottom skin using epoxy, leaving a clean corner on the upper skin. This has the added benefit of truing up the corner. The pictures show the general idea.
Not sure how robust the wire edge will prove to be, but it is nice and sharp.
So far, has survived much emery cloth smoothing without any separation!
The Interceptor and VIP vessels have slightly different chines. The Interceptor does not have one, but there in a small one on the VIP version.
As have decided to build that version, added a thin styrene strip to inside of the wire chine edge to reproduce it.
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hermank
ARL58
Colin H
📝 Swedish 16M
5 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 60 Views · 7 Likes · 3 Comments
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Have found several water jets with steering and reverse capability, using buckets. Have not found one, in this size range, that offers “clamshell” type reversers with steering.
The clamshells are mounted separately from the steering nozzles, unlike the bucket style. So, when the nozzle is steered with the clamshells lowered, the water is directed towards that side of the nozzle. This can give the vessel good manoeuverability.
Decided to try see how these could be replicated.
After the usual scratting around with offcuts of plastic pipe realized, using regular copper plumbing fittings, the basic layout could be achieved. When the excess copper was cut away, the shape was replicated. The remaining pieces were then soldered together to form the clamshell unit.
Mounted this to the waterjet nozzle, which had earlier been fitted with a swivelling copper pipe reducer to form the steering nozzle. All the functions were then replicated.
The final picture shows the complete unit on a dummy half transom. Still needs some fettling and the linkages working out. The general idea is evident though.
Having made all my mistakes on this first unit, making the second was a pleasure!
Once the hull is made, will fit two of these units to the stern. Can then apply the final touches, install linkages and all should work - Inshallah!
If it does not, will revert to the bucket style as have spare units.
The clamshells are mounted separately from the steering nozzles, unlike the bucket style. So, when the nozzle is steered with the clamshells lowered, the water is directed towards that side of the nozzle. This can give the vessel good manoeuverability.
Decided to try see how these could be replicated.
After the usual scratting around with offcuts of plastic pipe realized, using regular copper plumbing fittings, the basic layout could be achieved. When the excess copper was cut away, the shape was replicated. The remaining pieces were then soldered together to form the clamshell unit.
Mounted this to the waterjet nozzle, which had earlier been fitted with a swivelling copper pipe reducer to form the steering nozzle. All the functions were then replicated.
The final picture shows the complete unit on a dummy half transom. Still needs some fettling and the linkages working out. The general idea is evident though.
Having made all my mistakes on this first unit, making the second was a pleasure!
Once the hull is made, will fit two of these units to the stern. Can then apply the final touches, install linkages and all should work - Inshallah!
If it does not, will revert to the bucket style as have spare units.
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hermank
ARL58
RNinMunich
Scratchbuilder
flaxbybuck
Colin H
River Rat
📝 Swedish 16 M
5 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 88 Views · 10 Likes
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Readers of my HSwMS Visby blog will be aware the model is complete and operating well.
Was quite happy spending last Summer just sailing models; that was until JBKIWI wrote a forum entry introducing the Swedish CB90 class of waterjet propelled fast assault class! Sparked my imagination.
After some research, found the base hull has been developed into a number of forms, including attractive “Interceptor” and VIP vessels.
The hull is of a hard chine style and should not present any unusual challenges. The waterjets are not the same as the Visby, in that the reverse/steering function is different. From experience with the Visby, consider a reverse capability essential.
Decided to use the same base 20mm waterjet units as the Visby. They power a hull in the 30 – 40” O/L range nicely. My preferred size. They also work well and do not leak. Problems friends have encountered with other units.
This offered two approaches, one use “modellers license” and fit the same bucket style units as on the Visby. The other was to use the base waterjet unit, but make up the correct Kamewa “clamshell” style reverse /steering units. These were not available through the jet supplier.
Was quite happy spending last Summer just sailing models; that was until JBKIWI wrote a forum entry introducing the Swedish CB90 class of waterjet propelled fast assault class! Sparked my imagination.
After some research, found the base hull has been developed into a number of forms, including attractive “Interceptor” and VIP vessels.
The hull is of a hard chine style and should not present any unusual challenges. The waterjets are not the same as the Visby, in that the reverse/steering function is different. From experience with the Visby, consider a reverse capability essential.
Decided to use the same base 20mm waterjet units as the Visby. They power a hull in the 30 – 40” O/L range nicely. My preferred size. They also work well and do not leak. Problems friends have encountered with other units.
This offered two approaches, one use “modellers license” and fit the same bucket style units as on the Visby. The other was to use the base waterjet unit, but make up the correct Kamewa “clamshell” style reverse /steering units. These were not available through the jet supplier.
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dave976
jbkiwi
River Rat
RNinMunich
Colin H
johnf
Rogal118
RodC
hermank
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📝 Wood Strip Bending
6 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 16 Views · 0 Likes
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I am struggling to bend stripwood for the handrails for my current build. The boat is 1/24 and at least two of the bends are quite sharp.
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris,
My suggestion is once the plank is steamed it must be fastened in place immediately or as you said it will straighten out.
Trev
I have had similar problems and found the best solution is. Once, the wood is saturated and bent, dry it with a heat gun.
Mahogany will retain a shape similar to the bent shape. It can then be CA glued into place. Working it to final shape as the glue sets
Rowen
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris,
My suggestion is once the plank is steamed it must be fastened in place immediately or as you said it will straighten out.
Trev
I have had similar problems and found the best solution is. Once, the wood is saturated and bent, dry it with a heat gun.
Mahogany will retain a shape similar to the bent shape. It can then be CA glued into place. Working it to final shape as the glue sets
Rowen
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📝 Wood Strip Bending
6 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 16 Views · 0 Likes
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I am struggling to bend stripwood for the handrails for my current build. The boat is 1/24 and at least two of the bends are quite sharp.
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris,
My suggestion is once the plank is steamed it must be fastened in place immediately or as you said it will straighten out.
Trev
I have had similar problems and found the best solution is. Once, the wood is saturated and bent, dry it with a heat gun.
Mahogany will retain a shape similar the the bent shape. It can then be CA glued into place. Working it to final shape as the glue sets
Rowen
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris,
My suggestion is once the plank is steamed it must be fastened in place immediately or as you said it will straighten out.
Trev
I have had similar problems and found the best solution is. Once, the wood is saturated and bent, dry it with a heat gun.
Mahogany will retain a shape similar the the bent shape. It can then be CA glued into place. Working it to final shape as the glue sets
Rowen
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📝 Wood Strip Bending
6 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 16 Views · 0 Likes
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I am struggling to bend stripwood for the handrails for my current build. The boat is 1/24 and at least two of the bends are quite sharp.
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris,
My suggestion is once the plank is steamed it must be fastened in place immediately or as you said it will straighten out.
Trev
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
Hi Chris,
My suggestion is once the plank is steamed it must be fastened in place immediately or as you said it will straighten out.
Trev
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This member will receive 1 point
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📝 Wood Strip Bending
6 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 16 Views · 0 Likes
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I am struggling to bend stripwood for the handrails for my current build. The boat is 1/24 and at least two of the bends are quite sharp.
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
I have been struggling with 3mm x 5mm mahogany and holding in a jig after both steaming and soaking in very hot water. I achieve the required bend but after a few hours the wood springs back significantly.
Walnut has been suggested as it has a better "memory" than mahogany which has no "memory" at all.
Please any suggestions.
Regards ChrisG
▲
⟩⟩
No likes yet
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
This member will receive 1 point
for every like received
📝 Adding A Fuse To The Electrics
6 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 44 Views · 6 Likes
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From experience, my Brave Borderer blog recounts how this was gained:
The tubular glass fuses blow immediately their capacity is reached.
That is fine for brushed motors, but brushless can have high transient currents that cause instantaneous failure.
Have found the automotive blade type handle these currents and still offer protection. They have "slow blow" characteristics.
With brushless, I always power each motor independently to avoid a single fuse taking all the load.
The tubular glass fuses blow immediately their capacity is reached.
That is fine for brushed motors, but brushless can have high transient currents that cause instantaneous failure.
Have found the automotive blade type handle these currents and still offer protection. They have "slow blow" characteristics.
With brushless, I always power each motor independently to avoid a single fuse taking all the load.
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firefighter
dave976
RodC
hermank
Colin H
Rogal118
💬 Re: Orca a maiden voyage
7 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 245 Views · 3 Likes
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Looks great Roger
R
R
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hermank
Rogal118
rikster67
📝 Message Section not working
7 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 75 Views · 2 Likes
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Hi Nick,
That sounds like my problem as cannot reply to you.
Anyway, not here yet. No problem though. Just received an envelope from Cornwall MB, ordered and shipped in October!
Think Canada Post has met its
match with the GPO
Thanks again
Rowen
That sounds like my problem as cannot reply to you.
Anyway, not here yet. No problem though. Just received an envelope from Cornwall MB, ordered and shipped in October!
Think Canada Post has met its
match with the GPO
Thanks again
Rowen
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Colin H
Nickthesteam
📝 Bilge pumps
7 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 68 Views · 4 Likes
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Used a garden spray pump, 6V and self priming, controlled by RC switch. Works well
Used it on a twin waterjet model that was difficult to seal.
Even then, not that much water ingress so unsure worth the trouble.
Used it on a twin waterjet model that was difficult to seal.
Even then, not that much water ingress so unsure worth the trouble.
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Len1
ToraDog
dave976
Colin H
💬 Re: Hull skinning and priming
8 months ago by 🇨🇦 Rowen ( Captain)
Captain)✧ 52 Views · 2 Likes
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Have previously finished hulls with a layer of glass fibre cloth and epoxy. Then smoothed it all down.
What are the groups thoughts on this technique as will be doing another hull shortly?
It is very labour intensive.
What are the groups thoughts on this technique as will be doing another hull shortly?
It is very labour intensive.
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Colin H
pressonreguardless
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