TRy Sarik Plans MM1322 Keenoma
Roy

Nice model, well done. Can you tell us how long the dory is?
Roy

Hi Skippydrew, is that a Walton on Thames Air Sea rescue boat as your avatar? Are you aware of the history behind it?
Roy

Hi if you use thinner wood than the plans allow for, the boat will not be the right size. You will need to pad out the bulkheads to allow for the difference in width if the model.
Roy

Hi I am sure you are right, always found the different versions confusing.
Roy

Hi all this model was scratch built using the free plan Sparkler as the basis. She is just over 16 inches long and has a 380 geared down 1 : 2.
Unfortunately she was over-powered and on 6 cells only has 2 or 3 inches of the hull is in the water. I have slowed her down a bit but it is difficult to ballance the hull. Either the hull is climbing a hill or just splashing through the water. I built her in 1986 so she is getting on a bit. The pulpit is brass tubing and painted silver. The perspex wrap round screen was fractured a while ago and left for several years, then I decided to replace it and it is fine now.
Roy

Hi is this 40Mhtz AM? Just guessing from what I can see of the rx. crystal.

The collectors like the previous generation better, but good luck!
Roy

This is another Mary Ann, I bought her off ebay after a good negotiation to lower the price. She was built as a decorative model quite attractive but again many problems. All the glueing was minimal and I just lifted off the cabin!
I stripped her completely and drilled into the deck to get an opening for the engine and RC. I grasped the side gallows to pull them off expecting brass they were delicate laser cut wood! So a recent model! I had a spare brass pair and that is what is on her now.

The prop and shaft are just a short push in dummy! So a new shaft hole was opened up, I did an initial fit of motor and prop and into the bath, luckily I did not walk away! I watched the water coming in. This took a while to sort out and I had to open up the forward bulkhead which was sealed in. I poured in varnish and swilled it around and then poured the residue out. After drying I found the main leak and as I was not going to re-do the planking and I remembered seeing a fishing boat drawn up on the beach and it had additional planks nailed on, I presume repair leaks. So I did the same.

She is a different colour as these fishing boats should be white hulled, this is because both of the Mary Anns work from a single 4 ch. Tx. (reference Admiralty Naval Intelligence November 1942)

This I have found may need a more alert brain than mine to do successfully! The right stick, no problem but the left (hand and) stick do not give the right rudder movements when coming towards me. My left hand needs re-educating.

I found the father and 2 sons crew lurking in my garage and after I got them new gear here they are.
Roy

Lilla Dan but not as you might know her! She is an extended version 36 inches stern to bowsprit. The hull is a Graupner Elke fishing boat hull. The plans were kindly sent by Billing 20 odd years ago.

However I am the new owner as she was built by my late friend John Cook. I bought her earlier in 2022 and did an update on the insides and renewed all the rigging, which took quite a while and rather than serve the lower parts of the shrouds I used white heatshrink electrical insulation.
She needs a good breeze to sail and really hates tacking through the wind and wearing ship can lose all you gained previously. However my daughter in law got her to go very nicely.
Roy

Hi I enquired what was in a wood kit from Sarik and they said all the parts shown as outlines in the plan. I ordered it and when I opened the package I thought it a good bargain.
Sometimes on a plan the transom if angled is shown as a projection, is it a curved one? Get a piece of ply the same section as the hull sides just put in place when hull is constructed and draw round it for size.
regards
Roy

Hi, looking at your hull I see that the rudder is at a considerable angle. I have an Americas Cup yacht also with this sort of angle of rudder stock.

You must keep the yacht as upright as possible to retain control as when the wind heels you over to 30 degrees or so the rudder is no longer any good for direction.

It is now almost flat with waterflow and acts like the elevator on the tail of an aircraft. So it is trying to drive the yacht up or down and not left or right.

The way round this is to have removeable sails like staysails to reduce wind pressure on the sails and allow the hull to sail more upright.
Its a real bummer and my Endeavour only goes out in light winds.
Roy

Hello dave976 you are looking at the heeling moment in a static condition. In a well designed hull especially an apple cross section as the wind increases which heels the hull over the 'in wedge' of the hull increases.

This means that the yacht is trying to rise so the whole weight of the yacht will try and right the hull and this gives more stability.

I have an old Norderney Graupner sailing fishing boat and this has internal ballast and a very small 'drop' keel it is now fixed and contains a small amount of lead but no separate weight.

It heels over in a light wind but as the speed of the wind increases it only heels a litttle more. It is noticeable that she could do with a larger keel area, but she works OK and stays looking scale because of it.
Roy

Hi all, if you read my bit on finding the CLR and wonder why, the nearest analogy I can think of is this.

Someone is sitting in a swivel chair on wheels, feet off the ground and you want to push the chair with a broom handle. There is just one place where the chair will go forward all the rest will spin the chair one way or the other.

Does that make the point?
Roy

Hi Ron in addition to my last post I think your sails are not balanced correctly. As the wind increases the hull should heel over more but stay on the same course.
I note you say 1.6 lbs wind force it is just 1 lb in the U.K. Have you got any snow in your wind?😁😁
Roy

Hi, you need a little more information derived from the sail dimensions you mention.
You need to know the combined area of the sails and where this area is centred. This is called the centre of area! OK so far? Look it up if in doubt it is simple.

This point is measured down to the waterline and the measurement noted, I use inches!

Now put the yacht in the water and on a windless day or better still in the bath and see if you can find the point on the hull where you can push the hull sideways and it does not fall off to left or right but keeps going sideways. I stick some decorators tape on the side of the hull and mark with a pencil. This is very easy do not despair, we are nearly there!

I use pounds as well! With the wind blowing at 20 mph it exerts a force of 1 pound on 1 square foot of sail!

Allow for this as the most you will be sailing in. Reduce the sail area from square inches to square feet and note this number.

Multiply the square foot area by the distance straight down from the centre of effort to the waterline. This number is the key to the weight of the keel.

Supposing the numbers are 12 inches and 4 square feet then this comes to 48. If you place the weight 10 inches down you will need 4.8 pounds in weight for the keel. Another option might be the weight at 8 inches down from the waterline and this needs 6 pounds of weight.

Now with this information you can improve the sailing of your yacht. Measure the waterline length and note the centre of lateral resistance (where you poked with your finger).

The centre of effort of the combined sail are shound be 4% or 1/25 of the waterline length ahead of the finger poke spot.

The above will give you a sweet sailing boat that tacks like a dream.

For keel area water is 800 times more dense than air so use the minimum keel area to stop the yacht going sideways while tacking.
If you have a long keel hull then if building perhaps extend the lines down a bit but that is another story!

Persevere and it will work!
Roy
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Hi you must be finding better coffee sticks than I have!

For commercial boats the planking is straight all the way. You should allow for a curved single plank around the hull curvature.

In full size terms this would be about 3 - 4 inches wide and slightly lower in height than the deck planks, I should ignore this. It is what might be called the gutter plank and often any stanchions are located there.

For leisure class of boats and particularly yachts the planking is curved and follows the line of the hull. There is usually a centre line 'King Plank' at maybe double the width of the deck planks and often contrasting in colour.

The deck planks 'joggle' into this as they terminate. Check on the Internet for the way the joggle is cut if you need to.

Hope this helps
Roy

Hi not sure how long your deck planks are but I had a similar problem with a lot of planks. I made a sanding jig.

What I did was to get 2 old metal rulers and a suitable length of planking clamped thicknesswise and at 4mm depth, leaving a level 4 mm U section for placing planks to be reduced.
I used clamps at the ends and the centre section was clamped in a vice, so securely holding the jig together.
Insert the plank in the groove and sand or cut to size. Check the first one out is correct width as well!
It worked for me and I hope this helps.
regards
Roy

Although I had been dinghy sailing on and off in the mid 1950s, my interest was inspired by a book from the local library called 'Trekka round the world' by John Guzzwell. His adventures in a home built 20 foot long sailing boat.
It is an excellent read and this was in 1967!
Roy

Have you managed to recruit a crew yet? I had terrible trouble with one of my fishing boats, loads of interviews but some were too tall and others could'nt move their arms.
One interviewee said the hours were dreadful with no time off and we hardly ever go fishing anyway!
Managed to get a family together eventually, I will ask them if I can take a photo for posting.
It's not as if I am a certain Mr. Musk either, as there is no signal out there for laptops anyway!

Roy

I live and learn, almost every day, just found the recipe for the Tater Tot casserole. In UK the 'tater tots' are sold as mini-crispy potatoes.
Roy

Hello looks great I love Tow boats. Is this the standard fixed 2 Korts, each with 3 rudders?
Roy

Hi, nice to know the modellers are out there. My German used to get me around but just do not use it now. I am pursuing my goal of 100+ years of age so things are starting drop to off in the meantime!
My son is fluent and my D-i-L is a German national so rely on them.

It looks like that lake has a semi-permanent harbour which is very nice but not practical here.

My take on several visits to Germany was that engineers were more respected there, my son often being refered to as Herr Doctor and when he wanted to rent a house it put him at the head of the queue. (that was in 1993, Moved on since then).
In the UK it seems to be just money.
But the point I am making is that in Germany a skill is respected but here, as seen in a recent TV series all a bit of a joke.

I have never understood why football watching is so popular and fishing as well. I think fishing was the genesis of Fake News so has a lot to answer for!😁
Roy

Nice but 4 years ago, so much has changed since then.
Roy

Hi cashrc, well the boat in question almost had American made engines! I wonder how many of the ASR boats had engines from the USA?
I know in the UK they settled on using variants among the various types of Merlin engines. For instance some tanks had Merlins with only 6 carburettors.

Some may remember a Rolls Royce with a Merlin engine it overtook me once in west London and it sounded like someone was shaking a very big tin of nuts and bolts.

Met the guy by chance who owned it at a metalwork evening class. This was about 50 years ago and he said he was under constant pressure from RR to remove the signature radiator griil!
Lost touch after that.
Roy

Hi again, If you are just copying across straight bulkhead lines then the easy way is to lay the plan over the wood in the correct place and make a pin hole through all the corners and then join them up on the wood with a ruler.
Otherwise for round section hulls I draw on tracing paper an exact axis of 2 lines at 90 degrees. The crossing point to be at the water level which will be a straight fore and aft line. I draw just one half section.

Then I fold the tracing paper across along the vertical drawn line and matching the horizontal line and copy the already traced side to the other. You draw over the reversed tracing paper and the original lines will transfer across.
This gives you a symetrical complete section. I do not know whether there are more modern ways to do this but it has worked for me.
Roy

Hi agree it was the only one built. During the WW2 the 2 Packard engines destined for this boat went down with the transport ship in the Atlantic. When tested she was not fast enough and was then transferred to Scotland and used for training purposes.
The original plans for this boat had her with a typical rubber band drive as used in model aircraft and was drawn up for Drysdale Boat drawings, based in Leighton Buzzard.
Later incorporated into The Model Boat book published in 1950. IMHO it is still one of the best books of this type I have read.
The number 1228 is from the original plans for this boat. I started building this model many years ago and then found it should have had 2 engines and I set the basic uncovered hull aside, still in the garage.

The Model Maker magazine when it started took over these plans, which were excellent ones, my favourite is the River cruiser Dubarry. But there were 3 other high speed launch type boats as well as examples of many other models Jetex to sail. This model being MM102.
The plan in 1950 was for sale at 15/- (fifteen shillings later 75p) Todays equivalent value 72 years on is £30.00. So perhaps Sarik's plans are not a bad deal!
I have a second copy of the book if anyone is interested, just PM me It was 7/6d at the time I would like the 2022 equivalent!
regards
Roy

I cannot see why you need a port and a starboard sail winch unless they do something else as well?
Roy

Hi thanks for the post but I cannot read the writing! Can you PM me the text and I will see if I can get it so I can read it?
Roy

Hi Ron I use extension arms on servos as well. The fore sail system control I explained is separate from the mainsail and jib control. It is easy to implement.

I use winches and also the self contained winches that do not require an external loop and arm winches depends, what you have room for.

Roy

Hi, having looked at the finished model I would recommend a boom for the jib, it was common practice full size and makes sure the sail does not fold up on itself.
Another solution is to slide a very flexible length of piano wire through the seem of the lower part of the jib sail.
regards
Roy