Another Titanic
This is the old Minicraft 1:350 kit, with three channel r/c, now about 30 years old (but re-equiped in the machinery spaces recently), manoeuvring on her props in the Solent sometime in the summer of 1913.
Slo-mo (120fps) on an iPhone.

Kind comments Alessandro, thank you. I do have some video of the Hood under way, but rather poor quality unfortunately. Its all slo-mo at 120 fps on my iPhone, of course. Seems to be closest to "the real thing"? Here's probably the best, of the Hood heading out into the 10 to 15' Atlantic swell some time in 1940.

Ohh - I think I prefer your cases - serious builds, with the contents really worth the effort!
I think the acrylic sheet I can buy here is Optix brand. You asked about my case sizes; the largest is for the Caldercraft Sir Kay, at 102 x 47 x 26cm. For the St Canute its around 61 x 43 x 22cm

I've been reading this post with interest, describing the processes I've fiddled with myself over the years. I think I have the cases under control finally now though. I make mine from acrylic sheet (not Plexiglas) and a special acrylic glue that really works extraordinarily well (a well-glued joint is stronger than the sheet itself, I have discovered by accident). I have a case (for a Caldercraft Sir Kay) that I made exclusively from 4mm sheet because of its size, but this is significantly over-engineered (and heavy) so I now use the 4mm sheet for the case ends only, with 2mm sheet for the sides and top. The 4mm pieces make gluing easier and stronger, but the 2mm sheet top and sides keeps both weight and cost down, and is more than strong enough on the 4mm end pieces. I used to cut and sand (and sand, and sand, and sand) the sheets by handsaw, but that really didn't work. I now have a small portable table saw that, with a fine finish blade, makes the edges essentially perfectly (minimal sanding to deburr the cut only)
The glues have to be ordered on-line, not stocked at hardware stores because they are quite volatile and toxic, and take a bit of practice using, with very fast setting times making long joins with the gell not much fun, and the very runny liquid adhesive going to run everywhere unless used very carefully with the pieces clamped such that any runs drop off and not down a big clear sheet instead (although the runs do polish off if left alone until dry)
Here are some photos of the cases on the Billings St Canute and my as yet unfinished 1:350th Liberty ship (both r/c and fully seaworthy), and of the adhesive cements.

Lovely model. I presume this is the build described in the Model Boats magazine over the summer that I followed with great interest? Splitting the hull for access at the waterline is such a simple idea, if the hull shape allows for that 👍

This is the Trumpeter 1:350th Hood, made to match the Prince of Wales with three channel RC with fully independent control of the port and starboard props, as for the PoW. Sails (and maneuvers) beautifully.

The build was for a friend with happy memories of a cat boat holiday years ago, so her seafaring career started and stopped in the repurposed plexiglass display case lid in the yard, sadly. Cabin roof is fixed, but the companionway hatch opens, with the cabin decked inside. The skipper is a Tamiya 1:16 refugee wehrmacht machine gunner from the Eastern Front, with his coal scuttle helmet hidden under a tinfoil sou'wester. Frank is his adopted name.

Built as a static display model for someone else, I couldn't resist seeing if I had a well ballasted and waterproof little boat that might float the right way up anyway. Delighted to find the guestimated ballast and first bright finished plank on frame hull I've made did indeed work.

Just found this thread. I have been looking for a true twin ratcheted throttle set up for my 1:350 scale Prince of Wales and Hood models, and had given up a while ago. I was, however, intrigued by my Spectrum DX6e radio and the "mode" switch on the back, allowing either the right or left stick to be the smooth friction or ratcheted throttle stick and in a kill or cure mood one night I opened it up to see how this worked. I was delighted to discover that by removing the large horizontal bar that the selector switch moves from side to side, and then pulling the small rails this bar engaged to on each stick tightly towards each other centrally with a couple of wire ties, I now had the ratchet engaged on both sticks, giving me perfect control of the engines separately, as I have been seeking for many years. Very easy to do, other than the very short little wire to the aerial pulling off its plug when the back cover is removed (also easily pushed back on though)

You asked about video too. I've tried posting one, but I don't seem to be able to view the "media file", my own or anyone else's.

Hi Doug. Yes, the plastic screws with both the PoW and the Hood actually work rather well. The Hoods screws have very slightly off-centre holes for the shaft, but this seems to have no undesirable effects on how they work, with no vibration, and appears unnoticeable when stationary or at any working rpm.
And you are right - If it aint broke, dont fix it. I'm leaving the PoW batteries "as is (are?)".
Love to see your carriers afloat sometime!
Cheers from another Doug.

I wondered if it was something like that with the Energizer cells, but why the PoW is okay, but the Hood is not (identical speed controllers and motors) still puzzles me. I made the mistake of rather more permanently fixing the ballast in the PoW so changing batteries will be a chore !
The foredeck of the PoW is cemented in place. The aft deck is held down by a tab at the stern sliding under the last 2cm or so of the deck cemented in place, and the main segment has a flange forward under the foredeck and gravity only at its aft end. No sealants, just the impeccable Tamiya fit otherwise as waterproofing. (small rare earth magnets in the Hood). Not a drop inside in several years but it really is a millpond weather model (with the drag of a breeze affecting the model as the square root of the scale, so a 2kt wind affects the model as a 37 kt wind would have originally, or so I am told)
Tank steering! At anything more than slow ahead, the kits scale rudder actually becomes quite effective (in the prop wash, I guess), with the tank steering for docking manoeuvres only!
Colossus ? Scratch build ??

Thanks for the kind comments. Four motors with the two each side wired in parallel to a port/starboard Mtronics microviper ESC. I use 4 AA lithium cells in the PoW with no problem, but for reasons beyond my high school level physics I have to use a 7.2v NiMH pack in my otherwise identically motorised 1:350 Trumpeter Hood to avoid "problems". (not finished yet, but coming soon).

I have a Spectrum DX6E radio that I've "modified" so both sticks are on fore and aft ratched throttles. The electronically setable "throw" nicely limits the throttle ranges to scale-looking max speeds.

Old photo of the guts - now a Spectrum 2.4 GHz reciever.

Another "plastic fantastic". This is the Tamiya 1:350 PoW I made a couple of years ago. The props are driven by four MFA Como 990D motors with 4:1 gearing (making for really good low speed control). These are billed as 3 volt motors but take about 4 - 4.5v to run at a scale speed/wake (no heating problems. I have run them at 6v for prolonged periods too, also with no problems, I guess because their loading is so low?) Independent port and starboard speed controls (Mtronics) make for a lot of fun manoeuvring around "harbours".

My Billings St Canute. A lovely little boat, and fun to sail. The plastic propeller supplied originally was fine for steaming ahead, but useless astern. I fitted a fine pitch Prop Shop prop though, and this changed the whole experience. These are really beautiful little pieces of engineering, both functionally and aesthetically; true miniatures of the "real thing", and remarkably good value, considering the processes to make them.

This is my Caldercraft Sir Kay, but without the acoustic hammer, so finished as the Sir Geraint instead.

I come to this site as an escape from the anarchic mess that is now our world, and find this anti vacc nonsense here instead! Cheers, Mr Darwin. Delighted there is still some selection pressure on our species still.