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Last couple of days things have moved on nicely! I have done some more work on the forward cockpit adding window frames from plasticard, still a long way to go on that part of the build. Cockpit is still loose from the hull, will be glued on once all the extra detailing has been completed. Have started to paint the exterior hull and add some decals. After several coats of grey and red primers with flating inbetween, have left the bottom of the hull oxide red. The blue is "Ford Royal Blue" which is a recommended match for RNLI boats. Some waveneys appear in a light blue, but I am basing mine on 44-003 which was the darker blue. Red and white trimlines added, bumper strips painted black, lettering was from eBay (search custom vinyl lettering). Finally a light coat of laquer to protect. several coats of laquer will be added at the end.
so, having been at work all weekend, today saw a day off and a few hours to start building the foreward cockpit bridge thingy. There will be quite a bit of shape changing mods to this part as we build, simply because the Dumas kit is of the 44ft Coastguard cutter and the Waveney class Lifeboat has quite a few differences. Changes to make include the windows, the rear walls to be extended to take acount of extra windows at back of cab, forward sloping front piece, engine intakes on both sides, and changes to the roof. Still waiting on a reference book on "Waveneys" from ebay, should have been here by now! that will give me the change to start super detailing the exterior decs, cabins ect.
Hi Doug, The railings were included in the kit. It was supplied as about 2 meters of 2mm aluminium wire. I wou👍ld have used brass wire, however after 1st efforts with the aluminium wire, have found it easy to work with as its soft enough to conform curves with ease.
today has seen the rear deck and cabin constructed. I lined the deck piece with some mahogany strip for a neater finish on the edge of the crapy liteply. Construction of the cabin was straight forward, this was followed by shaping, sanding, filling any gaps and a couple of coats of sanding sealer ready for paint. I have also added the railings and stanchions to the roof of the cabin as a start to the detailing to come. I have ordered a book from Amazon which is a reference book of the Waveney Class lifeboats, so hopefully there will be ample photos for the detailing I hope to add as we go on!
First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. Its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.
Hi Doug, Looking at my rudders comparing them to some pics I’ve found online, my rudders are too big and therefore I will reduce them in size, no biggie, 10 minutes work should see that done. Back to the struts. I would have made them from brass, however as my propshafts are in brass tubes for the whole length, I feel that the plastic versions I’ve made should be ok for aesthetics as the brass tubes seem rigid enough, hopefully no chance of any whip? I’m planning on running this on 2S lipo to give a scale speed, all depends what the watt meters says when I test the motors with props in water. Having the option to go to 3S if needed. I don’t plan on having a great deal of rudder throw and will programme in some expo to soften the rudders throw. Of course, if needed, I am more than happy to make adjustments and incorporate recommendations as given by the lovely people on this forum. It’s still a learning curve for me as I bring 45 years of aircraft experience over to the boat world! If anyone requires any aircraft advice, I’m your man!
Today has seen the prop shafts and motors installed, all nice and straight and bind free. Once all That was epoxied in and set, I made a pair of prop shaft struts from plasticard and tubing, not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance. I also fashioned some approx scale sized rudders using standard off the shelf rudders, removing the blades and making new blades with 0.8mm brass sheet, pinned and soldered and painted in oxide red primer. Last job of the day was to start building the cockpit floor and to give the hull another coat of resin.
So, managed to get all the glass clothing done at work at the weekend! So far, 1 coat of resin followed by 2 thinned coats to come. Today has seen all the fenders/rubbing strakes added. It took some careful measuring to get positioned correctly but well pleased with the outcome. It paid to pre-shape them prior to fitting. I’ve added filler where needed and a couple of coats of sealer, all seems to be faired in nicely. May need some touch up after priming. Also fitted the rudder mounts as today’s final job. Tomorrow should see the prop shafts fitted, motors mounted and will make the shaft struts. Postie arrived with some RNLI resin crew figures that will add a great touch when painted.
Spent most of the morning sanding, flating, sanding sealer, small amounts of filler where needle before a final coat of sealer and last sand. Left with a super smooth external hull! I’m hoping to cloth the hull in no more than 3 pieces starting with the transom as seen in the picture. Might be a bit slow next few days as back in day shift from tomorrow, might be able to sneak it into work Saturday?
More progress today! First thing was to make a stand from 6mm ply and 18mm dowel using the hull templates as described in the instruction sheet. Was a good excuse to get my scroll saw going! The rear stand will have some more cut-outs to clear the prop shafts, will do that when I’ve installed them. This was followed by a very messy and dusty couple of hours sanding and flaring the hull external sheeting followed by a good dose of cheap wood filler ( £1.99 from a pound shop in stowmarket, works well, sands nice!) in any gaps, cracks and imperfections. Will leave to dry overnight before sanding back and refilling where required before a couple of coats of sanding sealer, sanding back then on with glass clothing.
Been a slow few days with work and chores around the house, but managed to get in the workshop today. Fore, centre and aft decks in, nose block rough shaped and glued, gunwales fitted. I’ve faced the rear and fore deck thingys with1:32 ply for a neater finish and replaced the kit gunwale thingys with a sandwich of 1:32 ply and 1:32 balsa. Tomorrow I have a “me” day as wife at work and I’m off work, so it will be a good chance to sand hull, filler were needed, sanding sealer, more sanding ready to start glass clothing Tuesday all being well.
Hi Gerry, I’m possibly not the right person to ask, especially if you’re considering 3 motors? My best advice is to make your own post asking other more experienced boat builders to advise. I’m fairly new to boats moving over from aircraft.
So, after a weekend away with “she who must be obeyed” have managed to do some more over the last couple of days before nights tonight. Planking is now completed, just needs external shaping, sanding and filler before glass clothing. Have cut holes and added all the fixing points for the prop shafts and made the motor mount. All square and inline. Prop shafts won’t be fitted properly until I’ve clothed the outside. Stuffing boxes will be epoxy and isopon P38 fixed inside the little boxes I’ve made where they exit the hull for added strength. Last job today was to give the inside of the hull a good dose of resin to seal it all up.
Finished nights this morning, had a couple of hours kip then thrashed some more planking! Stern end finished, main hull finished, just the bow uppers to put in. Once completed, will get some pva squeegee’d into the inside joints between planks and formers then will give the inside a couple of coats of resin. Once that’s done, rough sand the hull and fill the remaining gaps and blemishes with wood filler before final sanding and touch filling prior to glass clothing. Before I glass cloth, shall install prop shafts, motor mounts, motors, install decks then onwards with clothing.
Have added a few more planks over the last couple of days before and after bed as on nights. Gaps should be closed by Friday? Have also marked exit points for prop shafts and marked and drilled rudder mounting holes.
Over the past couple of days, planking is moving on. Working on 2 planks per side per day allowing overnight setting time before moving on to next row. Starting nights tonight, so will try an add a couple of planks each day before bed!
So, this morning saw the remaining formers glued and weighted whilst setting. Have finished the day with laying down the first 2 planks up against the keel. Once I’ve got the 2 planks glued in against the other side of the keel will then add 1 or 2 planks each side at the same time and allow to set before moving on, all the time weighted down with my trusty vice in the hope of a straight hull at the end! All straights so far!