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    Skydive130
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    Member No.#4453
    RegisteredπŸ“…9th Sep 2017
    Last OnlineπŸ“…4th Mar 2021
    CityπŸ“Middlefield Dr
    CountryπŸ‡¬πŸ‡§United Kingdom
    Gender♂️Male
    AgeπŸ‘ΆNot Provided
    PostsπŸ’¬903
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    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ robbob ( Vice Admiral)
    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ Rookysailor ( Commodore)
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    πŸ‡¬πŸ‡§ MouldBuilder ( Commodore)
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    Members Harbour
    Lesro RNLI Atlantic 21 RIB
    This is my β€œLesro” Atlantic 21 RNLI RIB. This was 95% scratch built after buying the sponsons and hull of eBay and then completely remaking all the details. I have made a detailed blog of the complete build on the forum. Point to not at this point is the figure is not quite complete as more detailing painting still to be done. I’ll add an update once finished....
    LESRO Pilot Boat conversion
    Just test sailed today before it goes to its new owner as this was a commission build. This is the ebay bought kit from LESRO but couldnt stand the basic shape of it, so converted it to the Pilot Boats as used in Southampton port. Runs nicly on 2S, but if I was keeping I would put a 3S LIPO in it.
    The "Orca" from Jaws 1975 scale 1:14
    Here is my newly finished "Orca" scratch built from the plans by Pat Tritle. she is 1:14 scale and about 35 inches length. First run out today and she went perfectly. The only thing I needed to do was add a little ballast in the stern as she was sitting slightly nose down at top speed, thats now been rectified. I will add more photos and perhaps a video next time out. But I am very pleased with how she's turned out, a definate keeper!
    Model Slipway RNLI Trent Class Lifeboat β€œSamarbeta”
    Here is my newly finished Trent Class lifeboat. Hopefully will get her on the water this week, although she has had a ballast check in the hot tub (when wife was at work!). This was a part started eBay bargain, but I took it back to scratch and completely rebuilt it from fresh. Full working lights, radar and twin diesel sound system. Very pleased with the result.
    Aeronaut Jenny
    Test outing today of newly completed aeronaut Jenny. Next outing will have a driver installed, but his shirt is on the sewing machine! Goes like stink on a Turnigy SK3 brushless motor, 50amp ESC, 3S 3000mah lipo and a kg of lead! Might drop it down to a 2s next time out and will get some running photos when I have assistance.
    (Racing Boat) Aeronaut Spitfire
    This is my aeronaut Spitfire. This was my second build following a lifetime of RC Aircraft. The kit was a joy to build with really nice quality wood and components with good instructions. Sourcing the outboard was a challange but Hobbyking had the solution. running on 2 x 7.4v Lipo and Turnigy water colled ESC this should go very well. Not had a chance to run it yet, but the bath test has shown no leaks and sits well in the water. Actionman and his clothing, helmet ect where sourced from eBay for about Β£12, bargin! (Motor: Hobbyking outboard) (ESC: Turnigy) (8/10)
    Recent Posts
    πŸ’¬ Re: The Roof Vents
    5 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Well they’ve come out rather well Rob, hats off to you my freind πŸ‘πŸ˜‚πŸ‘πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Painting and detailing the wheelhouse...
    8 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Rob, I use Vallejo or Tamiya airbrush acrylics through my airbrush. The orange is slightly darker than the Halfords vw orange, but once the spray overcoats go on you cannot see the airbrushed orange.

    I reckon putting rattle can paint through the airbrush would end in disaster!

    Sy
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Painting and detailing the wheelhouse...
    8 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Many thanks Peter, although it will slow down a little as I’ve got to work 5 out of the next 8 days πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ€¬πŸ€¬πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Water line
    8 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Mike, shall try your method of applying the white trim line this weekend, here’s hoping! πŸ˜‚πŸ‘Œ
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    πŸ“ Painting and detailing the wheelhouse...
    9 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    3 days of work has seen the wheelhouse primed, based painted with the airbrush followed by 2 coats of Halfords VW orange for the final paint finish prior to lacquer inch. The reason why I hit the cabin with the airbrush was to get a thin layer of orange paint into the many nooks and crannies before the main coats. This way you get a good finish without trying to get rattle can paint into the creases and folds ect causing detail loss with the thicker paint. Happily it’s come out well.

    I’ve added most of the decals and at this point hit the wheelhouse with gloss lacquer before starting to add the many details that I’ve already made or still need to make, believe me there is a heap more detailing parts to come, especially on the flying bridge ect!

    There is probably another week to ten days work on the wheelhouse to come......
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Painting
    10 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Me too Rob, chine trimline keep me awake at night, I have that issue later this week on my Shannon🀬🀬
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    πŸ‘€ 70 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Getting some paint on ....
    11 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Pete, the door was a one piece moulding in resin (hence the quality detailing), the window glass was of course separate glued in after painting with clear canopy glue, the window frames self adhesive vinyl that came with the kit. All the details were hand painted with tamiya acrylic after spraying with VW orange and then lacquered πŸ‘

    Let’s hope the rest of it turns out like the door lol.

    P.s, the Stormtrooper is a little dusty ha ha
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    πŸ‘€ 38 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Getting some paint on ....
    11 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    True mike, so true πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ‘€ 39 Views
    πŸ’¬ Re: Getting some paint on ....
    11 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    You know me Rob, I suffer from impatience, hence why I finished the door less it’s handle, just had to have something orange finished πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ there’s probably still another 175+ resin parts to prep and paint, so we’ve a way to go!
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Getting some paint on ....
    11 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Cheers Rick, may the force be with you πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ“ Getting some paint on ....
    12 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Last couple of days has been a dusty affair! It’s been mostly sanding, filing we’re required and generally getting the large pieces I.e the hull and wheelhouse ready to prime and start painting.

    Firstly, the hull was primed grey with 2 coats, followed by 3 light build coats of Ford Galaxy Blue for the upper sides of the hull. Having left that for 24 hours, using my cheap eBay laser level mounted to my camera tripod, the waterline was established both sides before masking for the black lower hull. This was duly added with a coat of Matt black, followed by 2 coats of satin black. This will be left for a further 24 hours before I spray paint the silver keel. The whole hull will then get a coat of lacquer before I add the waterline and other decals. Once all the decals and other ancills have been added less the drive nozzles and trim tabs, the hull will get a couple of coats of gloss lacquer above the water line and a Matt coat below.

    Other jobs was to identify what stanchions go we’re on the deck using the pre-marked guides, drilling holes for the feet. The stanchions were then cleaned, prepared, primed and painted and finished with a light wash around the bolt heads before finishing in Matt lacquer.

    Another major dusty task was to identify and prepare the 10 pieces of cast resin that make up the fendering around the lip of the deck. These will be painted off the boat before adding later in the build.

    Last job was to finish cleaning and preparing the wheelhouse, which has now been given 2 coats of white primer in preparation for the VW brilliant orange. Tomorrow I shall give all the nooks and crannies a blast with orange acrylic with the airbrush. I’ve found in the past that if you go straight in with the Halfords rattle can, you don’t always get the thicker paint into the tighter spaces unless you go really thick. A few light passes with airbrushed orange will then see the rattle can paint go on a lot nice, I hope!....

    Oh, and I painted the wheelhouse door! πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ‘€ 43 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 2
    12 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Awesome mike! πŸ‘
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    πŸ‘€ 71 Views
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    πŸ“ Revering a servo’s travel with soldering
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    I was asked the other day if I would do a β€œhow too” on how to reverse the travel of a servo. This probably doesn’t have a lot of need in model boats, as it’s not often more than 1 servo (generally the rudder) are employed. However, I am currently building a Shannon class lifeboat with 6 servos and 2 of them required to travel in the same direction for operating the reverse thruster buckets and twin trim tabs.

    1. Take the base of the servo off by removing the 4 screws.
    2. The 2 wires (orange) on the base of the servo motor need to be de-soldered and re-soldered on the opposite side. I marked one wire with a black marker for ease of identity.
    3.carefully remove the hot glue off the 3 wires soldered to the potentiometer. There are 3 wires, red orange and white on this corona servo, simply de-solder and reverse the red and white wires, the orange centre wire is left alone.
    4. Carefully put a small blob of hot glue or epoxy over the wires to prevent a short circuit happening.
    5. Reassemble servo and voila, should now be operating in reverse! Saves buying a servo reverser! Any questions, please ask πŸ‘
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    πŸ‘€ 3 Views
    πŸ“ Revering a servo’s travel with soldering
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    I was asked the other day if I would do a β€œhow too” on how to reverse the travel of a servo. This probably doesn’t have a lot of need in model boats, as it’s not often more than 1 servo (generally the rudder) are employed. However, I am currently building a Shannon class lifeboat with 6 servos and 2 of them required to travel in the same direction for operating the reverse thruster buckets and twin trim tabs.

    1. Take the base of the servo off by removing the 4 screws.
    2. The 2 wires (orange) on the base of the servo motor need to be de-soldered and re-soldered on the opposite side. I marked one wire with a black marker for ease of identity.
    3.carefully remove the hot glue off the 3 wires soldered to the potentiometer. There are 3 wires, red orange and white on this corona servo, simply de-solder and reverse the red and white wires, the orange centre wire is left alone.
    4. Carefully put a small blob of hot glue or epoxy over the wires to prevent a short circuit happening.
    5. Reassemble servo and voila, should now be operating in reverse! Saves buying a servo reverser!
    πŸ‘ Like
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    πŸ‘€ 3 Views
    πŸ“ Preparing hull for paint & finish cutting window openings..
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Back at it today after a few days at work....

    First job today was using mikes tip, I used a very small washer and pencil to mark the inner perimeter on the remaining window openings in preparation for drilling, filing and sanding. Mike, that tip worked a treat, thank you! A good couple of hours of work saw the remaining window openings all done and having checked with the pre cut green tinted windows that came with the kit, they are a perfect fit!

    Next job was to reverse the servos internal wiring on one of the reverse thruster buckets so that on operation they will both lower and raise in unison. Martin suggested I do a separate β€œhow to” on the technique and I have done that for those who are interested in the β€œhow to articles” section. I could have hooked the servo up to a spare channel on the receiver and mixed it in the transmitters mixing area (flaperons would have worked), but I preferred the option of soldering simply because it’s easier! If you look on the electrics board, you will see I’ve added a Turnigy servo speed reducer so that when the reverse buckets are operated, they do so slowly instead of at the speed of a startled gazelle and un-scale like. These speed reducers are often used by aircraft flyers for flaps.

    Next I proceeded to insert 2 aluminium flat bars across the hull fore and aft. My thinking is that I am going to use these to secure the deck to the hull by having 3mm bolts in the 2 towing bollards that will tighten onto a glued nut under each bar. This will make it easy to remove the deck for maintainable as the wheel house will be bonded to the deck, meaning no access via the wheelhouse. I have some self adhesive 1.5mm sealing rubber used for double glazing that I’m going to put around the perimeter lip of the hull hopefully giving me a water tight seal when the deck is bolted on, TBC πŸ˜‚

    Last job today was to spend some time doing a final sand with wet n dry on the hull, clean it with panel prep to ensure it was dust free and give it 2 coats of grey primer. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll start getting some colour on the hull!
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    πŸ‘€ 61 Views
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    πŸ“ Revering a servo’s travel with soldering
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    I was asked the other day if I would do a β€œhow too” on how to reverse the travel of a servo. This probably doesn’t have a lot of need in model boats, as it’s not often more than 1 servo (generally the rudder) are employed. However, I am currently building a Shannon class lifeboat with 6 servos and 2 of them required to travel in the same direction for operating the reverse thruster buckets and twin trim tabs.

    1. Take the base of the servo off by removing the 4 screws.
    2. The 2 wires (orange) on the base of the servo motor need to be de-soldered and re-soldered on the opposite side. I marked one wire with a black marker for ease of identity.
    3.carefully remove the hot glue off the 3 wires soldered to the potentiometer. There are 3 wires, red orange and white on this corona servo, simply de-solder and reverse the red and shite wires, the orange centre wire is left alone.
    4. Carefully put a small blob of hot glue or epoxy over the wires to prevent a short circuit happening.
    5. Reassemble servo and voila, should now be operating in reverse! Saves by a servo reverser!
    πŸ‘ Like
    πŸ’¬ Comment
    πŸ‘€ 3 Views
    πŸ“ Revering a servo’s travel with soldering
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
    Flag
    I was asked the other day if I would do a β€œhow too” on how to reverse the travel of a servo. This probably doesn’t have a lot of need in model boats, as it’s not often more than 1 servo (generally the rudder) are employed. However, I am currently building a Shannon class lifeboat with 6 servos and 2 of them required to travel in the same direction for operating the reverse thruster buckets and twin trim tabs.

    1. Take the base of the servo off by removing the 4 screws.
    2. The 2 wires (orange) on the base of the servo motor need to be de-soldered and re-soldered on the opposite side. I marked one wire with a black marker for ease of identity.
    3.carefully remove the hot glue off the 3 wires soldered to the potentiometer. There are 3 wires, red orange and white on this corona servo, simply de-solder and reverse the red and shite wires, the orange centre wire is left alone.
    4. Carefully put a small blob of hot glue or epoxy over the wires to prevent a short circuit happening.
    5. Reassemble servo and voila, should now be operating in reverse!
    πŸ‘ Like
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    πŸ‘€ 3 Views
    πŸ“ Revering a servo’s travel with soldering
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    I was asked
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    πŸ’¬ Re: The Roof Handrail, Mast & Rigging.
    14 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Rob, how much longer can you milk this build, get it revealed already or I’ll finish my Shannon before you on purpose! πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ‘€ 55 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Continuing the wheel house details...
    16 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hi JB, could be an option on my Dx8 tx, I’ll have a look at the manual, I do have a spare channel on the rx πŸ‘Œ
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    πŸ‘€ 69 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Continuing the wheel house details...
    16 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Awesome tip mike, even better, I’ll try that Thursday on the other 7 windows πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
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    πŸ‘€ 69 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Continuing the wheel house details...
    17 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Martin, more than happy to do a β€œhow to” on the servo reversing, it’s very easy, I learnt off YouTube lol. However, I shall explain in pictures and text Thursday or Friday πŸ‘
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    πŸ‘€ 76 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Continuing the wheel house details...
    18 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Their excellent Rob, really stick well and cheap as chips!
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    πŸ‘€ 76 Views
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    πŸ“ Continuing the wheel house details...
    18 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Several hours has of work (why do we call it work, it’s all pleasure in my brain!) has seen not a lot done....

    A couple of hours spent finishing off all the brass wheelhouse railings which have all now been filed, sanded, primed and awaiting their final coats of paint and lacquer.

    I then made a start on cutting the windows out ready to receive their glass once painting has finished. I wanted an even 1mm lip inside the frame as a good purchase point for the window. This lip will be covered once the glass is in as the glass has a black vinyl adhesive frame around the perimeter of the glass. I came up with the idea of attaching a piece of lead pencil to a 0.75mm piece of plastic rod and scribed the inside of the window pain to give a good line to drill, cut and file back too, worked a treat. 2 windows cut, 7 more to go!

    Last job of the day was to tidy up all the internal wiring using some nice eBay self adhesive cable tidies, I think they were about Β£4 for 50 inc postage! Once I’d done that I hooked up all the servos to the transmitter making sure that a switch was assigned for the reverse thruster buckets and a pot switch for the trim tabs, steering nozzles hooked up to aileron stick. I shall need to reverse the polarity on one of the nozzle servos which I will do by re-soldering the internals instead of buying a reversing switch, easy enough to do.

    That’s it now until Thursday, have a great week and stay safe ......
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Adding the wheelhouse details....
    18 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hi Rob, your almost right, it’s my father in law who is the volunteer and he can still be seen (when lock down ceases and allows the reopening) down at the lifeboat museum in Southwold Suffolk on a Sunday.

    My late father sadly had no sea legs, in fact he couldn’t swim a stroke bless him, hence he joined the RAF, although he did share the same passion for the RNLI. My sister and I raised over Β£500 at his funeral from donations which we shared equally between the RNLI and RAFA πŸ‘
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Adding the wheelhouse details....
    18 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    And I look at how neat your work is Mike and I thought you’d be more organised than me! πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚
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    πŸ‘€ 77 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Adding the wheelhouse details....
    18 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    Hence the reason why I’m a subscribed member of the RNLI Rob, they are my hero’s πŸ‘
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    πŸ“ Adding the wheelhouse details....
    19 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    First day back at it after a few shifts at work, gotta earn those pennies to fund this hobby!

    Today has been productive in that I’ve managed to cut out all the holes ready to install the various side bins the are on the wheelhouse. These include a port and starboard fuel filler box, fire fighting housing, fore life-raft housing and the radiator intake vent hole aft on the starboard side. Once all the holes had been cut using the dremel, they were tidied up with various files and then each resin part was tack glued with CA before adding epoxy on the inside. Once set, any gaps was addressed with P38 filler and sanded back once set.

    I’ve also spent some time measuring all the fixing points for the various grab rails that are fitted to the wheelhouse. A few weeks ago, I emailed the RNLI asking if they had had a set of plans for the Shannon, within minutes I was sent a full set of PDF files showing all the views of the boat, top, sides, 3D view and they show every detail of every part fitted, simply superb. I was able to get the required scale up increase from a member on a Facebook Shannon model group and he put me in touch with a printer in Yorkshire who could print all 3 sheets for Β£15 posted, they arrived within 48 hours and will be invaluable during this build. A huge thanks to the RNLl, Dan on FB and the printers!

    The various rails are made from brass wire and the fitting and soldering of the legs was done in situ on the boat for accuracy. Once all the brass had been cleaned up, I added the photo etched mounting circles with thick CA. the roof rails have been primed, but I have still to complete the side grab rails and the front rails.

    Also added was the large photo etched roof detail sheet which was a superb fit along with a couple of resin parts on the side which are painted orange when the wheel house gets painted. There is an abundance of detail parts still to add but these will be prepared and painted off the wheel house and added once the main wheelhouse painting has been done.

    I’ve got a nice large compartment box to put completed detail parts in so that I can add them at a later date πŸ‘Œ
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    πŸ‘€ 78 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Installing the Lighting.
    19 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    You and Mike seem to excel at those intricate wiring looms, I take my hat off to the pair of you, stunning !

    Can I please pose a question Rob as you seem to know your electrics. On my Shannon lifeboat, I plan to use a tiny motor from a 5G servo to power my radar, simply because I can conceal it in the Furuno radar box below the radar. However, when I tested it on 4.8v, it’s rotation was supersonic, so I would need to power it down to 1-1.5v. Is there such a thing as a tiny voltage reducer I can use inline coming from the 6v battery that I’m going to power the lights from using a action electonics light switch unit. Thank you in advance for any thoughts πŸ‘
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    πŸ‘€ 88 Views
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    πŸ’¬ Re: Electrical layout in cabin Pt 1
    19 days ago by Skydive130 ( Commodore)
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    This is where you lose me Mike, my knowledge of electrics is nil! I have to stick to simple ready made looms ect as I’m clueless on lighting circuits ect, maybe it’s something I need to learn!
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