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Hull formers in and setting. Duct finished and primed ready to recieve VW brilliant orange from a Halfords rattle can. Im scrapping the Depron cabin and making the sides from 1mm ply/2mm balsa lamination for extra strength. Not worried about the extra weight as on Palaforms site you can get a liteply cabin conversion. Infact, Im not too worried about the extra weight that will be added in the build as the manual does state that it maybe required to add extra weight in the form of a battery or similar for on water use in a breeze to prevent the craft flipping over. I shall be saving weight with my motor, esc, lipo combo anyway.
So, as per manual, built the tunnel duct former from 6mm ply. This is where i deviated slightly from the manual by making the duct from 3 laminations of 1/32 balsa instead of the depron centre and balsa outside. I used some solarfilm backing to keep the drying balsa off the former to prevent the very wet wood bonding to it, this I found out with my first attempt that stuck firm to the former and was destroyed attemting to remove! Its turned out great and after careful measuring, the rudder support was fitted (3mm Liteply substituted for the depron) and the whole thing sanded, sealed and primed ready to take VW Brilliant orange tomorrow. I made the rudders from 3mm balsa and glass clothed 1 side. ive fitted brass tubes instead of the supplied plastic tube. Last coupl of pics show the hull base with some balsa sheet added to give some extra rigidity without adding to much weight.
So, have given the Vosper RTTL a break as have this Palaform Griffin 600 Hovercraft itching to be built! Having read a few build blogs on other sites, have decided to beef it up in places as we build as 3mm Depron isnt the strongest medium out there. I was going to copy all the parts to balsa and build it entirley from Balsa, but figured that would just increase the weight too much? I shall finish the model in a psudo RNLI colour scheme!
Does anyone have a copy of the October and November 1986 Model Boats Magazine that contained the build article on the Tyne Class lifeboat. I have purchased the plans and Hull from Sarik and have found a wonderful build article on this model. Thinking that this will test my scratch building skills, I would love to add this class Lifeboat to go along side my Solent. Photocopies of the build articles would be perfect, happy to meet all costs if reasonable. Thank you in advance.
Hi robbob, thank you for your compliments! I can be a faster builder, especially on straight forward stuff, this particular model not being a major challenge so far! The upper deck detailing will take longer though! The other perk is working 4 days on, 4 days off, meaning if my wife is at work I’ve plenty of “me” time ha ha! Kind regards simon
This day has seen the midnight blue airbrushed on followed by a thin coat of lacquer to give the roundel and trimline a good surface to stick too. Numbers to go on when they arrive from eBay. Having given the inside of the hull 2 coats of resin to waterproof it, I’ve now installed all The electronics, just the rudder pushrod to make and add. Next few days will see little progress as starting nights tonight!
Planking done, deck stained, some deck detail added (most detailing will follow painting and varnishing). Hull has had a good sanding with wet n dry and has had the grey primer added. Have also given the bottom of the hull a coat of red oxide primer. Following this and any blemish removal, I will get the airbrush fired up for Tamiya hull red for the bottom and then humbrol midnight blue for the upper hull sides. This will be separated with a strip of white trimline before adding rounders and lettering prior to laquer.
Finished “Costa” planking today and have put in most of the edge strip (need more strip, model shop Friday!). Jobs to do before I start the superstructure, finish laying out the RC components, fit rudder parts, make battery tray etc. Put in a 1/4 square strip around deck opening to prevent water ingress. Couple of coats of resin inside radio bay, 1 more outside, sand and prime. Sand, stain and yacht varnish deck. One question on a water pick-up as using a water cooled ESC! Outlet will be in the transom, does it matter where the pick-up is located?
I buy lots of plans for aircraft and boats from either eBay or Sarik etc. Most of the plans I’ve bought from eBay have been photocopies and folded on arrival. I iron my plans carefully and also store rolled in a tube. One thing to note, a photocopy especially on larger sheets of paper can be a fraction bigger than the original it’s been copied from! I tend to use plans as a reference and transfer straight lines to large paper especially if building on the plans direct, this is possibly essential when building wings and fuselages over the plans and I have also done it with boats, as recent as the veron Vosper RTTL I’m currently building from eBay plans (copies!)
A big shout out to the generous staff in my local NAAFI/Costa shop who where able to supply me with what seemed like a lifetimes supply of coffee stirrers! Let planking commence! I did see on another build forum that possibly the Vosper had planks running the lenght of the deck, however ive decided to go 16cm lengths of Costa stirers instead of cutting full length planks from another wood source. This model is nowhere near acurate in scale, therfore I am happy to do staggered planks.
Slow weekend due to family commitments unfortunately! Managed to get the deck pieces fitted and that’s it! I’ve bought the model number not work today, so will apply another couple of coats of resin to the hull today and tomorrow’s lunch hour!
First piece of decking added at the bow. I’ve used a lamination of 1.5mm mahogany and 1.5mm obechi, this will be stained and varnished at the end. I’ve also added the mid chine rubbing strake from 1/32 x 2/16 ply, blended, filled and primed and sanded with sanding sealer. Hull exterior finished apart from 2 thin coats of resin. Next job is the fit remaining deck pieces which are currently glued and laminating under some heavy books!
So, have mounted the motor having set it all up nice and straight, result is nice smooth prop shaft no binding. Have finished the obechi deck surround and finished the day glass clothing the other side of the hull. Next job is a couple of coats of thinned resin to finish the hull then it’s on with the deck pieces.
So, slow week due to work! However, sheeting is now finished, sanded and a tiny bit of filler where needed. Keel has been fitted, prop shaft is in. Have now glass clothed the transom and one side of the hull. Very pleased how well the hull side clothing went, managed to do it in one piece so no seem to sand out. Other side tomorrow.
I quite agree Dave, the MFA 850 motors at 4/5ths chat push her along at a very pleasing and hopefully realistic speed. Ive enjoyed this build and had alot of pleasure posting myn progress, hopefully its been enjoyed by all and if its given anyone else some inspiration, even better. Please feel free to watch my Vosper RTTL build elsewhere! kind regards simon
Many thanks for your kind comments Mark, I am just pleased that moving sideways from Aircraft (will still continue to build and fly aircraft!) has been worthwhie. Many more projects to follow including the Veron RTTL on the building board as we speak and the Palaform Griffon 600 hovercraft next!
so here is the long awaited video of my scratch built Solent Class lifeboat based on the vintage Aerokits plans purchased on ebay. Sailed today for the 1st time and went like a dream, so pleased with it.
So, today was the day, she sailed wonderfully on a cold crisp Needham Lake nr Stowmarket Suffolk. The water level is very low at the moment, but got away with it! The only thing I need to do is try and get a bit more rudder throw as the turning circle is quite big, however with careful throttle use she really does look the part. So, yes, I am very pleased with how this model has turned out, on the most part a joy to build. Thank you to everyone who has taken time to comment on this build. Trying to download the video thats been edited. I might have to post a link to it so it can be seen in full.
This morning has seen an hour or so adding some more hull sheeting, tidying up the hole for the prop shaft and making the keel. Next decision is whether to add the keel prior to glass clothing the hull or after? My thinking is add before clothing, also fitting the prop shaft, done balsa infil between the 2 keep parts then glass cloth the whole hull for a good neat strong finish. Will add some more sheeting later once this lot has set and has been trimmed to accept next pieces.
Finished the chine rails this morning and have started to add the 1/32 ply sheeting. Lovely working with such thin ply, it conforms easily! May have got s little further but had to go and get a new car tyre, money I’d rather spend on model stuff lol