Final assembly, read this all through before starting.
All the modules were designed to fit into the hull through the existing removable hatches and the hole cut in the cockpit
deck. This is how I did it to achieve a reasonable balance fore and aft using my existing motor
s and battery pack
The esc fits neatly between the servo
and motor mount
ing plate and the wiring
was connected up before fitting the motor
s into the boat. The receiver
fits in the front half of the boat but the position of the battery pack
is a problem, see the end of the assembly. This was the best position to balance the boat but on final assembly I got obsessed with sticking a stick battery
under the old battery
hatch roof. Big mistake as this moved the CoG back and the transom waterline
was just under the deck.
I found it easier to plug the esc and servo
wires into the receiver
before fitting the motor
s into the boat. So, fit the battery
and then feed the receiver
/esc assembly through the old battery
hatch and fiddle it forward into position and feed the receiver
around or next to the battery
. Fit the motor
s mounting plate over the mounting lugs and make sure it is firmly mounted. The rudder servo
can now be placed in position over its mounting lug and between the two prop shaft
humps. Fit the prop shaft
s and connect the UJs to them.
Now comes the fiddly part. Hone the bearing
surface of each rudder
shaft with some fine wet and dry
and fit a rudder
into the boat and make sure you can see the tiller hole. Now, remember those molding lugs under the cockpit
? On the test boat they came off with the access hole but on my boat they were slightly different and had to be cut off. A fiddle but it has to be done. Using a small amount of superglue on the end of the tiller fit it into the hole making sure that no glue gets onto the rudder
tube and glues everything together. if you do need to get everything apart later it's quite easy to break the glue join by twisting the tiller. Repeat for the other rudder
. Then, using a piece of wire, put a drop or two of light oil down the rudder
tube from the bottom. This will seep into the gap between the tube and shaft and the honing will retain the oil like the honing of the bore in an engine
and form a flexible seal.
If you didn't get reduced to swearing at that you probably will at this. Fit the push rod onto the RAL so that you can feed it forward towards the servo
as you fit the control assembly onto the two tillers and the RAL pivot. Now fit the other part of the pushrod onto the servo
arm and connect the two parts
of the connector
. Sounds easy but make sure you have some valium handy. Dentists and gynecologists should find this easy. Tweezers and fine pliers are essential.
All you need to do now is fire it all up for a final check that everything works, and why shouldn't it, you've been so careful. Now is also the time to adjust the rudder
linkage to make sure the rudder
s are straight when the radio
stick is in the middle, but you knew that anyway. And whilst you're asking, the RAL should stay on the pivot, but to make sure it does I put some packing under the cockpit
floor so that this rests on top of the pivot when its all put together. (Photo 8)
When you have finished it should all look something like Photos 9 & 9A.
Now seal the gubbins under the cockpit
away under a watertight lid. The cockpit
will get water in it and it will find a way into the boat and it won't take much to consign all your hard work to Davey Jones. it took me two goes, eventually using silicone and the best named product around - Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure, available on the interweb.